Love how detailed all your videos are. I am not a tech at all, but very interested in electronics. All of the extra info you mention on basically everything you do is why I watch. Great job man!
Don't stress or get too bogged down, just make a video when you can, and take off the pressure! They are time consuming and not always easy to make, so take it easy. The video's are fine and enjoyable, just make it easier on yourself.
I think these videos do the trick really - they show he's a decent straight up guy, knows his onions and goes the extra mile to do the best job for the client. As a promotional tool it's gold dust. Let's put it this way - if I was ever passing his way I would definitely pay a visit, and if I had bags of cash I'd commission a custom Brads Champion amp. But these videos also provide a great role model for the next generation of techs out there. As for the frequency of them and production values - life's too short. I like the randomness and general fook RUclips attitude. Top stuff!
Thanks mate, that's a pretty touching message there! If I feel like someone gets it, it makes it more exciting and makes me more likely to make better stuff!
Nice one , Brad!!! I have an original Mackie 1604 from the early 90s (back when they were made in the USA). I don't really use it any more, but can't let it go.
Great video, not seen the inside of one of these..Just so much info and tech explained on soldering etc..Top job, entertaining and learning curve for sure..Stay safe..Ed..uk..😀
We bought 3 mackie fx pro 12 mixing tables and within the year all 3 tables were broken. on all power supplies the schottky diodes of the 15v rail are broken. I think the problem is the cooling, I moved the new diodes an inch from the PCB for better cooling. So far no problems with the power supplies.
To add to Brad's comments at the end of the video: if your going to attempt your own repairs, it is important to realize when you've reached the end of your knowledge base and skill set, and/or don't have the necessary tools and parts to effect a repair neatly and effectively. Don't make an additional mess for the next technician to deal with! And with respect to the ubiquitous switching power supplies seen in so much modern equipment, the capacitors used are often garbage and fail prematurely due to high-frequency ripple currents.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , And one more comment to the people who attempt to fix their own devices: use the correct screwdriver or bit type for fucks' sake! If your Phillips screwdriver doesn't seem to fit the screws snugly, then try another one that isn't worn or rounded off; and if that one doesn't work any better, then perhaps you have a Pozidrive screw or a JIS Japanese Industrial Standard (Philips variants). Learn to recognize the difference and get the right bit to fit those. If it's an Allen or hex socket screw it could be SAE/Imperial or it could be Metric, so please make sure you find the right one that fits snuggly. It's always best to break the screws free by hand first, before pulling out the cordless screwdriver. It's also smart to label the screw holes with a piece of tape that you can write on and/or take pictures as you remove them ---- Some devices may use a combination of nation of coarse thread self tapping screws and finely threaded machine screws (also known as bolts) ---- and segregate the screws by type into an ice cube tray or similar so that you can put them all back in the correct place in the correct order when you're done. Watch out for screws that might be a little shorter or longer than the others, even though they have the same head and thread type. Those might have been selected so that they don't hit something carrying electricity when they protrude through to the inside of the chassis. Don't overtighten the screws with the cordless when you put them back either, otherwise you will end up paying the technician for his extra time to get it all apart again if your initial attempts at repair were not successful.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , There's no shame in admitting that you don't know enough about the subject at hand and should refer to someone who does.. All learning begins with a question anyway. There's lots of shit I don't know or don't know enough about to come anywhere near to calling myself an expert. Back in the days when most equipment was transitioning from tubes to solid state, Transistorized equipment started coming with a warning label on the back that said " no user serviceable parts inside; refer to qualified servicing personnel". I really would like to get that on a T-shirt; I'm sure my doctors and surgeons would get a kick out of it!
Hi Brad. I have a ProFx8 V1 and have 3 out of 4 mic inputs that require almost full gain to get any sound (From an SM58). The 3/4 inputs gives me good sound from about 12 o'clock. The rest of the mixer seems to work perfectly. I noticed Mackie is not sharing any schematic info on this one. Any Thoughts
Excellent video!👍 Was it an inrush current peak that probably killed the diode because there seemed to be some snubber components in parallel with it? I would have replaced it with a 1500V 10A+ diode to make sure that next time it is some other component that fails. 🤣 BTW I almost never bother to remove flux after soldering because usually the flux doesn't seem to cause any troubles whatsoever. For example the alledged risk of flux causing corrosive damage to components or PCBs seems pretty low because I have several PCBs and devices and circuits which I have built or repaired using flux solder several decades ago and the flux of multi core flux solder I have used seems on the contrary to have protected metals from corrosion. 😁 If the resistance of flux residue is especially in moist conditions not infinite, it seems to cause problems only if there are very short distances and high voltages between soldered points or in circuits where 1uA leak is a big deal.
Generally, flux residue isn't a major problem on solid state equipment, but over the years I have worked on several untouched solid state receivers that drew excess current and acted as if they had a shorted output transistor, and the fault disappeared once I scraped away the old brown flux from in between all the output-transistor leaded solder connections. Although I couldn't actually see it underneath the flux, the problem was likely due to a solder whisker or solder ball underneath that flux, that either grew over the years, or was there when the unit was manufactured but shifted position as flux cooked out of the solder joints over the years ---- the space between the leads and solder pools at the outputs usually has gobs of crusty red-brown flux ---- and ultimately caused a short. Or perhaps high humidity caused an arc through or underneath that flux, making a conductive path. Tube type equipment running at high voltages is a whole 'nother story anyway; excess flux there can definitely become a path for electrical leakage, or it can attract and hold moisture and/or dust that becomes a conductive path for arcing.
@@goodun2974 If the soldered area and soldering iron has been clean and at proper temperature, the flux residue is usually very transparent and clear. If the iron has been dirty, or soldered parts or PCB are dirty or dusty or covered with even a small amount of metal particles or carbon residues etc. then of course there will be a risk of severe leak currents or even arcing in or under flux residue. But a clean, uncontaminated of conducting particles or chemicals or moisture, residue of flux is quite a good insulator at moderate voltages AFAIK. Of course there could be differences in fluxes and their purity as well, like there are differences in mineral waters, guitar strings or insulating materials etc.
@@jutukka , I mostly repair vintage stereo equipment from the seventies and eighties, and on almost all of them, when you open them up you will find a crust of brownish-red crumbly rosin in between the solder joints to the leads of the output transistors. The boards were heavily cleaned after manufacturer and typically there's almost no rosin residue anywhere else, but on really large solder joints like where the filter caps are soldered to a ground plane, and especially the soldered leads of the output transistors, there will be a whole bunch of dried up rosin. The only thing that that could explain this is that there must be rosin in the solder joint that cooks its way out over the years, from the heat of operating the output stage.
@@goodun2974 Well, that's true. Metal surfaces, as shiny and polished they seem to be, nearly always are porous. For example chromed steel bumpers of cars must be waxed or lacquered etc. to prevent them from absorbing moisture and start to corrode inside. And the inside surface of a barrel of an unused gun, as shiny it seems to be, is porous and absorbs both primer and gun powder residues which can corrode it without proper cleaning by using proper chemicals (which are not always solvents or oils as many people think, but can be soap and water instead. Chemical and electric phenomenons are sometimes very strange, like for example tin whiskers are.
@@jutukka , I know that for some military purposes they consider to be a crimp, properly done, to essentially be a cold weld where the metals are smushed together at the molecular level and the connection is therefore more impervious to gas or liquid ingress then soldering would be.
just got similar issue today on my proFX10 here i was hoping i could just buy a new power supply :'( dont feel like opening it up ill just buy a tascam 12 and be done with it
One diode, bro. Find a trusted local tech that can diagnose it themselves, though. Techs don't like being told by a customer what the problem is when they don't know enough to fix it themselves.
Love how detailed all your videos are. I am not a tech at all, but very interested in electronics. All of the extra info you mention on basically everything you do is why I watch. Great job man!
Thanks mate, it means a lot.
Sometimes I feel like I'm rambling, but I try to think of the camera as a bunch of mates at the pub.
Don't stress or get too bogged down, just make a video when you can, and take off the pressure!
They are time consuming and not always easy to make, so take it easy.
The video's are fine and enjoyable, just make it easier on yourself.
I think these videos do the trick really - they show he's a decent straight up guy, knows his onions and goes the extra mile to do the best job for the client. As a promotional tool it's gold dust. Let's put it this way - if I was ever passing his way I would definitely pay a visit, and if I had bags of cash I'd commission a custom Brads Champion amp. But these videos also provide a great role model for the next generation of techs out there. As for the frequency of them and production values - life's too short. I like the randomness and general fook RUclips attitude. Top stuff!
Thanks mate, that's a pretty touching message there!
If I feel like someone gets it, it makes it more exciting and makes me more likely to make better stuff!
Nice one , Brad!!!
I have an original Mackie 1604 from the early 90s (back when they were made in the USA). I don't really use it any more, but can't let it go.
Great video, Brad. Been loving the live streams lately too. Thanks!
Glad you like them! I'll try to keep them coming.
Great video, not seen the inside of one of these..Just so much info and tech explained on soldering etc..Top job, entertaining and learning curve for sure..Stay safe..Ed..uk..😀
Thanks Brad! saved my ar$e with this video. really thorough, well explained and entertaining to boot!
Happy to help, mate.
But to be honest, I often have to re-watch my own videos to remember what I even did!
"A bee's dick of current"! Mate - I nearly choked on my cup of tea with that one ;-)
We bought 3 mackie fx pro 12 mixing tables and within the year all 3 tables were broken. on all power supplies the schottky diodes of the 15v rail are broken. I think the problem is the cooling, I moved the new diodes an inch from the PCB for better cooling. So far no problems with the power supplies.
Good work, mate! Upping the power rating helps, too.
Never think of diodes as fuses, as they almost always fail short circuit.
To add to Brad's comments at the end of the video: if your going to attempt your own repairs, it is important to realize when you've reached the end of your knowledge base and skill set, and/or don't have the necessary tools and parts to effect a repair neatly and effectively. Don't make an additional mess for the next technician to deal with! And with respect to the ubiquitous switching power supplies seen in so much modern equipment, the capacitors used are often garbage and fail prematurely due to high-frequency ripple currents.
You know it, mate!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , And one more comment to the people who attempt to fix their own devices: use the correct screwdriver or bit type for fucks' sake! If your Phillips screwdriver doesn't seem to fit the screws snugly, then try another one that isn't worn or rounded off; and if that one doesn't work any better, then perhaps you have a Pozidrive screw or a JIS Japanese Industrial Standard (Philips variants). Learn to recognize the difference and get the right bit to fit those. If it's an Allen or hex socket screw it could be SAE/Imperial or it could be Metric, so please make sure you find the right one that fits snuggly. It's always best to break the screws free by hand first, before pulling out the cordless screwdriver. It's also smart to label the screw holes with a piece of tape that you can write on and/or take pictures as you remove them ---- Some devices may use a combination of nation of coarse thread self tapping screws and finely threaded machine screws (also known as bolts) ---- and segregate the screws by type into an ice cube tray or similar so that you can put them all back in the correct place in the correct order when you're done. Watch out for screws that might be a little shorter or longer than the others, even though they have the same head and thread type. Those might have been selected so that they don't hit something carrying electricity when they protrude through to the inside of the chassis. Don't overtighten the screws with the cordless when you put them back either, otherwise you will end up paying the technician for his extra time to get it all apart again if your initial attempts at repair were not successful.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , There's no shame in admitting that you don't know enough about the subject at hand and should refer to someone who does.. All learning begins with a question anyway. There's lots of shit I don't know or don't know enough about to come anywhere near to calling myself an expert. Back in the days when most equipment was transitioning from tubes to solid state, Transistorized equipment started coming with a warning label on the back that said " no user serviceable parts inside; refer to qualified servicing personnel". I really would like to get that on a T-shirt; I'm sure my doctors and surgeons would get a kick out of it!
Thanks, that's exactly what my mixer does as a symptom. Will troubleshoot soon.
Hi Brad. I have a ProFx8 V1 and have 3 out of 4 mic inputs that require almost full gain to get any sound (From an SM58). The 3/4 inputs gives me good sound from about 12 o'clock. The rest of the mixer seems to work perfectly. I noticed Mackie is not sharing any schematic info on this one. Any Thoughts
Shoot me a message here, mate: www.bradsguitargarage.com.au/form/contact-us/
Excellent video!👍
Was it an inrush current peak that probably killed the diode because there seemed to be some snubber components in parallel with it?
I would have replaced it with a 1500V 10A+ diode to make sure that next time it is some other component that fails. 🤣
BTW I almost never bother to remove flux after soldering because usually the flux doesn't seem to cause any troubles whatsoever. For example the alledged risk of flux causing corrosive damage to components or PCBs seems pretty low because I have several PCBs and devices and circuits which I have built or repaired using flux solder several decades ago and the flux of multi core flux solder I have used seems on the contrary to have protected metals from corrosion. 😁
If the resistance of flux residue is especially in moist conditions not infinite, it seems to cause problems only if there are very short distances and high voltages between soldered points or in circuits where 1uA leak is a big deal.
Generally, flux residue isn't a major problem on solid state equipment, but over the years I have worked on several untouched solid state receivers that drew excess current and acted as if they had a shorted output transistor, and the fault disappeared once I scraped away the old brown flux from in between all the output-transistor leaded solder connections. Although I couldn't actually see it underneath the flux, the problem was likely due to a solder whisker or solder ball underneath that flux, that either grew over the years, or was there when the unit was manufactured but shifted position as flux cooked out of the solder joints over the years ---- the space between the leads and solder pools at the outputs usually has gobs of crusty red-brown flux ---- and ultimately caused a short. Or perhaps high humidity caused an arc through or underneath that flux, making a conductive path.
Tube type equipment running at high voltages is a whole 'nother story anyway; excess flux there can definitely become a path for electrical leakage, or it can attract and hold moisture and/or dust that becomes a conductive path for arcing.
@@goodun2974 If the soldered area and soldering iron has been clean and at proper temperature, the flux residue is usually very transparent and clear. If the iron has been dirty, or soldered parts or PCB are dirty or dusty or covered with even a small amount of metal particles or carbon residues etc. then of course there will be a risk of severe leak currents or even arcing in or under flux residue. But a clean, uncontaminated of conducting particles or chemicals or moisture, residue of flux is quite a good insulator at moderate voltages AFAIK. Of course there could be differences in fluxes and their purity as well, like there are differences in mineral waters, guitar strings or insulating materials etc.
@@jutukka , I mostly repair vintage stereo equipment from the seventies and eighties, and on almost all of them, when you open them up you will find a crust of brownish-red crumbly rosin in between the solder joints to the leads of the output transistors. The boards were heavily cleaned after manufacturer and typically there's almost no rosin residue anywhere else, but on really large solder joints like where the filter caps are soldered to a ground plane, and especially the soldered leads of the output transistors, there will be a whole bunch of dried up rosin. The only thing that that could explain this is that there must be rosin in the solder joint that cooks its way out over the years, from the heat of operating the output stage.
@@goodun2974 Well, that's true. Metal surfaces, as shiny and polished they seem to be, nearly always are porous. For example chromed steel bumpers of cars must be waxed or lacquered etc. to prevent them from absorbing moisture and start to corrode inside. And the inside surface of a barrel of an unused gun, as shiny it seems to be, is porous and absorbs both primer and gun powder residues which can corrode it without proper cleaning by using proper chemicals (which are not always solvents or oils as many people think, but can be soap and water instead. Chemical and electric phenomenons are sometimes very strange, like for example tin whiskers are.
@@jutukka , I know that for some military purposes they consider to be a crimp, properly done, to essentially be a cold weld where the metals are smushed together at the molecular level and the connection is therefore more impervious to gas or liquid ingress then soldering would be.
Thanks mate
Any time!
Why is the Mackie profx16 powered light blinking
Because it's broken.
What's the make/model on that desoldering gun? I need one of those 😂
That's a 6010-0106-P1 Pace SensaTemp® SX-100 Handpiece powered by a Pace MBR power / vacuum pump unit.
just got similar issue today on my proFX10 here i was hoping i could just buy a new power supply :'( dont feel like opening it up ill just buy a tascam 12 and be done with it
One diode, bro.
Find a trusted local tech that can diagnose it themselves, though.
Techs don't like being told by a customer what the problem is when they don't know enough to fix it themselves.
You are zooming in/out of the schematic like you are on speed!
Great video, please get a pen and put an L on the 'soder' braid. thanks 🙂
Look up the pronunciation of solder in the Oxford English Dictionary: "sodder" and "soul-der" are both listed as valid pronunciations.
Potato potato, eh.
Any attention I give pronunciation is for entertainment purposes only.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Keep making the content, I never knew watching amp/hifi repairs was so entertaining.
Please give me the mixer source drawing. Thank you