You really should consider using a jack to get under the car. If you notice the drain plug is at the front of the pan. You need to be able to lower the car back down to get all the oil out. There is probably a half quart or more that doesn’t drain when you are using the ramps. Just a suggestion.
I would not stretch oil change intervals on the ecoboost engines. Oil dilution is a big issue with some unburned fuel mixing in the crankcase. Use a synthetic oil and change every 5 k.
Factory recommended is 10k. I use Amsoil that is good for 25k. I then do a filter change every 12.5k and top off the oil. If an excessive amount of fuel is getting in that should be checked out. Could be excessive wear on the rings or cylinder walls.
I agree that the oil should be changed at least every 5000 mi or 8000 km in my case. No oil is good for 25000 mi especially in an EcoBoost engine. Oil is cheap, engine's aren't.
thanks for this video I changed the oil in my new fusion had to drop the arrow pan and need a video for that about to change in my 2020 explore for the first time today and I couldn't find a video just happens i checked 1 more time and found you thanks again.
Good video. I just put this same oil, Amsoil 5w30 ss in my 21 Explorer Timberline. I did Amsoil in the transfercase, front/rear diffs as well. Good stuff
Another thought on those oil filters that just won't come off...buy the oil filter vise grips! They work awesome and have really saved me from some nightmare scenarios. BTW "silky smooth" has been one of my favorite "pick-up" lines...
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it. This being a 2wd, there is no ptu. Transmission service has yet to happen you but will probably get done at the dealer. I don’t have the proper equipment to do it the right way.
Common sense would tell me that if the dealer recommends 10k then that is plenty conservative. They have to take into account the best and worst cases of driving styles when setting the standards. I also believe in the research and data in the oil I use. It is superior to the dealer brand so I will follow its guidelines as well. Which is well over 10k. My thoughts on the oil industry in general are that you might not always just follow what a company says when they are the ones making more money if you do. Look at independent research.
I agree, with oil and filters being so cheap there is no excuse not to change the oil every 5,000 miles. For a turbocharged motor some may wanna go 3,000. Twin turbos are really hot and very hard on oil.
@@LA_Commander that’s totally fine if you want to change it more often than recommended. I would warn against cheap oil and filters though. There are a lot of brands that you get what you pay for. I always believed that a few extra dollars on a quality filter and oil could prevent failures and a 10k motor replacement bill. I have never thought of maintenance to be the place to save money. That’s why I pay the extra for the Amsoil. It’s one of the top brands available. Before I went synthetic I used Rotella and Wix.
@@micalstephenson those are good points. And yes, even quality oils and filters are cheap when you consider how much you pay for your car. Amsoil is a very good product. I would never use the very cheapest oil and filter I could find. I prefer to use wix filters and either Shell Rotella T6 or Penzoil platinum or Mobil1. But I don't do the super extended oil changes. I could get away with it since my motors are all naturally aspirated, but if I had a turbo I would for sure change it very often. I go every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and both my cars have over 250,000 miles and no issues. Original motor, trans, and rear end. Blackstone labs even used the words "nearly flawless" on the most recent oil sample.
2020 Ford Explorer XLT Engine 2.3-liter EcoBoost 5.2 Quarts of oil SAE 5W-30 synthelic blend 1 - 5 quart 1 x 1 quart if you can find 15 mm oil plug 5.5mm & 7mm to remove cover Supertech oil filter ST3614 Supertech air filter 1250
Very helpful base/xlt 2.3L explorer 2020 oil change video! First seen about this model in RUclips! Btw, my 2.3L xlt 2020 has these 2-3 seconds sound when opening any of the doors. The car was shutdown during the time so thought it is reset sound but can't think of anything to reset? Any share?
The sounds you hear are the car getting ready to start. When your key fob is close enough or a door is opened, the car begins a start up procedure assuming that you are about to drive it. Nothing to worry about.
@@micalstephenson Lol my wife say it's transforming i went from a 1997 Explore V6 to this 2020 2.3L had no ideal what the sound was 234k on my old Explorer. Sounds to me like it's breathing.
This filter isn’t bad, but for some of those hard to reach ones you can use a gallon ziplock bag over it to catch the oil. Great video and was this the 2.3 or 3.0 Engine?
Thank you for the tip. I may steal that from you. I normally just make a huge mess and complain about ruining my driveway and shirt. I’m trying to get better about it though. This was the 2.3L
Talk about a mess, my ram 1500 is absolutely the worst oil change I've ever had to do. The filter is right on top of the steering rack...bag trick works pretty well thou. I'm going to do the Explorer today, hoping it goes well. I'm kind of surprised they aren't doing the cartridge style. Lots of room in the engine bay..
I have a base 2.3 Ford Explorer 2020 RWD put 10,000 miles on it just went to go see what they would offer me so may,2021 my trade in was worth 30,200$ I was thinking about trading it in because worried of the longevity of these 10 speed transmissions
The trans has already done a few weird things for us. Somewhat of a delay when changing direction. I have always attributed it to having too many electronics instead of a lever to shift. But it also has made a chattering noise a few times. It’s been checked out by the dealer and they say it’s all good but I’m not convinced.
@@Anon1mous I've alwys used Archoil ar6200 and Amsoil PI in my 2019 2.7 F150 and in my 21 Explorer 2.3 . I do realize the 2.3 has no port injection like the 2.7. But the Amsoil 5w30 ss has the Honda turbo heat rating which is excellent
Hey, where are your safety glasses mister? And tell your neighbor to shut that damned mower off! LOL. Great vid! I have the 2021 Timberline and I'm about to start doing my own oil changes. That shield looks like a pain in the a$$ too! Take care!
Safety glasses? Never met her. He does like to work outside when I’m filming. I’m always fighting that. Thank you for watching and the comment. Good luck with yours! It’s not that bad.
Nice video. I like your made tool. I always use a "cat claw" tool for those plastic tabs. Also they are cheap online. My manual says to use 5w30 BLENDED oil. I buy the Motorcraft version from Walmart.
Before I switched over to Amsoil, I always stuck with Motorcraft. And for the last few years they seem to have gone to the synthetic blend. My logic was that if the manufacturer of the vehicle was also the manufacturer of the oil, then it should be the best off the shelf option. Same with filters.
MC syn blend or even a full synthetic is just fine. Full synthetic would be better since this is a turbo engine. I put castrol full synthetic on my 2020 xlt but will be going with motorcraft FULL synthetic on the next change, only because it was free from the dealer. I got the oil from them as i'm doing it myself.
Plenty of power for this size vehicle. Had a 4 cylinder Mazda previously and that was a joke compared to this. I forget this one is only a 4 cylinder sometimes. And this is even the small one. 34,000 miles in the first year and my wife still loves driving it.
That’s one of the arguments I see often. Right there with changing it cold vs hot. The consensus is warm. As in let it idle for a few minutes or change it after driving. That way all the contaminants are stirred up and suspended in the oil and thus can be drained. Versus settling to and potentially sticking to the bottom of the pan and not coming out. Which makes sense. But the counter argument is to let the vehicle sit and cool down for hours or overnight to let all the oil drain out of the crevices, out of the heads, and off the internal parts. Then you in theory get a more complete volume out. But the question is what time is best? Too long and things settle and stay in the pan anyway. Too short and the surfaces are still coated with oil which then doesn’t drain. I personally choose to do it cool and just let it run for the time it takes to pull it on the ramps. So maybe a minute or two. Then I don’t get burned. But as long as you are doing a new good quality filter, it will collect whatever contaminants might be left. If everything is stirred up and suspended then the concentration isn’t high in that tiny bit remaining and it will be fine. The ramps I’m guessing might leave a couple ounces. That starts a different argument of how long do you drain? Plug it as it starts to just dribble, or get every drop out by letting it sit for hours unplugged? There are too many variables to nit pick the whole process much.
@@micalstephenson thanks for the comprehensive feedback. Hopefully remains reliable as I've read that the 2020 models had issues (vehicles were being built in chicago then sent back to Michigan for fixing or finishing them). Also first year of prod. This has to be by far one of best chasis configurations from ease of maintenance and cost. Two lower control arms with a macpherson strur setup. Engine and trans longitudinally mounted. 4 cylinder looks fairly easy to work on. Very nice combo overall in my opinion
I really do hope it’s reliable. My wife does a ton of driving. Already at almost 40k in a year pretty much exclusively for work. All great so far. Transmission isn’t my favorite but I think it’s the volume adjustment knob they have for a gear selector. Very delayed when changing directions or leaving park. I have had my fair share of first batch problems. My 2011 truck was made in January 2010 so it was one of the very first batches of 6.7L. It has had just about all of the little issues possible. Hence why I started making videos.
I will add, while the engine bay is very spacious, can anyone explain why there are 3 different styles of fasteners to get to the oil plug? Why plastic clips in a high traffic location. Seems poorly thought out. As an engineer myself, I wonder who gets to make those decisions. They need some shop time before they get design time.
*Did you changing the engine oil every 25k miles? are you serious? i change it every 5k miles and my car mileage now it's 470k km and the engine look like a new without any problem , so i suggest you to recheck oil after 5k miles and if you see the oil color look like dark brown change it*
I appreciate the concern. But as an engineer, I am going to follow the science. If you look into the research behind Amsoil or other top quality oils you can see that 5k intervals are antiquated. In my opinion, if you are draining oil that is brown, (not black yet) then you are wasting money and oil. But it is also possible that some of the cheaper low end products only last that long before needing to be replaced. Just use your best judgment. My grandpa changed the oil whenever he was bored and thought about it (way longer than anyone should wait) and his oldest truck has over 500k on it. And that truck has lived a really hard life but it’s still kicking. To each their own.
Nowadays it doesn’t matter what it’s made of. The bottom of the cars are completely covered in plastic so nothing is getting to the pans anyway. Notice how there are like 10 plastic fasteners just to be able to see the pan.
Yes, actually we have the extended warranty. They don’t have to do the work to keep warranty. If your dealer requires it, you need to find another dealer.
By federal law the dealer cannot make you use the dealer service department for maintenance in order to cover you on the warranty. Just as long as you can show you serviced it at the minimum specified intervals on the manual.
Do a little research and don’t let the people selling you a product while making $10/hr convince you that modern science and engineering is stupid. Even the factory/manufacturers are at 10k mile intervals on these cars. And you know they are conservative since they are standing behind warranty on millions of vehicles.
@@micalstephenson they say 10k miles per oil change because they only care about the car until the warranty expires ... If you look at the oil coming out at 10k you would see it's filthy. Especially considering it's an EcoBoost engine which is a dirty engine in design it should be changed every 5k If you want to keep your vehicle for as long as possible
@@micalstephenson They're also at every 6 months regardless of oil type. I usually change the oil every 6 months and just reuse it in my truck or mower until the warranty is done anyway. My old truck is 25 years old now so it doesn't seem to mind used oil.
“Need” probably not. But I would leave it. You would be surprised how all of those panels are figured into the cooling and aerodynamics of the car. Not that it’s a huge part but it is most likely designed to have a little bit of a Venturi effect and helps to guide the air in and out of the different areas under the car. But mostly I would say it does offer a lot more protection than you would think. At 80 mph, any added deflection can prevent rocks or debris in the road from hitting the bottom of the motor. People think because it’s plastic that it’s weak but it’s actually intended to give and bend. When it bends or dents as it gets hit, that is increasing the time that it is “catching” the object. So a force spread over a longer time makes more work. Basically diluting the force of the object. That’s the same principle that makes a safety net work for fall protection without killing people.
Авто/Мото
You really should consider using a jack to get under the car. If you notice the drain plug is at the front of the pan. You need to be able to lower the car back down to get all the oil out. There is probably a half quart or more that doesn’t drain when you are using the ramps. Just a suggestion.
I would not stretch oil change intervals on the ecoboost engines. Oil dilution is a big issue with some unburned fuel mixing in the crankcase. Use a synthetic oil and change every 5 k.
Factory recommended is 10k. I use Amsoil that is good for 25k. I then do a filter change every 12.5k and top off the oil. If an excessive amount of fuel is getting in that should be checked out. Could be excessive wear on the rings or cylinder walls.
I agree that the oil should be changed at least every 5000 mi or 8000 km in my case. No oil is good for 25000 mi especially in an EcoBoost engine. Oil is cheap, engine's aren't.
thanks for this video I changed the oil in my new fusion had to drop the arrow pan and need a video for that about to change in my 2020 explore for the first time today and I couldn't find a video just happens i checked 1 more time and found you thanks again.
I’m glad I was able to help. That’s my bad on the delay. I forgot to post it this last spring when I filmed.
Good video. I just put this same oil, Amsoil 5w30 ss in my 21 Explorer Timberline. I did Amsoil in the transfercase, front/rear diffs as well. Good stuff
Thank you! I have it in everything now. From vehicles to 2 stroke mix to spray lube.
Would that not void your warranty should something happen 🤔
Another thought on those oil filters that just won't come off...buy the oil filter vise grips! They work awesome and have really saved me from some nightmare scenarios. BTW "silky smooth" has been one of my favorite "pick-up" lines...
I have thought about those pliers. But I’m cheap. 🤣
thanks for this video really liked it,
I would love to see how you change the PTU fluid on this vehicle
also transmission fluid,
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it. This being a 2wd, there is no ptu. Transmission service has yet to happen you but will probably get done at the dealer. I don’t have the proper equipment to do it the right way.
The oil level on a 2.3 ecoboost does not go to the top of hatch marks, it goes to the hole in the dipstick above the hatch marks.
First oil change at over 10k miles? Ouch! Esp on these eco boosts, I wouldn't dare go over 5k. These things need clean oil and a catch can.
Common sense would tell me that if the dealer recommends 10k then that is plenty conservative. They have to take into account the best and worst cases of driving styles when setting the standards.
I also believe in the research and data in the oil I use. It is superior to the dealer brand so I will follow its guidelines as well. Which is well over 10k. My thoughts on the oil industry in general are that you might not always just follow what a company says when they are the ones making more money if you do. Look at independent research.
I agree, with oil and filters being so cheap there is no excuse not to change the oil every 5,000 miles. For a turbocharged motor some may wanna go 3,000. Twin turbos are really hot and very hard on oil.
@@LA_Commander that’s totally fine if you want to change it more often than recommended. I would warn against cheap oil and filters though. There are a lot of brands that you get what you pay for. I always believed that a few extra dollars on a quality filter and oil could prevent failures and a 10k motor replacement bill. I have never thought of maintenance to be the place to save money. That’s why I pay the extra for the Amsoil. It’s one of the top brands available. Before I went synthetic I used Rotella and Wix.
@@micalstephenson those are good points. And yes, even quality oils and filters are cheap when you consider how much you pay for your car. Amsoil is a very good product. I would never use the very cheapest oil and filter I could find. I prefer to use wix filters and either Shell Rotella T6 or Penzoil platinum or Mobil1. But I don't do the super extended oil changes. I could get away with it since my motors are all naturally aspirated, but if I had a turbo I would for sure change it very often. I go every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and both my cars have over 250,000 miles and no issues. Original motor, trans, and rear end. Blackstone labs even used the words "nearly flawless" on the most recent oil sample.
Do you have power steering and had you drove on interstates lately
Thank you sir!
2020 Ford Explorer XLT
Engine
2.3-liter EcoBoost
5.2 Quarts of oil
SAE 5W-30 synthelic blend
1 - 5 quart
1 x 1 quart if you can find
15 mm oil plug
5.5mm & 7mm to remove cover
Supertech oil filter
ST3614
Supertech air filter
1250
You are great thanks
Damn it. I have the 21 ST with the top cartridge and plastic twist drain plug. Smh. I prefer this.
Very helpful base/xlt 2.3L explorer 2020 oil change video! First seen about this model in RUclips! Btw, my 2.3L xlt 2020 has these 2-3 seconds sound when opening any of the doors. The car was shutdown during the time so thought it is reset sound but can't think of anything to reset? Any share?
The sounds you hear are the car getting ready to start. When your key fob is close enough or a door is opened, the car begins a start up procedure assuming that you are about to drive it. Nothing to worry about.
@@micalstephenson Lol my wife say it's transforming i went from a 1997 Explore V6 to this 2020 2.3L had no ideal what the sound was 234k on my old Explorer. Sounds to me like it's breathing.
This filter isn’t bad, but for some of those hard to reach ones you can use a gallon ziplock bag over it to catch the oil. Great video and was this the 2.3 or 3.0 Engine?
Thank you for the tip. I may steal that from you. I normally just make a huge mess and complain about ruining my driveway and shirt. I’m trying to get better about it though. This was the 2.3L
Talk about a mess, my ram 1500 is absolutely the worst oil change I've ever had to do. The filter is right on top of the steering rack...bag trick works pretty well thou. I'm going to do the Explorer today, hoping it goes well. I'm kind of surprised they aren't doing the cartridge style. Lots of room in the engine bay..
Yes this one is super easy as far as space. I’m used to much tighter engine bays.
I have a base 2.3 Ford Explorer 2020 RWD put 10,000 miles on it just went to go see what they would offer me so may,2021 my trade in was worth 30,200$ I was thinking about trading it in because worried of the longevity of these 10 speed transmissions
These trans will be fine. More worried about the 2.3 and carbon deposits.
The trans has already done a few weird things for us. Somewhat of a delay when changing direction. I have always attributed it to having too many electronics instead of a lever to shift. But it also has made a chattering noise a few times. It’s been checked out by the dealer and they say it’s all good but I’m not convinced.
@@Anon1mous I've alwys used Archoil ar6200 and Amsoil PI in my 2019 2.7 F150 and in my 21 Explorer 2.3 . I do realize the 2.3 has no port injection like the 2.7. But the Amsoil 5w30 ss has the Honda turbo heat rating which is excellent
Hey, where are your safety glasses mister? And tell your neighbor to shut that damned mower off! LOL. Great vid! I have the 2021 Timberline and I'm about to start doing my own oil changes. That shield looks like a pain in the a$$ too! Take care!
Safety glasses? Never met her. He does like to work outside when I’m filming. I’m always fighting that. Thank you for watching and the comment. Good luck with yours! It’s not that bad.
Nice video. I like your made tool. I always use a "cat claw" tool for those plastic tabs. Also they are cheap online. My manual says to use 5w30 BLENDED oil. I buy the Motorcraft version from Walmart.
Before I switched over to Amsoil, I always stuck with Motorcraft. And for the last few years they seem to have gone to the synthetic blend. My logic was that if the manufacturer of the vehicle was also the manufacturer of the oil, then it should be the best off the shelf option. Same with filters.
MC syn blend or even a full synthetic is just fine. Full synthetic would be better since this is a turbo engine. I put castrol full synthetic on my 2020 xlt but will be going with motorcraft FULL synthetic on the next change, only because it was free from the dealer. I got the oil from them as i'm doing it myself.
Thank you for the video. I wanna ask you about the car. How is this turbo ecoboost engine ? Is it powerful like 6 cylinder ?
Plenty of power for this size vehicle. Had a 4 cylinder Mazda previously and that was a joke compared to this. I forget this one is only a 4 cylinder sometimes. And this is even the small one. 34,000 miles in the first year and my wife still loves driving it.
@@micalstephenson that's awesome man. Thank you 👍🏻
You’re welcome
@@alialabbas1982 i have this explorer upgraded from the 3.5 v6 and wow forget about that v6 this thing is really impressive
Since the drain plug is at the front and the engine is tilted backwards from the ramps how much old dirty oil you figure remains in the engine?
That’s one of the arguments I see often. Right there with changing it cold vs hot. The consensus is warm. As in let it idle for a few minutes or change it after driving. That way all the contaminants are stirred up and suspended in the oil and thus can be drained. Versus settling to and potentially sticking to the bottom of the pan and not coming out. Which makes sense. But the counter argument is to let the vehicle sit and cool down for hours or overnight to let all the oil drain out of the crevices, out of the heads, and off the internal parts. Then you in theory get a more complete volume out. But the question is what time is best? Too long and things settle and stay in the pan anyway. Too short and the surfaces are still coated with oil which then doesn’t drain. I personally choose to do it cool and just let it run for the time it takes to pull it on the ramps. So maybe a minute or two. Then I don’t get burned. But as long as you are doing a new good quality filter, it will collect whatever contaminants might be left. If everything is stirred up and suspended then the concentration isn’t high in that tiny bit remaining and it will be fine. The ramps I’m guessing might leave a couple ounces. That starts a different argument of how long do you drain? Plug it as it starts to just dribble, or get every drop out by letting it sit for hours unplugged? There are too many variables to nit pick the whole process much.
@@micalstephenson thanks for the comprehensive feedback. Hopefully remains reliable as I've read that the 2020 models had issues (vehicles were being built in chicago then sent back to Michigan for fixing or finishing them). Also first year of prod.
This has to be by far one of best chasis configurations from ease of maintenance and cost. Two lower control arms with a macpherson strur setup. Engine and trans longitudinally mounted. 4 cylinder looks fairly easy to work on. Very nice combo overall in my opinion
I really do hope it’s reliable. My wife does a ton of driving. Already at almost 40k in a year pretty much exclusively for work. All great so far. Transmission isn’t my favorite but I think it’s the volume adjustment knob they have for a gear selector. Very delayed when changing directions or leaving park.
I have had my fair share of first batch problems. My 2011 truck was made in January 2010 so it was one of the very first batches of 6.7L. It has had just about all of the little issues possible. Hence why I started making videos.
I will add, while the engine bay is very spacious, can anyone explain why there are 3 different styles of fasteners to get to the oil plug? Why plastic clips in a high traffic location. Seems poorly thought out. As an engineer myself, I wonder who gets to make those decisions. They need some shop time before they get design time.
How long you had this suv. And what state is your suv from
Just over a year. Texas.
*Did you changing the engine oil every 25k miles? are you serious? i change it every 5k miles and my car mileage now it's 470k km and the engine look like a new without any problem , so i suggest you to recheck oil after 5k miles and if you see the oil color look like dark brown change it*
I appreciate the concern. But as an engineer, I am going to follow the science. If you look into the research behind Amsoil or other top quality oils you can see that 5k intervals are antiquated. In my opinion, if you are draining oil that is brown, (not black yet) then you are wasting money and oil. But it is also possible that some of the cheaper low end products only last that long before needing to be replaced. Just use your best judgment. My grandpa changed the oil whenever he was bored and thought about it (way longer than anyone should wait) and his oldest truck has over 500k on it. And that truck has lived a really hard life but it’s still kicking. To each their own.
Wow, a metal oil pan! The Explorers ST are plastic. But I think you still got a plastic transmission pan.
Nowadays it doesn’t matter what it’s made of. The bottom of the cars are completely covered in plastic so nothing is getting to the pans anyway. Notice how there are like 10 plastic fasteners just to be able to see the pan.
Don't you have the warranty and have to have a dealer do the work to keep the warranty??
Yes, actually we have the extended warranty. They don’t have to do the work to keep warranty. If your dealer requires it, you need to find another dealer.
By federal law the dealer cannot make you use the dealer service department for maintenance in order to cover you on the warranty. Just as long as you can show you serviced it at the minimum specified intervals on the manual.
Punch a hole in the filter to let it drain before removing it
I do that most times. Great tip.
Damn you will ruin your engine, change the oil every 3-5000 miles.
Do a little research and don’t let the people selling you a product while making $10/hr convince you that modern science and engineering is stupid. Even the factory/manufacturers are at 10k mile intervals on these cars. And you know they are conservative since they are standing behind warranty on millions of vehicles.
@@micalstephenson they say 10k miles per oil change because they only care about the car until the warranty expires ... If you look at the oil coming out at 10k you would see it's filthy. Especially considering it's an EcoBoost engine which is a dirty engine in design it should be changed every 5k If you want to keep your vehicle for as long as possible
@@micalstephenson They're also at every 6 months regardless of oil type. I usually change the oil every 6 months and just reuse it in my truck or mower until the warranty is done anyway. My old truck is 25 years old now so it doesn't seem to mind used oil.
Do u even need that useless skid plate
“Need” probably not. But I would leave it. You would be surprised how all of those panels are figured into the cooling and aerodynamics of the car. Not that it’s a huge part but it is most likely designed to have a little bit of a Venturi effect and helps to guide the air in and out of the different areas under the car. But mostly I would say it does offer a lot more protection than you would think. At 80 mph, any added deflection can prevent rocks or debris in the road from hitting the bottom of the motor. People think because it’s plastic that it’s weak but it’s actually intended to give and bend. When it bends or dents as it gets hit, that is increasing the time that it is “catching” the object. So a force spread over a longer time makes more work. Basically diluting the force of the object. That’s the same principle that makes a safety net work for fall protection without killing people.
What a PITA. Get an oil extractor and move on from this nonsense.