ULTIMAKER 5S. I used your instructions on my UM5s to disassemble and reassemble the printer head after a massive Nylon blob. Worked perfectly. Also the wiring is exactly the same. Thanks for a brillant piece of instruction.
Erin, THANK YOU for this video!! I had a failed print that managed to seep melted plastic all up around the print core and the gantry, making removal of the #1 print core impossible. The gantry was easy to take apart, but not so easy to put back together :) Only took about 4-1/2 hours with a heat gun to pull out the PETG, then re-insert the heat cartridge wires into the back of the print core & follow your video to get the gantry back together. Printing once again...
Super helpful. Had a problem where the extruder spring had forced its way out. This allowed me to take the assembly apart and put it back together nice and quickly.
Same story as Randy here... had a PETG blob that pulled out the wires in the back of the printcore, it was totally stuck so i had to remove all to be able to use a heat gun... Also took me several houres... This video helped a lot ! Thanks !
Thank you for such a wonderul tutorial. But i still hate this printer. I'm not only pushing my company to change to a new one, but I wish we never had it to begin with
Great video. I have the same problem as Randy and Cece. I am wondering if either noticed a damaged silicon nozzle cover being the reason that the melted filament was able to backup into the print core?
Hey, there is a PCB in the print core, the tiny one and it has some connector. These connector hold the heater and temp. sensor wires. Does anybody know what these connectors are called?
I took the Print Cores out prior to disassembling the printhead--they are designed to come in and out very easily. Are you having any issues removing the Print Cores?
Hey, thanks for the videos, I do have a problem with the S5. I got the bb nozzle clogged and I have managed to clean it and re installed, after rewiring one of the sensor contact cable, but the problem is the spring mechanism of the switch, it came off and now I suppose I have mounted it wrongly, so there’s an offset between the two nozzles. Can you help, do you have a picture or instructions on how to remount it? Thanks @@fbrc8
@@manueledellapina8550 reassembling the spring mechanism for the lifting switch is covered in this video. But one thing to remember is there should always be an offset between these two nozzles--it's designed that way. The left hand nozzle never moves up or down. The right hand nozzle moves 3mm up and down with the switch so it is always offset from the left one by 1.5mm so that your inactive nozzle doesn't drag across the print.
Hi there! I have written instructions for that process here: fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001899871-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors- At this time, I don't have a video available for it.
The procedure is very similar for the Ultimaker S3 and Ultimaker S5. The connector for the printhead is on the back of the PCB rather than the front as it is on the Ultimaker 3, but otherwise the process is pretty much identical. Your cable cover will slide off vertically rather than horizontally as well after you remove those first 2 screws.
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This should be shown at classes teaching people how to make instructional videos. Amazingly clear and helpful! THANK YOU, Erin!!
Thank you, Jeff!
ULTIMAKER 5S. I used your instructions on my UM5s to disassemble and reassemble the printer head after a massive Nylon blob. Worked perfectly. Also the wiring is exactly the same. Thanks for a brillant piece of instruction.
I'm glad we could help!
Erin, THANK YOU for this video!! I had a failed print that managed to seep melted plastic all up around the print core and the gantry, making removal of the #1 print core impossible. The gantry was easy to take apart, but not so easy to put back together :) Only took about 4-1/2 hours with a heat gun to pull out the PETG, then re-insert the heat cartridge wires into the back of the print core & follow your video to get the gantry back together. Printing once again...
Glad to help!
Super helpful. Had a problem where the extruder spring had forced its way out. This allowed me to take the assembly apart and put it back together nice and quickly.
Same story as Randy here... had a PETG blob that pulled out the wires in the back of the printcore, it was totally stuck so i had to remove all to be able to use a heat gun... Also took me several houres... This video helped a lot ! Thanks !
I'm glad it helped!
Great video! You're are very good teacher.
Thank you so much for this video ! Got the same problem of melted plastic all around the printcore
Glad it helped!
just ordered a hotend from ya for my Ultimaker original. can't wait to get it up and running again!
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo. Sans elle, je n'aurai pas réussi à remonter la tête d'impression. Thanks a lot.
Oh my god... I cannot thank you enough!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for such a wonderul tutorial. But i still hate this printer. I'm not only pushing my company to change to a new one, but I wish we never had it to begin with
Thanks for that very clear
thank you very much for the explanation =)
beatifuly done . thank you so much
Glad to help!
thank you for your video! helped me a lot !!!
you saved my day, many thanks ;-)
Glad to help!
Great video. I have the same problem as Randy and Cece. I am wondering if either noticed a damaged silicon nozzle cover being the reason that the melted filament was able to backup into the print core?
Hey, there is a PCB in the print core, the tiny one and it has some connector. These connector hold the heater and temp. sensor wires. Does anybody know what these connectors are called?
❤
I still wonder why your printhead doesn't have extruders in it. For me with extruders it is whole different story
I took the Print Cores out prior to disassembling the printhead--they are designed to come in and out very easily. Are you having any issues removing the Print Cores?
Hey, thanks for the videos, I do have a problem with the S5. I got the bb nozzle clogged and I have managed to clean it and re installed, after rewiring one of the sensor contact cable, but the problem is the spring mechanism of the switch, it came off and now I suppose I have mounted it wrongly, so there’s an offset between the two nozzles. Can you help, do you have a picture or instructions on how to remount it? Thanks @@fbrc8
@@manueledellapina8550 reassembling the spring mechanism for the lifting switch is covered in this video. But one thing to remember is there should always be an offset between these two nozzles--it's designed that way. The left hand nozzle never moves up or down. The right hand nozzle moves 3mm up and down with the switch so it is always offset from the left one by 1.5mm so that your inactive nozzle doesn't drag across the print.
How do you replace the belts in an Ultimaker 3, the clamp blocks failed on one side.
Hi there! I have written instructions for that process here: fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001899871-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors-
At this time, I don't have a video available for it.
Is it the same procedure with the S3?
The procedure is very similar for the Ultimaker S3 and Ultimaker S5. The connector for the printhead is on the back of the PCB rather than the front as it is on the Ultimaker 3, but otherwise the process is pretty much identical. Your cable cover will slide off vertically rather than horizontally as well after you remove those first 2 screws.