As someone who has worked as an auto technician for a few years and have many friends who still work in the field both as technicians and one is an engineer....I can say that just like everything....it depends. You should never use an oiled filter on a vehicle equipped with a maf sensor. Even if you do not kill the sensor you will contaminate the maf wire causing it to read incorrectly causing incorrect fuel metering. There are plenty of vehicles built over the years that do not use or have a maf there for reading air flow to set how much fuel to add. A maf-less vehicle is good to go on a oiled filter, otherwise run a dry filter (I like afe). You also typically do not need to do a retune for just a bolt on intake on 90% of vehicles. The maf, map, etc sensors are able to meter the air and adapt accordingly. That’s like needing a retune if you have a dirty filter, installing just an intake is not that dramatic of a change that the ecu can’t adapt. That said, if you go changing out throttle bodies, intake manifolds, cams, etc then you absolutely need a tune. Some forced induction engines or engines that lack a maf have a much more narrow set of parameters and may need a tune, but that’s not the norm. What everyone will have to do on all modern vehicles is a air idle relearn after installing the intake. Think of it as a calibration so the vehicle knows how to handle the increased flow of the intake correctly and how much air is coming in now. If you don’t do that you may get a high idle or even have the vehicle “searching” causing the idle to go up and down. On most vehicles that doesn’t require a scan tool at all, you just follow a few steps in a certain sequence. I just did an idle relearn on my 2006 Nissan spec v recently and I didn’t need any tools, my 2000 Altima only needs a Phillips screwdriver. Lastly, intakes certainly add (sometimes significantly) more power if you’re setup to take advantage of it. Engines are fundamentally air pumps. If you are running a stock headers, cats, exhaust then opening the intake really won’t do much for you in most cases unless the vehicle has a particularly restrictive stock intake. If you have an opened up the exhaust flow then you’ll see some returns on the intake....air in/air out. I personally like my intakes because of the better throttle response much more so than any horsepower increase. My vehicle probably is seeing 20+ hp increase with my intake working with the other mods, but I also have cams and valve springs as well no precat and a 2.5in exhaust, my vehicle is setup to get the most out of an intake and the factory box would definitely cause me to loose power if I reinstalled it.
Similar to what a race engineer told me--it works better also if you have an exhaust.I already have an exhaust and are thinking about an intake--was told the Honda computer will adjust without a relearn.Intakes--when a car gets rolling--by the sheer design an air intake allows more air then a stock filter--and the faster and colder it is can give you up to 10-15% max on most motors in proper running.I also noticed a very slight pause that some folks have said a few years ago on a car--its on you tube--an olds aurora--that I put an intake on.The pause was because supposedly there is no pressure like the stock box creates and the engine takes a split second to get the initial suck of air--but it also gradually increases HP as you go faster and more air flows--that is at least the most truthful theory.Another problem is where the intake sits--in my Honda that I might do--it sits to the side of the engine over the wheelwell--should be getting cooler and more air once I get moving--but on some cars the intake is in the front--or folks cut a hole at the headlight--which probably would make it even better.
How do you do an idle relearn? I can just change my idle rpm via the diagnostic, but I've never heard of a re-learn of the MAF (I assume) btw the car is forced induction. Thanks.
I think the main difference is, there's a vacuum with a pipe and a filter, stock air intake usually has a least one or two holes so the engine doesn't hydro lock if you go through a deep puddle. I've seen a pod filter make a huge difference in some cars.
I have a 2013 base cab 5 speed manual and I modified the factory airbox by removing the chamber located in the upper fender behind the fender liner. I installed the TRD airhorn into the airbox and removed the charcoal filter from the airbox cover and then dropped the flat panel K&N into the airbox. If you drive around sedate there is not much sound difference from stock, but if you stomp the go pedal it gets pretty loud. I've built mine like an X-Runner that weighs 500 pound less.
And then there are those who refuse to get their feet wet like this guy did and actually try one of these intakes. Stock intakes are garbage. K&N rules!!!
the "cold" in cold air intake simply means your gathering air from OUTSIDE the motor bay. The motor bay stays very hot, outside the motor bay stays very cold in comparison. Cold air carries more oxygen which provides for more efficient combustion. the colder the air is that gets inside your engine the more power your engine can produce. Your MAF sensor records temperature - the ECU bases the fuel to air mixture on how cold the air is because cold air = more oxygen which needs more gas squirted in the combustion chamber to produce more power.
Waste of money and losing power lol. Have you ever measured the air temperatures of your cold air intake vs the stock unit? You’ll be surprised how much cooler the air from the stock unit is. You get better results with dropping a high flow k&n filter in your stock air box.
So, why there are so much RUclipsrs shedding negativeness on cold intakes. I just installed one today on my traverse, and it is driving so damn smooth, nice. The stock filter box that comes with my traverse I'm thinking about altering it to shield off the engine heat, what do you think.
Every car have cold air intake now days.The difference on those "sportive" filters from K&N, etc is the airflow, not the air temp.The sportive, win HP on high RPM, where the stock air box win torque curve on lower RPM. The Resonator box actual act as a "tiny mini turbo" on lower RPM, where the airflow "line" is big enough so the air kind of push it a little more.The Sportive does not, but it is less restrictive on the very High redline RPM. But both get cold air.Also i don't buy this "it need a tune"Use the new tune on the stock air filter and you will get similar results. YOu only need to tune a car if you make actuality mods, such as cams, valves, compression ratio and turbo. Airbox, either high or low flow can only allow atmospheric pressure air inside. No matter what intake you have. The ECU is already tunned to that.
@Vanessa Pucca No the resonator is meant to help suppress noise. Even if the resonator were to get some air turbulence it is laughable to say it adds any pressure or performance as the majority of air doesn't travel UP into it because it's not in the direction where the airflow travels. Now For MOST vehicles, the stock airbox gets pretty hot and is quite restrictive that those drop in filters don't do much.
That's about what I get from my Tacoma most of the time. There's a little more power up top, or so it feels like to me. I finally got around to putting the MAF Calibrator in my truck and it feels better now that I have it installed
No power because the flaw is in the design. Like why the heck was it designed for the tube go directly over the engine. Even with a cold air intake setup, the air passing through the pipe will get so hot before entering the intake manifold.
I've tried K&N and also Injen Evolution CAI's on my 2016 Mustang GT and sometimes I wonder if it's just the bloody tune making most of the HP gains! The one thing I hate that the aftermarket CAI's create is this elastic band effect which can be nerve wracking as before it just pulls without this pause and now it pauses and then catapults forward!
I don’t believe Cold Air Intakes give you anymore performance than you would get from just dropping in a K&N filter in the stock air box. Beyond that I think replacing the stock intake tube with one that doesn’t have a reservoir or breather hose would be the next best improvement.
To see improvemente in horse power o have to make a hole on the size above the well and that's where you put the filter. Inside in the engine compartmente all you're going to gèt is a noisy filter with not much power because the filter is still sucking hot air from the engine compartmente.
@@honeybear8485 don't forget to try in your meals a big one pound brown meet that will help you keeping yr ass healthy and your mouth close hahahaha...
If you live instates where you haft to pass smog . You want to go with one that has an OE number that can be smoked. Such ass K&n, or A&E. They can be easily looked up online. For the most part that's why they cost more than others, it's that it cost money to get them OE legal. Also good components that work good with them are TB's, exhuast and tuners, and fuel pressure regulators.
Trump stickers are 600 hp to the rear wheels. I have 4 on my truck ....... And now I have so much power when I stomp the gas the tailgate falls the fuckoff.
What you have stock IS a cold air intake, what you got with that contraption is a hot air intake with a filter that does not filter nearly as well as a stock filter. Most stock modern engine intake packages are optimized for max power with limitations for exhaust noise, intake noise and water contamination in the intake. Any dyno horsepower gains are due mostly to the low restriction filters. There is a reason manufacturers don't put K&N filters in their vehicles, they need to warranty them! Don't believe the dyno information they provide. There is CAI company that provides dyno info on their units, but from what I saw, the tests weren't done back to back, same day. Their product was tested on an 80 degree day, stock unit on a 92 degree day. Back in the Flinstone era when I use to live at the drag strip, I could tell if my car was going to run 10.40s at 130mph or 10.60s at 126mph just by checking the weather before leaving. Naturally aspirated vehicles performance is greatly affected by temperature, barometric pressure, humidity and at the track wind speed and direction. I use to run a K&N filter on the Dominator carb because there was a lot of dust at the track but I don't see the point of putting this thing on a 125 horsepower Toyota daily driver.
They are also designed to help keep the engine smooth. Some after market intakes do away with that making the engine run lumpy at low RPM. Peugeot had an issue with the 405 on one of its engines the air intake was very straight it ran lumpy in UK where people drive slower than the French. However drive it faster it was fine. Peugeot redesign the intake hose adding a bend in there and fixed the issue. Still great when u drive fast but smooth when you are driving slow.
Looks like I'm doing the right thing by sticking with mastering my driving and engineering skills similar to "modifying" and enhancing a vehicle but for -a- more potent and longer-lasting results.
ALL oul type filter transfer oil vapor to the mass air sensor wire... which then requires cleaning at about 300 miles. Sooner because most people over oil. Remember the oil is what catches dust. Oil gauze filters do not filter near as well as factory filters. But you need that 5 horsepower at 5,000 rpm because you drive around in low gear with your foot on the floor all the time... so do you care if your engine wears out ??
@@thomasgoode4047 Well I will say this much. I own a Mazda RX8 which is a very strange car to say the least. The stock intake is towards the front bumper on what I could only describe as a bar that holds up the bumper. I purchased a DNA Motoring air intake which sits much lower than the stock one. it's basically behind the grill which allows it to pick up colder air since it's further away from the engine. As for a "normal" car the CAI is strange and I have the same question but I can say confidently that at the very minimum for the RX8 the term "cold air intake" applies.
@@theCUBE403 That little hole works only for the stock box, now he got it all open therefor his engine sucks more hot air then anything else. Now that video is a BUST. not to mention on a 4 cyl. motor.
You need to know exactly how an engine works before you advise others on the "truth" of how anything about it works. Your air intake, at the filter, does not 100% seal out engine compartment air, so it is drawing in that hot air. Have you followed that hole in the fender to know what is past that hole? Also, if you know anything about fluid dynamics, you would understand that space around the filter does not promote much of a vacuum condition to draw from that hole in the fender, if that hole in the fender actually does ultimately lead to an opening to outside air. How about showing us the air duct on the stock Tacoma that leads outside of the engine compartment and is truly drawing in cold air? That is how all modern vehicles are engineered; to draw in fresh, cooler air from outside the engine compartment.
All this of course is contingent on wide open throttle which how often are we in wot does it make any difference in a normal driving situation yes or no ? I'm thinking maybe a little bit but not sure
Eh... You don't get MORE top speed without MORE Power from an intake. So what you are saying isnt completely true. What IS true is, Less restriction = More Air = More Power and Throttle Response. Colder air is a bonus to make more power. Higher speeds CAN give maximum efficiency IF you can direct outside air to blow ONTO the filter directly then THIS would allow for better top speed as air turbulance pushes away heat, hence colder air making for more power.
@@skymonkey30 IF you can direct outside air to blow ONTO the filter directly then THIS would allow for better top speed as air turbulance pushes away heat, hence colder air making for more power. THAT WHAT I MEAN
Hey I don't really understand how a CAI differs from Short Ram and Conical filers fitted in the factory setup with silicon pipes, clamps. They all suck the hot air from the engine bay. So, does it really matter which one you have??? Thanks!
Like 6, most cars don't have that resonator great video on this bro 👍, without a tune you won't get any power out of it it's pretty much just noise it'll probably just add 1hp as is but yea that would be cool to see what it did on a dyno but it is pretty pricey depending where u go and if there is even one near you. Enjoyed watching the video man :)
Want your short ram suck less hot air? If you don't give a crap about having your engine bay getting dirty quickly. Add some washers to your hood. Raise it up a little to vent out the hot air while driving.
If they came with cold air intakes, then Dodge could not sell replacement engines every time someone drives through a foot of water. Learned the hard way. In hindsight it was stupid, but I had been through the same spot many times before in other vehicles after a rain. I drove my Challenger through some water and now I have a new $8000 engine courtesy of Allstate, plus $1600 out of pocket (for depreciation). I get the car back tomorrow from the dealer's service department. Sometime this week I will order a cold air intake for it. Stupid, stupid design. Seriously is there some reason that the factory intake cannot be ducted just behind the grill, Dodge?. Maybe just have a setup like on the Hellcats with an air intake through the headlight on all the Challengers and Chargers.
How do cold air intakes work? they should call them hot air intake because that's exactly what they do pull hot air from under the hood into the intake. Here's what they really do, they remove money from your pocket and give it to someone for a completely useless mod that robs power and mpg from your vehicle seen plenty on chassie dyno...well that's how they work. On the other hand tuners and exhaust do work..
any benefit you should see is immediately negated when being stupid enougg to use a "CAI" that pulls hot air from the engine bay. and anyone that buys k&n garbage deserves the shortened longevity of their engine due to dust being sucked through their overly expensive crap filter
And someone else who knows nothing about how these work and who hasnt tested one for himself. Lol I swear people who refuse to get their feet wet and actaully try these for themselves are freakin lazy. Lol
Bro all that for a 2.7 4 banger motor. Don’t need the 250 dollar device. Your ECU will over time compensate for the extra air your pulling from your K and N and add more fuel thus giving you your 7 horses for the extra 600 bucks you spent. Let’s see 120 dollars per one HP. Just buy a Borla muffler and get 15-20 horses much easier IMO.
15-20 hp on a 4 cyl with just the addition of a Borla muffler?....,um ok. I put a full Borla cat back exhaust (Touring ) on my 2016 Chevy 5.3L Silverado and got maybe 10hp. There is a noticeable boost in midrange torque 2000-3500rpm under hard acceleration and man o man it sounds good!
Cold sir intakes don't work because, the computers in cars regulate the amount of fuel injected into the engine for the volume of air entering the engine. So there is no benifit exectpt for high rpm there is a small improvement. So, the engine will have to be tuned to benifit for the extra air.
Not true.The computer know how to regulate any ammount of air as long as you keep the same RPM range as the car was made (in other words, no custom cams) and you keep the air pressure atmospheric (in other words, no turbo or super charge). Say that it can't is like say that an ECU can't regulate a car made on a lower atmospheric pressure city if it travel to a city with high one.
You won't see much increase with just a intake cause you are not allowing for more to get out. Intake is worth it when you do headers and a high flow muffler.
yea, I working on a 09 Ram 5.7 HEMI. I replaced the muffler with a magna flow. I trying to find headers for it, but for some reason no one seems to have them. If you have any ideas let me know. Then I getting a CAI that is actually mounted to hood and forces air into intake. So it be cold air and forced air.
oil clogs and collects dirt paper filters are the best. the engineers design the airbox so you get direct and maximum air flow into your engine. so so theoretically you could put your cold air intake down below where your air box takes in air. might I add also keeps water from getting in your engine especially when you're in a downpour . just a thought :)
Lol, the charcoal filter works like a spark arrester......those 300 dollar air filters are a joke.......you simply dont know what your talking about.......if you want more power, change the engine out for a larger one.
Well it all depends. To me, I'd say yes on vehicles like my Tacoma that otherwise can't get out of its own way. I got a slight bump in gas mileage as well. For the most part, I'd only get a CAI if it's part of a larger build
Unless you have a turbo or super charger pushing mass amounts of air into the engine that CAI offers ZERO benefits.....except for making you 400 bucks less rich and a loud truck...if your looking to make your truck louder than I would definitely buy a CAI and I just wanted to waste 400 bucks
As someone who has worked as an auto technician for a few years and have many friends who still work in the field both as technicians and one is an engineer....I can say that just like everything....it depends. You should never use an oiled filter on a vehicle equipped with a maf sensor. Even if you do not kill the sensor you will contaminate the maf wire causing it to read incorrectly causing incorrect fuel metering. There are plenty of vehicles built over the years that do not use or have a maf there for reading air flow to set how much fuel to add. A maf-less vehicle is good to go on a oiled filter, otherwise run a dry filter (I like afe).
You also typically do not need to do a retune for just a bolt on intake on 90% of vehicles. The maf, map, etc sensors are able to meter the air and adapt accordingly. That’s like needing a retune if you have a dirty filter, installing just an intake is not that dramatic of a change that the ecu can’t adapt. That said, if you go changing out throttle bodies, intake manifolds, cams, etc then you absolutely need a tune. Some forced induction engines or engines that lack a maf have a much more narrow set of parameters and may need a tune, but that’s not the norm. What everyone will have to do on all modern vehicles is a air idle relearn after installing the intake. Think of it as a calibration so the vehicle knows how to handle the increased flow of the intake correctly and how much air is coming in now. If you don’t do that you may get a high idle or even have the vehicle “searching” causing the idle to go up and down. On most vehicles that doesn’t require a scan tool at all, you just follow a few steps in a certain sequence. I just did an idle relearn on my 2006 Nissan spec v recently and I didn’t need any tools, my 2000 Altima only needs a Phillips screwdriver.
Lastly, intakes certainly add (sometimes significantly) more power if you’re setup to take advantage of it. Engines are fundamentally air pumps. If you are running a stock headers, cats, exhaust then opening the intake really won’t do much for you in most cases unless the vehicle has a particularly restrictive stock intake. If you have an opened up the exhaust flow then you’ll see some returns on the intake....air in/air out. I personally like my intakes because of the better throttle response much more so than any horsepower increase. My vehicle probably is seeing 20+ hp increase with my intake working with the other mods, but I also have cams and valve springs as well no precat and a 2.5in exhaust, my vehicle is setup to get the most out of an intake and the factory box would definitely cause me to loose power if I reinstalled it.
Similar to what a race engineer told me--it works better also if you have an exhaust.I already have an exhaust and are thinking about an intake--was told the Honda computer will adjust without a relearn.Intakes--when a car gets rolling--by the sheer design an air intake allows more air then a stock filter--and the faster and colder it is can give you up to 10-15% max on most motors in proper running.I also noticed a very slight pause that some folks have said a few years ago on a car--its on you tube--an olds aurora--that I put an intake on.The pause was because supposedly there is no pressure like the stock box creates and the engine takes a split second to get the initial suck of air--but it also gradually increases HP as you go faster and more air flows--that is at least the most truthful theory.Another problem is where the intake sits--in my Honda that I might do--it sits to the side of the engine over the wheelwell--should be getting cooler and more air once I get moving--but on some cars the intake is in the front--or folks cut a hole at the headlight--which probably would make it even better.
How do you do an idle relearn? I can just change my idle rpm via the diagnostic, but I've never heard of a re-learn of the MAF (I assume) btw the car is forced induction. Thanks.
Finally a post that has some knowledge behind it, nice work
Awesome take on this.
I think the main difference is, there's a vacuum with a pipe and a filter, stock air intake usually has a least one or two holes so the engine doesn't hydro lock if you go through a deep puddle. I've seen a pod filter make a huge difference in some cars.
I have a 2013 base cab 5 speed manual and I modified the factory airbox by removing the chamber located in the upper fender behind the fender liner. I installed the TRD airhorn into the airbox and removed the charcoal filter from the airbox cover and then dropped the flat panel K&N into the airbox. If you drive around sedate there is not much sound difference from stock, but if you stomp the go pedal it gets pretty loud. I've built mine like an X-Runner that weighs 500 pound less.
I worked for K&N. They did $250,000,000 in sales at that time and laughed all the way to the bank while singing “there is a sucker born every minute.”
Royal Whitfield are you serious? I was thinking of getting their CAI 🙄
Sure you did.
And then there are those who refuse to get their feet wet like this guy did and actually try one of these intakes. Stock intakes are garbage. K&N rules!!!
i love my cold air on my .07 taco ,less restrictive
We used to put panty hose over our filters on dirt bikes... not high tech but it does work as a pre-filter
So in your own words you spent over $500 on this intake for little to no gain... just a little more engine noise.. gotcha..
the "cold" in cold air intake simply means your gathering air from OUTSIDE the motor bay. The motor bay stays very hot, outside the motor bay stays very cold in comparison. Cold air carries more oxygen which provides for more efficient combustion. the colder the air is that gets inside your engine the more power your engine can produce. Your MAF sensor records temperature - the ECU bases the fuel to air mixture on how cold the air is because cold air = more oxygen which needs more gas squirted in the combustion chamber to produce more power.
I have ran Cold Air Intake for years.. since 2009...and never had an issue..So...
Waste of money and losing power lol. Have you ever measured the air temperatures of your cold air intake vs the stock unit? You’ll be surprised how much cooler the air from the stock unit is. You get better results with dropping a high flow k&n filter in your stock air box.
So, why there are so much RUclipsrs shedding negativeness on cold intakes. I just installed one today on my traverse, and it is driving so damn smooth, nice. The stock filter box that comes with my traverse I'm thinking about altering it to shield off the engine heat, what do you think.
Every car have cold air intake now days.The difference on those "sportive" filters from K&N, etc is the airflow, not the air temp.The sportive, win HP on high RPM, where the stock air box win torque curve on lower RPM. The Resonator box actual act as a "tiny mini turbo" on lower RPM, where the airflow "line" is big enough so the air kind of push it a little more.The Sportive does not, but it is less restrictive on the very High redline RPM.
But both get cold air.Also i don't buy this "it need a tune"Use the new tune on the stock air filter and you will get similar results.
YOu only need to tune a car if you make actuality mods, such as cams, valves, compression ratio and turbo. Airbox, either high or low flow can only allow atmospheric pressure air inside. No matter what intake you have. The ECU is already tunned to that.
you need to combine with racing CDI racing plug coil and racing cutch plate for faster pick up, however mine is a motorcyle
@Vanessa Pucca No the resonator is meant to help suppress noise. Even if the resonator were to get some air turbulence it is laughable to say it adds any pressure or performance as the majority of air doesn't travel UP into it because it's not in the direction where the airflow travels. Now For MOST vehicles, the stock airbox gets pretty hot and is quite restrictive that those drop in filters don't do much.
I like the s&b filters with the plexiglass covers .. to eliminate as much engine heat as possible
and some of the s&b intakes have insulation inside the air box
I have a 5.7L Hemi Charger, I put a K&N intake on it and the only thing I’ve got from it was a little better fuel economy and alittle bit of sound.
That's about what I get from my Tacoma most of the time. There's a little more power up top, or so it feels like to me. I finally got around to putting the MAF Calibrator in my truck and it feels better now that I have it installed
No power because the flaw is in the design. Like why the heck was it designed for the tube go directly over the engine. Even with a cold air intake setup, the air passing through the pipe will get so hot before entering the intake manifold.
I've tried K&N and also Injen Evolution CAI's on my 2016 Mustang GT and sometimes I wonder if it's just the bloody tune making most of the HP gains! The one thing I hate that the aftermarket CAI's create is this elastic band effect which can be nerve wracking as before it just pulls without this pause and now it pauses and then catapults forward!
Cause you're MAF sensor is not functioning properly now
I don’t believe Cold Air Intakes give you anymore performance than you would get from just dropping in a K&N filter in the stock air box. Beyond that I think replacing the stock intake tube with one that doesn’t have a reservoir or breather hose would be the next best improvement.
To see improvemente in horse power o have to make a hole on the size above the well and that's where you put the filter.
Inside in the engine compartmente all you're going to gèt is a noisy filter with not much power because the filter is still sucking hot air from the engine compartmente.
I’m told switching from white to brown rice is a big help.
yeah Brown fried rice is better gluten free! pre-rinse the s*** out of it haha
@@honeybear8485 don't forget to try in your meals a big one pound brown meet that will help you keeping yr ass healthy and your mouth close hahahaha...
If you live instates where you haft to pass smog . You want to go with one that has an OE number that can be smoked.
Such ass K&n, or A&E. They can be easily looked up online.
For the most part that's why they cost more than others, it's that it cost money to get them OE legal.
Also good components that work good with them are TB's, exhuast and tuners, and fuel pressure regulators.
Just change it out put stock for your emissions then re install aftermarket so easy. But i dont live in california so i dont need to do that.
Trump stickers are 600 hp to the rear wheels. I have 4 on my truck ....... And now I have so much power when I stomp the gas the tailgate falls the fuckoff.
What you have stock IS a cold air intake, what you got with that contraption is a hot air intake with a filter that does not filter nearly as well as a stock filter. Most stock modern engine intake packages are optimized for max power with limitations for exhaust noise, intake noise and water contamination in the intake. Any dyno horsepower gains are due mostly to the low restriction filters. There is a reason manufacturers don't put K&N filters in their vehicles, they need to warranty them! Don't believe the dyno information they provide. There is CAI company that provides dyno info on their units, but from what I saw, the tests weren't done back to back, same day. Their product was tested on an 80 degree day, stock unit on a 92 degree day. Back in the Flinstone era when I use to live at the drag strip, I could tell if my car was going to run 10.40s at 130mph or 10.60s at 126mph just by checking the weather before leaving. Naturally aspirated vehicles performance is greatly affected by temperature, barometric pressure, humidity and at the track wind speed and direction. I use to run a K&N filter on the Dominator carb because there was a lot of dust at the track but I don't see the point of putting this thing on a 125 horsepower Toyota daily driver.
They are also designed to help keep the engine smooth. Some after market intakes do away with that making the engine run lumpy at low RPM. Peugeot had an issue with the 405 on one of its engines the air intake was very straight it ran lumpy in UK where people drive slower than the French. However drive it faster it was fine. Peugeot redesign the intake hose adding a bend in there and fixed the issue. Still great when u drive fast but smooth when you are driving slow.
Looks like I'm doing the right thing by sticking with mastering my driving and engineering skills similar to "modifying" and enhancing a vehicle but for -a- more potent and longer-lasting results.
ALL oul type filter transfer oil vapor to the mass air sensor wire... which then requires cleaning at about 300 miles.
Sooner because most people over oil.
Remember the oil is what catches dust. Oil gauze filters do not filter near as well as factory filters.
But you need that 5 horsepower at 5,000 rpm because you drive around in low gear with your foot on the floor all the time... so do you care if your engine wears out ??
If you don’t know that it gives you a gain of horsepower then why would you put it in the first place?
VERY WEL EXPLAINED. THANK YOU.
Where is the cold air coming from for the cold air intake? I looks like it just going to suck in hot air from the engine compartment.
Sangmin Lee I have been asking the same question and I have yet to get an answer. Let me know if you get a logical answer.
Ive been thinking the same for a long time. More like “hot air intake”
@@thomasgoode4047 Well I will say this much. I own a Mazda RX8 which is a very strange car to say the least. The stock intake is towards the front bumper on what I could only describe as a bar that holds up the bumper. I purchased a DNA Motoring air intake which sits much lower than the stock one. it's basically behind the grill which allows it to pick up colder air since it's further away from the engine. As for a "normal" car the CAI is strange and I have the same question but I can say confidently that at the very minimum for the RX8 the term "cold air intake" applies.
iF paid attention he said the air was being pulled into the engine compartment through a hole in the side wall
@@theCUBE403 That little hole works only for the stock box, now he got it all open therefor his engine sucks more hot air then anything else. Now that video is a BUST. not to mention on a 4 cyl. motor.
You need to know exactly how an engine works before you advise others on the "truth" of how anything about it works. Your air intake, at the filter, does not 100% seal out engine compartment air, so it is drawing in that hot air. Have you followed that hole in the fender to know what is past that hole? Also, if you know anything about fluid dynamics, you would understand that space around the filter does not promote much of a vacuum condition to draw from that hole in the fender, if that hole in the fender actually does ultimately lead to an opening to outside air. How about showing us the air duct on the stock Tacoma that leads outside of the engine compartment and is truly drawing in cold air? That is how all modern vehicles are engineered; to draw in fresh, cooler air from outside the engine compartment.
All this of course is contingent on wide open throttle which how often are we in wot does it make any difference in a normal driving situation yes or no ? I'm thinking maybe a little bit but not sure
You lose low end torque with cai. So yoh have to gun your vehicle all of the time
seem like this dude not really interested in racing, cold air intake work in top speed, not those every day driving speed
Eh... You don't get MORE top speed without MORE Power from an intake. So what you are saying isnt completely true.
What IS true is,
Less restriction = More Air = More Power and Throttle Response. Colder air is a bonus to make more power. Higher speeds CAN give maximum efficiency IF you can direct outside air to blow ONTO the filter directly then THIS would allow for better top speed as air turbulance pushes away heat, hence colder air making for more power.
@@skymonkey30 IF you can direct outside air to blow ONTO the filter directly then THIS would allow for better top speed as air turbulance pushes away heat, hence colder air making for more power. THAT WHAT I MEAN
Hey I don't really understand how a CAI differs from Short Ram and Conical filers fitted in the factory setup with silicon pipes, clamps. They all suck the hot air from the engine bay. So, does it really matter which one you have??? Thanks!
You’re getting caught up with names which are just marketing tools.
Location, temperature, vena contracta, and mass flow are what matters.
Any problems running a CAI on a 2.7 Tacoma ? Any mpg loss ? Any throttle response? Pros cons ?
Why doesnt somebody install an air temp gauge and see if these actually do supply as cold air as the factory.
Like 6, most cars don't have that resonator great video on this bro 👍, without a tune you won't get any power out of it it's pretty much just noise it'll probably just add 1hp as is but yea that would be cool to see what it did on a dyno but it is pretty pricey depending where u go and if there is even one near you. Enjoyed watching the video man :)
+Jesse Rizo thank you! And I did notice that Mustangs don't have a resonator either haha
TacoTom lol yea if I'm not mistaken I think that's a Tacoma thing great effort though bro 👍
That’s not a cold air intake that a short ram aka hot air intake
Defo sucking in hot air lol a cold air intake or cia is a closed intake i.e. a viper induction kit. Or K&n venom intake.
So no sound comparison or mpg or result stats?
It's a little louder sound wise, which you can hear in some of my vlogs. MPG wise, I went from 15 to about 17. So not too much
I'm doing this CAI and the tune. What's recommended to be done first for best results?
I'd do these at the same time. CAI first will give you some power if you do it first though
It's not cold air intake. Under the bonnet really hot.🔥🔥🔥
Want your short ram suck less hot air? If you don't give a crap about having your engine bay getting dirty quickly. Add some washers to your hood. Raise it up a little to vent out the hot air while driving.
So, why don’t all cars just come stock with cold air intake?
they do and better than that leaky air box KnN uses
Most modern sports and performance oriented cars do
If they came with cold air intakes, then Dodge could not sell replacement engines every time someone drives through a foot of water. Learned the hard way. In hindsight it was stupid, but I had been through the same spot many times before in other vehicles after a rain. I drove my Challenger through some water and now I have a new $8000 engine courtesy of Allstate, plus $1600 out of pocket (for depreciation). I get the car back tomorrow from the dealer's service department. Sometime this week I will order a cold air intake for it. Stupid, stupid design. Seriously is there some reason that the factory intake cannot be ducted just behind the grill, Dodge?. Maybe just have a setup like on the Hellcats with an air intake through the headlight on all the Challengers and Chargers.
Good information. Poor audio and video. Too much crackling and movement. But overall helpful.
How do cold air intakes work? they should call them hot air intake because that's exactly what they do pull hot air from under the hood into the intake. Here's what they really do, they remove money from your pocket and give it to someone for a completely useless mod that robs power and mpg from your vehicle seen plenty on chassie dyno...well that's how they work. On the other hand tuners and exhaust do work..
Ive noticed the vvti what year are those tacos?
any benefit you should see is immediately negated when being stupid enougg to use a "CAI" that pulls hot air from the engine bay. and anyone that buys k&n garbage deserves the shortened longevity of their engine due to dust being sucked through their overly expensive crap filter
William Buttlicker Between the dust getting in and that can’t in the world glazes cylinder heads to really awful on a diesel engine
@@JayElement13 what? not only am i drunk right now but i dont understand what you just typed
And someone else who knows nothing about how these work and who hasnt tested one for himself. Lol
I swear people who refuse to get their feet wet and actaully try these for themselves are freakin lazy. Lol
Bro all that for a 2.7 4 banger motor. Don’t need the 250 dollar device. Your ECU will over time compensate for the extra air your pulling from your K and N and add more fuel thus giving you your 7 horses for the extra 600 bucks you spent. Let’s see 120 dollars per one HP. Just buy a Borla muffler and get 15-20 horses much easier IMO.
Surprisingly, I actually get better MPGs with an intake. And I've been tempted to do the exhaust, but a good exhaust costs a lot
15-20 hp on a 4 cyl with just the addition of a Borla muffler?....,um ok. I put a full Borla cat back exhaust (Touring ) on my 2016 Chevy 5.3L Silverado and got maybe 10hp. There is a noticeable boost in midrange torque 2000-3500rpm under hard acceleration and man o man it sounds good!
Mark Chance I got a k&N on my 2018 v6 Tacoma SR5 and a MBRP 3” Catback exhaust it’s amazing
what model is that k and n
So just to recap this guy is giving advice then not listening to his own advice. Then expecting to advise us the masses. Ok great job.
Cold sir intakes don't work because, the computers in cars regulate the amount of fuel injected into the engine for the volume of air entering the engine. So there is no benifit exectpt for high rpm there is a small improvement. So, the engine will have to be tuned to benifit for the extra air.
On my truck I did a MAF calibrator. It helped a fair bit at low RPM
Not true.The computer know how to regulate any ammount of air as long as you keep the same RPM range as the car was made (in other words, no custom cams) and you keep the air pressure atmospheric (in other words, no turbo or super charge).
Say that it can't is like say that an ECU can't regulate a car made on a lower atmospheric pressure city if it travel to a city with high one.
Its gotta have them air scoop to accompany it
You won't see much increase with just a intake cause you are not allowing for more to get out. Intake is worth it when you do headers and a high flow muffler.
+Mat Floor that's actually what I'd like to do when I get the money
yea, I working on a 09 Ram 5.7 HEMI. I replaced the muffler with a magna flow. I trying to find headers for it, but for some reason no one seems to have them. If you have any ideas let me know. Then I getting a CAI that is actually mounted to hood and forces air into intake. So it be cold air and forced air.
Also the computer needs to be calibrated for the extra air
To be honest . The resonator is the real restriction
oil clogs and collects dirt paper filters are the best. the engineers design the airbox so you get direct and maximum air flow into your engine. so so theoretically you could put your cold air intake down below where your air box takes in air. might I add also keeps water from getting in your engine especially when you're in a downpour . just a thought :)
Lol, the charcoal filter works like a spark arrester......those 300 dollar air filters are a joke.......you simply dont know what your talking about.......if you want more power, change the engine out for a larger one.
Just remember if you tune it ,it voids your warranty
listen how he says vehicle
Then is it worth the investment or not?
Well it all depends. To me, I'd say yes on vehicles like my Tacoma that otherwise can't get out of its own way. I got a slight bump in gas mileage as well. For the most part, I'd only get a CAI if it's part of a larger build
They don't
Unless you have a turbo or super charger pushing mass amounts of air into the engine that CAI offers ZERO benefits.....except for making you 400 bucks less rich and a loud truck...if your looking to make your truck louder than I would definitely buy a CAI and I just wanted to waste 400 bucks
Do not buy a cooler intake it will mess your car up or car 🚘
How to throw away $500 what
👍
Why did you even installed cold air intake on that truck, what’s the point of that. It’s a pickup Toyota 😂