thank you for this video! I followed step by step and it works... my other house had an issue with the lack of a common, so I wanted to make sure this install went smooth and your video was key in helping..thanks.
You can do the same thing with a 24vac power pack or wall wart as some people call them. If your wiring has the unused blue wire. you hook up one side to the blue and the other side to the wire that goes to the c wire.
Take a look at the furnace transformer which supplies the 24 volts to the gas furnace gas igniter, one side of the low voltage side of the thermostat is the hot line of the 24 volts ,the second line is the common line, some time connected to the terminal block and the letter varies C,B,X, since this is a gas furnace we assume that the B is for the common for the 24 volts of the thermostat, so cyap75 your B is your C terminal. O,and B for Heat Pump units only.again you have a gas furnace and the letter Bis the terminal of the thermostat 24 volt common .
So it is combining the thermostat's Y (compressor) and G (fan) signals along the single original blue wire in the wall. On the furnace side, it is reading the signal on the original blue wire and splitting it into the appropriate y and g signals from the thermostat. How does it recognize what the thermostat is calling for? Do the y and g signals differ electrically? It could only make sense if they did.
I have 3 wires, W, Y and RC. but need to have a C wire for the wireless thermastats. Would this work to provide a C wire or is there a more simple way?
Can I use this with a Honeywell zone controller in the mix? i.e., can I add the wire at the zone controller panel rather than directly at the furnace control board?
I complete all these steps, but on control board i have two wires in Y terminal. One coming from compressor and one from thermostate, how to go about using this device. I tried connecting all three together doesn't work
Your relay box almost damaged my A/C system! It only turned on the outside compressor and didn't turn on the cooling fan inside the attic causing it to freeze up. It was installed by TXU utilities. I would recommend to go ahead and run the wire for the unit no matter what the distance is. Opened the relay box and the tips were burnt suggest you use a higher amperage relay in your product. Good thing I came home for lunch to notice it not running. Keep building your Chinese made product I will buy American.
+LMSallabedraJR "Freezing up" will not damage anything. It's unfortunate that something went wrong in your system, but this product has a rating of 4.8 out of 5 at Amazon, and products rarely receive such high ratings. I'm going to use it to add a wire to make my 5 wires turn into 6. I don't see why a higher amperage relay would be necessary for switching small electronic circuits. The relay inside this thing isn't powering your fan. If it is, something's not right. There shouldn't be that much current going through those tiny wires inside your wall. The fan relay inside a Honeywell thermostat is rated for 0.5 amps. If you had enough current flowing to burn the contacts, that was way over 0.5 amps.
I am curious, How far is your thermostat from the air handler?, this product is only good for 75', which will normally take care of most residential applications.
Suzi Koshy You can use the Y wire. It just means you're furnace control is only capable of single stage cooling. If your control was capable of 2-stage cooling you would see a Y1 and a Y/Y2 terminal. I realize this is a very late response but it might help someone else with the same question.
Yes, you can go from 5 to 7 wires with 2 ACC0410 Add A Wires. With the first ACC0410 you can split the Yellow (typically compressor) wire to carry both Y1 and Y2. Then get a second ACC0410 to split the White (typically heat) wire for both W1 and W2.
This would be great in theory, but does absolutely no good for users who's HVAC control panel does NOT have a place for a common wire. Even if I tried using this adapter or had a proper 5 wire run, none of it does any good without the board itself having a dedicated common wire... I guess I'll have to find another solution 😒
I do everything I can not to use it. If I can run a new wire I always run a new wire. Add a wire is the last resort. The only place I use them really is in condos and high rises. If the place has an attic or a crawl space there always a way of running a new wire. Add a wire is one more thing that can go wrong in your ac system. They work but not always.
2:10- "As a side note, these are not my hands." ROTFLOL..
she's very self conscious. 😅😆
thank you for this video! I followed step by step and it works... my other house had an issue with the lack of a common, so I wanted to make sure this install went smooth and your video was key in helping..thanks.
For Part 2 of the install they mention ‘control box’… where is the control box located? Next to the boiler, in the air handler or elsewhere? Thx!
So I followed this to the T but my Luxaire furnace system has two white wires one is in the W but where would I put the other one?
You can do the same thing with a 24vac power pack or wall wart as some people call them. If your wiring has the unused blue wire. you hook up one side to the blue and the other side to the wire that goes to the c wire.
Great Video guys!
Take a look at the furnace transformer which supplies the 24 volts to the gas furnace gas igniter, one side of the low voltage side of the thermostat is the hot line of the 24 volts ,the second line is the common line, some time connected to the terminal block and the letter varies C,B,X, since this is a gas furnace we assume that the B is for the common for the 24 volts of the thermostat, so cyap75 your B is your C terminal. O,and B for Heat Pump units only.again you have a gas furnace and the letter Bis the terminal of the thermostat 24 volt common .
I dont have a C terminal on the furnace side - what are my options?
Tie in to the common side of the contactor, opposite of the one providing 24v to the board
What if you have a 5 wire thermostat and no c-wire and 4 zones? Do you need one of these for every zone?
Does anyone know if this will work for a Gaspak system?
"On a side note, these are not my hands." 🤣🤣🤣! (Disclaimer: those are not my faces)
Great installation video!
Think I'm gonna go with this instead of the Honeywell WireSaver Wiring Module because of this video uses a hot hostess.
Excellent video.
So it is combining the thermostat's Y (compressor) and G (fan) signals along the single original blue wire in the wall. On the furnace side, it is reading the signal on the original blue wire and splitting it into the appropriate y and g signals from the thermostat. How does it recognize what the thermostat is calling for? Do the y and g signals differ electrically? It could only make sense if they did.
I have 3 wires, W, Y and RC. but need to have a C wire for the wireless thermastats. Would this work to provide a C wire or is there a more simple way?
On the common terminal from the board you are missing the common wire from the condensing unit .
Can I use this with a Honeywell zone controller in the mix? i.e., can I add the wire at the zone controller panel rather than directly at the furnace control board?
I complete all these steps, but on control board i have two wires in Y terminal. One coming from compressor and one from thermostate, how to go about using this device. I tried connecting all three together doesn't work
Do I need 1 for each thermostat
is thisjust a jumper in a box
What if I don't have C terminal at all, and only 2 wires?
then you will need a thermastat that will not need a c wire.
You need a new thermostat.
You will have to run new wiring from the furnace main board that has a common wire through the house, and to where your thermostat is.
Your relay box almost damaged my A/C system! It only turned on the outside compressor and didn't turn on the cooling fan inside the attic causing it to freeze up. It was installed by TXU utilities. I would recommend to go ahead and run the wire for the unit no matter what the distance is. Opened the relay box and the tips were burnt suggest you use a higher amperage relay in your product. Good thing I came home for lunch to notice it not running. Keep building your Chinese made product I will buy American.
+LMSallabedraJR "Freezing up" will not damage anything. It's unfortunate that something went wrong in your system, but this product has a rating of 4.8 out of 5 at Amazon, and products rarely receive such high ratings. I'm going to use it to add a wire to make my 5 wires turn into 6. I don't see why a higher amperage relay would be necessary for switching small electronic circuits. The relay inside this thing isn't powering your fan. If it is, something's not right. There shouldn't be that much current going through those tiny wires inside your wall. The fan relay inside a Honeywell thermostat is rated for 0.5 amps. If you had enough current flowing to burn the contacts, that was way over 0.5 amps.
I've been using this Venstar Add-A-Wire unit for almost a year now, and it has been working great. So glad this is available!
I am curious, How far is your thermostat from the air handler?, this product is only good for 75', which will normally take care of most residential applications.
Carrier furnes
what are the consequences if I only complete the first part but not the second?
What is the Y1 for that you are able to split off of?
I believe this is for the air conditioner
Y1 is your compressor, single stage......
Seems like this is just adding a common wire!?
Can i use a Y wire instead of Y1. My system only has a y wire but not a y1. My wires are RH, W, Y, and G
Suzi Koshy You can use the Y wire. It just means you're furnace control is only capable of single stage cooling. If your control was capable of 2-stage cooling you would see a Y1 and a Y/Y2 terminal. I realize this is a very late response but it might help someone else with the same question.
She was definitely NOT my instructor at school. Would have kept my attention better that's for sure.
How do you wire two of these to make 5 wires become 7?
Yes, you can go from 5 to 7 wires with 2 ACC0410 Add A Wires. With the first ACC0410 you can split the Yellow (typically compressor) wire to carry both Y1 and Y2. Then get a second ACC0410 to split the White (typically heat) wire for both W1 and W2.
This would be great in theory, but does absolutely no good for users who's HVAC control panel does NOT have a place for a common wire. Even if I tried using this adapter or had a proper 5 wire run, none of it does any good without the board itself having a dedicated common wire... I guess I'll have to find another solution 😒
i'm too distracted
I do everything I can not to use it. If I can run a new wire I always run a new wire. Add a wire is the last resort. The only place I use them really is in condos and high rises. If the place has an attic or a crawl space there always a way of running a new wire. Add a wire is one more thing that can go wrong in your ac system. They work but not always.
That’s not helping them lmao.
Probably easier to just get a 24v transformer and plug it in behind the thermostat.
LOL, "in 5 minutes" this is a 30 minute job minimum
Do you make house calls 👙
Note to video director: the music is out of place, i.e., obnoxious... and I like (generally speaking) heavy metal.
What if your furnace circuit board doesn't have a "c" terminal? My board only has w1, w2, y, r, g, b
impossible you have to have some type of common use your meter find the 24 current flow.
try B