I have lost count of how many videos that you have done Max but I am as keen to watch them as I was when I watched the first ones. Lathe maintenance and mods from memory.
“What just dawned on me…” I love it, ‘cause it is very assuring that even experienced machinists have those moments “in the work”. I thought it was just my inexperienced me.
Geez Max, the Australians are hitting it out of the park today. This week I was thinking about how I need a large boring bar that I can bolt directly to my tool post and also how much I would like a rotating chuck for my tailstock. Imagine my surprise this morning when I found out Kurtis was making a large boring bar and you were making a rotating chuck for your tailstock. I'm looking forward to the next installment. Thanks, Ken
Lol . It was a toss up between the lathe chuck or a boring bar , bloody Curtis beat me to the boring bar ! I have to make a big one for my other lathe . Cheers .
Max you have the mind of a magician mate excellent work I’ve been debating on making one for my lathe for ages and now you have given me the confidence to give it a go thanks a lot for sharing you skills and craftsmanship I have mental health problems and your channel has got me back into machining along with Kurtis lol have a blessed day all the best god bless
I do not ever recal seeing such a tool in use so I'm going to be eagerly awaiting the next instalment.Whena taper test fit hids home like that you justknow it's a propper fit. First part I made on my lathe was a live centre, Head and tail stock being machcing tapers I used the tailstock to set the compoundand test fit the work, it did not want to let the job go! I scribed a heavy line on the saddle to set up quikly for the next time. Thanks for the vid Max
Hi Max, spot on with the taper, you need to get a decent coolant hose, hate those segmental plastic hoses. Found a nice steel braided coolant hose in Indonesia, stays put where you aim it.
Yes , it's really starting to piss me off ! Hare & Forbs have the steel ones , i am going to check them out . I am hoping they will be at least half as good as the old British ones .
Wonderful idea Max and tool as handy as a pocket in a shirt. I built one for working on tubular parts, i.e. hydraulic cylinders some years back. Yours is way fancier than mine with seals and a retainer bolt even! Mine was just a press fit. Cheers
Excellent! The first time I saw Kurtis' chuck I thought, that is not just clever, but very useful. Thanks for sharing your beautiful work and expertise.
I have been noticing a similar thing . i had to go to my sub list to find one of yours the other day . Funny that after Ralfy mentioned a similar thing . Cheers .
Hi Max. Enjoyed the machining and picked up two good useful tips, using the 50mm spaced lines on the top slide for quick easy referencing the distance of travel required and only using your digital calliper when the tolerances become important near finishing to save ware and tare. Tony
Nice one Max, I like the idea, the design looks good and the manufacturer clearly has his eye in so this is going to be an interesting build. Cheers, Jon
Nicely done, I've seen Kurtis use his many time and watched his build video, it'll be a grand addition to your toolset. Looking forward to part two and the next shed video as well :)
Hi Max ... Wow Max, like the way you set up the steel shaft in the 4 Jaw chuck to pretty well "0" , made look like child's play. 👌 I could see the tongue being extended because of the drilled centre. Overall an amazing job, well done
Hello Max, I think the tailstock chucks are a good thing... I am not a big fan of making tools for just in case you need them but I really do think most machinist would use a tailstock chuck frequently if they had one... See you on Part 2. Cheers. Paul,,
Obviously more than one person has watched Kurtis and admired his rotating tailstock chuck. I have designs on paper but have been fraffing around with the bearing preload mechanism design.. I'll be interested in your finished design. Interesting you found no induction hardening under that chrome.
That was some really nice work, Max. I was going to try an make one of these myself, but I lucked into a really good deal on an inexpensive one a while back. It is likely no where near as nice as the one you are building, but should suffice in a pinch.
When you faced off the bar it looked like you skipped starting on the outside, and dug in leaving a slight ring at the outside edge. Is that what you did? My eyes could be playing tricks on me, but I was thinking maybe you did that because if you start on the outside it might push the bar out of alignment. Anyway 👍 looking forward to the continued.
I generally only face off the section req'd , the rest gets turned off much quicker in longitudinal cuts . I will explain when i do the hub & the penny will drop !!! Cheers .
I've bought myself a big magnifying glass to look at the condition of my inserts, eyes are getting to old to see the tiny chips / wear they get in them! The only way I knew when they needed changing was when my finish suddenly went to shit!
Always great Max. I have a nice 3 jaw tailstock but have been thinking about a 4 jaw tailstock. I have seen the one Kurtis built where he can put the 4 jaw on. I'm pretty sure when he's using the 4 jaw he just uses it long enough to machine an area for the steady rest to ride on. The way I see it when using the 4 jaw center, if your work ever slipped at the drive end ( headstock ) Then it would also throw things off at the tailstock because its not centered to the bearings. Again this is only when using the 4 jaw tailstock on something that does not run true. Would love to know your thoughts on that. Sorry so late getting to this video. Gary
Hi Gary . Yes , things would want to walk . The tailstock chuck would have to be indicated to match the high's & low's along the same plane as the headstock chuck . Cheers .
I'm a raw beginner but I know the rule of "No more tnan 4 diametrs of work sticking out of the chuck" (when actually turning). However you had a pretty long piece of work rotating at high rpm without any support such as steady rest when preparing the tailstock center hole. Is it safe to do that? In which case you would use a steady rest in a similar situation? In other words - When using a steady rest while preparing a center hole would be a must? Certain length of work?
Depends on the diameter & how much the chuck has hold . If i was to hold the bar close to the chuck & do the centre , it would not run true when pulled out to the reqd length . It's a bit of a short cut method . Don't do it with small diameter stock , say under 16mm or it can bend while rotating until you have the experience to do so . The steady rest can be used to support thinner material and large diameters that do not have a fair bit behind the chuck ( into the machine spindle ) .
@@swanvalleymachineshop so that the chuck can also take radial presure. Forces from the chuck towards the tailstock. Or do the bearings take care of that? Thanks!
@@swanvalleymachineshop I missed that detail i guess. Thanks! And say hello to Curtis (or Carl) the next time. I watch his channel and I really like his tail stock chuck. So thanks for showing how to build one.
Those Indian machine shops run their inserts through everything including lumpy welds, flanges with half in bolt holes , Splines of hardened steel. Pinion gears of hardened steel , Every ugly surface you can imagine and these people are desperate poor and I'm sure they can't afford to just go down to there local tool shop and grab a few hundred inserts at a time and start breaking them on every ugly surface job ! You got to watch them to believe it !
I have lost count of how many videos that you have done Max but I am as keen to watch them as I was when I watched the first ones. Lathe maintenance and mods from memory.
Thanks .
“What just dawned on me…” I love it, ‘cause it is very assuring that even experienced machinists have those moments “in the work”. I thought it was just my inexperienced me.
Yes , it happens ! Cheers .
Geez Max, the Australians are hitting it out of the park today. This week I was thinking about how I need a large boring bar that I can bolt directly to my tool post and also how much I would like a rotating chuck for my tailstock. Imagine my surprise this morning when I found out Kurtis was making a large boring bar and you were making a rotating chuck for your tailstock. I'm looking forward to the next installment. Thanks, Ken
Lol . It was a toss up between the lathe chuck or a boring bar , bloody Curtis beat me to the boring bar ! I have to make a big one for my other lathe . Cheers .
Max you have the mind of a magician mate excellent work I’ve been debating on making one for my lathe for ages and now you have given me the confidence to give it a go thanks a lot for sharing you skills and craftsmanship I have mental health problems and your channel has got me back into machining along with Kurtis lol have a blessed day all the best god bless
Good to hear it helps . Cheers .
I do not ever recal seeing such a tool in use so I'm going to be eagerly awaiting the next instalment.Whena taper test fit hids home like that you justknow it's a propper fit. First part I made on my lathe was a live centre, Head and tail stock being machcing tapers I used the tailstock to set the compoundand test fit the work, it did not want to let the job go! I scribed a heavy line on the saddle to set up quikly for the next time. Thanks for the vid Max
No worries . Cheers .
Hi Max, spot on with the taper, you need to get a decent coolant hose, hate those segmental plastic hoses.
Found a nice steel braided coolant hose in Indonesia, stays put where you aim it.
Yes , it's really starting to piss me off ! Hare & Forbs have the steel ones , i am going to check them out . I am hoping they will be at least half as good as the old British ones .
Wonderful idea Max and tool as handy as a pocket in a shirt. I built one for working on tubular parts, i.e. hydraulic cylinders some years back. Yours is way fancier than mine with seals and a retainer bolt even! Mine was just a press fit. Cheers
Beats the spiders we used to use , they were a right pain !
Excellent! The first time I saw Kurtis' chuck I thought, that is not just clever, but very useful. Thanks for sharing your beautiful work and expertise.
Thanks Bruce .
These are the kind of builds I love to see, so thanks so much for sharing with us .
No worries . Cheers .
Another fine job Max, liked the quick reference on the compound idea. Looking forward to part 2
Thanks Mate .
Gday Max, sorry mate I didn’t see this video last week, don’t know how I missed it, now onto part 2, cheers
I have been noticing a similar thing . i had to go to my sub list to find one of yours the other day . Funny that after Ralfy mentioned a similar thing . Cheers .
Hi Max. Enjoyed the machining and picked up two good useful tips, using the 50mm spaced lines on the top slide for quick easy referencing the
distance of travel required and only using your digital calliper when the tolerances become important near finishing to save ware and tare. Tony
See , i don't have all bad habits ! Cheers .
Well done and much enjoyed. Look forward to seeing it finished. 👍
Thanks Mate .
Nice one Max, I like the idea, the design looks good and the manufacturer clearly has his eye in so this is going to be an interesting build. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon .
Looking good nice work thanks
Thank you .
Excellent video !. You make it look easy...
Thanks Mate .
Nicely done, I've seen Kurtis use his many time and watched his build video, it'll be a grand addition to your toolset. Looking forward to part two and the next shed video as well :)
Which channel is Kurtis'? I'd like to check it out.
@@bobvines00 Cutting Edge Engineering on this link ruclips.net/channel/UC2wdo5vU7bPBNzyC2nnwmNQ
Thanks Paul . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop :) Cheers
@@paulhammond7489 Thanks Paul. I'll check them out right now! ;)
G’day Max. Good mating with the taper, well done.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter .
That's gonna be a great lathe tool. Your draftsmanship is pretty awesome too 👍😁👍.
Cheers!
Thanks Chris . Cheers .
Hi Max ... Wow Max, like the way you set up the steel shaft in the 4 Jaw chuck to pretty well "0" , made look like child's play. 👌 I could see the tongue being extended because of the drilled centre. Overall an amazing job, well done
Cheers Ted .
Hi great video thanks for sharing your project, looking forwards to the next episode.
Cheers Mate .
good video max
Cheers Mate .
Really enjoyed this Max, Cheers from Florida, USA...Paul
Thanks .
Hello Max,
I think the tailstock chucks are a good thing... I am not a big fan of making tools for just in case you need them but I really do think most machinist would use a tailstock chuck frequently if they had one... See you on Part 2.
Cheers.
Paul,,
Hi Paul . Yes , there has been times when i wished i had one . Now i do , almost ! Cheers .
Excellent job max, I've been putting off making me one, now I can copy the master. Great video, keep'um coming.
It will be an easy one to copy , even the bearing preload method !
Wow this is very cool Max as I was just thinking about making one of these and can't wait to see how you do it .
Thanks .
I’m surprised you didn’t use an offset tail stock thingy.
No criticism, I always enjoy your videos.
Don't have one of those thingy's ! I prefer to do it the proper way . 👍
Obviously more than one person has watched Kurtis and admired his rotating tailstock chuck.
I have designs on paper but have been fraffing around with the bearing preload mechanism design..
I'll be interested in your finished design.
Interesting you found no induction hardening under that chrome.
Hi Carl . Yes , not all chrome bar is hardened . It depends on the use . The pre load is easy with a spacer . I will cover that in detail . Cheers .
I was considering using a castilated nut, even considered converting a cheap stub axle setup.
That was some really nice work, Max. I was going to try an make one of these myself, but I lucked into a really good deal on an inexpensive one a while back. It is likely no where near as nice as the one you are building, but should suffice in a pinch.
Hi Rob . Not the sort of thing you use every day unless you do lots of long work . Handy to have , just in case ! Cheers .
Wonderful stuff buddy 👍
Cheers Mate .
G'day Max, I'll catch this later after I've been to my shop mate
Have a great one my mate 👍
Cheers Ralfy .
Had to pause the video for a piss break. You had to leave the coolant running. 🤣
It has that effect , that's why there will be a piss house in the new shop !!!
Giving the lathe a work out in this build. :)
Cheers Tom .That's what they are there for , not to be just polished & babied !!!
Enjoyed…
Thanks Chuck .
When you faced off the bar it looked like you skipped starting on the outside, and dug in leaving a slight ring at the outside edge. Is that what you did? My eyes could be playing tricks on me, but I was thinking maybe you did that because if you start on the outside it might push the bar out of alignment. Anyway 👍 looking forward to the continued.
I figured that Max did that for the same reason. The further out, the more leverage the tool puts on the unsupported end during a cut like that.
I generally only face off the section req'd , the rest gets turned off much quicker in longitudinal cuts .
I will explain when i do the hub & the penny will drop !!! Cheers .
@@bobvines00 It does & at that time i did not know if the steel was tough or soft .
Well late to the party on this Max, I'm after the plans 🙃
Cheers . I will email them . 👍
I've bought myself a big magnifying glass to look at the condition of my inserts, eyes are getting to old to see the tiny chips / wear they get in them! The only way I knew when they needed changing was when my finish suddenly went to shit!
That's all i do , change them when the finish goes to shit ! I keep them though for roughing work !
Always great Max. I have a nice 3 jaw tailstock but have been thinking about a 4 jaw tailstock. I have seen the one Kurtis built where he can put the 4 jaw on. I'm pretty sure when he's using the 4 jaw he just uses it long enough to machine an area for the steady rest to ride on. The way I see it when using the 4 jaw center, if your work ever slipped at the drive end ( headstock ) Then it would also throw things off at the tailstock because its not centered to the bearings. Again this is only when using the 4 jaw tailstock on something that does not run true. Would love to know your thoughts on that. Sorry so late getting to this video. Gary
Hi Gary . Yes , things would want to walk . The tailstock chuck would have to be indicated to match the high's & low's along the same plane as the headstock chuck .
Cheers .
I'm a raw beginner but I know the rule of "No more tnan 4 diametrs of work sticking out of the chuck" (when actually turning). However you had a pretty long piece of work rotating at high rpm without any support such as steady rest when preparing the tailstock center hole. Is it safe to do that? In which case you would use a steady rest in a similar situation? In other words - When using a steady rest while preparing a center hole would be a must? Certain length of work?
Depends on the diameter & how much the chuck has hold . If i was to hold the bar close to the chuck & do the centre , it would not run true when pulled out to the reqd length . It's a bit of a short cut method . Don't do it with small diameter stock , say under 16mm or it can bend while rotating until you have the experience to do so . The steady rest can be used to support thinner material and large diameters that do not have a fair bit behind the chuck ( into the machine spindle ) .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Thanks, I reckon it's better to overdo safety requirements at the beginning stages of learning curve.
Hi Max! Great video! Are you selling these plans?
No . If you want a copy , email me . The email is in the channel info if you click on it . 👍
Is the numbers in the machines hand book
Not a fully dimensioned MT male taper .
Can you share these drawing by posting them ie here on youtube as a picture? Cheers
Email me & i will send them is the easiest way . My email is in the channel description in the About header .
@@swanvalleymachineshop sorry I don't see your email address in your channel's about tab
@@therealspixycat theswanvalleymachineshop@gmail.com
No trust bearing?
Not sure what bearing you mean there ! Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop so that the chuck can also take radial presure. Forces from the chuck towards the tailstock. Or do the bearings take care of that? Thanks!
@@therealspixycat Yes it will take radial & axial forces . The taper roller bearings will have a slight pre load .
@@swanvalleymachineshop I missed that detail i guess. Thanks! And say hello to Curtis (or Carl) the next time. I watch his channel and I really like his tail stock chuck. So thanks for showing how to build one.
Those Indian machine shops run their inserts through everything including lumpy welds, flanges with half in bolt holes , Splines of hardened steel. Pinion gears of hardened steel , Every ugly surface you can imagine and these people are desperate poor and I'm sure they can't afford to just go down to there local tool shop and grab a few hundred inserts at a time and start breaking them on every ugly surface job ! You got to watch them to believe it !
And they do it all in thongs , i watch them ! 👍