Great work based on your limited tools and workshop. Think you did a great job in your garage for a non-professional. It's videos like these that help the laymen like me to do these jobs.
NICE! Man, you come in clutch for anyone that maintenances their own 535i F10! I asked you in your rear diff bushing insert video about “high speed wobbles”…I’m seeing now that, I better look into my drive shaft carrier bearing. Makes sense because it’s a very “rhythmic” vibration/wobble.
awesome work as always dude! I assumed this required special tools but clearly elbow grease and properly sized random tool will do the work fine! Thanks!
I appreciate this video so much. And the only way I was able to find the problem was after I did all the work to find what the problem was and now that I found the problem yeah, I can't do it. I'm just gonna have to take it somewhere.. sucks when you live in an apartment and don't have all the right tools
I prefer watching you do the hard jobs than doing them myself lol. But thank you for the video, I am going to be doing the same thing in the coming weeks and its nice to have a good tutorial!
I've done this already on my M-Sport F10 professionally by myself using the correct tools! Don't be cheap like Grant here and risk a 50% chance of destroying that center bearing using them cheap incorrect (mickey mouse) tools for this job. Harbor Freight has a bearing puller about $30 that works perfect to pull that old center bearing out smoothly. Use it and once done just return it back for a refund. All you need to push that new center bearing back into it's original place is one of 2 things. Either a big pass through socket the size of that center bearing wheel or a thick enough 6" tube with a 1 1/4" opening. That will fit perfect over that spline bar and then hit that tube right in the center 3 to 4 time and the center bearing will install perfectly far back without any risk of damaging the center bearing wheel. Also while you have that driveshaft out, make sure your Flex disc's are in great shape, if not replace both of them with the genuine parts. I highly suggest upgrading them to the German made Meyle HD version as those are made with greater material and last longer than the standard OEM's. All bolts and nuts must be replaced as they are a one time use. Get OEM for all bolts and nuts and torque to specs. Also replace the Differential support bushings with new bolts and nuts on the F10 (3 total, main big one and 2 smaller bushings) if they are cracked or looked old and beat up and torque to specs. You do NOT want to do this job again as it's time consuming.... p.s. while everything is off the car might as well change the Transmission mounting support, it's cheap and a must! I did all this work as well as replacing the torn Engine mounts, cleaned everything down there spic n' span like new you can eat of it! lol.... Yeah it was like going to hell and back doing all this work but that's why you do it correctly so you won't have to do it again anytime soon....
I am doing the same thing right now on my f10, my bearing split apart like yours did. I am considering using a bearing puller but unlike your driveshaft mine has a plastic lock ring on the tip of the splines that I can't seem to find on realoem (so i am afraid of damaging that if i did use a puller). Prod date 08/12. Alternatively hoping I can get the bearing off with a sledge like you did
Great work based on your limited tools and workshop. Think you did a great job in your garage for a non-professional. It's videos like these that help the laymen like me to do these jobs.
🙏🏽
Great video, and great job on the swap. Especially with no "special" tools. You've definitely got the right amount of knowledge and can-do attitude.
🙏🏽
NICE! Man, you come in clutch for anyone that maintenances their own 535i F10! I asked you in your rear diff bushing insert video about “high speed wobbles”…I’m seeing now that, I better look into my drive shaft carrier bearing. Makes sense because it’s a very “rhythmic” vibration/wobble.
Definitely something to inspect, that could be the culprit.
awesome work as always dude! I assumed this required special tools but clearly elbow grease and properly sized random tool will do the work fine! Thanks!
Yeah, it worked out!
I appreciate this video so much. And the only way I was able to find the problem was after I did all the work to find what the problem was and now that I found the problem yeah, I can't do it. I'm just gonna have to take it somewhere.. sucks when you live in an apartment and don't have all the right tools
good job brother
🙏🏽
I prefer watching you do the hard jobs than doing them myself lol. But thank you for the video, I am going to be doing the same thing in the coming weeks and its nice to have a good tutorial!
😂 Glad I could help!
I've done this already on my M-Sport F10 professionally by myself using the correct tools! Don't be cheap like Grant here and risk a 50% chance of destroying that center bearing using them cheap incorrect (mickey mouse) tools for this job.
Harbor Freight has a bearing puller about $30 that works perfect to pull that old center bearing out smoothly. Use it and once done just return it back for a refund. All you need to push that new center bearing back into it's original place is one of 2 things. Either a big pass through socket the size of that center bearing wheel or a thick enough 6" tube with a 1 1/4" opening. That will fit perfect over that spline bar and then hit that tube right in the center 3 to 4 time and the center bearing will install perfectly far back without any risk of damaging the center bearing wheel.
Also while you have that driveshaft out, make sure your Flex disc's are in great shape, if not replace both of them with the genuine parts. I highly suggest upgrading them to the German made Meyle HD version as those are made with greater material and last longer than the standard OEM's.
All bolts and nuts must be replaced as they are a one time use. Get OEM for all bolts and nuts and torque to specs.
Also replace the Differential support bushings with new bolts and nuts on the F10 (3 total, main big one and 2 smaller bushings) if they are cracked or looked old and beat up and torque to specs. You do NOT want to do this job again as it's time consuming....
p.s. while everything is off the car might as well change the Transmission mounting support, it's cheap and a must!
I did all this work as well as replacing the torn Engine mounts, cleaned everything down there spic n' span like new you can eat of it! lol....
Yeah it was like going to hell and back doing all this work but that's why you do it correctly so you won't have to do it again anytime soon....
Great video my dude
🙏🏽
Great video. I have everything to do mine.
Knock it out. You got this!
I am doing the same thing right now on my f10, my bearing split apart like yours did. I am considering using a bearing puller but unlike your driveshaft mine has a plastic lock ring on the tip of the splines that I can't seem to find on realoem (so i am afraid of damaging that if i did use a puller). Prod date 08/12. Alternatively hoping I can get the bearing off with a sledge like you did
Good luck man! Keep me posted, hopefully it all goes smoothly for you.
Excellent
😊
While you are at it, you should have changed the rear subframe bushings, not hard job, but a crap job
Haven’t looked into replacing the subframe bushings. I added the Bimmerhausperformance differential insert last week. That did wonders.