Getting a bunch of questions from new subscribers about the AS line... Figured it was worth a quick, less than 10 minute video, to cover this topic since it is a great suspension tuning tool to help provide a reference point, from which you can make educated changes to your 4 Link suspension! Ladder bars are discussed, but checkout this Percentage of Rise video for ladder bars: ruclips.net/video/mmjieeSov4Q/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!! KevinWilsonSBC
🤣🤣🤣 “ Please don’t attempt to pick your car up from the center of gravity” Great video Kevin, can’t wait to get my truck up and running to impatient some of the awesome info that you have been putting out!
Another great video! Making a refresher video at this point of your video series is great! Reminds me of a mid term review from college 😁 Looking forward to the next one!
I don't race but I enjoy physics and engineering and your videos are extremely well made, clear, to the point, and loaded with valuable information. Thank you for your efforts.
I love seeing these informative videos people can learn from and put it to use over these other channels that don't teach nothing or that throw little bits and pcs out there and leave yeah hanging. All the many years I been street and track racing, this is the best suspension setup channel i've seen.. Another great one, as all of the other videos are. By listen, watching and rewatching, and taking notes to studying and practice on your car, you should be able to get your car pretty damn close so where you can make a test hit a fine tune from there.
This video and explanation makes understanding the anti-squat line and instant center very easy to understand. I finally built a car fast enough to use this kind of information. I’ve always loved drag racing but never had what I consider fast car. This is my first four link car and your videos have given me the most useful and easy to understand knowledge of this kind of stuff compared to other peoples videos. Thanks for so much useful info. I can’t wait to put all of this to use in the spring because it’s way to cold with snow and salt all over so my car won’t be touching these roads for a few months unfortunately.
Edward, wow, thanks for the compliment and support of the channel! I really appreciate your kind words and this keeps me motivated to keep providing content. Thank-you very much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Learn so much in depth chassis information off your videos. But I beg for help for us leaf spring no prep guys. This same exact video but for leaf spring would be awesome. But Regardless love the videos!
@@KevinWilsonSBC very much appreciated and I have 1 leaf out of a original 4 leaf. Double adjustable, anti roll, caltracs with adjustable rear mounts, also just added new rear sliders. Solid bushing front and rear.
lol me over here trying to apply this to my rc car. I found your other videos on weight distribution and the additional links one with the weight calculator, I was able to keep up and apply the majority but this anti squat has me popping my own squat lol Ima have to watch this 10 times.
There is others who do a better job of explaining it. 4 link rear suspension and anti squat line is a very common tuning approach. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
In the works... hit the alert icon on my channel... checkout the top post in my channel community: ruclips.net/channel/UCimtPkWuqdLydEey7SEwEagcommunity Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is a great video explaining to people how to find the CG of there car, which we all know is very important. As discussed in this video, I always used the Camshaft for height of CG and when I finally got my scales (which you need to find front to back) it is very easy to build 10" stands so you can do the math to find the height. After measuring the cam centerline and now using the scales, I will always do the 10" rise (angle) method to find the height of the CG. Great information! Keep up the videos.
Thanks so much for sharing here!!! Keep me posted as I am very curious how close the camshaft height is to your actual CG height using this method. It absolutely works!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I have found that the camshaft height is pretty close in street cars (Cars only not trucks, elco, etc) that have the engine in stock location and the car is stock. The more you modify the car (Back half the car), Move engines, remove interior, etc the CG does move quite abit (20-30%) off the cam shaft centerline. So stock cars I would say it is ok to use, but for anything modified (which is most cars anymore) I wouldn't recommend cam shaft height. But Like stated above, if you have scales to do the corner weights, why wouldn't you use the same tool to use the raise method to find the CG? Thanks for the reply.
When it gets warm and tracks are open I am planning some Instant Center changes and video outcomes... stay tuned, turn on alerts for sure! Thanks Peter Dean-Osgood! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hey Kevin, Found this video useful for building a electric drag bike! What would you suggest for ideal traction? If over is +100, and under is under 100.. Would it be ideal at 95? Where is the math to sorting this? In my case my swing arm is .58" above the anti squat line, and the bike is unloading the rear shock fully and spinning very badly. I have ability to drop the pivot 2.6" below the anti squat line. Kinda a one or the other situation. I think this would be a step in the right direction?
You draw the AS line the exact same way. Then it is a matter of the front leaf spring mount location in relation to the AS line. Start with this one, ruclips.net/video/EsnDUQjpInU/видео.html and then this one: ruclips.net/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hi, Kevin. Great information. I have a triangulated 4 link. Do you recommend extrapolating the top links as if they were parallel with the bottom links, or is there a different way that I should consider to getting the instant center? Thanks. Dan
Thanks a bunch Kevin! I'm converting my ladder bar, lowered 81 Camaro with 500 ponies and a stick shift tranny into a 4 link setup for better street-ability. This car won't be raced or auto-crossed at all, I just want it to drive nice, hook up the best it can with probably 100% anti-squat and with wide street tires. I'm designing the brackets and bars that will be installed. Question, some sites state for best street manners, you want a level to the road bottom bar, and a equal length, and parallel top bar. I will be adding a super beefy diagonal link. What are some do's and don'ts, for a street setup? I'm leaning towards a bottom bar that is as long and low as possible, with it angled up toward the front chassis mount probably 1", and having a top bar that is level with the ground and around 75% the length of the bottom bar. I seen a post where it said that you want to rear axle centerline to track perfectly vertical. What do you think?
I would really encourage you to invest in a 30 minute phone call to discuss this and much more before starting and finishing the conversion. Checkout my website services at "samsonperformance.com" and you will see a 30 minute phone call as an option. There is more to this to cover. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I know I'm not kevin but, are you trying to use a torque arm and a 4 link or ladder or are you wanting to know what to switch to? I ask because of the way your question is worded. if you have a torque arm you don't run a 4 link or ladder with it. That would be like trying to add a 4 link to a leaf car. If your wanting to switch from a torquearm, the 4 link is always the best way to go.
BUT... many cars have up to a 2" front axle offset from one side to the other. 😜 Then add in rear steer axle centerline offset to that. So is that referred to as "didley squat"? We need another video.
Hi. I try to find information about no prep 4link setup with street tires.. I have 4 link with shorter upper bar. I have about 2inches of separation suspension travel and 2inches of squat travel from ride height. Should I have squat or anti squat? Regards Mattias from Sweden.
Great question. Measure from the centerline of the crankshaft bolt to one of the centerlines of the cam, then divide by 2. This will get you close. Remember unless you use the method in the description to find the exact height of the CG, this is a reference line whereby you can make an educated baseline, then test and make changes from their based on the car's reaction. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Good question. Really using the cam location for traditional motors is just a reference point so you have a known location from which to test and then make educated changes to the IC. So you can get the crank height, then measure up to 3/4 of the way to overhead cam height. However, the absolute best way to find the HEIGHT of the CG is here: www.longacreracing.com/blog.aspx?post=8791&title=Center-of-Gravity-Height Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
You can do that as a reference mark for a shortened tq arm. But really the AS line for F-Body is mainly impacted by the LCA mount point on the chassis. Checkout these 2 videos: ruclips.net/video/vpMoOEG7WcA/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/gF69zjDos10/видео.html to tie it all together. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I will keep getting better on this... Shooting to keep all videos less than 18 minutes and around 12 - 15. Harder than it looks. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Can you help me? My brains just exploded. My car is very unusual. The upper link is reversed. The link goes rearward from the axle. So does raising the rear upper point increase or decrease anti squat? I feel like it should be decreasing but the calculator I used says otherwise. I don't know if the calculator has lost its mind because I moved the link point behind the axle. HELP!
I have never tuned a rear suspension like that for drag racing. I recommend you checkout my website at www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html to see if one of the services offered makes sense to you. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC well, it's not a drag car . It's a drift car. And I appreciate the offer on the tuning purchase but I don't need that. I'm just trying to make sure I'm going the right way when I'm changing.
I used to figure CG of vehicles and cargo longer than 108" so we could put it on aircraft in the USAF. Used to have all that math memorized, but I been out for 16 years and for the last two years had a scale that told us the CG up to 240 inches. Tracked vehicles like M1 Abrams are lots of fun to do. They spread everything out and weigh 'a lot' which is an understatement. Man I am going to have so much fun doing 60ft to 100ft launches in Canada (its closer than Mexico) setting up my car this summer. I have an idea of where I will start with the rear end of the 68. I'll need to get it scaled, the guys at the gravel pit like me, so I'll haul it over there and see how heavy the front and rear are. This is going to be a ton of fun.
@@KevinWilsonSBC 68 LeMans, currently it has a 461 Pontiac in it. Somewhat largish flat solid, Edelbrock heads, 3.42 gears, and its lightened extensively. I dropped more than 800lbs off the car when I built it. I plan to take it to the no name nationals this fall and run other youtubers. It might not have the 461 in it at that point, but I want to make it hook on gravel. lol
Getting a bunch of questions from new subscribers about the AS line... Figured it was worth a quick, less than 10 minute video, to cover this topic since it is a great suspension tuning tool to help provide a reference point, from which you can make educated changes to your 4 Link suspension! Ladder bars are discussed, but checkout this Percentage of Rise video for ladder bars: ruclips.net/video/mmjieeSov4Q/видео.html
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
KevinWilsonSBC
Learning a bunch on your videos.
Thanks Iron Chief 1963!!! I appreciate you supporting the channel!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Class is once again in session boys and girls! Pay attention, Professor Wilson is speaking knowledge!
Thanks Kevin!
Jeff, thanks for the support of the channel. I appreciate you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
🤣🤣🤣 “ Please don’t attempt to pick your car up from the center of gravity”
Great video Kevin, can’t wait to get my truck up and running to impatient some of the awesome info that you have been putting out!
LOL... You know, someone just might try it... LOL.. Thanks, Donnie!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
We live in a world of disclaimers lol 😆
I thank you for revisiting this. GREAT channel.
You are welcome, Steve!!! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Comment added to help ya with the 'rhythm. Least I can do in return for the great videos you give us, thanks again Kevin!
Thanks so much, Rusty Hook! Appreciate you watching and supporting the channel! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Excellent thank you Kevin
Greg, thank-you for the comments!! Appreciate you very much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Another great video!
Making a refresher video at this point of your video series is great! Reminds me of a mid term review from college 😁
Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks so much Kevinnalgle!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I don't race but I enjoy physics and engineering and your videos are extremely well made, clear, to the point, and loaded with valuable information. Thank you for your efforts.
Good clear breakdown for everyone
Thanks Chuck! Appreciate you leaving a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Keep them comeing
Thanks, Ben. I have stuff coming for sure... stay tuned! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I love seeing these informative videos people can learn from and put it to use over these other channels that don't teach nothing or that throw little bits and pcs out there and leave yeah hanging. All the many years I been street and track racing, this is the best suspension setup channel i've seen.. Another great one, as all of the other videos are. By listen, watching and rewatching, and taking notes to studying and practice on your car, you should be able to get your car pretty damn close so where you can make a test hit a fine tune from there.
Wow! Thanks for accolades, Jason! I appreciate you taking the time to share this!! Thanks so much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This video and explanation makes understanding the anti-squat line and instant center very easy to understand. I finally built a car fast enough to use this kind of information. I’ve always loved drag racing but never had what I consider fast car. This is my first four link car and your videos have given me the most useful and easy to understand knowledge of this kind of stuff compared to other peoples videos. Thanks for so much useful info. I can’t wait to put all of this to use in the spring because it’s way to cold with snow and salt all over so my car won’t be touching these roads for a few months unfortunately.
Edward, wow, thanks for the compliment and support of the channel! I really appreciate your kind words and this keeps me motivated to keep providing content. Thank-you very much! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thank you for making these videos!
Absolutely!! Thanks for supporting the channel! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Learn so much in depth chassis information off your videos. But I beg for help for us leaf spring no prep guys. This same exact video but for leaf spring would be awesome. But Regardless love the videos!
OK. I will do an AS line just for leaf springs. Have you watched the 2 leaf springs I have out already? Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC very much appreciated and I have 1 leaf out of a original 4 leaf. Double adjustable, anti roll, caltracs with adjustable rear mounts, also just added new rear sliders. Solid bushing front and rear.
lol me over here trying to apply this to my rc car. I found your other videos on weight distribution and the additional links one with the weight calculator, I was able to keep up and apply the majority but this anti squat has me popping my own squat lol Ima have to watch this 10 times.
There is others who do a better job of explaining it. 4 link rear suspension and anti squat line is a very common tuning approach. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video!
Thanks so much!! Appreciate you supporting the channel!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
how about a video on this for us leaf spring guys.
In the works... hit the alert icon on my channel... checkout the top post in my channel community: ruclips.net/channel/UCimtPkWuqdLydEey7SEwEagcommunity
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
This is a great video explaining to people how to find the CG of there car, which we all know is very important. As discussed in this video, I always used the Camshaft for height of CG and when I finally got my scales (which you need to find front to back) it is very easy to build 10" stands so you can do the math to find the height. After measuring the cam centerline and now using the scales, I will always do the 10" rise (angle) method to find the height of the CG. Great information! Keep up the videos.
Thanks so much for sharing here!!! Keep me posted as I am very curious how close the camshaft height is to your actual CG height using this method. It absolutely works!!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I have found that the camshaft height is pretty close in street cars (Cars only not trucks, elco, etc) that have the engine in stock location and the car is stock. The more you modify the car (Back half the car), Move engines, remove interior, etc the CG does move quite abit (20-30%) off the cam shaft centerline. So stock cars I would say it is ok to use, but for anything modified (which is most cars anymore) I wouldn't recommend cam shaft height.
But Like stated above, if you have scales to do the corner weights, why wouldn't you use the same tool to use the raise method to find the CG? Thanks for the reply.
Tuning in from Ottawa Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
One day I will get to Canada!!! Such a beautiful place!!! Thanks for supporting the channel across the border! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Nice explanation, love to see this in practice at the track
When it gets warm and tracks are open I am planning some Instant Center changes and video outcomes... stay tuned, turn on alerts for sure! Thanks Peter Dean-Osgood! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hey Kevin, Found this video useful for building a electric drag bike!
What would you suggest for ideal traction? If over is +100, and under is under 100.. Would it be ideal at 95? Where is the math to sorting this?
In my case my swing arm is .58" above the anti squat line, and the bike is unloading the rear shock fully and spinning very badly.
I have ability to drop the pivot 2.6" below the anti squat line. Kinda a one or the other situation. I think this would be a step in the right direction?
How does this compare to a leaf spring and caltracs setup? Thanks for the videos
You draw the AS line the exact same way. Then it is a matter of the front leaf spring mount location in relation to the AS line. Start with this one, ruclips.net/video/EsnDUQjpInU/видео.html and then this one: ruclips.net/video/WcA5xQGWpuY/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hey Kevin, great video. Would these principles also apply to a torque arm suspension or would that be similar to the ladder bar?
Checkout ruclips.net/video/vpMoOEG7WcA/видео.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Thank you sir for your knowledge!!! 🇺🇸💪🏼
You are welcome! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks again! Great teaching!!
My pleasure! Thanks for sharing that in a comment! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hi, Kevin. Great information. I have a triangulated 4 link. Do you recommend extrapolating the top links as if they were parallel with the bottom links, or is there a different way that I should consider to getting the instant center? Thanks. Dan
Yes, absolutely follow the same method. I will be publishing a Fox Body suspension video soon. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Good refresher!
Thanks so much, Dunecoones!! Appreciate you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks a bunch Kevin!
I'm converting my ladder bar, lowered 81 Camaro with 500 ponies and a stick shift tranny into a 4 link setup for better street-ability.
This car won't be raced or auto-crossed at all, I just want it to drive nice, hook up the best it can with probably 100% anti-squat and with wide street tires.
I'm designing the brackets and bars that will be installed.
Question, some sites state for best street manners, you want a level to the road bottom bar, and a equal length, and parallel top bar. I will be adding a super beefy diagonal link.
What are some do's and don'ts, for a street setup?
I'm leaning towards a bottom bar that is as long and low as possible, with it angled up toward the front chassis mount probably 1", and having a top bar that is level with the ground and around 75% the length of the bottom bar. I seen a post where it said that you want to rear axle centerline to track perfectly vertical.
What do you think?
I would really encourage you to invest in a 30 minute phone call to discuss this and much more before starting and finishing the conversion. Checkout my website services at "samsonperformance.com" and you will see a 30 minute phone call as an option. There is more to this to cover. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
www.samsonperformance.com/store/p10/30_Minute_Call_or_In_Shop_Deposit.html
Ideally, is the center of gravity, just the sprung weight? Disregarding the weight of the wheels and axles that are unsprung?
NO... it is total weight. Good question. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Hey Kevin which should I use on a torque arm 4 link or ladder bar?
I know I'm not kevin but, are you trying to use a torque arm and a 4 link or ladder or are you wanting to know what to switch to? I ask because of the way your question is worded. if you have a torque arm you don't run a 4 link or ladder with it. That would be like trying to add a 4 link to a leaf car. If your wanting to switch from a torquearm, the 4 link is always the best way to go.
At a very high level without any info, if you ask my choice, 4 Link all day long. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
BUT... many cars have up to a 2" front axle offset from one side to the other. 😜 Then add in rear steer axle centerline offset to that. So is that referred to as "didley squat"? We need another video.
O Lawd.... remember this is a reference line... but I hear ya. More videos in the works for sure. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hi.
I try to find information about no prep 4link setup with street tires..
I have 4 link with shorter upper bar.
I have about 2inches of separation suspension travel and 2inches of squat travel from ride height.
Should I have squat or anti squat?
Regards Mattias from Sweden.
What happens with a over head camshaft engines vs central camshaft engines for reference?
Yes I also would like to know a method when using a overhead cam 👍🏿
Great question. Measure from the centerline of the crankshaft bolt to one of the centerlines of the cam, then divide by 2. This will get you close. Remember unless you use the method in the description to find the exact height of the CG, this is a reference line whereby you can make an educated baseline, then test and make changes from their based on the car's reaction. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
So for a Modular motor with overhead cams what would you use for CG height ?
Looks like the formula to calculate it would take a physics major lol
Good question. Really using the cam location for traditional motors is just a reference point so you have a known location from which to test and then make educated changes to the IC. So you can get the crank height, then measure up to 3/4 of the way to overhead cam height. However, the absolute best way to find the HEIGHT of the CG is here: www.longacreracing.com/blog.aspx?post=8791&title=Center-of-Gravity-Height
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Always great tech sir.
Much appreciated!! Thanks so much, Go4BrokeOffroad!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks Kevin!
You're welcome!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
On the F body torque bar do you draw it's line from the bottom bar meeting with where the lower control arm line intersects?
You can do that as a reference mark for a shortened tq arm. But really the AS line for F-Body is mainly impacted by the LCA mount point on the chassis. Checkout these 2 videos: ruclips.net/video/vpMoOEG7WcA/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/gF69zjDos10/видео.html to tie it all together. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
well done
Thank-you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Activa subtitulos en español gracias
How do I measure this on a Fbody 4th gen with a torque arm?
ruclips.net/video/vpMoOEG7WcA/видео.htmlsi=CP-tPeZsFcS4FJWF
Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Less than 12 mins is ideal
I will keep getting better on this... Shooting to keep all videos less than 18 minutes and around 12 - 15. Harder than it looks. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Can you help me? My brains just exploded. My car is very unusual. The upper link is reversed. The link goes rearward from the axle. So does raising the rear upper point increase or decrease anti squat? I feel like it should be decreasing but the calculator I used says otherwise. I don't know if the calculator has lost its mind because I moved the link point behind the axle. HELP!
I have never tuned a rear suspension like that for drag racing. I recommend you checkout my website at www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html to see if one of the services offered makes sense to you. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC well, it's not a drag car . It's a drift car. And I appreciate the offer on the tuning purchase but I don't need that. I'm just trying to make sure I'm going the right way when I'm changing.
Subtítulos
I used to figure CG of vehicles and cargo longer than 108" so we could put it on aircraft in the USAF. Used to have all that math memorized, but I been out for 16 years and for the last two years had a scale that told us the CG up to 240 inches. Tracked vehicles like M1 Abrams are lots of fun to do. They spread everything out and weigh 'a lot' which is an understatement.
Man I am going to have so much fun doing 60ft to 100ft launches in Canada (its closer than Mexico) setting up my car this summer. I have an idea of where I will start with the rear end of the 68. I'll need to get it scaled, the guys at the gravel pit like me, so I'll haul it over there and see how heavy the front and rear are. This is going to be a ton of fun.
Cool story and thank-you for your time in the USAF! Keep me posted... 68 what? Thanks for commenting! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC 68 LeMans, currently it has a 461 Pontiac in it. Somewhat largish flat solid, Edelbrock heads, 3.42 gears, and its lightened extensively. I dropped more than 800lbs off the car when I built it. I plan to take it to the no name nationals this fall and run other youtubers. It might not have the 461 in it at that point, but I want to make it hook on gravel. lol