Thank you for these videos! I was wondering if this engine would fit my Performer recumbent bike, and your videos provide the clearest details about how this is installed!
I have installed several BBS02 750w and one BBSHD mid-drives on my trikes... I decided to go with the HD because it is easier to replace the reduction gear/axle if something goes wrong.. And i packed the Reduction gear with Black MolyGrease with NGLI-2 Lithium, specifically because this will reduce noise and make it run smoother and cooler. I get twice the miles out of my motors because i pack them.
Thanks for the information, Rob. This is the only installation I have done, and I've so far not experienced any problems with motor performance, other than just trying to keep the motor from rotating in the bottom bracket. Do you have a video or information posted to show how to specifically "pack" the motor? I would be interested in that. Take care.
@@daveyJ213 Hi David.. I learned about this from Bruno... ruclips.net/video/3lVRTRFueUU/видео.html Make sure it is BLACK MOLY GREASE NGLI2 Lithium .. Any other grease can damage the nylon gears./ This will make your motor work better and last much longer.. My recumbent shop now does this to every install they do as a courtesy..
@@daveyJ213 Hey David.. We talked about adding solar to etrike trailers.. Here is a link to a really amazing install of 3 solar panels on a trike/bobyak trailer... I asked Adam Roy how he wired all three 170w panels to the Genasun and then into the battery without over charging.. He gave an interesting reply: he had 3 genasun boost charge controllers (one for each panel). then all of the positives coming off of the Genasun were tied together and spliced into the positive battery output side. Same with the negative wires from the 3 genasun were spliced into the output side of the battery. I asked him, "how is the battery protected from over charge if they bypass the BMS on the battery.. ?" he said that the BMS protects the battery when wall charging.. The Genasun protects the battery the same way.. The BMS and the Genasun have a charge cut off.. Just make sure you match your battery to the correct Genasun controller.. and you won't over charge.. He said it is more efficient this way.. evidently the charge port and the output side of the batteries are parallel wired.. So either way, the Genasun or the BMS make it safe.. ruclips.net/video/-dJkQ4TgU-A/видео.html how is your solar project coming along? Rob PDX USA
@@rdkulessHey Rob. The solar trailer is all done and working fine. I switched out to three 12V batteries wired in parallel for a total of 45 amp hours. The solar panel was upgraded to a 100 watt Sun Solar unit with a current output of 5.8 amps and voltage output of 17.5 volts. On my first charging attempt it went fine accept that the inverter started complaining (whining) after about 25 minutes. I checked the batteries and they were down to on 12.6 volts, so perhaps the inverter doesn't let the batteries get below that, or maybe it was cutting out due to heat exhaustion. I'll have to test it more. The trailer is covered by the solar panel fastened to a .25 inch plywood board which is hinged on one side to the top of the trailer. I should post a quick video so you can take a look. Thanks for checking in and for the video link. I checked it out and I must say that entire system is amazing. I love how the panels provide sun and rain protection. So, you ride off of one battery while the other is charging I assume? With a system like that you could ride until your heart is content. Very cool. Take care.
Thank you so much, David! You and I spent a bit of time together at a bike expo a few years ago where AZUB was also present. I am also planning on adding the motor to my Tricon and just sent a message to the AZUB folks right before I found your videos. It will be fun to see what you accomplish before I tackle mine. Was there a reason for the lower side mount vs a rack mount battery?
Hey Stephen. Yes, two reasons actually. One, I think it would have required replacing the rear rack with one that was specifically designed to carry a battery. I love the original rack that came on the trike and did not want to replace it. Two, wanted to keep the extra weight as low as possible. Fun story: on a bike/packing tour I was carrying 60+ lbs. of gear, camping etc. The rack had some rolled up something on top as well as a small ice chest full of ice. (I know - I know better now). I stopped once roadside, on a slight lean to the right, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Once I dismounted and my weight was no longer on the trike, it tipped over and rolled 15 feet down the side of the hill. I'm lucky it got caught in some underbrush before crashing all the way to the bottom of the hill. Man, I learned that day to keep your load as low as possible.
Thanks, Brian. Glad you tuned in. Yeah, proper tools make a difference. In the mean time I'm practicing loading and packing, while also figuring out how to bring a small solar panel along to charge the electrical system. I'll post again soon.
The potential problem with that battery bracket, is that if the trike bottoms out with enough gross weight, you can bend or distort that frame tube because that bracket has only one support. The bracket will place focused impact on that one spot where that bracket is attached. If you are riding down some sidewalks, broken or severely uneven concrete - include street potholes which can cause the trike to bottom out. There should be designed a bottom frame protection bracket on these trikes to keep the frame from bottoming out and hitting concrete. Better yet, have small wheels on the bottom frame bracket so that if the frame bottoms out, the small wheels contact the concrete. If we are talking irregular ground surface, then if the wheels miss, the bracket takes the hit - never the frame. Did I just invent something? Thumbs up.
Morning David! We haven’t spoken for several years, since you were in SoCal, in fact. Except for my comments earlier. I’m looking at converting my TriCon to electric. Not as young as I used to be! Would you do anything different than you did in these videos? Any suggestions?
Hey Stephen. No, I don't think I would change a thing. Since I converted the TRIcon is e-assist, I have acquired another trike with the Shimano E-Steps system; I love the Bafang set up much more. It's way more powerful, especially on hills, and the throttle is great when you get stuck in the wrong gear. When do you think you may add a Bafang to your trike?
@@daveyJ213 no clue yet on timing. Too many money requirements fixing two houses up. I don’t feel secure riding on some of my local roads without a speed boost and my legs just can’t do it. In short, I hope next year will be appropriate Tor another K$ expense!
Hello David, I'm like you, I have an AZUB Tricon and I would like to motorize it with the Bafang motor Where did you find the battery holder and the fixation. Sorry for the translation, I'm French and like many French people I'm bad at English. Sincerely
Hi David, thanks for the Video! I got my AZUB Ti-Fly 26 yesterday and I'm about to mount the BBSHD on it. I was thinking about mounting it like you. Did you ever have any problems with the motor in terms of wanting to move, to get lose?
Hey Harald. Congratulations on your AZUB; you will love it. Yes, the normal mounting hardware supplied with BBSHD will NOT prevent the motor from rotating inside the bottom bracket. No matter how tight you think you can get it, it will not be enough. The motor is too powerful to stay put. I have contacted Utah Trikes to find out the name and current cost of that part. I will comment back again when they answer. It was about $75 plus shipping when I bought it. The bracket keeps the motor down. Otherwise with every bump the motor will bump/rotate upwards and back toward you until it runs into the derailleur post or some other part of the frame. This happened to me on my first ride. The motor had rotated back and pulled the electrical wiring apart. I did not have the proper tools with me, so I was dead in the water. This video explains what happened: ruclips.net/video/aMeMyqZ78cg/видео.html. Go to minute 11:30 and you will see what happened. In chapter 7 you can see the final solution using the special bracket from Utah Trikes. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ3u4a5jrp4/видео.html. Because the AZUB frame tubing is more robust than on the ICE or Cat Trike. I had to add an extension part to make the bracket fit and work properly. Hopefully the guys at Utah Trikes have since manufactured a bracket specifically for the AZUB. Again, I'll find out and let you know. Hopes this helps; I will be in touch.
@@daveyJ213 can you tell me 2 things: Material used for the bracket (Aluminum/steal) and thickness of the part. If they don't have a Azub version I'm thinking of building one. Or in fact two as my wife got the exact same setup... 😁
Hey Harold. Here's the link to the part you should acquire to do your install: www.utahtrikes.com/PROD-11620817.html. It's sold by Utah Trikes. It prevents your motor from rotating in the bottom bracket.
@@daveyJ213 thanks a lot! As it's sold out I ordered a aluminum plate with 1cm thickness. I already made a template and as soon as the plate arrives I will make one.... Thanks a lot and stay safe!
Hi, David, this will be very helpful for me if I ever decide to go with a Bafang on my 2016 TRIcon 20". Would you mind sharing where you picked your Bafang kit up? Thanks for your excellent and inspiring videos! 👍
David, I'm interested in the battery mount and the plate you showed that you bolt to it. I found the mount no problem but where did you get the larger plate? And do you have to have that larger plate to support the battery slide?
Hey, Pete. I ordered the battery mount and plate from a company called Terra Cycle. Their web site is: t-cycle.com. At the top of the page look at the top row of links, and 4th from the left side you will see a link called "Battery Mounts". Everything you need is on that page. I just got off of their site; they currently have 4 of the larger mounting plates left in stock right now. I ordered that particular plate because I knew I was using a larger battery. It's been rock solid. Make sure you tell them the specific trike you are ordering for so they can send the properly sized clamp.
Hey, Lester. Did not know about Nuvinci hubs. Really wanted to re-lace my Bionix motor into a 20" wheel, but none of my local shops were eager to give it a try. That would have saved my many dollars. However, almost done; waiting for two more cables and an accessory mount. Will post again as soon as possible.
Oh, yeah. Internal gearing is nice, but it may a bit fussy. Some riders complain about gear slippage. I prefer the simplicity of the 10-speed derailleur for now. Especially on long 5% mountain climbs; it's good to have the giant low-speed gear in back.
@@daveyJ213 Hello sir, Let me tell you, your videos are so helpful on how to install a bafang bbs02 motor kit on your bike. I have learned a lot from your way of style on who to install, and connect all components. You sure are a great teacher. Thank you for going out of your way to upload this useful video. I have a question for you. I recently purchased the 750watts BBS02 motor and the controller came with two pins that connect to the battery. I'm thinking of converting the wires into Anderson connectors like your motor. Would that be a problem if I take the risk to cut off the wires and change it to Anderson red/black. If so would it be ideal to put the 30amp or the 46amp into the Anderson connectors. What AMP are YOUR connectors and what wire gauge size is the ones from the controller?
Thank you for these videos! I was wondering if this engine would fit my Performer recumbent bike, and your videos provide the clearest details about how this is installed!
I'm very happy the videos are useful. Feel free to write if you have any questions at all. I'll do my best.
I have installed several BBS02 750w and one BBSHD mid-drives on my trikes... I decided to go with the HD because it is easier to replace the reduction gear/axle if something goes wrong.. And i packed the Reduction gear with Black MolyGrease with NGLI-2 Lithium, specifically because this will reduce noise and make it run smoother and cooler. I get twice the miles out of my motors because i pack them.
Thanks for the information, Rob. This is the only installation I have done, and I've so far not experienced any problems with motor performance, other than just trying to keep the motor from rotating in the bottom bracket. Do you have a video or information posted to show how to specifically "pack" the motor? I would be interested in that. Take care.
@@daveyJ213 Hi David.. I learned about this from Bruno... ruclips.net/video/3lVRTRFueUU/видео.html
Make sure it is BLACK MOLY GREASE NGLI2 Lithium .. Any other grease can damage the nylon gears./
This will make your motor work better and last much longer.. My recumbent shop now does this to every install they do as a courtesy..
@@rdkuless Thanks, Rob. I will watch the link, and contact you again when I have a questions.
@@daveyJ213 Hey David.. We talked about adding solar to etrike trailers.. Here is a link to a really amazing install of 3 solar panels on a trike/bobyak trailer... I asked Adam Roy how he wired all three 170w panels to the Genasun and then into the battery without over charging.. He gave an interesting reply: he had 3 genasun boost charge controllers (one for each panel). then all of the positives coming off of the Genasun were tied together and spliced into the positive battery output side. Same with the negative wires from the 3 genasun were spliced into the output side of the battery. I asked him, "how is the battery protected from over charge if they bypass the BMS on the battery.. ?" he said that the BMS protects the battery when wall charging.. The Genasun protects the battery the same way.. The BMS and the Genasun have a charge cut off.. Just make sure you match your battery to the correct Genasun controller.. and you won't over charge.. He said it is more efficient this way.. evidently the charge port and the output side of the batteries are parallel wired.. So either way, the Genasun or the BMS make it safe.. ruclips.net/video/-dJkQ4TgU-A/видео.html
how is your solar project coming along? Rob PDX USA
@@rdkulessHey Rob. The solar trailer is all done and working fine. I switched out to three 12V batteries wired in parallel for a total of 45 amp hours. The solar panel was upgraded to a 100 watt Sun Solar unit with a current output of 5.8 amps and voltage output of 17.5 volts. On my first charging attempt it went fine accept that the inverter started complaining (whining) after about 25 minutes. I checked the batteries and they were down to on 12.6 volts, so perhaps the inverter doesn't let the batteries get below that, or maybe it was cutting out due to heat exhaustion. I'll have to test it more. The trailer is covered by the solar panel fastened to a .25 inch plywood board which is hinged on one side to the top of the trailer. I should post a quick video so you can take a look. Thanks for checking in and for the video link. I checked it out and I must say that entire system is amazing. I love how the panels provide sun and rain protection. So, you ride off of one battery while the other is charging I assume? With a system like that you could ride until your heart is content. Very cool. Take care.
That model railroad is really neat I’d love to see how it looks now since this was years ago.
Thank you sir for providing this useful tips. I REALLY appreciate you going out of your way to do all that.
You are most welcome.
Way cool hope you have a great camping trip
Thanks Lester. Yeah, should be fun. I'll start out with short trips and then go from there.
Thank you so much, David! You and I spent a bit of time together at a bike expo a few years ago where AZUB was also present. I am also planning on adding the motor to my Tricon and just sent a message to the AZUB folks right before I found your videos. It will be fun to see what you accomplish before I tackle mine. Was there a reason for the lower side mount vs a rack mount battery?
Hey Stephen. Yes, two reasons actually. One, I think it would have required replacing the rear rack with one that was specifically designed to carry a battery. I love the original rack that came on the trike and did not want to replace it. Two, wanted to keep the extra weight as low as possible. Fun story: on a bike/packing tour I was carrying 60+ lbs. of gear, camping etc. The rack had some rolled up something on top as well as a small ice chest full of ice. (I know - I know better now). I stopped once roadside, on a slight lean to the right, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Once I dismounted and my weight was no longer on the trike, it tipped over and rolled 15 feet down the side of the hill. I'm lucky it got caught in some underbrush before crashing all the way to the bottom of the hill. Man, I learned that day to keep your load as low as possible.
You do good work! Nice to have good tools
Thanks, Brian. Glad you tuned in. Yeah, proper tools make a difference. In the mean time I'm practicing loading and packing, while also figuring out how to bring a small solar panel along to charge the electrical system. I'll post again soon.
The potential problem with that battery bracket, is that if the trike bottoms out with enough gross weight, you can bend or distort that frame tube because that bracket has only one support. The bracket will place focused impact on that one spot where that bracket is attached. If you are riding down some sidewalks, broken or severely uneven concrete - include street potholes which can cause the trike to bottom out.
There should be designed a bottom frame protection bracket on these trikes to keep the frame from bottoming out and hitting concrete. Better yet, have small wheels on the bottom frame bracket so that if the frame bottoms out, the small wheels contact the concrete. If we are talking irregular ground surface, then if the wheels miss, the bracket takes the hit - never the frame. Did I just invent something? Thumbs up.
Morning David! We haven’t spoken for several years, since you were in SoCal, in fact. Except for my comments earlier. I’m looking at converting my TriCon to electric. Not as young as I used to be! Would you do anything different than you did in these videos? Any suggestions?
Hey Stephen. No, I don't think I would change a thing. Since I converted the TRIcon is e-assist, I have acquired another trike with the Shimano E-Steps system; I love the Bafang set up much more. It's way more powerful, especially on hills, and the throttle is great when you get stuck in the wrong gear. When do you think you may add a Bafang to your trike?
@@daveyJ213 no clue yet on timing. Too many money requirements fixing two houses up. I don’t feel secure riding on some of my local roads without a speed boost and my legs just can’t do it. In short, I hope next year will be appropriate Tor another K$ expense!
Hello David,
I'm like you, I have an AZUB Tricon and I would like to motorize it with the Bafang motor
Where did you find the battery holder and the fixation.
Sorry for the translation, I'm French and like many French people I'm bad at English.
Sincerely
I bought the battery holder from t-cycle.com. They make accessories for many different styles of bicycles and tricycles.
Hi David, thanks for the Video!
I got my AZUB Ti-Fly 26 yesterday and I'm about to mount the BBSHD on it.
I was thinking about mounting it like you. Did you ever have any problems with the motor in terms of wanting to move, to get lose?
Hey Harald. Congratulations on your AZUB; you will love it. Yes, the normal mounting hardware supplied with BBSHD will NOT prevent the motor from rotating inside the bottom bracket. No matter how tight you think you can get it, it will not be enough. The motor is too powerful to stay put.
I have contacted Utah Trikes to find out the name and current cost of that part. I will comment back again when they answer. It was about $75 plus shipping when I bought it. The bracket keeps the motor down. Otherwise with every bump the motor will bump/rotate upwards and back toward you until it runs into the derailleur post or some other part of the frame.
This happened to me on my first ride. The motor had rotated back and pulled the electrical wiring apart. I did not have the proper tools with me, so I was dead in the water. This video explains what happened: ruclips.net/video/aMeMyqZ78cg/видео.html. Go to minute 11:30 and you will see what happened. In chapter 7 you can see the final solution using the special bracket from Utah Trikes. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ3u4a5jrp4/видео.html.
Because the AZUB frame tubing is more robust than on the ICE or Cat Trike. I had to add an extension part to make the bracket fit and work properly. Hopefully the guys at Utah Trikes have since manufactured a bracket specifically for the AZUB. Again, I'll find out and let you know. Hopes this helps; I will be in touch.
@@daveyJ213 thanks for your kind help! Hope to hear from you soon...
@@daveyJ213 can you tell me 2 things: Material used for the bracket (Aluminum/steal) and thickness of the part.
If they don't have a Azub version I'm thinking of building one. Or in fact two as my wife got the exact same setup... 😁
Hey Harold. Here's the link to the part you should acquire to do your install: www.utahtrikes.com/PROD-11620817.html. It's sold by Utah Trikes. It prevents your motor from rotating in the bottom bracket.
@@daveyJ213 thanks a lot! As it's sold out I ordered a aluminum plate with 1cm thickness. I already made a template and as soon as the plate arrives I will make one....
Thanks a lot and stay safe!
Hi, David, this will be very helpful for me if I ever decide to go with a Bafang on my 2016 TRIcon 20". Would you mind sharing where you picked your Bafang kit up? Thanks for your excellent and inspiring videos! 👍
Sorry for the delayed response. I ordered my unit online from www.bafangusadirect.com/Default.asp.
David, I'm interested in the battery mount and the plate you showed that you bolt to it. I found the mount no problem but where did you get the larger plate? And do you have to have that larger plate to support the battery slide?
Hey, Pete. I ordered the battery mount and plate from a company called Terra Cycle. Their web site is: t-cycle.com. At the top of the page look at the top row of links, and 4th from the left side you will see a link called "Battery Mounts". Everything you need is on that page. I just got off of their site; they currently have 4 of the larger mounting plates left in stock right now. I ordered that particular plate because I knew I was using a larger battery. It's been rock solid. Make sure you tell them the specific trike you are ordering for so they can send the properly sized clamp.
What size battery did you go with?
I never place a bracket on the bare powered coat - I place a rubber between the bracket and the frame.
Also ever consider a nuvinci hub in the rear wheel?
Hey, Lester. Did not know about Nuvinci hubs. Really wanted to re-lace my Bionix motor into a 20" wheel, but none of my local shops were eager to give it a try. That would have saved my many dollars. However, almost done; waiting for two more cables and an accessory mount. Will post again as soon as possible.
@@daveyJ213 nuvinci is a cvt of sorts to replace the gears look it up works good with electric motor assist bicycles
Oh, yeah. Internal gearing is nice, but it may a bit fussy. Some riders complain about gear slippage. I prefer the simplicity of the 10-speed derailleur for now. Especially on long 5% mountain climbs; it's good to have the giant low-speed gear in back.
@@daveyJ213 sounds like a good idea to go with what you know. Looking forward to seeing it when your done!
@@daveyJ213
Hello sir,
Let me tell you, your videos are so helpful on how to install a bafang bbs02 motor kit on your bike. I have learned a lot from your way of style on who to install, and connect all components. You sure are a great teacher. Thank you for going out of your way to upload this useful video. I have a question for you.
I recently purchased the 750watts BBS02 motor and the controller came with two pins that connect to the battery. I'm thinking of converting the wires into Anderson connectors like your motor. Would that be a problem if I take the risk to cut off the wires and change it to Anderson red/black. If so would it be ideal to put the 30amp or the 46amp into the Anderson connectors. What AMP are YOUR connectors and what wire gauge size is the ones from the controller?