An Honest Watch Company: Thomas Ninchritz
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- The Thomas Ninchritz first came to my attention because it honestly labeled every aspect of the watch, including the ETA / Unitas moments. It’s much more than that; including affordable. Can affordable watches with pocket watch UNITAS / ETA movements be haute horlogerie?
May 1, 2018. I finally received word from Thomas Ninchritz. Here're the questions and answers from an inquiry:
Dear Mr. Sanders,
At the moment we are preparing an official press release.
This information describes more specific details about editing the watch.
Until this is finished, I have to ask you for some patience.
For this reason, I would like to answer for the time being only your questions.
1.) Question: Why did you choose ETA 6497-1 or ETA 6498-1?
Answer:
The movements ETA 6497-1 and 6498-1 offer due to their simplicity and robustness many possibilities to change them technically,
as well as artistically free to omit.
2.) Question: What do you add to the ETA movements that improve them?
Answer:
Technically: It is a 3/4-board installed, uses second stop, installed gooseneck regulation.
Optical: thermally blued screws, circular grind on 3/4-board, sunburst on ratchet wheel and crown wheel,
polished levers, on baseplate a pear-cut, All components are galvanized.
3.) Question: Will you develop your own movements or continue to use the ETA?
Answer:
For the time being it is not planned to deviate from these ETA works.
Best regards,
Thomas Ninchritz Uhren
Owner: Thorsten Hahmann (CEO)
I’m 😅
2:52
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@@DonaldTafjen 🤔
Dear Bill: Starting from zero less than 90 days ago, horology has become increasingly more complicated the more I learn. Good honest watchmakers like Thomas Ninchritz help restore the virtue of simplicity and honesty to horology by bringing honest and thoughtful craftsmanship to watches designed with widely available movements from the likes of Unitas. Three months ago the concept of an in-house movement meant little to me. Then it meant everything to me, whether or not it should. The intense focus on inhouse movements creates pressures that likely lead to ill considered commercial fibbery as to what is represented as an inhouse movement. Mr. Ninchritz had to build his career without being afforded the luxury of a major financial backer who could fund all of the business components required to attain the in-house movements of Parmagiani and Bovet. As you highlight, Mr. Ninchritz produces beautiful watches which are not insanely priced. As I pursued a little high horology today, the following thought occurred to me: nobody except a fellow watch geek will ever notice my Habring2 Felix or my Parmagiani Transforma but a wide cross section of non-watch people would likely notice Mr. Ninchritz’s Vice Versa if it was on my wrist and go on to express delight at seeing such a visually interesting and beautifully rendered watch. As I monitor my various high horology buds and offers, there is a voice in the back of my head that says, “screw all the pretensions of high horology and buy a Vice Versa for the sake of simple enjoyment.” Thanks again for sharing your horological curiosity with us. Best regards, Howard
Hey Howard, you might be surprised at the number of 'Watch Tribes' who only want one brand and one kind of watch. I've started making and doing simple adjustments of watches, and they all involve Unitas 6497/8 and Ninchritz was one of my inspirations. Also, check out Tourby Watches ( www.tourbywatches.com/collection/ ) they too use Unitas 6497/8 movements in creative ways! Cheers, Bill
Flieger with small seconds. That's something unique. Thanks for the information I always liked German micro brands.
Hey Derek, thanks man! If you like pilot watches with small seconds, you also might like the Zenith Pilot with GMT. It's got the small seconds at 9 o'clock and runs on a Elite 693 calibre. The GMT can be used as a Zulu time indicator...but the Thomas Ninchritz Fliegeruhr is very cool and $5,000 less than the Zenith! (I wonder how the Fliegeruhr would look if Ninchritz used the Unita 6497?) Cheers, Bill
Really interesting brand.
Thanks for introducing them for us Bill.
I've never heard of them but they seem to be an honest manufacturer given they make it clear the usage of ETA calibers in their pieces from the start.
Also loved their regulator watch!
I have one from another manufacturer and I can tell you it's one of my favorites pieces from a design perspective even though it's sometime challenging to quickly read the time.
Back to the Thomas Ninchritz has anyone in this group owns one of their pieces?
Would love to learn more about it!
Best,
Amintas
Hi Amintas, even though the brand goes back to 1999 (about the same time FP Journe got started as a brand) there's not much about TN. There was one snippy, almost banal, review by Ariel Adams on A Blog to Watch about the Vice Versa, and of course in some of the forums, but I haven't really seen that much. I found one used one priced at about the selling price of a new one; so it would seem that the owners would rather keep them or sell them dearly. Fortunately, I'm broke right now after a flurry of watch-buying, but that Regulateur has a target on its back! What's your next purchase? Cheers, Bill
They appear roughly once a year at around 1/3 off of RRP. m.facebook.com/groups/348667988659944?view=permalink&id=434649066728502&_rdr
WatchArtSci Thanks for insights Bill.
Hope I can see one of their pieces in the flesh one of these days.
Regarding my next buy boy I'm still wondering and saving for that. 😊
It's funny: as you mature as a collector you tend to be more patient and selective at as well.
That's good once you become "fillers" protected.
One thing is for sure, a new addition to the collection will certainly come up this year my friend!
Best,
Amintas
Kirk Chih-Kai Hsu Cool.Thanks for the hint Kirk!
Very nicely done and reasonably priced. I’d love to have one
Did you get one or are you still lookin, Amatrice? They keep coming up with new models and cases. Take care and be safe, Bill😷
@@watchartsci I found one but am in the negotiating and correspondence phase now. The seller is not that prompt in communication department
Currently looking at one. The fact it has a ETA makes it attractive. Cheap parts and any watchmaker can work on it
Good point HRM 1 ... and very true! Take care, Bill
Thanks for the great video Bill. I didn't know about this brand. I've been looking at Dornbluth and this brand reminds me of them. I love these smaller companies.
I'm the same way Clyde. I have no idea why most collectors want watches that are mass produced, largely without innovation and relatively dull. Take care and stay safe, Bill😷
Thank you for introducing us to this brand!
The last two watches shown were very interesting, the vice versa looks akin to a breguet tradition
Hey Sourabh Sekhar thank you for the kind words! It took me a while to realize that the Vice Versa has the reverse side of the movement facing the front! It reminded my of my Bovet 1822 19Thirty Fleurier ... but my Bovet displays the back in the back... not vice versa. Kindest regards, Bill
one of the Greatest watch reviews ever made . Bliss you and keep the good work
Whoaaaa man! That's high praise indeed! I'll do my best. Kindest regards, Bill
Beautiful watches (except vice versa IMO) More great info. I may not be able to afford some of these timepieces, but they a pure art to me. As always thanks again.
Thanks Forest Cop! I'm not much for skeletonized (and over-priced) watches either. I really like the Regulateur since I don have a regulator...and they're sort of cool. Kindest regards, Bill
SC has v good regulator as well. www.cornehl-watches.com/en/services/collection/collektion-regulator.html
Very interesting video Bill love the ETA 6498 cant get use to 97 being at 9.00...Thanks Bill for sharing.
Hey Bill, my pleasure! My Habring2 with it's A11B manufactured movement has a 9 o'clock movement and so does my Zenith Elite GMT. I rarely use my seconds sub-dials, so as long as it fits the design, I'm ok with it. The Grande Seconde has gotta go at 6, though! Cheers, Bill
Dear Bill, When I was in Europe, I became exposed to the Breguet ClassicLa Tradition Reference 7027 Skelton. It has many of the attributes of the Ninchritz Vice Versa but at a much greater price (400-500% minimum with the lowest preowned coming in at $12,000-$13,000 on Chrono24). While it is not possible to compare the Vice Versa to the 7027 on a feature by feature basis, I tend to like the Ninchritz better aesthetically and think that there is a better visual balance even though the 7027 has more skeltonization. The Bovet to which you refer has an amazing reversibility feature with a conventional (as conventional as Bovet can get) dial with a sapphire watch back displaying the skeltonized movement with a smaller subdial ala the Vice Versa. Of the three watches, the Bovet is of the first order but cost wise new is probably in the ballpark with the 7027 in many of its permutations even with the Bovet coming in 18 karat rose gold. There are probably fewer bragging rights accompanying the Ninchritz as opposed to either the Breguet or the Bovet but this type of watch is the horological equivalent of an amuse-bouche in nouvelle cuisine, an expression of the chef’s culinary vision but not meant for daily consumption. There are no Vice Versa available in the preowned market that I can find but WatchBuys has the Ninchritz Vice Versa in stock in the U.S. for under $5400. The Vice Versa may not prove to be a great store of value because of its Unitas/ETA movement (which is a plus for servicing purposes) but the craftsmanship is wonderful and it is that rare watch that will be noticed and admired by many, even people without the slightest interest in horology. Most importantly, the Ninchritz would bring me personal delight. I am not yet ready to pull the trigger and buy but I am deliberating prompted by your excellent video which was my initial introduction to Thomas Ninchritz and his estimable talents. Best regards, Howard
Hi Howard, that Vice Versa is quite an interesting watch. Maybe, you might consider making your own? $5,400 is a lot for an ETA-based watch, and you can get an ETA 6497 clone for about $30. (Seagull ST36). Take a watchmaking course, and then you could do your own service and adjustment on ETAs or clones. It's a lot of fun and a way to save up for a watch you want. Check out www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/ While saving for a Lang & Heyne, I can afford to still by watches by building them! Cheers, Bill
Hey, Great video about such an unknown brand.
I’m not sure if you know this now or not (due to to the video being so old!) but on the Unitas 6497 and 6498 they directly mount the second hand to the pivot of one of the wheels. (to my belief anyway) so the 6497 at 2:50 has the sub seconds at 6 o clock (in that orientation), and the 6498, in that orientation is at 3 o clock. But when these are rotated to crown at 3 o clock they go to 9 and 6 respectively. I hope this helps and if i’m wrong please correct me.
Thanks, Jacob
Thanks Jacob, love those ETA/Unitas 6497/8 movement - I 've been making watches with those movements for almost a year now. Kindest regards, Bill
Like those a lot, dspecially the regulateur. A pity the Unitas is rather big and normally leads to a watch being 43-45mm
The Regulateur is 42mm, but so's my Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier and my Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Hémisphères, and they don't seem big. Try on a 42 in one of your local stores; they're not as bad as you imagine. Cheers, Bill
I have to concur, the Kathedral is a nice piece, just my take on it 'of course' :)
Hi Kenneth, that was my favorite too initially, but now I'm focused on the Regulateur since that's one type of watch I think would work with my collection. Cheers, Bill
Hi Bill. Hope you are well. Thanks for sharing.
Everything is fine, and you're welcome! How's all with you? Kindest regards, Bill
WatchArtSci All is well this side. Daily grind and times flying 😊
Thanks Bill. Can you elaborate more on the Oris 112. I am very interested in one.
Interesting brand. Considering they're based on Unitas, do you think a local guy would be able to handle any servicing or repairs that came up? Oh, and could you PLEASE equalize the sound on your intros and outros with your content? On this one, I turned up the sound to hear your commentary and got a Maxell High Fidelity moment then the outro came on. Thanks!
Hi Clyve, sorry about the sound. It should have been the same though out ... I wonder what happened. As far as servicing, you're in luck! If your local can work on most ETAs, he/she can work on these. I have an old Valjoux in my Bovet Monorattrapante and a Peseux in my L. Leroy-both owned now by ETA, and my local semi-skilled watchmaker had no problem with either. Cheers, Bill
Reminds me of the original panerais where they used tried & true tested pocket watch movements for their first designs for a reason. Thanks for your quick response, will have to check this brand out.
Clivers! nice seeing you here. watchartsci is a great channel!
Really interesting piece. I like them, esp the grand seconde in steel. Thanks & hope he does well. Love to hear any customer feedback
Hi AL, I'm glad you liked it. Yes, the Grand Seconde was one of my four favorites: 1) Regulateur, 2) Kathedral, 3) Grande Seconde, and 4) Philippe. Here you can find a total of 10 reviews by customers (1-3 per watch): www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/thomas-ninchritz-watches.asp Kindest regards, Bill
WatchArtSci Many thanks Bill. Really fascinating. I also like that regulateur (I don't have one, I think my mind says more tricky to read them at a glance). Puting myself in their shoes, for that work, I think very well priced & beautiful pieces. Thanks again.
Hi AL, ironically, the Regulateur was designed to make it easy to read by having each hand on a different axis; however, most (myself included) find the opposite to be true since we're used to the hour and minute hands on the same axis. They're called "regulators" because they were originally designed to be used by others to set their clocks and watches. Kindest regards, Bill
WatchArtSci thanks Bill. Yes, they kind of remind me of twin lense reflex cameras. I never bought one, but always had a certain fascination, admired the aesthetic and probably should have. Very best wishes
Great one , interesting company. I ma also on lookout for regulateur, maybe do some regulateur video next.
Hey Zoran, sounds cool. Let me know when you do your Regulateur video! Cheers, Bill
Woowww this pilot watch is beautiful!
Hey Anastase! Why do I think that the Fliegeruhr has your name on it? Cheers, Bill
For the prices to be that good, the owner and CEO to come on live RUclips and tell the public the answers to your questions, and his work skill and textures and layout and everything about it just screams integrity. I like the look I think it's fantastic the prices are amazing and I think, this watchmaker to do what he's and for what he does and the way he acts and being honest should, and I also hope he is very successful because of it. I think and believe we need a lot more of these big watch companies, watchmakers, to take a look at these kind of guys and maybe change their ways and take some notes I'll say. I would love to own one of his watches or many. LOL! A lot of these big watch companies are just absolutely horrific & terribly overpriced, even if they are using precious metals, they are just cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs! sometimes on their prices. IWC!!! Are you listening?😛
Great points Jeremy! Here's a bit of update I just got. Last year Thomas Ninchristz turned over his business to Thorsten Hahmann, a "Master of Watching" who is caring on the tradition of the brand's namesake. Hahmann has had the title of Master Watchmaker for 20 years; so the one-man operation is still a one-man operation. I also learned what a "second stop" is; when the crown is pulled out, the balance wheel stops. (This feature, also called 'hacking', is added by TN and apparently is not native to the Unitas movement.) Kindest regards, Bill
You already mentioned this company in a past video, and I went direct to it's page to see the watches. They are very nice pieces, I like it a lot, but, and this is not a critic, I notice that all the cases are the same, same diameter, same lugs, almost same finish ( the only mallor change it's wen they are in gold) all the diference are in the dial.
It´s a kind of interesting idea, I belive.
By the way: what is your opinion about the chronoswiss flying regulators?
Hi Oscar, you brought up an interesting point. In part, I imagine that the Unitas/ETA 6497/8 were chosen for creating a movement-filled case reflecting the larger size watches we've seen in the 2000+ era; and once the decision was made to have a good fit between movement and case, there was no reason to have different size cases. (Note there are no women's watches from TN.) As for the Chronoswiss Flying Regulators, they reflect a re-manufacture of an existing movement from the 1970s. The Enicar 165 is manufactured by Chronoswiss as the base to their Flying Regulators. I find this fascinating, but I need to learn more about the Enicar 165 and the C122 from Chronoswiss they use in their regulators based on the Enicar 165. For a good discussion of the Enicar 165, you might find this article from 16 years ago interesting: www.timezone.com/2002/09/26/the-70s-watch-the-enicar-sherpa-super-dive-and-the-chronoswiss-regulateur-part-3/ Kindest regards, Bill
Thank you very much for your extensive response Bill. I will read the article carefully, I really like Chronoswiss and I always like to know more about them.
It seems to me that your ideas about the cases of the Thomas Ninchritz are correct, and you are absolutely right: they don't manufacture watches for women, another strange detail of this company. :)
Greetings and have a good weekend.
What do you think of Dornblueth and Sohn?
Hi James a year or so ago I spent a lot of time looking at them and while I admire their dedication to the craft and the looks of their watches Dornblueth and Sohn just did not hold my interest at their price point and 'imported' movement. They deserve another look. Take care, Bill
WatchArtSci I agree. Looks beautiful but I would go for Stowa for 1/4 price.
Does this brand have a website?
Here you go Rc: www.uhrenmanufaktur-nuernberg.de This has lots of details. Their North American Distributor is here: www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/thomas-ninchritz-watches.asp Cheers, Bill
Can you provide an E mail address for Thomas Ninchritz watch company?
That video was done 5 years ago Donald; no email, but you might try to call or text him at +49 911 552363. Take care, Bill