Here is my list of the ten best, Bill. To list ten best watches is no easy task: indeed, some watchmakers have more than one watch that could easily make it to this list. Nonetheless, for fun, here is my current and immediate take on the "best" (and may the horological Gods forgive me for any unjust omissions). Haldimann's Flying Resonance or Central Tourbillon Strehler's Papillon D’or or Papillon Tourbillon Gauthier's Logical One or Prestige HM (Rose Gold; Black & Gold Dial Edition) Flageollet's (De Bethune) DB25 Starry Varius or DB25 Perpetual Ferdinand Bethoud's Chronomètre FB 3SPC Rexhepi's Chronomètre Contemporain Klings' Flying Torbillon #7 or #18 Dufour's Grande Sonnerie Preziuso's Tourbillon of Tourbillons Patek's 6300GR Grand Complication
Hi Bill, you put together a great list of 10, and I would’ve certainly chosen at least 8 of them myself if composing the list, and I agree that all 10 are world class. Three others I hold in very high regard are Rémi Maillat of Krayon, Rexhep Rexhepi and Konstantin Chaykin. Sylvian Berneron’s first watch is also very impressive.
I agree Mercurial, and there are some young watchmakers who could be included as well, Remy Cools comes to mind...not to mention virtually every member of AHCI. Material for another video! Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci Remy Cools is indeed another excellent young watchmaker. A video that covers some of the ACHI members who aren’t as well known and are less spoken of would be great. There are some great talents that get very little exposure who have created some wonderful horology.
Thank you for including Roger Smith. I recently came back from the Isle of Man after a two week business trip. I emailed Roger Smith Watches for a chance to visit the studio whilst I was on the island. His wife kindly replied that it was difficult to arrange a visit due to their workload. Only clients and journalists would be able to come. This was understandable. I can only hope to be in a position to acquire a Roger Smith timepiece. As for additional watchmakers: Bovet, Credor, Laurent Ferrier, Moritz Grossman, Rexhep Rexhepi
Aamir, it would have been a treat to meet with Roger Smith, and those added talents are well within the wheel house of great watchmakers. Take care, Bill
Great list Bill but i would have added 2 more names of Andreas Strehler and Vianney halter to that list and i love that you included Marco Lang and Daniel Roth they never git the hype or recognition they deserve .
Excellent list Bill. Can't argue much. However, I would probably switch Romain Gouthier by Lange. Besides, I expected you to include a LYRIQUE watch in the Agenhor movement watch list.
Many thanks Bill . Great list of great watches . Love your choise . By the way ,for those who still do not know ,MBF is now owned partially by Chanel. With huge appreciation Nizar
Another great video BIll! It amazes me that there are so many incredible watchmakers...hard to narrow the field to 10. From the very best, we select our favs.
I am close to your age Bill. Maybe a little older :-). I have come to really appreciate your channel as one of my favorites. Thanks for the great content. I always learn from your vids!
Bill - all the watches you mentioned are excellent. However, I think we need to distinguish between best watch makers and best watches. For example, the Datograph from A Lange & Sohne shook the very foundations of watchmaking, causing manufacturers such as Patek to start making their own in-house chronograph movements. Even Dufour (on your list) is a huge fan of their chronograph movements and owns one. Other incredible watches include the Double Split that did something (double rattraponte) no watch in history had ever done; nor has anyone else been able to match it since. Keep up the great videos as always!
I think the brand is fantastic, IC. The co-founder, Denis Flageollet, is one reason, and they've created 31 calibers and have won the Grand Prize at the GPHG. They easily could have been on this list. Take care, Bill
I think the simplicity,Roger Smith and that type of movement are fantastic. The less people involved in the production of a watch,the better,because it feels a more personal connection with these skilled watchmakers. As an analogy,these watches remind me of the old wooden sailing ships,which are constructed from good basic,trusted materials,and crafted with skill and past down knowledge. Im convinced that you could give these watches to watchmaker greats from the past,like breguet or Harrison,and they could understand and repair them.Even make new parts. I also prefer the biggest possible diameter movement to fill the case,as I prefer a movement with a case,rather than a case with a movement.
Hi Speedy, that's an interesting take on watchmaking-sounds a bit Ayn Rand-but an interesting viewpoint nonetheless. One genius is worth a whole crew of watchmakers. We just have so few geniuses and so many collectors, though! Take care, Bill
Hi DoggieFam! Manual winds, especially with power reserve indicators, are far more determinant than automatics that depend on the amount and type of movement the user has. Besides, there's less 'junk' involved to fully wind the watch, and I can see the movement much better! Winding a watch is not hard work vs. laziness of automatics; but rather more time that I can spend with my watches! Take care, Bill
Hi Bill, I really appreciate all the work you're putting into your channel - it's fantastic! I was wondering if you’ve considered featuring Konstantin Chaikin. What are your thoughts on him, and if you haven’t included him, is there a particular reason why? Thanks!
A fantastic lineup of unobtainium pieces! I would certainly add Rexhep Rexhepi, Laurent Ferrier (my current grails) and Theo Auffret. Along with Guillaume Laidet, Auffret also runs SpaceOne watches, a microbrand focusing on making high-end complications and finishing as affordable as possible and that's something that should interest those looking for more down to earth prices.
Great choices! I agree with all of them. You could have specified your criteria: level of finishing, hand made watches, design, movement’s architecture,. Next watch I will buy: either Romain Gauthier C or H Moser Streamliner chronograph. Laurent Ferrier could have made the cut but he doesn’t make his own parts. Finally, De Bethune was not included, and I agree with this. But I would like to know why you excluded De Bethune?
Pierre, the criteria are all over the map. How can you compare a Dufour Simplicity with an AgenGraphe chronograph movement? However, let me invite you to provide what you consider a useful set of criteria. The Fondation Haute Horlogerie has a criteria so poorly stated that it excludes almost nothing, while many consider the criteria for the Geneva Seal too narrow and antiquated. How's a poor RUclips blogger like me supposed to come up with a criteria that won't set off a whole different set of arguments? Take care, Bill
Whilst the Lyrique is out of my budget at present, those who can afford to buy in to the creation process end up with a lot of watch for their money. The Lyrique etude No. 1 might be a ‘simple 3 hander’, but in terms of the quality of the movement, case, dial, hands and overall design it was quite cheap for what the participants paid. Even with the benefit of the plans Marco Lang has made available, which he stresses are not necessarily representative of his finished work due to his hand fitting and finishing of the components, I think a Lyrique style project that builds upon his design (if legal) would end up costing a lot more than Lyrique watches to date. I’d be amazed if anyone can approach that level of quality at a lower price point, especially in a limited edition run.
How am I going to look at my self knowing my Gshock doesn't have 18 karat solid gold plates and bridges? Mr Bill Sanders you are an enabler of epic proportions. Keep up the good work. I thoroughly enjoy it.
Reasonably attainable watches would be first criterion for my list.So , pre owned and older watches would be second. So... Breguet , Vacheron , JLC , and Rolex.
John, I would include Vacheron Constantin with the 4400 from 2013 and with the 5100 from 2016. As for JLC, the entire Geophysic line, Berguet from when the Chaumet brothers resurrected it in the 70s and 80s, and the Rolex Prince and Yachtmaster II. Take care, Bill
John, the VC with the 4400 (2013) and 5100 (2016); Breguet from the Daniel Roth era; JLC Geophysic line, and the Rolex Yachtmaster II and Prince. Take care, Bill
I believe that the best watch making is Patek and to a lesser degree, Rolex. I know this sounds cliche but the reality is they make exceptionally great watches on a mass production level and this is what real watchmaking is all about. These watchmakers you mentioned are definitely great, unique and incomparable to mass production companies on one to one comparison, but these manufacturers cannot really produce watches in big numbers. Mercedes is still Mercedes no matter how great Bugatti is. Rolex is Mercedes regardless.
I suppose it depends on your definition of a ‘great’ watchmaker. Do you value the production of one hundred watches to a very high quality standard, or do you value to production of just one watch with an eye-watering amount of detail? You would also need to factor in other things like name recognition. If nobody has heard of them, are they ‘great?’ What if, for example, there was a man faster than Usain Bolt, but he never ran in the Olympics?
Rolex make very robust and reliable watches, but you pay an enormous premium for the branding. They are not and do not try to be in the same league as the watchmakers in this video.
Mass production is done by machines, not humans. Rolex and entry-level Patek is untouched by humans, is not high quality, and their prices unjustified from a value perspective. There are dozens of brands in their price range that are created and finished mostly by hand. When you spend $15k on a Rolex or Patek, you are buying a brand, not a watch.
Great video Bill…an amazing collection of timepieces. Your knowledge is a valuable tool on these videos. Keep up the great work
Here is my list of the ten best, Bill. To list ten best watches is no easy task: indeed, some watchmakers have more than one watch that could easily make it to this list. Nonetheless, for fun, here is my current and immediate take on the "best" (and may the horological Gods forgive me for any unjust omissions).
Haldimann's Flying Resonance or Central Tourbillon
Strehler's Papillon D’or or Papillon Tourbillon
Gauthier's Logical One or Prestige HM (Rose Gold; Black & Gold Dial Edition)
Flageollet's (De Bethune) DB25 Starry Varius or DB25 Perpetual
Ferdinand Bethoud's Chronomètre FB 3SPC
Rexhepi's Chronomètre Contemporain
Klings' Flying Torbillon #7 or #18
Dufour's Grande Sonnerie
Preziuso's Tourbillon of Tourbillons
Patek's 6300GR Grand Complication
Great list Joesph, with one caveat ... Patek prior to 2009. Take care, Bill
Hi Bill, you put together a great list of 10, and I would’ve certainly chosen at least 8 of them myself if composing the list, and I agree that all 10 are world class.
Three others I hold in very high regard are Rémi Maillat of Krayon, Rexhep Rexhepi and Konstantin Chaykin.
Sylvian Berneron’s first watch is also very impressive.
I agree Mercurial, and there are some young watchmakers who could be included as well, Remy Cools comes to mind...not to mention virtually every member of AHCI. Material for another video! Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci Remy Cools is indeed another excellent young watchmaker.
A video that covers some of the ACHI members who aren’t as well known and are less spoken of would be great. There are some great talents that get very little exposure who have created some wonderful horology.
Thank you for including Roger Smith. I recently came back from the Isle of Man after a two week business trip. I emailed Roger Smith Watches for a chance to visit the studio whilst I was on the island. His wife kindly replied that it was difficult to arrange a visit due to their workload. Only clients and journalists would be able to come. This was understandable. I can only hope to be in a position to acquire a Roger Smith timepiece.
As for additional watchmakers: Bovet, Credor, Laurent Ferrier, Moritz Grossman, Rexhep Rexhepi
Aamir, it would have been a treat to meet with Roger Smith, and those added talents are well within the wheel house of great watchmakers. Take care, Bill
The artistry manifested in these watches is just awe inspiring.
Yes, that's as they should be Howard. Not necessarily a goal but an inspiration. Take care, Bill
Great list Bill but i would have added 2 more names of Andreas Strehler and Vianney halter to that list and i love that you included Marco Lang and Daniel Roth they never git the hype or recognition they deserve .
Good call, Abns. Both of those wonderful watchmakers are among the top! Take care, Bill
Excellent list Bill. Can't argue much. However, I would probably switch Romain Gouthier by Lange. Besides, I expected you to include a LYRIQUE watch in the Agenhor movement watch list.
Tarasankar, Lyrique was included via Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Lange could be included but not as a sub for Romain Gauthier. Take care, Bill
Always amazed by your picks Bill! Anything japanese worth mentioning? Some of the high end Credor/Grand Seiko look fantastic ( the price also 😅 )
Michael, I did cover one of the great Japanese watchmaker-the Tsunami's creator Haijime Asoaka.(sp). Take care, Bill
Many thanks Bill . Great list of great watches . Love your choise . By the way ,for those who still do not know ,MBF is now owned partially by Chanel.
With huge appreciation
Nizar
Yes, I just about out about Chanel and MB&F. Keep an eye on Chanel for HH in the coming future. Take care, Bill
Another great video BIll! It amazes me that there are so many incredible watchmakers...hard to narrow the field to 10. From the very best, we select our favs.
Thanks Blue Bat! Take care, Bill
George Daniels is still #1 in my eyes. I was very surprised his springcase tourbillion sold for what it did
Of course, HRM and so too is Roger Dubuis and Derek Pratt who we lost early in this century. Take care, Bill
Amazing selection, Bill! I’d love to have the same for newcomers independent
Okay, Cesar, it's in the hopper! Take care, Bill
Incredible, I'm very tempted to take the dive into 3d printing so I can play with the Lang designs
Wonderful film. Thank you.
Yes, Brendan! Fun!-too often we forget that watch collection should include fun! Thanks for reminding me! Take care, Bill
Great list, would also add MB&F, Gronefeld (feel like you covered them in the past), Armin Strom, Bovet, Laurent Ferrier.
Good call! Vietmontague! All of those could have been on the list! Take care, Bill
I am close to your age Bill. Maybe a little older :-). I have come to really appreciate your channel as one of my favorites. Thanks for the great content. I always learn from your vids!
Thanks Jazzman! Another War Baby! We're an increasingly rare breed. Take care, Bill
Art and Engineering combined, thanks Bill for the video 👍🏽
Well put Abdul! Take care, Bill
Bill - all the watches you mentioned are excellent. However, I think we need to distinguish between best watch makers and best watches. For example, the Datograph from A Lange & Sohne shook the very foundations of watchmaking, causing manufacturers such as Patek to start making their own in-house chronograph movements. Even Dufour (on your list) is a huge fan of their chronograph movements and owns one. Other incredible watches include the Double Split that did something (double rattraponte) no watch in history had ever done; nor has anyone else been able to match it since. Keep up the great videos as always!
What do you think about De Bethune and why?
I think the brand is fantastic, IC. The co-founder, Denis Flageollet, is one reason, and they've created 31 calibers and have won the Grand Prize at the GPHG. They easily could have been on this list. Take care, Bill
I think the simplicity,Roger Smith and that type of movement are fantastic.
The less people involved in the production of a watch,the better,because it feels a more personal connection with these skilled watchmakers.
As an analogy,these watches remind me of the old wooden sailing ships,which are constructed from good basic,trusted materials,and crafted with skill and past down knowledge.
Im convinced that you could give these watches to watchmaker greats from the past,like breguet or Harrison,and they could understand and repair them.Even make new parts.
I also prefer the biggest possible diameter movement to fill the case,as I prefer a movement with a case,rather than a case with a movement.
Hi Speedy, that's an interesting take on watchmaking-sounds a bit Ayn Rand-but an interesting viewpoint nonetheless. One genius is worth a whole crew of watchmakers. We just have so few geniuses and so many collectors, though! Take care, Bill
Great video, Bill. (That last one is the 'van-wheat' I think 😉.)
Thanks Rob ... Vingt is "van-wheat"? That helps because it's my favorite Kari V model. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci vingt-8 = van-wheat
I just discovered your channel, great job!
Hey Sindicate6! Thanks man! Take care, Bill
I would add Andreas Strehler
Rightly so Michele! He's one of my favorite as well. Take care, Bill
I couldn’t have picked a better list, excellent picks Dr.!
Great to hear Javi! Take care, Bill
Hi. Always great contents. Thks. One question - why do u prefer manual wound vs auto? … a lazy person such as myself prefers the latter😀? Thanks
Hi DoggieFam! Manual winds, especially with power reserve indicators, are far more determinant than automatics that depend on the amount and type of movement the user has. Besides, there's less 'junk' involved to fully wind the watch, and I can see the movement much better! Winding a watch is not hard work vs. laziness of automatics; but rather more time that I can spend with my watches! Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci thank u !
Hi Bill, I really appreciate all the work you're putting into your channel - it's fantastic! I was wondering if you’ve considered featuring Konstantin Chaikin. What are your thoughts on him, and if you haven’t included him, is there a particular reason why? Thanks!
Vlad, Konstantin Chaikin is among the best...but so are a lot of the others I missed. Take care, Bill
More crazy high prices to service these watches and hope they don't get lost in the mail.
Yikes Gary! Hadn't thought of that! Take care, Bill
A fantastic lineup of unobtainium pieces! I would certainly add Rexhep Rexhepi, Laurent Ferrier (my current grails) and Theo Auffret. Along with Guillaume Laidet, Auffret also runs SpaceOne watches, a microbrand focusing on making high-end complications and finishing as affordable as possible and that's something that should interest those looking for more down to earth prices.
Very good additions Abasan! Take care, Bill
The Grand Sport Tourbillon from Auffret on a red leather strap is amazing. I've seen it in the metal and it's so cool.
Great choices! I agree with all of them. You could have specified your criteria: level of finishing, hand made watches, design, movement’s architecture,. Next watch I will buy: either Romain Gauthier C or H Moser Streamliner chronograph.
Laurent Ferrier could have made the cut but he doesn’t make his own parts.
Finally, De Bethune was not included, and I agree with this. But I would like to know why you excluded De Bethune?
Pierre, the criteria are all over the map. How can you compare a Dufour Simplicity with an AgenGraphe chronograph movement? However, let me invite you to provide what you consider a useful set of criteria. The Fondation Haute Horlogerie has a criteria so poorly stated that it excludes almost nothing, while many consider the criteria for the Geneva Seal too narrow and antiquated. How's a poor RUclips blogger like me supposed to come up with a criteria that won't set off a whole different set of arguments? Take care, Bill
Don’t underestimate yourself Bill.😊
Great content Bill 🏌🏽♂️⛳️🥃
Hey Tim! Thanks man! Take care, Bill
Can you use the Marco Lang movement for creating affordable Lyrique watch?
Whilst the Lyrique is out of my budget at present, those who can afford to buy in to the creation process end up with a lot of watch for their money.
The Lyrique etude No. 1 might be a ‘simple 3 hander’, but in terms of the quality of the movement, case, dial, hands and overall design it was quite cheap for what the participants paid.
Even with the benefit of the plans Marco Lang has made available, which he stresses are not necessarily representative of his finished work due to his hand fitting and finishing of the components, I think a Lyrique style project that builds upon his design (if legal) would end up costing a lot more than Lyrique watches to date.
I’d be amazed if anyone can approach that level of quality at a lower price point, especially in a limited edition run.
Maybe Marco would make one for us, Ali. What do you think? Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci Now that would be awesome!
@@watchartsci that would be great!
Hey Bill. I’m confused is this live?
No Cesar....just lively. Take care, Bill
How am I going to look at my self knowing my Gshock doesn't have 18 karat solid gold plates and bridges? Mr Bill Sanders you are an enabler of epic proportions. Keep up the good work. I thoroughly enjoy it.
I have heard DrBob...they ought to lock me up. Take care, Bill
Reasonably attainable watches would be first criterion for my list.So , pre owned and older watches would be second. So... Breguet , Vacheron , JLC , and Rolex.
John, I would include Vacheron Constantin with the 4400 from 2013 and with the 5100 from 2016. As for JLC, the entire Geophysic line, Berguet from when the Chaumet brothers resurrected it in the 70s and 80s, and the Rolex Prince and Yachtmaster II. Take care, Bill
John, the VC with the 4400 (2013) and 5100 (2016); Breguet from the Daniel Roth era; JLC Geophysic line, and the Rolex Yachtmaster II and Prince. Take care, Bill
Write a book
D Ska, writing books is hard. I published 63 books before I retired but none about watches! Take care, Bill
MB&F, Grönefeld and Laurent Ferrier should not miss on such a list...
Yes, all deserve a spot on top watches Andy. Take care, Bill
No Jacob the jeweler on this list? 🤷♂️
Jacob is vulgar ghetto bling; only purchased by Kardashian types.
Not this list Steven...Take care, Bill
A video hint: 40 hertz full mechanic
ruclips.net/video/_bp-c-NLzpw/видео.html
I believe that the best watch making is Patek and to a lesser degree, Rolex. I know this sounds cliche but the reality is they make exceptionally great watches on a mass production level and this is what real watchmaking is all about. These watchmakers you mentioned are definitely great, unique and incomparable to mass production companies on one to one comparison, but these manufacturers cannot really produce watches in big numbers. Mercedes is still Mercedes no matter how great Bugatti is. Rolex is Mercedes regardless.
I suppose it depends on your definition of a ‘great’ watchmaker. Do you value the production of one hundred watches to a very high quality standard, or do you value to production of just one watch with an eye-watering amount of detail?
You would also need to factor in other things like name recognition. If nobody has heard of them, are they ‘great?’ What if, for example, there was a man faster than Usain Bolt, but he never ran in the Olympics?
lol sure thing. I guess you own a Rolex so keep telling yourself that. In NO timeline does Rolex make objectively the best anything at all.
Ameer, popularity and great horology are not necessarily the same thing. Take care, Bill
Rolex make very robust and reliable watches, but you pay an enormous premium for the branding. They are not and do not try to be in the same league as the watchmakers in this video.
Mass production is done by machines, not humans. Rolex and entry-level Patek is untouched by humans, is not high quality, and their prices unjustified from a value perspective. There are dozens of brands in their price range that are created and finished mostly by hand. When you spend $15k on a Rolex or Patek, you are buying a brand, not a watch.
Hi Bill, as usual, some of the best watch content in RUclips! Still hard to swallow that excellence comes at rather steep prices, though. 🥲
Yes, the prices mean I'll never have any of them unless I get lucky! However, they point in a direction to look for equivalences! Take care, Bill