Happy to share that I since found the sensor plane mark on the Blackmagic Cine 6K near the right-side vent on the top. It was somewhat covered by the cage, but in the end it's mostly my fault for assuming that BM still didn't add this mark to their cameras. Great to finally be able to get the exact measure.
I mounted the lidar on top of the lens and motors on the bottom, made a video about it. Also just found another solution where I mount all of them on the bottom, will make a video. I use Falcam F22 system and a 3D printed part on top.
You are right about many things. I had to wait 2 ½ months for the DJI Focus pro. I screwed this device onto a Sony FX30. First on the Tophandle, but the result was not satisfactory. Now it's on a Nato rail above the lens. Great results. Now looking for a stable attachment for the top handle above it. will probably be a gaer from the 3D printer. Engine noise via Sony's own on-board loudspeakers: Minimally annoying. I think I can get the noise even quieter if not completely muted with Davinci Resolve Studio. Have fun with your rig in the future.
I love the presentation, particularly the lighting and composition. If the motor noise is all low rumble, I can deal with that in Resolve. A dampening mount would help reduce it, or if you had a need that was so precise, mount it elsewhere or get a friend to help.
Thank you for the kind words and good tips! If the lens quickly snaps from infinity to close focus in auto mode, the motor noise is noticeable. But slower pulls are less noticeable. Fixing that in post sounds like a great idea. I will give it some more testing. The experience also differs by lens. My small Sirui lenses make a metallic clicking noise when reaching the hard stop, regardless of motor calibration. The Irix don't do that. Even with those smaller downsides in mind, I am super happy with the Focus Pro. It's such a joy to use.
My suggestion would be to try parts that you perhaps already have available to you. Ideally, I would mount the Lidar below the matte box, for the reasons explained in the video. To do this, I used a simple Smallrig base plate to offset the distance, and a tripod base plate below that to mount the Lidar, as shown in the video. Yet, I wouldn't necessarily buy a new base plate only for that purpose, if I didn't have one at home. I would rather look for a purpose-built Lidar mount instead. What problems you may run into also depends depends on what size of lenses you use, what matte box etc. so it's hard to give general advice. Regardless of Lidar, I really enjoy the Tilta cage with Tilta base plate for this camera, and the way it locks so nicely. I can definitely recommend these Tilta parts. Also very happy with the Tilta Mirage matte box, but again, it's hard to make general suggestions here, because it depends on how you use the camera and with what kinds of lenses.
Haha - yeah I agree, but to be fair, that lens was way too wide open for an interview, at least for my risk awareness. I'm also not quite sure about my calibration, since I don't know the exact distance between the lidar and sensor plane yet. This might improve over time with some testing, not to mention firmware updates. The important part will be to get to know this system and to learn how it performs under what kinds of conditions. You can then always intervene. So far, it already does a better job than me focusing with this camera and lens wide open. This was around T2, but it goes down to T1.5. Coming from Micro Four Thirds, that is crazy shallow on the full frame camera. *PS: and there are different focus sensitivity settings. This here was filmed on 1, the lowest setting, so maybe too slow but that will take some time to figure out what works best.
BS. It does _not_ work with "any lenses". It works with any cinema lenses, or/and lenses with hard stops on the focal ring. And talking zoom lenses, it only works with parfocal ones. Spreading wrong information you do a huge disservice to the community.
That's a good point, but you’re misquoting me here. First, I didn’t say it works with “any lens.” I said: “any manual lens, including anamorphic lenses.” Second, let me ask you how you would define "manual lens. In my understanding, the term "manual lens" commonly refers to lenses that don't have autofocus, and they commonly have hard stops on the focal ring, or am I wrong? And anamorphic lenses are always manual, as far as I know. "Cinema lenses" are typically manual. Additionally, they are characterized by a larger barrel and gears. However, I'm sure the system would have worked just as well with my old small manual MFT Voigtlander lens, which is not a "cine" lens but manual and with hard stops. That's why I think the term manual lens is actually more adequate here than "cinema lens." Anyway, I’ve updated the video description to clarify that the DJI Focus Pro was not designed with autofocus photography lenses in mind. Cheers!
No reason to explain yourself to someone with that atitude @timGraf... People interested in this marvelous product have the basic knowledge of how focussing works or should stay away from ever using a (cinema) camera 😂 Great video and I hope this will help inspire companies like Tilta and Smallrig to assist with custom mounting options for the lidar.
Happy to share that I since found the sensor plane mark on the Blackmagic Cine 6K near the right-side vent on the top. It was somewhat covered by the cage, but in the end it's mostly my fault for assuming that BM still didn't add this mark to their cameras. Great to finally be able to get the exact measure.
Tim, there is a sensor mark on BM cameras! Sometimes, it could be obscured or partially obscured by the cage.
I mounted the lidar on top of the lens and motors on the bottom, made a video about it. Also just found another solution where I mount all of them on the bottom, will make a video. I use Falcam F22 system and a 3D printed part on top.
You are right about many things. I had to wait 2 ½ months for the DJI Focus pro. I screwed this device onto a Sony FX30. First on the Tophandle, but the result was not satisfactory. Now it's on a Nato rail above the lens. Great results. Now looking for a stable attachment for the top handle above it. will probably be a gaer from the 3D printer. Engine noise via Sony's own on-board loudspeakers: Minimally annoying. I think I can get the noise even quieter if not completely muted with Davinci Resolve Studio. Have fun with your rig in the future.
Thank you, And same to you - have fun, now that it finally arrived. Bringing a 3D-printer into the game sounds like a great idea!
I love the presentation, particularly the lighting and composition.
If the motor noise is all low rumble, I can deal with that in Resolve. A dampening mount would help reduce it, or if you had a need that was so precise, mount it elsewhere or get a friend to help.
Thank you for the kind words and good tips! If the lens quickly snaps from infinity to close focus in auto mode, the motor noise is noticeable. But slower pulls are less noticeable. Fixing that in post sounds like a great idea. I will give it some more testing.
The experience also differs by lens. My small Sirui lenses make a metallic clicking noise when reaching the hard stop, regardless of motor calibration. The Irix don't do that. Even with those smaller downsides in mind, I am super happy with the Focus Pro. It's such a joy to use.
So what are the main rigging components needed with and without Mattebox? What’s the name and models ? Thanks
My suggestion would be to try parts that you perhaps already have available to you. Ideally, I would mount the Lidar below the matte box, for the reasons explained in the video. To do this, I used a simple Smallrig base plate to offset the distance, and a tripod base plate below that to mount the Lidar, as shown in the video. Yet, I wouldn't necessarily buy a new base plate only for that purpose, if I didn't have one at home. I would rather look for a purpose-built Lidar mount instead. What problems you may run into also depends depends on what size of lenses you use, what matte box etc. so it's hard to give general advice.
Regardless of Lidar, I really enjoy the Tilta cage with Tilta base plate for this camera, and the way it locks so nicely. I can definitely recommend these Tilta parts. Also very happy with the Tilta Mirage matte box, but again, it's hard to make general suggestions here, because it depends on how you use the camera and with what kinds of lenses.
Who makes a purpose build lidar mount ?
What mic did you mount on your camera ?
That's an Azden SGM-250MX. It has Mini XLR, so works well on the Blackmagic and uses phantom power.
Dude, the whole intro of your video is out of focus hahaha
Haha - yeah I agree, but to be fair, that lens was way too wide open for an interview, at least for my risk awareness. I'm also not quite sure about my calibration, since I don't know the exact distance between the lidar and sensor plane yet. This might improve over time with some testing, not to mention firmware updates. The important part will be to get to know this system and to learn how it performs under what kinds of conditions. You can then always intervene. So far, it already does a better job than me focusing with this camera and lens wide open. This was around T2, but it goes down to T1.5. Coming from Micro Four Thirds, that is crazy shallow on the full frame camera. *PS: and there are different focus sensitivity settings. This here was filmed on 1, the lowest setting, so maybe too slow but that will take some time to figure out what works best.
Actually your face is out of focus in this video.
BS. It does _not_ work with "any lenses".
It works with any cinema lenses, or/and lenses with hard stops on the focal ring.
And talking zoom lenses, it only works with parfocal ones.
Spreading wrong information you do a huge disservice to the community.
That's a good point, but you’re misquoting me here. First, I didn’t say it works with “any lens.” I said: “any manual lens, including anamorphic lenses.” Second, let me ask you how you would define "manual lens. In my understanding, the term "manual lens" commonly refers to lenses that don't have autofocus, and they commonly have hard stops on the focal ring, or am I wrong? And anamorphic lenses are always manual, as far as I know. "Cinema lenses" are typically manual. Additionally, they are characterized by a larger barrel and gears. However, I'm sure the system would have worked just as well with my old small manual MFT Voigtlander lens, which is not a "cine" lens but manual and with hard stops. That's why I think the term manual lens is actually more adequate here than "cinema lens." Anyway, I’ve updated the video description to clarify that the DJI Focus Pro was not designed with autofocus photography lenses in mind. Cheers!
No reason to explain yourself to someone with that atitude @timGraf... People interested in this marvelous product have the basic knowledge of how focussing works or should stay away from ever using a (cinema) camera 😂
Great video and I hope this will help inspire companies like Tilta and Smallrig to assist with custom mounting options for the lidar.