Thank you for the video. I have a diesel A160 elegance, and last year the the emissions were high and egr & dpf valves were chocked up with soot. This was apparently because I usually drive at low revs. To fix the problem, I put a diesel additive in the fuel tank. I also warmed up the engine and gave it a good rev (3500-- 4000 revs). This burnt the carbon deposits, which spewed out of the exhaust. Before I did this, my engine was also losing power and was in 'limp mode' most of the time. Now the engine is fine, the valves are fine, it passed its emissions test, mpg has improved and power has increased as well. I decided to write this in case other people are experiencing the same problems to try and hekp them!
Mine has a 2-3 second lag when accelerating ... do you know what could cause that? When I switch the car off and on again then it goes back to normal acceleration. Is it air vents. Or electonics? Its a petrol 1999 model with only 80 000kms on the clock.
A150 owner since first day from 2005 (my mum got it new i now own it) currently at 271000km Things i had to redo at 205 000km when i got the car from mum (DIY): Gearbox bearings (100EUR) New speekers (150EUR) New window switches (40EUR) Shocks, breaks, and all ruber bushings (1000EUR) Accessory belt and pulleys (300EUR) Cluch with master cylinder (350EUR) Break lines and handbrake cable (50EUR) Headlights (300EUR) Redid the front seat structure and apolstery (350EUR) Retrofited cruse control (50EUR) Wheel bearings front (60EUR) Driver door stop (40EUR) AC condensor (70EUR) Car is sooo pratical, you can go anywhere with it, when you drop the back seats you can put a bike inside 5 people can travel all day long comfortably. AC runs great after the dryer is changes (the bigh cylinder on the condensor unit, should be changed every 8 years but no one does it) Went everywhere with the car. Plan to drive it until the engine is gone 6L on open roads or highway at 110kmph on cruse. Def recommended. Shanding wheel bearing was a fuck ton of job, dropping the engine and subframe was super simple in the backyard Before all of this the car just had the oil changed every 10k and got brakes and satbilisers a few times, so the first 200k where actually quite cheap to be honest
I bought a A150 petrol manual over 3 years ago. I didn't notice at the time but was told that the gearbox slightly noisy. I replaced the oil and the noise has gone down considerably and I have had no issues with the gearbox. I have myself replaced the front and back brake discs, easy and cheap. One problem I had was a fault code, which when scanning with a £5 OBU turned out to be a problem in the throttle body. Taking it to a garage they wanted about £700 for a new one and fitting (total rip off). A quick google showed me that this is often caused by build up of carbon in the throttle body. This was easy to take off, just remove air inlet and it is 3 bolts. There was small buildup of carbon which I cleaned off with some WD40. Fault code cleared and have had no issues since, thus saving myself £700 for about 40 mins work! Other than that, there is a slight rattle for 1 second on cold days, presumably timing chain tensioning, seems to be fine though. Only other issue is that when I bought it, the heater blower works only on full setting, Have replaced the resistor (easy) and has not fixed the problem. Probably soon I will buy a used control panel for £15 on ebay and try that, again, looks like a very easy thing to do myself. I work from my car and I can fit 3 road barriers, all tools and equipment in it very efficiently. Changing spark plugs and leads was a bit of a paiin, but not impossible with some patience and stretching. Based on my experience, I would definitely recommend this car. It is currently at 146,000 miles and as far as I can tell going strong - all for £1000 (plus some maintenance).
Mine has a 2-3 second lag when accelerating ... do you know what could cause that? When I switch the car off and on again then it goes back to normal acceleration. Is it air vents. Or electonics? Its a petrol 1999 model with only 80 000kms on the clock.
@@chereejansevanrensburg8395 I'm afraid I don't - I'm not a pro mechanic .... in my very limited knowledge - one thing that I have found a common problem on the 2 of these cars I have owned is build up of carbon in the throttle body - however this should give an engine warning light despite it not being serious. It is an easy thing to check, and probably worth doing anyway. You need to unscrew the air filter housing (3 screws as i remember) and then on your left hand side, it feeds into the throttle body, (compact metal thing - need to unclip the electrical connection). 4 bolts, you will see a valve and if it is not all shiny and nice, can use WD40 to clean off any carbon build up. Note the way throttle body bolts on (you can't get it wrong, but faster if remember :) . It literally takes 20 mins to do, there is no risk, so I would definitely do that anyway and eliminate it as a problem ... I used this video. Hope it helps, and sorry i don't have any other answer.... ruclips.net/video/z0d1fyN9YQk/видео.html
@@slumbercatI’m not sure if you still own this car, but you’ve probably found out already…you have to replace the blower fan. I replaced mine myself when the resistor didn’t fix the problem you describe. Also, the root cause is a build up of leaves and gunk in the housing where the cabin filter goes. This causes the housing to flood with rain water and this then flows into the air ducts, causing corrosion in the blower fan and also causing other electronic issues. I sorted it a couple of years ago and it’s still fine. I’m aware of the throttle body issue and intend to clean mine soon as it clearly needs it. Also, I was getting a strong fuel smell, then noticed a fuel leak near the rear, soon after filling up. Turns out the filler neck pipe is corroded, so I ordered a new one today. It’s not a bad car. Like all cars, it has its issues, but if you take some interest (as I can see you do), it’s easy to stay on top of things. My main gripe at the moment is the car takes an eternity to get warm and never really gets hot. Its winter here and I have to dress up as if I’m walking outdoors. Might just need to flush the heating core or check the thermostat. Oh, at one point my wipers stopped working. I bought a used control stalk on eBay and changed that after watching a RUclips tutorial, but I wasted my time as that didn’t solve the problem. Then I replaced the wiper motor with a brand new one and that solved the problem. All very easy for a novice like me.
@@tangomike15 Hi - no I don't the gearbox finally gave out, but I bought another one cheap from the same year with less mileage. As you mentioned: 1. The battery comp. was flooded, which upon investigation was exactly what you said - leaf build up in the drainiage hole by the cabin filter. 2. knocking sound from front left wheel. I had the same in my last car and it was the top strut mountings, so I replaced both of those and the ball joints. There is still an occasional knocking sound, but I've read this could be a cover on the shock absorber. 3. back splash guards around the wheel were totally rusted, meaning that the handbrake non operational (the retaining springs clip into it) I have had them both replaced as too hard to do it myself and will end of the week be installling new handbrake pads (fiddly job, but I've watched plenty of youtube videos and confident I can do it and save £150 + that a garage would charge.). I've never had problems with the car heating up - maybe you live somewhere very cold? Other issues I had on both cars is that the boot doesn't always latch (no biggie).
I,m looking to buy one of these as a cheap set of wheels but I can't find anything about the CVT reliability apart from the ECU issue.. Maybe that's a good thing.
Thanks for the video. I bought an A170 petrol automatic w169 from 2006. Still a great car, it has 180K on the clock. But when driving there is an irritating noise sort of zzoom-noise. The noise doesn't change when changing speed or revs. It is not heard when idle.The oil of the evt has been checked recently. The cvt performs fine and the car drives great. But still the noise is worrying me. It could be the cvt or the front wheel bearings. Has any one experience with this?
Yes, certainly normal if you park the car in the garage or where a wall is either in front of the car or behind. The sensors are working as they should.
Mate need to update this and include the gearbox Auto TCU needs regular replacment due to it not being fit for purpose out of all merc models this is the only one that has disappointed me mate totale let down with the head lights also being an issue 😊
Anything that requires the engine to be fully lowered is going to immediately put the value of the repair well above the value of the car. W169 and W245s are like disposable 😅
Keep in mind, that just because the garrage tells you the engine needs to be fully lowered, doesn't mean the engine really needs to be fully lowered. 95% of people working at garrages has never seen any actual service manual and they'll break 5 parts in order to repair 1 part, if the job is not a simple air/oil filter replacement.
@@coldtmsome things on them have been done in nifty ways to avoid lowering in some cases, my timing chain was done in situ but the guides will need a lowering to be done.. It was designed with lowering in mind though the frame has bolt holes etc . Trust me though, these are disposable now
@@psions555 No, I'm not willing to trust you. Why would I? I still drive mine and I enjoy it. It's a rare 3 door version in blue, with a couple of modifications. Dispose of it? IT'S MY BABY!
@@coldtm I still have mine too. I use it to keep the miles off of my classic Mitsubishi and for town trips. Honestly though however much I love it, and I love it a lot I'm on 95k and say the clutch goes in a years time do you think I'd sink that kind of labour money in to it, or get another car? When they are maintained and have life left in them it would be mad to want to dispose, but when big maintenance comes up, like my pending maintenance E......nope I'm out. One day they may become rare and have value, C169s especially as they are the rarest. The electric ones from Germany are very rare, some JDM run out models in white are very desirable too
Redex fuel treatment might help (or another fuel system / engine cleaner). Your engine might need a clean out from the inside to bring it back to full efficiency.
Guys honestly? Dont be too harsh on his voice thing he did his best and listen to me if you want, record your fucking voice and listen to see if you actually do sound better... well I bet it will sound cringy at first 😂
Thank you for the video. I have a diesel A160 elegance, and last year the the emissions were high and egr & dpf valves were chocked up with soot. This was apparently because I usually drive at low revs. To fix the problem, I put a diesel additive in the fuel tank. I also warmed up the engine and gave it a good rev (3500-- 4000 revs). This burnt the carbon deposits, which spewed out of the exhaust. Before I did this, my engine was also losing power and was in 'limp mode' most of the time. Now the engine is fine, the valves are fine, it passed its emissions test, mpg has improved and power has increased as well. I decided to write this in case other people are experiencing the same problems to try and hekp them!
Mine has a 2-3 second lag when accelerating ... do you know what could cause that? When I switch the car off and on again then it goes back to normal acceleration. Is it air vents. Or electonics? Its a petrol 1999 model with only 80 000kms on the clock.
A150 owner since first day from 2005 (my mum got it new i now own it) currently at 271000km
Things i had to redo at 205 000km when i got the car from mum (DIY):
Gearbox bearings (100EUR)
New speekers (150EUR)
New window switches (40EUR)
Shocks, breaks, and all ruber bushings (1000EUR)
Accessory belt and pulleys (300EUR)
Cluch with master cylinder (350EUR)
Break lines and handbrake cable (50EUR)
Headlights (300EUR)
Redid the front seat structure and apolstery (350EUR)
Retrofited cruse control (50EUR)
Wheel bearings front (60EUR)
Driver door stop (40EUR)
AC condensor (70EUR)
Car is sooo pratical, you can go anywhere with it, when you drop the back seats you can put a bike inside
5 people can travel all day long comfortably. AC runs great after the dryer is changes (the bigh cylinder on the condensor unit, should be changed every 8 years but no one does it)
Went everywhere with the car. Plan to drive it until the engine is gone
6L on open roads or highway at 110kmph on cruse. Def recommended.
Shanding wheel bearing was a fuck ton of job, dropping the engine and subframe was super simple in the backyard
Before all of this the car just had the oil changed every 10k and got brakes and satbilisers a few times, so the first 200k where actually quite cheap to be honest
Forgot the 100EUR timing chain tensioner, fixed the cold start rattle specially when the oil is under 1000km due for the change
I bought a A150 petrol manual over 3 years ago. I didn't notice at the time but was told that the gearbox slightly noisy. I replaced the oil and the noise has gone down considerably and I have had no issues with the gearbox. I have myself replaced the front and back brake discs, easy and cheap. One problem I had was a fault code, which when scanning with a £5 OBU turned out to be a problem in the throttle body. Taking it to a garage they wanted about £700 for a new one and fitting (total rip off). A quick google showed me that this is often caused by build up of carbon in the throttle body. This was easy to take off, just remove air inlet and it is 3 bolts. There was small buildup of carbon which I cleaned off with some WD40. Fault code cleared and have had no issues since, thus saving myself £700 for about 40 mins work! Other than that, there is a slight rattle for 1 second on cold days, presumably timing chain tensioning, seems to be fine though. Only other issue is that when I bought it, the heater blower works only on full setting, Have replaced the resistor (easy) and has not fixed the problem. Probably soon I will buy a used control panel for £15 on ebay and try that, again, looks like a very easy thing to do myself. I work from my car and I can fit 3 road barriers, all tools and equipment in it very efficiently. Changing spark plugs and leads was a bit of a paiin, but not impossible with some patience and stretching. Based on my experience, I would definitely recommend this car. It is currently at 146,000 miles and as far as I can tell going strong - all for £1000 (plus some maintenance).
Mine has a 2-3 second lag when accelerating ... do you know what could cause that? When I switch the car off and on again then it goes back to normal acceleration. Is it air vents. Or electonics? Its a petrol 1999 model with only 80 000kms on the clock.
@@chereejansevanrensburg8395 I'm afraid I don't - I'm not a pro mechanic .... in my very limited knowledge - one thing that I have found a common problem on the 2 of these cars I have owned is build up of carbon in the throttle body - however this should give an engine warning light despite it not being serious. It is an easy thing to check, and probably worth doing anyway. You need to unscrew the air filter housing (3 screws as i remember) and then on your left hand side, it feeds into the throttle body, (compact metal thing - need to unclip the electrical connection). 4 bolts, you will see a valve and if it is not all shiny and nice, can use WD40 to clean off any carbon build up. Note the way throttle body bolts on (you can't get it wrong, but faster if remember :) . It literally takes 20 mins to do, there is no risk, so I would definitely do that anyway and eliminate it as a problem ... I used this video. Hope it helps, and sorry i don't have any other answer.... ruclips.net/video/z0d1fyN9YQk/видео.html
@@slumbercatI’m not sure if you still own this car, but you’ve probably found out already…you have to replace the blower fan. I replaced mine myself when the resistor didn’t fix the problem you describe. Also, the root cause is a build up of leaves and gunk in the housing where the cabin filter goes. This causes the housing to flood with rain water and this then flows into the air ducts, causing corrosion in the blower fan and also causing other electronic issues. I sorted it a couple of years ago and it’s still fine. I’m aware of the throttle body issue and intend to clean mine soon as it clearly needs it. Also, I was getting a strong fuel smell, then noticed a fuel leak near the rear, soon after filling up. Turns out the filler neck pipe is corroded, so I ordered a new one today. It’s not a bad car. Like all cars, it has its issues, but if you take some interest (as I can see you do), it’s easy to stay on top of things. My main gripe at the moment is the car takes an eternity to get warm and never really gets hot. Its winter here and I have to dress up as if I’m walking outdoors. Might just need to flush the heating core or check the thermostat. Oh, at one point my wipers stopped working. I bought a used control stalk on eBay and changed that after watching a RUclips tutorial, but I wasted my time as that didn’t solve the problem. Then I replaced the wiper motor with a brand new one and that solved the problem. All very easy for a novice like me.
@@tangomike15 Hi - no I don't the gearbox finally gave out, but I bought another one cheap from the same year with less mileage. As you mentioned: 1. The battery comp. was flooded, which upon investigation was exactly what you said - leaf build up in the drainiage hole by the cabin filter. 2. knocking sound from front left wheel. I had the same in my last car and it was the top strut mountings, so I replaced both of those and the ball joints. There is still an occasional knocking sound, but I've read this could be a cover on the shock absorber. 3. back splash guards around the wheel were totally rusted, meaning that the handbrake non operational (the retaining springs clip into it) I have had them both replaced as too hard to do it myself and will end of the week be installling new handbrake pads (fiddly job, but I've watched plenty of youtube videos and confident I can do it and save £150 + that a garage would charge.). I've never had problems with the car heating up - maybe you live somewhere very cold? Other issues I had on both cars is that the boot doesn't always latch (no biggie).
The best car on its segment since 2004 and keeping going..... so far
I have also a w169 year 2004 and it's running good:-)
2007 here with 403.000km
Can anyone share the colour code for tail light wires please. Have need to rewire tail lights.
Very good car,i love😊
I,m looking to buy one of these as a cheap set of wheels but I can't find anything about the CVT reliability apart from the ECU issue.. Maybe that's a good thing.
Thanks for the video. I bought an A170 petrol automatic w169 from 2006. Still a great car, it has 180K on the clock. But when driving there is an irritating noise sort of zzoom-noise. The noise doesn't change when changing speed or revs. It is not heard when idle.The oil of the evt has been checked recently. The cvt performs fine and the car drives great. But still the noise is worrying me. It could be the cvt or the front wheel bearings. Has any one experience with this?
Could be the radio?
either the radio or a boombox in the boot @@chereejansevanrensburg8395
Thanks for article. Just bought 2010 A180 CDI. Only thing I notice is beeping at start up coming from the sensors on the bumpers. Is this normal?
Yes, certainly normal if you park the car in the garage or where a wall is either in front of the car or behind. The sensors are working as they should.
How does interior steering lift and drop setting work
Nice Video
Mate need to update this and include the gearbox Auto TCU needs regular replacment due to it not being fit for purpose out of all merc models this is the only one that has disappointed me mate totale let down with the head lights also being an issue 😊
Ditto - Already replaced once on a 180cdi @ 50k miles.
A really good car 👍
Dude thanks for the video but u should write subtitles
You mean, you didn't click on the CC tab?
Anything that requires the engine to be fully lowered is going to immediately put the value of the repair well above the value of the car. W169 and W245s are like disposable 😅
Keep in mind, that just because the garrage tells you the engine needs to be fully lowered, doesn't mean the engine really needs to be fully lowered. 95% of people working at garrages has never seen any actual service manual and they'll break 5 parts in order to repair 1 part, if the job is not a simple air/oil filter replacement.
@@coldtmsome things on them have been done in nifty ways to avoid lowering in some cases, my timing chain was done in situ but the guides will need a lowering to be done.. It was designed with lowering in mind though the frame has bolt holes etc . Trust me though, these are disposable now
@@psions555 No, I'm not willing to trust you. Why would I? I still drive mine and I enjoy it. It's a rare 3 door version in blue, with a couple of modifications. Dispose of it? IT'S MY BABY!
@@coldtm I still have mine too. I use it to keep the miles off of my classic Mitsubishi and for town trips. Honestly though however much I love it, and I love it a lot I'm on 95k and say the clutch goes in a years time do you think I'd sink that kind of labour money in to it, or get another car? When they are maintained and have life left in them it would be mad to want to dispose, but when big maintenance comes up, like my pending maintenance E......nope I'm out. One day they may become rare and have value, C169s especially as they are the rarest. The electric ones from Germany are very rare, some JDM run out models in white are very desirable too
Mine DRINKS fuel is there any way to fix this? 1.5 petrol automatic
Mine is the same but manual, it's better on the motorway but only 30ish around town that's shit for a car this size
@@fasttrackblastback8286 remapping it increases fuel efficiency but its very expensive to get it remapped
Redex fuel treatment might help (or another fuel system / engine cleaner). Your engine might need a clean out from the inside to bring it back to full efficiency.
@@neil7090 already tried it didn't do anything at all there was zero reaction
Swap Diesel Manual 😂
I have the same 🚗 300000km no issues,but fuel consumption is very high for this type of car…
1,5 95hp
City-9-11
Highway-7-8
Winter-11-13
Hello. It's good this car? I want buy one. Diesel or petrol? Thanks
Petrol is Diesel, you must ask for gasoline, I guess
@@andreasjkampe-buecher If petrol is diesel for you, then ur and idiot from space lol
❤
Guys honestly? Dont be too harsh on his voice thing he did his best and listen to me if you want, record your fucking voice and listen to see if you actually do sound better... well I bet it will sound cringy at first 😂
Wen smoking
I ABSOLUTLEY hate commentary with robotic voice which does not explain NOTHING as there is context. You might as well read a book!!!
Profect of doom😂
Narrated by an 8 year old boy
better than you
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🎉
Adom NYAME please help me buy this I don't know how because your Grace is sufficient Amen
I bet you're Russian.
Это было больно слушать. Робот прочитал-бы намного лучше 🤦♂️
Cvt?