Brother whenever you got a situation like that, always take a look at the heat exchanger. If you have a rust spot on it with a hole it can cause roll out.
Yes. Examine the flame carefully before the blower motor starts and compare any changes in how the flame responds. Also take off the back panel to examine the heat exchanger for any cracks. There's also no way a roll out would be bad enough to get to that relay to melt it. There would be many other major signs of heat damage. The relay failed from bad connections that created excessive heat from the current of the inducer fan
*Used to supplement the up stairs when it gets hot outside this works very well and **Fastly.Cool** Also works good when the upstairs gets too hot in the Winter from the heater.*
You go ask yourself why the rollout switch was jump out could be heat exchanger has a cracked l would pull off the panels for the heat exchanger very important .I would check it and monitor the flame to see if there and wave when the blower comes on if everything checks ok get a new roll switch it's going to fail and your going be up there in the middle of the winter. Great video .
Gas pressure too had a call last week unit tripping on rollout ended up checking it fire at 4in WC I set it down to 3.3 but overfiring did its damage to the heat exchanger
Missed a lot of things. Didn’t amp inducer motor to find out why the relay burnt up. Didn’t check gas pressure, temp rise blower amps or even the heat exchanger. Could’ve been over firing or heat exchanger is rusted out but didn’t check.
Best practice to shut gas off rather than DC when on heating mode. Shutting the gas off allows the indoor fan to continue to run to cool the heat exchanger to prevent warping and stressing it. Grab that remote and crack one open😁
Probably jumped out the rollout because York is notorious for having sketchy rollouts. A continuity test will show the switch as closed, but there’s enough resistance to interrupt the safety circuit. Every single time I have a York no heat call I replace the rollout
Lol there’s a-lot wrong here but this video is super old,after watching one of his newer videos. He seems a-lot more knowledgeable about hvac and the dangers as a whole. But that flame is definitely bright orange. Which is a big no
Thanks for the video . It’s very helpful. My church currently has not heat on all 4 of the furnaces. I’m about to open it up and take a look. I will follow the order of operation you showed us and check for current . Any way thanks for the videos
Boa Noite estas placas de controle são padrões pra todas as máquinas ou cada uma tem.seu modelo? A parte de aquecimento a gás se precisar fazer brasagem corre risco de explosão?
I was just thinking the same thing. Either a bad heat exchanger or a air leak on the sides where the heat exchanger mounts the the unit. So when the blower comes on it hits the flame. .
Didn’t check heat exchanger. Didn’t amp inducer motor to see why the relay burnt up. Didn’t check gas pressure, temp rise and amp all components. Did all that shit talk about hacks but failed to complete his job to 100%. Big picture
Normally I don’t care much but he shouldn’t be focusing so much on showing off his tools and how pretty his new part was compared to actually repairing the unit. This isn’t as bad as jumping out a safety, but if you ask me this is just as irresponsible. If that roll out is defective and gets stuck closed with a bad heat exchanger (that he didn’t check), he could be risking everyone in that church’s health.
The roll out could of been jumped because of high resistance but basics teach us the roll out did it’s job and locked the unit out for safety. You should of checked that heat exchanger before you left.
So I was sent to replace a heat exchanger , roll out switch , fan limit , high limit , igniter, flam sensor and ignition bored. It’s a York from the 90s. ( I didn’t originally diagnose just doing the hard work for a older tech) . I replaced everything and went to burn off and the inducer runs continuously but no ignition. I’m not getting 24 off the bored to any of the switches. So I switched the bored with an identical unit to see if that’s the problem and it’s not. Unit has no pressure switches. Can someone point me in the right direction? Also what does “ IR” mean on the wiring schematic?
Brother whenever you got a situation like that, always take a look at the heat exchanger. If you have a rust spot on it with a hole it can cause roll out.
Yes. Examine the flame carefully before the blower motor starts and compare any changes in how the flame responds. Also take off the back panel to examine the heat exchanger for any cracks. There's also no way a roll out would be bad enough to get to that relay to melt it. There would be many other major signs of heat damage. The relay failed from bad connections that created excessive heat from the current of the inducer fan
*Used to supplement the up stairs when it gets hot outside this works very well and **Fastly.Cool** Also works good when the upstairs gets too hot in the Winter from the heater.*
Good luck changing heat exchanger on york RTU
You go ask yourself why the rollout switch was jump out could be heat exchanger has a cracked l would pull off the panels for the heat exchanger very important .I would check it and monitor the flame to see if there and wave when the blower comes on if everything checks ok get a new roll switch it's going to fail and your going be up there in the middle of the winter. Great video .
Gas pressure too had a call last week unit tripping on rollout ended up checking it fire at 4in WC I set it down to 3.3 but overfiring did its damage to the heat exchanger
Missed a lot of things. Didn’t amp inducer motor to find out why the relay burnt up. Didn’t check gas pressure, temp rise blower amps or even the heat exchanger. Could’ve been over firing or heat exchanger is rusted out but didn’t check.
Best practice to shut gas off rather than DC when on heating mode. Shutting the gas off allows the indoor fan to continue to run to cool the heat exchanger to prevent warping and stressing it. Grab that remote and crack one open😁
I see a rollout jumped the first thing i do is visually check the heat exchanger. I do that before putting any new parts on the unit.
It’s the best feeling in the world when you get them going !
Yehh no excuses fof that jumper, we had a guy who we called dangerous Pete as he was suspected of doing just this.
Probably jumped out the rollout because York is notorious for having sketchy rollouts. A continuity test will show the switch as closed, but there’s enough resistance to interrupt the safety circuit. Every single time I have a York no heat call I replace the rollout
Good to see u din't ignored the jumper wire....
Lol there’s a-lot wrong here but this video is super old,after watching one of his newer videos. He seems a-lot more knowledgeable about hvac and the dangers as a whole. But that flame is definitely bright orange. Which is a big no
Great tutorial. Interesting and helpful video. As always great job JMT. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You can have continuity across the roll out and it still wouldn't work. High impedance. High resistance = lower voltage
Thanks for the video . It’s very helpful. My church currently has not heat on all 4 of the furnaces. I’m about to open it up and take a look. I will follow the order of operation you showed us and check for current . Any way thanks for the videos
Boa Noite estas placas de controle são padrões pra todas as máquinas ou cada uma tem.seu modelo? A parte de aquecimento a gás se precisar fazer brasagem corre risco de explosão?
Please Recommend a book to read for Chiller Maintenance and Repair
Check out Herbert Stanford’s book on chillers. One of the best around. Best bet is to get enrolled at JCI chiller class
Jumper man finds a jumper on the unit lol
Why didn’t you check the heat exchanger
Mentions the flame may have rolled out and burnt the wiring but doesn’t look into why the flame may have been rolling out. Definite call back here.
I was just thinking the same thing. Either a bad heat exchanger or a air leak on the sides where the heat exchanger mounts the the unit. So when the blower comes on it hits the flame. .
Didn’t check heat exchanger. Didn’t amp inducer motor to see why the relay burnt up. Didn’t check gas pressure, temp rise and amp all components. Did all that shit talk about hacks but failed to complete his job to 100%. Big picture
Normally I don’t care much but he shouldn’t be focusing so much on showing off his tools and how pretty his new part was compared to actually repairing the unit. This isn’t as bad as jumping out a safety, but if you ask me this is just as irresponsible. If that roll out is defective and gets stuck closed with a bad heat exchanger (that he didn’t check), he could be risking everyone in that church’s health.
I see alot on rtu up here in north Kentucky areas it must York it's heating problem check the exchanger.
The roll out could of been jumped because of high resistance but basics teach us the roll out did it’s job and locked the unit out for safety. You should of checked that heat exchanger before you left.
I knew what was wrong before I started the video it’s a York!
Can you do a tutorial of the tools in that bag
How could you feel good about the service call without checking the heat exchanger????
They should have called a professional….
Thanks for the video
You're very welcome & thanks for watching!
Brilliant as always
Well done 👍 troubleshooting material.
Looks like that condenser coil had some staining in the lower portion of it at the beginning of the video. Looked like oil staining.
Out of curiosity why did you not check the heat exchange
thanks for sharing 👍
Isn't it possible that jumper was left behind on accident
Great video. God Bless. Love ur laughter
Fantastic!
Hey jumper man
Can you do your videos in español??
So I was sent to replace a heat exchanger , roll out switch , fan limit , high limit , igniter, flam sensor and ignition bored. It’s a York from the 90s. ( I didn’t originally diagnose just doing the hard work for a older tech) . I replaced everything and went to burn off and the inducer runs continuously but no ignition. I’m not getting 24 off the bored to any of the switches. So I switched the bored with an identical unit to see if that’s the problem and it’s not. Unit has no pressure switches. Can someone point me in the right direction? Also what does “ IR” mean on the wiring schematic?
It's been a year. Nobody answered. Did you figure it out? Can you share what you found out?
Was the gas off to the unit?
I wouldn't want you working on my RTUs.
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great video jmt
Nc vid
Please visit a barber and do not complain about other people’s work
Crack heat exchanger 💯
#173 Thumbs uP