It can be quite challenging. I say it's easy because I have this mindset that everything is just nuts and bolts. Sometimes you have to press things out and in, but everything is just nuts and bolts. Just having to remember where they go is the problem. It, to me, is a very simple job. I have a lot of experience though. So I hope in some way this video did help you out. Please let me know if I can help explain anything else that's why I make these videos.
Installing the new dizzy bearing really helped as well on this "rebuild", My dizzy shaft bearing was certainly showing it's age! My Mr2 AW11 is now very happy, and HIGHLY recommend doing this on your old AW11 distributor.
Thanks for the video. I need to look into this and actually see if my distributor is leaking. I would guess that the distributor for the SC is the same but I'm not 100% sure. I've bought parts from Neil before and he's been easy to work with. Liked and subscribed!
Thanks for the video 🙏🏻 ordered my kit because my distributor is definitely leaking, was thinking of just trying to replace the two o-rings first to see if that works since I don’t have a bearing puller or drill bits. Do you think that might help? Also would you still have to put the engine at tdc if you’re not completely disassembling the dizzy, and I just mark where the rotor is before removing? Either way great videos thanks for the help. I have a 88 NA.
Thank you! I appreciate the support! You definitely could try those two o-rings first. It's definitely a good start. But anytime you remove the distributor from the head, it's best to put the engine at top dead center because the distributor magnet likes to sit at cylinder one So it's just a lot easier to plug it back into the head without the potential of getting it a tooth off. You'll still need a timing light as well.
Just got the kit installed, and ended up buying a timing light like you said as well :) got everything running great, and no leaks so far 😅 thanks again for the great video and the response bro!
I would say definitely ensure you're at top dead center and ensure the cap is pointed to cylinder 1 as much as possible. It definitely can be tough, but you should be able to get it
@@ivgarage where can I get more info on the cylinder position? My car was running fine and now after trying to do the o-ring swap.. it won’t start. Could that be from not putting the position exactly where it was before? Could 1 tooth being off prevent the car from starting?
@@1992babyG definitely could be. So on the plastic timing cover line up the crank pulley to the timing cover, take off the top timing cover to the cams and make sure they like up with the timing marks, now inside the distributor, rotate it to #1 meaning take the cap off and physically rotate it, and then plug the distributor into the head. As long as you are at top dead center on cylinder 1 both on the head/block and the distributor, when you put it in the gears will like up, then you just need a timing light to set timing. The car will start even if the ignition timing is off too far. Just misfire. If you have anymore questions definitely ask me or email me
@@ivgarage Thanks. I figured it was risky. My 85 stsrted leaking oil the other day. Got to get under there and see if i can locate where its coming from. I have the same kit you have, got it from Neil a year or so ago. Figured i would need it sooner or later. Take care, i 'll keep a watch on your channel. Canada.
@@ivgarageopinion on a brand new Cardone branded distributor? I figured I would fork up the clams to buy a new one from summit racing for 200 bucks. Helped give me ease at mind because I have no experience, and taking apart the dizzy seemed like a very delicate process I could fuck up fairly easily 😭
@@girthydumpsterfire6920 I mean Cardone seems to be okay for a brand. But I'm not sure on a distributor. But I totally understand where you're coming from. Buying one would be a better bet
hi i know its random but i live in germany and i cant buy those seals for my mr2 w1 cause i live in germany :( soooo my question is do you maybe know how i could ship it from America to Germany ?
So actually the kit I got is from the UK sold by Neil Jones. I got it off of eBay. But he is on Facebook and Instagram and he should be able to help you out there.
@@ivgarage that sounds a lot more clear than all the pulley markings people are talking about which I can’t seem to see . (which I still need for fine tuning with the timing light right ?)
Yes, you will still need to see those but you will see them when the timing light shines down onto it. I should have also specified before you remove the old distributor, pull the cap off and line it up where cylinder one would fire.
I bought the same kit from Neil for my 85 MR2. He told me it was a breeze to do this. From watching this video its anything but a easy.
It can be quite challenging. I say it's easy because I have this mindset that everything is just nuts and bolts. Sometimes you have to press things out and in, but everything is just nuts and bolts. Just having to remember where they go is the problem. It, to me, is a very simple job. I have a lot of experience though. So I hope in some way this video did help you out. Please let me know if I can help explain anything else that's why I make these videos.
Installing the new dizzy bearing really helped as well on this "rebuild", My dizzy shaft bearing was certainly showing it's age! My Mr2 AW11 is now very happy, and HIGHLY recommend doing this on your old AW11 distributor.
Yeah changing out that bearing is really good
Thanks for the video. I need to look into this and actually see if my distributor is leaking. I would guess that the distributor for the SC is the same but I'm not 100% sure. I've bought parts from Neil before and he's been easy to work with. Liked and subscribed!
Thank you so much! And yeah I would guess it would be the same. But never know!
Try to install viton oil ring better because of the high temperature in that area from the exhaust manifold.
MVP Ryan saves the day! Set my 1G engine bay on fire last year.. I got lucky too 💀
That's good that you got lucky!
Thanks for the video 🙏🏻 ordered my kit because my distributor is definitely leaking, was thinking of just trying to replace the two o-rings first to see if that works since I don’t have a bearing puller or drill bits. Do you think that might help? Also would you still have to put the engine at tdc if you’re not completely disassembling the dizzy, and I just mark where the rotor is before removing? Either way great videos thanks for the help. I have a 88 NA.
Thank you! I appreciate the support! You definitely could try those two o-rings first. It's definitely a good start. But anytime you remove the distributor from the head, it's best to put the engine at top dead center because the distributor magnet likes to sit at cylinder one So it's just a lot easier to plug it back into the head without the potential of getting it a tooth off. You'll still need a timing light as well.
Just got the kit installed, and ended up buying a timing light like you said as well :) got everything running great, and no leaks so far 😅 thanks again for the great video and the response bro!
@@dylandean326 you're welcome man! I'm glad it could help!
Hi excellent video. I'm having problems inserting my distributor back in. I keep getting it a tooth out. Any suggestions thanks.
I would say definitely ensure you're at top dead center and ensure the cap is pointed to cylinder 1 as much as possible. It definitely can be tough, but you should be able to get it
@@ivgarage where can I get more info on the cylinder position? My car was running fine and now after trying to do the o-ring swap.. it won’t start. Could that be from not putting the position exactly where it was before? Could 1 tooth being off prevent the car from starting?
@@1992babyG definitely could be. So on the plastic timing cover line up the crank pulley to the timing cover, take off the top timing cover to the cams and make sure they like up with the timing marks, now inside the distributor, rotate it to #1 meaning take the cap off and physically rotate it, and then plug the distributor into the head. As long as you are at top dead center on cylinder 1 both on the head/block and the distributor, when you put it in the gears will like up, then you just need a timing light to set timing. The car will start even if the ignition timing is off too far. Just misfire. If you have anymore questions definitely ask me or email me
Would it not be easier to buy a rebuilt dist? I believe their on ebay for about one hundred seventy u.s. Thanks for the vid.
I honestly wouldn't trust it, I've bought cheaper options for things like that on eBay before and didn't work.
@@ivgarage Thanks. I figured it was risky. My 85 stsrted leaking oil the other day. Got to get under there and see if i can locate where its coming from. I have the same kit you have, got it from Neil a year or so ago. Figured i would need it sooner or later. Take care, i 'll keep a watch on your channel. Canada.
Definitely good to keep on hand! Hopefully it's just the outer distributor seal, a lot easier to replace. But I appreciate it! Thank you!
@@ivgarageopinion on a brand new Cardone branded distributor? I figured I would fork up the clams to buy a new one from summit racing for 200 bucks. Helped give me ease at mind because I have no experience, and taking apart the dizzy seemed like a very delicate process I could fuck up fairly easily 😭
@@girthydumpsterfire6920 I mean Cardone seems to be okay for a brand. But I'm not sure on a distributor. But I totally understand where you're coming from. Buying one would be a better bet
hi
i know its random but i live in germany and i cant buy those seals for my mr2 w1 cause i live in germany :( soooo my question is do you maybe know how i could ship it from America to Germany ?
So actually the kit I got is from the UK sold by Neil Jones. I got it off of eBay. But he is on Facebook and Instagram and he should be able to help you out there.
@@ivgarage OMG THANKSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’m so confused on how to get the engine to to dead center 😭
Best bet is to remove the distributor cap and rotate the engine over until the rotor is lined up where cylinder 1 would fire
@@ivgarage that sounds a lot more clear than all the pulley markings people are talking about which I can’t seem to see . (which I still need for fine tuning with the timing light right ?)
Yes, you will still need to see those but you will see them when the timing light shines down onto it.
I should have also specified before you remove the old distributor, pull the cap off and line it up where cylinder one would fire.
The reason you want to line it up there is because you still can be 180° out and install the distributor 180° out and it won't fire
@@ivgarage ahhh ok ok all this said, in the process of doing this how badly can I damage the engine if I don’t do it right the first time ?