Threaded rod is available commonly in a coarser thread. That's what I used. A lot of the parts Shopnotes uses are overkill. If you can't find the big lock nuts, you can use a regular nut with some of that blue Loctite thread locking stuff.
@@DonDritothat definitely works, though if you are concerned about having a larger range of travel those doubled nuts would take away around 2 in of movement.
I can not watch anything wood working for 6 months, have an idea for something i want to do, and you ALWAYS come up. Thanks for another great video. Love your work.
great video i just built the same lift 2 weeks ago, used it lots, once trued up have no issue with height adjustment going out. Keep up the helpful videos for the hobby shop woodworkers.
Excellent idea. One point I differ with you on would be locating the hole in the top plate (not the blue insert). Instead of relying on the 3/4" bolt rod to be perfectly plumb and square with the base, I would have lowered the top down to the bottom plate and simply marked the hole through the hole already drilled in the bottom plate.
Здравствуйте Стив ! Случайно наткнулся на ваш видеоролик и просмотрел его с большим удовольствием. Я как раз занимаюсь строительством фрезерного стола, а ваше решение подъема фрезера мне очень понравилось. Попробую повторить у себя. Спасибо ! Иван. Украина.
very nice work. i spent 1200 on my jessem master lift excel table and lift and another 250 on the mitre r slide. took about 3 hours to put it together. love it. has zero bit slippage with the lift lock. digital bit height read out is nice. the table and lift you made although not as nice is still great. love the solid phenolic top as well on jessem. hate dealing with the inserts. always going out of whack. do not like the stand though.may build a nice cabinet like you did with casters.good job.
Thanks for this great video Steve. I purchased the plans from Woodsmith Plans and they are "pretty okay" but your video makes it seem completely doable. I ordered the "specialized" hardware from McMaster-Carr, and the Kreg insert plate from Amazon. I have the clamping block glue up in clamps in the shop now. Really looking forward getting this built and I don't even have a router for it yet. I am making due with a small DeWalt trim router and an old Craftsman router in their tabletop router table, but the way that old Craftsman sounds when I use it, I think I'm gonna need a new one pretty soon, so trying to get out ahead of it. Thanks again for all you do for us Mere Mortals!
I immediately thought the same thing. I would say drill and tap the connecting nut for a 1/4 -20 (the part in the lift) and put a nylon setscrew in it. the screw wont mess up the steel threaded rod but it will lock it in place.
A knob epoxied to the nylon set screw would make it easy to loosen and tighten the "lock" It's a shame I had to read a hundred replies to find the answer I was looking for. Thank you.
Hello! I found this video really helpful and just finished building my own router lift today. I took this plans and consulted the Shop Notes issue and something's not working the way it is supposed to. I made everything as planned but i cannot lower the router from above the table. It has to do with the threaded rod and the lock nuts. It lowers very nicely from above the table but once the router is down, it won't get up because the upper lock nut starts unattaching. (to be continued)
WOW Steve!!! That is one cool build!!! As soon as my left thumb gets better (table saw) that will be done. Been using a table saw for over 25 years and every once in a while, It gets me. I was really tired, still no excuse.
I had a great time building this and I really like the way it works. Cost me about $50 in parts and materials plus the scrap peices of ply I had. Thanks Steve.
Steve--I just started building mine today. The only snag I had was finding the hardware. HD and Lowe's don't carry much of it (the threaded rod, lock nuts, and set screws), and Grainger only supplies them in large quantities. I'm hoping McMaster-Carr will have them! It's a very easy build; I'm looking forward to completing it!
I am in the process of building the same thing. Thanks for this. sometimes watching someone build it is better than just imagining it from the magazine.
Hey, something to consider, the hardware store in my town carries thrust washers on the same aisle where the keep the nuts bolt and other special fasteners, they are 3 or 4 bucks each, and come in many different sizes, a couple of thrust washers on the inside of those lock nuts will make it smoother, and even more precise.
For the person asking about making a better connection between the holding clamp and the router, and to protect the router from wear if you only have one, so take it in/out of the table lift a lot, you could line the clamping section with a generous bead of either Sugru or, as a cheaper alternative some Sikaflex (both easy to google). Normal silicone sealant would work but perish faster than sikaflex. Put some talc on the surface before it dries, to leave a nice non-stick soft touch finish.
This is a great design. easily made it with only a table saw and hand drill. only thing I changed was the set screws. I swapped out the "self tapping" grub screw idea with T-nuts.
I read the Shop Notes article on building a router lift some time ago. But it seemed so complicated. Your video makes the project realistically doable. Thanks Steve for giving me the nerve and confidence to make the attempt. Often seeing a thing done is preferred to just reading about it.
Hello, Steve. I'm impressed with the amount of things you do and the ease with which you run the projects. Too bad that here in Brazil we have nothing to provide us with plans and projects. Congratulations for your work and thanks for the presented real lessons that you give me. Best regards, Alberto Thomaz
Thanks, SadieTXClaus, I've made my own table, although I have no experience in woodcrafts at all... it has kind of worked quite well... Thanks again for your tips... Regards from Brazil.
really needs to be hardwood for the runners. pine will not hold up under the pressure to keep it level. I used plain old 2x4 for the main supports and oak ply for the carrier. worked perfect.
Well done sir. I see you did a good thing when making your router body clamp. That is that you left openings for the cooling of the router body. I don't know if you planned that or not but it is a good thing. If you had cut a nice round opening for the router it would run hotter and that is not good.
Hey Steve someone had posted to you asking why did you make the runners on the drawers so big. I was looking and have point of my own. If the drawer is not full and the contents are below the runner you can store other items on a slide out drawer on top of the runners. Ron
Steve This project was just released in the Woodsmith Tools and Jigs magazine. The shop notes magazine as a pain to find, this is in the stores now. Planning to build and add to the shop. Thanks for all your videos and work you do to show us woodworking should be fun to do. Keep the ideas coming!!!!
The Kreg plate is really worth the investment. So easy to set up and so accurate. I haven't run a lot of tests on the table yet, but on first impression it looks pretty dead on.
I contacted Shop Notes and though issue 121 of the magazine is no longer available, they are selling a downloadable version of the Router Lift Plans. The plans are pretty clear and include a parts list and source for the parts.
I am in the process of setting up a router table and faced the same problem of a router lift that wont break the bank. I came up with the idea of using a scissor jack with a block pad on top to protect the router housing. I have since found this is not a new idea, others on the tube with the same setup. Yours is a nice looking setup though. Good job.
I have just finished my lift and was really impressed by the design. I have found some 3/4" phenolic material from a local bathroom partition supplier that I plan to use as my table saw side table/router table. I found an anodized aluminum router plate on sale at Rockler but the more I look at it, the more I question whether I need the plate at all. My question is this: Is there a need for the plate? Couldn't I just rout out for the circular ring inserts and mount to the phenolic? Your thoughts?
Steve - Thanks for this video! I’ve been wanting to make this for years and finally did this month with my extra shop time from the pandemic. 😃 It was a challenging build for me but I’m happy with the results. I’m looking forward to using this. I appreciate all of your awesome tips. 👍🏼
So I watched this video several times before attempting to make the router lift. I ended up making some piece a couple of times to fit properly. I tweaked it in two places. First with the V-grooves. After cutting the V and the V-grooves, I expoxied a couple of pieces of 1/8" x 1" x 90 degree aluminum angle so that it wasn't wood-on-wood sliding, but metal on metal, ... less wear over the long run. For my second tweak, I found that the 3/4" lock nut on the top side of the assembly eventually didn't want to hold because the weight of the router and assembly put pressure on the nut, and it eventually lost its "locking" ability, ... this resulted in the top nut actually threading itself up the threaded rod, defeating the operation of the lift. To stop this, I drilled a 1/8" hole through the nut and the threaded rod. My intention was to follow that up with putting a pin into the hole which would stop the nut from threading up the rod. As it turned out, when my drill bit punched through the far side of the hole, the bit snapped off inside the hole, ... so i had the pin already in place, via the broken drill bit. After everything was done (about 6 hours of tinkering) the lift worked pretty well.
Depending on where you live, you hopefully still have a very well stocked, old-fashioned hardware store. That's the kind of place to seek what you're looking for. Even cheaper is to go to a local steel yard that sells retail too; they sell steel angles and tubes that contractors use, in addition to "all-thread" (threaded rod).
Shop Notes is always a good magazine for good jigs and plans. For wood you don't really need to back up and forward I think you run some risk of ruining your threads, usually people think like that cuz you do that with metal. With hard maple your prolly okay but if it was pine I think you would have problems. Kinda going off of The Wood Whisperer's video too. Great video you do awesome work for a mere mortal.
Hi Steve, I left a comment on your 2 Mar 2012 Vid asking about the next stage and how I couldn't find it, sorry about this but I have just found it. Thanks for your brilliant vids, I wish you had step by step plans to help me build this Excellent Project when I'm in my workshop and away from my PC
What vibrates? The whole thing? The way it's mounted to the table? There might be several reasons for it. A router is a fairly vibration free machine--else it would throw itself apart. Check the mounting points--if they aren't secure, vibrations might be induced. I'm inclined to say that yes, thicker material might fix it, but isn't always the case.
At the hardware store...in the nuts and bolts area. I got mine too long and had to cut it down. Helps to have a store with employees that know their business!
WOW! I'm a newer fan of yours and I haven't seen your older videos, but I have to say man, you age like fine wine! How did you manage to get better looking with age? It's a really big difference man, kudos
I have an old router on a metal table which works fine but getting the height prefect involves several up and down adjustments so I have been thinking about a lift for some time. This is very frustrating so I think your design will be my next project.
Very nice design. One possible improvement I can think of; if you know the threads per inch of your threaded rod, you could make a couple of gears based off of that ratio to give yourself precise control of the height difference. Then it's simply a matter of mounting one gear on the threaded rod, putting the other at a 90 degree angle in the cabinet with a shaft to a crank on the front, and mounting it in the cabinet with a bearing. In addition to giving you more precise control of the height change, this would allow you to alter the dept of your cut during operation.
steve, i think i commented on this project back when it came out, but i just watched again since i'm bored, and just had to complement you again. I gotta say it, you, matthias, and ron walters have youtube ON F'N LOCK.
This video, combined with your router table video, are first on my list of shop projects to build. I've been wanting a router table for a very long time, but cant afford a nice one, and the ones i CAN afford are junk. Yours looked great,and i love the funtionality of it, especially as you showed you can use it as a jointer as well. Thanks for the fun videos. Keep it up!!
Perfect Video for me! I received my Millwaukee 5616 and I'm not ready to lay out $500 for a router table. Although the lifts can get pretty technical, this one will be the route I take... All pun intended. lol Thanks for getting me in the game. Subscribed!
I bought the plans from Woodsmith and watched their build video. They credited you with a great build video too. I think I am readyto start the process now. Thanks.
you should make a puzzle box. Im actually trying it out for the first time. Im going to have the outside be oak and have pine specks on the outside. (dowels holding it altogeather) I would like to see how you would do a puzzle box.
Heard your comment that router is the second most important tool in woodworking, so I finally built up my mind to buy a router yessterday after dinner from HF. After I took it back and made a micky mouse router table, simply drill a 1-1/2" hole for the router bit. Then I found it is really difficult to adjust the depth of the cut not to mention to adjust it from beneath the table. So I got frustrated and decided to return it in the morning. Then I searched You Tube and found your instruction as to how to make a router lift. God, it is more complicated than I could ever imagine. This further firmed my decision to return it. As I layed in bed, and suddenly I had an idea to put a screw car jack beneath the router, and got excited and could not sleep. I excuted my idea today, I found with fnger twising the jack, I can micro adjust up and down of the depth. I further added some firm hold of the jack and to the router, it worked BEAUFIFULLY. Now I just hope I would not get a flat tire.
First and foremost, GREAT video! Thank you Steve :-) So, I'm in the process of building this too, and I thought I''d share a few tips and tricks I've come across thus far. 1. The only coupling nuts I was able to find all have a stop in the center - I simply drilled it out and it worked like a charm. 2. Instead of making the clamp with that fancy hex pattern, which I found challenging without a band or scroll saw and it being 2-1/4 inch thick, was using a 3-1/2 inch hole saw - thank goodness my PC 690 was exactly 3-1/2 inches in diameter! Again, this worked like a charm! Also, it seems like the 3-1/2 inch motor diameter is quite common, and only get bigger from there - so if I get a larger router, I'll be set. 3. When drilling the hole into the clamp for the coupling nut, I too rounded my coupling hex body to a circle which essentially made it almost exactly a 1" circle, but I still drilled a 1/8" hole as there was space for epoxy. And lastly, 4. When applying the epoxy and coupling nut into the hole, I filled the holes in the body with some candle wax (which also serves as a lubricant). This was primarily because the coupling nut had 3 holes in it (2 were guide holes to ensure that your rod reached the stopper on each end, and the 3rd was the hole I drilled out to get rid of the stopper). I hope this helps - Carrie
Great video Steve, Looking forward to seeing you make some projects with it now, And to see the height adjustment at work. As always thanks Steve, You're awesome!
Ребенок кричал папа выключи звук...и я даже без звука по твоим пальцам все понял...ты гений и хороший учитель....и думаю глухонемые тоже тебе благодарны ))
Recently I replaced the metal runner in my cheap bandsaw mitre gauge with a 6mm strip of Kwila. I had to put two small machine screws into the hardwood, and just screwed them straight into holes 0.5mm smaller than the OD of the screw threads. This worked absolutely perfectly. And I would think that if you drill into any hardwood the same diameter as the shaft of the machine screw you want to use, it should just zip right on in there, without creating a thread beforehand. My reasoning for not tapping it was that I wanted the screws to be tight, and they will never be loosened again. Plus of course, I'm lazy as hell, and couldn't be bothered. :P
This is so well made bro.. Love the look of ur router table as well.. I'm buying the parts to try and build my own as well.. Brilliant job my friend.. I can only hope and pray my table turns out 50% as good as ur one.. I'll be happy with that for now.. I was looking at the Router Raizer mechanism but it's very hard to get them bcos nobody has them atm.. I'm going to take a look at that site u spoke of..
Yeah, I found it in -10 thread at HD and Lowe's, but I wanted the finer adjustment capability. I did find everything I needed from McMaster-Carr this morning. Game on!
I gotta say, I enjoyed the video. I've been debating with myself if I should build one and I think I will. Thanks for mentioning where I can get the measurements. As it happened, I already had the DVD that had the Shop Notes on it. Honestly, If I hadn't your video, i probably wouldn't have built this one.
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Threaded rod is available commonly in a coarser thread. That's what I used. A lot of the parts Shopnotes uses are overkill. If you can't find the big lock nuts, you can use a regular nut with some of that blue Loctite thread locking stuff.
Or use two regular nuts on each side and tighten them against each other to lock them.
@@DonDritothat definitely works, though if you are concerned about having a larger range of travel those doubled nuts would take away around 2 in of movement.
I watched this video at the start of the first lockdown in the UK, sometime in April '20 - I've learnt so much since - thank you Steve!
I can not watch anything wood working for 6 months, have an idea for something i want to do, and you ALWAYS come up. Thanks for another great video. Love your work.
great video i just built the same lift 2 weeks ago, used it lots, once trued up have no issue with height adjustment going out. Keep up the helpful videos for the hobby shop woodworkers.
Excellent idea. One point I differ with you on would be locating the hole in the top plate (not the blue insert). Instead of relying on the 3/4" bolt rod to be perfectly plumb and square with the base, I would have lowered the top down to the bottom plate and simply marked the hole through the hole already drilled in the bottom plate.
My... goodness! The presentation skills!! So natural, so informative... and that seven years ago. You were already on top of the game!
You do such a good job explaining how to do woodworking for dummies. And I enjoy watching you.
Здравствуйте Стив ! Случайно наткнулся на ваш видеоролик и просмотрел его с большим удовольствием. Я как раз занимаюсь строительством фрезерного стола, а ваше решение подъема фрезера мне очень понравилось. Попробую повторить у себя. Спасибо ! Иван. Украина.
one of the better and easiest router lifts i have seen all week of searching, thx....it shows you video is never too old to assist
The whole router table, cabinet, and lift are really great. Awesome skill. Pretty advanced, for me at least.
very nice work. i spent 1200 on my jessem master lift excel table and lift and another 250 on the mitre r slide. took about 3 hours to put it together. love it. has zero bit slippage with the lift lock. digital bit height read out is nice. the table and lift you made although not as nice is still great. love the solid phenolic top as well on jessem. hate dealing with the inserts. always going out of whack. do not like the stand though.may build a nice cabinet like you did with casters.good job.
Thanks for this great video Steve. I purchased the plans from Woodsmith Plans and they are "pretty okay" but your video makes it seem completely doable. I ordered the "specialized" hardware from McMaster-Carr, and the Kreg insert plate from Amazon. I have the clamping block glue up in clamps in the shop now. Really looking forward getting this built and I don't even have a router for it yet. I am making due with a small DeWalt trim router and an old Craftsman router in their tabletop router table, but the way that old Craftsman sounds when I use it, I think I'm gonna need a new one pretty soon, so trying to get out ahead of it. Thanks again for all you do for us Mere Mortals!
Gracias. Definitivamente ver el domingo, 1 de abril. En caso de ser divertido!
Diggin these old videos!
I immediately thought the same thing. I would say drill and tap the connecting nut for a 1/4 -20 (the part in the lift) and put a nylon setscrew in it. the screw wont mess up the steel threaded rod but it will lock it in place.
A knob epoxied to the nylon set screw would make it easy to loosen and tighten the "lock" It's a shame I had to read a hundred replies to find the answer I was looking for. Thank you.
Nice video. You are very clear and precise. I am not sure if I would tackle this project, but it has some neat tricks/techniques involved.
Hello!
I found this video really helpful and just finished building my own router lift today. I took this plans and consulted the Shop Notes issue and something's not working the way it is supposed to. I made everything as planned but i cannot lower the router from above the table. It has to do with the threaded rod and the lock nuts. It lowers very nicely from above the table but once the router is down, it won't get up because the upper lock nut starts unattaching. (to be continued)
WOW Steve!!! That is one cool build!!! As soon as my left thumb gets better (table saw) that will be done. Been using a table saw for over 25 years and every once in a while, It gets me. I was really tired, still no excuse.
+Lee Haire Keep your thumb in a vice !
I had a great time building this and I really like the way it works. Cost me about $50 in parts and materials plus the scrap peices of ply I had. Thanks Steve.
Steve--I just started building mine today. The only snag I had was finding the hardware. HD and Lowe's don't carry much of it (the threaded rod, lock nuts, and set screws), and Grainger only supplies them in large quantities. I'm hoping McMaster-Carr will have them! It's a very easy build; I'm looking forward to completing it!
I am in the process of building the same thing. Thanks for this. sometimes watching someone build it is better than just imagining it from the magazine.
Hey, something to consider, the hardware store in my town carries thrust washers on the same aisle where the keep the nuts bolt and other special fasteners, they are 3 or 4 bucks each, and come in many different sizes, a couple of thrust washers on the inside of those lock nuts will make it smoother, and even more precise.
Good one.
For the person asking about making a better connection between the holding clamp and the router, and to protect the router from wear if you only have one, so take it in/out of the table lift a lot, you could line the clamping section with a generous bead of either Sugru or, as a cheaper alternative some Sikaflex (both easy to google). Normal silicone sealant would work but perish faster than sikaflex. Put some talc on the surface before it dries, to leave a nice non-stick soft touch finish.
This is a great design. easily made it with only a table saw and hand drill.
only thing I changed was the set screws. I swapped out the "self tapping" grub screw idea with T-nuts.
I read the Shop Notes article on building a router lift some time ago. But it seemed so complicated. Your video makes the project realistically doable. Thanks Steve for giving me the nerve and confidence to make the attempt. Often seeing a thing done is preferred to just reading about it.
Great video. You are quickly becoming one of my favorite spots for workshop videos. Keep up the great work.
Hello, Steve. I'm impressed with the amount of things you do and the ease with which you run the projects. Too bad that here in Brazil we have nothing to provide us with plans and projects. Congratulations for your work and thanks for the presented real lessons that you give me.
Best regards, Alberto Thomaz
Thanks, SadieTXClaus, I've made my own table, although I have no experience in woodcrafts at all... it has kind of worked quite well... Thanks again for your tips... Regards from Brazil.
really needs to be hardwood for the runners. pine will not hold up under the pressure to keep it level.
I used plain old 2x4 for the main supports and oak ply for the carrier. worked perfect.
Well done sir. I see you did a good thing when making your router body clamp. That is that you left openings for the cooling of the router body. I don't know if you planned that or not but it is a good thing. If you had cut a nice round opening for the router it would run hotter and that is not good.
Hey Steve someone had posted to you asking why did you make the runners on the drawers so big. I was looking and have point of my own. If the drawer is not full and the contents are below the runner you can store other items on a slide out drawer on top of the runners.
Ron
you sir are a master, I was just looking at router lifts and was blown away at the prices! thanks for the awesome video
Steve
This project was just released in the Woodsmith Tools and Jigs magazine. The shop notes magazine as a pain to find, this is in the stores now. Planning to build and add to the shop. Thanks for all your videos and work you do to show us woodworking should be fun to do. Keep the ideas coming!!!!
The Kreg plate is really worth the investment. So easy to set up and so accurate. I haven't run a lot of tests on the table yet, but on first impression it looks pretty dead on.
I contacted Shop Notes and though issue 121 of the magazine is no longer available, they are selling a downloadable version of the Router Lift Plans. The plans are pretty clear and include a parts list and source for the parts.
I really enjoy your videos Steve. You are very encouraging to beginner woodworkers like me.
I am in the process of setting up a router table and faced the same problem of a router lift that wont break the bank. I came up with the idea of using a scissor jack with a block pad on top to protect the router housing. I have since found this is not a new idea, others on the tube with the same setup. Yours is a nice looking setup though. Good job.
I have just finished my lift and was really impressed by the design. I have found some 3/4" phenolic material from a local bathroom partition supplier that I plan to use as my table saw side table/router table. I found an anodized aluminum router plate on sale at Rockler but the more I look at it, the more I question whether I need the plate at all. My question is this: Is there a need for the plate? Couldn't I just rout out for the circular ring inserts and mount to the phenolic? Your thoughts?
Oi Steve, ficou tudo perfeito, mas acho que na mesa merecia um acabamento nas bordas. Parabéns, Ótimo trabalho. Te vejo no outro domingo!
Steve - Thanks for this video! I’ve been wanting to make this for years and finally did this month with my extra shop time from the pandemic. 😃 It was a challenging build for me but I’m happy with the results. I’m looking forward to using this. I appreciate all of your awesome tips. 👍🏼
This is perfect! This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! (You even have the same router model that I have!) THANKS!
I bought the plans and plan to build this real soon. Thanks for the video.
So I watched this video several times before attempting to make the router lift. I ended up making some piece a couple of times to fit properly. I tweaked it in two places. First with the V-grooves. After cutting the V and the V-grooves, I expoxied a couple of pieces of 1/8" x 1" x 90 degree aluminum angle so that it wasn't wood-on-wood sliding, but metal on metal, ... less wear over the long run. For my second tweak, I found that the 3/4" lock nut on the top side of the assembly eventually didn't want to hold because the weight of the router and assembly put pressure on the nut, and it eventually lost its "locking" ability, ... this resulted in the top nut actually threading itself up the threaded rod, defeating the operation of the lift. To stop this, I drilled a 1/8" hole through the nut and the threaded rod. My intention was to follow that up with putting a pin into the hole which would stop the nut from threading up the rod. As it turned out, when my drill bit punched through the far side of the hole, the bit snapped off inside the hole, ... so i had the pin already in place, via the broken drill bit. After everything was done (about 6 hours of tinkering) the lift worked pretty well.
The side braces fine-tune just to allow the router to run smoothly up an down. It's a good design, because it allows for any imperfections.
love this design for the lift. simple but very sturdy and functional.
Depending on where you live, you hopefully still have a very well stocked, old-fashioned hardware store. That's the kind of place to seek what you're looking for. Even cheaper is to go to a local steel yard that sells retail too; they sell steel angles and tubes that contractors use, in addition to "all-thread" (threaded rod).
Definitely!
The custom set screws would work better than my 1/2NC13 tap, I believe, which gave somewhat loose threads. So glad you posted this, Steve. Thank you.
Congratulations! Thank you very much. Regards from Greece.
Shop Notes is always a good magazine for good jigs and plans. For wood you don't really need to back up and forward I think you run some risk of ruining your threads, usually people think like that cuz you do that with metal. With hard maple your prolly okay but if it was pine I think you would have problems. Kinda going off of The Wood Whisperer's video too. Great video you do awesome work for a mere mortal.
You're welcome. I'm looking forward to getting back to smaller projects.
Hi Steve, I left a comment on your 2 Mar 2012 Vid asking about the next stage and how I couldn't find it, sorry about this but I have just found it. Thanks for your brilliant vids, I wish you had step by step plans to help me build this Excellent Project when I'm in my workshop and away from my PC
best lift build i have seen on youtube
Dobrá inspirace takový výtah si musim taky vyrobit.Díky za perfektní nápad
What vibrates? The whole thing? The way it's mounted to the table? There might be several reasons for it. A router is a fairly vibration free machine--else it would throw itself apart. Check the mounting points--if they aren't secure, vibrations might be induced. I'm inclined to say that yes, thicker material might fix it, but isn't always the case.
At the hardware store...in the nuts and bolts area. I got mine too long and had to cut it down. Helps to have a store with employees that know their business!
It has only taken me 5 years to find you Video and thanks for doing it because I think I will do something similar - you did it well!!! regards Mike
WOW! I'm a newer fan of yours and I haven't seen your older videos, but I have to say man, you age like fine wine! How did you manage to get better looking with age? It's a really big difference man, kudos
I have an old router on a metal table which works fine but getting the height prefect involves several up and down adjustments so I have been thinking about a lift for some time. This is very frustrating so I think your design will be my next project.
Nice Tutorial. Something I can easily undertand. Thank you!
Very nice design. One possible improvement I can think of; if you know the threads per inch of your threaded rod, you could make a couple of gears based off of that ratio to give yourself precise control of the height difference. Then it's simply a matter of mounting one gear on the threaded rod, putting the other at a 90 degree angle in the cabinet with a shaft to a crank on the front, and mounting it in the cabinet with a bearing. In addition to giving you more precise control of the height change, this would allow you to alter the dept of your cut during operation.
Matthias Wandel's design is basically what you're describing with the gears
Cancún! Deseo que tu sol ahora mismo!
steve, i think i commented on this project back when it came out, but i just watched again since i'm bored, and just had to complement you again. I gotta say it, you, matthias, and ron walters have youtube ON F'N LOCK.
Cool idea.
Can't wait to get started on this. Very cool, Steve.
you could use a mechanic speed wrench instead of the ratchet for lowering/raising the lift. it looks like a crank shaft or the ole brace and bit.
This video, combined with your router table video, are first on my list of shop projects to build. I've been wanting a router table for a very long time, but cant afford a nice one, and the ones i CAN afford are junk. Yours looked great,and i love the funtionality of it, especially as you showed you can use it as a jointer as well. Thanks for the fun videos. Keep it up!!
Perfect Video for me! I received my Millwaukee 5616 and I'm not ready to lay out $500 for a router table. Although the lifts can get pretty technical, this one will be the route I take... All pun intended. lol Thanks for getting me in the game. Subscribed!
Great contraption and will last forever. Thanks for the video.
Great Work, really liked the lift and the table top. much better than buying a pre-manufactured Router Table.
Very very exellent handwork!
I bought the plans from Woodsmith and watched their build video. They credited you with a great build video too. I think I am readyto start the process now. Thanks.
Waaaooo!!! Eres lo maximo, tienes buenas ideas sigo aprendiendo de usted maestro... William de PR
Excellent video Mr. Ramsey, a real pleasure to watch it and learn to do things. Thanks!
Great video. My friend bought one of the expensive ones. I still have to reach underneath. Well worth the effort.
you should make a puzzle box. Im actually trying it out for the first time. Im going to have the outside be oak and have pine specks on the outside. (dowels holding it altogeather) I would like to see how you would do a puzzle box.
Heard your comment that router is the second most important tool in woodworking, so I finally built up my mind to buy a router yessterday after dinner from HF. After I took it back and made a micky mouse router table, simply drill a 1-1/2" hole for the router bit. Then I found it is really difficult to adjust the depth of the cut not to mention to adjust it from beneath the table. So I got frustrated and decided to return it in the morning. Then I searched You Tube and found your instruction as to how to make a router lift. God, it is more complicated than I could ever imagine. This further firmed my decision to return it. As I layed in bed, and suddenly I had an idea to put a screw car jack beneath the router, and got excited and could not sleep. I excuted my idea today, I found with fnger twising the jack, I can micro adjust up and down of the depth. I further added some firm hold of the jack and to the router, it worked BEAUFIFULLY. Now I just hope I would not get a flat tire.
Yunghan Ma That is genious!!! i will try this out, thank you!
Lmao @ Flat tire.
Do you have any pictures, or a video of the router lift you designed? I like the idea for sure.
Extraordinario. Simplemente práctico, funcional y viable. Felicitaciones de todo corazón
First and foremost, GREAT video! Thank you Steve :-) So, I'm in the process of building this too, and I thought I''d share a few tips and tricks I've come across thus far. 1. The only coupling nuts I was able to find all have a stop in the center - I simply drilled it out and it worked like a charm. 2. Instead of making the clamp with that fancy hex pattern, which I found challenging without a band or scroll saw and it being 2-1/4 inch thick, was using a 3-1/2 inch hole saw - thank goodness my PC 690 was exactly 3-1/2 inches in diameter! Again, this worked like a charm! Also, it seems like the 3-1/2 inch motor diameter is quite common, and only get bigger from there - so if I get a larger router, I'll be set. 3. When drilling the hole into the clamp for the coupling nut, I too rounded my coupling hex body to a circle which essentially made it almost exactly a 1" circle, but I still drilled a 1/8" hole as there was space for epoxy. And lastly, 4. When applying the epoxy and coupling nut into the hole, I filled the holes in the body with some candle wax (which also serves as a lubricant). This was primarily because the coupling nut had 3 holes in it (2 were guide holes to ensure that your rod reached the stopper on each end, and the 3rd was the hole I drilled out to get rid of the stopper).
I hope this helps - Carrie
You have pictures friend?
mvmc1607@gmail.com
I do actually - I will add them later :-)
I wonder how you did. hugs
i'm just about to start making one of these for my new router. i'll be using your hole saw idea :)
Sounds fun!
That was great Steve - you have given me the confidence to do the same - regards Mike from Australia
I like many things about this video, but especially your pushing device to cut the V in the runners.
Great video Steve, Looking forward to seeing you make some projects with it now, And to see the height adjustment at work. As always thanks Steve, You're awesome!
Ребенок кричал папа выключи звук...и я даже без звука по твоим пальцам все понял...ты гений и хороший учитель....и думаю глухонемые тоже тебе благодарны ))
Loving all your videos, you explain things so clearly and make it fun to watch.
Recently I replaced the metal runner in my cheap bandsaw mitre gauge with a 6mm strip of Kwila. I had to put two small machine screws into the hardwood, and just screwed them straight into holes 0.5mm smaller than the OD of the screw threads. This worked absolutely perfectly. And I would think that if you drill into any hardwood the same diameter as the shaft of the machine screw you want to use, it should just zip right on in there, without creating a thread beforehand. My reasoning for not tapping it was that I wanted the screws to be tight, and they will never be loosened again. Plus of course, I'm lazy as hell, and couldn't be bothered. :P
Congratulations for always giving accurate informations . Well done
wonderful to watch, Router lift, made it look so simple, thank you
This is so well made bro.. Love the look of ur router table as well.. I'm buying the parts to try and build my own as well.. Brilliant job my friend.. I can only hope and pray my table turns out 50% as good as ur one.. I'll be happy with that for now..
I was looking at the Router Raizer mechanism but it's very hard to get them bcos nobody has them atm.. I'm going to take a look at that site u spoke of..
hello from brazil and thanks for all this ideas...
Yeah, I found it in -10 thread at HD and Lowe's, but I wanted the finer adjustment capability. I did find everything I needed from McMaster-Carr this morning. Game on!
more powa to you if it gets the job done. I thought about building one, but I think im gonna wait it out so I can pick up a more precise lift.
Brilliant job! Functional and looks good too!
Steve - Nice job with this project. Great video. Very professional and clearly done. Thanks!
Steve, should I cut the circle on the top plate according to my router body's diameter? Or it may be smaller, just for the tip? Regards from Brazil
спасибо!
I gotta say, I enjoyed the video. I've been debating with myself if I should build one and I think I will. Thanks for mentioning where I can get the measurements. As it happened, I already had the DVD that had the Shop Notes on it. Honestly, If I hadn't your video, i probably wouldn't have built this one.
very interesting way of grinding the nut into the actual threaded rod most people would have welded a nut to the rod, but I like your unique method
Steve i enjoy ever bit of your tutorial...keep it up man.....