⚠ IMPORTANT ⚠ Make sure to flash the BTT Eddy firmware before you install the cable into the machine. The guide for flashing the Eddy firmware is included in the following video ruclips.net/video/B17sS1klRxA/видео.html Once you install the firmware for the Eddy you can then move onto installing the cables. Note - you do not want to install the SimpleAF firmware until after you have the probe installed into you K1 Series machine.
Yes the filament on the nozzle is a problem on the load cell and one problem is that under the plate it hase to be clean i mean every time you remove the plate check the under side tip. Nice video ❤
Great videos as this is the second one of yours that I've watched. I would like install this BTTEddy, but the firmware challenge would be high risk for me. A tutorial for the K1 would be much appreciated as I have already rooted the printer to Mainsail.
Thank you I'm glad you liked the videos! I will be doing a follow up video in the next few days that will go over installing the firmware for both the BTT Eddy as well as installing firmware for the printer. Don't worry its a process anyone can do, So no need to stress or worry :)
That is an option. I've avoided having anyone pull the tool head apart for any reason though. I know the K1 Max has USB pass through but the other machines do not feature it sadly.
Can I make a suggestion. It would be a good idea to edit this to note the need to flash the eddy with a computer before fitting it. I found this out the hard way by starting with this video then watching your follow up video for the firmware update, after chopping the cable and buttoning the machine back up. I ended up installing guppy on my k1c, useing the guppy install method to flash with the K1C itself, but while dropping in the simpleAF eddy uf2 instead of the guppy one, then factory resetting, then installing simpleAF. Much hoop jumping. Of course the guppy uf2 may have been the same as the simpleAF one, but but I didn't want to have to do it all again.
Oh man sorry you had to do that. It is noted in the description of the video but sometimes people can miss it. I've myself missed important notes like this before. Unfortunately RUclips doesn't allow me to edit any videos after upload or do not text. I really miss the video note text they used to have. Sorry again you had to go through that. I will be doing an updated video in the future to address a few things that have changed since this.
@@zerodotcmd Na, not your fault. You are quite right, I read that note after the fact, the word "important" seemed to spell "idiot" as I read it, 4am will do that. Now I'm battling the probe error issue, been reading gist:484380b26be613b9139bc537510393df from BTT, may have to fire up vscode next.
Hey, I have the K1 Max, and when installing the BTT Eddy, I noticed too late that all the USB connectors (JSB) on the motherboard are already all populated (1 for the hot head board, 1 for the camera, 1 for the USB port in the front of the printer). As I don't want to lose any of these, I saw that there was a female micro USB port soldered on the motherboard, so I plugged the BTT Eddy there after soldering a micro USB male plug to the BTT cable. I haven't had time to test it yet, but do you think it will work? Any configuration that I need to modify in the installation process for it to be recognized? Thanks in advance.o
I think I just figured out by checking the motherbords layouts that the JST connector that goes to the hotel board is just an extension for the AI Lidar, so I can disconnect it and connect the BTT Eddy there instead. Will try it today after work.
Yes you are correct. On the K1 Max the Board passes USB up to the print head for the lidar. you can use that port. Also K1 Max users have the option of using the Lidar port on the side of the print head.
Since the toolhead is the same on all k1 printers, why not connect the eddy sensor to the lidar usb cable on the left of the toolhead? It has the two screw holes ready and a connector (might be usb) that does not require you to remove the cover from the toolhead.
Cheers man I needed to know how to add my btt eddy to my k1 and now I know how to do that thanks to your amazing brain when will you make a tutorial for installing the eddy firmware and setting it up? I would happily appreciate one
Don't have neither the K1 nor the Eddy, but this was a nice watch regardless :D also if you heat the heat shrink with the blue part of the flame it won't singe or scorch anything.
I have an Eddy for my K1 Max… I’ve done the linear rail mod and the Cyclops extruder. Just don’t have it in me to run the eddy because i don’t want to lose the Z-offset feature. Don’t want to have to manually do that.
I felt the same way. I don't agree with Big Tree Tech and the lack of a proper Z-offset. luckily there is an extremely easy way to get that feature back. It will be included in my next video.
What is the start print macro time like with Eddy installed? I have my my start print macro edited to not perform the nozzle wipe. For a medium sized print, using kamp, my start macro is around 5 minutes. With the Eddy installed, there won't be a long mesh probe process or an auto z offset performed, that should make the start time drastically reduced, correct?
@@zerodotcmdgood to hear. My Eddy sensor should be in tomorrow. I'm looking forward to messing around. I fortunately got a really sold K1c and have not had any issues with bed levelling, adhesion, or anything. I know I won the Creality lottery there.
Hi @zerodotcmd I've been watching your recent videos with great interest and I thank you for your fine efforts. I have a K1 Max and after some effort, have managed to get my stock bed to within a tollerance of around 0.25mm across the full bed - yet I still can't get that perfect first layer needed for when printing parts face down. I think my issue is just the accuracy of the stock load cell probing as when I run PROBE_ACCURACY command in the console, it reports an accuracy of around .028mm. To quote from the Klipper website, "If the results of the test show a range value that is greater than 25 microns (.025mm) then the probe does not have sufficient accuracy for typical bed leveling procedures." I'm therefore very interested in doing the BTT Eddy probe upgrade - Looking at your files on Printables, I saw someone saying you might be doing a guide on connecting this via the LIDAR connection on the print head? Just wondering if you could confirm? Many thanks :)
Yes I will be doing an updated video. It won't be out right away as I have a few other videos in the works. The implementation of the Load Cells of the K1 series is a really bad implementation and hard to get accurate readings from. This is the main reason a lot of people are moving to after market probes.
@@zerodotcmd so i seen in a earlier comment that i can just plug the eddy into the lidar port on the tool head. would i also just be able to use the lidar cable as well? sorry for all the questions im new to modding printers
@JonnyTheKidd. Yes if you are using the max you can use the lidar port. No worries for the questions :) If you join the SimpleAF discord there are several helpful users who have done this process. The discord is linked on the firmwares github page.
I've been using my K1C for six months now, with the load cells doing the bed leveling. It works fine. Even with third party build plates that don't have a nozzle wipe, it tests for the presence of the nozzle wipe, and if it's not there it uses the back edge of the plate to wipe the nozzle. It adjusts the temperature of the nozzle as it is doing the wipe so that it cleans the nozzle. This mod is totally unnecessary, in my opinion.
@@daveduncan2748 I'm glad to hear your printer is working out great for you! Unfortunately this is not always the case for everyone. Many people have issues with probing and load cells. In the mechanical world it is rare that 20 users all have the same level of expected experience and some users do require the extra step to get things working as intended. I'm glad you are having a good experience with your machine, I would always encourage users to leave a machine alone if it is working fine. Do no fix what is already working.
Lol. A probe that is faster, gives more accurate measurements. Is pointless ? U may like your prints to loom sun par. But some of us like to have a much higher chance. Of when we send a print it comes out with as little banding as possible. God dammit tired of noobs and their un informed yammering
@@aydenhanlon1674 The nozzle cleaning procedure is pretty thorough. First, it roughly zeroes the z-axis by touching the plate with a cold nozzle, and whatever filament is sticking out. Then it heats the nozzle and wipes it, then cools the nozzle and wipes again. Then it waits for the build plate to reach printing temp, and then zeroes the z axis at the center and corners of the build plate. And it is working with the 5x5 grid of the last extensive leveling of the build plate. It's pretty much perfect, even when I switch between the factory build plate and many third-party build plates that I've bought. Really, quite an impressive leveling and nozzle-cleaning routine that produces awesome results.
"you will most likely break the toolhead before you break this part". Eeeeeek... because that makes sense right? Break the toolhead, rather than losing $0.03 worth of a printed part...😆
Simply mean that people shouldn't worry about the part not holding up. lol by no means do I recommend anyone pull on any of the parts attached to their tool head.
⚠ IMPORTANT ⚠ Make sure to flash the BTT Eddy firmware before you install the cable into the machine. The guide for flashing the Eddy firmware is included in the following video ruclips.net/video/B17sS1klRxA/видео.html Once you install the firmware for the Eddy you can then move onto installing the cables. Note - you do not want to install the SimpleAF firmware until after you have the probe installed into you K1 Series machine.
Glad to see a straightforward real talk tutorial. Keep it up!
Thanks will do. glad you liked the video!
Thanks for your tutorial, I also have a K1c, did you remove the springs from the head?
You're welcome. No I haven't removed the springs for the K1C. This is a whole other topic I will be looking into covering.
Yes the filament on the nozzle is a problem on the load cell and one problem is that under the plate it hase to be clean i mean every time you remove the plate check the under side tip. Nice video ❤
Exactly! these problems are exactly what led me down the modding rabbit hole.
could you add the link for the cable chain clips to the description?
Here you go! www.printables.com/model/496694-k1-bowden-tube-clips
I'll update the description as well.
Great videos as this is the second one of yours that I've watched. I would like install this BTTEddy, but the firmware challenge would be high risk for me. A tutorial for the K1 would be much appreciated as I have already rooted the printer to Mainsail.
Thank you I'm glad you liked the videos! I will be doing a follow up video in the next few days that will go over installing the firmware for both the BTT Eddy as well as installing firmware for the printer. Don't worry its a process anyone can do, So no need to stress or worry :)
On the K1 max do you have to remove lidar to fit the eddy? From what i can see the part obstucts it.
@@BoxGenius Yes the lidar needs to be removed to use any after market probe. Which is OK. The lidar doesn't have the best reputation.
@@zerodotcmd ok thanks for the reply, great videos by the way
@ZeroDot: why not just use the LiDAR JST connector for the Eddy and then relocate the same JST on the main board?
That is an option. I've avoided having anyone pull the tool head apart for any reason though. I know the K1 Max has USB pass through but the other machines do not feature it sadly.
Can I make a suggestion. It would be a good idea to edit this to note the need to flash the eddy with a computer before fitting it. I found this out the hard way by starting with this video then watching your follow up video for the firmware update, after chopping the cable and buttoning the machine back up. I ended up installing guppy on my k1c, useing the guppy install method to flash with the K1C itself, but while dropping in the simpleAF eddy uf2 instead of the guppy one, then factory resetting, then installing simpleAF. Much hoop jumping. Of course the guppy uf2 may have been the same as the simpleAF one, but but I didn't want to have to do it all again.
Oh man sorry you had to do that. It is noted in the description of the video but sometimes people can miss it. I've myself missed important notes like this before. Unfortunately RUclips doesn't allow me to edit any videos after upload or do not text. I really miss the video note text they used to have. Sorry again you had to go through that. I will be doing an updated video in the future to address a few things that have changed since this.
@@zerodotcmd Na, not your fault. You are quite right, I read that note after the fact, the word "important" seemed to spell "idiot" as I read it, 4am will do that. Now I'm battling the probe error issue, been reading gist:484380b26be613b9139bc537510393df from BTT, may have to fire up vscode next.
Hey, I have the K1 Max, and when installing the BTT Eddy, I noticed too late that all the USB connectors (JSB) on the motherboard are already all populated (1 for the hot head board, 1 for the camera, 1 for the USB port in the front of the printer). As I don't want to lose any of these, I saw that there was a female micro USB port soldered on the motherboard, so I plugged the BTT Eddy there after soldering a micro USB male plug to the BTT cable. I haven't had time to test it yet, but do you think it will work? Any configuration that I need to modify in the installation process for it to be recognized? Thanks in advance.o
I think I just figured out by checking the motherbords layouts that the JST connector that goes to the hotel board is just an extension for the AI Lidar, so I can disconnect it and connect the BTT Eddy there instead. Will try it today after work.
Yes you are correct. On the K1 Max the Board passes USB up to the print head for the lidar. you can use that port. Also K1 Max users have the option of using the Lidar port on the side of the print head.
Since the toolhead is the same on all k1 printers, why not connect the eddy sensor to the lidar usb cable on the left of the toolhead?
It has the two screw holes ready and a connector (might be usb) that does not require you to remove the cover from the toolhead.
Unfortunately the Lidar port only works for the K1 Max machines. there is no USB pass through on the the K1/K1C. I wish there was.
Can you use the wiring for the LIDAR and just connect to the port on the tool head?
If you have a K1 Max you can. If not you would have to rewire the USB pass through since it is removed on the non max machines.
Cheers man I needed to know how to add my btt eddy to my k1 and now I know how to do that thanks to your amazing brain when will you make a tutorial for installing the eddy firmware and setting it up? I would happily appreciate one
Thanks I'm glad the video was helpful to you! I'm looking at doing a firmware installation guide very soon!
Thank God for that haha 😄 I definitely subscribed and hit that bell, so I know when you drop the installation guide I can't wait 😄
Don't have neither the K1 nor the Eddy, but this was a nice watch regardless :D also if you heat the heat shrink with the blue part of the flame it won't singe or scorch anything.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video even though you don't own these items. 😊The blue part is the best part of the flame.
I have an Eddy for my K1 Max… I’ve done the linear rail mod and the Cyclops extruder. Just don’t have it in me to run the eddy because i don’t want to lose the Z-offset feature. Don’t want to have to manually do that.
I felt the same way. I don't agree with Big Tree Tech and the lack of a proper Z-offset. luckily there is an extremely easy way to get that feature back. It will be included in my next video.
@@zerodotcmd really??? Maybe I will install that eddy then when you drop that video and school me on it….
Z-offset is a feature I cannot live without! The video will drop later this week!
What is the start print macro time like with Eddy installed? I have my my start print macro edited to not perform the nozzle wipe. For a medium sized print, using kamp, my start macro is around 5 minutes. With the Eddy installed, there won't be a long mesh probe process or an auto z offset performed, that should make the start time drastically reduced, correct?
The Eddy greatly reduces the print start times. There are far fewer steps involved when using the Eddy. Eddy also works great with KAMP.
@@zerodotcmdgood to hear. My Eddy sensor should be in tomorrow. I'm looking forward to messing around. I fortunately got a really sold K1c and have not had any issues with bed levelling, adhesion, or anything. I know I won the Creality lottery there.
Hi @zerodotcmd I've been watching your recent videos with great interest and I thank you for your fine efforts. I have a K1 Max and after some effort, have managed to get my stock bed to within a tollerance of around 0.25mm across the full bed - yet I still can't get that perfect first layer needed for when printing parts face down. I think my issue is just the accuracy of the stock load cell probing as when I run PROBE_ACCURACY command in the console, it reports an accuracy of around .028mm. To quote from the Klipper website, "If the results of the test show a range value that is greater than 25 microns (.025mm) then the probe does not have sufficient accuracy for typical bed leveling procedures." I'm therefore very interested in doing the BTT Eddy probe upgrade - Looking at your files on Printables, I saw someone saying you might be doing a guide on connecting this via the LIDAR connection on the print head? Just wondering if you could confirm? Many thanks :)
Yes I will be doing an updated video. It won't be out right away as I have a few other videos in the works. The implementation of the Load Cells of the K1 series is a really bad implementation and hard to get accurate readings from. This is the main reason a lot of people are moving to after market probes.
@@zerodotcmd Awesome thank you for the reply - I look forward to the video when you get the time :)
Could u pls tell me which version I need. Eddy or Eddy coil?
Eddy USB. I have a link in the description.
@@zerodotcmd would it be the same version for the k1 max
@@JonnyTheKidd. Yes its the same version of the Eddy for the Max.
@@zerodotcmd so i seen in a earlier comment that i can just plug the eddy into the lidar port on the tool head. would i also just be able to use the lidar cable as well? sorry for all the questions im new to modding printers
@JonnyTheKidd. Yes if you are using the max you can use the lidar port. No worries for the questions :) If you join the SimpleAF discord there are several helpful users who have done this process. The discord is linked on the firmwares github page.
I've been using my K1C for six months now, with the load cells doing the bed leveling. It works fine. Even with third party build plates that don't have a nozzle wipe, it tests for the presence of the nozzle wipe, and if it's not there it uses the back edge of the plate to wipe the nozzle. It adjusts the temperature of the nozzle as it is doing the wipe so that it cleans the nozzle. This mod is totally unnecessary, in my opinion.
@@daveduncan2748 I'm glad to hear your printer is working out great for you! Unfortunately this is not always the case for everyone. Many people have issues with probing and load cells. In the mechanical world it is rare that 20 users all have the same level of expected experience and some users do require the extra step to get things working as intended. I'm glad you are having a good experience with your machine, I would always encourage users to leave a machine alone if it is working fine. Do no fix what is already working.
Lol. A probe that is faster, gives more accurate measurements. Is pointless ? U may like your prints to loom sun par. But some of us like to have a much higher chance. Of when we send a print it comes out with as little banding as possible. God dammit tired of noobs and their un informed yammering
@zerodotcmd he dosent know his ass from his elbow zero 😂 these guys show.off prints that look like stringy zebras and say mission accomplished. 🎉
Yea my experience with leveling has been great aswell
@@aydenhanlon1674 The nozzle cleaning procedure is pretty thorough. First, it roughly zeroes the z-axis by touching the plate with a cold nozzle, and whatever filament is sticking out. Then it heats the nozzle and wipes it, then cools the nozzle and wipes again. Then it waits for the build plate to reach printing temp, and then zeroes the z axis at the center and corners of the build plate. And it is working with the 5x5 grid of the last extensive leveling of the build plate. It's pretty much perfect, even when I switch between the factory build plate and many third-party build plates that I've bought. Really, quite an impressive leveling and nozzle-cleaning routine that produces awesome results.
"you will most likely break the toolhead before you break this part". Eeeeeek... because that makes sense right? Break the toolhead, rather than losing $0.03 worth of a printed part...😆
Simply mean that people shouldn't worry about the part not holding up. lol by no means do I recommend anyone pull on any of the parts attached to their tool head.
Turn machine off ? How else will I get that smell of freshly popped electronics in thw morning.
Its a very expensive smell lol
As long as you have a rattle can of magic smoke to replace the smoke that came out of components, there’s no problem. 😉
@@philipershler420 I think you can pick those up on Amazon!