+Jake Coppinger its great to see that you reply to comments on your youtube videos. im a huge fan. and also, is swirlesque coming to market, and if so, when?
+Sir Maxwell I don't believe I will take it to market, but I have learned a lot from the process of developing it. I will be studying Computer Science at university this year, so keep a look out for more products at jakecoppinger.com!
DO NOT add black bars to your footage to achieve the cinematic wide screen look. This does not change the aspect ratio, it keeps the footage at 16:9 but with black bars. the easiest and correct way to achieve the ultra wide screen aspect ratio is to change the aspect ratio of your sequence in premiere. this way, your finished project is already in a standard aspect ratio and will make it look like you know what you are doing. if you were to work for a prodcution studio and turn in a finished product that was a 16:9 aspect ratio but you added letter box bars, they are instantly going to question your professionalism and knowledge of video production. any video platform whether it is television, youtube, vimeo, a theater, etc will add the black bars itself to fit the format of the finished product.
Understandable. But exactly what procedure would you do, say in Premiere Pro CC 2018? Anything I've tried (pixel aspect ratio adjustment) forces the image to fit into the new aspect ratio, distorting the final image.
Sequence --> Sequence settings and there ypu can change it. But it will cut off some parts off your video --> just recenter/ adjust position of it so that the "important" stufg is still visable
RUclips shows these wide aspect ratio weirdly in theatre mode if we don't add bars in 16:9. I understand that, for a professional render, aspect ratio of render must be wide and not 16:9, but his explanation is good for RUclips purposes.
Don't forget, if your shot is overexposed when you're outside (or anywhere for the matter), and you're at your lowest ISO and you don't want to loose either you depth of field or your set shutter speed, you can use ND (Neutral Density) Filters. They'll take your camera's exposure down certain amounts of stops depending on what filter you use, which enables you to maintain exactly or closer to the exact f/stop and or shutter speed that you wanted.
hands down to anyone who starts their tutorial first and foremost without any advertising words and sentences and get to the point. thank you so much for being like this.
Don't get confused into specific technology because no one knows but you what made your masterpiece just by looking at it. 1080p is plenty as long as you understand your equipments capabilities and know how to edit. See the edit in your head as you film using a story boad if required. Artistic flare and nice lenses are crucial. Be satisfied with your budget and your equipment.
I remember about 15 years ago, way before RUclips existed, I was a part of a film forum and people were discussing how to do the effect of music videos and the intro scene in Gladiator, and I kept telling people it was "shutter speed," and NO ONE else was agreeing with me. People said I was wrong. It was so frustrating. LoL
You were wrong, it's shutter angle not speed for the gladiator effect. Specifically 45 degree. The jerky motion seen in the video with the cars is a mismatch artifact caused by a combination of incorrectly set shutter speed/fps with rolling shutter which is an issue in motion on DSLR cameras with smaller sensors.
@@RichyGuyInTheChair There is NO SUCH THING AS SHUTTER ANGLE in any digital camera. Stop spreading this lie. Shutter angle is from the film days with half-moon mechanical shutters. Shutter angle does not exist in the digital world.
@@RichyGuyInTheChair Yep...! DSLR is not always best for shooting video, despite great sharp pictures, with limited DOF. They are an annoying shape for shooting video, don't have XLR sockets, have limited shooting times, and kinda look amateurish... you know, a stills guy using his camera to shoot video, because he doesn't have a video camera - unless, as a pro, you lash on all the supplementary gear necessary to make it shoot like a video camera! Which makes it clumsy as hell! There's a lot still to be said for the purpose-designed video camera, with all the necessary controls at your fingertips...!
a tip for 3:55 - ISO settings: you can use filters on the DSLRs to not sacrifice depth of field (just like in the old days). Hope this helps some aspiring photo/videographers.
I like how each point addressed was shown onscreen or followed up with an example, and at a decent/"patient" pace. So many videos I find for beginner's shootings tips move at too slow or too fast a pace, to the point where it's either boring or confusing to follow. This is definitely one of the more beneficial videos I've come across in my search for DSLR shooting knowledge, and that's saying something considering this video is years old now.
This was one of the most helpful videos I've ever watched. Thank you so so much! It basically covers everything I want to know as a beginner and had answers to questions that no one really could answer me!
I have a Canon 60D and just recently decided to start using it to film some of my vlogs. I learned so much from this short video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you... thank you for breaking it down so simply. This is the mosy comprehensive tutorial of the 100's I've wached so far.I will refer to this tutorial all the time, now. Keep up the great work!!!
thisvideo doesnt tell you the correct way to achieve the 32:9 aspect ratio. you do not add bars yourself. all that does is add black bars to a 16:9 aspect ratio. the correct way is to change the aspect ratio of your entire project in sequence settings inside premiere. this way, whatever you play the video on whether it is youtube, television, vimeo, theater, or wide screen displays, the format will always adjust accordingly to the aspect ratio of the video. the bars will be added accordingly on whatever platform you watch the finished product on.
Hello. I've been looking for how to achieve a cinematic look. With your extraordinary video, I have found the formula. No one on the web has explained better than you how to do it. Congratulations, really. You have explained it perfectly. Greetings from Spain. And thanks.
I was so unprepared for that...what just happened? I search the internet all the time...but somehow I just learned more than I ever have in 11 minutes. Blown away.
good video ... you should have mentioned ND filters though, as they are very esential to filming in daylight with wide aperture! and whats the name of the font on your video thumbnail?
Your Cinematography, alone, made this video enjoyable. Great artist can tell a story with no dialogue, you point this out when you said color is used to express moods in film.Thank you for the information and the showcase of your abilities Jake.
Worth a shot: if anyone on here is a filmmaker looking for a composer, give me a shout. I've a Classical background and specialise in acoustic music, particularly piano & strings. Sorry for cluttering your comment thread, Jake - I enjoyed your video & gave it a like ;)
@luke im a yoga teacher creating yoga & fitness classes , i use music and always need copyright free music. if you are interested in collaborations, message me.
im majoring in digital media production right now. everything i've learned so far in the 3 quarters ive been attending, this guy explained in 11 minutes. god damn
Frame rate has a much deeper reasoning behind than 'Because we've been conditioned to equate 25p (UK) with a cinema look'. One skin deep perception would be that we've been conditioned to it. A more scientific perspective (the way 24p was arrived at in the first place some 40 years ago) is that 24p allows for BOTH a realistic motion blur as well as a slow enough framerate to be perceived by our brains as unrealistic or 'not real life'. It is readily accepted by the brain because it is so slow compared to our brain's ~40 moments per second for literally 'real life'. 24p leaves the image very artistically trustworthy and far from the uncanny valley mental rejection of an unreal thing looking 'close but not quite close enough' to real life itself (like androids). All this 60hz 'modern' imaging built in as the preset in modern tv's is destroying the way people perceive the cinematic. I can spot the higher framerates in a heartbeat, but apparently most other people only see it subconsciously. There is just too much visual information in those higher framerates for something to look cinematic. The high framerate image says LOOK EVERYWHERE where a good 24/25p image easily says "Just look right here".
I would have liked to go into more detail into why 24 or 25fps is used for film, but I was trying to keep the length of the video manageable! I agree, I don't appreciate the high frequency setting on TVs for film.
When you say 60 Hz in your comment your mean 60 frames per second video, right? When you say the mind processes at 40 moments per second, well, from what I've heard you can see the difference between 60 fps and 120 fps Anyway I tend to agree with your thoughts that video shot at 60 fps says "look everywhere" and loses the integrity of 24 fps
killy731 Hz in television refers to the refresh rate, when a new image is presented on screen, as far as I know. In practical terms though, tv's internally now do something called frame interpolation, creating new intermediate 'averaged' frames to forcibly make 30p video into 60p or 60hz playback. Lots of tv's are advertising 120hz or 240hz and the only result in my book is that it makes every images not shot at that kinda of frame rate or not meant for that refresh rate look like hell. i.e. Sports looks great because it's such a lifelike reproduction, news is fine too, but tv shows, movies, or cartoons get visually torn, very plasticky or rubbery motion because those mediums benefit from slightly more relaxed or slower framerates, a more cinematic experience.
Super job - only thing excluded from basic knowledge which I ran across is needing to know about an ND for when you just have to cut the light at even your slowest ISO to get a decent exposure. Thanks for laying that all out.
Well, I personaly prefer to shoot at 50fps than 25, because you can always reduce the frame rate with software, but when you would like to create "slowmo" effect out of 25 fps, its going to look blury and laggy, when 50fps looks (when slowed to 25fps) focused.
I have had my canon rebel for at least 5 to 6 years and I just learned more about what it can do then you can imagine , thank you from the bottom of my camera bag, I just thumbed up and subscribed
I have a question. Since 24fps is for film, how can I adjust that for my Canon t6i. The settings are only 25 fps at PAL setting, and 23.976 for NTSC. I heard 23.976 and 24 are not the same. I wanted to make a cinematic approach..help
you are great sir....hats off to you you explained it very calmly and precisely so that even a mere beginner can understand what is filmmaking on a budget
I really like making short films but I only recently got my first camera and this video helped a whole lot with explaining ISO, shutter, aperture, etc.❤️
Hello Jake - Found this video real helpful. I was just curious as to how you achieved the effect starting at 6 secs (The infographics over each character). I understand it is to do with compositing. Would like to see a tutorial specifically on this some time (or do you already have it some place that you can point me to?)
Hi Dilson, those stats were a whole other project in themselves, for my short film Self. I did a lot of After Effects work to design them, and then used motion tracking to compose them into the scene. I don't have a tutorial yet (I'm definitely looking into it) but if you search for tutorials on heads up displays of Iron Man style graphics you will find some good tutorials!
Great video, but one thing i don't even understand, that everybody uses this freaking 2.35 ratio crop template. In Premiere it's so easy to add it, before exporting, by adjusting the resolution and setting it to not scaling. Then u have less render times, and youtube won't care anymore, and support the format correctly. The problem is that u can watch the movie with youre freaking letherboxes on a 16:9 monitore and it looks like 2.35:1, but on a 2.35:1 it will be smaler because the monitore thinks it is 16:9 and tawoosh you have black boxes in every side of the video. Hope one day everybody understands
agreed with this comment. no need for the bars. either export cropped or do the composition at 2.35:1 then its correct for ultra wide screen devices. great video tho and thanks for the color grading tips
I think a blue overlay also conveys a sense of adventure and wandering into the unknown. An example of this is shown in "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty", where there is a LOT of blue hues to the film, as the main character travels to foreign lands.
Instantly on that first shot I knew it was Canberra! Had a feeling and then all the other shots confirmed it. The video itself was massively helpful. thanks!
This is because most people do not use them on the correct shots. It isn’t designed to interpret how the camera moves with the subject. If you are serious about video production, I’d invest in a gimbal, and shoot b-roll at a faster frame-rate so that you can slow it down in post giving it more of a buttery movement.
If i have to stabilize footage i would just track the camera and just match the motion of the footage to the tracking data then just crop and done butter smooth with no distortion or weird artifacts
when shooting a overexposed video? what should i adjust? the shutterspeed or the aperture? i saw that the shutterspeed can also affect the light that is coming on camera.
Cong TV its safe to go to 1/100 or as some people told me 1/150 in order to keep from overexposing. but ideally lower the aperture and iso, if youre still afraid of changing the shutter speed buy yourself an nd filter
Cong TV Sometimes going to aperture 5.6 isn't a bad idea it would be easily to keep things in focus and 5.6 is the place where most lenses perform the sharpest results at ISO 100-800
+Cong TV You can use a faster shutter speed but it removes motion blur and can make the footage look jerky. An experiment you can try is to shoot footage of something like a waterfall at lets say 1/50 second and then much faster. I managed to get 1/2000 last when I tried it. Then look at the resulting footage. They look quite different.
Alright good video, good points but this video has a few inaccurate points, as a DP this really makes me happy and sad at the same time, it makes me happy that you are trying to help the community but at the same time it makes me sad because there are alot points wrong here. You are right about the shutter speed and shutter angle thing, but you missed a few points and i can hope i can help you out here. So to sums things up for you that you did right : 1/48 Check 2.35 letterboxing check ( a very cliche way of making the ''film'' look btw ) Now here comes where you and 95% of the (Canon) DSLR making community falls into a pit. which is Dynamic range, do not kill your highlights and shadows while grading, never do this never ever do this, its called the film look for a reason, actuall FILM (4 perf 35mm kodak film) has a HUGE dynamic range, so dont kill it in post production. Next up is grading, grading is cool its alright but grading according to ''film'' standards really means trying to simulate film stock ( the look you see in the movies ) so that usually means using a lut instead of using some preset which kills skin tones and makes your video look everything but the film look, because the moment you screw with skin tones you bassicly killed your look. I suggest you to study the color of film ( google this : Kodak 52199, Fujifilm etc to get references) and at last always add a litle bit of film grain to get that film texture. Goodluck
You've got some good advice in your comment but I don't think what the online DSLR community refers to as the "Film look" is actually about reproducing the look of photographic film anymore. Sure, I think at the beginning it was, but the term is now used to refer to the general visual style of "Films" rather than "Photographic film".
Yes, and that is pretty sad... its the actual big subscriber base guys that are mis informed about this aswell, hence the reason why i really dont see anyone with real good looking pictures anymore. Oh well, you are born a DP like Pfister said and you are made a cameraman ;)
You read my mind lol. It's a huge misconception to get a DSLR and nifty fifty and bam you're making movies. But these people always look like complete amateurs with their over grading and destroying whatever dynamic range they had (which wasn't much to begin with). I always see the overdone blue tones and cringe.
Haha, i feel the same way, and quite frankly i made the same mistake years ago. while it is possible to create beatifull images with a 550d and a 50mm 1.8 IF you know what you are doing, ive seen video shot on a 550d that looked like it was hot on a red or something, and then again i have seen video that were shot on a red that looked like it was shot on a dslr... Bare max that you can push out of a DSLR is 9 stop, MAX 10 stops of dynamic range, the camera that i use the the 5D3 with modified firmware called Magic Lantern which enable's me to shoot uncompressed 14bit RAW video ( or dng sequences, what ever you want to call it lol ) and gives me 12 to 14 stops of DR. I have found my way of finding the look trough self study and researching all of this myself. Also the people who mastrubate over the whole 4k thing are amateurs aswell. Like i said, you have wanna-be cinematographers like the guy in this video ( sorry for being harsh ) and you have true film heart cinematographers who have a sense of this magical thing called film
Totally. I also forgot to mention the overdone, DOF. Makes me wanna scream at my laptop. Lol. That's why I mentioned that 50 1.8 in the first place. Tbh, I own a 550D and used my Nifty Fifty recently. It's all in the guy behind the camera. I'm not saying I'm pro, but I just wish I could make these people realise how unprofessional it looks. I've seen short films on the T2i that looked straight from a movie. And just as you said, I've seen red footage look like a complete amateur. So many misconceived cliches in the RUclips DSLR community. Oh well. Lol.
Number 1 tip: COMPOSITION. Amateur filmmakers dont understand composition of film, they forget the rule of thirds, they place subjects in the wrong places, and they are terrible at tracking movement. Thats the number 1 tip; any cinematographer knows how to compose a shot and thats why hollywood films look "cinematic". Of course you have to be creative, but properly composed images is what makes or breaks the look of your production.
Great video, but is it normal for a rendered footage on Adobe CS6 too be a massive size? Example when I edited like 2 mins of video the size is in GBs. Thanks
It depends on your output format - minimally compressed footage can quickly become massive! If you want to decrease the size, H264 does a good job of small file sizes but loses quite a lot of detail.
Depends on the output format, as Jake Coppinger says. However I mainly get this with e.g. completely uncompressed AVI from e.g. After Effects. If I am using Adobe Media Encoder and go for one of the h.264-presets (there are presets specifically for RUclips videos, if your happy with an "okay" quality. Then you will definitely get away with a quite small file size.
Its quite usual for footage to be large during the editing size. With some of the stuff I have been doing it can be several GB per minute. Try to keep the footage as uncompressed as possible until the final mix down can reduce the loss of quality.
Output at a lower bitrate, maybe lower framerate, try lower resolution, not rendering at maxium depth? How about your video codec? There is a lot to consider here, all of those things affect your video file size plus much more.
Community Watch Haha okey, I've been back for 2-3 weeks now, but the vlogging... I don't know how to make the video. I can edit a bit and stuff, but still, so much material to go through.
+chelsea allen You can get great results with just about any software if you put in the effort to learn about it! Personally I'm a fan of Adobe Premiere - it runs on Windows as well as Mac OS X. Some people prefer Apple Final Cut X which has quite a different interface. Then there are others such as Avid Media Composer, Sony Vegas, and Blackmagic Design DaVinci Resolve (which has a great free version). Have a go with the trials and see which you are most comfortable with!
Yeah man, also it seems like an easy way out, there is not one cinematic look. Every film has a unique look and it can suck or be beneficial to the story that's being told
Thank you for instilling confidence in me. I've been trying to learn how to set my video settings right with my DSLR, but I've struggled to feel confident about them. Thanks again!
My cousin has a DSLR and she is going to be going to College soon for a degree in photography and I would like to take her pictures and make them look great and figured this would help as far as the editing part. Thanks :)
This guy is an actual legend! He's an inventor, talked on TEDx Sydney and is an amazing videographer. Great job man!
Thanks!
+Jake Coppinger its great to see that you reply to comments on your youtube videos. im a huge fan. and also, is swirlesque coming to market, and if so, when?
+Sir Maxwell I don't believe I will take it to market, but I have learned a lot from the process of developing it.
I will be studying Computer Science at university this year, so keep a look out for more products at jakecoppinger.com!
+Jake Coppinger awesome man, will do!
+Jake Coppinger plese answear :) what is the name of the movie making pogram? :)
DO NOT add black bars to your footage to achieve the cinematic wide screen look. This does not change the aspect ratio, it keeps the footage at 16:9 but with black bars. the easiest and correct way to achieve the ultra wide screen aspect ratio is to change the aspect ratio of your sequence in premiere. this way, your finished project is already in a standard aspect ratio and will make it look like you know what you are doing. if you were to work for a prodcution studio and turn in a finished product that was a 16:9 aspect ratio but you added letter box bars, they are instantly going to question your professionalism and knowledge of video production. any video platform whether it is television, youtube, vimeo, a theater, etc will add the black bars itself to fit the format of the finished product.
Understandable. But exactly what procedure would you do, say in Premiere Pro CC 2018? Anything I've tried (pixel aspect ratio adjustment) forces the image to fit into the new aspect ratio, distorting the final image.
Sequence --> Sequence settings and there ypu can change it. But it will cut off some parts off your video --> just recenter/ adjust position of it so that the "important" stufg is still visable
RUclips shows these wide aspect ratio weirdly in theatre mode if we don't add bars in 16:9. I understand that, for a professional render, aspect ratio of render must be wide and not 16:9, but his explanation is good for RUclips purposes.
@flmvdvsrg no, because then when you play it full screen with a wide monitor it will have pillarboxing and letterboxing, which is ridiculous.
Or if possible, shoot in that aspect ratio. Then, you can decide there and then while shooting what to and what not to include in the shot
Don't forget, if your shot is overexposed when you're outside (or anywhere for the matter), and you're at your lowest ISO and you don't want to loose either you depth of field or your set shutter speed, you can use ND (Neutral Density) Filters. They'll take your camera's exposure down certain amounts of stops depending on what filter you use, which enables you to maintain exactly or closer to the exact f/stop and or shutter speed that you wanted.
I forgot to mention this in the video, but I put in the description when I published. You're exactly right!
hands down to anyone who starts their tutorial first and foremost without any advertising words and sentences and get to the point. thank you so much for being like this.
"You don't always know what you want, until you see it" - That's some philosophical shit right there.
eat that turd p h a m
Don't get confused into specific technology because no one knows but you what made your masterpiece just by looking at it.
1080p is plenty as long as you understand your equipments capabilities and know how to edit.
See the edit in your head as you film using a story boad if required.
Artistic flare and nice lenses are crucial.
Be satisfied with your budget and your equipment.
@@untitled1532 Is that Macbeth 🤣
I remember about 15 years ago, way before RUclips existed, I was a part of a film forum and people were discussing how to do the effect of music videos and the intro scene in Gladiator, and I kept telling people it was "shutter speed," and NO ONE else was agreeing with me. People said I was wrong. It was so frustrating. LoL
Epic Benjo i felt you
You were wrong, it's shutter angle not speed for the gladiator effect. Specifically 45 degree. The jerky motion seen in the video with the cars is a mismatch artifact caused by a combination of incorrectly set shutter speed/fps with rolling shutter which is an issue in motion on DSLR cameras with smaller sensors.
@@RichyGuyInTheChair There is NO SUCH THING AS SHUTTER ANGLE in any digital camera. Stop spreading this lie. Shutter angle is from the film days with half-moon mechanical shutters. Shutter angle does not exist in the digital world.
@@RichyGuyInTheChair He's an idiot. His channel is full of criticizing videos about filmmaking yet his own is pretty worst!
@@RichyGuyInTheChair Yep...! DSLR is not always best for shooting video, despite great sharp pictures, with limited DOF. They are an annoying shape for shooting video, don't have XLR sockets, have limited shooting times, and kinda look amateurish... you know, a stills guy using his camera to shoot video, because he doesn't have a video camera - unless, as a pro, you lash on all the supplementary gear necessary to make it shoot like a video camera! Which makes it clumsy as hell! There's a lot still to be said for the purpose-designed video camera, with all the necessary controls at your fingertips...!
"Because you don't always know what you want until you see it"
Well-said sir! Thank you for the video.
Not always, even you can see something can deceive you.
a tip for 3:55 - ISO settings: you can use filters on the DSLRs to not sacrifice depth of field (just like in the old days). Hope this helps some aspiring photo/videographers.
I like how each point addressed was shown onscreen or followed up with an example, and at a decent/"patient" pace. So many videos I find for beginner's shootings tips move at too slow or too fast a pace, to the point where it's either boring or confusing to follow. This is definitely one of the more beneficial videos I've come across in my search for DSLR shooting knowledge, and that's saying something considering this video is years old now.
I'm a complete newbie to both DSLRs and filming, so this video was incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Its been 6 years since this comment, are you any better with filming
I freakin love this! You're literally answering THE questions we have instead of feeding us mislabeled unrequested info.
I know this video is a bit older. But can we make it trending? This was by far the best cinematography video I've EVER SEEM
You're the most easily understandable, clear, and to the point tutorial creator I've ever watched, thank you
Great video should be standard issue to anyone new to DSLRs - You have the gift of sharing whilst not talking down to your audience. Bravo!
This was one of the most helpful videos I've ever watched. Thank you so so much! It basically covers everything I want to know as a beginner and had answers to questions that no one really could answer me!
Thanks! When I begun filmmaking I found it tricky to find all the basic information so I tried to condense it into one film!
Jake Coppinger Yeah, that was exactly my problem as well until I stumbled across this video :)
Absolutely fantastic tutorial! Thank you.
NERDGASM!!!!
+Barnacules Nerdgasm Whoa! Where's the Bat-Knife.... surprised to see you here.
...everywhereeeeeee
neardgasm or focusgasm lol
😛
Best tutorial I've seen in a long time !!
Fhinq Haha!
Member of CROWN® // Editor // Germany really. this misses so many points.
I have a Canon 60D and just recently decided to start using it to film some of my vlogs. I learned so much from this short video. Thank you for sharing.
lemme check your channel though!
lmfao you're big as hell now
Thank you... thank you for breaking it down so simply. This is the mosy comprehensive tutorial of the 100's I've wached so far.I will refer to this tutorial all the time, now. Keep up the great work!!!
You are straight to the point with examples ... one of the easiest videos I have watched.
Thank you for the 21:9 aspect ratio info, youre amazing
This is still a 1080p video with 16:9 aspect radio. It's not 21:9 That's why it will look surrounded by black bars.
thisvideo doesnt tell you the correct way to achieve the 32:9 aspect ratio. you do not add bars yourself. all that does is add black bars to a 16:9 aspect ratio. the correct way is to change the aspect ratio of your entire project in sequence settings inside premiere. this way, whatever you play the video on whether it is youtube, television, vimeo, theater, or wide screen displays, the format will always adjust accordingly to the aspect ratio of the video. the bars will be added accordingly on whatever platform you watch the finished product on.
A few good guys still lives on earth. Thanks mate.
Awesome guide Jake. I can really see the production you've put into this video. The passion is really there. Great job!
+Notes On Hobbies Thanks very much!
+Jake Coppinger which software is being using while editing videos
+Arun Sharma Adobe Premiere Pro. One of the best out there
This video could not be more helpful for a growing filmmaker like me. Thank you so much, Jake!
Hello. I've been looking for how to achieve a cinematic look. With your extraordinary video, I have found the formula. No one on the web has explained better than you how to do it. Congratulations, really. You have explained it perfectly. Greetings from Spain. And thanks.
I was so unprepared for that...what just happened? I search the internet all the time...but somehow I just learned more than I ever have in 11 minutes. Blown away.
Glad you found it useful!
I really liked your running short film, and your colour grading in your winter showreel!
Thanks!! I've already used a few of your tips for my next video :)
Brilliant useful video. I'm planning to shoot footage when I'm in Japan so will go back to this video whilst in post production.
good video ... you should have mentioned ND filters though, as they are very esential to filming in daylight with wide aperture! and whats the name of the font on your video thumbnail?
I forgot to mention ND filters in the video, but I put it in the description. I used various weights of Helvetica Neue throughout the video!
offcourse, you should mention it.. because in this tutorial you said "sacrifice depth of field"
cheers man, keep going. LOVE IT
definitely the best camera i have ever bought. highly recommend.
www.amazon.com/Canon-20-2-Digital-Camera-3-0-Inch/dp/B009B0MZ8U/?tag=leacel0f-20
BLUEWIRED Hoya has always been a good company.
Canon cinema range camera are the best affordable cameras to buy - the c100 mkii has built in filters.
I’ve never used after effects but got it today. After adding just the curves and rgb color correction, my shot instantly looked amazing. Thank you
Your Cinematography, alone, made this video enjoyable. Great artist can tell a story with no dialogue, you point this out when you said color is used to express moods in film.Thank you for the information and the showcase of your abilities Jake.
This was amazing. Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
This video has the best short quick tutorial for colour grading i've seen yet
THANKYOU!! SO MUCH FOR THIS INFO I WROTE DOWN EVERYTHING I NEED TO KNOW TO START!!
Jake, you have no idea how helpful this to me. I’ve been searching for a long time of how to achieve cinematic look and now I thank you!
Nicely done, a great start for most people. Even here in 2020, this 2014 advice still holds. Amazing what holds up over time, and what doesn't.
@4:00 I just use a variable ND Filter....it's a shot-saver if you want a shallow depth of field in bright daylight.
Agreed - though I forgot to mention that in the film I put it in the description.
Worth a shot: if anyone on here is a filmmaker looking for a composer, give me a shout. I've a Classical background and specialise in acoustic music, particularly piano & strings.
Sorry for cluttering your comment thread, Jake - I enjoyed your video & gave it a like ;)
wow neat seeing you here. love your music!
I subscribed
@luke im a yoga teacher creating yoga & fitness classes , i use music and always need copyright free music. if you are interested in collaborations, message me.
Luke Faulkner would love to get a reliable form of communicating! My email is manga3527@gmail.com
I would like to work with you
nice overview but your forgot a big one for the depth of field : the usage of ND filters
I did forget to mention this when I filmed it but I made a note of it in the description.
This is one of those you save for later and watch again and again . Great job
Best tutorial .. I already know these techniques for still pics but didn’t know post production would be so easy until I watched your video. Thanks.
I feel like I've learnt 11 years of film making in just 11 minutes!!!
I see what you did there
Same here
STONY1 it's not bad!
LOL, not at all.
Same here!!!
This film is ultra wide help full.
Congratulations! This is A tutorial!
Love listening to this guy breathe in before everything his says
im majoring in digital media production right now. everything i've learned so far in the 3 quarters ive been attending, this guy explained in 11 minutes. god damn
6 years later and this is still amazingly helpful, thanks man 🖤
Thank you!
What a helpful video I am grateful to you
Frame rate has a much deeper reasoning behind than 'Because we've been conditioned to equate 25p (UK) with a cinema look'. One skin deep perception would be that we've been conditioned to it. A more scientific perspective (the way 24p was arrived at in the first place some 40 years ago) is that 24p allows for BOTH a realistic motion blur as well as a slow enough framerate to be perceived by our brains as unrealistic or 'not real life'. It is readily accepted by the brain because it is so slow compared to our brain's ~40 moments per second for literally 'real life'. 24p leaves the image very artistically trustworthy and far from the uncanny valley mental rejection of an unreal thing looking 'close but not quite close enough' to real life itself (like androids).
All this 60hz 'modern' imaging built in as the preset in modern tv's is destroying the way people perceive the cinematic. I can spot the higher framerates in a heartbeat, but apparently most other people only see it subconsciously. There is just too much visual information in those higher framerates for something to look cinematic. The high framerate image says LOOK EVERYWHERE where a good 24/25p image easily says "Just look right here".
I would have liked to go into more detail into why 24 or 25fps is used for film, but I was trying to keep the length of the video manageable! I agree, I don't appreciate the high frequency setting on TVs for film.
Very interesting comment
When you say 60 Hz in your comment your mean 60 frames per second video, right?
When you say the mind processes at 40 moments per second, well, from what I've heard you can see the difference between 60 fps and 120 fps
Anyway I tend to agree with your thoughts that video shot at 60 fps says "look everywhere" and loses the integrity of 24 fps
killy731 Hz in television refers to the refresh rate, when a new image is presented on screen, as far as I know. In practical terms though, tv's internally now do something called frame interpolation, creating new intermediate 'averaged' frames to forcibly make 30p video into 60p or 60hz playback. Lots of tv's are advertising 120hz or 240hz and the only result in my book is that it makes every images not shot at that kinda of frame rate or not meant for that refresh rate look like hell. i.e. Sports looks great because it's such a lifelike reproduction, news is fine too, but tv shows, movies, or cartoons get visually torn, very plasticky or rubbery motion because those mediums benefit from slightly more relaxed or slower framerates, a more cinematic experience.
Micah Lindstrom Wow, that's very interesting!
Super job - only thing excluded from basic knowledge which I ran across is needing to know about an ND for when you just have to cut the light at even your slowest ISO to get a decent exposure. Thanks for laying that all out.
This was a great tutorial. I've seen many, and you've given the most relevant and needed info, without all the jibber-jabber. Great work
Well, I personaly prefer to shoot at 50fps than 25, because you can always reduce the frame rate with software, but when you would like to create "slowmo" effect out of 25 fps, its going to look blury and laggy, when 50fps looks (when slowed to 25fps) focused.
So freaking simple and useful. Thank you
ITS HARD TO USE CORRECTLY
4:00 ND filter for God sake
I have had my canon rebel for at least 5 to 6 years and I just learned more about what it can do then you can imagine , thank you from the bottom of my camera bag, I just thumbed up and subscribed
This is like the best video I found for dslr to cinematic look.....many thanks
Great video man, thank you.
OMG UR HERE
No problem. Preparing for Motion Picture Film Roles & Travel. Thank you. 💯✔
GRAENOLFFFFFF
its an art..........
24 fps is for film, 25 is for TV.
I have a question. Since 24fps is for film, how can I adjust that for my Canon t6i. The settings are only 25 fps at PAL setting, and 23.976 for NTSC. I heard 23.976 and 24 are not the same. I wanted to make a cinematic approach..help
Krown DC are you sure? check the manual, there must be 24p. or else use 23.976, its p much the same thing.
At least on my 60D, when 24fps is selected it comes out as 23.976.
24 in US and 25 in Europa i think :)
Aléapsus Production ! 24 is for film (worldwide standard), 25 is for european TV and 30 is for US tv.
you are great sir....hats off to you
you explained it very calmly and precisely so that even a mere beginner can understand what is filmmaking on a budget
I really like making short films but I only recently got my first camera and this video helped a whole lot with explaining ISO, shutter, aperture, etc.❤️
Hello Jake -
Found this video real helpful.
I was just curious as to how you achieved the effect starting at 6 secs (The infographics over each character). I understand it is to do with compositing.
Would like to see a tutorial specifically on this some time (or do you already have it some place that you can point me to?)
Hi Dilson, those stats were a whole other project in themselves, for my short film Self. I did a lot of After Effects work to design them, and then used motion tracking to compose them into the scene. I don't have a tutorial yet (I'm definitely looking into it) but if you search for tutorials on heads up displays of Iron Man style graphics you will find some good tutorials!
Thank you. Hope I will get to see a tutorial someday.
great tutorial, thank you dude :)
Glad you liked it!
Great video,
but one thing i don't even understand, that everybody uses this freaking 2.35 ratio crop template. In Premiere it's so easy to add it, before exporting, by adjusting the resolution and setting it to not scaling. Then u have less render times, and youtube won't care anymore, and support the format correctly. The problem is that u can watch the movie with youre freaking letherboxes on a 16:9 monitore and it looks like 2.35:1, but on a 2.35:1 it will be smaler because the monitore thinks it is 16:9 and tawoosh you have black boxes in every side of the video. Hope one day everybody understands
What what? Really? I should rethink my life
agreed with this comment. no need for the bars. either export cropped or do the composition at 2.35:1 then its correct for ultra wide screen devices.
great video tho and thanks for the color grading tips
+Vox Dark Does anyone know how can I export like Vox Dark said from final cut pro?
No sry, don't have final cut Pro X... But i think google will help :)
I think a blue overlay also conveys a sense of adventure and wandering into the unknown. An example of this is shown in "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty", where there is a LOT of blue hues to the film, as the main character travels to foreign lands.
Instantly on that first shot I knew it was Canberra! Had a feeling and then all the other shots confirmed it.
The video itself was massively helpful.
thanks!
My opinion on post-production stabilizers: They look like shit 99% of the time.
Fair point - they do come out horrible quite a lot.
This is because most people do not use them on the correct shots. It isn’t designed to interpret how the camera moves with the subject. If you are serious about video production, I’d invest in a gimbal, and shoot b-roll at a faster frame-rate so that you can slow it down in post giving it more of a buttery movement.
Try reelsteady. It's what the new go pro uses
If i have to stabilize footage i would just track the camera and just match the motion of the footage to the tracking data then just crop and done butter smooth with no distortion or weird artifacts
Warp stabilizer all day😂
wow this perpect what i ever seen!
Thanks you so much
Great tutorial! Thanks
this is among the best tutorials on youtube! well done!
I like it. I find adjusting contrast and light help too.
when shooting a overexposed video? what should i adjust? the shutterspeed or the aperture? i saw that the shutterspeed can also affect the light that is coming on camera.
Cong TV its safe to go to 1/100 or as some people told me 1/150 in order to keep from overexposing. but ideally lower the aperture and iso, if youre still afraid of changing the shutter speed buy yourself an nd filter
Cong TV
Sometimes going to aperture 5.6 isn't a bad idea it would be easily to keep things in focus and 5.6 is the place where most lenses perform the sharpest results at ISO 100-800
+Cong TV You can use a faster shutter speed but it removes motion blur and can
make the footage look jerky.
An experiment you can try is to shoot footage of something like a waterfall at
lets say 1/50 second and then much faster. I managed to get 1/2000 last when I
tried it. Then look at the resulting footage. They look quite different.
Cong TV POWER!
Get a matte box and throw a Neutral Density filter in front of it.
Alright good video, good points but this video has a few inaccurate points, as a DP this really makes me happy and sad at the same time, it makes me happy that you are trying to help the community but at the same time it makes me sad because there are alot points wrong here.
You are right about the shutter speed and shutter angle thing, but you missed a few points and i can hope i can help you out here.
So to sums things up for you that you did right :
1/48 Check
2.35 letterboxing check ( a very cliche way of making the ''film'' look btw )
Now here comes where you and 95% of the (Canon) DSLR making community falls into a pit. which is Dynamic range, do not kill your highlights and shadows while grading, never do this never ever do this, its called the film look for a reason, actuall FILM (4 perf 35mm kodak film) has a HUGE dynamic range, so dont kill it in post production.
Next up is grading, grading is cool its alright but grading according to ''film'' standards really means trying to simulate film stock ( the look you see in the movies ) so that usually means using a lut instead of using some preset which kills skin tones and makes your video look everything but the film look, because the moment you screw with skin tones you bassicly killed your look. I suggest you to study the color of film ( google this : Kodak 52199, Fujifilm etc to get references)
and at last always add a litle bit of film grain to get that film texture.
Goodluck
You've got some good advice in your comment but I don't think what the online DSLR community refers to as the "Film look" is actually about reproducing the look of photographic film anymore.
Sure, I think at the beginning it was, but the term is now used to refer to the general visual style of "Films" rather than "Photographic film".
Yes, and that is pretty sad... its the actual big subscriber base guys that are mis informed about this aswell, hence the reason why i really dont see anyone with real good looking pictures anymore.
Oh well, you are born a DP like Pfister said and you are made a cameraman ;)
You read my mind lol.
It's a huge misconception to get a DSLR and nifty fifty and bam you're making movies.
But these people always look like complete amateurs with their over grading and destroying whatever dynamic range they had (which wasn't much to begin with).
I always see the overdone blue tones and cringe.
Haha, i feel the same way, and quite frankly i made the same mistake years ago. while it is possible to create beatifull images with a 550d and a 50mm 1.8 IF you know what you are doing, ive seen video shot on a 550d that looked like it was hot on a red or something, and then again i have seen video that were shot on a red that looked like it was shot on a dslr...
Bare max that you can push out of a DSLR is 9 stop, MAX 10 stops of dynamic range, the camera that i use the the 5D3 with modified firmware called Magic Lantern which enable's me to shoot uncompressed 14bit RAW video ( or dng sequences, what ever you want to call it lol ) and gives me 12 to 14 stops of DR.
I have found my way of finding the look trough self study and researching all of this myself.
Also the people who mastrubate over the whole 4k thing are amateurs aswell.
Like i said, you have wanna-be cinematographers like the guy in this video ( sorry for being harsh ) and you have true film heart cinematographers who have a sense of this magical thing called film
Totally. I also forgot to mention the overdone, DOF. Makes me wanna scream at my laptop. Lol. That's why I mentioned that 50 1.8 in the first place.
Tbh, I own a 550D and used my Nifty Fifty recently.
It's all in the guy behind the camera. I'm not saying I'm pro, but I just wish I could make these people realise how unprofessional it looks.
I've seen short films on the T2i that looked straight from a movie. And just as you said, I've seen red footage look like a complete amateur.
So many misconceived cliches in the RUclips DSLR community.
Oh well. Lol.
Number 1 tip: COMPOSITION. Amateur filmmakers dont understand composition of film, they forget the rule of thirds, they place subjects in the wrong places, and they are terrible at tracking movement. Thats the number 1 tip; any cinematographer knows how to compose a shot and thats why hollywood films look "cinematic". Of course you have to be creative, but properly composed images is what makes or breaks the look of your production.
My favourite video on RUclips right now. Thanks so much. Subscribed!
I am glad that I have found this video. Amazing Tutorial and you can't get this even in 6 months classes which i got in just 11 minutes. :) Thank you!
Thanks
متع ذهنك واو ماذا افعلون هنا 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
متع ذهنك تفعلون**
عرب غيري ....جوووود
Great video, but is it normal for a rendered footage on Adobe CS6 too be a massive size? Example when I edited like 2 mins of video the size is in GBs. Thanks
It depends on your output format - minimally compressed footage can quickly become massive! If you want to decrease the size, H264 does a good job of small file sizes but loses quite a lot of detail.
Depends on the output format, as Jake Coppinger says.
However I mainly get this with e.g. completely uncompressed AVI from e.g. After Effects.
If I am using Adobe Media Encoder and go for one of the h.264-presets (there are presets specifically for RUclips videos, if your happy with an "okay" quality. Then you will definitely get away with a quite small file size.
Its quite usual for footage to be large during the editing size. With some of the stuff I have been doing it can be several GB per minute. Try to keep the footage as uncompressed as possible until the final mix down can reduce the loss of quality.
Output at a lower bitrate, maybe lower framerate, try lower resolution, not rendering at maxium depth? How about your video codec? There is a lot to consider here, all of those things affect your video file size plus much more.
this video helped a lot. thank you
Easy to unterstand ...best help of the last 4 years! THNX!
There's a lot here that's of use to me. Nice and concise. Many thanks. Keep 'em coming please.
SO DAMM USEFUL!!!! Thank you very much Sir! Greetings from Holland
I love Holland and i wish all the best to you and your husband (bf?).
If I want to make a cool video of my 1 week holiday on a tropical island, should I do it vlog style... or go for a more cinematic look? Can't decide.
Vlog style
okey, deal.
Community Watch Haha okey, I've been back for 2-3 weeks now, but the vlogging... I don't know how to make the video. I can edit a bit and stuff, but still, so much material to go through.
thats the toughest part
Septimus go with cinematic!
Great tutorial but the cheesy lens flare at the stairs scene almost ruined it for me.
What a wonderful tutorial! Thank yo for sharing.
Definitely the most helpful video I have seen for achieving a cinematic look..I had no idea where to start. Thank you!
Genius
Great tutorial! I wanted know what editing software do you recommend?
+chelsea allen You can get great results with just about any software if you put in the effort to learn about it! Personally I'm a fan of Adobe Premiere - it runs on Windows as well as Mac OS X. Some people prefer Apple Final Cut X which has quite a different interface. Then there are others such as Avid Media Composer, Sony Vegas, and Blackmagic Design DaVinci Resolve (which has a great free version). Have a go with the trials and see which you are most comfortable with!
+Jake Coppinger awesome thanks I will the ones compatible with my windows os. Great suggestions! You're awesome.
+Jake Coppinger what version of adobe premiere do u use
+abhigyan ray he is using adobe premiere pro cs6
So it doesn't matter who's behind the camera?
It still matters though.
Well, yes it definitely matters because the camera operator has to know a lot of this.
I can't wait to undertake this tutorial Jake. Thanks a million for a wonderful informative and super quality tute.
the most comprehensive video out there . thank you very much sir
Weird thing is, that none of the footage shown had the cinematic look. So I'm not sure, if these tips work...
Yeah man, also it seems like an easy way out, there is not one cinematic look. Every film has a unique look and it can suck or be beneficial to the story that's being told
Also 24fps is how the human eye perceives things.
Not at all. The human eye does not see frames?!?!?!? Frames are a concept created for creating a moving image.
3:58 Good thing ND Filters exist
From Tanzania and you have made my Future brighter
Most people think color grading the shit out of your shots is nice looking. No, it looks like you color graded the shit out of it. Like this video
Q: Which font did you use at the very beginning of your video?
+Matthieu Pesesse I think it maybe Helvetica Neue LT Std 25 UltraLight (Adobe)
How you do that beam of light at 6:46? Thanks.
Using a lens flare plugin, for example Video Copilot optical flares
Okay..you helped me alot!
Things you love to watch but will never do in real life.
Speak for yourself :)
Funny, i hate watching tutorials especially the really techy ones, but need it to actually get my work done lol
Thank you for instilling confidence in me. I've been trying to learn how to set my video settings right with my DSLR, but I've struggled to feel confident about them. Thanks again!
My cousin has a DSLR and she is going to be going to College soon for a degree in photography and I would like to take her pictures and make them look great and figured this would help as far as the editing part. Thanks :)