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Three main tips that come to mind are; -Have less psi on the front tire (1-2 psi less), for offroad riding you want more traction to the front than the rear. It's okay (FUN) if the rear steps out, less okay (BUTT PUCKER) if the front tire steps out. -Tip two is to find your baseline for offroad and road and keep it consistent for a while to learn how the bike/tires react to each and every situation. And then fluctuate if need be once comfortable. I recommend a year or so of doing a consistent X offroad psi and Y road psi. This also helps formulate personal opinions about certain tires (ie how they handle wet/dry/rock/sand etc) when you have a consistent baseline. -3; A little 12v pump with either a cig lighter or QD, works wonders for making you WANT to play around with psi or actually do pressure changes. Mine only costs about a 2 beer can space slot in the pack, and it takes me about 4 minutes to air up after riding at the end of some single track before riping back home. Coincidentally the same amount of time that it takes to shoot the shit with the riding buddies and or re-hydrate on h2o. For the first 4-6 or so years, I did not care anything about changing my tire pressure. And that's fine if you don't. But for the last while, I've been running different tire pressures for different scenarios and have found it has drastically improved my riding (probably due to being able to conquer more difficult hills/faster corners, thus improving my courage/confidence. On the klx with stock rims, no rim locks, and heavy-duty tubes. I've settled at 16 psi when I need it (ie slow tough enduro day), 18 for overall single track, 20-25 when I do dualsport shinanigans back and forth from dirt to paved, and 32 for road/hwy rip (1-2 psi less on the front for each). And I change when need be, but like mentioned in this video I settled on these based on the terrain I ride and all the other reasons mentioned. And his has kept me relatively flat-free, and dinged rim-free. Cheers on the excellent vid, very useful to the dual-sport/adv community🤙🏻
I have the 1200 GS and was driving long time with recommended max pressure since i am 130kg and was on travel with luggage. Much better driving after decreasing the pressure from 2.5 and 3 bars to 2.1 and 2.6 bars.
I love Tubliss in the rear. Can't beat them. Haven't torn a valve out for years unlike before. I don't bother with front Tubliss. Never had a pinch flat on the front unlike the rear.
Agreed, and it seems like the rear likes to pick up nails/thorns whatever much more often than fronts. And its a huge PITA taking off a rear wheel and repairing/replacing a tube vs a front.
On lager/heavier bikes loaded with luggage and passengers, you're usually not far off from the max load of the tires. So, it's important to keep in mind that the max load of the tire is usually at max psi. Running too low with a heavy load will at best cause weird wear and at worst overheat and blowout, so as much as it sucks having to adjust tire pressures, it's better than sliding down the highway. I'm talking bikes that are in the 500lb range here, just to be clear. Which could easily be pushing 900lb with two people and gear.
Great topic and very timely! On my T7 with the manufacture's tires, I've found that with the bike loaded and my weight at 110 kgs, dropping the pressures 6 psi from the recommended 36 rear and 32 front makes a world of difference for extended gravel and single track riding!!
I ride at 20R-24F psi. DRZ400. I go about 10 miles each way to trail, then ride on dirt until tired (not long! Can’t measure accurately due to excessive wheelies) , then 10 miles back home. I’ve had Shinko 700, Dunlop something or other (not trail wings), and pirelli scorpion pro. All last about 3000 miles. now have Tusk Dsports - love them - we’ll see how long they last. I ride sand primarily, and lower would certainly be better, but it’s a real bother for my short jaunts. The DSports have a solid carcass, and I weigh about 185 with gear. I like knowing that if I aired down a bit more traction would improve and that I am training at less traction, which I imagine doesn’t negatively affect technique. No rim locks.
Some interesting things I leaned from closed course road racing on racing slicks. When moving fast, tire pressure is a function of generating and maintaining proper heat in the tire. The higher the pressure the cooler the tire will run and thus the faster the rider will need to be to maintain proper cohesion with the ground. Race tires get so soft at operating temperatures that you can almost leave your thumbprint in them. I know this doesnt apply to dirt riding but it was pretty cool for me to see. Also doubling down on the tire pressure gauge, many many tire pressure gauges are very inaccurate, a lot of people trust their life with a tire pressure gauges that costs less than the cost of their lunch. Buy once, cry once and invest in an accurate one.
As long as you have tire warmers, dialing the pressure in on a track is no big deal. All the manufacturers will give you charts for their slicks and wets, what temp for which tire at which temperature. They give you the pressures at 80° for slicks and 40° for wets and since race is usually only after some practice rounds, if you start losing grip early, air down, if you start overheating (tire blue, inconsistent performance), air up.
i stick it at 15psi in my crf 450L. works great for rocky / sandy trails, and it's tolerable on the road. since i barely ever ride on the road, it's just fine knowing that the lower air pressure is not ideal, but it means i don't have to get off any play the PSI game whenever I switch terrain. i make up for any discrepancies in the "ideal" pressure by just trying to ride better!
@@crosstrainingadventure I really like the bike, however it is absolutely true that it's a real PAIN to ride until the ECU is replaced, due to the low rev fuel cutoff. So that's a barrier. But the handling is great, it's lightweight, and it has all the snot you need to get out of hairy situations or climb stuff. Plenty of snot for getting INTO trouble too... I probably wouldn't buy another one, but I have no motivation to replace it either.
Great to hear it's working for you overall. I've actually emailed Honda Australia to see if I can review a few models... but in my experience none of them ever respond.
@@crosstrainingadventure hmmmm, not really sure. I got those numbers from a forum post on Thumpertalk. The author was a 14 year old who has never ridden a motorcycle before, but he swears to be an expert, so I trust the information.
Barry - "THE MIGHTY SUZUKI DR 650" - On the road (as recommended) 21 front / 25 rear - Off road 1/2 way down - no bead locks - about 11 front / 13 rear ("ish") - But only if I'm gonna be off road for a wee bit. Never sheared a valve stem AND REALLY TAKES THE EDGE OF THE ROCKS / ROUGH STUFF - and obviously more traction. I have SLIME in my tubes & I also carry a SLIME COMPRESSOR with me - plugs into my BATTERY TENDER plug - quick & easy - just takes a couple of minutes.... If strictly off road & I'm putting the bike in the truck, I air them down before I leave as that ride will only see pavement for maybe a short period of time. LOVE YOUR WORK !!!!!!
Congrats on not ripping valve stems at those pressures without rim locks! I found that even at 15psi I was getting slippage of the tyre and those valve stems were leaning... mind you, I used to ride a lot more aggressively back in those days.
Really gotta mention pressure gauge’s guys, they are pretty inaccurate across the board and most tend to become less accurate over time. Nearly all my gauges read different.. I carry a 60 psi Jaco gauge and a lil hand pump, I’m really enjoying playing with different pressures on the loops I do. It’s amazing the difference it makes! Also No digital no batteries a simple combo that just stays in the bag👍
I’ve always carried a small air pump, I haven’t needed it myself yet but I’ve lost count how many times I’ve met other riders out the bush with slow leaks/flat tyres that are happy to borrow it 👍
It's funny how many don't carry one, Aaron... even though they are tiny. My brother has his under the seat of his Beta RR300 and there's barely any room there at all, but it still fits.
I'm new to dual sport and a couple of months ago I took my new Italian Princess Beta 390RRS up to visit my mom. Next day I went dirt biking and forgot to adjust my tire pressure back down and was dismayed how poor the traction was. After a little while I remembered about my road ride the day before and rode back to the truck to adjust the pressure back down and man what a difference. A stupid story I know but one learned first hand by me. I like 8 in back. And 11 up front. This works for my speed and varying terrain where I ride. When I where out my tires I'm going Tubliss but I'm too lazy to change just yet and my stock Michelins are surprisingly good.
Hopefully you'll enjoy TUbliss, our whole group is on them now. For our slow technical riding we only run about 3psi which is the equivalent of around 6psi... incredible grip! But poor handling at speed of course.
Don't feel bad, I had been riding trails for weeks, then left on a 3 day road ride with tires still at the dirt pressure. About half way into the trip my buddy noticed the low pressure but by then my tire was ruined. Weird wear patterns. I had to swap it out shortly after the ride.
Valve tool and bike pump are easy to carry. Get a high pressure pump and you'll be able to use it with your tubliss setup too. Mine constantly leaked so was handy in that respect too 😂
I find it worth it to experiment but only change pressures on the Adv bike if I am going to be off-road for long periods (1+ hours) before getting back on the pavement. Currently run sidewall pressure (34) on the road and 25-30 on the dirt for the 890 Adv R with Bridgestone AX41s. Love mousse inserts on the WR450, great traction... but more importantly, peace of mind!
Same here, Matt. I won't drop the pressures if I'm only on dirt for less than an hour. I don't mind the bike skating around a bit on gravel... adds to the challenge!
Had a Yamaha XT225 and Kawasaki KLR 650. Once I lowered the pressure down to 18psi front, 14psi rear, I never went back. To me, it made a world of difference.
Excelente video, interesante e instructivo. Yo utilizo Tubliss en mi Husky TE300 la delantera 14psi (menos solo sirva para pinchar) y 5psi en la traerá (tracciona magnifica mente y al tener mucho balón difícilmente pincha) Ahora estoy adentrándome en el mundo adventure y estoy experimentando, en principio tal como sugieres al final del video: utilizando las presiones recomendadas por el fabricante. Gracias y saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
I stay at road pressure and accept the traction limits. I'd never had a flat with my radials on gravel highway until a track in Oz. The locals asked if I had good tires and I had more than 50% left on my good Michelin T66. They said I should adjust my air pressure because of sharp rocks, but I didn't and that was the only flat I' d had . I've seen 21" pinch flats on undeveloped highway at normal pressure.
I must admit I often just stay at road pressures nowadays too, Chris. If the ride only involves, say, 25% dirt roads I'll just skate around and enjoy the challenge of less traction.
All good info there 😎👍 For me (DR650) 25 front and rear- tar, gravel roads, mud and beach sand. Too lazy to change, and adjust my riding to suit the surface.
Same here, I've been running around 25psi for my first 4000km simply because there's been a lot of road riding so far... when we get seriously offroad I'll go down to 18psi and have rimlocks fitted by then.
Thais only check their air pressures on a partial eclipse, hence every tyre has 75psi in it. This is checked by pressing your thumb into the tread.....it theres ANY sign of movement add 30psi until solid.
After watching this I feel comfortable going 25psi front Mitas e-07 and 27psi rear Motos GPS. 20% asphalt, 80% dirt and trails. Versys-x 300. Recommended 28 and 32. I'm weary of pinching tubes on rocks when ripping through atv trails so would never go lower.
I'm not sure how much difference it makes, but you could always try some of that green Slime or a similar product in your tubes. With luck it will fix small punctures and might even reduce pinch punctures. Some riders put talc and even grease on the outside of the tube for this reason, although I'm not really sure how much this reduces pinch flats and if it's a great idea or not.
Tubliss is also great for keeping dirt out of the inside of your tires and bead seating areas. Especially at low pressure, this is a great way to get a flat on a conventional tube system. Get some dirt and or debris in there and I've had the friction (over time) cause abrasions in the tube that have left me sitting when I wanna be riding. Tubliss seals things up even at
How is road riding on the tubliss system. I have a 250 l, so I am not doing insane speeds on road (or off road 😉). But Tubliss is like this will explode if you put it near tarmac 😄.... Will it? 😳
Even on my light enduro bike, I always start the ride with high pressures (around 1.5atm ~ 22psi) and air down when I start to lose traction too much. I often even air down in a middle of a climb. It can be tricky to learn airing down with one hand while balancing the bike with other while not falling, since the hill was steep enough to stop me in my tracks, but it's easy get used to it. I only air up once I get very low (0.4-0.6atm ~6-9PSI) or when I'm about to do a longer road section. It takes under a minute to air down and under 5 minutes to air up (I have a stripped mini 12v compressor), so it's not a bother.
I remember once being stuck on a mild but muddy climb... it took a few goes before I finally realised the solution was go very low PSI just to get up and out. Then pump the rear up again. Very handy!
I ride a yamaha xtz 125 (114 kg in order to ride) with tubes and no rimlocks. I use info from yamaha manuals. Yamaha xtz 125: 22 Yamaha xtz 250 lander: 18 front 22 rear Yamaha ttr 230: 15 I made a lot of tests, And go to 12 for off road My cousin use the bike and put 27 to ride rocks, just sucks.
If there is other people running Tubliss in here, I would like to hear your experience about the air lost that Nuetech talk about (basically they say that we should check the pressure every ride). Personally, both of my tire have been relatively air tight and the small bladder usually don't lose more than 3 to 5psi per week. I have tried it with and without slime and I have not seen any difference on that subject. Once you go Tubliss, you never go back 😉
Ditto, Cedri... in our group it's always been about 5psi drop each week. I suspect when guys have air leaks they probably didn't fit them correctly. Funny how many refuse to read the instructions lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure are you talking about the small bladder or the tire ? Because personally my tire are really close to a tube for being air tight.
Your in Australia maybe Queensland with the footage I guess tyre pressure is always set the same and don't really change it much I have a usb rechargeable tyre pump it's light, fast and rechargeable and can take it anywhere and easy to use plus it has a light and I also have a tyre gauge which keeps a accurate record for my needs the tyre slime is good for lots other reasons so stay upright ok
Personally, I just run the OEM pressures on my DRZ of 18F and 20R both on and off road and have learnt to adjust my riding style. As with everything dual sport, it's a compromise.
I know some riders obsess over the perfect PSI but of course another option is just learning to ride better and actually enjoying the challenge of skating around on loose gravel. It might be laziness too in my case lol.... but I don't drop my pressures unless I'll be on dirt for most of the ride.
The manual of my Yamaha xt 600 E has the specifications for tire pressure but not only for road use, you have on road normal use , off road, high load , and high speed.... quite usefull
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah, i love the bike, hard as rock and really easy to ride, and i have one of the rarest models here the one with the purple tank.
@@crosstrainingadventure haha,lol , for me my yamaha xt its just what i need .An every day bike,not terrible on the highway, with decent offroad capabilities and not very heavy to make it easier for me to ride because my riding level isn't the best(getting better but im still a beginner).
I’m running 31 PSI on the rear and 29 PSI on the front of my BMW R 1200 GSA. I’m wondering if that’s too low on the front. I’m not off-road as much these days. I’m running tubeless Dunlop Trailmax Missions. If I were off road as much now, I know that would be fine.
just my own experience but on my KTM500 with tubes, no rim locks and aggressive riding I run: 30 on road 20 on dirt, gravel, rocks 10-15 on sand and snow, mud never go under 10. the bike has 11k miles and 400H and I've never had a tire or tube issue. side note: I have had 2 friends on similar bikes who forgot to pump up and have ridden for hours on road with 13psi, no issues
Very interesting, in my experience at 10psi I'd have the tyre slipping a bit on the rim and eventually ripping the valve stem tube.... if I didn't have rimlocks. Those figures sound about right! One thing I love with TUbliss is you can run almost flat tyres for slippery conditions... crazy amounts of grip.
@@crosstrainingadventure yea id love to try tubliss but unless they changed it from the last time I looked they say not recommended for the road. and my bike is both a weekend dirt warrior and work day commuter
I actually emailed the TUbliss guys a few years back, they said zero problems as far as they could see but getting DOT approval would cost a fortune... as Cedric says the cops won't notice.
Not sure which bit you mean, it might be our 360 cam? Details in our budget drone alternative vid. Or it might be our homemade swivel cam, Chris. Details in our vid about Gopro mounts. 😊
The green hippo! A real shame they discontinued these, I had a ball with mine years ago. A very old vid from 2008.... ruclips.net/video/tu8N1XYO284/видео.html
Great vid cobba I run many different pressures for the terrain I’m guna ride and the bike I’m on flexibility is key a great go to is 20 front 18 rear will work everywhere on most bikes just saying cheers
For single cylinder bikes I reckon that's a good compromise for a mix of road and dirt. I know with the DR650 I have to get it up more around 25 to 30 for just road road riding or I get weird wear patterns on the front and both ends wear out faster.
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah the transalp is the same but for short stints between tracks I don’t change it back for the west coast dunes it 8 front 6 rear but the tyres can hold the bead well k60 scout f Dunlop d608 rear very different to the xr660 and the Xt250 I think I’ve never checked the lil XR hundy it just goes everywhere hehe
I've never been very finnicky with air pressures. I run somewhere around 25psi both ends, maybe even 30 if there's not dirt at all. When we finally get into some serious offroad I'll go down to 20 and have rimlocks fitted.
@@crosstrainingadventure rim locks are the trick mate had a bugger of a time fitting them to the tubeless set up on the transalp couldn’t get a seal went to tubes but once I did the fork swap Africa twin set and 21 “ front changed the game big bor 800 kit also and remap she’s a beast jumps well handels it all I’m hoping the new transalp is as good I’ll get one if they do it right we’re spoilt for choice really u take care baz cheers mate
Thanks for the vid! Can you please comment on choice of tubes? There usually are standard tubes with thickness ~1mm, the thicker tubes of around 2,5mm and some heavy duty tubes with 4mm thickness (there may be more options I'm not aware of). What would be safe pressures to run with these tubes if you have rim locks? Should you even run standard 1mm tubes with rim locks and air pressures below, lets say, 14 psi without risking a lot of pinch punctures?
I had a Cheng Shin front dirt tire on my DR 650 that had such a stiff carcass I could run it on 5 PSI. I had to use a die grinder to cut the bead to get that tire off my rim. Horrible.
They are still making those?! They have been around for years now, I assumed they'd closed down. Personally I'd prefer to not go with a Chinese brand. My budget go-to-brand is Shinko... Japanese designed tyres made in South Korea.
Just converted my 480rr to adv spec. On dirt roads…for fun factor it’s hard to beat about 26psi and a rat shit bald rear knob. Sliding around effortlessly, good GT 216 up front with about 12 psi. Happiness
my used klx came with single rimlocks and terrible balance, shaky at hwy speed on blacktop. to balance took shitload of weights. do you recommend two opposing rimlocks?
I love Tubliss on my 2T Betas, and ran it on a tagged 450 EXC I commuted on. However, didn't think they were advisable for twin cylinder ADV bike (Tenere 700) due to chances of extended asphalt rides and speeds over 80 mph. Have you heard more recent test info, or am I doomed to dealing with those ANNOYING tubes again? YES, I fully accept the dangers of taking advice from pink tutu wearing Muppets. No need for caveats.
I did ask the TUbliss guys if they'd ever do a 17 inch setup for the DR650, Clinton... (maybe). I asked about the adventure bikes and they said it's just too expensive getting DOT approval but they couldn't see problems running the system on bigger bikes, as long as the rims are still narrow. T7 rear rim is probably too wide. 🤔
No worries, Clinton! As you probably know I usually don't go looking for links unless someone has really had trouble finding it... and offers a large cash incentive lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure 06 KTM 300 XC - made a world of difference in the silt and deep sand in Utah and the rock/gravel single track here in Colorado. On the F800GS, I have to drop just a bit below street pressures on the rear Motoz tractionator or else it just digs straight down. Maybe 25 is as far as I go. I keep the front at street pressure due to the weak design of the factory rims.
But 1 bar = 100kpa so I figured it's an easy conversion. There would just be too much clutter on the screen if I gave all three measurements throughout the vid.
@@crosstrainingadventure Oh boy. I'm a bit dense as it turns out. Didn't even see the conversions on screen. That's what you get for whatching RUclips on a phone screen while cooking...
I keep forgetting lots of viewers are using their phones! I edit and watch vids on a massive tv set and then I have trouble with my eyesight sometimes lol. Enjoy your dinner... 😎
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks! Dinner turned out pretty good actually 😅 Anyways. I usually like watching on bigger screens too. But in the kitchen the phone comes in handy. Either for recipes or the occasion enduro video 🏍️💨
I have converted tube type spoke wheels to tubeless tires using the following method ruclips.net/video/JPzoqi_4X7o/видео.html Have done 2 Africa twins, 2 CB500x with Rally Raid wheels and 1 Kawasaki KLX 300sm and all are still working fine, in loose terrain and slow going I have run down to 10psi. The video is done by an engineer who is quite anal. The only thing I have done different is giving up on his 17$ aluminum valve stems and simply cut the stems out of old inner tubes (use the round circle as the guide) Use the Marine calk to seal the stem and run tape over the top of it cutting an air hole so the whole thing works. Barry experiment on your DR and let us know how it goes!
I thought about it but the problem is so many guys report failures with the DR650 when they've tried... even with the DR650-specific kit you can buy. I'm just going heavy duty tubes instead with some Slime inside to minimise pinch punctures.
@@crosstrainingadventure The advantage of the tube is the ability to run lower tire pressures if you have rim locks installed. I have run the Tublliss system and Nitro Mousse. For Dual sport use I will follow the video and convert spoke wheels to tubeless with great confidence. Thanks for all your great work.
I found him... you mean 'Bret Tkacs'? I couldn't see any recent vid of his covering air pressure. And in any case I first covered this topic on my enduro channel back in 2016, so maybe he's copying me. 😂
2 days ago he did a myth video. I'm not saying you copied him lol, just coincidence Check out his videos, he teaches seminars on enduro/adventure riding.
I love the video except the image of me in my Speedos you clearly stole off my Facebook page. I demand you Photoshop me to have the physic of a Greek god
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Three main tips that come to mind are;
-Have less psi on the front tire (1-2 psi less), for offroad riding you want more traction to the front than the rear. It's okay (FUN) if the rear steps out, less okay (BUTT PUCKER) if the front tire steps out.
-Tip two is to find your baseline for offroad and road and keep it consistent for a while to learn how the bike/tires react to each and every situation. And then fluctuate if need be once comfortable. I recommend a year or so of doing a consistent X offroad psi and Y road psi. This also helps formulate personal opinions about certain tires (ie how they handle wet/dry/rock/sand etc) when you have a consistent baseline.
-3; A little 12v pump with either a cig lighter or QD, works wonders for making you WANT to play around with psi or actually do pressure changes. Mine only costs about a 2 beer can space slot in the pack, and it takes me about 4 minutes to air up after riding at the end of some single track before riping back home. Coincidentally the same amount of time that it takes to shoot the shit with the riding buddies and or re-hydrate on h2o.
For the first 4-6 or so years, I did not care anything about changing my tire pressure. And that's fine if you don't. But for the last while, I've been running different tire pressures for different scenarios and have found it has drastically improved my riding (probably due to being able to conquer more difficult hills/faster corners, thus improving my courage/confidence.
On the klx with stock rims, no rim locks, and heavy-duty tubes. I've settled at 16 psi when I need it (ie slow tough enduro day), 18 for overall single track, 20-25 when I do dualsport shinanigans back and forth from dirt to paved, and 32 for road/hwy rip (1-2 psi less on the front for each). And I change when need be, but like mentioned in this video I settled on these based on the terrain I ride and all the other reasons mentioned. And his has kept me relatively flat-free, and dinged rim-free.
Cheers on the excellent vid, very useful to the dual-sport/adv community🤙🏻
Great top hear, Damon! Yes there are definitely benefits if you are willing to put the time in.
I have the 1200 GS and was driving long time with recommended max pressure since i am 130kg and was on travel with luggage. Much better driving after decreasing the pressure from 2.5 and 3 bars to 2.1 and 2.6 bars.
20 in the rear and 24 in the front. I can't be bothered with airing up and down every time the surface changes. I just wanna ride.
I love Tubliss in the rear. Can't beat them. Haven't torn a valve out for years unlike before. I don't bother with front Tubliss. Never had a pinch flat on the front unlike the rear.
Agreed, and it seems like the rear likes to pick up nails/thorns whatever much more often than fronts. And its a huge PITA taking off a rear wheel and repairing/replacing a tube vs a front.
On lager/heavier bikes loaded with luggage and passengers, you're usually not far off from the max load of the tires. So, it's important to keep in mind that the max load of the tire is usually at max psi.
Running too low with a heavy load will at best cause weird wear and at worst overheat and blowout, so as much as it sucks having to adjust tire pressures, it's better than sliding down the highway.
I'm talking bikes that are in the 500lb range here, just to be clear. Which could easily be pushing 900lb with two people and gear.
Great topic and very timely! On my T7 with the manufacture's tires, I've found that with the bike loaded and my weight at 110 kgs, dropping the pressures 6 psi from the recommended 36 rear and 32 front makes a world of difference for extended gravel and single track riding!!
Good to hear, Allen! Next time I see the owner of the T7 I rode I'll see what he finds works best.
I ride at 20R-24F psi. DRZ400. I go about 10 miles each way to trail, then ride on dirt until tired (not long! Can’t measure accurately due to excessive wheelies) , then 10 miles back home. I’ve had Shinko 700, Dunlop something or other (not trail wings), and pirelli scorpion pro. All last about 3000 miles. now have Tusk Dsports - love them - we’ll see how long they last. I ride sand primarily, and lower would certainly be better, but it’s a real bother for my short jaunts. The DSports have a solid carcass, and I weigh about 185 with gear. I like knowing that if I aired down a bit more traction would improve and that I am training at less traction, which I imagine doesn’t negatively affect technique. No rim locks.
Glad you made this vid, I just bought a xr650l and went off roading with the 35 psi and it was a terrible experience.
I can imagine, Cesar! Does the manual give an offroad figure? Does the XR have rimlocks?
Some interesting things I leaned from closed course road racing on racing slicks.
When moving fast, tire pressure is a function of generating and maintaining proper heat in the tire. The higher the pressure the cooler the tire will run and thus the faster the rider will need to be to maintain proper cohesion with the ground. Race tires get so soft at operating temperatures that you can almost leave your thumbprint in them. I know this doesnt apply to dirt riding but it was pretty cool for me to see.
Also doubling down on the tire pressure gauge, many many tire pressure gauges are very inaccurate, a lot of people trust their life with a tire pressure gauges that costs less than the cost of their lunch. Buy once, cry once and invest in an accurate one.
I looked briefly into road riding/racing pressures and it's a huge topic!
As long as you have tire warmers, dialing the pressure in on a track is no big deal. All the manufacturers will give you charts for their slicks and wets, what temp for which tire at which temperature. They give you the pressures at 80° for slicks and 40° for wets and since race is usually only after some practice rounds, if you start losing grip early, air down, if you start overheating (tire blue, inconsistent performance), air up.
i stick it at 15psi in my crf 450L. works great for rocky / sandy trails, and it's tolerable on the road. since i barely ever ride on the road, it's just fine knowing that the lower air pressure is not ideal, but it means i don't have to get off any play the PSI game whenever I switch terrain. i make up for any discrepancies in the "ideal" pressure by just trying to ride better!
Enjoying the CRF Dave? I still haven't managed to get a ride on one but keen to see what they are like. Hopefully Honda will make a rally model!
@@crosstrainingadventure I really like the bike, however it is absolutely true that it's a real PAIN to ride until the ECU is replaced, due to the low rev fuel cutoff. So that's a barrier. But the handling is great, it's lightweight, and it has all the snot you need to get out of hairy situations or climb stuff. Plenty of snot for getting INTO trouble too... I probably wouldn't buy another one, but I have no motivation to replace it either.
Great to hear it's working for you overall. I've actually emailed Honda Australia to see if I can review a few models... but in my experience none of them ever respond.
Love the bike pump idea. Simpletech! Also the workout you'll get will build your strength so you can help lift your mates GS when it falls over.
😂 I love simple cheap stuff!
22.76 on the front, 25.67 in the rear. Unless it's a full moon, the I take the square root of those numbers, double it, then ad 15 psi.
Which hemisphere? Are you allowing for the Coriolis force? Any allowance for relativistic effects with your position in the gravity well?
@@crosstrainingadventure hmmmm, not really sure. I got those numbers from a forum post on Thumpertalk. The author was a 14 year old who has never ridden a motorcycle before, but he swears to be an expert, so I trust the information.
In that case I will too!
What pressure do you suggest for a total eclipse?
@Wes B add 4.20%
I would keep it at 5psi lower than recommended range.
It improved ride contact patch grip and comfort,
However.. Tyre flats increased dramatically
Barry - "THE MIGHTY SUZUKI DR 650" - On the road (as recommended) 21 front / 25 rear - Off road 1/2 way down - no bead locks - about 11 front / 13 rear ("ish") - But only if I'm gonna be off road for a wee bit. Never sheared a valve stem AND REALLY TAKES THE EDGE OF THE ROCKS / ROUGH STUFF - and obviously more traction. I have SLIME in my tubes & I also carry a SLIME COMPRESSOR with me - plugs into my BATTERY TENDER plug - quick & easy - just takes a couple of minutes.... If strictly off road & I'm putting the bike in the truck, I air them down before I leave as that ride will only see pavement for maybe a short period of time.
LOVE YOUR WORK !!!!!!
Congrats on not ripping valve stems at those pressures without rim locks! I found that even at 15psi I was getting slippage of the tyre and those valve stems were leaning... mind you, I used to ride a lot more aggressively back in those days.
Really gotta mention pressure gauge’s guys, they are pretty inaccurate across the board and most tend to become less accurate over time. Nearly all my gauges read different.. I carry a 60 psi Jaco gauge and a lil hand pump, I’m really enjoying playing with different pressures on the loops I do. It’s amazing the difference it makes!
Also No digital no batteries a simple combo that just stays in the bag👍
I’ve always carried a small air pump, I haven’t needed it myself yet but I’ve lost count how many times I’ve met other riders out the bush with slow leaks/flat tyres that are happy to borrow it 👍
It's funny how many don't carry one, Aaron... even though they are tiny. My brother has his under the seat of his Beta RR300 and there's barely any room there at all, but it still fits.
I'm new to dual sport and a couple of months ago I took my new Italian Princess Beta 390RRS up to visit my mom. Next day I went dirt biking and forgot to adjust my tire pressure back down and was dismayed how poor the traction was. After a little while I remembered about my road ride the day before and rode back to the truck to adjust the pressure back down and man what a difference. A stupid story I know but one learned first hand by me. I like 8 in back. And 11 up front. This works for my speed and varying terrain where I ride. When I where out my tires I'm going Tubliss but I'm too lazy to change just yet and my stock Michelins are surprisingly good.
Hopefully you'll enjoy TUbliss, our whole group is on them now. For our slow technical riding we only run about 3psi which is the equivalent of around 6psi... incredible grip! But poor handling at speed of course.
Don't feel bad, I had been riding trails for weeks, then left on a 3 day road ride with tires still at the dirt pressure. About half way into the trip my buddy noticed the low pressure but by then my tire was ruined. Weird wear patterns. I had to swap it out shortly after the ride.
Valve tool and bike pump are easy to carry. Get a high pressure pump and you'll be able to use it with your tubliss setup too.
Mine constantly leaked so was handy in that respect too 😂
I find it worth it to experiment but only change pressures on the Adv bike if I am going to be off-road for long periods (1+ hours) before getting back on the pavement. Currently run sidewall pressure (34) on the road and 25-30 on the dirt for the 890 Adv R with Bridgestone AX41s.
Love mousse inserts on the WR450, great traction... but more importantly, peace of mind!
Same here, Matt. I won't drop the pressures if I'm only on dirt for less than an hour. I don't mind the bike skating around a bit on gravel... adds to the challenge!
Had a Yamaha XT225 and Kawasaki KLR 650. Once I lowered the pressure down to 18psi front, 14psi rear, I never went back. To me, it made a world of difference.
😎👍
Excelente video, interesante e instructivo.
Yo utilizo Tubliss en mi Husky TE300 la delantera 14psi (menos solo sirva para pinchar) y 5psi en la traerá (tracciona magnifica mente y al tener mucho balón difícilmente pincha)
Ahora estoy adentrándome en el mundo adventure y estoy experimentando, en principio tal como sugieres al final del video: utilizando las presiones recomendadas por el fabricante.
Gracias y saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
I stay at road pressure and accept the traction limits. I'd never had a flat with my radials on gravel highway until a track in Oz. The locals asked if I had good tires and I had more than 50% left on my good Michelin T66. They said I should adjust my air pressure because of sharp rocks, but I didn't and that was the only flat I' d had .
I've seen 21" pinch flats on undeveloped highway at normal pressure.
I must admit I often just stay at road pressures nowadays too, Chris. If the ride only involves, say, 25% dirt roads I'll just skate around and enjoy the challenge of less traction.
All good info there 😎👍 For me (DR650) 25 front and rear- tar, gravel roads, mud and beach sand. Too lazy to change, and adjust my riding to suit the surface.
Same here, I've been running around 25psi for my first 4000km simply because there's been a lot of road riding so far... when we get seriously offroad I'll go down to 18psi and have rimlocks fitted by then.
Thais only check their air pressures on a partial eclipse, hence every tyre has 75psi in it. This is checked by pressing your thumb into the tread.....it theres ANY sign of movement add 30psi until solid.
Same in Vietnam 👍🏻
That's what I call precision air pressure monitoring!
After watching this I feel comfortable going 25psi front Mitas e-07 and 27psi rear Motos GPS. 20% asphalt, 80% dirt and trails. Versys-x 300. Recommended 28 and 32. I'm weary of pinching tubes on rocks when ripping through atv trails so would never go lower.
I'm not sure how much difference it makes, but you could always try some of that green Slime or a similar product in your tubes. With luck it will fix small punctures and might even reduce pinch punctures. Some riders put talc and even grease on the outside of the tube for this reason, although I'm not really sure how much this reduces pinch flats and if it's a great idea or not.
Tubliss is also great for keeping dirt out of the inside of your tires and bead seating areas. Especially at low pressure, this is a great way to get a flat on a conventional tube system. Get some dirt and or debris in there and I've had the friction (over time) cause abrasions in the tube that have left me sitting when I wanna be riding. Tubliss seals things up even at
Our group loves TUbliss, pretty much zero issues over five years.
How is road riding on the tubliss system. I have a 250 l, so I am not doing insane speeds on road (or off road 😉). But Tubliss is like this will explode if you put it near tarmac 😄....
Will it? 😳
@@usbsol No it's fine on road. You just may want to adjust your tire pressure accordingly. The system itself won't be any issue.
Even on my light enduro bike, I always start the ride with high pressures (around 1.5atm ~ 22psi) and air down when I start to lose traction too much. I often even air down in a middle of a climb. It can be tricky to learn airing down with one hand while balancing the bike with other while not falling, since the hill was steep enough to stop me in my tracks, but it's easy get used to it. I only air up once I get very low (0.4-0.6atm ~6-9PSI) or when I'm about to do a longer road section.
It takes under a minute to air down and under 5 minutes to air up (I have a stripped mini 12v compressor), so it's not a bother.
I remember once being stuck on a mild but muddy climb... it took a few goes before I finally realised the solution was go very low PSI just to get up and out. Then pump the rear up again. Very handy!
You’re on the money, I run 24/25 psi on my 640 Adventure.
I run 7psi in the front & rear of my dirt bike
& On my road bike, 38 front & 42 rear.
Love the information you provide, Please keep up these videos!
Will do, Max! It's a lot of work doing these vids and the enduro channel as well but I'll see how long I can keep it going...
@@crosstrainingadventure Awesome, thanks Barry!
I ride a yamaha xtz 125 (114 kg in order to ride) with tubes and no rimlocks. I use info from yamaha manuals.
Yamaha xtz 125: 22
Yamaha xtz 250 lander: 18 front 22 rear
Yamaha ttr 230: 15
I made a lot of tests,
And go to 12 for off road
My cousin use the bike and put 27 to ride rocks, just sucks.
Good tip regarding the valve stem but. Been doing this for years, i recommend it.
I learned the hard way... two or three ripped stems over the years lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah no patching that.
If there is other people running Tubliss in here, I would like to hear your experience about the air lost that Nuetech talk about (basically they say that we should check the pressure every ride). Personally, both of my tire have been relatively air tight and the small bladder usually don't lose more than 3 to 5psi per week. I have tried it with and without slime and I have not seen any difference on that subject.
Once you go Tubliss, you never go back 😉
Ditto, Cedri... in our group it's always been about 5psi drop each week. I suspect when guys have air leaks they probably didn't fit them correctly. Funny how many refuse to read the instructions lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure are you talking about the small bladder or the tire ? Because personally my tire are really close to a tube for being air tight.
Inner bladder, Cedric.
Your in Australia maybe Queensland with the footage I guess tyre pressure is always set the same and don't really change it much I have a usb rechargeable tyre pump it's light, fast and rechargeable and can take it anywhere and easy to use plus it has a light and I also have a tyre gauge which keeps a accurate record for my needs the tyre slime is good for lots other reasons so stay upright ok
Personally, I just run the OEM pressures on my DRZ of 18F and 20R both on and off road and have learnt to adjust my riding style. As with everything dual sport, it's a compromise.
I know some riders obsess over the perfect PSI but of course another option is just learning to ride better and actually enjoying the challenge of skating around on loose gravel. It might be laziness too in my case lol.... but I don't drop my pressures unless I'll be on dirt for most of the ride.
The manual of my Yamaha xt 600 E has the specifications for tire pressure but not only for road use, you have on road normal use , off road, high load , and high speed.... quite usefull
The good old XT600E, haven't seen one of those for a while! Enjoying it?
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah, i love the bike, hard as rock and really easy to ride, and i have one of the rarest models here the one with the purple tank.
I remember when the first TT500 came out when I was a teenager... talk about lusting after a bike lol.
@@crosstrainingadventure haha,lol , for me my yamaha xt its just what i need .An every day bike,not terrible on the highway, with decent offroad capabilities and not very heavy to make it easier for me to ride because my riding level isn't the best(getting better but im still a beginner).
I’m running 31 PSI on the rear and 29 PSI on the front of my BMW R 1200 GSA. I’m wondering if that’s too low on the front. I’m not off-road as much these days. I’m running tubeless Dunlop Trailmax Missions. If I were off road as much now, I know that would be fine.
just kick your tyre good if it will not touch the rim you're good to go. Personally I move slowly towards mousses on front wheel.
For dirt riding I gave up using a gauge years ago... just put a knee into the tyre to check it. 😁
just my own experience but on my KTM500 with tubes, no rim locks and aggressive riding I run:
30 on road
20 on dirt, gravel, rocks
10-15 on sand and snow, mud
never go under 10. the bike has 11k miles and 400H and I've never had a tire or tube issue.
side note: I have had 2 friends on similar bikes who forgot to pump up and have ridden for hours on road with 13psi, no issues
Thanks for sharing sounds easy to remember too, I'm gonna try your recommendations
Very interesting, in my experience at 10psi I'd have the tyre slipping a bit on the rim and eventually ripping the valve stem tube.... if I didn't have rimlocks. Those figures sound about right! One thing I love with TUbliss is you can run almost flat tyres for slippery conditions... crazy amounts of grip.
@@crosstrainingadventure yea id love to try tubliss but unless they changed it from the last time I looked they say not recommended for the road. and my bike is both a weekend dirt warrior and work day commuter
@@SawyerKnight no cop will notice 😉
I actually emailed the TUbliss guys a few years back, they said zero problems as far as they could see but getting DOT approval would cost a fortune... as Cedric says the cops won't notice.
Cheers for the vid - off topic but what did you use to film the parts where cam circles the biks??
Not sure which bit you mean, it might be our 360 cam? Details in our budget drone alternative vid. Or it might be our homemade swivel cam, Chris. Details in our vid about Gopro mounts. 😊
i always appreciate your vids mate, keep the knowledge coming
Will do, glad you are enjoying the vids. 👍😎
My shinko 705 front does not like below 35psi
KLX650R at 25psi cause i really hate flats and dont really mind sliding around
The green hippo! A real shame they discontinued these, I had a ball with mine years ago. A very old vid from 2008.... ruclips.net/video/tu8N1XYO284/видео.html
Great vid cobba I run many different pressures for the terrain I’m guna ride and the bike I’m on flexibility is key a great go to is 20 front 18 rear will work everywhere on most bikes just saying cheers
For single cylinder bikes I reckon that's a good compromise for a mix of road and dirt. I know with the DR650 I have to get it up more around 25 to 30 for just road road riding or I get weird wear patterns on the front and both ends wear out faster.
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah the transalp is the same but for short stints between tracks I don’t change it back for the west coast dunes it 8 front 6 rear but the tyres can hold the bead well k60 scout f Dunlop d608 rear very different to the xr660 and the Xt250 I think I’ve never checked the lil XR hundy it just goes everywhere hehe
I've never been very finnicky with air pressures. I run somewhere around 25psi both ends, maybe even 30 if there's not dirt at all. When we finally get into some serious offroad I'll go down to 20 and have rimlocks fitted.
@@crosstrainingadventure rim locks are the trick mate had a bugger of a time fitting them to the tubeless set up on the transalp couldn’t get a seal went to tubes but once I did the fork swap Africa twin set and 21 “ front changed the game big bor 800 kit also and remap she’s a beast jumps well handels it all I’m hoping the new transalp is as good I’ll get one if they do it right we’re spoilt for choice really u take care baz cheers mate
18psi all I ever run F/R xr400 on off road works ace for me
The mighty XR400! I think that was my first ever bike vid shot on video tape lol. ruclips.net/video/MdWW1a1q7RI/видео.html
Thanks for the vid!
Can you please comment on choice of tubes? There usually are standard tubes with thickness ~1mm, the thicker tubes of around 2,5mm and some heavy duty tubes with 4mm thickness (there may be more options I'm not aware of). What would be safe pressures to run with these tubes if you have rim locks? Should you even run standard 1mm tubes with rim locks and air pressures below, lets say, 14 psi without risking a lot of pinch punctures?
Too many variables to make specific recommendations. Rider weight, bike weight, type of terrain, type of riding etc etc.
Up to 20%? Most service stations I've been to have no gauge at all. Just a compressor, IF that...
Hye how many air pressure into motorbike 70cc mondial 4strock oil pst pressure
I had a Cheng Shin front dirt tire on my DR 650 that had such a stiff carcass I could run it on 5 PSI. I had to use a die grinder to cut the bead to get that tire off my rim. Horrible.
They are still making those?! They have been around for years now, I assumed they'd closed down. Personally I'd prefer to not go with a Chinese brand. My budget go-to-brand is Shinko... Japanese designed tyres made in South Korea.
Just converted my 480rr to adv spec. On dirt roads…for fun factor it’s hard to beat about 26psi and a rat shit bald rear knob.
Sliding around effortlessly, good GT 216 up front with about 12 psi. Happiness
I loved my RR480, Steve... fun in the dirt and on dirt roads. I assume you know about replacing those plastic gears at 100 hours?
@@crosstrainingadventure yes did it at about 90, did not go the steel route as the plastic is basically only a few dollars worth.
👍 Yeah those steel replacements are expensive.
Excellent video
Cheers Souhail
Great video mate. Is that drone footage? Looks really trick hehe
Yep, I asked supporters if they'd like drone footage so there was some help to buy the Skydio autonomous drone... reviewed it on this channel. 😊
Very good video
I've gone as low a 8 psi with rim locks on skatey pea gravel and held back on the throttle.
What sized bike?
Any other great video thanks Guys
I understood spoke tyres had to have tubes? Noting the puncture coments at the end.
There's the TUbliss system which in effect makes spoked wheels into tubeless...
Hi, have you ever used tubliss for adventure bikes? Dr650, KTM 690, and so... How was it?
As per the vid, you can't on a DR650 rear, Sebastian. But yeah some of our guys have used them on 18"/21" wheelsets with zero issues.
my used klx came with single rimlocks and terrible balance, shaky at hwy speed on blacktop. to balance took shitload of weights. do you recommend two opposing rimlocks?
Never tried it. I usually just slap on enough weights to stop the shakes.
Xt500 22psi
What's the absolute lowest PSI for deep sand on a 500 pound bike?
Rider weight? Luggage? Rim locks? How stiff are the tyre sidewalls? Ply? Tubeless or what type of tubes? There's no one size fits all answer.
0psi
@@jgruen9854 i cant argue with that
Have you guys ever ridden a husky wr250 or wr360?
Not yet
eyup bazza i want some knob firming air send me the link
Clamping knobs for males? www.bolt.com.au/handles-knobs-production-clamping-handles-male-c-2285_2295.html
@@crosstrainingadventure cheers baz ;D
Warning, I have tried these and have been in lot of pain for several months now. 🤔
LMFAO ;D
@@crosstrainingadventure LMFAO ;D
Wiggle and pull the tool
That's what she said
I find 13.4 psi to be the perfect tire pressure any deviation of even 0.1 psi and I become a sucky rider.
Same here... although I find tongue positioning and the correct amount of eye squinting are critical to get it right.
@@crosstrainingadventure my wife agrees with that technique
😂
Tubliss, resistance is futile.....
😂 True dat.
I love Tubliss on my 2T Betas, and ran it on a tagged 450 EXC I commuted on. However, didn't think they were advisable for twin cylinder ADV bike (Tenere 700) due to chances of extended asphalt rides and speeds over 80 mph.
Have you heard more recent test info, or am I doomed to dealing with those ANNOYING tubes again? YES, I fully accept the dangers of taking advice from pink tutu wearing Muppets. No need for caveats.
I did ask the TUbliss guys if they'd ever do a 17 inch setup for the DR650, Clinton... (maybe). I asked about the adventure bikes and they said it's just too expensive getting DOT approval but they couldn't see problems running the system on bigger bikes, as long as the rims are still narrow. T7 rear rim is probably too wide. 🤔
@@crosstrainingadventure I don't worry about a DOT stamp, but thanks for mentioning the rim width issue. Did they give max rim width info?
No but the website will tell you all the models they can fit
@@crosstrainingadventure I'm embarrassed to say I found that last night. Sorry to bother you with such an obviously easy to answer question!
No worries, Clinton! As you probably know I usually don't go looking for links unless someone has really had trouble finding it... and offers a large cash incentive lol.
Tubliss with a 505 cheater out back - 5psi. Anything less than 15 up front with the fatty feels too dead and steers like Russian tank.
On what sort of bike?
@@crosstrainingadventure 06 KTM 300 XC - made a world of difference in the silt and deep sand in Utah and the rock/gravel single track here in Colorado. On the F800GS, I have to drop just a bit below street pressures on the rear Motoz tractionator or else it just digs straight down. Maybe 25 is as far as I go. I keep the front at street pressure due to the weak design of the factory rims.
Gotcha. Yeah I love TUbliss! I run something like 2 to 3psi front and rear on my Beta Xtrainer for all our slow gnarly rides... works a treat.
As a European watching this I need a second window open to calculate the pressures in bar every five seconds
But 1 bar = 100kpa so I figured it's an easy conversion. There would just be too much clutter on the screen if I gave all three measurements throughout the vid.
@@crosstrainingadventure Oh boy. I'm a bit dense as it turns out. Didn't even see the conversions on screen. That's what you get for whatching RUclips on a phone screen while cooking...
I keep forgetting lots of viewers are using their phones! I edit and watch vids on a massive tv set and then I have trouble with my eyesight sometimes lol. Enjoy your dinner... 😎
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks! Dinner turned out pretty good actually 😅
Anyways. I usually like watching on bigger screens too. But in the kitchen the phone comes in handy. Either for recipes or the occasion enduro video 🏍️💨
I have converted tube type spoke wheels to tubeless tires using the following method ruclips.net/video/JPzoqi_4X7o/видео.html Have done 2 Africa twins, 2 CB500x with Rally Raid wheels and 1 Kawasaki KLX 300sm and all are still working fine, in loose terrain and slow going I have run down to 10psi. The video is done by an engineer who is quite anal. The only thing I have done different is giving up on his 17$ aluminum valve stems and simply cut the stems out of old inner tubes (use the round circle as the guide) Use the Marine calk to seal the stem and run tape over the top of it cutting an air hole so the whole thing works. Barry experiment on your DR and let us know how it goes!
I thought about it but the problem is so many guys report failures with the DR650 when they've tried... even with the DR650-specific kit you can buy. I'm just going heavy duty tubes instead with some Slime inside to minimise pinch punctures.
@@crosstrainingadventure The advantage of the tube is the ability to run lower tire pressures if you have rim locks installed. I have run the Tublliss system and Nitro Mousse. For Dual sport use I will follow the video and convert spoke wheels to tubeless with great confidence. Thanks for all your great work.
Coincidence that Brett tkacks just released a video on this??
Brett who? Are you suggesting he copied my video, Jane?
I found him... you mean 'Bret Tkacs'? I couldn't see any recent vid of his covering air pressure. And in any case I first covered this topic on my enduro channel back in 2016, so maybe he's copying me. 😂
2 days ago he did a myth video. I'm not saying you copied him lol, just coincidence
Check out his videos, he teaches seminars on enduro/adventure riding.
80psi never worry. Lol
😂
I love the video except the image of me in my Speedos you clearly stole off my Facebook page. I demand you Photoshop me to have the physic of a Greek god
Looked damn fine just the way you are Mick... a babe magnet! 😎😂
@@crosstrainingadventure yeah I'm a regular Don Juan.. the ladies Don Juan anything to do with me🤣
😂
Best air pressure is manufacturer recommended. Air them properly and leave them alone.