Thomas i haven't seen you upload any videos in a while man , im a huge fan , i have your same bike and have been working on emulating all the work you have done to yours . really enjoy your channel and everything you have shared with us , we miss u bro hope your doing ok .
That motor is a real Daytona they can be revved out to 11500 with no problems i rev out my zs190 to 10500 all the time and I recently swapped out to a 212 big bore kit and the piston looked like new with 1800 miles of street abuse on it
Yes its the fe I've leaned her out a bit on the needle and got it too 10050 I'm running the stock vader cdi I've been contemplating putting on the one that came with the Daytona when I googled it it's was the zong one tho
From what I gather there's no benefit but I don't know I'm curious problem is my Vater is a 14 with five pains but it only has four in the plug the split 6 no Daytona motor was literally plugging play with the baby I just unplugged and plugged in a new motor in a good to go the cable from the stator was exactly the same what's crazy is I think that the Vader is DC Daytona is AC it's always work so I never really looked into it the only thing I did have go wrong that's weird as heck is that my starter solenoid with getting hot on both plugs I had to eliminate the one that was supposed to be the negative wire wire ground to it and it works fine now I've always wondered if that had something to do with it
I'm pushing 8700 miles on my zs190 everything is bone stock hasn't been touched not even the clutch has been changed.. just got a Daytona 4V head, Daytona 212 BBK, SMR 7 disc clutch upgrade and SMR 30% stiffer clutch spring hopefully. Since you're piston still look like new 1800 miles I wonder what mine looks like after a lot of real hard abuse (multiple 80 plus mile per hour runs since after break in)
Take the head off and see I have been re using head gasket 3x no leaks I use silver spray paint light coat both sides I know your not supposed to use it but I figured I wanted to do some research because I believed the way they needed so thin that it would seal no problem try it out and it worked great I use the old the stock original head gasket for the 212 rebuild and I broke the head down again to check the head and then I broke it down last week to relap the valves cuz I had some leaky intake valves and there's no leaks I tested it with down tester
The company that sell bucci and ohvale the mini gp racing bike say the there for shipping so the fine don't brake and should be taken out they will case over heating if you think about it there rubber they will melt and fall off. if they were for cooling it would be aluminum like the rest of the cooling system and there no why I could stop vibrating because it's the hole engine not just the head shaking they should of put them were the engine mounts it will stop the bars from vibrating at least. Just like the engine mounts on a car engine rubber in the middle of mounts.👍👌✌️🏍️💯
My research on those rubber pieces inside the fins is that they are therefore vibration dampening. And as such, they serve a purpose that should be left installed. Great run on the engine! I just installed the PWK 28 carb you’ve had on your videos a few times on my 190 2v and it woke it up so much, you swear regained 5 hp. i’m sure it didn’t, but it sure as help pulls and rips like it.
Bro I'm telling you those carbs are the shit make them pe look weak Once you go PWK You'll never go back to PE i run PWk's and every single one of my pit bikes or China bikes wakes them up beter response that's awesome man I'm glad you like it yeah they're so cheep too man 40 bucks I can't be that my aluminum bowl fits from my 24mm on my 30mm plastc bowl cool to check float idk about lomg run min have buldged but no leaks
@@Tuckem2STOGS hell yeah man. I left the stock 38 pilot and tossed in a 120 main. I did order a slightly longer throttle cable though, the stock Vader cable works but is a bit tighter than I like.
@@tedxspeaker9164 no, not really. Any single cylinder engine is going to have vibration to a greater sense than anything else, even the old Honda Z50, ct70, 90, 110 and the newer Grom buzz and vibrate a good bit. One way to alleviate a large amount of it is to actually add a third engine mount to the bottom of the engine. Almost all of these Honda in Honda clone horizontal engines have four bolt holes into the engine casings where such amount can be placed. so what causes them to vibrate a lot is that they are a small high rpm single cylinder engine.
@@jasonjulian1 Still running my stock Vader Cable hd to take the nut of the cap Let me know if you have any problems with the bug I used to always get with my pita because a bug between like 0 and quarter throttle ish around that area and I was chasing it for months and I finally figured out was the needle I got a pack of needles but tell me what needle you got in that thing I think I'm burning the W89N which is Bang on and awesome I bought some some end 69 and then a bunch of different letters and they're a little skinny on the top where it sits in there so I had a problem with really rich idols they were like Point 2.41 and the other ones were point 2.50 at the thickest spot after the clip but above the taper these blue ones have thebest 4bstroke needel The black and red ones I had nothing but trouble until I got a pack of needles and was able to get it good but I still couldn't get rid of that rich idol it was kind of tricky but then needles was the key it's crazy these blue ones are just better Quality all around and it's hard finding needles because they're knocked off and so the numbers that these needle have are nothing to the actual like oh yeah I'm kind of numbers so it's you just gotta use your my my comment reminds your mountain to figure out everything yourself but these blue ones have been spot on no I didn't have to change the needle at all How was it getting the throttle cable on when I 1st got these style carbs it was a pain in the butt for me now I got it done quick but I was when I was changing the needles and adjusting everything oh boy was it a pain in the ass
@vsmaster6162 you haven't heard that yet I'm at like 115 hours I write like I stole it everyday but you have been thinking about getting a new pissing cylinder it's about that time I have a brand new 190 in cylinder piston but I'm thinking of getting like a force 212 and then maybe a crank thank you for the idea I want to make Bulletproof it's exceeded my expectations I figured it was not even the last 20 hours in the damn thing is just ripping like crazy at 115
Iv ported and polished the head and have ordered a DID cam chain Had about 24 hours on the motor before went up to 212 crank looks good still no play at all
nothing so far other than the starter clutch slipping but I think is because I sprayed a chain lube on the starter chain and it just got to that bearing I fixed it with carb cleaner I'm at like a 112 hours and it's still running better than ever was it's going to get to cylinder and piston time here soon and I'm worried about other things like bearings and stuff but everything I was basically worried with this motor has proved to be pretty much wrong and it's been awesome so I literally thought and expected to blow up after 20 hours or something all the research and stuff I did on the forums kind of pointed to being not that great but good power for the price so we'll see I'd rather fix things before it explodes rather than explode and fix things
@@Tuckem2STOGS thats great to hear Deffs puts my mind at more ease I honestly had not much luck getting info on any forums either seems hard to find anyone with real world experience Thanks for your reply I can’t wait to get mine dialed just looking at the right carb now maybe nibbi 32
Gracias por su contenido es de calidad Y entretenido. Es cierto que los motores daytona salen de la misma fabrica que los zongshen 190 ?. Un saludo desde España
Si, same factory for bottom, gearbox and cylinder. Not sure about the 4v head. Different clutch cover. Left and right case halves even have the same casting flaws near the crank bearing pocket. Daytona has a 15mm output shaft (vs 14 on ZS)…. I think the later ZS has the 15mm now however. Daytona comes with a CDI that should have a start retard function.
Yes they are made in the same factory and internals are relatively all the same the only difference on the datona is the cases on the covers case covers with a different the piston and the head is different and that's it everything else is the same
yeah 2000 is about the lowest unless you get a weaker de comp spring but you will still have issues if it stumbles And stalls thats what breaks the starter chain
Yeah goes to the gas early quick I'm guessing I'm probably getting 60 to 80 miles out of it maybe it's not horribly bad worldly bad it's noticeable but I still won't filled up every couple days I probably do like 30 miles when I go to Running one of these days I'll see if I get to a long ride and see if I can get to empty the tank And see how many miles I actually get Hey Do you know anything about the gas tanks mine shows all the way full and then because one bar below for everything from 1 bar below all the way down to note nothing in the gas tank I think that my resistance is messed up and I heard somebody mention me something about a calibration by looking up and setting you down I'm not sure just wondering if you knew anything about that I would like to get it fixed because it's kind of annoying Yeah basically always Showing one bar from full unless I fill it all the way up which it then says full
Ya budy z's 190 you no the dill. the decomp spring one of the small problem did you get a stronger spring or twist the original? Im watching this so I can tell what your 5 gears doing it could need the shift star mod I would do it any ways it's probably the selecter arm is poping of time to time in 5. The bolt and washer on the gear indacater make sure there tight it holds your shifter drum with shifter forks and keeps it from moving inside the engine. The only other thing it could be is the clutch system it self could be slipping. 👍👌✌️💯🔧🏍️
Maybe just cuz this one's the 212 CC it's got more of a throaty thump those 150s bark though how's your carburetor and tune what are you running I'm running the pwk flat side carburetor
Also my decomp Springs a little tight so I have to have my idle extra high so I'm running like 2500 idle that might be it also I don't know what your idol is doing it very high idle I really don't like it I'd like to get her back down about 2,000 RPMs but also my exhaust is pretty so it's inch in 3/8 but I don't have it's not like the CRF 50 style it doesn't go up into the head it basically both the flange that like holds the exhaust into the head I welded that on like flush it so it's kind of like a traditional my exhaust is a straight shot and sneak peek for you Saturday I'm getting three inch and a half mandrel bends and are you making a new exhaust system that's going to match the back of it so it's going to be all inch and 3/8 inner diameter all inch in 1/2 outer diameter but I'm going to make a loop all customer welded all myself it's going to be sick I'm excited
Thomas i haven't seen you upload any videos in a while man , im a huge fan , i have your same bike and have been working on emulating all the work you have done to yours . really enjoy your channel and everything you have shared with us , we miss u bro hope your doing ok .
Thanks appreciate your support I've got one I'm editing now had some stuff I've been dealing with but I got you
That motor is a real Daytona they can be revved out to 11500 with no problems i rev out my zs190 to 10500 all the time and I recently swapped out to a 212 big bore kit and the piston looked like new with 1800 miles of street abuse on it
Yes its the fe I've leaned her out a bit on the needle and got it too 10050 I'm running the stock vader cdi I've been contemplating putting on the one that came with the Daytona when I googled it it's was the zong one tho
@@Tuckem2STOGS I believe the Vader cdi just holds the same ignition timing from 5,000 rpm all the way up to where you’re comfortable revving it
From what I gather there's no benefit but I don't know I'm curious problem is my Vater is a 14 with five pains but it only has four in the plug the split 6 no Daytona motor was literally plugging play with the baby I just unplugged and plugged in a new motor in a good to go the cable from the stator was exactly the same what's crazy is I think that the Vader is DC Daytona is AC it's always work so I never really looked into it the only thing I did have go wrong that's weird as heck is that my starter solenoid with getting hot on both plugs I had to eliminate the one that was supposed to be the negative wire wire ground to it and it works fine now I've always wondered if that had something to do with it
I'm pushing 8700 miles on my zs190 everything is bone stock hasn't been touched not even the clutch has been changed.. just got a Daytona 4V head, Daytona 212 BBK, SMR 7 disc clutch upgrade and SMR 30% stiffer clutch spring hopefully. Since you're piston still look like new 1800 miles I wonder what mine looks like after a lot of real hard abuse (multiple 80 plus mile per hour runs since after break in)
Take the head off and see I have been re using head gasket 3x no leaks I use silver spray paint light coat both sides I know your not supposed to use it but I figured I wanted to do some research because I believed the way they needed so thin that it would seal no problem try it out and it worked great I use the old the stock original head gasket for the 212 rebuild and I broke the head down again to check the head and then I broke it down last week to relap the valves cuz I had some leaky intake valves and there's no leaks I tested it with down tester
The company that sell bucci and ohvale the mini gp racing bike say the there for shipping so the fine don't brake and should be taken out they will case over heating if you think about it there rubber they will melt and fall off. if they were for cooling it would be aluminum like the rest of the cooling system and there no why I could stop vibrating because it's the hole engine not just the head shaking they should of put them were the engine mounts it will stop the bars from vibrating at least. Just like the engine mounts on a car engine rubber in the middle of mounts.👍👌✌️🏍️💯
My research on those rubber pieces inside the fins is that they are therefore vibration dampening. And as such, they serve a purpose that should be left installed.
Great run on the engine! I just installed the PWK 28 carb you’ve had on your videos a few times on my 190 2v and it woke it up so much, you swear regained 5 hp. i’m sure it didn’t, but it sure as help pulls and rips like it.
What causes vibration on these pitbike engines besides engine mounts? Does the chinese types have bad crank balance?
Bro I'm telling you those carbs are the shit make them pe look weak Once you go PWK You'll never go back to PE i run PWk's and every single one of my pit bikes or China bikes wakes them up beter response that's awesome man I'm glad you like it yeah they're so cheep too man 40 bucks I can't be that my aluminum bowl fits from my 24mm on my 30mm plastc bowl cool to check float idk about lomg run min have buldged but no leaks
@@Tuckem2STOGS hell yeah man. I left the stock 38 pilot and tossed in a 120 main. I did order a slightly longer throttle cable though, the stock Vader cable works but is a bit tighter than I like.
@@tedxspeaker9164 no, not really. Any single cylinder engine is going to have vibration to a greater sense than anything else, even the old Honda Z50, ct70, 90, 110 and the newer Grom buzz and vibrate a good bit.
One way to alleviate a large amount of it is to actually add a third engine mount to the bottom of the engine. Almost all of these Honda in Honda clone horizontal engines have four bolt holes into the engine casings where such amount can be placed.
so what causes them to vibrate a lot is that they are a small high rpm single cylinder engine.
@@jasonjulian1 Still running my stock Vader Cable hd to take the nut of the cap Let me know if you have any problems with the bug I used to always get with my pita because a bug between like 0 and quarter throttle ish around that area and I was chasing it for months and I finally figured out was the needle I got a pack of needles but tell me what needle you got in that thing I think I'm burning the W89N which is Bang on and awesome I bought some some end 69 and then a bunch of different letters and they're a little skinny on the top where it sits in there so I had a problem with really rich idols they were like Point 2.41 and the other ones were point 2.50 at the thickest spot after the clip but above the taper these blue ones have thebest 4bstroke needel The black and red ones I had nothing but trouble until I got a pack of needles and was able to get it good but I still couldn't get rid of that rich idol it was kind of tricky but then needles was the key it's crazy these blue ones are just better Quality all around and it's hard finding needles because they're knocked off and so the numbers that these needle have are nothing to the actual like oh yeah I'm kind of numbers so it's you just gotta use your my my comment reminds your mountain to figure out everything yourself but these blue ones have been spot on no I didn't have to change the needle at all How was it getting the throttle cable on when I 1st got these style carbs it was a pain in the butt for me now I got it done quick but I was when I was changing the needles and adjusting everything oh boy was it a pain in the ass
How reliable do you think going from 190 to 212 is on the anima what issues if any have you noticed
Change crankshaft or it might explode after 5 hours
@vsmaster6162 you haven't heard that yet I'm at like 115 hours I write like I stole it everyday but you have been thinking about getting a new pissing cylinder it's about that time I have a brand new 190 in cylinder piston but I'm thinking of getting like a force 212 and then maybe a crank thank you for the idea I want to make Bulletproof it's exceeded my expectations I figured it was not even the last 20 hours in the damn thing is just ripping like crazy at 115
Iv ported and polished the head and have ordered a DID cam chain
Had about 24 hours on the motor before went up to 212 crank looks good still no play at all
nothing so far other than the starter clutch slipping but I think is because I sprayed a chain lube on the starter chain and it just got to that bearing I fixed it with carb cleaner I'm at like a 112 hours and it's still running better than ever was it's going to get to cylinder and piston time here soon and I'm worried about other things like bearings and stuff but everything I was basically worried with this motor has proved to be pretty much wrong and it's been awesome so I literally thought and expected to blow up after 20 hours or something all the research and stuff I did on the forums kind of pointed to being not that great but good power for the price so we'll see I'd rather fix things before it explodes rather than explode and fix things
@@Tuckem2STOGS thats great to hear Deffs puts my mind at more ease
I honestly had not much luck getting info on any forums either seems hard to find anyone with real world experience
Thanks for your reply
I can’t wait to get mine dialed just looking at the right carb now maybe nibbi 32
Gracias por su contenido es de calidad Y entretenido. Es cierto que los motores daytona salen de la misma fabrica que los zongshen 190 ?. Un saludo desde España
Intenté lo que me pediste, no pude resolverlo, tal vez use tu traductor para que me ayude a resolverlo, estoy más que dispuesto a trabajar para ti.
Pude traducir tu primer comentario, este último no me deja, ni siquiera puedo copiar el texto.
Thanks 😊
Si, same factory for bottom, gearbox and cylinder. Not sure about the 4v head.
Different clutch cover. Left and right case halves even have the same casting flaws near the crank bearing pocket. Daytona has a 15mm output shaft (vs 14 on ZS)…. I think the later ZS has the 15mm now however.
Daytona comes with a CDI that should have a start retard function.
Yes they are made in the same factory and internals are relatively all the same the only difference on the datona is the cases on the covers case covers with a different the piston and the head is different and that's it everything else is the same
I just ordered this motor. I hope I can turn the idle down
yeah 2000 is about the lowest unless you get a weaker de comp spring but you will still have issues if it stumbles And stalls thats what breaks
the starter chain
@@Tuckem2STOGS ruclips.net/video/NIiG2U4wi-E/видео.html
Top speed??
my max is 87
Hope that wasn't grom clone speedo reading cuz that would equal like 70 mph lol
@@Tuckem2STOGS tienes la misma moto?
1500$ bike with a 2000$ engine
thats the fun of it dude
I love the bike. What did you use for carb and jets? I have the same set up
Nibbi pwk 30mm main 120 pilot 35 I believe
With such a small gas tank that 212 must go through it fairly fast.
Yeah goes to the gas early quick I'm guessing I'm probably getting 60 to 80 miles out of it maybe it's not horribly bad worldly bad it's noticeable but I still won't filled up every couple days I probably do like 30 miles when I go to Running one of these days I'll see if I get to a long ride and see if I can get to empty the tank And see how many miles I actually get Hey Do you know anything about the gas tanks mine shows all the way full and then because one bar below for everything from 1 bar below all the way down to note nothing in the gas tank I think that my resistance is messed up and I heard somebody mention me something about a calibration by looking up and setting you down I'm not sure just wondering if you knew anything about that I would like to get it fixed because it's kind of annoying Yeah basically always Showing one bar from full unless I fill it all the way up which it then says full
Ya budy z's 190 you no the dill. the decomp spring one of the small problem did you get a stronger spring or twist the original? Im watching this so I can tell what your 5 gears doing it could need the shift star mod I would do it any ways it's probably the selecter arm is poping of time to time in 5. The bolt and washer on the gear indacater make sure there tight it holds your shifter drum with shifter forks and keeps it from moving inside the engine. The only other thing it could be is the clutch system it self could be slipping. 👍👌✌️💯🔧🏍️
Extr Wind add pull-out slack made a bend to keep tension
An extra winding of the spring its a tad too much Surprisingly it doesn't do it in this video but I think a video or 2 before is when it does it I
What should the spark plug look like
Golden brown
My 150cc don't have that growl at idle
Maybe just cuz this one's the 212 CC it's got more of a throaty thump those 150s bark though how's your carburetor and tune what are you running I'm running the pwk flat side carburetor
Also my decomp Springs a little tight so I have to have my idle extra high so I'm running like 2500 idle that might be it also I don't know what your idol is doing it very high idle I really don't like it I'd like to get her back down about 2,000 RPMs but also my exhaust is pretty so it's inch in 3/8 but I don't have it's not like the CRF 50 style it doesn't go up into the head it basically both the flange that like holds the exhaust into the head I welded that on like flush it so it's kind of like a traditional my exhaust is a straight shot and sneak peek for you Saturday I'm getting three inch and a half mandrel bends and are you making a new exhaust system that's going to match the back of it so it's going to be all inch and 3/8 inner diameter all inch in 1/2 outer diameter but I'm going to make a loop all customer welded all myself it's going to be sick I'm excited