The Most Remote Villages in West Texas Along the River Road, Beyond Big Bend Ranch State Park
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- The river road (FM 170) goes west of Lajitas, Texas along the Rio Grande. Today we travel along this road through Ruidosa to where the pavement ends (and a little beyond) in the village of Candelaria. Along the way we'll see several old adobe structures. It's so remote that it felt as though I had traveled to a foreign land.
#texas #westtexas #westtx #desert #bigbend #hike #hiking #riogrande #riobravo #village #adobe #presidio #historic #historicalbuildings
My mom was born in Candelaria! She was baptised inside the cute church in 1919. My grandfather would check on grandmother and family there in Candelaria as much as he could while fighting for Pancho Villa.
How cool.Thanks for sharing ..
Viva Pancho Villa.
@@labarca5236 my grandfather, Paul Dieter was in the Pennsylvania National Guard. He was mobilised in 1916 with his and other units to chase Pancho Villa under General Pershing. Pancho Villa was a revolutionary that attacked American towns and killed Americans; that's why attempt were made to capture or kill him. Americans never succeeded. Granddad went on to fight in Europe, survived the war and went back to Pittsburgh, raised a family.
😎wow
@@williamkeith8944 General George Patton, a Lt at the time, was Pershing's right hand man, and Patton killed his first man with his Colt 45 revolver during the hunt for Pancho Villa
I don’t know very much of Texas, but I’ve traveled through West Texas, lingering a bit in Balmorrea, and traveling down 90 to Langtry and on to Piedras Negras. Beautiful country and kind people.
I live about 31 miles from Balmorhea, your right it’s a beautiful area. Don’t be a stranger and come back to our neck of the woods again. Thank you for the compliment!
Pecos Texas
I’m so happy I found this channel! I love Texas and had no idea of these places!! 🥰😍
Last time I was in big bend I went down to the far corner 15ft from the border... A man on the mexico side walks out with only shorts and a hat, no shoes, swims across the border comes up and ask my now wife and I to buy a rock painting to help the kids of this sender block town... That is some of the most unforgiving country side and he had no shoes!!.. his feet were just one big caulis .... I bought a painted rock and gave him all the cash and change I had.. a couple bucks... I grew up in west texas and mis the sky both night and day and the most beautiful sunsets.
That was kind of you. Bless you
Yes, that part of Big Bend has free border crossings. The people on the Mexico side in Boquillas sell trinkets and crafts to support a Christian school. They sell them on the Texas side as well. There is a fellow who calls himself ‘The Happy Mexican’ who takes song requests if you shout at him across the river. He also makes scorpions out of copper wire which
he sells on the honor system.
When I see these old places, I don't think of them being empty. I think of how they used to be and where the people went.
When I see old ruins anywhere I always wonder about the times when they were built and the aspirations of the builders.
I always wonder...."why here". Did the wagon just give out or what? Haha
i do too George
It is so funny how this guy phrase: " He built this to protect his family from the Native American Indian's raide ", making it seem like the White were there before the Native American Indian.
Adobe was almost exclusively built by slavery. It's ridiculously labor intensive.
Oil!
Reminds me of places I've seen in Southern California, Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico. The southwestern deserts are truly beautiful. :) Thanks for sharing!
Couldn't agree more!
And all taken away from Mexico😞
Yes we kicked their heathen asses!!
@@armandoayala446 Yup the strong and smart thrive .
@@armandoayala446 I have Hispanic-Native relatives in Brownsville who live and farm on a narrow strip-farm bordering the Rio Grande. Land they have held title to back to a Spanish land-grant. How do they make it pay? Every generation has many children, and at least one (usually more) of the sons goes into the US military.
They serve, (are sometimes killed or wounded) and send money back home to support the family and in bad times, sometimes the farm, even if it is the women who run it.
Then they retire there to farm the rest of their lives. Not all the extended family live there, of course; it is legally inherited by the eldest son, who is (often, not always) president of the family farm trust, responsible to several dozen family members at any one time.
It works -- all meet there for family barbecues, Christmas and Easter. Other old families in that region operate in similar fashion, they've been there before the USA was founded. The farm can never be divided or sold without the vote of all family share-holder members. It is a good system. I now live in the UK, Though only a distant cousin who doesn't speak Spanish, I am proud to share these ancient roots and history. Though the farm is small and just manages to pay its way, & its taxes, it (along with the family's Catholic faith) functions as the focal point of warm and generous family unity.
I wish I could live out what time I have left somewhere in the Big Bend area with no TV, internet or cell phone. I'd probably be a lot happier & less stressed.
There are a number of houses scattered across the desert near Terlingua that are very basic with solar panels and/or a windmill. They seem to the live a quiet life out there.
@@secretsoftexas6872 Thanks! A friend of my late father owns La Posada Milagro B&B in Terlingua & I've been out there on my motorcycle a few times. I love that area & the vibe that goes with it. I've really enjoyed your videos & have learned from them things I never knew about my own state.
Bruce, no you tube videos to enjoy.
@@joinjen3854 The only way I'd break the addiction.
Not far from here, the Galveston, Harrisburg and San Antonio Railroad completed the transcontinental line of the Texas and New Orleans joining with the Pacific Lines of the Southern Pacific Railroad. Imagine all the workers laboring to complete this railroad in the 1880s. There were many hardships and even fewer towns. Yet, as your video shows, there is magic to the scenery of West Texas.
Yes, it was a railroad that was transcontinental year-round. Other railroad routes were snowbound or possibly so. This far Southern route was seen as a military necessity.
Presidio goes back to 1848, but colonial settlement along the river goes almost 200 years farther back than that. El Paso/Juárez was founded in 1659. (Santa Fe in New Mexico was founded in 1610, ten years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.) And then there’s the pre-Columbian settlement that goes back to 900 or earlier.
Ifn you’re the type that likes to set somewhere and breathe in a sense of history, you can’t do better than West Texas, along the River.
Yes @MarcosElMalo2, and it always feels like you are in MX, doesn’t it? Pretty and lots to see.
My family on my dad side and mom, lived around Ruidosa and Candelaria from the 1860’s to the 1950’s. I was born in Marfa myself, the people left because of the economy.
Estos lugares del. West. Son. Lindos. Texas. Es un Estado. El cual cuenta. Con mucho mas lugares hermosos donde. Recrear. Y tiene hermos lugares en la sierra. God. Bless America
This is a great channel and love the history you provide. Love visiting Texas and you my friend provide some great content.
Thanks for the kind words and for visiting. See you soon.
A few years ago we stayed at an RV park in Alpine and someone told us we needed to go down Pinto Canyon. I asked what kind of road it was and was told it was blacktop out of Marfa, 2810, but it turned into a maintained ranch road for about the last 20 miles before Ruidosa. We stopped on a high area of the blacktop to make a phone call and a Border Patrol rolled up to check us out. We told him we were heading down Pinto Canyon and he looked at our ton 4 wheel drive truck and said, well you should be ok. It's an awesome drive, saw some Javalina and got some great pictures of an old truck cab shot full of holes and wild flowers. But that road was ROUGH, broke the belts in a front tire. Lots of BP agents at that time between Presidio and Lajitas. If you like West Texas it's a great area.
Believe it or not, my girlfriend and I drove the pinto canyon road in a 2004 Lexus earlier this year. It was hairy, but we made it.
@@titussardonicus338 Hopefully the road was hairy, not the girlfriend.
@@InfectedChris well, yes, that's what I meant, but my girlfriend is a mammal, so....are you dating a fish?
@@titussardonicus338 I am head over gills for her so do not question my love!
@@InfectedChris lol this is a no judgement zone brother. Congrats to you both.
Your videos are so good , you don't need the music popping in and out . Great channel
At least it’s not playing under the narration. I’ll agree that it could ease into it, rather than pop up, at the end.
Maybe you'all should stick to major channels & networks were they have payed professional sound mixers and fouely arts.
Thanks for posting this! I live in Minnesota and often drive back roads along the Canadian Border. Not as abandoned or historic as what you're looking at, but pretty interesting nonetheless. Great small towns with great people. Some day I'll drive the back roads of Texas as well.
Take water....
That big hay wagon is awesome.
The reason the wheels are so massive is that they are made of cottonwood (los alamos) wood. Cottonwood trees have weak, easily splitting wood (a little like balsa) so they have to lumber the wood to be thick for strength. It's lighter wood than you think, for that reason. Oxen, burros or mules can pull them easier than you'd think.
Good job on the video. Thanks for posting. 👍
Ha ha. I grew up in this part of the country, when there was not a paved road out there....
Funny how they've fixed things up in parts... I remember an even more gloriously backwards place ♥️
There were two old gun-toting sisters who ran the hardware store in Candelabra. A favorite of mine...better than Disney World any day. Need to revisit this one day before I no longer live in this world.
Great memories, of better times. Thank you 🙏🇺🇲
Candelaria - dang auto correct changed it 🙄
Crazy we lived right across the border when we were little and those 2 sisters were awesome, one of them was Nellie and I hate that I can't remember the other lady's name. We used to buy groceries and get our mail there. Going through all the comments.
Love West Texas.
The roof and ceiling structures are in excellent condition. They appear to be well made and have lasted over 100 years and will probably be viable for another 100 years or more. Excellent video appreciate your posting thank you.
Became fascinated with the area while living in West Texas. Drove there through Marfa then Pinto Canyon (a little known piece of amazement). That fascination evolved to affection. I truly love every inch, from pavement's end on 2810 to 170 north through Candelaria and beyond. Though I've attempted reaching 90 to Van Horn heading north from Candelaria, as well as the opposite from 90 heading south through Porvenir then Candelaria, I've not successfully pulled it off after having made multiple attempts. My last trip was in 2021. Perhaps I'll return someday. I would strongly advise, if a person attempts any of these roads, arming one's self with ample water as you will almost certainly encounter folk desperate for a drink. You might literally save someone's life. Of course, exercise extreme caution and discernment. Having said that, I would not attempt without other means of armament also. And DO NOT traverse after dark!
Old style adobe structures are precious. Some are still studied because it is such a great building material.
What a magical video. Probably most people, except Texans, would not sense the magic of such an area.
Mexicans do - they feel as if they are in Mexico 💕
New destinations on my RV travel bucket list! Great video 👍
Thanks for watching. I hope that you enjoy as much as I did.
I was there in January and stayed at the Maverick RV park in Lajitas across from the Resort. Same folks run it. It was nice. All the amenities and a perfect in between place to stay. Spots were spacious and everything seemed well kept. I scouted the ones in Terlingua and they weren’t as nice. FM 170 (river road) is a BEAUTIFUL drive! I didn’t drive into the state park the entry road was poorly grated and I was in a F350 dually. (Ended up taking the old Maverick trail in National Park same thing 13 miles of bad road grating, busted a belt and had a blowout on the way home. I would only drive either of those roads with N off road equipped vehicle. But it was a cool drive to St. Elena canyon. Not worth it in the long run though. I’m ashamed as a 4th generation Texan to say that was my first time to Big Bend. I’m sorry I waited so long but will go back!
@@keitharterburn8593 Thanks for the detailed information! Have not been there as an adult, but want to go while my legs are still working. Right now there is a love-hate relationship with the 1976 Airstream land yacht that I inherited. We'll have to see how that turns out...
Some of those ruins almost look alike a movie set....very interesting. It's funny what you find exploring state parks as they are sometimes the best. Nice video and tour of the area.
Thanks for watching. Yeah this would definitely be a great place to film a movie.
Tommy Lee Jones produced and stared in a movie called The Three Burials of Melquiades Estrada, Redford Tx or El Polvo as it is called locally was used in several scenes for that movie.
It was common in 1920s and 30s to build replicas in parks and historic sites and for movie sets . . After 90 years it gets hard to tell a real one from a copy .
Thank you for this tour of West Texas. My grandfather was born in San Saba County ,Texas in 1874.
Wow! You may enjoy my Colorado Bend State Park video (Spicewood Canyon & Gorman Falls).
@@secretsoftexas6872
This is an excellent video and deserves more views My trip to Candelaria ended at Presidio because I ran out of time and energy. Lol, darn it. 😛
You've done such an excellent job on each of your episodes. I've enjoyed each segment and I look forward to watching each one.
The ruins in Presidio are amazing! Probably no one goes there because it has a reputation as the hottest town in Texas
I like that, because it keeps most people who are attracted by the beauty of the place from moving there. . . .😁
Thank you so much for this incredible video; I enjoyed it so very much. I live in SE Texas, and never really get to see what the western towns in TX look like. Always love seeing your fabulous videos with great music, and always keep coming back to hear that wonderful, soothing voice of yours.
Such a beautiful country.
You're making me want to travel the byways of the Lone Star State, thanks maybe I will just do that
There's a feeling of freedom I get when I drive these backroads, especially in west Texas.
@@secretsoftexas6872 I'm originally from south east Louisiana, can't count the many road trips to and from Mexico and Central America via east Texas. Right now I am dreaming of repopulating one of those declining west Texas towns.
My mom's always said. The bluest sky's of Texas. You're videos prove that!! I miss them. Moved to Switzer in 1987.
I'm in UK, viewing this, and feeling homesick for Texas skies. When I die, if God thinks I have lived a good life, I want Him to give me my own private Texas for my Heaven. There I will meet all my loved ones, all my beloved horses, dogs, cats, guinea pigs, etc, And I'll spend the next 10,000 years exploring every inch of Texas, in all geological eras; in all historical eras; at all times of the year. . . .
Beautiful video, thank you so much...I think I'll head down there in the spring. Your video is really well done!
Thanks for kind words. I hope you enjoy your trip.
Please don’t come to this general area in the Spring, it is packed with spring breakers where everyone comes all at once for two weeks. We literally run out of supplies because of all of the spring breakers.
I worked at the shafter silver mine. That whole area feels strange and alien.
Like the Dwight Yoakum song, 1000 miles from nowhere.
How far from Presido or Marfa?
@@MarcosElMalo2 shafter silver mine is like 20 minutes from presidio. And i would say 40 minutes to Marfa and theres a border check point about 5 or 10 miles before Marfa.
Just out of curiosity, why does that area feel strange and alien to you?
@@tammyslaughter9587first presidio is a border town with the majority of residents are border patrol cops. Then the rest of the residents are Mexican. About 50 miles away from the border its just desert mountains and the road passes memorial markers and a ghost town called shafter. till you get to a border check point. Then you hit Marfa which is like back to civilization but still in the twilight zone. Marfa is a small town way off the major roads so its not really up to the times. Its quaint. Its hard to explain until youve lived there. I went there to do electric work on the silver mine. Neat place to visit.
Don't forget SHAFTER which is a small GHOST TOWN known for it's mining back in the day, which is about 30 miles North of PRESIDIO TEXAS!
Lot of ghost towns out west, just a matter of finding them.
Shafter is the headquarters for a sizeable mining company. Not a ghost town now!
@@louispaparella5766 Coal?
@@adrianjohnson7920 Silver
@@adrianjohnson7920 silver
Very interesting! Thanks for posting, a lot of people including myself would Love to travel out there & check things out!
First places in Texas I would plan to see.
Very nice!
West Texas is wonderful for it's lack of people. Something I easily tire of.
To anyone: Check out the Santa Fe Building in downtown Amarillo. It has been over twenty years, but I got a tour from a nice lady who worked for the county. She took time out of her day to give me a 15 min tour. What an interesting building and history. I have no idea if it is still there, open, closed, don't know. I am an architect fan. The quality of the old buildings is off the charts. There is brass all over the place. The floors, walls, every little detail is just over the top. They used to have a little BBQ place right across the street that opened at 1130 and closed at 2, or whenever they ran out of food. Better get there early if you want some BBQ.
New subscriber here! Enjoy you channel and you knowledge of the area!
Thank you!
You're welcome! I hope to see you again soon.
So glad I found this…great video thanks y’all 🤠
Nicely done! Thanks
I visited that fort in Presido 3 years ago.
Nice video.
super video👍8
very nice video, thanks.
There’s a tranquility in remoteness.
I an headed to west Texas and the gulf this fall.....love your channel!
Would love to ride the whole area maybe this year
Might think about a trip along hiway 60 from Amarillo to the Oklahoma border. Goes through several small towns all of which were hit by a tornado in 47 I believe. Glazier was almost totally wiped out, only the small jail is left from the tornado. Higgins is another dying town a mile from the Oklahoma border. It was also slammed by the twister, hitting my mom's house
Was in Higgins in 09. Seemed like it was stirring
Everything looks like old Mexico
It is isn't it?
Looks like Texas to me
@@coryyoung8289 no it’s definitely Texas!
It was old Mexico before the Alamo
@@eileenmcgovern9193
My little brothers godparents always talked about being from Old Mexico as a little kid I didn't understand what they meant.
They had the biggest family I have ever seen.
I love ruins. We were stationed in Germany from 72 to 96 so we went to a lot of ruins
I love old places
Love the music for your videos.
The Chinati hot springs are a fun place to hang out. Then if you are driving a Jeep you can take Palo Pinto road north to Marfa.
*Pinto Canyon, not Palo Pinto (the name of the county seat of a county west of Fort Worth).
0:50 I live in Terlingua, the property shown on this time stamp is a property that one of my friends owns. I helped post the fence that protects it and another that extends behind it. Redford is a really cool place!
We've traveled this area several years ago... beautiful area..
In the middle of Audtralia now thats deserted dirt road from LA to Chicago.
I stayed in Presidio back in June of 1993, and I toyed with the idea of driving up the river road to Candelaria, but I read in my travel guide that it was dangerous, so I decided to head up US 67 to Marfa instead. I remember having dinner the night before in Presidio, where the waitress told me that people often asked her when they had crossed the border into Mexico. Presidio is so poor that it appears to be in a third - world country.
It literally is.
Really great fascinating videos!!
Wow!! Beautiful Fort!!
Been there many time's, great video.
Love your camera work and editing. Beautifully done. Please tell me what editing software you use. I’d love to try using it. Thank you.
Wondershare Filmora
❤️❤️❤️
I just did these RUclips videos. I'm a Texan and am learning so much about my state....ready to plan some road trips.
Ever wonder what’s around the bend? This...
Beautifull 👍
I would love to live in Redford.
Why would anyone want to live in Redford?
@@tammyslaughter9587 To get away from idiots from Dallas.
Viva Texas
Every place I've ever been,,, always looks good at sunrise. Texas ain't much different, but after 10 a.m.,, your looking for shade 6 months outta the year,, and no place ever looked better than,,, when lookin back.
I would so love to live In a small town in Texas.
Found your fascinating channel. Whenever the music plays I have to turn the volume down. Maybe it's just me?
Yeah there's a stretch of videos where the music was a little too strong. It happened after I bought a new camera. It wasn't very noticeable to me but others have said the same thing. Going forward I think the videos have a better sound balance.
@@secretsoftexas6872 Just needed some normalization.
At 9:07, very impressive little church.
Presidio is often mentioned as the hottest city in the US!
The cart @ 2:10 is a two mule drive for sure...LOL!
Terlingua used to have a billy goat for a mayor. They kept him penned outside the little general store and you could go in and buy him a longneck beer. You handed it to him and he grabbed it by the neck and turned it up and guzzled it! His name was Clay Henry! Circa 1984. It’s where outlaws went to never be found...the Good Old Days!
I like those ruins
Thanks for stopping by. I love this region of Texas more multiple reasons.
The question is, is Bror Fredrik aware of this news?
I would like to metal detect some of those spots if given the opportunity!
I drove the dirt river road from Presidio to Candelaria in the late 90’s in a rental SUV. There I met the owner of the tiny supply store, a retired teacher from elsewhere in Texas, lovely lady. There is a story about the local school placing at the top of the state in student testing, there may even be a movie or tv special on it. There was a foot bridge across the river leading to a village in Mexico. I saw Mexicans freely crossing the bridge, some to shop at the lady’s store. She let them receive their mail there because US Post is quicker than the Mexican Post. There was a zone along the river called Zona Frontera where Mexicans could cross and move freely. They often drove along the US river road (which was better than the Mexican roads) when they wanted to visit another Mexican village, then park on the US side and use the foot bridge to cross. Of course the Zona Frontera was narrow, beyond a mile or less the Border Patrol had infrared beams everywhere on the hills. I was told there was one BP agent stationed every 100 miles along the river, so they relied heavily on the beams, also on check stations on all roads leading inland.
If anyone knows the Candelaria supply store lady please tell her hi, I’ll never forget her.
The road from Presidio west to Candelaria is the western section of TX 170 and is not a dirt river road. It has been paved for decades. I have driven it only a few times, but when I drove it most recently, around 1999 or so, it was paved.
My step- mom was born in Skellytown. All but abandoned now.
✌️👊
It takes a while after acquisition to open a park. First it needs to be made safe for visitors. There will be researchers - archeologists, anthropologists, botanists, geologists - all working to interpret the story of the land. Some construction of trails and parking, signage will go up. Then it opens.
I always wonder if there is any place like that I han rebuild as a new home.
It looks like you are the only person exploring this route. Is it that abandoned? Or do you go during the early morning hours?
Did you say that reservation need to be made in advance? Is there a website to make the reservations?
No but I recommend making all reservations through Texas State Parks website in advance just in case. Last year they were limiting the number of people in the parks.
The old hay hauler wagon
Looks like sonora mexico
Why are there no people?
It would be fun to continue westward on the gravel road but I would be concerned about smugglers and drug cartels operating in this area. Did you see any signs of this during your visit? The Border Patrol has warning signs in the Arizona desert around Ajo indicating it is unsafe.
I've signs of people (and people) crossing all along the Texas border from Brownsville to far west Texas, but I have never felt like I was in any real danger. The most important thing would be to never actually cross to the other side in the middle of nowhere. There many places way out there where you could easily walk across but I don't recommend ever doing that.
Yes there are quite a bit of smugglers and drug cartel, it’s dangerous
Any arrowheads?
No, there's some cool fossils though. I'm from there.
Do you ever metal detect the places you go?
I don't but I'm sure you could find some great treasures if you did
They have a bridge there over the Rio grande that let's kids from Mexico go to school on the other side
I noticed no one else is around. Were you by yourselves there? Or were there other tourists?
For the second half of the video there were no tourists when I was there.
It has become quite touristy in the last few years, people go down there when they visit big bend/Marfa
If we would have drove another 15 miles we would have seen that fort
I hope it gives you a reason to go back soon. I always seem to leave one intriguing thing behind when I visit a place.
Are these the town where that movie star shot his cameraman?
That was Alec Baldwin on a movie ranch in NM
There was a huge old Mexican flag, a virgin de Guadalupe, plus the town is right at the border and has Spanish-Mexican adobe architecture ... and still, you did not even mention Mexico. LOL.
I rarely mention any other place that's not in Texas. I have mentioned Mexico on multiple occasions in my videos along the border, however.
I would have enjoyed the content , but the music volume was way too loud. whywhywhy do you people do this ?????
is there any water is this area?
You're right next to the Rio Grande here
@@secretsoftexas6872 I never relised so much of USA is so dry.