These plumbing details will level up your next renovation
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- Nick and Tim walk through the brownstone renovation in Boston. Highlighting some plumbing and framing details.
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Site Visit walkthrough high-end new construction, renovation, and remodeling projects. Looking at siga architectural details, building products, framing, electrical, plumbing, staircase, Rockwool, modern design, door hardware, sealing, repair, fix, replace, subtle details, modern staircase, mechanicals, and finish details. Wigluv NS Builders shares building and project management insight while showing the step-by-step progress of ongoing jobs. Site Visit is hosted by Nick Schiffer owner of NS Builders. Waterproofing your basement?
Building products, cabinet tips, new building secrets, and framing become architectural details. New construction and renovation, rockwool ideas start and finish with building and running successful builds.
NS Builders operates in Boston, Newton, Cambridge, and in the greater Boston area. Currently, 5 projects are under construction with a few new projects coming soon.
Yes!!! Always have copper stub outs 👊 that’s a simple touch with a huge impact. That definitely needed to be said about avoiding the base trim completely with the toilet escutcheon. One other toile no no, don’t have the supply come up thru the floor. 🙄 floor clutter = cleaning difficulty
It’s awesome to always see you innovating and growing in your builds. Keep up the good work and thanks as always for sharing.
Thanks for the clear explanations! Such a great video!
Thanks Nick!
Is there a specific reason for not using Uponor PEX-a? It has better flowing fittings and less fittings are needed in general.
Having the hot lines come from central location would mean long wait times for hot water, compared to a branch off system, wouldn’t it?
We stub out with Uponor bend supports for all fixtures, using the framing or metal brackets and never have issues with loose stub-outs. The water here kills copper pipes in 10-15 years.
Nice video.. just wondering if you could have eliminated # of joints in the pex system to reduce potential for leaks.. for instance.. toilet water stubout uses 2 elbows followed by what looks like a crimp to a copper fitting. Also, instead of running the ceiling pex on diagonals, 2 elbows were used which increase leak potential and also adds flow impedance - I don't want to harp too hard on the perpendicular runs, as I prefer things being run parallel and perpendicular as well. I suppose with all these fitting, I would agree that Pex B with lower flow resistance and greater joint reliability would be a better choice.
Sure we could’ve reduce the amount of fittings, but we chose to keep everything nice and neat and orderly. Overall I’m not really concerned with fittings leaking and it would be very similar if we were to do pro press or soldered copper.
Like the public service announcement!!! This is similar to not shimming out switch boxes and having to cut switch plates
Exactly. I’ve done it before and oddly enough it was on my own personal home. Never again
Trades that don’t consider locations of plumbing, switches, outlets… 🤦♂️ Even worse, when you specify and they move it… How hard is it to centre something with other lines in the room? Attention to detail is what sets good builders apart from great ones.
Often times it’s just not something that gets coordinated. And the plumber put it where he usually put it in the finish carpenter is told to keep the job moving.
100% agree with you on drawing attention to the water line. Always seemed silly to me.
Are mechanical vents(air admittance valve) not allowed in Boston? Wondering why the use of an island vent.
That’s correct we are not allowed to use a vent like that in Boston. We actually uncovered a charcoal tight vent on the washing machine which we had to re-pipe and vent up and out to passcode
Centrally located isolated bank... Don't you mean a manifold?
Yep same thing
Why not just pipe in that draw off into a waste water drain? Seems like a little thing you could do to make the product that much better.
The tough part about that is you would need a trap primer. Or you would need to be closer to say a sink and use a dishwasher T, but that’s a great suggestion and often times we use that detail for condensate
so that is where all the t stack drawers went. Tanks for buying them all up! 😠
Is that pex B you’re using? Garbage, you may want to rethink that choice. Even with Viega fittings i have seen failures before ten years. If you must use pex use pex A. The slightest micro drip over time will rust out the metal crimps in short order once it starts.
Saying that it’s garbage I think is aggressive. Yes there are upsides to using type a verse type B but the downside of using type B is fairly minimal, and it really comes down to flexibility and the type of fittings that you would use which arguably reduces flow rate but I’ve seen tests side-by-side and it’s pretty minimal.
Not to mention the metal on the fittings is all stainless steel so rust it should not be an issue
After you have dealt with a failure you will change your mind. The stainless used for crimps is not a good grade and will corrode quickly with a drip especially with chlorinated water or bad PH. To many reasons to use pex A over pex B. You’re doing high end work with expensive wall finishes but using cheap plumbing behind the walls. Honestly I’m surprised you don’t spec copper. Your builds are expensive and unlikely to be redone for at least 20 years. I’m even seeing leaks with pro press used on heating loops. Not sure if the high heat is prematurely degrading the o rings or the pipes weren’t prepped properly. No thanks, soldered joints for heat loops last forever.