Excellent and unusually specific. I’ve been using the Dynapro AT (not AT2) and I’ll be looking for something similar when it comes time to replace. A couple of problems with them is they are not a LT tyre (so not ‘106/103R’) and don’t have the ‘3PMSF’ logo (so aren’t technically bob-on for winter driving in places where this is necessary, at least my set don’t have this). I didn’t know about the dual weight rating for LT tyres and found this: “The load index on light truck tyres is different from that of passenger cars: it usually has two ratings separated by a slash. This is because most light truck tyres are designed to be used in a dual back wheel system with two tyres side by side. The first number is the load rating when the tyre is used alone and the second is the rating when it is used as a dual tyre. The dual rating is usually lower to cover situations where one tyre in the pair fails and the other has to carry the full load.” It’s on a Pirelli website and I don’t think you got this spot on, but no dramas. Anyway thanks for going into the details. I wasn’t aware of the wheel-size website and very grateful to you for including that. I also didn’t realise the many types of tyre sizes fitted to the H100.
The industry expert vs professional thing is very spot on and the doctor example is really relevant as of the last few years but I see this in all fields. They put an "expert" on the tele who gets even the basic stuff all wrong because they just repeat what they've been told without question and without that passion and drive to explore why something is the way it is. "Expert" to me is now a red flag and just like with the tyre example I have so many examples of "experts" in my field giving the opposite of the right advice to people. There's two things that I, as an every day idiot, wonder: 1) Does weight change pressure? For example if I put 30psi in a tyre, and then load the car/van up with as much weight as possible would that weight increase the pressure? Probably a stupid question but it came to mind like sitting on a air mattress makes it harder (But that might be for different reasons like displacement). 2) What is the recommended tyre pressure? We know the max but how do we figure out what to run at? Do we use the recommended number on the sticker on the car, for example 50psi? How is that number generated? And does it get thrown out the window once you change tyres? If so how do we work out what to run at? If not, how does it work, how do they calculate that number and make it work for all tyres? Thanks for all your vids and effort you put in!
Hey thanks 👍 Weight doesn't increase tyre pressure but you should increase the tyre pressure when heavily loaded. When I had my Landcruiser I used to run 38psi all the time except when I would travel across the country heavily loaded and you could see the tyres bulging flat on the ground. I used to increase it to 45psi in those instances. Car manufacturers have to strike a safe balance with the pressure they recommend for all climates and types of driving (suburban, cross country etc). That's why most workshops will put 38psi in where a tyre place-card says 33psi. It's really an art to finding the right pressure for your car. As an example I ran 36psi in Vision when I first got it but it was squishy. Went up to 38psi and was getting some abnormal wear on the outer edges meaning too low pressure. I now run 41psi and it's in its perfect spot and handles great. At a rental car place I recently worked at all cars had generic pressures signposted on the walls. Small hatchbacks (Swift, I30) 35psi, sedans (Camry, Subaru Legacy) 38psi and 4wds 40psi.
What can be done for my Toyota super custom...I changed the transfer case some time back and now it counts low millage...it doesn't count the exact distance
good vid. How you finding the kumo's so far? The AT tyre game has been a mind field... They all carry such subjective reviews. The wildpeak, open country , grabbers are in my finalist's of tyres to get... Bridgestone 697's are also a comparable tyre .. Hard to find General Grabbers at the moment ...
Hello I don't drive that much so these have done 14,000kms only however that's with 2x very wet winters and one (about to be two) extremely hot Aussie summers. All is well with them can't fault. Things I've learnt. 1) the outside tread blocks started being pushed slightly lower than the block behind them for the first 10k. I rotated them twice and now the treads firmed up its not doing it anymore. 2) They've developed a light rumble on coarse roads which is a really satisfying sound...it's not annoying or intrusive. I suspect this is from the tread compound getting firmer.
Timestamps and Chapters
Intro 0:00
Sizes 1:40
Types 4:25
Reading Tyre 11:20
Load Rating 12:05
Speed Rating 15:51
Pressures & Failures 18:15
Tyre Retailers 23:52
Maintenance 32:03
Lifespan 34:05
Expiry 36:14
Recommended All Terrains 36:58
Excellent and unusually specific. I’ve been using the Dynapro AT (not AT2) and I’ll be looking for something similar when it comes time to replace. A couple of problems with them is they are not a LT tyre (so not ‘106/103R’) and don’t have the ‘3PMSF’ logo (so aren’t technically bob-on for winter driving in places where this is necessary, at least my set don’t have this).
I didn’t know about the dual weight rating for LT tyres and found this: “The load index on light truck tyres is different from that of passenger cars: it usually has two ratings separated by a slash. This is because most light truck tyres are designed to be used in a dual back wheel system with two tyres side by side. The first number is the load rating when the tyre is used alone and the second is the rating when it is used as a dual tyre. The dual rating is usually lower to cover situations where one tyre in the pair fails and the other has to carry the full load.” It’s on a Pirelli website and I don’t think you got this spot on, but no dramas.
Anyway thanks for going into the details. I wasn’t aware of the wheel-size website and very grateful to you for including that. I also didn’t realise the many types of tyre sizes fitted to the H100.
Good luck, Nathan!🎥👍
"We're gonna assume you're an idiot". You're goddamn right.
Nathan, you really know your stuff man. Getting lots of useful tips from your posts. Thanks
Thanks Dave 🖐️.
Cars are my passion. Like any passion I never stop learning because it's all interesting to me.
The industry expert vs professional thing is very spot on and the doctor example is really relevant as of the last few years but I see this in all fields. They put an "expert" on the tele who gets even the basic stuff all wrong because they just repeat what they've been told without question and without that passion and drive to explore why something is the way it is. "Expert" to me is now a red flag and just like with the tyre example I have so many examples of "experts" in my field giving the opposite of the right advice to people.
There's two things that I, as an every day idiot, wonder:
1) Does weight change pressure? For example if I put 30psi in a tyre, and then load the car/van up with as much weight as possible would that weight increase the pressure? Probably a stupid question but it came to mind like sitting on a air mattress makes it harder (But that might be for different reasons like displacement).
2) What is the recommended tyre pressure? We know the max but how do we figure out what to run at? Do we use the recommended number on the sticker on the car, for example 50psi? How is that number generated? And does it get thrown out the window once you change tyres? If so how do we work out what to run at? If not, how does it work, how do they calculate that number and make it work for all tyres?
Thanks for all your vids and effort you put in!
Hey thanks 👍
Weight doesn't increase tyre pressure but you should increase the tyre pressure when heavily loaded.
When I had my Landcruiser I used to run 38psi all the time except when I would travel across the country heavily loaded and you could see the tyres bulging flat on the ground. I used to increase it to 45psi in those instances.
Car manufacturers have to strike a safe balance with the pressure they recommend for all climates and types of driving (suburban, cross country etc).
That's why most workshops will put 38psi in where a tyre place-card says 33psi.
It's really an art to finding the right pressure for your car. As an example I ran 36psi in Vision when I first got it but it was squishy.
Went up to 38psi and was getting some abnormal wear on the outer edges meaning too low pressure.
I now run 41psi and it's in its perfect spot and handles great.
At a rental car place I recently worked at all cars had generic pressures signposted on the walls.
Small hatchbacks (Swift, I30) 35psi, sedans (Camry, Subaru Legacy) 38psi and 4wds 40psi.
What can be done for my Toyota super custom...I changed the transfer case some time back and now it counts low millage...it doesn't count the exact distance
Hi Nathan…. My Toyota Granvia has the same 15 inch wheels as yours… I’m running 215 commercial tyres as that’s what was available in Uk
good vid.
How you finding the kumo's so far?
The AT tyre game has been a mind field...
They all carry such subjective reviews.
The wildpeak, open country , grabbers are in my finalist's of tyres to get...
Bridgestone 697's are also a comparable tyre ..
Hard to find General Grabbers at the moment ...
Hello
I don't drive that much so these have done 14,000kms only however that's with 2x very wet winters and one (about to be two) extremely hot Aussie summers. All is well with them can't fault.
Things I've learnt.
1) the outside tread blocks started being pushed slightly lower than the block behind them for the first 10k. I rotated them twice and now the treads firmed up its not doing it anymore.
2) They've developed a light rumble on coarse roads which is a really satisfying sound...it's not annoying or intrusive. I suspect this is from the tread compound getting firmer.
Nathan. Do you have any recommendations on radiator upgrades?
No sorry