Basement Bathroom Sewage Ejector (Money Saving Trick!)
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2021
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In this video Learn how to plumb a brand new basement bathroom using the pre-existing builder installed sewage ejector. Learn how to move a pre-plumbed basement bathroom location to a new spot...and still use the same builder installed sewage ejector pit .This technique will save you time and some serious MONEY! This is one basement bathroom sewage ejector video that could really make your day!
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Great video, Eddie.
In BFU 2.0, I can’t find an answer to this somewhat related question.
You installed the toilet flange on top of the concrete before finished floor was installed. I’ve heard from others that the flange should be installed on top of the finished floor.
Can you help me understand why you guys put it on top of the concrete? I like your way of doing it.
Yes would love to know also new subscriber to BFU 2.0. Love it!
You can leave it on the concrete floor flat for added support and secureness. It does not need to be put down over top of the flooring if you are using a synthetic plank floor...which is only about 1/8" to 3/16" thick, you can simply cut the flooring around the preinstalled flange and will have no issues with leaks.
If your using tile and thinset mortar base you can also cut around the pre installed flange with no issues. But...you can install the flange after the flooring is installed as well it make no difference, but either way, you will not have a leak issue using synthetic or tile flooring materials cut around the flange. The wax ring will take care of the seal 100% either way.
I like just installing tight to the concrete floor for maximum toilet setting stability. Hope this helps!
Eddie
Totally makes sense. Thanks for your help!
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Your appreciation shows in the content and quality of the videos you continue to put out FOR FREE. We are thankful for your sharing of knowledge and experience. Keep it up Eddie. Cheers!
Thank you J.H.! Appreciate you brother. ~Eddie
Question, why not go with an upflush toilet. They seem a lot less labor intensive, and also appear to be a bit cheaper. Thanks for the great content.
You do a very nice job explaining everything
Thank You Michael! Appreciate the views and your comment. Good luck with your projects my brother! ~Eddie
Excellent teaching
Find a good concrete cutter and save all that time on the jack hammer. Nice clean straight cuts too.
A Concrete cut company cost around $1,000 + to cut this trench and pit. To expensive! Jackie-Chan rental is just $55.00 for a half day rental...best BANG for the buck Chris! ~Eddie
good job & great video
Put out more videos more often and you will build up your channel a lot faster nice work Eddie
EXACTLY! I've got one of these roughed in the middle of my basement, worst place for a bathroom in the whole basement.
I believe drain pipe are scheduled 40 Black ABS. not white PVC. Also see plex to copper to galvanize fittings. Other then that great instructions. Well explained videos.
I'm so thankful for your videos. Almost done framing my basement. I have a question which sewage pump (how many gallons pit ?) can you recommend for the shower, toilet, vanity, and sauna. The main sewage pipe is 8 FT above the bathroom. Also, can the vent be shared with the vent in the laundry? Thank you !
Great video! Just what I needed! Is there a rule or distance from the toilet and the pit that is too great?
I’ve got a rough in like the pit you showed, and also a separate sewer ejector pump for my washing machine. I’m tempted to use the trick you showed to route my washing machine to this other larger pit instead while finishing my basement, as the washing machine one is just a bucket that sits in the floor and vents to the basement air.
Would there be any downsides to moving my washing machine piping to leverage the rough in sewer ejector pit?
Eddie,
I just recently found your videos and your BFU 2.0.
I am in the process of buying a home that still has to be built. I am planning on finishing the basement myself. Does your online course cover code requirements for Canada?
Hi Eddie, Did you guys have to cap the old/previous sink & shower drain lines under the slab? I only seen the single old 4" line in the video to the ejector and expected to see the others from the builder. Is that common? I'm about to get into this exact scenario and figured I would encounter multiple drain lines under the slab going to the ejector.
Question for you. Let's say your ejector pit in the video had a laundry drain pipe draining into the pit through the pit lid via pvc, would you still have used that pit? Or would you just dig another one elsewhere? I have a washer in the basement draining into a pvc pipe affixed to the foundation that runs a few feet over to drain into the ejector pit's lid. Have you ever drilled a new 3" hole into an existing pit to feed a new drain pipe? I want to create a laundry/3 piece bathroom in the basement. It'd be close in proximity to the pit like you described. I recently upgraded to a 3/4 hp Barracuda from Menards. It's overkill for a washer but at least I'm ready for a bathroom.
Thanks for the video! I enjoy them.
Hey Eddie I love your Videos I think I have watched almost all of them and started your course. I have almost the same setup as that basement. I had someone come out and give an estimate. she told me that would be where my sump pump would go after watching this video I think I may have a waste ejector pit there is a pipe about 6 in away
Thanks for watching Anthony! I'm here if you need me during the project. ~Eddie
I like that your ejector is up near the wall near a corner so you can put it in a closet. I’m trying to figure out how to work around an ejector that is 2 feet from the wall and 5 feet away from the corner without eating up a ton of my floor space (only working with about 650 sq ft.).
Currently ejector only used for AC condensation and floor drains for water heater blow off but thinking about putting in a two piece bathroom…. After watching though not sure that I should since the toilet would be right at 30 feet away.
Hi Ryan! Just make sure that your pit is a real sewage ejector pit and not just a sump pump pit! You can't use a sump pump pit for sewage collection and discharge purposes. ~Eddie
Great video Ed but I do have a question. Why do you have sharp 90’s on the discharge lines? I always told to use long turns.
I think that was the vent line
Those are pressure fittings-they’re to be used on the dish charge line of the sewer ejector pump. Long sweep 90’s should have been used there on the horizontal position. The wye fitting on the vent line is facing the wrong way-will it work? Yes but still not correct-especially if it was ever snaked.
you said the bar sink was too far away from the existing ejector pump, so you used a local pump. What is the min and max range of a plumbing fixture to connect to an ejector pit?
Hi Eddie, New subscriber here and really enjoying all you GREAT videos and knowledge sharing. I was wondering, do you need a plumbing permit pulled with inspections for code compliance when you guys have a basement finishing/plumbing project like this ..... or do you have a licensed plumber on call (or in house) that you use to handle the piping and inspections for these jobs if plumbing is involved?
We do our own plumbing in our area of PA and it does not require any type of plumbing license for the permit application. It may be different in your city/township so it's best to simply call your local code department and ask what they require. ~Eddie
Great video! One question as it relates to the original Superior Wall system (I have the same).
What was the reason you / the homeowner added wood studs to frame the walls vs. attaching drywall directly to the existing galvanized stud facings built into the Superior Walls?
Thanks again!
24” centers and no continuous bottom plate make for walls that warp. They also do not have any real inside or outside corners setup for drywall either…plus a host of other reasons that we do not like keep us from using these concrete and steel wall panels.
Eddie
Eddie, your videos are great. Some of my favorite content on RUclips, which brings me to my question. There is so much information in your RUclips videos, would I get any more by buying your course than I can get from your RUclips videos?
Yes Jim…much, much more! Thanks for watching! ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan alrighty then. I’ll be buying it. Thank you for all of your RUclips content.
@@jimmyv1961 Ill see you inside Jim. If you have project questions I'm always available for Q & A's!
Hey BFM!
New sub here! Thanks for all your valuable information!
What is a reliable sewer pump for a full basement bathroom? What’s your favorite sewer pump and why? Thanks!
Hello Mr. Wilson! Home Depot's Everbuilt 3/4 HP Ejector pump. Here's the link to the one I like and use on every basement bathroom>>>> www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-HP-Sewage-Ejector-Pump-ESE60W-HD/312157320
Can you give me any advice on how to get the 4 inch pvc line to seat completely within the rubber gasket in the pit? For the life of me I can only get it about half way in
Grease it up with cooking oil and it should push through. Sometimes you need a rubber mallet and a few good taps on the pvc to knock it through. ~Eddie
Can you tie your vent lines into the vent coming out of the ejector pit?
Yes you can…just make sure all vent lines pitch uphill until they meet the ejector vent line…
@@BasementFinishingMan Thank you. I really enjoy your videos.
Tying back into that existing toilet line, you’ll have greater that, a 90 degree turn. How will that work out? I’m assuming its no big deal.
Not a big deal...we used some 11 degree 3" fittings and gently turned the 3" pipe back into the 4" for a nice unrestricted tie-in point. No issues at all! Thanks for watching. ~Eddie
Where are you based out of?
How would you finish a basement floor that has a drain in the middle?
We would seal the drain and level the slope with floor leveler compound before we install our flooring. ~Eddie
I see there is solid board insulation behind your exterior walls. Are you planning on adding more insulation between your studs or will that all be open?
Yes we add R-15 fiberglass to our new exterior framed 2" x 4" walls... ~Eddie
@@BasementFinishingMan hey Eddie! Do you install a plastic vapor barrier in your basements after insulation or is that not required in your area?
@@raiderxx No we do not, it is not required and...it's not advised to do so.
@@BasementFinishingMan I appreciate your responses! You're in the Harrisburg area right? I think I remembered you saying that at one point (hoping that was you. If not, I mean no offense!). I'm in western PA and finishing a room in my basement. Your videos have been extremely helpful for me to get things right. Thanks for everything you do!
@@BasementFinishingMan not recommended regardless of what part of the country? I am from Boston and trying to figure out if a vapor barrier is needed in basement walls. thanks
1st question. Why not cut floor 2ft leave 1ft cut 2ft, leave 1ft, etc. This would reduce 4ft of cutting on a 12 ft. run. Dirt can still be removed under uncut floor. Im looking to do MINIMAL cutting.
2nd, anyone have experience with Saniflos (on floor) marcerator ejector pumps? Toilet output is in back and goes right in pump unit. Only the shower/tub would have to be rsised 6+ inches for p trap. This would save all cement cutting.
In this video Learn how to plumb a brand new basement bathroom using the pre-existing builder installed sewage ejector. Learn how to move a pre-plumbed basement bathroom location to a new spot...and still use the same builder installed sewage ejector pit .This technique will save you time and some serious MONEY! This is one basement bathroom sewage ejector video that could really make your day!
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You had enough fall?
Yes sir! Plenty of pitch on that 3" line from the toilet to the pit! ~Eddie
Plumbing all set up in room from basement bathroom, doesnt want it there because of exercise equipment...silly
Soooo, you've decided to jack the foundation that is 12+ feet long, 4 inches thick, plus 2 feet deep of dirt from the jacked foundation over pulling the ejector sewage pit and filling it back up with the 3 feet deep dirt from a relocated whole!? STUPID, or a SCAM!
Go suck an Egg!...you obviously don't understand the 1st thing about how a hydrostatic water pressure release system works. Try just commenting on just topics you actually understand something about....
@@BasementFinishingMan You're absolutely right as I have no clue about hydrostatic water pressure or plumbing for that matter, but STUPID I am not! Cheers!
@@productdirector never implied that you’re stupid! Cheers brother!
I don’t understand what this guy is so upset about, and why does his face look like that?
Enough about using the same ejector pit! Once, twice, talking about it but half of this video is saying the same thing.
Talking about your darn lunker fishing boat in every video you make is no different brother! At least I change the subject in every video.