Thanks for this, your a life saver. i have the same valve as you and its cracked in the same spot. I just orderd the abs filliment from amazon . saved me $150
I hope it works for you, mine is still holding up. I have done about 5 of them so far, including one where the owner wanted to keep the threaded ports. we painted the area with acetone and then wrapped the ports with 28 or 30 gage stainless steel wire. then painted it with the slurry. he used a non hardening pipe dope to connect the pipe fittings. It did not leak. I think I would still rather do it like the video, and then either leave enough pipe so it can be cut and put back together with unions if it needs to be, or use quick connects as I did. I have found many uses for the slurry so I keep a jar handy. neat thing is, if it dries out, just add acetone and it is good to go.
Hi, thanks so much for this video. I have a couple of questions. 1. First, how is this homemade slurry different/better than regular storebought ABS cement (or ABS-to-PVC cement)? 2. Also, did you use the slurry on the valve threading, or just on the exterior of the valve? Where there is a crack in the threaded part I would want to seal it on both sides but I'm nervous that on the interior of the valve by the threads themselves the acetone even if it seals the crack could also deform the threads so that the PVC can't screw into the valve neatly. 3. Finally, how did you permanently attach the PVC to the valve? Did you slather slurry on the threads immediately before screwing in the PVC? How much time do you have before it sets? Thanks!
the slurry is liquid plastic, just the abs and acetone. I believe the cement is mostly solvent and is designed to fuse the parts together. the slurry will fuse the parts together and where there is space it will build up. the plastic around the threads dont have enough material to take the stress of the fitting when it is tightened more than hand tight. I build up the material around the outside to give it strength, and then ran the fitting in hand tight and sealed it around the fitting. I used quick connects to allow the valve to be removed. The original one I fixed has been running for almost 3 years, does not leak a drop, and has been exposed to florida sun most of the day.
Thanks for sharing - Is it still holding-up? My valve assembly has a small crack where the line feeds from the pump. I tried epoxy, lubed the threads, and attached a steel clamp but it didn't work...
Yes, it is still dry and has been in operation a little over a year. I have done a second one for a friend and it has been dry, probably about a year. One thing i noticed is that you should grind or file off as much epoxy as possible. The second one we did not remove the fittings or pipes and did it on the filter. I applied a couple thin coats of abs slurry that was pretty liquid, then we thickened the slurry to not quite jelly constancy and painted it on in pretty thick coats, covering the valve pipe ports back to the valve body, like in the video and filled in the threaded union so the threads were filled. it makes it a part of valve body. you can fix any part of the valve body but should avoid mating surfaces to the valve handle and the filter. you probably can do them also if you are really careful and can flatten it enough that they mate. Both times it took about 5 coats allowing it to dry overnight between coats. I have not tried shorter drying times, but on other things it looks like it takes more than 6 hours to get really hard.
@@junglejimsworkshop2985 I’m gonna try this - I wish I could send you a picture of what I’m dealing-with. But I think I just need to merge the pipe to the valve body with slurry (after screwing into the valve body), and also make sure to coat any cracked area on the valve body as well (using 5 coats, 6 hrs apart. Any issues applying this outside in the heat / moisture? Would it be enough to just tarp it after application? Thanks! One more ques: is it ok to use 100% acetone nail polish remover? Perhaps obvious but just making sure Much appreciated -
@@serf6355 I am in orlando and did it during early summer so about 88 to 92 degrees and 60% - 70% humidity. I dont think temp or humidity will have much to do with it, because this does not glue the seam, it disolves itself into the plastic, then as the acetone evaporates it leaves the plastic. So the plastic becomes part of the valve. If you are going to do it with the valve in place, then I would cover it to protect from rain (which I dont think will bother it, but might cause some material to run off or sag). Leave space for ventilation because unlike epoxy, this dries by evaporation. I would coat the pipe union thread like I did, I filled the gap between valve and end of the threaded area of the union. I did not use teflon tape on the threads, and I put slurry on the thread. I did not tighten the union much beyond threading it in until I felt it starting to snug, that way the cracks are not stretched open too much. The one I did in place, the slurry would sag to the bottom so the bottom was a good bit thicker that the seal on top. make the slurry thick so it does not run off when applied.
@@junglejimsworkshop2985 Thanks for that added detail. I have gobs of sealant lube on both threads.. I guess I will need to clean this up as much as possible, then add the slurry to the threads as well - Really hoping this works!
You've taught me a new way to fix lots of stuff and save lots of money fixing my pool. Thanks very much.
Thanks for this, your a life saver. i have the same valve as you and its cracked in the same spot. I just orderd the abs filliment from amazon . saved me $150
I hope it works for you, mine is still holding up. I have done about 5 of them so far, including one where the owner wanted to keep the threaded ports. we painted the area with acetone and then wrapped the ports with 28 or 30 gage stainless steel wire. then painted it with the slurry. he used a non hardening pipe dope to connect the pipe fittings. It did not leak. I think I would still rather do it like the video, and then either leave enough pipe so it can be cut and put back together with unions if it needs to be, or use quick connects as I did. I have found many uses for the slurry so I keep a jar handy. neat thing is, if it dries out, just add acetone and it is good to go.
Hi, thanks so much for this video. I have a couple of questions.
1. First, how is this homemade slurry different/better than regular storebought ABS cement (or ABS-to-PVC cement)?
2. Also, did you use the slurry on the valve threading, or just on the exterior of the valve? Where there is a crack in the threaded part I would want to seal it on both sides but I'm nervous that on the interior of the valve by the threads themselves the acetone even if it seals the crack could also deform the threads so that the PVC can't screw into the valve neatly.
3. Finally, how did you permanently attach the PVC to the valve? Did you slather slurry on the threads immediately before screwing in the PVC? How much time do you have before it sets?
Thanks!
the slurry is liquid plastic, just the abs and acetone. I believe the cement is mostly solvent and is designed to fuse the parts together. the slurry will fuse the parts together and where there is space it will build up. the plastic around the threads dont have enough material to take the stress of the fitting when it is tightened more than hand tight. I build up the material around the outside to give it strength, and then ran the fitting in hand tight and sealed it around the fitting. I used quick connects to allow the valve to be removed. The original one I fixed has been running for almost 3 years, does not leak a drop, and has been exposed to florida sun most of the day.
Thanks for sharing - Is it still holding-up? My valve assembly has a small crack where the line feeds from the pump. I tried epoxy, lubed the threads, and attached a steel clamp but it didn't work...
Yes, it is still dry and has been in operation a little over a year. I have done a second one for a friend and it has been dry, probably about a year. One thing i noticed is that you should grind or file off as much epoxy as possible. The second one we did not remove the fittings or pipes and did it on the filter. I applied a couple thin coats of abs slurry that was pretty liquid, then we thickened the slurry to not quite jelly constancy and painted it on in pretty thick coats, covering the valve pipe ports back to the valve body, like in the video and filled in the threaded union so the threads were filled. it makes it a part of valve body. you can fix any part of the valve body but should avoid mating surfaces to the valve handle and the filter. you probably can do them also if you are really careful and can flatten it enough that they mate. Both times it took about 5 coats allowing it to dry overnight between coats. I have not tried shorter drying times, but on other things it looks like it takes more than 6 hours to get really hard.
@@junglejimsworkshop2985 I’m gonna try this - I wish I could send you a picture of what I’m dealing-with.
But I think I just need to merge the pipe to the valve body with slurry (after screwing into the valve body), and also make sure to coat any cracked area on the valve body as well (using 5 coats, 6 hrs apart.
Any issues applying this outside in the heat / moisture? Would it be enough to just tarp it after application?
Thanks!
One more ques: is it ok to use 100% acetone nail polish remover? Perhaps obvious but just making sure
Much appreciated -
@@serf6355 I am in orlando and did it during early summer so about 88 to 92 degrees and 60% - 70% humidity. I dont think temp or humidity will have much to do with it, because this does not glue the seam, it disolves itself into the plastic, then as the acetone evaporates it leaves the plastic. So the plastic becomes part of the valve. If you are going to do it with the valve in place, then I would cover it to protect from rain (which I dont think will bother it, but might cause some material to run off or sag). Leave space for ventilation because unlike epoxy, this dries by evaporation. I would coat the pipe union thread like I did, I filled the gap between valve and end of the threaded area of the union. I did not use teflon tape on the threads, and I put slurry on the thread. I did not tighten the union much beyond threading it in until I felt it starting to snug, that way the cracks are not stretched open too much. The one I did in place, the slurry would sag to the bottom so the bottom was a good bit thicker that the seal on top. make the slurry thick so it does not run off when applied.
@@junglejimsworkshop2985 Thanks for that added detail. I have gobs of sealant lube on both threads.. I guess I will need to clean this up as much as possible, then add the slurry to the threads as well -
Really hoping this works!
This worked like a charm!!!
Saved me $250-
You’re the man 👊
Thanks again!