Great video. I don’t think the term “Mechanical” should be used as a substitute for “Manual wind” though. Autos and Manuals are both mechanical aren’t they? Still enjoyed the discussion a lot. Thanks!
That's a very standard terminology though. You're right that autos are also mechanical but it seems watch people have settled on referring to manual wind watches as 'mechanical' as opposed to automatic, so... it ain't going anywhere.
@@JusttheWatch I have heard mechanical being used as a substitute for manual wind before. But in all honesty, without trying to be mean or condescending, I think that is out of confusion. It is extremely unpractical to mix those terminologies. If it is a habit, it is a bad one. For the simple reason that if you would use the words "mechanical watch" while meaning manual wound, at least part of your audience (I would argue the majority) would assume you are talking about mechanical watches in general. Which is not at all limited to manual wound. Those words have a specific meaning and are commonly accepted and understood as such. I have also seen people use the words for hair spring, balance spring (in the balance wheel) and main spring (in the barrel) interchangeably. It is another one of those situations. Plenty of people do it. But if we all adopt that lingo it would be confusing. I would then have to come up with new words to make the distinction or use extra words to describe what I am talking about. It is better to just realize it is a mistake and adjust the words we use instead of change definitions and meanings every time someone gets confused.
@@mannycalavera2335 eh, I blame Hamilton. They call their hand wound field watch the Khaki Field Mechanical, contrasted with the Khaki Field Automatic.
Perfect timing for the review, I've been eyeing a sea-gull chrono watch for some time to add to my collection and I really like the redstar's look and size.
Jonah Hekmatyar Hey Jonah. This is really none of my business, so I apologise in advance for my unsolicited advice, however here I go anyway... TBH, I think that the 42mm version has issues with its dial proportions. Those sub dials give the watch a pronounced 'cross-eyed' look IMO. I think that due to the size of the mov't those dials are both too small and too close to the pinion and they just throw the dial symmetry out of whack. Do you know that there is also 40mm varients available using the same dial design and movement as the Red Star? They look great and give you a larger wrist presence + a 20mm lug width. If you're not familiar with them, you may be interested in checking one of those out before you pull the trigger? Apologies again if this comes across as anything other than trying to be helpful. Cheers bud, and whichever direction you choose - enjoy! They are great little watches! Anthony.
@@hastur1784 Yeah it's a great watch. You should check out my review of it, if you want to see more. It's one of my older reviews though, so forgive the quality.
Got the same Panda dial Red Star, with the very same strap...got it from Poljot 24 in Germany. One of my favorite watches. Simple and beautiful and Poljot 24 gives you much better QC - never had even the tiniest issue with it. It takes a lot to fully wind, that is why yours probably stopped a couple of times - you have to really wind it until you feel resistance (you can't break the movement). Btw, I recently discovered "TY 2901"-based "made in Germany" automatic chronographs. A couple of minutes ago I ordered one on sale (with a "TV case" nonetheless) from a German website. The TY 2901 is, I believe, the same movement as the Seagull ST19 but assembled in Germany (though I doubt that). They claim it resembles the original Venus a bit more even though I don't know whether that's true or even really a good thing. The manufacturer I bought it from even offers a 5 yr warranty. With a sapphire crystal, that beautiful movement, 5 ATM water resistance and such a great warranty it cost me 230 euro shipping included (50 percent discount!). As an alternative, the Russian auto chronos with the 3133 movement (I don't know whether it's based on the Venus too or maybe even the Valjoux 7750) are also very affordable and you can always find them on Amazon, ebay and various other websites. Many of them look amazing as well. Other options in the affordable mechanical chronograph section would be the Alpha Paul Newman (got it, Alpha Europe offers better QC) and the Phylida Tintin if you ask me... Keep up the good work, great channel!
Elshantonio Great comment mate, and thanks for the heads up on the German mech. Chronograph. I'll check it out I think. I'm a collector of Soviet era watches in general and I have the 3133 in a Strela 'Alexei Leonov' / 1st ever EVA (space-walk) re-issue / commerative piece. A fine bit of kit with a great story and serious history! I had on my wrist yesterday as a matter of fact. And it's a favourite of mine too! I love the Okeana chronograph too, same 3133 mov't I think? Is that right? Anyway - nice to talk to another Russian chrono owner! There aren't enough of us! Cheers mate. Anthony.
@@anthonysmith2982 Yes, I believe the "Okean" also has the 3133, I think it's based on a very similar Swiss movement to the Venus, I looked it up. Very underrated craftsmanship if you ask me. The OG "Sturmanskie" of course being the holy grail of Russian chronos...there are a couple available with the 3133 for an affordable price but those of course aren't the real deal. The real Sturmanskies are few and far between and a real gem. I'm currently also looking at vintage bullhead chronos made by Seiko and Citizen but good ones are a rare commodity and can be a bit pricy. There are affordable used Swiss auto chronos by Tissot, Jacques Lemans etc. and I believe they're using the excellent Valjoux 7750 movement or a derivative. I don't know, I have really developed a taste for affordable auto chronos these days, they're a real joy. Cheers, mate!
Elshantonio Mate - I frickin love the Citizen and Seiko Bullheads. Especially the Seiko Speedtimer! You have good taste sir. Check out a channel called Peter Kotsa Watches. He has a ᴄʀᴀᴄᴋɪɴ' example of the Seiko Bullhead. Yeah. They're pricey too for an honest example in good condition. I've got a Bulova Lunar Pilot too. It's obviously not mechanical, but it's a great quartz mov't - in the 8 months I've had it, it's gained about 1 sec. I had to change the time for Day Light Savings recently, and I really didn't want to - I wanted to track it over a whole year! But yep. Once I get my Merkur that'll make 5 chronographs (including a Seiko Flightmaster), but I think I'll be selling that... I love Chrono's. and can see heaps more in the future. I think the Okeana or the Bulova Surfboard will be my next buy. Cheers mate.
As I commented on Shane's video, these watches should make a trio with an Alpha Daytona for comparison sake. It's also a Seagull-powered chronograph, and they have panda versions as well. And it's only $140. I have it for 6 months now, and ot performs really nice. It's a shame that pretty much nobody at RUclips (except Kibble watches and Last watch horology) considers checking those Alphas out
Many more channels have actually covered the Alpha. For etc. Perth Watch, minitwatch etc. For a time, the Alpha was the goto for those seeking a Vintage-styled Daytona as it was the only Homage option. But recently, alternatives have popped up (Pagani Design, Parnis etc.)
I seems as if everyone says us watch collectors should have an Omega Speedmaster "Moon Watch" in our collection. I think we should all have a chronograph with the ST-019 movement.
I bought my original 1963 from Chrono24 in Germany about 3 years ago. It is the 37.5mm version with a domed sapphire chrystal. Chrono24 qc check the watches I believe. I wear it on a light brown Rios leather strap. It's always worked perfectly. It's my favourite summer time watch. The blued hands and the gold applied indices pop in the bright daylight. Accurate, with a 48 hour power reserve. Good for timing my eggs and my 35mm film developing.
I just got the Merkur(Pierre Paulin) for $191 US on Aliexpress, put it on a vintage black leather strap from Amazon looks stunning. I have 2 Merkur watches the quality is excellent.
I believe these are all made by the same company. Seagull, red star, sugess, Pierre Paulin etc have all the same watches in the range. I'm looking to add a 40mm Sugess to the collection for the fun of it (and as daily beater) which is identical to the Pierre Paulin. But also Red Star has the identical version. All the same, just to personal preference.
I've got three watches with an ST19: An original Sea-gull, a Merkur similar to the one you reviewed and a really cheap 1963 clone. The Seagull and the Merkur both work flawlessly all the time. The cheap one exhibits the same problem as your RedStar around the 59 seconds. Even worse, the chronograph seconds will occasionally jump back up to 2 seconds if the stop button is pressed down too weakly / slowly at any location. It doesn't tend to do that if you press down really positively in one stroke. But still, it makes this basically useless as a chronograph. The ST19 can be great value with decent QC. Especially, the column wheel chronograph mechanism seems to need careful adjustment. Merkur seems to do a good enough job most of the time. Some others obviously don't.
Hey Dave, First of all, thanks for all the great videos you put out! They are authentic and informative. I like your style. I also like your relationship with our God. This video caught me at the right time. I just purchased the 1963 Seagull, 38mm, "original" style - and then saw this "Panda" and liked it. Soooooo, I click on a link in this video and get a $50 dollar discount. The reverse Panda is on it's way to me as I type. A link that still worked after 3 years! It's a gift! I went with the Paulin. Blessings, brother!
Nice reviews, decided to buy the Pierre Paulin and was pleasantly surprised the discount code still works. Even with $20 shipping & $10 optional insurance the total cost was less than $210. Thanks!
I prefer the 38mm because i have a small wrist. I like both time pieces! I would purchase the Pierre Paulin if it had a Sapphire Crystal. I like the looks better. I’m going to check out the Alphas That Andre TS mentioned.
@@anthonysmith2982 Why is that ok though? It's stealing another company's design they've spent years throwing hard work and serious investment at. By using nothing more than dignity & imagination they could have made this both unique and [therefore, even more] desirable.
anonymous bosch I don't understand your question. Are you asking me to justify why Hamilton ripped off Heuer's design? And if so, why I'm OK with it? Or are you asking me something else?
@@anthonysmith2982 Why is it ok when watch firms pinch designs? With this... it wouldn’t be that difficult to change a few features and make it unique.
anonymous bosch: If you know enough about timepieces to know what the Merkur is a copy of, you know that the debate over so called 'homage' watches is one of the most polarising discussions amongst watch enthusiasts and probably the most circular. You know that there is nothing to say that will change my mind and vice versa. The discussion is probably older than we are... So I have a better question: Why even watch the video if you are so opposed to everything the very subject of the video stands for? Are you lonely and bored or do you just want to flex? Or both? (Rhetorical questions...obviously). Clearly you simply want to pick a 'fight'. So I simply choose to not engage with you or others of your ilk. Go off and ᴛʀʏ to find someone who actually ᴄᴀʀᴇs about what you say or think and waste their time. Cheers, good-bye and good luck.
It's a tough call. The Merkur/ Pierre Paulin is the nicer looking watch. The case shape is pretty much the same as on the 1963. I just wish they'd offer sapphire as an option.
Interesting review! I just tested out the issue you had on the Red Star for stopping the chrono at 59 seconds and did not have the same problem. It stops just fine on my version, and the minutes tracker is still halfway over. It might be just yours, or a general inconsistent qq of the watch.
Column Wheel + Swan Neck regulator for under $200... How can I say no... Just got the Red Star Blue 42mm. Love the Merkur but 38mm is a little small for me. (Seagull ST19 = Venus 178 = Lemania 2310 = Omega Calibre 321)
Wow, Dave, I think you were very kind to the Red Star! It stops unexpectedly? I know we wear watches for more than simply telling the time, but that seems like a hard dealbreaker. That movement sounds like it needs servicing and new lubrication at the very least, but it should not arrive in that state. Otherwise I like the look of the indices and the crystal, and the star on the crown is cool. But the applied (is it?) star on the dial seems slightly off centre and the case and the hands are fugly. And why is the case back hidden under a NATO? 3/10, would not wear. The Merkur is much better. It's too small for my fat wrists, but in almost every way it looks better. The supplied strap seems odd, but not objectionable. I'm not a fan of the tiny tiny text on the crown, but that's the only criticism I have. Try it on a tan leather rally strap - be-yoo-ti-ful.
18:42 they are stated on their website that there is a "Misalignment of center chronograph hand frequently observed with Seagull ST19" with the follow-up note: "MTS re-adjusted can guarantee alignment of center chronograph hand on each Chronograph we sell."
Great review. Thanks for the in-depth analysis. I think I like the Merkur better too. Quality design and finishing trumps a lot of things and an Acrylic crystal is almost better because of how easy it is to repair or replace. I have too many watches with deeply-scratched mineral crystals that I can't do anything about. And true Panda Chronographs (especially racey ones like that Merkur with the Tachymetre ring) are so COOL ! I also thing it's good to have different watches with different strap-widths. You never know when you'll want to wear a watch with a thinner strap because it goes better with particular outfit (like a suit or or other formal wear). I bet that Merkur would go great with a black leather, black aligator, or black NATO strap too. Hmmm... Did i just put it on my Mechanical watch shopping list? Oops. Excuse me for a second while I call over to my wife... "Sorry Honey Dearest, I need another watch now." :D
Nice comparison! I really like the look of the Merkur, But why didn't they put Merkur on the dial? I wouldn't buy it because of the Name. If they would tribute the Designer Paulin, they could've written his name on the back...
I much prefer the Merkur, mostly for the dial legibility and case design, as well as the suede strap. Just a note..."Paulin" is not pronounced "Pauline", but rather more like "Paul-aingh) with an almost silent "n" sound. Great review. You and Shane are a great duo. I'm going to watch his review and see if he mispronounces "Paulin" as well!
Hey Dave! I picked up the Merkur 38mm Panda dial on Wednesday. I've had my eye on it for a while but I needed to find the $! I was really keen to get my hands on one ʙᴇғᴏʀᴇ you and Shane did your reviews. I knew that yours would be coming up soon as I'd spotted it in the background of an upload! I think that the watch will sell like mad! I was genuinely scared that I'd miss out! It looks like a fantastic piece. I'm surprised that you didn't mention that the Pierre Paulin watch features a swan neck regulator in its ST19. That is a ʜᴜɢᴇ bonus at this price IMO. I too think that the 38mm wears really well. Those long & elegant lugs + the 47mm lug to lug really help. It certainly wears well on my 8" wrist. And the only other thing that I want to add is that I've had the 38mm '1963' with Acrylic for almost a year and it's still scratch free!, so my reservations about acrylic are all but gone. Especially - as you said - if you have Polywatch on hand. And nothing else looks as warm as a domed acrylic crystal! Great review as usual Dave. Cheers and Best mate. Anthony. Edit: Both mov'ts have the Swan neck regulator. Only in the Red Star it is blued. My apologies Dave. 🤷♂️
I actually did mention the swan neck regulator in the rough cut, but I edited that part out because the video was getting too long. There was a lot more I wanted to talk about, but couldn't squeeze everything in!
Just the Watch - Cool. It wasn't meant as a criticism per sé, but it was important in the decision making for me: why do I need two of the same watch in different colours? I thought... Swan neck regulator! I answered. Now I say that out aloud... Just ignore me Dave!! 😁
Another thing worth mentioning is that this is a column wheel chronograph. The pushers feel much crispier than cam lever chronograph like the eta/valjoux 7750. And it’s thinner & more beautiful. Honestly I lost all interest in entry level Swiss chronographs after I got my Baltic bicompax.
I prefer Pierre as it has much better proportions and looks more interesting. However in the market of affordable chronographs would still go for supreme Baltic 002, the jump in the quality of finishing is staggering
Thanks to your review, I ordered one pierre paulin and am very happy with it. The price is great but that’s not it. They really did a good job at conveying the vintage look while keeping it modern (no champagne dial!). Thickness is a little bit of an issue as they could have squeezed 1-2mm to make it 13 not 15 but not so much of an issue. No hacking is really annoying but you can’t get it all. Last, the band while looking reasonably well, does NOT go well at all with the watch and I wonder what they were thinking. I ordered some cheap nato (bond black and grey), and am considering going for grey aligator maybe. Anyway, Watch does look great.
Just wanted to let you and your viewers know that the chrono side of the watch is faulty. They have a disclaimer on their website highlighted in red not to use the pushers/timer. I purchased the panda dial from the manufacturers website, and the watch's timer worked once then broke. It's a lovely watch, when working properly.
this was great! can you somehow look at the other Pierre Paulin chronograph they have on the site! its got heat blue hands! the only other picture I've found anywhere is on their site and its a drawing
I had the same issues on my Red Star 1963 38 mm. It just stopped after a few minutes and I had to rewind it. I feel like this is a quality problem on the movement. I also have an original Seagull 1963 and this one runs flawless
I would get that redstar serviced... Sign of stoping when using a chronograph could be that cluch is pushing the weels way to deep so they stop as well as resetting problem. Colum weel needs more fiddling to work right, that's why it cost more in other cases. Im happy to say my redstar 1963 38mm sapphire works perfectly. I use it as a daily and use stopwatch multiple times a day to time my bicycle runs and mostly and mainly for coffee brewing. It doesn't have problem with around 60s back jump. I got my from Julian from Poljot 24... He is usually testing every watch he sells and has a watchmaker in tim that deals with the one that don't pass, maybe that explains why my works so well
Very good review I prefer the pier pauline ,although its something that you could add in the review is that get a great inspiration of the Hamilton intramatic chrono.
I have an Alpha chronograph with the Seagull movement - it cost the equivalent of around $140. The case finishing is a bit lacking in places, but it keeps good time and looks great on the wrist.
Great review! I'm excited for more Merkur watches, have you seen the Pierre Paulin Enamel Dial Heat Blue Hands Doctor's Pulsation watch. Quite a mouthful, would be interesting to check their claims of an Enamel dial!
Harsh Atit Thanks for that info H.A. I often wondered at the quality difference between Sugess, HKED & Red Star. It's good to hear that from someone who has (1) experienced 2 of the 3 and (2) doesn't have a dog in the race. My Sugess '1963' is well regulated but I've had to re-calibrate the chrono hand a few times, no biggie, it's not difficult, but on the other hand I shouldn't need to be doing it on a 12 mth old piece that's part of a 12 watch rotation (give or take) and is worn accordingly. It could be a QC issue - in that no matter the brand you get lucky or you don't. Dave's issue with the Red Star may be an example of that? Or maybe HKED ᴅᴏ put more effort into QC and regulation? They definitely aren't trying to be the cheapest, which could be a good sign... Anyway. I've got the Merkur on the way. I love that it has a swan neck regulator. It'd be nice if they made use of the thing! Before I go - I'd love to get my hands on one of the genuine Sea-Gull '1963' Plan B's that were released about 6 months ago. Frickin' ɢʀᴇᴀᴛ looking dial. But at around 3X the price, I'd like to know if they're worth it? Cheers mate. Good comment. Anthony.
@@anthonysmith2982 Saw a dude posted on a forum. He apparently owned two 1963s, the Escapement Time ST-19 flieger chrono, and a Sea-gull CNMark commissioned piece. The Aidophedo ST-1908 Moonphase beat them all pretty handily. Currently, the ST-19 Tiers are as followed: 1) Tianjin Sea-gull 2) Aidophedo, HKED, Perpetual & Insert Microbrand here* (Geckota, EMG, Precista etc.) 3) Merkur/Escapement Time, Red Star, Ticino & Tisell 4) Sugess/Phylida/Alpha/Gull-tron/Unmarked/Guangzhou 'Sea-gull' The Sea-gull Official Version (Specifically the 1962 Plan B) is the best version if you are hunting for that kind of style.
Possum Sam - Hi Sam. Nice to see you here. 🙂 Thank-you very much for the honest and detailed reply mate. Your knowledge is impressive. And the 'pecking order' of quality is something that I'll save in notes for future reference. I have not even heard of a few of the names you mentioned and there were others I knew of but was unaware of their use of any ST19 variants. Hey, while I have you, do you happen to know anything about the ᴏᴛʜᴇʀ Pierre Paulin chronograph floating around AliX with the large twin date windows at 12 and the smaller sub dials at 8 & 4? It is, I think, a Breitling knock-off and is also under the Merkur umbrella. Specifically - do you know if it uses a stand alone ST19 variant or a modified version? Thanks again Sam. Always learn a trick or two when you are around! Edit: - For ref: It's in the Merkur shop if you haven't already seen it (which would be a first!).
Possum Sam - The Dato graph! Of course it is! I adore that piece, don't know how I didn't see it. Now you say it I can't un-see it! The dial layout - bar the varying registers at the 6 - is close to identical! Guess I must've been thrown off by the case shape and pushers on the Merkur... I was tossing up between the 2 for some time and fell towards the basic panda. I don't regret that decision The Hammy Intramatic and various Heuer Carrera pandas have been on my wish list for ᴀ ɢ ᴇ s, but I just don't have the $ for either. My '1963' is from Sugess. It's not perfect, even at $125USD I paid for it - but it's well regulated and has a solid crown action. As stated, I've had some problems with the reset function of the chronograph hand, but that easily fixed. So even if my Merkur is on par with it I'll be satisfied. Still ᴀ ʟᴏᴛ of watch for the $ IMO and I have a couple of ɢʀᴇᴀᴛ 18mm straps! Thanks again Sam. Cheers.
I have the precista prs 5 from timefactors with the st 19 movement.I also have the Russian Buran chrono with the 3133 movement.Both were more expensive some 15 years ago,the Buran is still available but the price is even higher.........................
Like you, I don't have many 18mm bands (other than my Dad's 1961 Hamilton). That aside? I appreciate the attention to detail, especially with regards to the case. It's enough to make me wonder about what attention to detail might've been missed to cause the hiccup you mantioned at the 59 second mark on the Red Star. I'm not currently in the market for a chronograph, but the Merkur Pierre Paulin would definitely be my choice. Great review!
This is 1st time leaving a comment. Love you channel love how you present yourself as well as the subject at hand. Greatjob all the way around. Would love to interview you some time. If i e er stop procrastinating and get my channel up and going. Lol ill get with you. Q. On the Pierre how difficult do you think it would be to mod a high domed saphire. Love the watch otherwise. Thanks George🦎
I had a HKED 1963, but sold it because I couldn't live with those cheesy chemically blued screws. This time around I'm looking past the screws and even the cheesy name on the dial, and have purchased a (pre-ordered) reverse panda! With the discount code I think I can live with it!
What a beautiful watch the Merkur is. I don’t know too much about that movement is it reliable? What about the maintenance? I’m seriously considering adding one to my collection but I’ve always been a little scary about mechanical or automatic chronos because of the service.
It's more of a throw away purchase at these prices. The service will probably cost more than a replacement. Even if mine conks out on me, I'll enjoy looking at the movement.
Great video, great information. i dont really care for chronographs, except pandas. i just (literally yesterday) got a Dan Henry panda. it's pretty small, but a beautiful watch. Quartz movement, if your curious. I was also looking at the Sugess panda with the champagne dial. If the movement is good, i may still have to get one. Thanks,
One problem with chronographs is ads rarely (maybe even never) explain the functions very well and sometimes it can take a while figuring it out from photos. But my ears pricked when you said this keeps going until you stop it - I immediately thought wow... wow... slap a 12 bezel on and suddenly you’ve got a 12 hr chrono (with part time GMT).
It makes you wonder about that Chinese movement when it won’t stop on the minute. That’s a critical place to be a problem! Great review as always Dave!!!
I wish they had just cleaned up the bridges more on the Pauline ST19, and the movement would look so much better. There are tool marks on both the one you have and the one Shane has. Oh, if they had done a black second hand with a white tip on the panda, that would have been brilliant. That $50 coupon makes really a great bargain.
Merkur case is actually the very original Sea Gull case. The only difference consist in the polished lugs, which is a rather cosmetic and not shape difference.
There's a panda eye 1963 red star sapphire that's also mechanical/manual wind. That's kind of a bummer. I'd rather either automatic OR battery operated because I don't wear the same watch every day.
Its in the description: USE CODE: justthewatch for $50 off from Merkur's site. But be aware that Merkur is currently experiencing shipping delays due to Corona virus.
I just received mine (Seagull ST1901 - White Swan variant) this morning and the very first thing I noticed was that the second hand was running continuously, I thought hmm that's not how my other chronographs work... I tried the start/stop pusher and nothing happens, I know I'm not supposed to press the reset pusher whilst the second hand is running but no dice. Nothing either. Is this the way this watch is sold? Are the pushers decorative? I'm thinking I've got a lemon.
An important detail you forgot to mention is the "Gooseneck". It is a really cool feature on the movement, for better adjustment and timekeeping. And it makes it an even better value proposition.
Hey Dave, Greetings. This video is very informative, watching this I got curious if I could maange to get a st19 chronograph that looks like Monaco homage. I get some vk64 chrono from aliexpress but none of them are mechanical or use st19. Please help me find one
I think the real verdict is just shell out the extra $250 and get the Loreir that will actually retain it's value and just looks much more expensive for the price you're actually laying.
Liking the Red Star much better than than PP version....can’t really get my head around their branding name. Dave on another subject, do you know of a Watch website in Japan listing watch sales in English. I am trying to tap into buying early, good condition Casio watches, and unfortunately, the ones I am interested are far and few between, and generally in a rubbish condition...Any suggestions would be well appreciated.
I have a 38mm Seagull 1963 (with a less common champagne panda dial) as well as a Sugess with its cousin ST1908 movement, including a date and moonphase. The Sugess does sometimes exhibit the same stopping behavior you experienced. It's certainly a frustrating phenomenon, and I can only guess it's a QC issue.
Coleslaw Hey. I had my eye on another Pierre Paulin watch on AliX. It's also a Panda, but has a big double window (2 date wheel) date display at the 12 and smaller chronograph sub dials at the 10 & 4 positions. It's a really interesting looking piece, as are the Sugess chronographs with the date wheel and moon phase that you have. I did think about both of them but decided to stick with the racing style chronograph, even though I already have the Acrylic / 38mm Sugess 1963. I haven't experienced the stopping, but I have had to routinely re-set the chrono hand... Still. A mechanical column wheel chronograph with swan neck regulation and, dare I say it, iconic dial design at $250USD or less? I'm willing to put up with some quirks for that!
This is so damn cool. I always liked the Seagull except for the Red star, 42mm and chinese writing on the dial. But a 38, oh buddy. Wish it had a sapphire, I'd have spent more for a sapphire. Damn that's tempting... Edit: On their website they say and I quote "due Wuhan virus, all shipment will be delayed dispatched at the end of Feb" well that's a long time.
RedStar Has a kind of "flat" look and the Nato strap takes the attractiveness, as a whole, further down. The angled case is different , because of that I find it attractive. Marketing-wise , the Chinese written above number 6... mmm .. I still believe the market tend to label it as "cheap", I'd remove it . Pierre Paulin Looking from above , the concentric circles , catch the light leaving a sense of a dark ring in between, very attractive , sign of class. Following that, the strap needs to be changed to a non-that sporty , it should be waterproof leather, black. They killed the chronograph by using a a white colored hand, that , I think , is "unacceptable" in the chronograph concept. The outer dial is not going to help that much if the watch is used as a tool, less in a smaller watch (39 mm). The Panda dial, in general , creates a crowded environment , where parts look like they are competing to show up or the user has to wait for some time to elapse until he / she can use the chronograph... I can't imagine how to do that around 2:15. As usual good presentation of watches and it is always good to know that there is some coming up competition to the French pronounced chronograph movement (I really dont know how to sound it). :)
Great video. I don’t think the term “Mechanical” should be used as a substitute for “Manual wind” though. Autos and Manuals are both mechanical aren’t they? Still enjoyed the discussion a lot. Thanks!
That's a very standard terminology though. You're right that autos are also mechanical but it seems watch people have settled on referring to manual wind watches as 'mechanical' as opposed to automatic, so... it ain't going anywhere.
Howard Y I’m surprised by this and haven’t heard it as an unofficial standard at all.
Yeah I agree. Just sort of habit at this point because I here it being used fairly commonly that way.
@@JusttheWatch I have heard mechanical being used as a substitute for manual wind before. But in all honesty, without trying to be mean or condescending, I think that is out of confusion. It is extremely unpractical to mix those terminologies. If it is a habit, it is a bad one. For the simple reason that if you would use the words "mechanical watch" while meaning manual wound, at least part of your audience (I would argue the majority) would assume you are talking about mechanical watches in general. Which is not at all limited to manual wound. Those words have a specific meaning and are commonly accepted and understood as such.
I have also seen people use the words for hair spring, balance spring (in the balance wheel) and main spring (in the barrel) interchangeably. It is another one of those situations. Plenty of people do it. But if we all adopt that lingo it would be confusing. I would then have to come up with new words to make the distinction or use extra words to describe what I am talking about. It is better to just realize it is a mistake and adjust the words we use instead of change definitions and meanings every time someone gets confused.
@@mannycalavera2335 eh, I blame Hamilton. They call their hand wound field watch the Khaki Field Mechanical, contrasted with the Khaki Field Automatic.
Perfect timing for the review, I've been eyeing a sea-gull chrono watch for some time to add to my collection and I really like the redstar's look and size.
Jonah Hekmatyar
Hey Jonah. This is really none of my business, so I apologise in advance for my unsolicited advice, however here I go anyway...
TBH, I think that the 42mm version has issues with its dial proportions. Those sub dials give the watch a pronounced 'cross-eyed' look IMO.
I think that due to the size of the mov't those dials are both too small and too close to the pinion and they just throw the dial symmetry out of whack.
Do you know that there is also 40mm varients available using the same dial design and movement as the Red Star? They look great and give you a larger wrist presence + a 20mm lug width. If you're not familiar with them, you may be interested in checking one of those out before you pull the trigger?
Apologies again if this comes across as anything other than trying to be helpful.
Cheers bud, and whichever direction you choose - enjoy!
They are great little watches!
Anthony.
I do really like these movements. I've got a few watches with them in now. Including a pretty similar Sugess panda chronograph.
can i ask you someting? is the segess a good watch?
@@hastur1784 Yeah it's a great watch. You should check out my review of it, if you want to see more. It's one of my older reviews though, so forgive the quality.
@@HonestWatchReviewsHWR I'll do it
Got the same Panda dial Red Star, with the very same strap...got it from Poljot 24 in Germany. One of my favorite watches. Simple and beautiful and Poljot 24 gives you much better QC - never had even the tiniest issue with it. It takes a lot to fully wind, that is why yours probably stopped a couple of times - you have to really wind it until you feel resistance (you can't break the movement). Btw, I recently discovered "TY 2901"-based "made in Germany" automatic chronographs. A couple of minutes ago I ordered one on sale (with a "TV case" nonetheless) from a German website. The TY 2901 is, I believe, the same movement as the Seagull ST19 but assembled in Germany (though I doubt that). They claim it resembles the original Venus a bit more even though I don't know whether that's true or even really a good thing. The manufacturer I bought it from even offers a 5 yr warranty. With a sapphire crystal, that beautiful movement, 5 ATM water resistance and such a great warranty it cost me 230 euro shipping included (50 percent discount!). As an alternative, the Russian auto chronos with the 3133 movement (I don't know whether it's based on the Venus too or maybe even the Valjoux 7750) are also very affordable and you can always find them on Amazon, ebay and various other websites. Many of them look amazing as well. Other options in the affordable mechanical chronograph section would be the Alpha Paul Newman (got it, Alpha Europe offers better QC) and the Phylida Tintin if you ask me...
Keep up the good work, great channel!
Elshantonio
Great comment mate, and thanks for the heads up on the German mech. Chronograph. I'll check it out I think.
I'm a collector of Soviet era watches in general and I have the 3133 in a Strela 'Alexei Leonov' / 1st ever EVA (space-walk) re-issue / commerative piece.
A fine bit of kit with a great story and serious history! I had on my wrist yesterday as a matter of fact. And it's a favourite of mine too!
I love the Okeana chronograph too, same 3133 mov't I think? Is that right?
Anyway - nice to talk to another Russian chrono owner! There aren't enough of us!
Cheers mate.
Anthony.
@@anthonysmith2982 Yes, I believe the "Okean" also has the 3133, I think it's based on a very similar Swiss movement to the Venus, I looked it up. Very underrated craftsmanship if you ask me. The OG "Sturmanskie" of course being the holy grail of Russian chronos...there are a couple available with the 3133 for an affordable price but those of course aren't the real deal. The real Sturmanskies are few and far between and a real gem. I'm currently also looking at vintage bullhead chronos made by Seiko and Citizen but good ones are a rare commodity and can be a bit pricy. There are affordable used Swiss auto chronos by Tissot, Jacques Lemans etc. and I believe they're using the excellent Valjoux 7750 movement or a derivative. I don't know, I have really developed a taste for affordable auto chronos these days, they're a real joy. Cheers, mate!
Elshantonio
Mate - I frickin love the Citizen and Seiko Bullheads. Especially the Seiko Speedtimer!
You have good taste sir.
Check out a channel called Peter Kotsa Watches.
He has a ᴄʀᴀᴄᴋɪɴ' example of the Seiko Bullhead.
Yeah. They're pricey too for an honest example in good condition.
I've got a Bulova Lunar Pilot too. It's obviously not mechanical, but it's a great quartz mov't - in the 8 months I've had it, it's gained about 1 sec. I had to change the time for Day Light Savings recently, and I really didn't want to - I wanted to track it over a whole year!
But yep. Once I get my Merkur that'll make 5 chronographs (including a Seiko Flightmaster), but I think I'll be selling that...
I love Chrono's. and can see heaps more in the future. I think the Okeana or the Bulova Surfboard will be my next buy.
Cheers mate.
As I commented on Shane's video, these watches should make a trio with an Alpha Daytona for comparison sake. It's also a Seagull-powered chronograph, and they have panda versions as well. And it's only $140. I have it for 6 months now, and ot performs really nice. It's a shame that pretty much nobody at RUclips (except Kibble watches and Last watch horology) considers checking those Alphas out
Many more channels have actually covered the Alpha.
For etc. Perth Watch, minitwatch etc.
For a time, the Alpha was the goto for those seeking a Vintage-styled Daytona as it was the only Homage option.
But recently, alternatives have popped up (Pagani Design, Parnis etc.)
I seems as if everyone says us watch collectors should have an Omega Speedmaster "Moon Watch" in our collection. I think we should all have a chronograph with the ST-019 movement.
Every watch collector should at least have a Rolex, an Omega, and a ST19 whatever. :-)
I bought my original 1963 from Chrono24 in Germany about 3 years ago. It is the 37.5mm version with a domed sapphire chrystal. Chrono24 qc check the watches I believe.
I wear it on a light brown Rios leather strap. It's always worked perfectly.
It's my favourite summer time watch. The blued hands and the gold applied indices pop in the bright daylight. Accurate, with a 48 hour power reserve. Good for timing my eggs and my 35mm film developing.
Love the ST19, makes budget mechanicals possible! That Merkur is stunning!
I just got the Merkur(Pierre Paulin) for $191 US on Aliexpress, put it on a vintage black leather strap from Amazon looks stunning. I have 2 Merkur watches the quality is excellent.
I believe these are all made by the same company. Seagull, red star, sugess, Pierre Paulin etc have all the same watches in the range. I'm looking to add a 40mm Sugess to the collection for the fun of it (and as daily beater) which is identical to the Pierre Paulin. But also Red Star has the identical version. All the same, just to personal preference.
I've got three watches with an ST19: An original Sea-gull, a Merkur similar to the one you reviewed and a really cheap 1963 clone. The Seagull and the Merkur both work flawlessly all the time. The cheap one exhibits the same problem as your RedStar around the 59 seconds. Even worse, the chronograph seconds will occasionally jump back up to 2 seconds if the stop button is pressed down too weakly / slowly at any location. It doesn't tend to do that if you press down really positively in one stroke. But still, it makes this basically useless as a chronograph.
The ST19 can be great value with decent QC. Especially, the column wheel chronograph mechanism seems to need careful adjustment. Merkur seems to do a good enough job most of the time. Some others obviously don't.
Try demagnetising it.
Hey Dave, First of all, thanks for all the great videos you put out! They are authentic and informative. I like your style. I also like your relationship with our God.
This video caught me at the right time. I just purchased the 1963 Seagull, 38mm, "original" style - and then saw this "Panda" and liked it. Soooooo, I click on a link in this video and get a $50 dollar discount. The reverse Panda is on it's way to me as I type. A link that still worked after 3 years! It's a gift! I went with the Paulin.
Blessings, brother!
Nice reviews, decided to buy the Pierre Paulin and was pleasantly surprised the discount code still works. Even with $20 shipping & $10 optional insurance the total cost was less than $210. Thanks!
I can imagine the Pauline with an Orange or Red Second Hand
Red, with white lume on the very tip to contrast with the tach scale.
I prefer the 38mm because i have a small wrist. I like both time pieces! I would purchase the Pierre Paulin if it had a Sapphire Crystal. I like the looks better. I’m going to check out the Alphas That Andre TS mentioned.
The Merkur is a homage of the Hamilton Intramatic I think. They look very similar.
Agree. It's pretty much identical. It's not unlike many Heuer Carrera's either. That's fine with me! 🙂
@@anthonysmith2982 Why is that ok though? It's stealing another company's design they've spent years throwing hard work and serious investment at.
By using nothing more than dignity & imagination they could have made this both unique and [therefore, even more] desirable.
anonymous bosch
I don't understand your question.
Are you asking me to justify why Hamilton ripped off Heuer's design?
And if so, why I'm OK with it?
Or are you asking me something else?
@@anthonysmith2982 Why is it ok when watch firms pinch designs? With this... it wouldn’t be that difficult to change a few features and make it unique.
anonymous bosch:
If you know enough about timepieces to know what the Merkur is a copy of, you know that the debate over so called 'homage' watches is one of the most polarising discussions amongst watch enthusiasts and probably the most circular.
You know that there is nothing to say that will change my mind and vice versa.
The discussion is probably older than we are...
So I have a better question:
Why even watch the video if you are so opposed to everything the very subject of the video stands for?
Are you lonely and bored or do you just want to flex? Or both?
(Rhetorical questions...obviously).
Clearly you simply want to pick a 'fight'. So I simply choose to not engage with you or others of your ilk.
Go off and ᴛʀʏ to find someone who actually ᴄᴀʀᴇs about what you say or think and waste their time.
Cheers, good-bye and good luck.
I definitely like the looks of the Mekur better. Just a beautiful watch.
It's a tough call. The Merkur/ Pierre Paulin is the nicer looking watch. The case shape is pretty much the same as on the 1963. I just wish they'd offer sapphire as an option.
They do, on their website.
Another great review as always. I love that panda dial! I need to get one in the collection! You and Shane killed it brother!
Interesting review! I just tested out the issue you had on the Red Star for stopping the chrono at 59 seconds and did not have the same problem. It stops just fine on my version, and the minutes tracker is still halfway over. It might be just yours, or a general inconsistent qq of the watch.
Column Wheel + Swan Neck regulator for under $200... How can I say no... Just got the Red Star Blue 42mm. Love the Merkur but 38mm is a little small for me. (Seagull ST19 = Venus 178 = Lemania 2310 = Omega Calibre 321)
I'm loving the red, black and white colourway. Another great video my friend. 👍 👍
Wow, Dave, I think you were very kind to the Red Star! It stops unexpectedly? I know we wear watches for more than simply telling the time, but that seems like a hard dealbreaker. That movement sounds like it needs servicing and new lubrication at the very least, but it should not arrive in that state.
Otherwise I like the look of the indices and the crystal, and the star on the crown is cool. But the applied (is it?) star on the dial seems slightly off centre and the case and the hands are fugly. And why is the case back hidden under a NATO? 3/10, would not wear.
The Merkur is much better. It's too small for my fat wrists, but in almost every way it looks better. The supplied strap seems odd, but not objectionable. I'm not a fan of the tiny tiny text on the crown, but that's the only criticism I have. Try it on a tan leather rally strap - be-yoo-ti-ful.
I prefer the red star case i like the way it tapers to fit the movement instead of a using a plastic ring .
18:42 they are stated on their website that there is a "Misalignment of center chronograph hand frequently observed with Seagull ST19" with the follow-up note: "MTS re-adjusted can guarantee alignment of center chronograph hand on each Chronograph we sell."
Merkur now has a racing version of this chronograph with a green 70s retro dial and yellow second hand. It looks really cool. I ordered one.
Great review. Thanks for the in-depth analysis. I think I like the Merkur better too. Quality design and finishing trumps a lot of things and an Acrylic crystal is almost better because of how easy it is to repair or replace. I have too many watches with deeply-scratched mineral crystals that I can't do anything about. And true Panda Chronographs (especially racey ones like that Merkur with the Tachymetre ring) are so COOL ! I also thing it's good to have different watches with different strap-widths. You never know when you'll want to wear a watch with a thinner strap because it goes better with particular outfit (like a suit or or other formal wear). I bet that Merkur would go great with a black leather, black aligator, or black NATO strap too. Hmmm... Did i just put it on my Mechanical watch shopping list? Oops. Excuse me for a second while I call over to my wife... "Sorry Honey Dearest, I need another watch now." :D
I happen to have an 18mm vintage looking black rally strap that is looking forward to the Merkurs arrival as much as I am! 😁
Nice comparison! I really like the look of the Merkur, But why didn't they put Merkur on the dial? I wouldn't buy it because of the Name. If they would tribute the Designer Paulin, they could've written his name on the back...
I much prefer the Merkur, mostly for the dial legibility and case design, as well as the suede strap. Just a note..."Paulin" is not pronounced "Pauline", but rather more like "Paul-aingh) with an almost silent "n" sound. Great review. You and Shane are a great duo. I'm going to watch his review and see if he mispronounces "Paulin" as well!
Hey Dave!
I picked up the Merkur 38mm Panda dial on Wednesday. I've had my eye on it for a while but I needed to find the $!
I was really keen to get my hands on one ʙᴇғᴏʀᴇ you and Shane did your reviews. I knew that yours would be coming up soon as I'd spotted it in the background of an upload! I think that the watch will sell like mad! I was genuinely scared that I'd miss out!
It looks like a fantastic piece.
I'm surprised that you didn't mention that the Pierre Paulin watch features a swan neck regulator in its ST19. That is a ʜᴜɢᴇ bonus at this price IMO.
I too think that the 38mm wears really well. Those long & elegant lugs + the 47mm lug to lug really help. It certainly wears well on my 8" wrist.
And the only other thing that I want to add is that I've had the 38mm '1963' with Acrylic for almost a year and it's still scratch free!, so my reservations about acrylic are all but gone. Especially - as you said - if you have Polywatch on hand. And nothing else looks as warm as a domed acrylic crystal!
Great review as usual Dave.
Cheers and Best mate.
Anthony.
Edit:
Both mov'ts have the Swan neck regulator. Only in the Red Star it is blued. My apologies Dave. 🤷♂️
I actually did mention the swan neck regulator in the rough cut, but I edited that part out because the video was getting too long. There was a lot more I wanted to talk about, but couldn't squeeze everything in!
Just the Watch - Cool. It wasn't meant as a criticism per sé, but it was important in the decision making for me: why do I need two of the same watch in different colours? I thought... Swan neck regulator! I answered.
Now I say that out aloud...
Just ignore me Dave!! 😁
Another thing worth mentioning is that this is a column wheel chronograph. The pushers feel much crispier than cam lever chronograph like the eta/valjoux 7750. And it’s thinner & more beautiful. Honestly I lost all interest in entry level Swiss chronographs after I got my Baltic bicompax.
I’m to lazy to wind. That’s why I stick to quartz.
I prefer Pierre as it has much better proportions and looks more interesting. However in the market of affordable chronographs would still go for supreme Baltic 002, the jump in the quality of finishing is staggering
Thanks to your review, I ordered one pierre paulin and am very happy with it. The price is great but that’s not it. They really did a good job at conveying the vintage look while keeping it modern (no champagne dial!). Thickness is a little bit of an issue as they could have squeezed 1-2mm to make it 13 not 15 but not so much of an issue.
No hacking is really annoying but you can’t get it all.
Last, the band while looking reasonably well, does NOT go well at all with the watch and I wonder what they were thinking. I ordered some cheap nato (bond black and grey), and am considering going for grey aligator maybe.
Anyway, Watch does look great.
Why do you recommend the Pierre Paulin, when you can get the exact same watch for 50 bucks less? It then says Sugess on the dial.
Just wanted to let you and your viewers know that the chrono side of the watch is faulty. They have a disclaimer on their website highlighted in red not to use the pushers/timer. I purchased the panda dial from the manufacturers website, and the watch's timer worked once then broke. It's a lovely watch, when working properly.
this was great! can you somehow look at the other Pierre Paulin chronograph they have on the site! its got heat blue hands! the only other picture I've found anywhere is on their site and its a drawing
PIERRE PAULIN Fliger Pulsations Doctors Mechanical Chronograph Mens Watch Enemal Dial Heated Blue Hands
Hey! How long does your discount code for the PP Last? Thanks and great vid!
Just bought one after watching the video today, December 30 2020, and the discount code still worked!👍
I had the same issues on my Red Star 1963 38 mm. It just stopped after a few minutes and I had to rewind it. I feel like this is a quality problem on the movement. I also have an original Seagull 1963 and this one runs flawless
I would get that redstar serviced... Sign of stoping when using a chronograph could be that cluch is pushing the weels way to deep so they stop as well as resetting problem. Colum weel needs more fiddling to work right, that's why it cost more in other cases. Im happy to say my redstar 1963 38mm sapphire works perfectly. I use it as a daily and use stopwatch multiple times a day to time my bicycle runs and mostly and mainly for coffee brewing. It doesn't have problem with around 60s back jump.
I got my from Julian from Poljot 24... He is usually testing every watch he sells and has a watchmaker in tim that deals with the one that don't pass, maybe that explains why my works so well
Very good review I prefer the pier pauline ,although its something that you could add in the review is that get a great inspiration of the Hamilton intramatic chrono.
Chrono-matic, not Intra-matic. This one looks way more like that. I have the Hamilton you mention, it's an homage to the chrono-matic.
Have you seen the Sugess brand on ALI with the same movement?
Much nicer looking.
what's about Baltic chronograph, the case shape is gorgeous
Thanks for the comparison. The Merkur looks very nice.
I have an Alpha chronograph with the Seagull movement - it cost the equivalent of around $140. The case finishing is a bit lacking in places, but it keeps good time and looks great on the wrist.
Great review! I'm excited for more Merkur watches, have you seen the Pierre Paulin Enamel Dial Heat Blue Hands Doctor's Pulsation watch. Quite a mouthful, would be interesting to check their claims of an Enamel dial!
I've had a Sugess version of this and an HKED one- I can attest to the fact that the HKED is better finished, built, and regulated.
Harsh Atit
Thanks for that info H.A.
I often wondered at the quality difference between Sugess, HKED & Red Star. It's good to hear that from someone who has (1) experienced 2 of the 3 and (2) doesn't have a dog in the race.
My Sugess '1963' is well regulated but I've had to re-calibrate the chrono hand a few times, no biggie, it's not difficult, but on the other hand I shouldn't need to be doing it on a 12 mth old piece that's part of a 12 watch rotation (give or take) and is worn accordingly.
It could be a QC issue - in that no matter the brand you get lucky or you don't. Dave's issue with the Red Star may be an example of that? Or maybe HKED ᴅᴏ put more effort into QC and regulation? They definitely aren't trying to be the cheapest, which could be a good sign...
Anyway. I've got the Merkur on the way. I love that it has a swan neck regulator. It'd be nice if they made use of the thing!
Before I go - I'd love to get my hands on one of the genuine Sea-Gull '1963' Plan B's that were released about 6 months ago. Frickin' ɢʀᴇᴀᴛ looking dial. But at around 3X the price, I'd like to know if they're worth it?
Cheers mate. Good comment.
Anthony.
@@anthonysmith2982 Saw a dude posted on a forum.
He apparently owned two 1963s, the Escapement Time ST-19 flieger chrono, and a Sea-gull CNMark commissioned piece.
The Aidophedo ST-1908 Moonphase beat them all pretty handily.
Currently, the ST-19 Tiers are as followed:
1) Tianjin Sea-gull
2) Aidophedo, HKED, Perpetual & Insert Microbrand here* (Geckota, EMG, Precista etc.)
3) Merkur/Escapement Time, Red Star, Ticino & Tisell
4) Sugess/Phylida/Alpha/Gull-tron/Unmarked/Guangzhou 'Sea-gull'
The Sea-gull Official Version (Specifically the 1962 Plan B) is the best version if you are hunting for that kind of style.
Possum Sam -
Hi Sam. Nice to see you here. 🙂
Thank-you very much for the honest and detailed reply mate. Your knowledge is impressive. And the 'pecking order' of quality is something that I'll save in notes for future reference.
I have not even heard of a few of the names you mentioned and there were others I knew of but was unaware of their use of any ST19 variants.
Hey, while I have you, do you happen to know anything about the ᴏᴛʜᴇʀ Pierre Paulin chronograph floating around AliX with the large twin date windows at 12 and the smaller sub dials at 8 & 4?
It is, I think, a Breitling knock-off and is also under the Merkur umbrella.
Specifically - do you know if it uses a stand alone ST19 variant or a modified version?
Thanks again Sam.
Always learn a trick or two when you are around!
Edit: - For ref: It's in the Merkur shop if you haven't already seen it (which would be a first!).
@@anthonysmith2982 That is a homage to the A. Lange & Söhne datograph and yes it is manufactured by Merkur.
Possum Sam -
The Dato graph!
Of course it is!
I adore that piece, don't know how I didn't see it. Now you say it I can't un-see it! The dial layout - bar the varying registers at the 6 - is close to identical!
Guess I must've been thrown off by the case shape and pushers on the Merkur...
I was tossing up between the 2 for some time and fell towards the basic panda.
I don't regret that decision
The Hammy Intramatic and various Heuer Carrera pandas have been on my wish list for ᴀ ɢ ᴇ s, but I just don't have the $ for either.
My '1963' is from Sugess. It's not perfect, even at $125USD I paid for it - but it's well regulated and has a solid crown action. As stated, I've had some problems with the reset function of the chronograph hand, but that easily fixed.
So even if my Merkur is on par with it I'll be satisfied. Still ᴀ ʟᴏᴛ of watch for the $ IMO and I have a couple of ɢʀᴇᴀᴛ 18mm straps!
Thanks again Sam.
Cheers.
I have the precista prs 5 from timefactors with the st 19 movement.I also have the Russian Buran chrono with the 3133 movement.Both were more expensive some 15 years ago,the Buran is still available but the price is even higher.........................
I just received my Seagull 1963 yesterday, and it is working fine. I just tried to replicate the glitch with the seagull, but I couldn't do it.
Like you, I don't have many 18mm bands (other than my Dad's 1961 Hamilton). That aside? I appreciate the attention to detail, especially with regards to the case. It's enough to make me wonder about what attention to detail might've been missed to cause the hiccup you mantioned at the 59 second mark on the Red Star. I'm not currently in the market for a chronograph, but the Merkur Pierre Paulin would definitely be my choice. Great review!
The Peirre Pauline is not an st19 it's a TY2901 it on the website
Thanks for the info on the movement. Of the two, I like the PP better.
How does the Mekur compare to the Sugess panda? Same movement and design, wonder which has better finishing and value
This is 1st time leaving a comment. Love you channel love how you present yourself as well as the subject at hand. Greatjob all the way around. Would love to interview you some time. If i e er stop procrastinating and get my channel up and going. Lol ill get with you. Q. On the Pierre how difficult do you think it would be to mod a high domed saphire. Love the watch otherwise. Thanks George🦎
Love the 63 but I prefer the smaller case sizes available.
Interesting content. Regards.
I had a HKED 1963, but sold it because I couldn't live with those cheesy chemically blued screws. This time around I'm looking past the screws and even the cheesy name on the dial, and have purchased a (pre-ordered) reverse panda! With the discount code I think I can live with it!
just a tip: did you know that tooth past works just as well as polywatch to rub out scratches from the hesalite crystal?
geeze...every budget watch channel mustve been sent this watch. counted 8 reviews posted in the last 48 hours--and that's just in my feed.
Got the Merkur today. Awesome watch!
I have a Mercer Chrono with this movement...picked it up for 50% off retail
What a beautiful watch the Merkur is. I don’t know too much about that movement is it reliable? What about the maintenance? I’m seriously considering adding one to my collection but I’ve always been a little scary about mechanical or automatic chronos because of the service.
It's more of a throw away purchase at these prices. The service will probably cost more than a replacement. Even if mine conks out on me, I'll enjoy looking at the movement.
Great video, great information. i dont really care for chronographs, except pandas. i just (literally yesterday) got a Dan Henry panda. it's pretty small, but a beautiful watch. Quartz movement, if your curious. I was also looking at the Sugess panda with the champagne dial. If the movement is good, i may still have to get one. Thanks,
The Seiko VK-67 is a great movement DH watches are good value!
Pollywatch works really well, and crystal replacement is cheap and easy.... Their for the review
One problem with chronographs is ads rarely (maybe even never) explain the functions very well and sometimes it can take a while figuring it out from photos. But my ears pricked when you said this keeps going until you stop it - I immediately thought wow... wow... slap a 12 bezel on and suddenly you’ve got a 12 hr chrono (with part time GMT).
Yeah, I could really go for something like that. Like the Dan Henry 1963 with this movement would be pretty sweet.
It makes you wonder about that Chinese movement when it won’t stop on the minute. That’s a critical place to be a problem! Great review as always Dave!!!
Great review!
One complaint...It's pronounced "Paul-ain" with a soft "N", not "Pauline".
Doesnt merkur also come in saphire, is the dome shape different for tht model??
Hi Dave! What do you think about Red Star ST 1780 Sugess, which is not chronograph, just with indicator of power reserve? Thanks!
Very sketchy QC with this movement. I got a decent one on my 2nd attempt with LIW. Marc is a great Dude who runs an honest company. Thanks Dave. GBU
Question: can you wind the watch while the chronograph is running? Will that cause any damage or additional wear and tear?
I wish they had just cleaned up the bridges more on the Pauline ST19, and the movement would look so much better. There are tool marks on both the one you have and the one Shane has. Oh, if they had done a black second hand with a white tip on the panda, that would have been brilliant. That $50 coupon makes really a great bargain.
Pierre Paulin was an iconic chair designer. Why put his name on the dial? What's next? The Raymond Loewy field watch?
Merkur case is actually the very original Sea Gull case. The only difference consist in the polished lugs, which is a rather cosmetic and not shape difference.
the red star 38mm version is more similar to the Pierre
There's a panda eye 1963 red star sapphire that's also mechanical/manual wind. That's kind of a bummer. I'd rather either automatic OR battery operated because I don't wear the same watch every day.
You mentioned a discount at the end if the video but couldn’t find it. Let me know as I enjoyed the video and consider a purchase. Tks
Its in the description: USE CODE: justthewatch for $50 off from Merkur's site.
But be aware that Merkur is currently experiencing shipping delays due to Corona virus.
Just the Watch
Ok. Tks a lot. How long roughly? Can I get it before Xmas?
Is this type of movement expensive to maintain?
I love when you guys team up.
I just received mine (Seagull ST1901 - White Swan variant) this morning and the very first thing I noticed was that the second hand was running continuously, I thought hmm that's not how my other chronographs work... I tried the start/stop pusher and nothing happens, I know I'm not supposed to press the reset pusher whilst the second hand is running but no dice. Nothing either. Is this the way this watch is sold? Are the pushers decorative? I'm thinking I've got a lemon.
An important detail you forgot to mention is the "Gooseneck". It is a really cool feature on the movement, for better adjustment and timekeeping. And it makes it an even better value proposition.
Its a swan neck! The Chinese just make up names!
There's only one must buy chronograph. The Ron Swanson citizen 2100
Hey Dave, Greetings. This video is very informative, watching this I got curious if I could maange to get a st19 chronograph that looks like Monaco homage. I get some vk64 chrono from aliexpress but none of them are mechanical or use st19. Please help me find one
The Pierre Paulin looks awesome. Shame about the name though.
do you think I could get a metal bracelet for either of these.
I think the real verdict is just shell out the extra $250 and get the Loreir that will actually retain it's value and just looks much more expensive for the price you're actually laying.
Anyone have the ID on the strap he has on the Pierre Paulin?
Hi I have the seagull 1963 with the st19 mov. I need a stem and crown but I cant find them online. any help? thanks
Thank you dave
Nice comparison, comrade.
You deserved my, sorry, our subscription
You forgot the Sugess 1963 Panda!
So when it needs service you pay more for that than for the watch. Quixotic.
Liking the Red Star much better than than PP version....can’t really get my head around their branding name. Dave on another subject, do you know of a Watch website in Japan listing watch sales in English. I am trying to tap into buying early, good condition Casio watches, and unfortunately, the ones I am interested are far and few between, and generally in a rubbish condition...Any suggestions would be well appreciated.
I think there's a way to set your language preference on Amazon Japan to English. That's where I do most of my shopping here.
Just the Watch , okay, never thought of that, much appreciated.
suggest using translate in your browser, or decode the page with google translate
I have a 38mm Seagull 1963 (with a less common champagne panda dial) as well as a Sugess with its cousin ST1908 movement, including a date and moonphase. The Sugess does sometimes exhibit the same stopping behavior you experienced. It's certainly a frustrating phenomenon, and I can only guess it's a QC issue.
Coleslaw
Hey. I had my eye on another Pierre Paulin watch on AliX.
It's also a Panda, but has a big double window (2 date wheel) date display at the 12 and smaller chronograph sub dials at the 10 & 4 positions.
It's a really interesting looking piece, as are the Sugess chronographs with the date wheel and moon phase that you have.
I did think about both of them but decided to stick with the racing style chronograph, even though I already have the Acrylic / 38mm Sugess 1963. I haven't experienced the stopping, but I have had to routinely re-set the chrono hand... Still. A mechanical column wheel chronograph with swan neck regulation and, dare I say it, iconic dial design at $250USD or less?
I'm willing to put up with some quirks for that!
The coupon code for the Pierre Paulin is not working, can you please reactivate it?
The long lugs really ruin it for the Merkur
What is your wrist size so i can compare it to mine
7.5 inch
Like the movement, red star seems iffy
After 15 mins I just realized I’m watching a video about Merkur Panda and not Seagull ST1901 Panda.
Seagull ST19 is the name of the movement that both these watches have inside. Neither of the watches are made by Seagull.
@@JusttheWatch ahh thanks.. it was Sugess I was looking at. I now have no idea what’s real lol
This is so damn cool. I always liked the Seagull except for the Red star, 42mm and chinese writing on the dial. But a 38, oh buddy. Wish it had a sapphire, I'd have spent more for a sapphire. Damn that's tempting...
Edit: On their website they say and I quote "due Wuhan virus, all shipment will be delayed dispatched at the end of Feb" well that's a long time.
Most watches use a standard dial size. You can go to a jeweler and buy a sapphire crystal, or have them install it for you.
Nefarion, My thoughts exactly. Also, the lack of lume on the Red Star is a demerit. This little Merkur has a lot going for it.
The mechanismes is the same size?
Of course! Its the case thats different!
RedStar
Has a kind of "flat" look and the Nato strap takes the attractiveness, as a whole, further down.
The angled case is different , because of that I find it attractive.
Marketing-wise , the Chinese written above number 6... mmm .. I still believe the market tend to label it as "cheap", I'd remove it .
Pierre Paulin
Looking from above , the concentric circles , catch the light leaving a sense of a dark ring in between, very attractive , sign of class.
Following that, the strap needs to be changed to a non-that sporty , it should be waterproof leather, black.
They killed the chronograph by using a a white colored hand, that , I think , is "unacceptable" in the chronograph concept. The outer dial is not going to help that much if the watch is used as a tool, less in a smaller watch (39 mm).
The Panda dial, in general , creates a crowded environment , where parts look like they are competing to show up or the user has to wait for some time to elapse until he / she can use the chronograph... I can't imagine how to do that around 2:15.
As usual good presentation of watches and it is always good to know that there is some coming up competition to the French pronounced chronograph movement (I really dont know how to sound it).
:)