This video is a great instructional video. Not just a parts replacement video, but a solid teaching video. Why would anyone give this a thumbs down? Good work sir!
@@Sales-fm9mz Totally agreed. Talk about teaching a man to fish. I’ve now tested so many valves for various cars and can attribute that to this video. Saved a ton Of $ and frustration.
Mr. CarsNToys: Absoloutely the best clearest explanation out of several dozens I've heard so far.... Totally agree, IMO you can ground the multimeter that way, thats the best ground, that you can find on a vehicle (using a negative grounded electrical system) IS THE BATTERY GROUND. The entire vehicle relys on that (battery negative terminal to frame) or no#2 the engine connection from starting the engine to reliably connecting everything that needs an positive electrical charge need a ground to complete the circuit.. Naturally you don't want sparks near where battery gasses are vented.. Any one contemplating these tests needs to learn the best practices re auto electrical diagnostics. There are enough authorative sources freely available today..
I gotta say you are very clear and thorough in descriptions and diagrams...i commend you for that... Nothing irritates more than people leaving out key steps and information....thanks for your efforts ..im sure i am going to solve my issues with my Evap problems going by your guide...cant thank you enough...
Thank you for being simpathetic to those us who need the level of care you provide to walk through and teach your viewers how it is done. The confidence i have gained because of your knowledge and teaching method is huge. Prosperity and blessings to you and yours.
I also have the P1445 code on my 1997 Nissan Pathfinder. Makes a loud rattling sound when accelerating and a lot of steam comes from the engine bay when I come to a stop. Still runs for short distances at a time though before stalling.
My 1996 Nissan Maxima is the same generation as this 1997 Maxima in the video. So I have already spent more than I care to admit in trying to rid my car of the P1445 DTC. The service I employed did rid the P0325 Anti-knock and P1400 EGR selenoid, DTCs, however, not the P1445 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve DTC. So in using your video, I find infinite resistance between 4 and 5 terminals on the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve connector (PN 149303M201) and not the 30 ohms cited in the video (checked a couple of times). Now my question is could that infinite resistance be due to a malfunctioning EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (PN 1493354U0A) or is it time to replace the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve connector (PN 149303M201; more expensive than PN 1493354U0A)? My wallet is hurting for a car totaled by insurance for hail damage. Is the vacuum device you show for testing the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve a hand induced vacuum, and where can I purchase the tool, Harbor Freight? Lastly, where does the EVAP Canister Purge Control Selenoid Valve (PN 1493554U1A) fit into the picture, and are there tests to rule its malfunctioning out of the picture?
Absolutely fantastic video! You've got presentation skills! I've got a 1998 Maxima with a code P1493. My limited research indicates this is for the EVAP purge solenoid. This video will be a big help in troubleshooting! Could an EVAP issue cause hard starting? My car typically takes three or four tries before she wants to start. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Damien Gregory Glad to help, Damien. P1493 is a trouble code for the EVAP canister purge control valve / solenoid valve. It could be a number of things; including EVAP canister purge control valve, EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve, EVAP pressure sensore, EVAP canister vent control valve, clogged vacuum hoses/disconnected or EVAP canister saturated with water. I have a bunch of EVAP videos at carsntoys.net - Click on auto repair and then the EVAP section. That should help you check the system. Cheers.
I know this is old but I just went thru this with my 97 hardbody truck which has a similar set up. When the charcoal canister fails, powdery bits can get inside this and cause it to fail to the point it has to be replaced. On my old one, everything seemed to be good following the service manual checklist but you want to make sure that the plunger inside is not just moving but that it's actually sealing otherwise you may bet a evap small leak which can refer to all sorts of things. You won't necessarily a 1445 error. I replaced this but now I'm not getting any vacuum to the purge valve and I'm not sure why. It's the purge control valve that opens the purge line to release the vapors to the control volume solenoid.
excellent. so grateful for your effort. I actually do not have this problem I just really enjoy watching great instructional videos. if you have a moment, is there a rule for when to test volt and when to test ohm. Thanks so much.
Best instructional video I've seen! Your clones should be planted in the field of medicine instead of mechanics...failed smog checks are nothing compared to the cost of Doctors who lack your skills and can't communicate.
Did everything as said in the video. the valve and the sensor work well electrically speaking . Does the valve need to hold Vacuum? The valve its self moves and functions normally but im not sure if it holds vaccum or if its even supposed too?
I have a 1996 Maxima ( 156 000 miles ) and it moves very slow if at all in reverse gear when engine is cold. Will not reverse at all when engine is hot. Everything else works great since I maintain it well. Should I have the transmission rebuilt ( $1500 ) and keep the car or just get another car ?
I have a 98 Maxima, throwing code P1447. I've checked all valves, replaced the charcoal canister, check for vacuum leaks with a pump and soapy water test. I've also used cleaner in multiple parts and hoses to clean out any possible carbon deposits built up in the system. Any ideas would be helpful. thank you.
would a faulty one cause your car to die while drivingk or idling and dying after a few minutes), then turning back on after a few minutes? Great video btw!
I'll try to make this short: Can this cause my 96 maxima to die after exiting highway on hot temp days? After I exit from hours on highway it dies. If I open gas cap major vapor is released. Runs fine after cool down and runs fine in the city. The lines are full of charcoal up to engine bay. I always had the code but was told it's just emissions crap so I didn't worry about it. Engine getting vapor causing it do die? Has charcoal been sucked into intake? Do I gotta replace all of the parts? Ty for video
Thanks for the video and hopefully I will be getting closer to isolating the problem. Everything checked out except for the male side of the EVAP purge volume control valve. All the terminals read ~30 ohms except for terminals 2,1. all they read is 1. So you think I should replace the whole unit or keep troubleshooting?
CarsNToys It's a 96 manual non abs maxima SE with Cattman headers, greddy catback, stock ECM, Intake. Hope that helps. Let me know because my car's registration is dead, so my tags are dead, and am running on borrowed time.
CarsNToys I rechecked the volume valve and the 6th terminal seems to be faulty. When I test terminals 5,4 I get ~30ohms but when I test terminals 5,6 all I get is a 1. Wish this could be fixed somehow besides going to the dealer for $220. Plus going to junkyards 45 mins away to pull the part for them to tell me it will be 175 -+ does not appeal to me either.
CarsNToys I went to the junkyard and pulled the only control valve they had and tested it. Can you believe that on the one I pulled had a faulty 3rd terminal? I'm just assuming its faulty because when I test 2,3 it reads 1. Just like my faulty control valve that read also a 1 on terminal test 5,6. Does this mean those terminals are faulty?
RIPTIDER69 Your '96 Maxima should read 30 ohms on connectors 2&1, 2&3, 5&4 and 5&6. When you did the ohms test did you disconnect the harness connector going to the control valve?
i have a ranger 97. just replaced plugs and wire with a full tune up 2 months ago. i am getting a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5 along with a purge flow sensor circuit high input. do these have any relation to eachother that can narrow down the issue? any input is def appreciated, thank you sir! :)
If is someone wants to upload this kind of videos here on youtube...PLEASE FALLOW THIS AWESON PRESENTATION FROM THIS GUY AND LEARN HOW TO DO A GOOD VIDEO...DO NOT MAKE US WASTE OUR TIME WATCHING CRAPPY VIDEOS JUST MADE TO SHOW YOURSELF ON HERE....SUPER GOOD VIDEO THIS ONE.
If you don't like it don't watch it. Excuse me, I should translate what I just wrote into your own language: IF YOU DON"T LIKEEES THE VIDEO THEN DON"TS WATCH ITS
Hi, Great Vid. My son has a 2006 Nissan Altima and the check engine light is on continuously. A scan was done and a code P0443 was generated. Can this be a defective EVAP Canister Purge Volume Solenoid Valve? From your experience, if it is, is this 'issue' detrimental to the overall performance of the engine? What would your recommendation(s) be? Thanks in advance.
Jerome Marquez Very often, the rubber hosing connecting the EVAP system cracks up and develops a leak. Quickest thing to do is test the solenoid valve itself. I'll make a note and try to get a video up by the end of the week showing how to test the valve. (I wouldn't say it's detrimental to the performance of the motor. However, if you have emission testing in your state the vehicle won't pass with this code.)
Jerome Marquez Just uploaded two videos regarding code p0443. The solenoid valve and the control valve. Just search under my page. Does your son own the four or six cylinder model?
Hey CarsNToys, awesome video, but I'm worried I have a slightly different problem. I have a 2001 Infiniti I30(Nissan Maxima rebrand) and I'm getting two codes: P0450 and P1444. Is P1444 the same fix as it is for P1445? P1444 is supposedly Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve, but that seems like the same thing as P1445. Also, do you think having a faulty fuel cap could set either of these codes off? When I have time I'll follow the directed steps in this video regardless and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks man.
+Sirslicey Your trouble code is for a different component. However, there are other components that could trip code p1444. One is the Pressure Sensor. I have a video for this sensor that was does on a Maxima - ruclips.net/video/263bj1gVKsU/видео.html Also check the EVAP Canister. If it's saturated with water you can get code p1444 - ruclips.net/video/0hdY29nkXiw/видео.html. Hope it helps.
My car has a p1447, not p1445 but I get 28.5 Ohms at each pin combination, except 2-3, which is 17.5 Ohms. Could that contribute to my P1447 (supposedly EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring but a "jackpot" code)? I have replaced carbon canister and the valve that's attached to it, and this out-of-spec valve is my 2nd. Mechanic has blown out all carbon multiple times. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hey CarsNToys I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima as well, and received the P1445 code recently. About 2 weeks ago, I had the rear vapor canister purge valve replaced. The mechanic cleaned out the lines a bit cause he said it was dirty. Could it be that the lines are clogged or dirty again and needs to be cleaned some more?
mo bon P1440 is for a small leak. I had a similar code a few years back. It's quite lengthy to diagnose without a smoke machine. I'll try to get a video up shortly.
I have a Maxima 04 with the code p0442 (EVAP valve). The Check Engine is on and there's a smell of gasoline. So what I did was: I took apart the valve and cleaned it and also checked using two cables with the battery to see if it open/closes correctly. What I noticed was that it starts to open and close like crazy. Is this because a) that's not how's to be checked b) the valve is crap c) none of the above
Thanks, I have a huge problem in my 2004 Mustang, 3.8 litre! After I replaced bigger fuelpump, 255 lph, and bigger throttlebody, 70 mm, my idle has been sky high, like 2200 for awhile, then comes down to 1100-1200???, very difficult to drive!!! And bad gasmileage, of course. I know there is a big vacuumleak somewhere, because AC blowing to face changed automatically to windshield, not touching anything???, I was told that means I have a vacuumleak somewhere??? I just can't find it???Check Engine Light has been coming on, even before I did change fuelpump, saying there is large vacuum leak, and "Check you fuel cap", I changed that long time ago, no help??
I also already changed EGR valve, TPS, IAC sensor, took out canister sensor/ valve yesterday, tested that, blowing thru fine, and when add 12 V, it did close, and all hose connections were tight, checked around fuel tank, all seems fine?? Took out purge valve today from front, inside right fender, all connections seem fine, tried to test valve???, could be faulty??, could not really tell, harness was getting 12 V power?? Also sprayed brake cleaner all over under hood, even brake booster, no leaks??? Where the hell is my problem/ leak??? Do I have to do smoke test next?? Thanks
My codes are: P0507= idle air control RPM higher than expected, well, I sure know that already ;o), and P0405 = exhaust gas recirculationsensor, a circuit low?? Whatever that means??? Please, help meeeeee, losing my mind here..........
I have a question so I got the same code on my qx4 but notice the cut valve next to the purge does suck any air so it is not allowing the cut valve to open up can that be why I have a p1445
My evap system has been giving me problems the last days with a fuel smell, no CEL so I checked every evap hose for leaks and they are fine, the leak is from the canister vent :/ I already checked purge valve and it's ok. Might the problem be with the canister itself?
+Roberto Búrbano Possibly. Another sign for a bad canister is when you fill up the gas tank the gas pump nozzle will stop flowing continuously. You have to keep clicking the lever to fill the tank with gas.
I have a 2008 Honda civic LX , and I have a check engine with the code P0497 Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow, the first thing was I changed a new factory fuel cap, then did a reset and day and half the fight came back, then I went and changed the purge valve did a reset same thing the check engine light came back on with that code what us recommended to do next and if you have have any idea what the problem might be much appreciated.
why does my 95 maxima charcoal box area look so different, it doesn't 4 hoses coming out of the white circle thing, only 2, and no valve thing with a connector, and there is a broken hose that looks asif it leads to nowhere, and there isnt a pressure sensor? is this supposed to be like this, it kinda looks like it is, just making sure
Great videos, CNTs. I have a question about my 97 Mystique. Sometimes I notice a gas smell coming from the car. I can't smell it when I have the windows rolled up and the fresh air vent open. I can't smell it when I do a walk-around with the car idling. I only smell it when I'm driving with the window down, and then it's only sometimes...not all the time. It's coming from the engine bay, no doubt. I think it's the EVAP control valve under the hood, as I have looked and looked for fuel leaks and can't find any. Plus...a leak would cause a gas smell all the time, yet I smell it only some of the time. This started only recently. The check engine light is not flashing, and the car runs great at all speeds. Is the EVAP valve at fault? Could something else under the hood be sometimes causing fuel fumes at speed with the window down?
Systorable I would tend to not think evap in this case, that is why the evap system so carefully measures for leaks. If it was evap it would be after the purge or vent valves and not before otherwise a leak would be detected and give you a check engine light. I'd carefully check your fuel lines as well, especially after the fuel pump as this line is pressurized and I think most cars don't measure fuel flow carefully enough to detect a small leak at this point.
Andy Plater, you are right. The odor was coming from a seep leak at the feed tube coming out of the pump. The fuel pressure can vary from 32 all the way up to 41. My hose is rated at 40 psi, so it's barely good enough. When the pump pressure got up to around 40, it was seeping out. I didn't smell it in the cabin then because the rubber boot covers the hole over the pump. But when I put the window down, I could smell it. That's because the air gets into the car when the window's down at speed and it whooshes around the back seat and the pump area. But know that I just today fixed it and even got a hack repair kit with fuel line clamps, fuel line, and brass connectors to bridge pieces of rubber fuel hose. It hasn't started leaking at the filter yet, but I imagine it will. I have the clamps ready when that happens.
I have a 2008 pontiac solstice gxp its only pulling like 3-4 pounds of boost. its supposed to pull around 17-20. now there's re are times when the car works the way its supposed to and gets somewhat up there but I've noticed its ONLY right after I fill the gas tank. some suggested that its a evap solenoid do you think it might be the problem?
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
Nice video, quick question.. on the purge valve itself.. doing the ohm test, if I get a reading of 2 ohms on test 2 and 1 and a reading of 30 ohms on the rest of the test does that mean the purge valve is bad? I couldn't do the vacuum sensor test at the rear, but I am getting code P1445. I am also getting O2 sensor code, but I test the O2 sensor and its good.. Basically, what I want to know is.. do I need to do the other other test at the rear of the car to confirm everything or can I just change out the purge volume valve?
CarsNToys its a 1996 Nissan maxima.. I actually changed it out and problem solved the O2 sensor code went away too. Thanks man your video was very helpful in testing
I read my G35 Infiniti 2007 Coupe mechanics manual..on pressure sensor test...it reads "increase in pressure....increase in voltage"...could it be wrong..it contradicts this video...of increase pressure, lower voltage...." Could it be different?
Got a P0456 on 2004 Cayenne S this am. I have a software (DURAMETRIC) for Porsche only that I use to check and clear errors and it says exactly word for word letter for letter: "Evaporative Emission System Leak (very small leak) - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light. " Im already checking and Cayenne's forums but I figure emission systems are pretty much the same in every car. Coincidentally, right after the engine light came on I went to fill up the tank and the handle kept popping (as if it was full) which had never done before. Not sure if is related to the emission system as a sort of back pressure sensor somewhere. What does it sound like to you? Tks!
Gerard Fabian Alvarez You're correct. The gas handle continually popping is common when a hose in the EVAP system is clogged or you may have a bad charcoal canister. Regarding the small leak, professional mechanics use a smoke machine to find the leak. You can also inspect every square inch of the EVAP hoses but it's tedious.
CarsNToys When I accelerate I hear a noise from what I believe to be the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve. When I take the hoses off there are charcoal pellets inside. After taking apart the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve, It is packed with the pellets. Why Is this? I have taken the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve off twice since this year to empty the pellets out. The acceleration noise goes away after cleaning it out. How can I prevent the charcoal from getting into the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve?
I have a 2000 Nissan Altima with an EVAP leak. The code was p01441 and then a code saying my canister vent valve solenoid is stuck open. Would my canister vent valve being stuck open cause my car to idle low and shut off?
Hey.... Didn't realize you made this video. Jus sent you a message regarding the EVAP canister purge volume control valve. Also, last week I finally received my service manual for this vehicle, been reading it like a bilbe. Did all the test that you also performed. In front of the EVAP canister purge volume control valve their is the EVAP canister control valve. WheW! Do you know if this valve contains charcoal? The hose an the valve inside where filled with charcoal.
CarsNToys Okay, Thanks. I didn't think they did. Do you think the charcoal can drawn through the lines into the valves? Going to blow out the lines an replace the vapor canister an vent control valve.
I don’t have a voltage meter but I’ve checked the lines, replaced the purge volume control valve, purge canister, pressure sensor and gas cap and I still keep getting the P1445 code...
1995 Nissan Hardbody, my Evap pressure sensor makes a clatter noise when I turn the ignition switch, truck starts and runs fine, but I've recently noticed it lags in power when I attempt to pass up other vehicles. could it be ready for replacement?
CarsNToys I've replaced all mentioned, but the evap pressure sensor still makes the clicking noise, it only happens when i turn the ignition, engine starts fine and runs good, just can't figure out why it makes the clicking noise, anyone else having the same issue?
CarsNToys thanks. I have combed that website and can't find a thing on what is covered vs what isn't. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic that popped this error code and I had to have the sensors replaced due to leaks. It wasn't a cheap repair for something that happens to a lot of vehicles (per my internet searching). I was hoping these were covered and I had something to go to the dealer with since I had to come out of pocket for the repair :(
Hello CarsNToys I been battling code P1447 on my Nissan 98 240sx so far I changed my carbon canister and the canister valve also changed the little black valve called purge valve up on the engine bay do I need to clean the line that runs down and below to the canister and do I also clean the other valves that are in between, Nissan dealer quoted me $2,400.00 and man I can't afford that kinda cheese I'm currently off work with a busted back but can do small work on my car like the one you showed on this video so any type of help and instructions are appreciated
+The Noid $2400? That's ridiculous. Unfortunately, p1447 can me a number of things. It could be a blocked rubber hose. Try replacing the evap hosing and it may correct the problem. A mechanic would try using a smoke machine to find any leaks. Scotty Kilmer has a video finding small leaks using a cigar. Do a search on his page and maybe you can find the leak. If you continue to run into trouble shoot me an email. Good luck.
CarsNToys yupp done all you mentioned unfortunately it was the only one valve that everyone hates replacing "the canister purge volume control valve" the one that sits in between the manifold what a shit job that is but I managed to remove it without removing the whole upper manifold, I also replaced all valves in the purge system now I just gotta drive till all monitors complete
I have the code P2422 on my Acura TL 3g. Would replacing the canister control valve fix the issue? I paid a mechanic to clean it out but it still comes back every 2 weeks. (1200km)
rome seveneightsixnine Yeah your vehicle doesn't have a pressure sensor on the rear frame. 33 ohms sounds fine to me. Why are you testing if you don't have a trouble code?
CarsNToys well, she stalls just whenever. But when I take hose off of the short side you look into to that lil plastic ck valve next to it the car runs better. My neighbor has a 97 with same exact issues. He bought everything under the sun. He showed me you vid, I have no charcoal in the line either. All in all, it runs poorly unless you drive it like a better and stalls. The last thing my neighbor bought was an o2 sensor and claims its fine now. Idk.
CarsNToys UPDATE: my col control Sol is not opening and closing with the key. So I tried it on my buddies car and it worked fine. I also checked the plug and it read 11.64V the wires all look OK and tight and no blown fuse. Whacha think?
+Carlos Garza No. Codes above p1000 are manufacturer specific. Also, a 2003 BMW evap purge solenoid is a completely different design than this one that Nissan used in the mid to late 90's.
What a awesome and instructional video. Unfortunately, to bad this test it was not performed in a 2007 Mazda CX-7 with code P2170. Even though I suspect that is a bad Purge Solenoid Valve. Thank you...
When working in the vic; of the canister, and you call for a vacuum pump, I just stuck a flexible tube on the end of the sensor and sucked away. Voltage dropped, so I just assume the system was working as advertised. Just a field expedient, useful when necessary!
Hi i have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4 L V6 and the trouble that i am having is when i am on the highway driving at 120 kms and just when i start to slow down i gets this weird smell of rotting eggs, it isn't my exhaust system i just had it all installed a couple of months ago it is Flow-Master Catalytic Converter and a Flow-Master Muffler, and today i still gets that same smell of rotten eggs coming in threw my Interior Vents a mechanic told me that it could be my Oxygen Sensor but i don't think that is the problem cause there is know lights in the dash or check engine light, Note i don't always get this smell when driving 50 or 80 km Please help thanks.
hi the Cat is brand new i replaced the small piece of hose that is shaped like the letter (C) it was connected to the Valve Cover PVC plastic hose it is back by the EGR Valve went on the highway did 100 to 125 kms and slowed down and the smell was gone so far still no smell. thanks.
Hi i Found and fixed the problem that was causing the rotten Egg smell it was a simple piece of a Hose that is connected to the PVC valve tube up near the EGR it was Collapsed due to old hose i replaced it with new one and the smell is now gone away.
This video is a great instructional video. Not just a parts replacement video, but a solid teaching video. Why would anyone give this a thumbs down? Good work sir!
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
because mechanics don't like to do this lol they just replace the parts and save time. Welcome to the USA
@@Sales-fm9mz
Totally agreed. Talk about teaching a man to fish. I’ve now tested so many valves for various cars and can attribute that to this video. Saved a ton Of $ and frustration.
Great video - clear and methodical. This is a generous person who holds compassion for the learner. Superb!
thank you for taking the time to show all of the proper connetions to touch the leads to really helped me troubleshoot.
+louis jewell Glad to help
Mr. CarsNToys: Absoloutely the best clearest explanation out of several dozens I've heard so far.... Totally agree, IMO you can ground the multimeter that way, thats the best ground, that you can find on a vehicle (using a negative grounded electrical system) IS THE BATTERY GROUND. The entire vehicle relys on that (battery negative terminal to frame) or no#2 the engine connection from starting the engine to reliably connecting everything that needs an positive electrical charge need a ground to complete the circuit.. Naturally you don't want sparks near where battery gasses are vented.. Any one contemplating these tests needs to learn the best practices re auto electrical diagnostics.
There are enough authorative sources freely available today..
I gotta say you are very clear and thorough in descriptions and diagrams...i commend you for that...
Nothing irritates more than people leaving out key steps and information....thanks for your efforts ..im sure i am going to solve my issues with my Evap problems going by your guide...cant thank you enough...
+Chuck Itall Thank you, Chuck. I appreciate it and I'm glad to help! Cheers
Wow! Amazed at how thorough and well explained this video was.
Thank you. It's an important component and didn't want to leave anything out. Cheers.
Thank you for being simpathetic to those us who need the level of care you provide to walk through and teach your viewers how it is done. The confidence i have gained because of your knowledge and teaching method is huge. Prosperity and blessings to you and yours.
Glad to help
I enjoyed this video and how clear he was especially on the connections. Walk away knowing more than before I saw this.
+1stClassKids Glad to help!
This is one of the best instructed video I've ever. Seen.....Thank you
Excellent video - one of the best ever I have seen. working on a 97 nissan pickup with a p1447
You are absolutely amazing and a total life saver. This is the type of instruction video we all need. 100,000% the best at what you do! Thank you sir!
I also have the P1445 code on my 1997 Nissan Pathfinder. Makes a loud rattling sound when accelerating and a lot of steam comes from the engine bay when I come to a stop. Still runs for short distances at a time though before stalling.
Awesome video!!! Thank you for your knowledge, my valve is stuck open, and it's full of charcoal
Happy to help.
Dude you are the Bob Ross of Auto Mechanics.
Good teacher-u- made it very easy to follow-l got it- keep up the good work-thank-you
My 1996 Nissan Maxima is the same generation as this 1997 Maxima in the video. So I have already spent more than I care to admit in trying to rid my car of the P1445 DTC. The service I employed did rid the P0325 Anti-knock and P1400 EGR selenoid, DTCs, however, not the P1445 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve DTC. So in using your video, I find infinite resistance between 4 and 5 terminals on the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve connector (PN 149303M201) and not the 30 ohms cited in the video (checked a couple of times). Now my question is could that infinite resistance be due to a malfunctioning EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (PN 1493354U0A) or is it time to replace the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve connector (PN 149303M201; more expensive than PN 1493354U0A)? My wallet is hurting for a car totaled by insurance for hail damage. Is the vacuum device you show for testing the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve a hand induced vacuum, and where can I purchase the tool, Harbor Freight? Lastly, where does the EVAP Canister Purge Control Selenoid Valve (PN 1493554U1A) fit into the picture, and are there tests to rule its malfunctioning out of the picture?
Absolutely fantastic video! You've got presentation skills!
I've got a 1998 Maxima with a code P1493. My limited research indicates this is for the EVAP purge solenoid. This video will be a big help in troubleshooting!
Could an EVAP issue cause hard starting? My car typically takes three or four tries before she wants to start.
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Damien Gregory Glad to help, Damien. P1493 is a trouble code for the EVAP canister purge control valve / solenoid valve. It could be a number of things; including EVAP canister purge control valve, EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve, EVAP pressure sensore, EVAP canister vent control valve, clogged vacuum hoses/disconnected or EVAP canister saturated with water. I have a bunch of EVAP videos at carsntoys.net - Click on auto repair and then the EVAP section. That should help you check the system. Cheers.
E
Tnks a lot bro my problem was a tank pressure sensor helps me a lot
I know this is old but I just went thru this with my 97 hardbody truck which has a similar set up. When the charcoal canister fails, powdery bits can get inside this and cause it to fail to the point it has to be replaced. On my old one, everything seemed to be good following the service manual checklist but you want to make sure that the plunger inside is not just moving but that it's actually sealing otherwise you may bet a evap small leak which can refer to all sorts of things. You won't necessarily a 1445 error. I replaced this but now I'm not getting any vacuum to the purge valve and I'm not sure why. It's the purge control valve that opens the purge line to release the vapors to the control volume solenoid.
Excellent video, man. Very helpful and easy to follow.
+Titan Suprruda Thank you
excellent. so grateful for your effort. I actually do not have this problem I just really enjoy watching great instructional videos. if you have a moment, is there a rule for when to test volt and when to test ohm. Thanks so much.
+julian grey Thank you. You'll have to perform voltage and ohms to pinpoint where the problem is.
Very well detailed, I've learnt alot from this, thankyou
Great video. I'm having a hard time finding the part. Do you have a part number?
very detailed! you should teach automotive classes. Great video man.
Thank you, Rafal. Appreciate it.
Best instructional video I've seen! Your clones should be planted in the field of medicine instead of mechanics...failed smog checks are nothing compared to the cost of Doctors who lack your skills and can't communicate.
whereisjeffery haha Thanks. I appreciate it. And I agree with you. Physican's today are no where as competent as they were in the past. Cheers
Great video! Excellent explanations and included images. Thanks so much!
Alison Lee Welcome
Be careful when probing the front contacts on the connector. You don’t want to push it in to far and push open the connector terminals. Great vid
Thank you.
Did everything as said in the video. the valve and the sensor work well electrically speaking . Does the valve need to hold Vacuum? The valve its self moves and functions normally but im not sure if it holds vaccum or if its even supposed too?
I have a 1996 Maxima ( 156 000 miles ) and it moves very slow if at all in reverse gear when engine is cold. Will not reverse at all when engine is hot. Everything else works great since I maintain it well. Should I have the transmission rebuilt ( $1500 ) and keep the car or just get another car ?
I have a 98 Maxima, throwing code P1447. I've checked all valves, replaced the charcoal canister, check for vacuum leaks with a pump and soapy water test. I've also used cleaner in multiple parts and hoses to clean out any possible carbon deposits built up in the system.
Any ideas would be helpful. thank you.
would a faulty one cause your car to die while drivingk or idling and dying after a few minutes), then turning back on after a few minutes? Great video btw!
Triple like to such quality video
Very .very good .. Teacher
Thank you! 😃
I'll try to make this short: Can this cause my 96 maxima to die after exiting highway on hot temp days? After I exit from hours on highway it dies. If I open gas cap major vapor is released. Runs fine after cool down and runs fine in the city. The lines are full of charcoal up to engine bay. I always had the code but was told it's just emissions crap so I didn't worry about it. Engine getting vapor causing it do die? Has charcoal been sucked into intake? Do I gotta replace all of the parts? Ty for video
Thanks for the video and hopefully I will be getting closer to isolating the problem. Everything checked out except for the male side of the EVAP purge volume control valve. All the terminals read ~30 ohms except for terminals 2,1. all they read is 1. So you think I should replace the whole unit or keep troubleshooting?
RIPTIDER69 Sounds like the control valve needs replacement. What kind of vehicle?
CarsNToys It's a 96 manual non abs maxima SE with Cattman headers, greddy catback, stock ECM, Intake. Hope that helps. Let me know because my car's registration is dead, so my tags are dead, and am running on borrowed time.
CarsNToys I rechecked the volume valve and the 6th terminal seems to be faulty. When I test terminals 5,4 I get ~30ohms but when I test terminals 5,6 all I get is a 1. Wish this could be fixed somehow besides going to the dealer for $220. Plus going to junkyards 45 mins away to pull the part for them to tell me it will be 175 -+ does not appeal to me either.
CarsNToys I went to the junkyard and pulled the only control valve they had and tested it. Can you believe that on the one I pulled had a faulty 3rd terminal? I'm just assuming its faulty because when I test 2,3 it reads 1. Just like my faulty control valve that read also a 1 on terminal test 5,6.
Does this mean those terminals are faulty?
RIPTIDER69 Your '96 Maxima should read 30 ohms on connectors 2&1, 2&3, 5&4 and 5&6. When you did the ohms test did you disconnect the harness connector going to the control valve?
What are the symptoms if this part is no longer functioning properly ..??
Excellent Video!! Thanks
FANTASTIC video and presentation. awesome.
Thank you
i have a ranger 97. just replaced plugs and wire with a full tune up 2 months ago. i am getting a misfire on cylinders 1 and 5 along with a purge flow sensor circuit high input. do these have any relation to eachother that can narrow down the issue? any input is def appreciated, thank you sir! :)
Random question, do you know where I can get a new one? O' Riley's wants like $500. Mine is a 1998 Nissan maxima
So quick question is there 2 of those valve and I don’t know which one it is I have a 2003 g35. I don’t know nothing about cars
If is someone wants to upload this kind of videos here on youtube...PLEASE FALLOW THIS AWESON PRESENTATION FROM THIS GUY AND LEARN HOW TO DO A GOOD VIDEO...DO NOT MAKE US WASTE OUR TIME WATCHING CRAPPY VIDEOS JUST MADE TO SHOW YOURSELF ON HERE....SUPER GOOD VIDEO THIS ONE.
+jose Silva Thank you
If you don't like it don't watch it. Excuse me, I should translate what I just wrote into your own language:
IF YOU DON"T LIKEEES THE VIDEO THEN DON"TS WATCH ITS
jose Silva o oo oo
Fuck off asswipe. This bozo doesnt even tell us what car its for in the title. Wasted my fucking time.
puppetmasterblaster Read the description below on the bottom "bozo" it clearly says 97 Nissan Maxima.
Hi, Great Vid. My son has a 2006 Nissan Altima and the check engine light is on continuously. A scan was done and a code P0443 was generated. Can this be a defective EVAP Canister Purge Volume Solenoid Valve? From your experience, if it is, is this 'issue' detrimental to the overall performance of the engine? What would your recommendation(s) be? Thanks in advance.
Jerome Marquez Very often, the rubber hosing connecting the EVAP system cracks up and develops a leak. Quickest thing to do is test the solenoid valve itself. I'll make a note and try to get a video up by the end of the week showing how to test the valve. (I wouldn't say it's detrimental to the performance of the motor. However, if you have emission testing in your state the vehicle won't pass with this code.)
CarsNToys Thanks for the response. I would look out for the video. Much appreciated.
Jerome Marquez Just uploaded two videos regarding code p0443. The solenoid valve and the control valve. Just search under my page. Does your son own the four or six cylinder model?
CarsNToys Thank you. He has the 4 cylinder.
Hey CarsNToys, awesome video, but I'm worried I have a slightly different problem. I have a 2001 Infiniti I30(Nissan Maxima rebrand) and I'm getting two codes: P0450 and P1444. Is P1444 the same fix as it is for P1445? P1444 is supposedly Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve, but that seems like the same thing as P1445. Also, do you think having a faulty fuel cap could set either of these codes off? When I have time I'll follow the directed steps in this video regardless and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks man.
+Sirslicey Your trouble code is for a different component. However, there are other components that could trip code p1444. One is the Pressure Sensor. I have a video for this sensor that was does on a Maxima - ruclips.net/video/263bj1gVKsU/видео.html Also check the EVAP Canister. If it's saturated with water you can get code p1444 - ruclips.net/video/0hdY29nkXiw/видео.html. Hope it helps.
My car has a p1447, not p1445 but I get 28.5 Ohms at each pin combination, except 2-3, which is 17.5 Ohms. Could that contribute to my P1447 (supposedly EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring but a "jackpot" code)? I have replaced carbon canister and the valve that's attached to it, and this out-of-spec valve is my 2nd. Mechanic has blown out all carbon multiple times. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
How often do you replace the evap charcoal filter?
Hey CarsNToys I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima as well, and received the P1445 code recently. About 2 weeks ago, I had the rear vapor canister purge valve replaced. The mechanic cleaned out the lines a bit cause he said it was dirty. Could it be that the lines are clogged or dirty again and needs to be cleaned some more?
Clogged evap hoses can cause code p1445. What I've done in the past is replace all the rubber hosing. It's inexpensive and easy to do.
Make sure to note that care should be taken to avoid placing the dvom leads directly into the harness connector pins.
Great video and step by step instructions. Can yo please do one for a P1440 code. I have a 2000 Maxima
mo bon P1440 is for a small leak. I had a similar code a few years back. It's quite lengthy to diagnose without a smoke machine. I'll try to get a video up shortly.
ok thank you.
dude ...excellent.....i know u heard it but i had to say it...
Aziegbemhin Jacobpe.great video right there dude.no doubt about that certainly. you should be in the class teaching automotive.
Thank you for this excellent series. Do you have any experience with code P1441? Seems to be related to the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve.
I need a video for purge valve canister for a 2011 Jeep Liberty Sport, 4-wheel drive
Excellent Job 👍
Whats the name of small white plastic piece just in front of the evap canister ?
Tested my purge valve and got 31ohms and got 0 volt mean no power to connecter where should i can check the circuit next? plz reply.
I have a Maxima 04 with the code p0442 (EVAP valve). The Check Engine is on and there's a smell of gasoline.
So what I did was: I took apart the valve and cleaned it and also checked using two cables with the battery to see if it open/closes correctly. What I noticed was that it starts to open and close like crazy. Is this because a) that's not how's to be checked b) the valve is crap c) none of the above
Good job, thanks ! This would apply, similar for Ford Mustang, 2004 also?? Of course, sensors might/ will look different!! Am I right?? Thanks
Yeah, general idea is there. The parts on your Mustang will look different but same function.
Thanks, I have a huge problem in my 2004 Mustang, 3.8 litre! After I replaced bigger fuelpump, 255 lph, and bigger throttlebody, 70 mm, my idle has been sky high, like 2200 for awhile, then comes down to 1100-1200???, very difficult to drive!!! And bad gasmileage, of course. I know there is a big vacuumleak somewhere, because AC blowing to face changed automatically to windshield, not touching anything???, I was told that means I have a vacuumleak somewhere??? I just can't find it???Check Engine Light has been coming on, even before I did change fuelpump, saying there is large vacuum leak, and "Check you fuel cap", I changed that long time ago, no help??
I also already changed EGR valve, TPS, IAC sensor, took out canister sensor/ valve yesterday, tested that, blowing thru fine, and when add 12 V, it did close, and all hose connections were tight, checked around fuel tank, all seems fine?? Took out purge valve today from front, inside right fender, all connections seem fine, tried to test valve???, could be faulty??, could not really tell, harness was getting 12 V power?? Also sprayed brake cleaner all over under hood, even brake booster, no leaks??? Where the hell is my problem/ leak??? Do I have to do smoke test next?? Thanks
My codes are: P0507= idle air control RPM higher than expected, well, I sure know that already ;o), and P0405 = exhaust gas recirculationsensor, a circuit low?? Whatever that means??? Please, help meeeeee, losing my mind here..........
I have a question so I got the same code on my qx4 but notice the cut valve next to the purge does suck any air so it is not allowing the cut valve to open up can that be why I have a p1445
My evap system has been giving me problems the last days with a fuel smell, no CEL so I checked every evap hose for leaks and they are fine, the leak is from the canister vent :/ I already checked purge valve and it's ok. Might the problem be with the canister itself?
+Roberto Búrbano Possibly. Another sign for a bad canister is when you fill up the gas tank the gas pump nozzle will stop flowing continuously. You have to keep clicking the lever to fill the tank with gas.
Where is the best place to buy the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. I can not find one that looks just like the stock one
I have a 2008 Honda civic LX , and I have a check engine with the code P0497 Evaporative Emission System Low Purge Flow, the first thing was I changed a new factory fuel cap, then did a reset and day and half the fight came back, then I went and changed the purge valve did a reset same thing the check engine light came back on with that code what us recommended to do next and if you have have any idea what the problem might be much appreciated.
+Galaxy Way Let me see what I can dig up for your specific vehicle and I'll f/u shortly.
+CarsNToys OK I appreciate it thanks for your time.
why does my 95 maxima charcoal box area look so different, it doesn't 4 hoses coming out of the white circle thing, only 2, and no valve thing with a connector, and there is a broken hose that looks asif it leads to nowhere, and there isnt a pressure sensor? is this supposed to be like this, it kinda looks like it is, just making sure
Great videos, CNTs. I have a question about my 97 Mystique. Sometimes I notice a gas smell coming from the car. I can't smell it when I have the windows rolled up and the fresh air vent open. I can't smell it when I do a walk-around with the car idling. I only smell it when I'm driving with the window down, and then it's only sometimes...not all the time. It's coming from the engine bay, no doubt. I think it's the EVAP control valve under the hood, as I have looked and looked for fuel leaks and can't find any. Plus...a leak would cause a gas smell all the time, yet I smell it only some of the time. This started only recently. The check engine light is not flashing, and the car runs great at all speeds. Is the EVAP valve at fault? Could something else under the hood be sometimes causing fuel fumes at speed with the window down?
Systorable I'd start by inspecting the EVAP system as well.
Thanks, man. What do you think it is? Raw liquid gasoline in the EVAP system somewhere? Could the cold start valve be causing this somehow?
Systorable I would tend to not think evap in this case, that is why the evap system so carefully measures for leaks. If it was evap it would be after the purge or vent valves and not before otherwise a leak would be detected and give you a check engine light. I'd carefully check your fuel lines as well, especially after the fuel pump as this line is pressurized and I think most cars don't measure fuel flow carefully enough to detect a small leak at this point.
Andy Plater, you are right. The odor was coming from a seep leak at the feed tube coming out of the pump. The fuel pressure can vary from 32 all the way up to 41. My hose is rated at 40 psi, so it's barely good enough. When the pump pressure got up to around 40, it was seeping out. I didn't smell it in the cabin then because the rubber boot covers the hole over the pump. But when I put the window down, I could smell it. That's because the air gets into the car when the window's down at speed and it whooshes around the back seat and the pump area. But know that I just today fixed it and even got a hack repair kit with fuel line clamps, fuel line, and brass connectors to bridge pieces of rubber fuel hose. It hasn't started leaking at the filter yet, but I imagine it will. I have the clamps ready when that happens.
Systorable Good to know it's sorted!
when you say tape the ends. are you referring to the hoses end or the valve ends. i have a 2000 expedition with the p1450 code
Chris b the rubber hoses
I have a 2008 pontiac solstice gxp its only pulling like 3-4 pounds of boost. its supposed to pull around 17-20. now there's re are times when the car works the way its supposed to and gets somewhat up there but I've noticed its ONLY right after I fill the gas tank. some suggested that its a evap solenoid do you think it might be the problem?
Any trouble codes?
none besides the mass air flow sensor was dirty cleaned that but till nothing
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
excuse me sir i have the code p1445 coming out on my 96 maxima.. my mechanic replaced 2 coils and all my spark plugs, he removed the evap sensor hoses and thats when the code popped up... any ideas
Great video my man. Awesome, keep it up.
Thanks
Nice video, quick question.. on the purge valve itself.. doing the ohm test, if I get a reading of 2 ohms on test 2 and 1 and a reading of 30 ohms on the rest of the test does that mean the purge valve is bad? I couldn't do the vacuum sensor test at the rear, but I am getting code P1445. I am also getting O2 sensor code, but I test the O2 sensor and its good.. Basically, what I want to know is.. do I need to do the other other test at the rear of the car to confirm everything or can I just change out the purge volume valve?
DGK Chances are the purge valve is no longer good. What kind of vehicle?
CarsNToys its a 1996 Nissan maxima.. I actually changed it out and problem solved the O2 sensor code went away too. Thanks man your video was very helpful in testing
DGK Good stuff man. Glad to help!
I read my G35 Infiniti 2007 Coupe mechanics manual..on pressure sensor test...it reads "increase in pressure....increase in voltage"...could it be wrong..it contradicts this video...of increase pressure, lower voltage...." Could it be different?
Got a P0456 on 2004 Cayenne S this am. I have a software (DURAMETRIC) for Porsche only that I use to check and clear errors and it says exactly word for word letter for letter:
"Evaporative Emission System Leak (very small leak) - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light. "
Im already checking and Cayenne's forums but I figure emission systems are pretty much the same in every car. Coincidentally, right after the engine light came on I went to fill up the tank and the handle kept popping (as if it was full) which had never done before. Not sure if is related to the emission system as a sort of back pressure sensor somewhere. What does it sound like to you? Tks!
Gerard Fabian Alvarez You're correct. The gas handle continually popping is common when a hose in the EVAP system is clogged or you may have a bad charcoal canister. Regarding the small leak, professional mechanics use a smoke machine to find the leak. You can also inspect every square inch of the EVAP hoses but it's tedious.
good video amigo exselente video amigo
CarsNToys When I accelerate I hear a noise from what I believe to be the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve. When I take the hoses off there are charcoal pellets inside. After taking apart the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve, It is packed with the pellets. Why Is this? I have taken the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve off twice since this year to empty the pellets out. The acceleration noise goes away after cleaning it out. How can I prevent the charcoal from getting into the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve?
I have a 2000 Nissan Altima with an EVAP leak. The code was p01441 and then a code saying my canister vent valve solenoid is stuck open. Would my canister vent valve being stuck open cause my car to idle low and shut off?
It's possible, however, it's typically another issues such as the idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor, fuel pump, etc.
Where is the best place i can find one of these for my 1996 Nissan 24osx Please help lol. I need a EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
Hey....
Didn't realize you made this video.
Jus sent you a message regarding the EVAP canister purge volume control valve.
Also, last week I finally received my service manual for this vehicle, been reading it like a bilbe. Did all the test that you also performed. In front of the EVAP canister purge volume control valve their is the EVAP canister control valve.
WheW!
Do you know if this valve contains charcoal?
The hose an the valve inside where filled with charcoal.
Sorry, but i forgot to mention that the ohms reading i received from the EVAP canister volume control valve is high, 41.5 ohms.
what would this mean?
Hey Rod. There's a charcoal canister located behind the rear driver's side wheel. The valves don't have charcoal.
CarsNToys Okay, Thanks.
I didn't think they did. Do you think the charcoal can drawn through the lines into the valves?
Going to blow out the lines an replace the vapor canister an vent control valve.
So for the ohms I got around 14-15 does that mean it’s bad
Hi.my jaguar xtye, keep shut down the gas pump I do not have a check engine light..
I don’t have a voltage meter but I’ve checked the lines, replaced the purge volume control valve, purge canister, pressure sensor and gas cap and I still keep getting the P1445 code...
1995 Nissan Hardbody, my Evap pressure sensor makes a clatter noise when I turn the ignition switch, truck starts and runs fine, but I've recently noticed it lags in power when I attempt to pass up other vehicles. could it be ready for replacement?
That could be a number of things. Check the throttle position sensor. If that's okay, check the plugs/ignition system and fuel system.
CarsNToys I've replaced all mentioned, but the evap pressure sensor still makes the clicking noise, it only happens when i turn the ignition, engine starts fine and runs good, just can't figure out why it makes the clicking noise, anyone else having the same issue?
Did you find a fix to this issue? I have the same problem with my 1996 Nissan pickup. I have the p1447 and p1445 code
Why is the 5 wires..does this a a position sensor integrated in it
nice video could you do one taking off the egr valve 96 maxima
May come soon. Recently came across a p0400 code.
Are these parts covered by the clean air act of 1990 for 8yr/80,000 miles?
Scott Clark I believe the EPA mandates that rule for major components; i.e. catalytic converter. Search on EPA's website to confirm.
CarsNToys thanks. I have combed that website and can't find a thing on what is covered vs what isn't. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic that popped this error code and I had to have the sensors replaced due to leaks. It wasn't a cheap repair for something that happens to a lot of vehicles (per my internet searching). I was hoping these were covered and I had something to go to the dealer with since I had to come out of pocket for the repair :(
And code p0440 what is of problem sir ? Any help
Hello CarsNToys I been battling code P1447 on my Nissan 98 240sx so far I changed my carbon canister and the canister valve also changed the little black valve called purge valve up on the engine bay do I need to clean the line that runs down and below to the canister and do I also clean the other valves that are in between, Nissan dealer quoted me $2,400.00 and man I can't afford that kinda cheese I'm currently off work with a busted back but can do small work on my car like the one you showed on this video so any type of help and instructions are appreciated
+The Noid $2400? That's ridiculous. Unfortunately, p1447 can me a number of things. It could be a blocked rubber hose. Try replacing the evap hosing and it may correct the problem. A mechanic would try using a smoke machine to find any leaks. Scotty Kilmer has a video finding small leaks using a cigar. Do a search on his page and maybe you can find the leak. If you continue to run into trouble shoot me an email. Good luck.
CarsNToys yupp done all you mentioned unfortunately it was the only one valve that everyone hates replacing "the canister purge volume control valve" the one that sits in between the manifold what a shit job that is but I managed to remove it without removing the whole upper manifold, I also replaced all valves in the purge system now I just gotta drive till all monitors complete
The Noid
Happy new year, Sir Noid, Did it work? I'm incountering the same 1447 code in my 98 Silvia.
Nice video! Well done,
I have the code P2422 on my Acura TL 3g. Would replacing the canister control valve fix the issue? I paid a mechanic to clean it out but it still comes back every 2 weeks. (1200km)
does it have a pressure valve? id change that first
I washed my evap canister, after 4 weeks of driving, the code never came back
When I do the ohm reading on the volume control Valve should the car be "on" or off ???
Any time your measuring resistance, ohms, you do not want any power present. It will F your metre
I'm getting 33.5 ohms, does that mean its stuck open some? Or is that close enough?
rome seveneightsixnine Performing this on a Nissan Maxima? What year?
95, is that the reason I can't find the sensor in the rear on the frame? no trouble code i might add. :O
rome seveneightsixnine Yeah your vehicle doesn't have a pressure sensor on the rear frame. 33 ohms sounds fine to me. Why are you testing if you don't have a trouble code?
CarsNToys well, she stalls just whenever. But when I take hose off of the short side you look into to that lil plastic ck valve next to it the car runs better. My neighbor has a 97 with same exact issues. He bought everything under the sun. He showed me you vid, I have no charcoal in the line either. All in all, it runs poorly unless you drive it like a better and stalls. The last thing my neighbor bought was an o2 sensor and claims its fine now. Idk.
CarsNToys UPDATE: my col control Sol is not opening and closing with the key. So I tried it on my buddies car and it worked fine. I also checked the plug and it read 11.64V the wires all look OK and tight and no blown fuse. Whacha think?
dude awesome video love it
+Mark Singer Thank you!
Is there a link to busy the proper parts?
You can find good used parts (typically) off ebay. Also Rock Auto. Sometimes Amazon.
Awesome video
I have bmw 2003 can this code also related to canister purge valve? Help!!
+Carlos Garza No. Codes above p1000 are manufacturer specific. Also, a 2003 BMW evap purge solenoid is a completely different design than this one that Nissan used in the mid to late 90's.
excellent
G- Man Thanks man. Appreciate it.
CarsNToys my 2001 Jeep Cherokee scout has 4, 02 sensors. would there be different error code for the up stream and down stream?
Thanks.
G- Man You are correct.
What a awesome and instructional video. Unfortunately, to bad this test it was not performed in a 2007 Mazda CX-7 with code P2170. Even though I suspect that is a bad Purge Solenoid Valve. Thank you...
how is this done on a Nissan Altima 2002?
1996 Lexus ES EVAP system vent control code po446
2007 Kia Spectra Canister Vent Valve Solenoid replacement????? PLEASE?
+CarsNToys 3:40 I only getting 11.2 from the harness. What should I do in this case?
+Julio Salcedo 11.2 is okay
CarsNToys ok.thanks
When working in the vic; of the canister, and you call for a vacuum pump, I just stuck a flexible tube on the end of the sensor and sucked away. Voltage dropped, so I just assume the system was working as advertised. Just a field expedient, useful when necessary!
Hi
i have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4 L V6 and the trouble that i am having is when i am on the highway driving at 120 kms and just when i start to slow down i gets this weird smell of rotting eggs, it isn't my exhaust system i just had it all installed a couple of months ago it is Flow-Master Catalytic Converter and a Flow-Master Muffler, and today i still gets that same smell of rotten eggs coming in threw my Interior Vents a mechanic told me that it could be my Oxygen Sensor but i don't think that is the problem cause there is know lights in the dash or check engine light, Note i don't always get this smell when driving 50 or 80 km
Please help thanks.
+Newfie Led Man That's often due to sulfur in the gasoline that isn't converted into sulfur dioxide. Did you purchase a new or used cat?
hi
the Cat is brand new i replaced the small piece of hose that is shaped like the letter (C) it was connected to the Valve Cover PVC plastic hose it is back by the EGR Valve went on the highway did 100 to 125 kms and slowed down and the smell was gone so far still no smell.
thanks.
Hi
i Found and fixed the problem that was causing the rotten Egg smell it was a simple piece of a Hose that is connected to the PVC valve tube up near the EGR it was Collapsed due to old hose i replaced it with new one and the smell is now gone away.