Holley Super Sniper EFI Easy Improvements
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Holley just came out with the new and improve Holley Sniper 2! One of the major improvements has to do with a redesigned throttle shaft and plate geometry for an enhanced throttle pedal feel. If you were considering the Sniper check out the Sniper 2 using the link below: holley-team.co...
Holley Super Sniper EFI Easy Improvements. In this video I show you two inexpensive and easy improvements you can make to your Holley Super Sniper 1250 or Holley Sniper EFI. First, we address the high pedal effort which can make it difficult to smoothly take off from a stop after installing your Holley EFI without going to a progressive linkage. Second, I fix that pesky whistling sound many people hear at part throttle while also potentially improving performance throughout the rpm range witha Wilson Racing tapered bore 4 hole spacer. 
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If you found this video or any of my other Holley Sniper videos useful BUT you still own a carburetor please check out my newest videos where I cover carburetor installation and fine tuning! Stay tuned for more content and thanks for watching.
where you went wrong is using 2 different wide bands to calculate afr. I can tell you right now the Aem 30 series unit you are using is very accurately calibrated out of the box than the Holley unit. Just to verify, swap sides but keep the same sensors matted to the aem and holly, ( do not just unplug and plug into different banks. ) after you verify the AEM and holly are reading the same in each bank as they were in the other banks. calibrate the holly wideband only. Retest. if afr readings are still that far off manually adjust voltage curve for the holly until it matches the AEM unit.
Nice video. Keep in mind holley recommends putting this oxygen sensors about 10 inches behind the collector. I know from experience that if you put them in the header or even within 3 inches the sensors will fail regularly. So anyone reading this that's replaced a sensor... You now know why.
have a Holley sniper on the way, thanks for the tips! love your Holley tutorials and your channel!
I’ve been using the sniper for 3.5 years had the sniper whistle on install ended up using an 1/2 inch open wood spacer due to clearance sound disappeared . With the stiff peddle I ended up going full mvb now the peddle is real light and don’t have that initial stiffness on light throttle or take off . I found going from the Bosch 02 sensor to a NTK was more accurate in readings where the std Holley sensor would fluctuate a lot more . Thanks on taking your time and putting it out there . Informative vid. !
Hello, What is MVD?
I've been thinking about putting a Sniper on my wife's Camaro and stumbled across this video while doing research. Another thing that can really ramp up the initial throttle pressure is return spring geometry. Instead of putting it on the bottom of the throttle arm and running it to the rear of the engine it should be at the top of the arm running to the front. The way you've got it installed puts the throttle shaft in a bind and can put the spring at a weird angle (although yours doesn't look that bad) that really takes a lot of force to overcome. On a carb this leads to quicker throttle shaft bushing wear and odd driveability problems. Don't know how it would affect EFI, but it could cause the poor throttle feel.
AND when both primary and secondary are engaging at the same time you get two springs to fight on the sniper. They need a stack spring in there on the secondary so that a weak spring on the secondary engages first until you get down on it and open up past say 20% on secondary at which time the 2nd spring on secondary engages.
Putting my Sniper on this week. I didn't realize that all 4 butterflies opened at once until I took it out of the box. Replacing a 650 Holley double pump carb. Thanks for the great tips. I'll be making the throttle bracket soon.
Yea its the move. Progressive linkage is ok but you sacrifice a lot of performance
AFR distribution differences are pretty common with dual plane intake from everything I've seen. .5 isnt bad. Like others said a single plane would probably make that go away. If you had an O2 sensor in every header tube youd likely see bigger differences than that.
I just added the extension arm. I cannot believe how well it works. Thank you so much
That is awesome! Im really glad the video helped your drivability!
@@truckandroll989 I'm still working on it. I had a lot of problems with exhaust leaks and then the ECU went. Holley changed the main body and ECU. I now have about 75 miles on it and all is good. It's an off-road truck so it hard to get street mii
I installed the sniper on my F100 a few yrs ago. The extension worked great. It also slows the rate at which the throttle opens. (increases pedal travel)
I installed the 4 hole from the start and it worked great.
Good vid 👍
I just got the Holly throttle lever from holly. I had a holly sniper put on my 76 Corvette. From a dead stop its very had for me to take off. People think I'm hot rodding but I'm just trying to go. Thanks for the video. I'll get that on tomorrow probably then the big test. I hope it works good...
Its night and day difference in drivability. Best thing is you can modify it as you see fit with the length of the linkage. Just make sure when you are done if you have someone floor it with the engine off that the TPS says around 100% and the throttle is fully open
What if the tps doesn't say 100% ??
Idle is also higher now with lever extension at 1100 rpm instead of before with snappy pedal at 800 rpm
@spades262 how close are we talking? If its close likely nbd. Otherwise you will want to figure out whats preventing wot and adjust that. Could be cable, linkage, etc.
@@truckandroll989 it was me needing a throttle cable return spring
After the install it was fine thanks !
Love your stuff bro. I'm currently building my 86. I'm running a 502/4l80e combo with sniper and stand alone controller. Just bolted everything up and started wiring yesterday. Awesome tips I will be adding both of these during install!
Liked and subbed! I had the exact issue with throttle stiffness you described in my 81 K10 with NV4500, especially after having to add another wrap on the secondary torsion spring. I made the linkage extension and the pedal is so smooth now that I’m having to train my foot to drive it differently. I’ll try the spacer next to get rid of the whistle noise. Thanks for this!
Really glad I could help
@truckandroll6466 do you have the dimensions for that throttle body extension you made up?
Thanks so much for your video! Looking forward for the plans. If you want to make some extras, I have no problem paying for your time, materials and shipping. 😀
I just watched this update of this beautiful truck and I'm very happy to see shes doing awesome and sounds great!
great vid as always. May I suggest you look into a single plane intake. I know the air gap is the darling of manifolds and it matches your top end kit and RPM peaks. But I keep seeing Richard Holdner drop comments about the distribution issues with throttle body FI and people comment the dual plane intakes do not work well with them.
Thats a good call. Ive been tinkering with the idea. Id love to throw a Torq storm supercharger on here and i think the supercharger would necessitate the single plane.
If you use a composite spacer like (Canton Racing Products"85-154 Phenolic Carburetor Spacer (For 4150/4160 Holley 4 Hole 1/4"),) it will reduce the heat transferred to the throttle body which equals longevity for electronics.
Thanks buddy, I'm going to try the first tip on my chevelle. I know exactly what you're talking about on the stiff part in the throttle.
I just saw the other day that Holly is now selling and extended lever. $39.00
*literally typing that you should swap the o2 locations to see if the issue is with the sensor or if the bank stays the same. aaaannnnd backspace it all because you already did it lol.. good info. i did the progressive, extension and 4 hole spacer before i even installed it on my car.. I've now remove the progressive and its a whole new car.. i agree, extension > progressive link. i don't have the whistle on a 1/4 phenolic 4 hole spacer.. think it was like $20. i don't have clearance for the big boy spacer.. :/
That Wilson Spacer looks like it is for a common plemun single plane intake. Swap the injectors side to side. If you've ever had injectors cleaned and tested it's common for them to flow differently. With 4 injectors, get them flowed and them match them front and then in the rear, that might balance it out.
Super nice truck!
I really wish Holley would have made an option for two 02 sensors.
Agreed. There are definitely a few things the super sniper doesnt do which is frustrating
My mechanic and speed shop guy has me using a X crossover pipe after my headers! this will balance out differences of each side exhaust as well as the back pressure does on the rest of the exhaust to the tailpipe would!
Both the X or H pipe will help improve performance. Typically, although the difference is somewhat minuscule, the X pipe will favor higher rpm where the exhaust gasses are moving faster and its a smoother freer flowing path. An h pipe is more effective at lower rpm. Both X and H will quiet your overall exhaust tone. If you want a muscle car sound and dont care about the performance benefits some people just run true duals.
I am passing this along to my mechanic. You describe exactly what my problem is. When will you put up the drawing of the leaver you show?
Im glad this helps. I dont have the truck anymore so unfortunately i cannot make a picture. What I can say is you could make a trial one with a few holes maybe 1/2” apart and see what feels best. Make sure with the added lever arm that your throttle opens fully. Fully doesnt always mean 100% tps so check this first
Wow the Wilson spacer is $150 + , the dang thing can whistle all it wants.
Hahaha. There are definitely ways to get rid of the whistle for way less. Hey if it adds 5-10hp though $150 aint so bad
It seems Wilson is making that spacer like a header with that point helping guide the air and creating more velocity
I should do that throttle mod to my moms suburu outback. its so annoying to surge away from a stoplight and her lil dog hates it too as he flys back or falls down frequently!
For the dogs sake I think you owe it to her to give it a try 😆
All very good but you have a long term issue built into your set-up with the location and geometry of your return spring, it should always be inline and opposite to throttle cable line of pull ( or as close as practicable) or you are loading throttle shaft excessively, this is why manufacturers prefer axial type springs wound around shafts
Great info, my truck has a holley sniper and i will never recomend it to anyone...customer service is horrible. had it installed...after the purchase of a new unit...then it started surging or searching really bad...4 months in the shop of a very good speed shop and they got it to run fairly well...it still sounds like its surging/searching randomly...cold starts suck it takes a bit to get it going...letting off the gas and letting it decel it pops until i get to a stop....very dissatisfied....its on a 1979 Ford Bronco 400ci
Great information thanks for that!
AFR readings will probably be different because the sensors and gauges are different. You should expect a difference. The important one is the one the Sniper uses because that's the one that controls fuel delivery.
Agreed. Both are Bosch sensors but the part numbers are different. I recently
Learned a half point AFR isn’t uncommon between AEM wideband kits and the Holley Sniper kit. As you mentioned the Sniper one is still within a safe range. Somewhere between 12.5 - 13 at WOT, 13-14 part throttle, and low to mid 14s cruise
@@truckandroll989 tuning by lambda isnt that exact of a science.
@@DieselRamcharger the Holley computers don’t use lambda.
I'm working on one that has me stumped.
69 Mustang small block runs great drives great snap the throttle in neutral or park and the engine dies 90% of the time, I talked to a Holly rep and he said I have everything adjusted right.
I have a 1971 Camaro SS 396 4 speed. I am looking in to adding the Holley Sniper EFI to my ride. What i have come across in my research is that Dual Plane manifolds don't work well and have fuel distribution issues when using throttle body injection setups. everyone i have talked to tells me to use a single plane manifold like a Edelbrock Torquer or Victor Jr, Holley Strip Dominator or Weiand Team G. I have heard the Torquer II-O big block manifold was not that good and only on par with the Performer RPM out performing it everywhere in the RPM range. fortunately for me it is the only aftermarket intake that will clear the stock hood on my 71 Camaro so for me its a no brainer on which intake to use. but I will look in to running a Victor JR or equivalent on that truck.
I should say that depending upon your build the rpm air gap is usually the best choice. If you have a pretty radical setup that is going to live in the upper rpm range than a single plane is the move but for most street cars a dual plane like the rpm air gap is ideal. What i learned was o2 sensors rarely read identical between the banks. There is always some variation. With that in mind i wouldnt believe everything you read regarding the dual plane being an issue. Mine was tuned and drove around without issue on the dual plane. Just food for thought
Nice info. I'm in your area also. I've got a 79 k10 with full time 4x4. With a 355sbc in it. Have a 454 thinking about putting in. Want to go with holley sniper. Would love to see your truck.
Oh good I'm not the only one with that oil catch can setup at least from what I can see. Pull vacuum through the PVCs into the can? Also I'm definitely going to switch back to original linkage now. If I can find it.
Yea this helps a lot with drivability you will enjoy the difference
You increased your manifold runner length and moved the torque plateau down in the rpm range.
Hi mate, awesome video, spot on with what you are saying,
Have you ever come across problem where the viper carb doesn’t rev down while driving ? ie revs stay up when taking foot off the gas or changing gears ? I have tried adding a stronger return spring , changed nothing except for the stiffness of the throttle,
Be awesome if you could help. Btw I’m an Aussie so sorry if I have messaged you at a bad time.
Thanks mate Ian Westcott
Thats interesting i havent had that. Maybe make sure the base of the TB isn’t too tight or not tightened evenly. Ive heard of that warping the housing which could cause binding in carburetors but its the same idea. Is there anything your throttle linkage could getting caught up on or maybe carpet inside the vehicle near the pedal?
You need a single plane. But a Ported Victor Jr from Wilson manifolds or just a stock Vic Jr. You should pick up some hp and if you lose any tq it won’t be enough to matter with a BBC.
did you even calibrate the widebands? buy a single sensor and swap them to see what 2 match. then keep those 2.
Swapped them. Same results. This isnt super uncommon. Its basically an electronic carburetor so its not going to be a bit different side to side
What is the tolerance of the sensors? IE: if you swamped which one is plugged into the sniper? I assume you would be looking for one then being lean by 1/2 ish instead of rich (or reverse). I am looking at it from when I worked on F/A-18's where you had to have exhaust gas temps and nozzle positions within a certain parameter of each other. Meaning wires, senors, etc. all have a plus or minus of whatever. Even when you buy metal , torque wrenches, etc. all have allowed variations. higher than one % point I would be worried but when your at a 1/2 that could be gauge, length of wire, tolerance in manufacture of the sensor etc.
Like being one degree off on timing, at that point it's about performance then spot on.
This isn't a knock on you, Sir, or intended, but I thought I was watching a video from the 70's but in HD with the hair and mustache along with the old square body. Any case, great info and thank you.
Lol trying to bring it back! Were you surprised when the big block wasn’t in a van lol ;)
Demon carbs sell a bracket extender so you can add the part of the linkage that Holley left off. I do not understand why Holley didn't make the linkage arm to be an exact copy of their carburetors. We are replacing our carbs with this unit, right?
This problem of aggressive throttle engagement on the sniper is worse on a C10 67-68 throttle pedal with the solid steel bar. We are upgrading to the cable system from Lokar which seems like what you have there. You may mention or show your pedal throttle assembly setup. AND,,, did you lose any travel by adding the lever length on the carb linkage? Still get full throttle? I know with that Lokar you can adjust travel and curious to see where that limits out.
You are correct that with this adjustment you lose a little bit of travel. I believe I was still pretty close to 100% wide-open throttle but I’m positive that my TPS sensor did not show 100%. It was high 90s. Sometimes you can gain a but back by removing all of the cable slack so touching the gas gives immediate response
I'd be curious to see it on a chassis dyno with both of those spacers and see how it affects power on that RPM air gap intake.
Not necessary. Mine works great just like it is. No throttling issues what so ever. I don't understand people complaining.
Every setup is a bit different. Looks like you have a 540 so a single Holley Sniper might be a bit undersized in terms of cfm and possibly masking the effects others are seeing. Also in a stick shift car any throttle tip in issues will be more noticeable. Either way thanks for watching and nice Chevelle!
If you added the spacer first,would the throttle bracket mod been necessary?
Yes. If i understand you correctly you are asking whether the spacer affects the geometry of the linkage which it does not. Both serve separate purposes and solve separate issues. Thanks for watching!
@@truckandroll989 hum.....interesting...so by raising the carb does not raise the throttle cable?
@@rksanders13 it does but its not the cable itself thats your issue its the distance between the center pivot point of the throttle linkage and the stock point where it connects. By moving it up further you get more leverage and thus require less force to open the blades
@@rksanders13 - Adding a spacer moves the entire TB/bracket assembly up. The only thing that might change is that you need to get a longer throttle cable, depending on how talk your spacer is.
Nice advice
Been watching several of these, Also looking at the Sniper system possibly for my 350 TBI suburban. It runs super well, just not as powerful as I"d maybe like, and also looking for MPG gains (if that's a reasonable expectation)? Do you think introducing a new variable in like the Sniper system is wise? Worth the expense and reliable after maybe some minimal finicking? Would I get solid benefits out of it without other mods?
Id say if you already have TBI leave it. If you are convinced you want an improved id try and do like a multiport EFI on your 5.7. I have a 5.0 TBI on my 95 Sierra and got it run ing a lot better after tuneup, new fuel filter, and then I took apart the TBI and cleaned it super well.
This issue is caused by the plenum divider right? The Weiand 8019 is a dual plane but with an open plenum which allows more of a mix among each side.
My Holley sniper master kit makes a lean spike at idle follower immediately by a sucking / asthma inhaler noise at 170 degrees . Please help
Does your TPS hang on 1% with the extension? Mine does, but I'm curious if yours does because you have more slack than me in my cable. I think my cable is hanging in that plastic sheath on the throttle bracket.
Love your solution. Do you notice any issues because you've decreased the travel in your linkage by using the lever?
So I will say that at WOT the TPS wasnt showing 100% (somewhere in the mid 90s). However i never verified before but I suspect it was never fully 100%. I suspect the latter could be corrected by adjusting the throttle
Cable itself
mill the divider down in the center of your intake. this will solve all the issues you are having.
Hey.. did you happen to do any more to the sniper? I saw the vintage Utah plates on the truck and wondering where you are and who the tuner is in Utah. I live in Riverton and need help tuning. Thanks
You want to talk to Heath Besner at Premier Performance he tuned it. Truck is now in Colorado with the new owner :)
After looking for a kickdown bracket for an electric kickdown switch on turbo 400 trans I found nothing available.Now the question is can I use the nitrous trigger on the sniper efi to activate my kickdown switch because it uses the tps to activate?I'm planning on gray#6 wire to#85 terminal on relay
He I have a ? For you have you been having any issues with idle control? My idle goes high every time I come to a stop. I have an 350 with th350 automatic in my square body. Not sure if it’s related to the transmission + choppy cam and pore vacuum or not. But I noticed you did something deferent with your vacuum.
What brand and model numbers are you using? It appears you’re using factory hydraulic clutch set up. I have clearance issues with my factory clutch slave cylinder.
Did you have to adjust the target rpm lower after installing extension lever ? My car idles higher (1100 rpm ) now than it did with the snappy pedal without the extender (800 rpm )
Or will the sniper self tune and find the target rpm again eventually?.
@@spades262 it has been a while but i would imagine if you can slide the new arm into place of the stock one and it doesnt move the throttle blades there should be no change and you adjust it as you would stock. I think idle rpm is set with the screw. Also there were settings in the software for linear vs progressive throttle if i remember correctly.
Holley really screwed up with the linkage. Why did they feel it was needed to redesign the throttle linkage?! Holley carbs have been around since the 50s, why not stay with what works? Is it to force the buyer to purchase linkage kits or extension?
I made my throttle linkage extension after a couple weeks of driving with the touchy throttle.
From what I have seen they tried to keep it compact so it would not hit certain air cleaners. If you buy the aftermarket extensions it tells you to check clearance or buy an air cleaner extension. In some cases an extension may cause hood clearance issues.
Such a good fix that holley sells one now 😂
Damn Im going to need to snag some royalties lol
@@truckandroll989 we picked up a sniper kit for our 65 c10 and they sold us a "throttle adapter" that looked and fit just like your mod.
How was the iac signal with that spacer. I have had a couple cars now one with that spacer and one with a afr intake that blocks the iac passage quite a bit. You have to command a lot more iac on startup
Thats interesting. I didn’t notice any adverse issues with IAC. Full disclosure it was eventually dyno tuned so they could of played with it but it didnt act weird beforehand. The spacer was also added later
That was a great video . What size is your engine ..? I'm thinking of putting a efi on my 454 it's a mild engine 530 hp. What do you reckon?
Thank you. Yes it should work fine. Mine is a mild 454. Made 435rwhp so about 510/515hp motor. Efi should be fine. Keep an eye on the fuel pump you choose. The base kit fuel pump is right at its limit around 550
@@truckandroll989 yeah was think if getting the next one up. How much are those spaces?
The spacers arent cheap but if you are only after the whistling noise fix you can get a normal thin four hole spacer. The tapered bore 4 holes from Wilson racing are $100+
@@truckandroll989 how do you know what size spacer to pick .?
@@thef71 so if its just noise you want to fix then super thin and cheap 4 hole is fine. However if you thinking your engine may want more plenum volume than a thicker spacer can certainly pick up horsepower. In that case 1” is a safe bet. They typically make them up
To 2” but more isnt always better. 1” would
Be my choice not knowing anything more.
Do you have a video covering your pcv setup, I see you have a catch can and would like to do something similar on the project I'm building?
So it is pretty simple. Breather on one side (you could use a baby filter too but more mess). On the other side you have a pcv valve and catch can. Pcv is mounted to the valve cover, to catch can, back to a source of full manifold vacuum (i.e. anywhere beneath the throttle). Sorry truck is sold. You may be able to search my channel and see more footage of the setup.
gday bro great info man
i’ve installed xflow sniper on my 39 ford deluxe coupe convertible im running a 272 yblock with alloy duel plane manifold.
i think the linkage idea is great so ill give that a go as it is terrible for smooth take off but its the oxygen sensor im most interested in .how and were did you connect to the sniper i can find any info for additional oxygen sensor.
trying to iron out any issues b4 i fit my super charger up. thanks in advance for your help troy
Troy, the additional oxygen sensor was a standalone that I bought off of Amazon. Its the standard AEM wideband and is hooked to a separate gauge. Unfortunately you cannot wire in a second wideband to the Holley sniper so that is just for my own monitoring purposes and does not affect the tune. My understanding is that more sophisticated Holley EFI products allow for dual oxygen sensors.
gday again just wanting to know what your thoughts are with the dual plane manifold and removing the centre all the way down to the first plane for Holly sniper xflow
many mixed opinions
@@troytipton9881 so a lot of people will talk smack on the dual plane. Honestly for most applications it is fine out of the box. If you arent worried about maximum power I think an out of the box dual plane like an edelbrock performer air gap would be great. I recall your motor was a bit more unique so it is harder to say. Unless you have a milling machine I would just run the manifold as is.
Dude I like you and I’m getting a Sniper that can work with boost
But you’ve got to realize there are
+\- tolerances for everything mechanical so your sensors reading slightly different is meaningless
Yea for sure. Its the inner engineer in me that would like to see them read more consistently between the cylinder banks but i agree. Thanks for watching
Hello. Do I have to run a return line to the gas tank or can I tap into the supply gas line. What would be the difference.
I would run a return line. Its honestly not that hard. A short circuited return into the supply might unnecessarily heat the fuel
Is there any benefit to installing a cold air intake to the Holley Super Sniper EFI? i haven't seen any out there for this setup.
I mean most modern cars seem to have evolved to a “cold air intake” style. So probably yes but maybe not worth the effort
Nice video how did you add your second o2 sensor
The Sniper (at least when I made this) wont accept a second O2 input. You just install a standalone second O2 and use it for tuning/diagnostics of the other bank
Whats the difference between sniper and super sniper! Please ! I have a 454 with mild cam just bought and been rebuild
Super Sniper will allow for boost. Sounds like you just need the Sniper
I have a sniper and the voltage on the screen keep read sometimes in the 11s is that normal. I put a high output alternator and it's still dropping.
That is not normal. The sniper itself shouod not draw too many amps. If your alternator is new make sure its wired correctly and any sort of voltage regulator is functioning properly. Some alternators dont start to charge until a certain rpm. Take a look at that too.
Where is the rear bumper on that truck from? I’m looking for a rear step bumper like that to replace a rusty one on my k20
You aren’t the first person to ask. I’m honestly not sure. This truck was initially a base model six cylinder it appears to be just some sort of work truck bumper sorry
Try a single plane intake and your O2s should see the same right?
Eh its possible it could help but its also possible some cylinders are going to run different. The downsides of TBI
this dude looks like Napoleon's uncle.
Some say you look a lot like Joey from friends
While not a phenolic spacer did it help in cooling the throttle body ???
Its possible it could just from spacing it up higher but aluminum is a good conductor so probably not by much.
1" open spacer won't even out the AFR?
So it has a spacer in it but that didnt seem to help. If anything that could affect power by effectively tweaking runner length/volume but it shouldn’t drastically affect afr
How are you able to use two o2 sensors my sniper only has a connection for one
So one o2 feeds the holley sniper whereas another feeds a readout on a standalone sensor. So im able to see both o2 readings but my holley can only control off of 1.
Did you post dimensions for that little bracket?
I did not sorry.
As someone new to the Holley efi what r somethings u could tell me to be aware of or things I should do
@@Kidchevy88 id say the biggest improvement/thing you should do (if you dont have the new holley sniper) is the modification I mention to improve throttle feel. Beyond that keep an eye on sensors. I had a new coolant temp sensor fail which makes vehicle run super rich/basically undrivable. Also, if you want the most out of your sniper, even though they are self learning, plan a dyno session with a reputable tuner and he/she can dial it in faster/better.
@@truckandroll989 thank u really appreciate it
@@Kidchevy88 i appreciate you watching/supporting my channel :)
@@truckandroll989 no problem I just started my channel I’ll be posting more about my experience with the set up it’s in a 1986 Monte Carlo ss
Did you need the hyperspark ignition box
Definitely not a requirement but it really allows you or the tuner to make timing infinitely more adjustable then you could with a regular HEI.
Where did you get your throttle cable bracket?
I believe it was ordered off of Holleys website. If you call them they can help give you the part number.
I noticed a Utah plate. Where you at??
Im up near SLC
@@truckandroll989 I’m down by Orderville. I’ve been fighting some leaning issues on my setup. I’m going to try what you did and see that’ll clear some of that up
Overall, do you recommend Holley sniper?
So IF your goal is maximum performance and tunability than no Id say find a manifold which supports multi port EFI. If carburetors are a headache/difficult to tune then yes the sniper can be a good option. Ive had really good results with buying a wideband o2 sensor, tuning kit, and Edelbrock Performer style carbs for street cars. They typically start every time and drive well.
@@truckandroll989 I’m just surprised they don’t monitor both banks
@@tyferguson564 agreed. Its honestly an “entry level efi” setup. Im running a Edelbrock AVS2 on my Mercury now and it performs just as well without any of the headaches for a lot less money
@@truckandroll989 yea that’s what I’m running on my c10, I just wanted to do efi.. ima probably just go LS with the factory computer
So disappointed in my sniper...idle hunting all the time...cooler days it burps and pops until warmed up decelerating it pops and just sounds horrible
How are your other gauges reading? Any chance it could be a bad sensor causing this? I highly recommend getting it dyno tuned. The system can work well if properly tuned
I love my Sniper on my 408 Dart. I had similar problems and 2 shops later found out that my install of my 02 sensor leaked
You Should have patented this before Holley starting to make this exact part. Orrrr you just copied them. Lol either way I'm gonna try to make something like you did. Lol
Get a single plane manifold.
Dudes hair looks like he just rolled out of bed.
Out of bed and right into my big block manual C10. It is amazing how many comments I get from men about my looks 🤣
@@truckandroll989 I guess I’m Jealous about the hair but not the truck though 🤣🤣😝
@@thechestnutking736 lol stern but fair
150 for a spacer is ridiculous
Ill agree the price is steep. What sold me is how well it performed on Engine Masters the dyno. Youd be hard pressed to find another $150 “mod” that picks up noticeable power
It seems that the cheap cast aluminum spacers could be prone to vacuum leaks and rough appearance, and the cheap plastic ones could melt. Wilson makes a 1-inch spacer for $90-100, and FAST has a polished billet (open) spacer for $125. If you think that's a lot, Holley wants $250 for their spacers. Talk about absurd pricing...
I do not see a super sniper
Super Sniper 1250 its there trust me 😎
"Less pedal effort" this dude weak af.
Dude buy a modern car with electronic start so u dont break your fingers. Turning the ignition key is dangerous.
@@apocolypse11 well well well if it isn’t the neighborhood troll. Its not about not being able to press the pedal its about being able to modulate the gas. Think of driving a stick shift car where the throttle feels like its stuck closed. Not fun for you or the passengers. Anyways thanks for watching and either way i appreciate the comments ;)
I don’t mean to be rude but I don’t get why people buy these. It’s just a carburetor, you can get a really nice carb and research how to tune it for far cheaper. It’s flat out a waste of money to me
is there any way I can write you on private? I have some question about EFI system...thank you
If you dont mind replying here maybe your question is one that could help others. I will do my best to answer. Otherwise just DM me on Instagram @truckandroll989
@@truckandroll989 Ok I will do it here, So I am in the process of changing my carb system to EFI one, from top to bottom ( in tank electric pump fuel lines etc ) and I started to do some research about the intake manifold ( I run a edelbrock performer RPM dual plane type ) and I saw this video, channel name: Hagerty , video name: Is it worth it? Replacing your carburetor with a Holley Sniper EFI | Hagerty DIY ( to make it easy, run the video from 5:00 to 6:00 ) this guy ( David ) talked with Holley tech and they asked for a single plane intake and I almost cut mine to create this single plane intake, but then I saw your video and I was surprised, you also talked with Holley tech department and they recommended the spacer with 4 " hole " based on your video you also run a edelbrock intake, RPM Air-Gap I guess, also a dual plane intake...and now I'm totally confused...what do we exactly need? how come Holly tech department recommend exactly the opposite...I also have ( same like you ) the Wilson spacer :) and I want to keep it :) . thank you...
@@chevroletchevelle7161 I think the consensus is for “most” street motors a quality dual plane will provide the best balance of power and torque in a useable rpm range and likely aligns with the type of customer who is considering a TBI style EFI system. Some folks believe you get a stronger signal from a single plane and the fuel distribution will be better. Is that true? Maybe yes slightly but does it likely offset the power lost in the rpm ranges you are driving most in? Probably not. Pick either intake and you will be fine. Id be more worried about selecting an intake which better compliments my driving style, cam choice, and desired rpm rangr
We have sold these and the progressive linkages for years. www.efisystempro.com/sniper-efi-throttle-extension-lever-20-16
My Holley sniper master kit makes a lean spike at idle follower immediately by a sucking / asthma inhaler noise at 170 degrees . Please help
Lean spike off idle sounds like it needs more accelerator enrichment. Those noises are somewhat normal im sorry.