Hello, let me know what you think of the plane. It works, and there's always a little more tuning that can be done along the way. What would you have done differently? Jamie
And yesterday this said same plane helped me run a bevel out at the back of a drawer I created for my tool chest! Worked a treat! Thanks Jamie and Robert for a job superbly done!!!🎉🎉🎉
10K subs! Woohoo! Well earned matey. Thought it was just a matter of time until Veritas did their version of that honing guide. Love those Naniwa stones too. I find the slurry from my Shapton Glass far too sticky for any significant amount of lapping. Naniwa are right in the sweet spot for me; not too soft and not too sticky.
Next? Maybe the corners of the number 4 and a halves. I think there's 3 planes (you've got one) and 4 corner tips broken off. I've not found anything like that on the Internet. That would be an achievement to see if they could almost be invisible!!
Hi buddy you’ve put a lot of time and effort into getting this plane up and running again. Much respect for your patience and determination. Congratulations on 10k subs it takes a lot of hard work to achieve well done buddy. 👍
Hey Paul. Thanks. The use of David Charlesworth ruler trick again 🙈 It was the best thing for this plane. I still can't bring myself to do it to any of my others... Except one. And that was a messed up iron too.
@@twcmaker Old habits die hard. However, rather than polish the whole back I apply the ruler trick to all my plane irons, including my LNs. I feel I get better results too. I might be wrong but I seem to remember that Charlesworth combines that tiny back bevel with another third (tertiary), virtually imperceptible, bevel on the front side; so there's a grinding bevel, honing bevel and this tertiary bevel at a few degrees steeper than the actual honing bevel. That's what I understand by the tertiary bevel but as I say I could be way off!
Blimey it's getting a bit too much for me. I'm happy with the results I get. But I suppose more importantly, when you're teaching others. I feel it's better to keep it simple for chisels and plane blades. Someone has only got to 'DCRT' the end of a 1" chisel and I'd get the blame for it 🙈 So flat backs, no cutting corners.. Unless they're all for it and it's their responsibility, not mine. And people do make mistakes. Take the people who watch Rex Kruger videos and think that you should attack every surface with a plane. And they then think that the speed and a heavy hand is the most important thing as far as planing wood down. As they say, a little knowledge.. 😉
Hi, another interesting video, is it a steel bodied plane, I can't think that a cast iron body would bend, not break, its always good to see an old plane put back to working order.
Yeah.. Old boys sometimes, just get so close. 🤔 Was he anywhere near a pub? 😉 Badger planes are (imo), usually skew blade, with a hole in the side to do a bit of a rebate.
Nice job Jamie, but here is the $65,000 question, with respect, if you had to do this again (let's say it happened to your plane) would you do it again? Does the amount of effort (quite significant I think) justify the outcome or would you simply replace the plane (Stanley 10 1/2 are not that uncommon)? Interested to hear your thoughts.
I'd do it again. I didn't even have to think about it. And I'd get Robert to heat it up a third time and get it a bit closer. Its worth knowing how to do it. But also, It's worth trying to get it a bit closer. Keep learning. If there was a Stanley no10 incomplete.. 🤔 I'd probably use it as practice to see if I could get it back on my own.
I have a partial (as in, missing some parts) Stanley 78 rabbet plane that I'm working on a bit. I can see that it appears to have a notable convexity to its sole. I haven't measured it, but a convexity is obvious when I offer a good straightedge to the sole: I can see light leaking from either side, might be as much as a half mm on either side. Do you have any recommendations about how to go about flattening the sole properly? I haven't gotten it into a state yet where I've attempted taking shavings, so perhaps I'm ahead of myself a bit and should confirm there's actually an issue with its function. That said, I'm finding it difficult to flatten on my granite slab setup. I suspect what's happening is that as I move my hands to and fro, the sole rocks on its belly instead of evenly abrading against the sand paper.
On the stone, I was always taught to put a mirror finish on the back of the blade . Unlike you we did 45 degrees left stonside then right stone side, but the results aren’t as good as yours.
Ahh. I've seen people do that. And also seen varying cross patterns on the back. Thank you. And the plane worked pretty good too. Plenty of room for more tuning as and when the owner feels the need.
@@twcmaker I’m going to try your technique. To be honest, the results look better with the straight horizontal stone surfing, than at 45 degrees. "Stone surfing ". I just invented that 😝
Hello, let me know what you think of the plane. It works, and there's always a little more tuning that can be done along the way.
What would you have done differently?
Jamie
And yesterday this said same plane helped me run a bevel out at the back of a drawer I created for my tool chest! Worked a treat! Thanks Jamie and Robert for a job superbly done!!!🎉🎉🎉
@@matt9566 Wonderful. That's great to hear. Thank you Matt
And remember you can choose to tune that plane a little more. It could be a firm favourite in time.
Cheers
10K subs! Woohoo! Well earned matey.
Thought it was just a matter of time until Veritas did their version of that honing guide. Love those Naniwa stones too. I find the slurry from my Shapton Glass far too sticky for any significant amount of lapping. Naniwa are right in the sweet spot for me; not too soft and not too sticky.
Hey James. Yes Naniwa are excellent.. To the point where I don't feel the need to go Shapton.
@@twcmaker Amazing for knives but a bit overrated for chisels etc, IMO.
As I say. I just don't feel the need. Latest stone is a King 800. That should be good. Especially for £25.
Hi Jamie , glad to see it up and running again , an interesting project , what shall we do next 🤔😉👍
Regards
Robert
Partsmade
Next? Maybe the corners of the number 4 and a halves. I think there's 3 planes (you've got one) and 4 corner tips broken off. I've not found anything like that on the Internet. That would be an achievement to see if they could almost be invisible!!
The 10 1/2 is a very handy little plane. I use as a shoulder plane and a rebate plane frequently.
That's great to hear.
Hi buddy you’ve put a lot of time and effort into getting this plane up and running again. Much respect for your patience and determination. Congratulations on 10k subs it takes a lot of hard work to achieve well done buddy. 👍
Cheers Chris 👍
Very nice job ❤
Thanks Stuart
Great video Jamie.
Hey Paul. Thanks. The use of David Charlesworth ruler trick again 🙈
It was the best thing for this plane. I still can't bring myself to do it to any of my others... Except one. And that was a messed up iron too.
@@twcmaker Old habits die hard. However, rather than polish the whole back I apply the ruler trick to all my plane irons, including my LNs. I feel I get better results too. I might be wrong but I seem to remember that Charlesworth combines that tiny back bevel with another third (tertiary), virtually imperceptible, bevel on the front side; so there's a grinding bevel, honing bevel and this tertiary bevel at a few degrees steeper than the actual honing bevel. That's what I understand by the tertiary bevel but as I say I could be way off!
Blimey it's getting a bit too much for me.
I'm happy with the results I get. But I suppose more importantly, when you're teaching others. I feel it's better to keep it simple for chisels and plane blades. Someone has only got to 'DCRT' the end of a 1" chisel and I'd get the blame for it 🙈
So flat backs, no cutting corners.. Unless they're all for it and it's their responsibility, not mine.
And people do make mistakes. Take the people who watch Rex Kruger videos and think that you should attack every surface with a plane. And they then think that the speed and a heavy hand is the most important thing as far as planing wood down.
As they say, a little knowledge.. 😉
@@twcmaker yes, i know what you mean, totally
Hi, another interesting video, is it a steel bodied plane, I can't think that a cast iron body would bend, not break, its always good to see an old plane put back to working order.
It's a cast iron body. Hang on. It could be cast steel. I can't remember now. Robert might come on here and say.
@@twcmakerHi gang , it behaved like cast iron , so on reflection it could well be Malleable iron
Regards
Robert
Partsmade
Years ago an old boy told me that this was a Badger. I've never heard anyone else call them this .
Yeah.. Old boys sometimes, just get so close. 🤔 Was he anywhere near a pub? 😉
Badger planes are (imo), usually skew blade, with a hole in the side to do a bit of a rebate.
Nice job Jamie, but here is the $65,000 question, with respect, if you had to do this again (let's say it happened to your plane) would you do it again? Does the amount of effort (quite significant I think) justify the outcome or would you simply replace the plane (Stanley 10 1/2 are not that uncommon)? Interested to hear your thoughts.
I'd do it again. I didn't even have to think about it. And I'd get Robert to heat it up a third time and get it a bit closer.
Its worth knowing how to do it. But also, It's worth trying to get it a bit closer.
Keep learning. If there was a Stanley no10 incomplete.. 🤔 I'd probably use it as practice to see if I could get it back on my own.
I have a partial (as in, missing some parts) Stanley 78 rabbet plane that I'm working on a bit. I can see that it appears to have a notable convexity to its sole. I haven't measured it, but a convexity is obvious when I offer a good straightedge to the sole: I can see light leaking from either side, might be as much as a half mm on either side. Do you have any recommendations about how to go about flattening the sole properly? I haven't gotten it into a state yet where I've attempted taking shavings, so perhaps I'm ahead of myself a bit and should confirm there's actually an issue with its function. That said, I'm finding it difficult to flatten on my granite slab setup. I suspect what's happening is that as I move my hands to and fro, the sole rocks on its belly instead of evenly abrading against the sand paper.
That's the worst way, it's much harder to work with to correct.
Maybe carefully grip it in a vice and file the middle part out. Worth a try.
@@twcmaker❤
I have a record badger jack plane. I haven’t sharpened and cleaned it yet.
Badger? Is that how you know this plane?
On the stone, I was always taught to put a mirror finish on the back of the blade . Unlike you we did 45 degrees left stonside then right stone side, but the results aren’t as good as yours.
Ahh. I've seen people do that. And also seen varying cross patterns on the back. Thank you. And the plane worked pretty good too.
Plenty of room for more tuning as and when the owner feels the need.
@@twcmaker I’m going to try your technique. To be honest, the results look better with the straight horizontal stone surfing, than at 45 degrees.
"Stone surfing ". I just invented that 😝
Stone surfing.. Love it.
Let me know how you get on.
Jamie