A shop I partner with on some jobs has a set of those Vevor rollers and honestly they flog the hell out of them welding base plates on columns with no issues. The things just work, their solution for heat creep melting the rollers, is a 5 gallon metal pan filled with water and a submersible parts washer pump. They just slide the pan under the part being welded and let a trickle of water run on the part and drip back into the pan, works surprisingly well. In my shop I have a small rotary table top rig like yours, but maybe half its size and a 16 x 60" welding lathe, both of which I built. Both took about four times the amount of thought and effort to build than I first estimated. The lathe I have had 25 years and it's still not "finished" lol. So ya, sometimes the best "design" is a credit card.
Hello Kyle great review! If I could I would like to recommend some things to help with your welding. Two things, first is grind your starts and tacks. The tacks being ground will help with even penetration. You will still need to slow down slightly over them so they consume correctly but the grinding helps over all. Grinding your starts just needs a little bit of the final end of the previous weld knocked off. This will help penetration on the intial few moments of arcing getting a better penetrating start. The puddle will flow easier into the rest of the weld as well while reducing undercut in that initial area. You can also stagger start to improve strength of the part overall. If it is small and doesnt matter strength wise I wouldnt worry. But higher strength stuff moving your starts is imperative. Hope this helps a bit! Great video!!!
Love the CCE shout out as well, and good on you for not wanting to be a certain machinist from Florida whose considerable skills have been undercut by his current pitch man status.
It started slowly, perhaps with AnchorLube, then the fancy watch showed up, a few CRC pitches later and bam (!) new air compressor, PM lathe, jib crane, CNC, FireBall vice, SkyHook, etc.Hard to separate the chaff from the grain these days. Back when it was Adam on his father’s and grandfather’s tooling, it was pure and honest machining with great content. These days ? Dude isn’t subtle and gets a hard pass from folks like me. The RUclips algorithm is a tough mistress, just ask Wes Johnson, but infomercials are not the right way to play the game (IMO). Meanwhile, the Kyles, Keiths, and Curtises soldier on 🙌
Kyle, you mentioned you were doing spray transfer, Axial Spray Transfer needs an argon rich gas mix, minimum 80%... with straight CO2, you are in globular transfer, the crackling and spatter you are getting is evidence of that, with Spray you will have a wooshing sounds and virtually no spatter.....try using 92/8 ar-CO2, with that you can also do short circuit, globular and spray. or go to 95/5 ar-CO2 for spray, if you are really wanting to put some heat into the material, a 95/5 ar-O2 will be the gas you need.....there is a major difference in spray and globular.......the tip of the wire will be a sharp point when in spray when you stop, with globular and short circuit, it will most likely have a ball on end...... I hope this helps, Paul
Thanks Paul. To be honest my technical knowledge of terms need some working on. No formal education in Welding except for one class at a community college about 10 years ago. I’ve spent 20 years welding, but I can just weld where I have experience. This is a new form of Welding , even though it’s very similar to all my other styles. There are subtle differences which I still have to learn.
Also, I am somewhat limited on gas styles. Maybe that’s why I’m in this predicament. I really wanted the 98/2 but they didn’t sell that at my local gas supply and they also didn’t have 95/5. But basically they sold me in a huge tank of CO2 and said this will work. So that’s what I have. Maybe what I mean to say is that I’m trying to do dual shield not spray transfer. I definitely get the two confused. Very different at the end of the day. It is still welding and it is gonna work just the terminology and the exact Details need fine-tuning.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair 100% co2 is the hottest of the mixes. It's pretty much just for short-circuit and globular transfer on the high end. Lots of crackling and sparks. To do spray most wire mfgs suggest trimix but 92/8, 95/5, and even trimix (but different than the tri-mix we're discussing for spray). The big problem is so many people use terms loosely to the point they are so vague they are useless, meaningless, and confusing. A 'trimix' could be anything from short circuit stainless mix, or a spray transfer with helium mix. Hell dualmix has the same problem, where it could be 95% argon, 5% co2 for just normal welding, or be OXYGEN instead of co2 for flat welding at high deposition rates. Specificity is the best way to get around that kind of confusion, and unfortunately as you delve into trying to find out this information, so many people have only ever been exposed to ONE type, for their specific niche they spent their whole life working on, where 'duh trimix is for stainless!' because that's the only trimix they have ever been exposed too, and incorrectly assume it's the same everywhere, instead of just their niche. No one would blame you for being confused. Just take it slow, things will eventually 'click' for ya. For that I am certain of a man of your intellect, experience, and curiosity, there is no other alternative.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Learn before you Burn. You obviously have no idea what a 95 - 5 or similar gas is or you wouldn't be using 100% Co2 as a substitute. 95-5 is 95% Argon and 5% Co2. Also, Spray Transfer and Dual shield are to very different processes. Making a video with no knowledge of the processes is ignorant.
On welding helmets depends on whether you want PAPR or not. Without Lincoln Electric have their 3350 series, with a big clear lens (auto darkening but not tinted) fully variable shading). You can get them in PAPR version too, but if you are in and out of the helmet doing set ups and tacking the PAPR makes it slow. Speed glass has a huge picture window on their helmet for when the helmet is open and offers good visabiltiy when you are tacking and setting up so a better option with PAPR than the Lincoln with PAPR. The Lincoln is also triggered to darken with high frequency start on TIG too, not sure about the 3M. The Lincoln PAPR battery lasts about 8 hours, and makes welding on hot humid days a delight. Hope that helps. Dennis
a lot off people struggle with rotary welding at the start mate, torch angle matters a whole lot, but you can put in a "vertical up root" and then just fill out in a neutral or downhand position and build it all up ready for capping. for fillets its better to point your gun against the direction of rotation so you can see the root burning in as you go, or set it at a 45 degree and go straight down on top. i never liked dragging a mig weld as you can miss so much especially with the root run. have fun
I beg to differ, The Vevor uses plain parts you can buy from any hardware store for cheap. The American one uses harder to find parts and often cost significantly more.
This is very interesting. You can definitely buy if not that exact electronics box from vevor, but an entire stand alone vfd kit for well under $100. Surely they will be similar if not the same guts. But for not much more you can really get one that is waaay overkill for the use case. Dont know if that would alleviate any issues.
The one to look for is ISO certifications for overseas products. One company I used to buy from was Grizzly and their equipment was on par with American made products but not as expensive and they're ISO certified. Thank you for the content Kyle.
Be very clear eyed there is plenty of magic ISO and CE tags that are not certified at all. Also ISO even done properly has different levels one in particular is just a warehousing certification and has ZERO to do with the product.
11:43 Some if not many, China made items like this, use very basic electrical and electronic controls. Many of the parts are available at Amazon, or Temu, Alibaba etc. ... this helps them keep prices low, and makes them repairable ..... with some research. :)
That’s interesting. Maybe I’m mistaken. I was trying to get 98/2 but my gas supplier doesn’t sell that he said that hundred percent CO2 would do spray transfer just fine and when I googled it, I seen a few people using it.
What I love about your work is that it has to be 100%+. There is a guy in Australia who has a tool that he uses that you could/can pick out some points that you can add to your set up. Making a Rotary Ground Clamp for Welding | Shop Made Tools CEE ruclips.net/video/bIkHtYWENiA/видео.html
I'm not a welder, I'm a firefighter. Whatever welding helmet you choose, buy one with a filter. For example, Curtis's, but perhaps there are many others. I have also advised this to "Freedom Fabrication", values your health. Greetings from the Netherlands.
I agree with you 100% chinese bootleg everything when l was on big construction sites NO CHINESE tools,shackles ,please nothing we never trust their products but like you said some things like a phone we have no choice bc of cheap labor but l love your honest feedback!
I’ve had some good experience on the tool front, but consistently very poor experience with any fasteners from that zip code (if they use such things). For critical applications with potential risk to property / life, I stick with McMaster / domestic
A shop I partner with on some jobs has a set of those Vevor rollers and honestly they flog the hell out of them welding base plates on columns with no issues. The things just work, their solution for heat creep melting the rollers, is a 5 gallon metal pan filled with water and a submersible parts washer pump. They just slide the pan under the part being welded and let a trickle of water run on the part and drip back into the pan, works surprisingly well.
In my shop I have a small rotary table top rig like yours, but maybe half its size and a 16 x 60" welding lathe, both of which I built. Both took about four times the amount of thought and effort to build than I first estimated. The lathe I have had 25 years and it's still not "finished" lol. So ya, sometimes the best "design" is a credit card.
Yeah true
I bought Vevor Automotive tools and polishing tools and they are great quality.
Hello Kyle great review! If I could I would like to recommend some things to help with your welding. Two things, first is grind your starts and tacks. The tacks being ground will help with even penetration. You will still need to slow down slightly over them so they consume correctly but the grinding helps over all. Grinding your starts just needs a little bit of the final end of the previous weld knocked off. This will help penetration on the intial few moments of arcing getting a better penetrating start. The puddle will flow easier into the rest of the weld as well while reducing undercut in that initial area. You can also stagger start to improve strength of the part overall. If it is small and doesnt matter strength wise I wouldnt worry. But higher strength stuff moving your starts is imperative. Hope this helps a bit! Great video!!!
Awesome thanks for the tips. Appreciate it
Love the CCE shout out as well, and good on you for not wanting to be a certain machinist from Florida whose considerable skills have been undercut by his current pitch man status.
Well said!
who would the certain machinist from Florida be ? Paul in Florida
@@ypaulbrown he’s talking about abom
Hmmm, large fella, bit short on hair, sports a Luminox watch, got his start flogging CRC products…dunno
It started slowly, perhaps with AnchorLube, then the fancy watch showed up, a few CRC pitches later and bam (!) new air compressor, PM lathe, jib crane, CNC, FireBall vice, SkyHook, etc.Hard to separate the chaff from the grain these days. Back when it was Adam on his father’s and grandfather’s tooling, it was pure and honest machining with great content. These days ? Dude isn’t subtle and gets a hard pass from folks like me. The RUclips algorithm is a tough mistress, just ask Wes Johnson, but infomercials are not the right way to play the game (IMO). Meanwhile, the Kyles, Keiths, and Curtises soldier on 🙌
Kyle, you mentioned you were doing spray transfer, Axial Spray Transfer needs an argon rich gas mix, minimum 80%...
with straight CO2, you are in globular transfer, the crackling and spatter you are getting is evidence of that,
with Spray you will have a wooshing sounds and virtually no spatter.....try using 92/8 ar-CO2, with that you can also do short circuit, globular and spray. or go to 95/5 ar-CO2 for spray, if you are really wanting to put some heat into the material,
a 95/5 ar-O2 will be the gas you need.....there is a major difference in spray and globular.......the tip of the wire will be a sharp point when in spray when you stop, with globular and short circuit, it will most likely have a ball on end......
I hope this helps, Paul
Thanks Paul. To be honest my technical knowledge of terms need some working on. No formal education in Welding except for one class at a community college about 10 years ago. I’ve spent 20 years welding, but I can just weld where I have experience. This is a new form of Welding , even though it’s very similar to all my other styles. There are subtle differences which I still have to learn.
Also, I am somewhat limited on gas styles. Maybe that’s why I’m in this predicament. I really wanted the 98/2 but they didn’t sell that at my local gas supply and they also didn’t have 95/5. But basically they sold me in a huge tank of CO2 and said this will work. So that’s what I have. Maybe what I mean to say is that I’m trying to do dual shield not spray transfer. I definitely get the two confused. Very different at the end of the day. It is still welding and it is gonna work just the terminology and the exact Details need fine-tuning.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair 100% co2 is the hottest of the mixes. It's pretty much just for short-circuit and globular transfer on the high end. Lots of crackling and sparks. To do spray most wire mfgs suggest trimix but 92/8, 95/5, and even trimix (but different than the tri-mix we're discussing for spray). The big problem is so many people use terms loosely to the point they are so vague they are useless, meaningless, and confusing. A 'trimix' could be anything from short circuit stainless mix, or a spray transfer with helium mix. Hell dualmix has the same problem, where it could be 95% argon, 5% co2 for just normal welding, or be OXYGEN instead of co2 for flat welding at high deposition rates.
Specificity is the best way to get around that kind of confusion, and unfortunately as you delve into trying to find out this information, so many people have only ever been exposed to ONE type, for their specific niche they spent their whole life working on, where 'duh trimix is for stainless!' because that's the only trimix they have ever been exposed too, and incorrectly assume it's the same everywhere, instead of just their niche.
No one would blame you for being confused. Just take it slow, things will eventually 'click' for ya. For that I am certain of a man of your intellect, experience, and curiosity, there is no other alternative.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Learn before you Burn. You obviously have no idea what a 95 - 5 or similar gas is or you wouldn't be using 100% Co2 as a substitute. 95-5 is 95% Argon and 5% Co2. Also, Spray Transfer and Dual shield are to very different processes. Making a video with no knowledge of the processes is ignorant.
@@hmh-jv6rn 👍
3:50!!! Great deal!! ... interested to see how it performs!!
Thanks
On welding helmets depends on whether you want PAPR or not. Without Lincoln Electric have their 3350 series, with a big clear lens (auto darkening but not tinted) fully variable shading). You can get them in PAPR version too, but if you are in and out of the helmet doing set ups and tacking the PAPR makes it slow. Speed glass has a huge picture window on their helmet for when the helmet is open and offers good visabiltiy when you are tacking and setting up so a better option with PAPR than the Lincoln with PAPR.
The Lincoln is also triggered to darken with high frequency start on TIG too, not sure about the 3M.
The Lincoln PAPR battery lasts about 8 hours, and makes welding on hot humid days a delight.
Hope that helps. Dennis
Good info leaning towards speed glass but not sure yet. Thx
a lot off people struggle with rotary welding at the start mate, torch angle matters a whole lot, but you can put in a "vertical up root" and then just fill out in a neutral or downhand position and build it all up ready for capping. for fillets its better to point your gun against the direction of rotation so you can see the root burning in as you go, or set it at a 45 degree and go straight down on top. i never liked dragging a mig weld as you can miss so much especially with the root run. have fun
Yeah it can be tricky
I beg to differ, The Vevor uses plain parts you can buy from any hardware store for cheap. The American one uses harder to find parts and often cost significantly more.
👍
This is very interesting. You can definitely buy if not that exact electronics box from vevor, but an entire stand alone vfd kit for well under $100. Surely they will be similar if not the same guts. But for not much more you can really get one that is waaay overkill for the use case. Dont know if that would alleviate any issues.
Yeah indeed
The one to look for is ISO certifications for overseas products. One company I used to buy from was Grizzly and their equipment was on par with American made products but not as expensive and they're ISO certified. Thank you for the content Kyle.
Absolutely good point
Grizzly makes decent stuff but iso is a minimum, you can still exceed that spec.
Be very clear eyed there is plenty of magic ISO and CE tags that are not certified at all. Also ISO even done properly has different levels one in particular is just a warehousing certification and has ZERO to do with the product.
Kyle, thanks for the review,,,,,love all you do.....Paul in Florida
Thanks Paul
Plenty of interesting vanover content of late , helps me relax and plan out what I should be doing . Excellent.
Glad you are enjoying it
Do you watch Cutting Edge Engineering?
Great stuff and I'll bet he'll help you
Indeed do indeed
Good review brother! 👍
Thanks! 👍
And welding equipment from Temu. Good equipment.
11:43 Some if not many, China made items like this, use very basic electrical and electronic controls. Many of the parts are available at Amazon, or Temu, Alibaba etc. ... this helps them keep prices low, and makes them repairable ..... with some research. :)
Yeah agreed
Your honesty made me subscribe. thank you. oh and Speedglas all the way. I tried others and just missed my Speedglas when I was using them
Really appreciate it yeah. heard great stuff about speedglass
Kyle, CO2 in high concentrations, will not support spray mode.
That’s interesting. Maybe I’m mistaken. I was trying to get 98/2 but my gas supplier doesn’t sell that he said that hundred percent CO2 would do spray transfer just fine and when I googled it, I seen a few people using it.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair good luck
@@veejaybomjay8145 thanks
Check out LJ Welding out of Alberta, Canada.
Will do
Just a note, there is a distinction between Taiwan and China.
Yes there is
No shame in accepting a product to test. Do appreciate the transparency though. And love the shoutout to CCE.
Absolutely
Both look like pretty nice machines.
I think so too!
We will see who is better US or Chinese.
Indeed
👍
👍
What I love about your work is that it has to be 100%+.
There is a guy in Australia who has a tool that he uses that you could/can pick out some points that you can add to your set up.
Making a Rotary Ground Clamp for Welding | Shop Made Tools CEE
ruclips.net/video/bIkHtYWENiA/видео.html
Thanks yeah I know who Curtis is lol
Thanks for this. I'm getting sick of some of the channels I used to watch and now all they do is Vevor product reviews now.
Yeah probably no more vevor for a while
You're talking as if the Vevor uses hard to source parts.. A rotary table is extremely simple. It uses very easy to find parts..
I agree the parts are basic I know because I priced them out when building one.
3m speed glass 4 teh win bra.
Awesome second person I heard say that
I see NO point in comparing 2 totally different products 🤔🇨🇦
Actually, I think there is a good point in comparing two different products. That’s how you learn why you use one over the other.
I bet Curtis at CEE earned his back in no-time with the amount he uses it. Sometimes it's so difficult to not buy the best there is as a tool junkie.
Yeah agreed
You can see the same experience with the same equipment at Cutting Edge Engineering Australia channel. I hope it will be useful.
Hope so!
I'm not a welder, I'm a firefighter. Whatever welding helmet you choose, buy one with a filter. For example, Curtis's, but perhaps there are many others. I have also advised this to "Freedom Fabrication", values your health. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Good call it’s on my list
check out kurtis ground "clamp" on cutting edge engineering.
Yeah seen that video
Yes, please don't turn into an Abom... that guy's channel was great until he became a walking billboard of stuff he doesn't even use or need.
Don’t worry
I agree with you 100% chinese bootleg everything when l was on big construction sites NO CHINESE tools,shackles ,please nothing we never trust their products but like you said some things like a phone we have no choice bc of cheap labor but l love your honest feedback!
I’ve had some good experience on the tool front, but consistently very poor experience with any fasteners from that zip code (if they use such things). For critical applications with potential risk to property / life, I stick with McMaster / domestic
Agreed