THE GIRTH HITCH MASTERPOINT

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  • Опубликовано: 20 дек 2021

Комментарии • 179

  • @CodyBradford
    @CodyBradford  2 года назад +4

    Before commenting, please read this first: staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/research/girthhitch.pdf

    • @devkkev9066
      @devkkev9066 Год назад

      very nice written and explained! thanks.. may u have more on different, better said other topics? could I somehow contact you and maybe even ask youba few questions?
      hopefully my vocabulary and grammar is acceptable.. wish you a nice day!

    • @devkkev9066
      @devkkev9066 Год назад

      *keep up the awesome work! really just so nice you give this information and make it accessible to everyone who's interested innit!! thanks again..

    • @juliencarrillo8494
      @juliencarrillo8494 Год назад

      Point is GH takes less rope than f8 but ''tests also revealed significant variability among slip values, ranging from 2.5 to 21.5cm '' so you might want at least 21,5 cm

    • @michaelblake9948
      @michaelblake9948 Месяц назад

      So reading the research there’s slippage involved so depending on where the break is and taking into account slippage it may not be redundant is my take.

  • @seasonti8312
    @seasonti8312 Год назад +72

    RIP you will forever live in our memories through these videos.

    • @jayheikkeinen2000
      @jayheikkeinen2000 Год назад

      He dead ?

    • @seasonti8312
      @seasonti8312 Год назад

      @@jayheikkeinen2000 committed suicide

    • @jayheikkeinen2000
      @jayheikkeinen2000 Год назад +4

      @@seasonti8312 man this is heartbreaking. Check in on your people

    • @seasonti8312
      @seasonti8312 Год назад +1

      @@jayheikkeinen2000 heck yeah I loved watching his videos. At least he wanted his followers to be better climbers and be safe.

    • @chk859
      @chk859 Год назад

      What happened

  • @alankammerman6684
    @alankammerman6684 2 года назад +79

    Is that redundant though? If one of the carabiners on the anchor failed, would the friction in the girth hitch be enough to keep the sling from coming undone? Especially in a shock loading scenario. Just curious.

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +41

      Yes! My friend and Mountain Guide at Weber State University in Utah has a paper on it. I tried to paste it here, but for some reason RUclips is not allowing it. A quick Google search should see it through.
      I also have done testing on the girth hitch with Petzl and the AMGA and it showed redundancy under all climbing scenarios tested.
      Under a slow pull at incredible loads (those seen in slack lining for example) it is not redundant in some instances.

    • @alankammerman6684
      @alankammerman6684 2 года назад +5

      @@CodyBradford Awesome, good to know! Thanks for the info, ill definitely look into it.

    • @nickbrannon3251
      @nickbrannon3251 2 года назад +21

      There are definitely some dissenting opinions and testing. I would not trust a girth hitch to be redundant

    • @patrickwalker6327
      @patrickwalker6327 2 года назад +1

      @@deapthought1156 in defense of Cody hownot2 was doing a break test which does not represent actual climbing activities.

    • @akaTheDevil
      @akaTheDevil 2 года назад

      Came here to say the same thing.

  • @lepus6511
    @lepus6511 2 года назад +9

    My favorite part about the climbing community is watching you guys argue about every little thing. Definitely a fun group to be around!

  • @pear7777
    @pear7777 Год назад +15

    Not hindered by any form of climbing knowledge, but quite familiar with knots and ropes, imho it is not redundant, there's a scenario here where the sling breaks, and it will all come loose.

  • @BlackPantherClimbing
    @BlackPantherClimbing Год назад +4

    Fun fact: girth hitch lessens the strength of the rope by half, given the distribution of force

    • @gregschlosser922
      @gregschlosser922 Год назад +3

      Hownot2 debunked this. However, even if they didn't, would you be concerned if your 24kn sling went down to 12kn. That's as high/higher than all your nuts and cams.
      You're also belaying from above in this situation, so I'd be amazed if you could even get to 2kn on a fall.

    • @BlackPantherClimbing
      @BlackPantherClimbing Год назад

      @@gregschlosser922 That is interesting, I will have to watch his video.
      To answer your question, yes I would be concerned. There's many more factors to consider than just "kn forces" so many, that it is impossible to truly get a solid, set point of guarantee failure.
      That being said, carabiners, slings, etc, way too often break with far less force than they are rated for. So, to lessen that amount is just stupid.
      I will ask you the same kind of question that you just asked me with different words. Would you be concerned if your carabiner was cross or side loaded? Cause "you'll never generate that much force"?
      Again, my answer is: yes, I would be concerned.

    • @coolbro5931
      @coolbro5931 Год назад

      ​@@BlackPantherClimbing you are stupid

  • @thomchambers6469
    @thomchambers6469 11 месяцев назад

    But if one bolt fails, would the system not just come unsecured? Looks like it would just slip through?

  • @McCrag
    @McCrag 2 года назад +17

    Why not just do a sliding X?

  • @paulschweissbrenner
    @paulschweissbrenner Год назад +15

    Why not doing a "sliding X"?

    • @jacobbaum4561
      @jacobbaum4561 Год назад

      Not enough material and the sliding is is hard for your follower to tether to 👍. Since the sliding x is self equalizing.

  • @lewisrichards6572
    @lewisrichards6572 2 года назад +3

    Thanks for the video, Can’t wait to play with this system!

  • @thanjay1867
    @thanjay1867 2 года назад +11

    I'm purely a sport climber, and maybe a bit old school, but it just looks so weird having metal on metal like that. Just get a double length runner or some cord, much easier

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +10

      I hear you. As someone who started climbing whilst this was still a popular idea, it initially made me uncomfortable.
      It took a great deal of research (both read and participated in with companies) and historical misconceptions to realize where the idea came from and why it is inaccurate.
      Historically, this idea is from a time of more normalized mixed metal usage (steel vs aluminum). Over long periods of time, this can cause galvanic corrosion, but this typically happens from long term usage (bolts with additional hardware). Nowadays, the areas in which we would use this kind of system is primarily with aluminum. There is no issue with bodyweight at an anchor with this kind of use of metal to metal.
      Also, in this context, it is best to utilize a carabiner designed to withstand this kind of tiaxial loading. In this case, a dedicated HMS style carabiner.

    • @UNcommonSenseAUS
      @UNcommonSenseAUS Год назад +1

      ​@@CodyBradford negative. it's because of mechanical leverage in twisting events popping gates.

  • @fredjr.8691
    @fredjr.8691 2 года назад +7

    It’s interesting, but I have my doubts about that girth hitch being redundant, especially if you were to jumar on it. For limited material like the situation you described, the magic X would probably be best. Also, locking carabiners from the anchors to the sling would be good, but I understand that wasn’t the point of the video.

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +3

      Totally understandable to be skeptical, however it has been tested thoroughly. So long as the girth hitch is weighted under bodyweight first, it is indeed redundant. Under climbing scenarios, this system is good to go. It also does not introduce a serious shock load issue that is created something like the sliding x.
      The girth also has the advantage of being able to be used with any anchor situation, including edge-case scenarios where a potential failure would cause a shock load and subsequent anchor failure of using self-adjusting systems like the quad or sliding-x.

    • @deapthought1156
      @deapthought1156 2 года назад

      Its not redundant. ruclips.net/video/-MmX8h4F0po/видео.html

  • @sebastianloessl7982
    @sebastianloessl7982 2 года назад +3

    if you were to just use one ring as the masterpoint and add a quickdraw to the second bolt for redundancy, it wouldnt fullfil any of those fancy acronyms, but realisticaly, it would still be good enough, right?

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      Yep! I would say so. Those rings are getting popular.

  • @dirtysouthclimbing
    @dirtysouthclimbing Год назад

    Sweet! I usually do an overhand knot. I’m gonna change to this now!

  • @andrewmason1301
    @andrewmason1301 Год назад +1

    If you feel so comfortable with that technique, remove one side of the anchor and rapel or lower or take a bid fall on just one side. Bring the proper gear and using a short cut isn't necessary.

  • @figure8out897
    @figure8out897 Год назад +2

    I'd probs only use this as like a past resort rappel point if I was desperate. So basically never. That girth hitch will slip at 4kns, and any kind of cyclic loading i.e jumaring, a rappel with lots of obstacles and features, could also cause slipping. Definitely a last resort

  • @chrismcwilliams4031
    @chrismcwilliams4031 2 года назад +30

    Remember when you tie a girth hitch, it loses 50% of it's strength.
    Also a big fall would definitely untie this anchor should a caribeener brake.
    I could not recommend this...

    • @Jfran-nj3dz
      @Jfran-nj3dz 2 года назад +2

      I believe that is true for all knots. This would still leave the sling with 11kn of strength which is plenty of strength.

    • @DaneFerolin
      @DaneFerolin 2 года назад +3

      Hes a mountain guide

    • @gbay5250
      @gbay5250 2 года назад +2

      @@DaneFerolin doesn't mean he knows the physics of knots, especially a super static material like dyneema. Figure eight knot preferably, or overhand with a locker in the system to make untying easier after loading it

    • @DaneFerolin
      @DaneFerolin 2 года назад +1

      @@gbay5250 okay Mr mountain guide

    • @gbay5250
      @gbay5250 2 года назад +1

      @@DaneFerolin that's so sick dane, lmk if you ever got off boulders

  • @atlas4225
    @atlas4225 Год назад +1

    Is it good to use aluminum carabiners on one another? I thought they pick up burs and have potential to cut your ropes. I may be wrong. My technique is 20+ years old

  • @victor03rd
    @victor03rd Год назад

    imho, not redundant because tensil strength of sling is still the linear max, not double. it will be single strength at horizontal "over" strand of sling. simple tension physics.

  • @davidhamilton7
    @davidhamilton7 Год назад

    I tried this out and it seems pretty solid.

  • @julienmka9592
    @julienmka9592 2 года назад

    Aren't you loading the gate side of your HMS here ?(your belay device really seems to be loading the gate side in case of a fall )

  • @noonesenemy89
    @noonesenemy89 Год назад

    What if the sling breaks. Not really redundant, is it?

  • @trex283
    @trex283 Год назад

    If one fails you could still fall since the rope might just slip through?

  • @PA-bu5cs
    @PA-bu5cs Год назад +5

    I would not say that this is redundant without a knot - and it’s also really weird with mental to mental.

    • @davidhamilton7
      @davidhamilton7 Год назад +1

      Yeah, if you attached the HMS biner then tied an overhand, you'd have two strands on each length and it doesn't take up much space.

  • @jacobmccoury7891
    @jacobmccoury7891 2 года назад +1

    Don’t die mufasa

  • @tl124
    @tl124 Год назад

    That is not a redundant tie-off. You still HAVE only one sling attached to two anchors - no back-up. If that sling fails, so do you....

  • @bhgraf08
    @bhgraf08 Год назад

    Perfectly simple.

  • @PercivalThe23
    @PercivalThe23 Год назад

    he really likes carabiner!

  • @billcarr2560
    @billcarr2560 Год назад

    As a tree climber, screw gate carabineers just don't seem safe to me. Our industry standard is to use a triple locking carabineer. In my early days before I knew any better I actually had a screw gate open on me thankfully it wasn't my only tie in, or I'd be dead. Could a rock climber please explain to me why y'all use screw gates instead of triple lockers.

    • @jaredlackey9177
      @jaredlackey9177 6 дней назад

      Many climbers don't like them because they can be difficult to deal with at the top of a pitch when you're gassed and your hand strength is gone. Also, you have to think about the environments. Screw gates are simpler mechanisms and have fewer issues with grit or ice getting in there. One of my triple lockers grinds every time you open it because a tiny amount of grit got in there. I use all types, but I prefer twist locks because they auto lock, but aren't so difficult with tired hands. Don't forget that weight is a huge issue too. The vast majority of carabiners that climbers use are wire gates like at the top of his anchor. A screw gate is already way safer than that.

  • @stick9758
    @stick9758 Год назад

    How do climbers get their gear back?

  • @mrdavidurquhart
    @mrdavidurquhart Год назад

    What is an HMS carabiner? A hardened metal screw closure? Help me out dudes

  • @faceindisguise85
    @faceindisguise85 2 года назад +1

    Metal on metal connection no go

  • @Youshouldnthavedonedat
    @Youshouldnthavedonedat Год назад

    I have never searched cliff anything , why ?

  • @timpsmart
    @timpsmart 2 года назад

    Joining one carabiner to another is not good practice, they're not designed for that. Only for "soft" connections, especially if subjected to high dynamic forces such as belaying

  • @GrahamCracker81
    @GrahamCracker81 2 года назад

    Awesome tip

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      Cheers, my friend! Will try to start utilizing this platform more often. I have way more on Instagram, however it is getting more challenging to use.

  • @odrumcmydna
    @odrumcmydna Год назад

    you have successfully constructed a fantastic shear point under potential shock load. Please don’t do this just because it saves You 22 seconds…..

  • @lek2266
    @lek2266 Год назад

    Нельзя же такие карабины нагружать на 3 точки. Если я правильно вас понял

  • @blackcatlullaby
    @blackcatlullaby 2 года назад

    How about using a figure eight belay device, instead of the hms?

    • @hack2729
      @hack2729 2 года назад

      He's using a tuber I think

  • @otm646
    @otm646 Год назад +6

    Talk to a sailor who does this for a living, not you amateur climbers. That girth hitch is not redundant. I personally witnessed them fail and pull through.

  • @bertramstier2540
    @bertramstier2540 Год назад

    Forgot the magic X.

  • @Jordan-Norr
    @Jordan-Norr Год назад

    🔥

  • @christinapankey1415
    @christinapankey1415 2 года назад +2

    There is zero redundancy

  • @willek1335
    @willek1335 2 года назад +2

    HMS carabiner?

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +5

      Halbmastwurf sicherung. (Literally, Half a Clove Hitch). These carabiners are designed to accept the symmetry and mechanism of a Munter hitch. Wide at one end so it can accept loads over a wider surface area than standard carabiner shapes.

    • @willek1335
      @willek1335 2 года назад

      @@CodyBradford Thank you. 😊

  • @ilovemesomechickenbutimave7052
    @ilovemesomechickenbutimave7052 Год назад +2

    you explain that so good you want to be a teacher this was very informative I’m not a climber hiker but The information was spot on

  • @michaelscarborough7011
    @michaelscarborough7011 Год назад

    You could loose one of those non lockers too

  • @franhgho
    @franhgho Год назад

    No way!!

  • @Pawe-mx9wc
    @Pawe-mx9wc Год назад

    Self adjustable would be better

  • @jamesbuchanan9937
    @jamesbuchanan9937 Год назад

  • @marcchrys
    @marcchrys 2 года назад +2

    If I carried that many carabiners on a climb, I'd never get off the ground ;-)

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +1

      Haha it’s true, as a guide I do tend to carry a couple of extra lockers.

  • @kamikazemartinez
    @kamikazemartinez 6 месяцев назад

    RIP

  • @effyoo6081
    @effyoo6081 2 года назад

    I thought that a girth hitch or a knot reduces the strength of the sling by 50%. This does not seem safe to me, but I've never climbed a rock. In Florida, all we have is trees, so I'm an arborist.

    • @williamspencer1935
      @williamspencer1935 2 года назад

      Tying a knot here makes it redundant though, so if one side breaks the whole system won’t fail

    • @effyoo6081
      @effyoo6081 2 года назад

      @@williamspencer1935 redundancy is awesome! I see

    • @codykennedy8359
      @codykennedy8359 2 года назад

      Also, the slings you use for these scenarios are very over-rigged for the forces they will see in a fall:)

    • @effyoo6081
      @effyoo6081 2 года назад

      @@codykennedy8359 my sling and most are rated at 22kn. Some Dyneema is higher. That means tying a knot reduces the the strength to 11kn. That's a 2200 lb reduction, for a knot. Now, would you rather have a 44kn rating by doubling the sling over, which could handle nearly every whip ever. Or one that holds 11, but when it breaks has another 11 as a backup? I've watched hundreds break testing videos and the only knot that remains 80% is the figure 8, which is why we use them at rhe harness. For me, I'd rather not have a compromised piece of gear that could break at under manufacturer's rated kn. Besides, dyneema isn't supposed to be tied into knots, it's very slippery and can cut itself under friction.

    • @effyoo6081
      @effyoo6081 2 года назад

      @@williamspencer1935 use 2

  • @ripapa6355
    @ripapa6355 2 года назад +3

    Biner on biner makes me cringe. I came up learning never to do that. I get that it's likely fine, but still makes my spidey sense tingle

  • @stoneriverwatches
    @stoneriverwatches 2 года назад

    That’s a new one for me, thank you!

  • @kellenedmonds963
    @kellenedmonds963 Год назад

    This is what lazy climbers do. Girth hitch should only be used at the anchor point, not the master point. That is not redundant. If one leg goes, you lose all friction to keep the hitch tight. Please don't do this.

  • @CornerstoneHomeImprovement
    @CornerstoneHomeImprovement Год назад +1

    It's the gloves for me. Did you put them on just to build the anchor

  • @vigilancebrandon3888
    @vigilancebrandon3888 2 года назад

    Is this for top roping?

  • @darkmandrake69
    @darkmandrake69 Год назад

    😔

  • @chynaglass1692
    @chynaglass1692 Год назад +3

    NoW iT’s ReDunDaNt

  • @mmorrison1772
    @mmorrison1772 Год назад +1

    Sliding X will balance the load between the anchors even if the angle of load changes.

  • @Pawe-mx9wc
    @Pawe-mx9wc Год назад +1

    Whenever we working with limited amount of material, we need extra hms carabiner, wtf

  • @paulkeane255
    @paulkeane255 Год назад

    Biner on biner is no no.

  • @calbo4075
    @calbo4075 2 года назад

    Hmm.. your definitely putting a lot of stress on the sling.. larks foot weakens by 40%

    • @johngo6283
      @johngo6283 2 года назад

      That sling is probably rated to 22+ kN. What are you worried about?

    • @fabiobruno7133
      @fabiobruno7133 2 года назад +2

      @@johngo6283 Simple: in a fall factor 2 , 60% of 22kN are not enough to guarantee a sufficient safety factor

  • @MichaelRobinson-od6mr
    @MichaelRobinson-od6mr Год назад

    The larks foot is the weakest knot

  • @nickprince7971
    @nickprince7971 2 года назад

    Don't do that, it dangerous. You are reducing the strength of the sling.

    • @jackvanlierop6090
      @jackvanlierop6090 2 года назад

      Only after you increase the strength. Its doubled, then halved so theoretically it retains full strength.

    • @FlatOutFE
      @FlatOutFE 2 года назад

      No more dangerous than any other knot that would be tied.

  • @Yukanag
    @Yukanag Год назад

    Steel ring is better

  • @andreagianni5062
    @andreagianni5062 Год назад

    No no no. Cordino a strozzo 50% ridotta la tenuta. Catena di moschettoni??? No, no no.

  • @Relic_of_You
    @Relic_of_You 2 года назад

    10 out of 10 would not trust that as redundant...

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      Then I guess the research is wrong? And that my lying eyes as well as the hundreds of times I have used this system myself after seeing and actually being there when at least one of them was being performed was just not reality?

    • @dirtysouthclimbing
      @dirtysouthclimbing Год назад

      Some people still hip belay.

    • @Relic_of_You
      @Relic_of_You Год назад

      @@CodyBradford @Cody Bradford it might have worked hundreds of times, but all it takes is once.
      You also have a duty when attempting to instruct in the climbing industry to ensure what you are saying is true.
      As a professional in this industry, I'm telling you this is not redundant. Now you can learn from that and move on, or be stuck in your thoughts and change nothing. Either way it's your right. But to instruct others something incorrect... especially when it's a fatal vs not is unacceptable.

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  Год назад

      @@Relic_of_You I am literally dumbfounded… flabbergasted even…
      I just don’t know what amount of research and findings it will take to show that this system is redundant in the context I have shown.
      You can absolutely send me research to the contrary, but in the meantime, you are just incorrect.
      Calling me out in this way as if I have never had my mind changed (literally search any Instagram video in the last several years) is just asinine.

  • @cz3582
    @cz3582 2 года назад

    Ya nice. And it fails at under 2 kn in dyneema

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      No, it does not.

    • @cz3582
      @cz3582 2 года назад

      @@CodyBradford ruclips.net/video/UMuCkC3jshA/видео.html it does here. The difference between the test and a climbing fall being the duration of load.

    • @cz3582
      @cz3582 2 года назад

      @@CodyBradford 1.2 kn at 7:50. I'm all for a snappy efficient anchor, but its pretty concerning how varied the results with a girth hitch are. That being said I think 99.9 % of climbers go a lifetime without something severing a leg in one of their anchors while it's loaded with 2 kn.

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      @@cz3582 staff.weber.edu/derekdebruin/research/girthhitch.pdf
      And here we consistently got 6.5-7 KN.
      In the video you sent, it didn’t look like the girth hitch was ever cinched at all.
      Not only did this research both Weber and myself have done with Petzl show upwards of 8KN of force ability both static fall and slow pull of up to 10KN, but anecdotally I have used the girth hitch in situations such as ice climbing and rock for 5 years or more at this point without a single issue.
      2 KN is absolutely false as I have put more load on these than that with just 3 people’s bodyweight.

  • @KE29645
    @KE29645 Год назад

    Du hast vergessen dich selbst zusichern, beim einrichten des Standplatzes!! Der Mastwurf Konten ist erst später die Selbstsicherung! Bandschlingen, Daisy Chain.

  • @reesholyoak7275
    @reesholyoak7275 2 года назад

    Just use a quad

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад

      A quad definitely works well as a quick and organized solution when there are two unquestionable bolts as the anchor. However, it is ill advised to use a quad in most other scenarios as the potential for shock load in the event of a component failure is a serious issue.

  • @mattxrp
    @mattxrp 2 года назад +1

    Put a twist on on strand.....

    • @CodyBradford
      @CodyBradford  2 года назад +1

      That won't actually do anything for the redundancy as the girth hitch does not rely on the twist (extra strand) for redundancy as the sliding-x does. The girth itself is the redundancy here.

  • @noneneed
    @noneneed Год назад

    HMS. High material strength?

  • @oliviabaklaton4552
    @oliviabaklaton4552 2 года назад +1

    Danger: both first karabiners openings are directed towards the wall!
    Danger: the more HMS are in one another the more dangerous it is!

  • @sambarr7826
    @sambarr7826 6 месяцев назад

    An old system rehashed. This has limited uses, because it has catastrophic failure potential

  • @oliviabaklaton4552
    @oliviabaklaton4552 2 года назад

    Totally wrong what he is doing!
    It is a total mess! You do not put 3 HMS in oneanother!
    1. The sling must be attached to the bolts with HMS!
    2. Self assurance with HMS in the bold.
    3. To secure your partner:
    HMS in the sling like he shows it.

  • @EliteBagpiper
    @EliteBagpiper 2 года назад

    This dude… so many better ways. What a joke and an example of the degradation of outdoor adventure

    • @jackvanlierop6090
      @jackvanlierop6090 2 года назад

      I'm sorry you don't get it. It's fairly simple.

    • @EliteBagpiper
      @EliteBagpiper Год назад

      @@jackvanlierop6090 I get it and I don't iike it. The anchor or his lame pandering channel. Also the sling is technically NOT redundant. An overhand or figure 8 at the masterpoint would be better practice. A girth hitch also weakens the knot big time. A clove hitch would be much better. Also he could clip directly into bolts and not tie up the abseil slings for his anchor.

    • @jackvanlierop6090
      @jackvanlierop6090 Год назад

      @@EliteBagpiper I like how you said you get it, then proceed to demonstrate how you do not get it. Maybe watch and learn next time, instead of putting on the blinders.

    • @EliteBagpiper
      @EliteBagpiper Год назад

      @@jackvanlierop6090 Okay then, tell me what I am missing? He over complicates the anchor, and it is not redundant. Please.

    • @EliteBagpiper
      @EliteBagpiper Год назад

      And I will state again that this guy is just panderer to folks who are too scared to go learn on their own.