Do Cold Air Intakes Work? Watch and Find Out
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- In this video I am going to explain why you should buy a cold air intake or should not buy a cold air intake. Are cold air intakes a scam? Do Cold Air Intakes Really work? Are they a Myth that needs to be busted? Are Cold Air Intakes a bad mod? I will explain everything to you.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
I get cold air intake from October to April.
I sleep naked October to April
Pretty much
So true !! 😜 🚗💨💥
If cold air makes so much difference cars in Alaska during the winter show really be something........
Ha,ha me too in Edmonton Alberta,and gas milage is bad compare with summer days.
Let’s keep it simple. Install cold air intake, install performance headers, either straight pipe your exhaust or install performance exhaust, and tune your car. Do all of that and you will have a car with more horsepower
All so you can get to work in the same time you did before.
Or buy a car that came with the performance you wanted in the first place.
K+n filter, n flowmasters muffler. Nuff said
@@marcomoreno8188 in my research Flowmasters are one of the worst flowing mufflers out there, just look at the CFM they Flow compared to other aftermarket performance mufflers. Yeah they Sound Great but there Very restrictive. There will Never be a Flowmaster on any vehicle i own. Tried them out about 15 Years ago on a 5.0 Mustang, a Dynomax Super Turbo outflows them bigtime, as do almost every other Performance Muffler out there.
Just run no air filter tightwad good for 10hp
Don't forget that if you're CAI comes with stickers, you get +5HP for each sticker
Yaaaaayyyyyy, I get 15 HP! 😀
And they're nice and shiny! Yaaaaayyyyy!😁
Not true! The internet said 10!
It only helps if you have the COMPLETE update to the intake & exhaust of the engine with a tune. BBK long headers with flowmaster cat back exhaust and tune would need cold air intake for example. Cold air intake ALONE won't do shit of course LOL.
Old joke. Slow clap.
You already have cold air intake! Its just not all fancy looking and works with your car's MAF like its supposed to!
I just installed a K&N cone filter to my 2010 Tundra with 5.7L today. IT DOES WORK! it gained between 5-10 hp for sure, clearly a more nimble, lighter, faster drive. More noticeable over 1500-2000 RPM's. The sound is a nice plus.
What kind of dyno did you get it on? What were the numbers? I'm interested in getting a cold air intake as well
Be careful with K and n filters, there prone to getting really dirty and can dirty up your engine which can kill your car
@@herniagaming Absolutely true. K&Ns are designed more like a sieve than like a filter, so yeah, the engine runs faster and also dies faster 😂
Particulate/dust filtration is barely acceptable on a new or freshly oiled, filter, but drops pretty drastically with just a few hundred miles on the odo. Clean your K&Ns every 2-5 thousand miles depending on the dust in your driving environment.
None of this is is a concern if longevity isn't, er, a concern😅
In my experience they can make a difference but it is small. To really benefit you need to also upgrade the exhaust and then reprogram the ECU. Just replacing the air intake won't make much difference.
Yeah I'm surprised R & W didn't talk about the need to reprogram the ECU to really take advantage of the gains.
True. Modern cars will simply dump more fuel into engine and nothing more because so much more air is coming through. And that will be at all speeds from 0 mph and up. Tried a K&N Typhoon system and it made the mpgs drop to half with normal driving. Drove slower and idled rough. Got my money back.
@@FCT8306onTwoWheels exactly.
davva360 I installed a K&N CAÍ and I noticed a good bump. Good enough to feel a difference. It depends on what kind of engine you’re installing it in. My 5.4 breathes like a Bull now and I’m completely satisfied with my upgrade
davva360 I have a 91 integra , I did the intake , header , and exhaust and My car got lousy gas mileage and had less power. I had to change the computer to ODB1 and add a 94-2000 integra Distributer and have it Dyno Tuned and then it ran proper , So I added a Vtec GSR Head on my B18A Problem Solved
Having been in the ‘mod’ game for many years I agree with you on many points. It really depends on the car, the application, and how well executed. Recently though I stumbled on an ancient article 😂 done in the ‘80s about just this topic done by some engineers. One thing to note was that auto manufacturers didn’t just make the air boxes with resonators to kill noise- it was also to keep intake system pressurized, so air was constantly on demand . Ever notice on some cars with SRIS (short ram intake system) it feels a bit ‘boggish’ when first going? The intake system isn’t pressurized and needs to ‘suck’ air in, which we all love that sound, but your actually losing low end torque too, it’s bogging out. Super rich on low rpms, then really lean with higher rpms, which is good if tuned properly, but can prematurely wear your engine.
And ya, usually the factory system is colder than an aftermarket 90% of the time. (Depends on the aftermarket system though)
I chose to go with a high flow filter in stock system since my old arse intake doesn’t use the typical AIT filament sensor, which yes, the oil on a wet filter can ruin. If I had a newer car, I’d run a dry filter in stock location and open up the exhaust piping from the down pipe back to no more than 2.25” on a NA car.
On turbo, bigger downpipe and exhaust is crucial for spoolup, but that’s a whole other topic😂
Nice vid!
So you think can i put a air intake on 97 nissan maxima??
Tony Cervantes what the hell, go nuts dude😂😂😂
@@amjedalbalushi9707 ????? I dont understand bro
Tony Cervantes nothing man😂😂😂😂😂
@@amjedalbalushi9707
Bro i just try to say if a put a intake on my 97 nissAn maxima if work yes o no. Can u tell me bro
FINALLY, someone explaining the reality of so called "cold air intakes." Unless it is DUCTING air from outside of the engine compartment, like the stock system does, it is NOT a "cold air" intake. I see so many younger people putting a system on their car so that the engine draws in hot air, because their friends, people on RUclips, and the marketing companies told them that the system draws in "cold air" by the very name of the kit, and these same people seem to totally ignore common sense that tells them this is not true. Thank you for explaining it to them.
I was expecting dyno runs or some sort of objective evidence....
Me too what a waste of time, no further forwards
What was his point ???? And wow, there's 450 k of followers listening to the rubbish...... Keep drinking the kool aid people.....
Same here. I was waiting to see if he does somethig or installs any cold intake system. Just a waste of time and too much talk. I can google and read any information in internet but if you could show how it is done and compare products it would have been alot better. Thanks anyway.
His method is better, he explained how it could increase power and what to look for. Also, his advice applies to all vehicles. A dyno test would only apply to one vehicle and intake combination, which is all over RUclips anyways. Just search for "cold air intake dyno" and you will find plenty of dyno tests, all with different results. A dyno test is useless unless you happen to have that exact same type of vehicle and you are planning on getting an intake exactly like the one tested, other than that its useless since results from one make and model of vehicle can not be accurately extrapolated to others, the results will vary dramatically depending on the intake, the vehicle the intake is installed on, and what other mods that vehicle has.
@@averyalexander2303 well said
I have a turbo diesel. Once i installed the CAI i noticed it's more responsive from stand still take off. It used to bottom out most of the time before the power delivery. Now that it's got CAI it's less laggy and more punchy. Now I'm not saying it makes noticable hp gains but a definite difference picking up speed more fluently.
Cold air intakes and Short Ram intakes by design do potentially perform better if your air box is very restrictive. This is dependent on the design of said vehicle. Not all vehicles are the same. The only way to really get cold air benefits on a short ram intake is by customizing the front grill so as you get up to speed air can blow directly through, onto the filter itself. Personally I like this method better than a long tubed cold air intake because the cold air intakes even though they are placed farther away, the pipes still get very hot all the way up top to bottom so the main benefit from a cold air intake is that it runs more efficiently but still doesn't guarantee much colder air. If you want the coldest air possible you have to have that filter sticking either outside the hood or very low to the ground where it's nearly scraping (Bad for Rainy days) for air to blow directly on it. True cold air comes from air blowing right onto the filter. Other things to consider is use some heat resistant tubing for your piping as most aluminum can get very hot in summer which can almost guarantee hot air regardless of placement. How you configure your setup is really what counts. For maximum efficiency it takes some custom work if you want the coolest air for your intake.
My setup I chose is a short ram but it doesn't go directly across. It hangs more down, plus I added my own custom heat shield and I cut a portion of plastic off the front just behind the front grill so air can flow through and blow directly onto the filter itself as you get more speed. Overall I really liked my setup as I live in an area where it gets really hot in summer time.
Weather is also a huge factor.
If you were to compare the performance of a regular Short Ram Intake in cold weather vs a Cold Air Intake used during a Hot Summer. The short Ram would more likely perform better. Customizing to get the most out of your setup is the best thing you can do if you want max performance.
I mounted a mini fridge on my hood and run my intake through that. I gained 100hp and have a great place to store beer.
🤣🤣😂😂
I am on the fence about getting a cold air intake.Having gone to the track many times in my life--from stock cars to full blown race cars--90% or more had cold air intakes.Also--when I walked around and looked at factory race cars--they also all had cold air intakes.I wish there was just some honesty about this when you ask your local dealer about a cold air intake and you can literally get a different answer from all of them.The cold air intakes also on factory race cars--looked very similar to what you could buy for your stock car.BMW--M--AMG--Ford Racing-Honda and Acura racing--Porsche--all of them had intakes.The manufacturers need to just be honest-The computers--and I was told this by engineers at the track--all can instantly adjust for air and if you give them more air at a higher cooler rate--it will generate extra power.I mean a modern car has to run in Alaska--and in death valley--huge temp and air density differences.Some dealerships also will put K & N air filters on their cars--and some high performance--like saleen--will even put cold air intakes on their cars that are still under factory warranty--yet the service department will say it is useless--void the warranty--etc.i doubt all these race teams would do this--but the car companies need to get service advisors and this type of mod on the same page.
I found on my 2014 Mustang the CAI doesn't work as good as the stock airbox until you tightly cover the filter and basin. Therefore air is forced into the system instead of much being wasted into the engine bay. Once you do that you can definitely feel the difference B)
My cousin Johnny was misinformed about about intakes, he got into an argument with his mechanic and send him to the emergency room.
I put a cold air intake system on my old 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT and it turned that car into a beast! My low and mid-range torque went thru the roof!
That Audi already has a literal cold air setup. I cant imagine any other setup would be better for the coldest air possible.
I like intake noise!
Some engines won't respond at all unless reprogrammed to take advantage of the greater, cooler airflow. Some systems are more forgiving and may actually automatically compensate. Whereas others may throw a code. Or the engine doesn't run right. And another BIG issue is hydro locking if the aftermarket didn't design in enough splash guarding. Manufacturers spend thousands of hours and millions of $$ to design a lot of these intake systems to do everything everywhere, no matter what the weather throws at one.
I use a cold air intake on my 2006 Focus, not because I was looking for power, but because the car's air filter was supposed to be "Lifetime" (and obviously it wasn't) and it was going to be $800 to replace the filter because the entire system is sealed, or $200 for a cold air intake.
That being said, I still have the same MPG as before because I monitored it for the fun of it, pre and post CAI. Been using that system now for more than 3 years without a single problem
$60.00 for the sealed unit these days...
On my '12 i4 accord I removed the pre induction tube silencer and added a drop in filter. These accords take air flow very well and I have way better response and sounds great on the crossover from 2nd to 3rd. Slightly modded air box but I love it. Rather tan spending 250 or 300 for a brand name CAI
Great marketing lie. You are usually removing the factory cold air intake, then adding a hot air intake that’s just called a cold air intake. All four of my vehicles get air from the grill or behind the fender with the stock setup(cold air). Why would you want hot air from the engine bay? Less power more noise. The days of poor factory design intakes are long gone.
Yea, but when you run through deep water eith that fender sucker, have fun replacing the engine :D
*if the filter doesnt stop it
Something like a K&N drop in panel filter will work out much better. Seen as you was considering cold air intakes which use the same or less restrictive filtration anyway. Sometimes you can modify your air box from the bottom. Cutting a circle out of it and attaching piping to the bottom and feeding it to the bottom part of your car where the grill is. Then it feeds even more cold air when needed. This would be much better solution than a cone shaped or something similar cold air intake.
this, plus the K&N reusable filters sound great
I put on a CAI that goes beneath the engine for my sports car...noticed a huge power/acceleration increase immediately. It even has a better exhaust note.
I have to keep the OEM intake because the replacement CAI won't pass SMOG tests in Ca.
So, every two years the car feels like it's driving through mud, towing a train...at least until the SMOG test is over.
I installed a CAI in my 5.4 and I noticed a good gain. Since air is less restricted my truck has better performance.
Put one on my 4.3 blazer. Also have a cat delete. Took the time to use hp tuners to adjust the ve tables and maf calibration. It made a great deal of improvement in my throttle response. Also gave the engine a nice growl under the hood. As OEM air boxes are designed for noise reduction.
Worked great on my old 89 and 92 ford rangers where back in them days they had warm air intake ,I took and modified them to have cold air only and really can tell the difference in power increase for sure and actually better fuel mileage .
My cars intake was already a straight pipe so all I did was upgrade the filter for better air flow and can honestly feel the difference
This question was answered 50yrs ago. Cars from the 60s anyway, many came with cold air intakes.....esp performance cars. The general rule of thumb is cold air makes for a 10% torque gain over hot under hood air. Race cars usually have some cold air setup. A higher cfm filter can help at higher rpms. Usually the web doesn't make people smarter, hence millions of pod style filters sold today. Pod filters usually ruin motorcycle performance also eliminating air box cooler air.
Shazam that's why the '71 mustang mach one made 370 horses than the '70 only making 330
modern racecars almost always have ram air, not a cai
The best 4x4 channel on youtube allready covered this 10 years agooo
I put the cold air intake on my 2013 Ram, along with headers and intake spacer. I know it help keep the airflow cooler. Along with 190 degree thermostat, you really have to work to get the oil temp much above 200. I've done some heavy towing with it and wouldn't change a thing.
Depends on the car, on my 3g Eclipse I didn’t notice any difference whatsoever, but on my new DC5 type S I noticed a huge difference, even with just a short ram, not even a cold air intake...
DareDevilDog DAVE i agree, they have different uses but ram air is nice because it improves throttle response
That was a great, clear explanation of using a CAI properly. I’ve seen many a vehicle with a CAI that has not met the criteria you explained. Hopefully this film will help save some kids a lot of money.
It does work man you just gotta tune it after. That's what Scotty said too
Something tells me you both haven't measured intake restriction before and haven't thought about how it affects the operation of a turbo engine. Your Audi is particularly interesting in that it controls boost to maintain a set air mass flow target rather than a boost pressure.
I'm happy to go into the maths of it if you want, but the short version is that less intake restriction lowers throttle lag, intercooler heat loading and exhaust manifold backpressure.
Yeah . maths is involved here
Great video! Also don't cold air intakes usually get dirtier quicker so if you aren't changing them regularly then you get less airflow...
I have a 2006 ford fusion v6 a d i put a cai on it u can feel it has a little more power but the biggest differnce is the sound its sounds so much better
I bought a Spectre air intake at Autozone for my 1995 Corolla Automatic, when i put it on i felt like such a badass and i thought i could beat anything!! I was 17, ah i miss the good old innocent days :)
Thanks very informative! I don't plan to use a cold air intake but a dry flow filter rather. Not after performance gains which I doubt there is any but rather the fact that I could clean and reuse them.
they pass tooooo much dirt in exchange for a couple horsepower at 6,000 rpm.
Clean and reoil every 5,000 miles.
Then 200 miles later clean the oil off your masd aur meter.
NOBODY DOES IT
@@hotrodray6802 I've been using an AEM dry flow filter for a year now and so far its okay. I just dust it off with a blower every 2 weeks and wash clean with their filter cleaner every 5000km or 3 months, no need to oil unlike K&N. I clean my maf sensor and throttle body yearly as part of maintenance.
Excellent video. It’s critical to isolate the filter side of the cold air intake. To do this, you’ll have to make modifications to the car including cutting holes in sheet metal.
wears gloves, literally does not touch anything entire time.
:-/
Probably because he needed to touch his camera.
Always like your material. You are very clever and skilled as both a mechanic and a teacher.
I'm still trying to figure out who buys a cold air intake that actually stops in the engine compartment. Isn't that called a short team intake instead of cold air intake. Because cold air intake is going down in front of the tire well Where the factory piping is. Which picks up cold air.
I recently bought an K&n intake for my Mazda B2500 pickup truck on eBay for $170
Brand new cost $355
And based on my experience I would have to agree with his statement. It really does depend on the vehicle.
For my truck, it does make a significant difference. Nothing crazy, but it does perform a bit better. Especially when I step on the gas on 3rd or 4th gear. It responds a lot better. Gives it a little boost
It was a great purchase for $170
I wouldn’t pay $355
Not worth that much money in my opinion.
Seriously a cai works fantastic as long as it has a direct air feed and heat shield. Out performs any standard air intake on any day.
At points it almost seems like you are confusing short ram intakes for legit cold air intakes. You use shields for short rams. Cold air intakes go behind the fender still
Yup,but it has to actually be getting cold air. My 2015 focus (naturally aspirated)takes in colder air stock than with a cai from roush racing. A K&N filter is a better deal for this car without a lot of surgery.
I was expecting you to compare performance on a cold air intake vs stock 😐
it doesn't mean anything, it entirely depends on the stock settup. Ram air is the best by far, cai can be good in some circumstances, and stock is fine under most circumstances, unless the oem one was designed badly, you won't see any noticable gain or feel any gain, and if you do it's because of placebo
Only way to really know if something works is to dyno your vehicle after the mods.
For small gains you still won't know because the dyno results are affected by temps, air pressure and humidity.
lets be serious for a minute. The only reason to add a CAI is for that sweet sweet induction noise. vroom vroom sounds add about 30 speed.
Interestingly enough, one of my vehicles happens to have a intake that is not heated once but twice. I have a pre-heat tube that basically sucks the air past one of the exhaust manifolds (heating the air) then it is fed straight into the air filter housing. The second part is a little more complicated, basically on all v6 engines you will have 6 intake ports, 3 per head... Well I actually have 12 on the intake side of the heads, the exhaust not only flows out the exhaust manifolds but it flows through my intake manifold from one side of the engine to the direct opposite side.. so cylinder 1-2 feed into each other, and 3-4 and 5-6 are all basically connected like an H-Pipe exhaust for example but on the inside of my intake. This super heats the entire intake on my engine to extremely high temps that will burn you instantly if you touch it as would the exhaust manifolds. Its also important to note that I have throttle body injection wich means this set up is heating the FUEL as well as the air.. that makes a huge difference and is the reason why this works so well. On a direct injected motor this set up would perform poorly. The reason for this was to limit emissions from the engine 33 years ago.
Just put less restrictive filters in the stock air box.
yep..that's the best
Might as well seen as cold air intakes tend to always use the same sort of filtration or less restrictive filtration compared to OEM drop in filters so something like a K&N drop in panel filter will work out much better. Sometimes you can modify your air box from the bottom. Cutting a circle out of it and attaching piping to the bottom and feeding it to the bottom part of your car where the grill is. Then it feeds even more cold air when needed. This would be much better solution than a cone shaped or something similar cold air intake.
i did that. cut a hole in the airbox for more air to come in. got more mpg sounds louder too
In the dead of winter in Michigan, I'll stick with the factory set-up. Thanks for the info and keep it coming.
save yourself 8 mins. no cold air intakes do not equate to more power.
But they sound nicer
doug Fresh1980 depends on the intake my Jettas engine cover is the intake .. 4 ft of curved plastic hot air
Imtakes work when you do all the other upgrades like headers - full exhaust etc.
Intakes are only a part of the equation
I put one on my wrangler a few years ago. And noticed a pretty good increase. Especially in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Don't know what this guy is talking about
My car came standard with air pulled in from the front. There are kits to ruin that function but they look neat.
You'll gain some horsepower until your CAI gets heat soaked. Open air element CAIs seem to be better suited for when you're already moving i.e. on a track. Drag racing, not so much, unless you don't give it a chance to heat soak.
At 29 degrees outside, my GT350 intake inlet air temp was 96 degrees at idle. Once I drive around a bit? Goes down to 34 degrees. Faster you go, the faster the temp goes down. Closed airboxes don't have this problem. Wish someone made a lid for the 350 CAI...
Your talking about a ram air intake. Cai filter are in the wheel well
Another issue that you don't mention is how the stock ECU measures the air taken into the engine. The factory MAF/MAP sensor may be 'confused' by a less restrictive/different intake. The stock ECU will be optimized for a number of factors, not necessarily just power.
For your BiTurbo you may be better off spending money on tuning, rather than upgrading physical parts which may (or may not) make a power difference.
this video gets a thumb down just for not mentioning the diffrence between a cai & srai- which he was basically describing in the video. i was very skeptical when putting a cheap srai with k&n air filter because i expected no performance gains & i expected to waste more gas but to be honest it actually seems to be doing better on gas which no one is mentioning here. it also gives my engine a nice little hum at idle. i understand to each his own but my suggestion is to not knock something based on here say try things for yourself & think for yourself instead of buying in on propaganda. And for added horse power it only makes a slight diffrence in torque at higher rpm's just like he mentioned.
Positive displacement superchargers are very sensitive to intake restrictions so opening up the intake on a pd supercharged car can have big gains
I can guarantee if you have tubing running to the cold air intake directly drawing from outside the engine bay as well as shielding there will be an increase in HP and torque but the increase would be low as in maximum 5 HP and torque increase likely. This would translate to basically no effect in noticeable performance, the main thing it would do is make your engine sound nicer and likely dirty up your engine more lol
damn. that casual intro joke tho 😂
Cold air intake is not a tube with a filter placed randomly in the engine bay, cold air intake is a n intake placed in such a way that allows "cold" air from the outside, not saturated in heat from the engine bay
Yes comes down to computer system and engine. Same as plumbing or HVAC, the more bends or transitions from one size to another greatly affect the airflow and velocity. The cooler the air the denser it is also the more velocity the more air can go in also mix with fuel better. Same as exhaust, run narrow tubes to keep the velocity up for more torque for trucks ( that dont see high rpm) the best would be start off big diameter at filter and slowly get narrower to the throttle body but never go back up in size before throttle body.
The factory system is a cold air intake system.These aftermarket intake kits,they create horsepower loss and there have been tests done proving this.Plus the reusable air filter causes problems in the cold air intake systems if it has a mass air flow sensor.The oil from them gets on the heating element kill in the mass air flow sensor and kills it.
It kills it,burns out the heating element.Had this with a 2002 Tahoe which the K&N air filter was tossed in the trash.
cold air intakes were invented to make money for aftermarket companies, and some little piss ant company is not going to out engineer Toyota, or Honda, or GM, etc. This is the problem with nearly all mods. And even if you found one that really does work, you are going to give up a huge amount of fuel mileage, and no longer pass emissions, etc.
I love how something becomes a certified fact because someone said it happened to them. Once.
That's because dumbasses over oil the filter and when they drive off the excessive amount of oil that's left on the filter gets sucked into the intake and messes up the maf, if you don't know how to properly service a cotton filter than you probably shouldn't own one.
Walter Frederick obviously never seen a 2.5 mk5 Jetta the engine cover is the intake lol
I suppose the best method would be to have less restriction on filter but double skinned pipes and filter housing all metal and made like a thermos flask so the heat from the engine won’t affect the air intake. However this would probably be very pricey and require more space in the engine bay.
Great video, it explained a lot. I always wonder the different between the intakes systems and cold air set up.
nice intro about people being hospitalized, you had me paying attention like "whaaaat cold air intake taking people to the hospital?", funny intro!
especially if you have a ram air intake like that audi, just get a reusable air filter instead of a disposable one, if you wanted to get fancy you could even add more routs into the air box with excess piping, that would do a lot more than a CAI system, especially if it was designed to look good first, and preform second.
Most top level modern racecars use ram air intakes anyways
Well, in Finland it does get kinda cold in the winter. And, you can use a large(r) front intake to push more air in, at the expence of aerodynamics. What intrests me, is whether there is any MPG gain with (or without) lean burn mods on a suitable engine.
I dont care about more power, what I do want is the engine to run as it was intended. Not being choked down.
If you have the ability to get a scan tool check your air intake temp before and after the swap.
Also record ambient temperature during your test.
Great video ... I blew apart my filter box in my alero so I had no choice of putting one in
So.....a stock air intake gets air from outside of the engine compartment. A "cold air intake" gets air from inside the engine compartment. Hmmmm.
No, not inside the engine compartment but down below in the fender well in front away from the engine.
97 Chevy Silverado 5.7 added high flow k&n filter into factory housing and it definitely had noticeably better throttle response and a bit more pep. Kept the factory cool air..did away with it's restrictive filter. It worked.
I'm no expert, but newer cars have what is know as adaptive fuel trim, so if you put in a high flow filter, which flows more air, you may get a power increase at first do to the slightly leaner fuel mixture, that's if you have a car that runs on the fat side. So after readapting you power level may drop back to normal for that car. I think gains come from more air in and exhaust out ( less restrictive exhaust ) use thinner oil, go down one size in tires width. That my 2 cents probably all wrong🤔
I do use k&n filters, to me the intake noise is different, which to me just sounds cool.
Upgrade to Cold Air Intake if...
You can get Colder Air
It will be Less Restrictive
You have a Healthy Exhaust System
Your Car can Match the Increased Air with Increased Fuel
Again No Politics.
Thank You R&W!
This video is what is exactly wrong with the pro and con CAI arguments - speculation and assumptions. No evidence presented, no tests conducted, not even any reporting on tests that have been done. Also the logic presented is flawed. Why would forced induction engines be less likely to benefit from a CAI - because they are sucking in so much air volume that a CAI would not make that much difference? How does that make sense? Wouldn't the fact that they are drawing in so much volume mean that any little change in air temps would actually mean a bigger benefit exactly because of the larger air volume? Sorry, but this is not a very informative presentation and you done nothing to help arguments, pro or con.
The installation of the CAI might be, in theory, giving the system the ability to draw in a larger volume of air. But in the case of forced induction, let's say a turbo, the turbo is already causing a larger volume of air to be drawn in, even without the CAI. So the use of a CAI to increase the volume of air might not be of any benefit. But again it all depends on the vehicle and the setup of the vehicle. As for temperatures with a forced induction engine (turbo), the colder air that a CAI might bring in would probably be negated because of the turbo itself. Since the turbo is drawing in so much air, and then compressing it, the compression is actually raising the temperature of the air higher than what is being drawn in at the intake, even with a CAI. Hence an intercooler is used after the turbo in order to cool the compressed air before it gets sent to the engine. That's why, as the video mentions, an upgrade to the intercooler would probably be much more beneficial than a CAI in getting colder air into the engine.
HooverTuber I’m confused by this video as well. Lots of speculation, no facts, no reports or case studies. Just a guy giving his opinion like at any car meet anywhere ever. Yawn.
In terms of the turbo, intercoolers help, but they are only so effective. Cooler air in, means cooler air out, hotter air in means hotter out. So cooling the air before the intercooler is highly beneficial. A few degrees can make the difference before the ECU decides to pull timing and impact performance.
Kk,
The turbo boost is regulated at a certain pressure. As long as the turbo is getting enough air to maintain this pressure, putting a less restrictive air system before the turbo won't help. Like he said a more efficient intercooler would help because the air is denser and more air is available to burn the fuel unless it's a high humidity day and water condenses in the intercooler and gets sucked into the engine like the ecoboost does.
Cold air intakes are good bolt ons for bigger builds and more in depth set ups. Short answer is no Timmy’s Honda will not blow the doors off a hellcat with a cai but a built motor with cams and long tubes and full exhaust will need a much more open air intake system
As a car is driving the hot air is being blown to the rear of the car! So with a pod filter or cold air induction system that’s beside or in front of the engine, it will still bring in cold air unless it’s mounted behind the engine, that’s why no one has ever mounted a air intake like that. It’s just engineering and if you don’t get that then you shouldn’t be posting incorrect theory’s like this .
Stick a temp gauge in the intake tube near the throttle body.
$10 to $300.
You can get a good one to watch while youre driving for $60.
Great video. Good breakdown. Thanks
What about the turbo? As is if adds no heat. That turbo will heat the air to a couple of hundred degrees and the cold air intake will make almost zero difference.
Instead of a cold air intake, what about a high flow filter in a stock air box? Any gains?
Mike Gould , yes, I just watched a video and they did actual live Dyno Testing. the K&N drop in stock airbox got about 6 hp gain. very good for just changing out an air filter
Worked like a champ on my old 350 vortec.
Yes they will work; however if they are not kept almost 100% clean and oiled your piston rings will be worn put faster than you can blink .
The engine in the Pontiac looks the same and got the same layout as my mums 1994 Vauxhall Astra lol
You might encounter a lean condition fault code because of the max range of the short term fuel trim.
For me it's depending on the manufacturer some do work and some don't depending on the year, make, and model of your car , truck,suv amd engine size
I hate that aftermarket intakes are marketed as a product that gives you instant gains after installing. Without tuning, its pretty much a waste of money. When done correctly, the gains are about 4-5% increase in your engine horsepower...and those gains don't kick in until about 4-5+k RPM.
A cold air intake can improve performance if the air comes in from down below in the fender well in front, that way you're always getting cooler air.
Very good video with your points extremely well-made.
More air is good. But it has to get out. I always start from the backend. Less restrictive exhaust.
Chad Pugh that’s what she said 😏 #classic
Not just less restrictive, but also tuned to properly channel the exhaust gas out effectively from each cylinder to allow efficient flow dynamics, notably, sequence and temperature . More often than not, a bigger pipe doesn’t mean better flow, it just means more likely overall potential to flow better.
Need to have a little back pressure to keep a little pressure in the combustion chamber ,a lot of guys think more flow is better but it isnt all the case in the dynamics of it to ensure proper tuning of the exhaust system.
My 2c, not that I'm an expert, more of a 'dabbler' 🤣
Ecu tuning isn't mandatory.
On NA gasoline engines >3.5L (or >2L turbo) simply replacing a dirty filter with a stock clean filter will result in measurable bhp gains of around 2%. Free flow drop-in filters with the stock airbox boost the hp by ~3%, more importantly provide a 'snappy' throttle response. Complete CAI kits are a bit of a gamble. Stock airbox resonance is tuned to match the peak torque rpm, so changing the box and pipes can (and frequently do) result in 'peaky' feeling engines which aren't very satisfying to drive every day, except, maybe on a racetrack.
On smaller/slower car engines (
better to use stock system and just connect a hose from your cabin AC under dash box to your air engine intakes before the filters of course for a true cold air intake...cheaper too
The real deal cold air intakes are old school for old school cars and it's called cowl induction. Had it on my 88 and it worked really good.
The Ecotec will work better once you get rid of the large air box resonator/muffler/silencer in the fender. And watch for baffling in OE intake systems.
On your Audi just change the filter to performance one ie K&N ect you already have cold air induction
Nice content, definitely subbed 😤👨🔧
When you already have a stock Cold Air Intake and then you make a video about "Is it a bad mod?".
You already have a CAI...