SPOILER ALERT!!! I was having a heck of day doing the voice over for this one. I put the wrong mixing ratio for StoneCoat Super Cast it is NOT 1:1 it is 2:1. I am so sorry for the confusion and hope that you all see this!
Easily one of best and most detailed instructional videos I’ve seen!! Stone Coat need to use your tutorial for lessons to their customer base. I learned a lot. Thanks!!
So many great tips! Thank you, thank you! I might now be finally able to take the plunge. You answered so many questions ive had and calmed a bunch of fears. I saved this one and hopefully ill be able to find it for note taking. Great video, excellent presentation! Loved it!
Great video, like others have mentioned I have learnt a lot just from watching. One question when you are doing the final 3 pours and the bottom edge or underside of the slab/ table has all the drips of epoxy on the edge. How do you go about cleaning that up and also how would you go about it if you wanted to seal the bottom of the table with say one coat of epoxy ? How do you stop the epoxy from creeping or dripping whilst drying ? Would you do the main top of the table first and finish with the underside or other way round ? Appreciate the feedback thx again, great easy to follow video.
Hi thanks for asking. All that foots free was lost sorry. They get sanded off w 60 grit on a random orbital sander or you can use a 50 grit sanding disk on an angle grinder. I usually finish the bottom with poly or lacquer. I’ll be updating this video soon so stay tuned and thanks for engaging.
Nice video thanks. I was wondering if u could help me? Wondering if I can use a flat trowl instead of a knotched one and eliminate the step with the silicone brush? Thanks
So you can you just want to spread it even. A better idea is doubling up on gloves and using your hand. Better control that way. You double up so you can peel off the dirty set so you don’t get resin all over your heat source.
Hi. You can but a better option is to double up on gloves and move it around that way. Better control. Then peel off the outer glove so you don’t get resin everywhere.
Hello! Thanks for the response. I was wondering about the epoxy resin pour on a slab. So I could do an epoxy resin flood coat on one side of the slab, allow it to fully cure then do the epoxy pour on the other side and it will all work out on the edges of the slab?
Yeah you will have to sand drips on both sides but that is totally possible. Flood coat the bottom FIRST that way you sand the top off and then when you you flood coat the top the drips you sand will be on the bottom if that makes sense.
Yes that makes sense. I am at the beginning stages now of filling cracks with black colored epoxy resin. I appreciate your response and help with my question. Thank you, Craig
I have a new table that I wanna make after a couple practice pieces. This slab has a decent crack at the one end and was wondering if I needed to bowtie it before the epoxy or if an epoxy fill would be enough to hold it together in the future?
Hey Mike. Not at all. Great question and thanks for asking. Resin acts as a glue and has more than enough holding power therefore bow ties are not necessary. When you purchase from StoneCoat Countertops Epoxy use my discount code thecraftyweiner for 10% off your purchase and reach out with any questions. 🤘🏻
Hey there.. great great video that answered almost all my questions! But I am curious.. you said you use 3oz of flood coat but didn’t clarify which stone coat product you used for that. Did you use the same countertop epoxy that you used for the seal coats on the flood coat or??
Scott!! Awesome video!!! Looks like you got a bigger shop too!! 👍 question I have though when using epoxy and have never seen or heard anyone address. Do you just leave the underside alone with no finish? Or is there something you need to do for the underside? If you do nothing to the underside can that cause warping? But great job and video!!
Thanks man really appreciate it. I honestly forgot to address it and will be dropping and linking a short on how to handle it no later than Saturday. Stay Tuned!
I’m currently doing a table like that with a long split also. It’s about 2/16?? of an inch 3mm with a lip. I’ve clamped it level, im wondering if the resin will hold it level once it dries or should I lock it with some dowels or something else. My gap is about as wide as yours
Hey there, thanks for asking. you should be fine with a 3mm crack. the resin will bind it. If you are concerned you could router in channels and support it with some dowels. Post a photo so I can see it.
The questions that seem to evade most online docs or videos are the volume/time/temperature triangle (with humidity a play too). I have been a novice woodworker for two years and still have not really "figured this out" from any source. I have filled gaps and such in wood, some modestly big. Curing is the complexity per an epoxy solution. Where can we get help with that?
Hey! Depends on the temperature that I pour at. The bottle says 72 hours, but if the top is hard to the touch you can do it in as little as 36. Thanks for asking!
Did the red epoxy not bleed into the wood? I just did this but with black mica powder on my spalted maple slab. It sorta bled into surrounding wood. I had to sand it down a LOT to remove it. Some people say you can use sanding sealer before the epoxy so this doesn’t happen. What do you think?
Hey Justin, thanks for asking. For us it really didn't but you have a valid point it CAN. You can definitely seal the wood with sanding sealer or even some penetrating resin if you want before you pour. If you are going to use resin as a top coat go with penetrating, if not go with sanding sealer. Do you know how to make your own penetrating resin?
I have a slab that has a couple cracks. I'm planning to fill with West System 2-part epoxy. Question: does the epoxy top coat add any structural integrity to the crack? Or does filling the crack do the job? I ask because I want to use polyurethane as a finish instead of epoxy. Thanks!
Hey Andrew. Thanks for watching and asking. Filling the crack will be fine. We used an epoxy top coat because this is going to be a coffee bar. Any top coat is fine. Thanks again for asking and reach out with any questions! 🤘🏻
@@the_crafty_studio_official Thanks for the reply. I'm still on the fence about bowties, though. I had an idea. What if I cut out the bowtie impression, but instead of putting in a wood bow tie, I fill it with epoxy. Once the epoxy hardens, would that create the added structural strength that a bow tie would create? Seems easier than cutting the bow ties, plus I don't have a bandsaw, and these will be on the underside so I don't care that much about how they look.
Thank you to those that reached out about finishing the bottom of the table. We lost footage so here is a short that addresses it! Have an amazing day! ruclips.net/video/rQb5EU170DE/видео.html
table has nice color etc BUT epoxy tables are soooooo gross. just use epoxy sparingly for voids etc and go with an oil finish for the actual wood. pro tip of the day!!
hello, i am just starting this video, aprox. 7 min. in. oops gotta call bull---- on stone coat being scratch proof. not even close. very easy to scratch. i am a woodworker, albeit a beginner, but i require you to back up your claim. make a believer of me and i will be a loyal customer. thankyou. now i will finish your video.
No one’s gonna mention it because it’s a ridiculous disproven notion. The tools don’t make the woodworker. This has been a known fact for at least 300 years. André-Jacob Roubo talked about it in his book; l'Art du Menuisier, it’s without a doubt the most important woodworking book of the 1700’s. If you suck, you suck, no tool will make you better. In fact the same holds true for every specialist field there ever was. For example, I could give you a $100K in Nikon gear, but you still couldn’t take an award winning wildlife photo. Or if I gave you a million dollars worth of neurosurgical instruments, you still couldn’t safely remove a brain tumor. But I suspect you knew all this before you posted. And if I’m right, you’re either making a negative comment because you are jealous that you can’t afford Festool, or you simply like to be mean. Either way, not cool.
@@KingsFineWoodworking WTF. What a strange and silly person you are. Festool makes a fine machine. I said it makes quick work not it turns you into Michaelangelo. Please re-read. Also pls try a Festool orbital compared to something like craftsman and do it with the dust collection unit inside your house. Festool is superior. Also please stop being a weirdo. Thanks
@@KingsFineWoodworking PS please try making any sort of lumber from logs with a handsaw then come back here and tell me about how better tools don't help you.
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SPOILER ALERT!!! I was having a heck of day doing the voice over for this one. I put the wrong mixing ratio for StoneCoat Super Cast it is NOT 1:1 it is 2:1. I am so sorry for the confusion and hope that you all see this!
Easily one of best and most detailed instructional videos I’ve seen!!
Stone Coat need to use your tutorial for lessons to their customer base.
I learned a lot.
Thanks!!
You are so kind my friend 🥰
So many great tips! Thank you, thank you!
I might now be finally able to take the plunge. You answered so many questions ive had and calmed a bunch of fears. I saved this one and hopefully ill be able to find it for note taking. Great video, excellent presentation!
Loved it!
Hi Bill. Thank you so much. Feel free to reach out anytime with questions.
Great video, like others have mentioned I have learnt a lot just from watching.
One question when you are doing the final 3 pours and the bottom edge or underside of the slab/ table has all the drips of epoxy on the edge. How do you go about cleaning that up and also how would you go about it if you wanted to seal the bottom of the table with say one coat of epoxy ? How do you stop the epoxy from creeping or dripping whilst drying ? Would you do the main top of the table first and finish with the underside or other way round ? Appreciate the feedback thx again, great easy to follow video.
Hi thanks for asking. All that foots free was lost sorry. They get sanded off w 60 grit on a random orbital sander or you can use a 50 grit sanding disk on an angle grinder. I usually finish the bottom with poly or lacquer. I’ll be updating this video soon so stay tuned and thanks for engaging.
Nice video thanks. I was wondering if u could help me? Wondering if I can use a flat trowl instead of a knotched one and eliminate the step with the silicone brush? Thanks
So you can you just want to spread it even. A better idea is doubling up on gloves and using your hand. Better control that way. You double up so you can peel off the dirty set so you don’t get resin all over your heat source.
Hi. You can but a better option is to double up on gloves and move it around that way. Better control. Then peel off the outer glove so
you don’t get resin everywhere.
@@the_crafty_studio_official ahhh sounds good thank ya
How would you coat the top and bottom of a slab board to use as a fireplace mantel? Thank you
Hi Craig. Any option you have at hand will work as long as you allow it to cure fully. Are you asking about resin coatings or oil based finishes?
Hello! Thanks for the response. I was wondering about the epoxy resin pour on a slab. So I could do an epoxy resin flood coat on one side of the slab, allow it to fully cure then do the epoxy pour on the other side and it will all work out on the edges of the slab?
Yeah you will have to sand drips on both sides but that is totally possible. Flood coat the bottom FIRST that way you sand the top off and then when you you flood coat the top the drips you sand will be on the bottom if that makes sense.
Yes that makes sense. I am at the beginning stages now of filling cracks with black colored epoxy resin. I appreciate your response and help with my question. Thank you, Craig
How long do you wait before sanding the seal coats? 72 hours? 7 days? Everything else in the video was very good. Thanks
Hi. Thanks for asking. You can sand after 24 hours or when you are sure the top is cured. Depending on your pour conditions, I’ve sanding at 12 hours.
I have a new table that I wanna make after a couple practice pieces. This slab has a decent crack at the one end and was wondering if I needed to bowtie it before the epoxy or if an epoxy fill would be enough to hold it together in the future?
Hey Mike. Not at all. Great question and thanks for asking. Resin acts as a glue and has more than enough holding power therefore bow ties are not necessary. When you purchase from StoneCoat Countertops Epoxy use my discount code thecraftyweiner for 10% off your purchase and reach out with any questions. 🤘🏻
Great video. I love working with epoxy.
Thank You! I am glad that you liked it. Would love to see some of your projects.
Hey there.. great great video that answered almost all my questions! But I am curious.. you said you use 3oz of flood coat but didn’t clarify which stone coat product you used for that. Did you use the same countertop epoxy that you used for the seal coats on the flood coat or??
Hi. Yes standard countertop epoxy for the flood and seal coats. 1 oz per square ft for seal coats and 3 per square foot for flood. Thanks for asking
I saw one video where they used hot glue instead of silicone for the dams. Does that work?
Yes that will work as well but depending on the depth of your pour the exothermic reaction it could fail
Scott!! Awesome video!!! Looks like you got a bigger shop too!! 👍 question I have though when using epoxy and have never seen or heard anyone address. Do you just leave the underside alone with no finish? Or is there something you need to do for the underside? If you do nothing to the underside can that cause warping? But great job and video!!
Thanks man really appreciate it. I honestly forgot to address it and will be dropping and linking a short on how to handle it no later than Saturday. Stay Tuned!
@@the_crafty_studio_official awesome I appreciate that!! Can’t wait!
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m currently doing a table like that with a long split also. It’s about 2/16?? of an inch 3mm with a lip. I’ve clamped it level, im wondering if the resin will hold it level once it dries or should I lock it with some dowels or something else. My gap is about as wide as yours
Hey there, thanks for asking. you should be fine with a 3mm crack. the resin will bind it. If you are concerned you could router in channels and support it with some dowels. Post a photo so I can see it.
The questions that seem to evade most online docs or videos are the volume/time/temperature triangle (with humidity a play too). I have been a novice woodworker for two years and still have not really "figured this out" from any source. I have filled gaps and such in wood, some modestly big. Curing is the complexity per an epoxy solution. Where can we get help with that?
What exactly are you having trouble with as it pertains to curing?
How long do you wait to do the first sanding on the crack pours
Hey! Depends on the temperature that I pour at. The bottle says 72 hours, but if the top is hard to the touch you can do it in as little as 36. Thanks for asking!
Very cool project.
These are always fun to do!
Very helpful and useful info!
🤟🏻
Nice instructional video
Thank you so much. We’re glad you enjoyed it! 🤘🏻
Did the red epoxy not bleed into the wood? I just did this but with black mica powder on my spalted maple slab. It sorta bled into surrounding wood. I had to sand it down a LOT to remove it.
Some people say you can use sanding sealer before the epoxy so this doesn’t happen. What do you think?
Hey Justin, thanks for asking. For us it really didn't but you have a valid point it CAN. You can definitely seal the wood with sanding sealer or even some penetrating resin if you want before you pour. If you are going to use resin as a top coat go with penetrating, if not go with sanding sealer. Do you know how to make your own penetrating resin?
I have a slab that has a couple cracks. I'm planning to fill with West System 2-part epoxy.
Question: does the epoxy top coat add any structural integrity to the crack? Or does filling the crack do the job? I ask because I want to use polyurethane as a finish instead of epoxy.
Thanks!
Hey Andrew. Thanks for watching and asking. Filling the crack will be fine. We used an epoxy top coat because this is going to be a coffee bar. Any top coat is fine. Thanks again for asking and reach out with any questions! 🤘🏻
@@the_crafty_studio_official Thanks for the reply. I'm still on the fence about bowties, though. I had an idea. What if I cut out the bowtie impression, but instead of putting in a wood bow tie, I fill it with epoxy. Once the epoxy hardens, would that create the added structural strength that a bow tie would create?
Seems easier than cutting the bow ties, plus I don't have a bandsaw, and these will be on the underside so I don't care that much about how they look.
Awesome !!!!
Thank you! I’m glad that you enjoyed it! 🤘🏻
oh bow tie, got it
I do my best to incorporate dad humor whenever I can.
Thank you to those that reached out about finishing the bottom of the table. We lost footage so here is a short that addresses it! Have an amazing day!
ruclips.net/video/rQb5EU170DE/видео.html
table has nice color etc BUT epoxy tables are soooooo gross. just use epoxy sparingly for voids etc and go with an oil finish for the actual wood. pro tip of the day!!
I think it depends on the application of the end user. While I agree oil finishes are amazing, there is a case for epoxy top coats.
hello, i am just starting this video, aprox. 7 min. in. oops gotta call bull---- on stone coat being scratch proof. not even close. very easy to scratch. i am a woodworker, albeit a beginner, but i require you to back up your claim. make a believer of me and i will be a loyal customer. thankyou. now i will finish your video.
Nobody's gonna mention the quality of your tools? Festool makes quick and quality work of almost anything
No one’s gonna mention it because it’s a ridiculous disproven notion. The tools don’t make the woodworker. This has been a known fact for at least 300 years.
André-Jacob Roubo talked about it in his book; l'Art du Menuisier, it’s without a doubt the most important woodworking book of the 1700’s.
If you suck, you suck, no tool will make you better.
In fact the same holds true for every specialist field there ever was.
For example, I could give you a $100K in Nikon gear, but you still couldn’t take an award winning wildlife photo. Or if I gave you a million dollars worth of neurosurgical instruments, you still couldn’t safely remove a brain tumor.
But I suspect you knew all this before you posted. And if I’m right, you’re either making a negative comment because you are jealous that you can’t afford Festool, or you simply like to be mean. Either way, not cool.
@@KingsFineWoodworking WTF. What a strange and silly person you are. Festool makes a fine machine. I said it makes quick work not it turns you into Michaelangelo. Please re-read. Also pls try a Festool orbital compared to something like craftsman and do it with the dust collection unit inside your house. Festool is superior. Also please stop being a weirdo. Thanks
@@KingsFineWoodworking PS please try making any sort of lumber from logs with a handsaw then come back here and tell me about how better tools don't help you.
I’ll happily mention how much I love my tools. I’m sorry you don’t like yours.
@@the_crafty_studio_official I should have just said. I love your tools 🤣 Keep making great videos!