Yep.....Had this same issue years ago and solved it with a slip clutch. Go to your "local" bearing/drive component supply house and get the Love Joy coupler that has 1/2 with the correct spline. Take all the parts to your local machine shop and get them slip coupler turned down on the side that has the U joint connection. This same shop can then weld in the 1/2 part from the Love Joy to the slip clutch. This sounds like a lot, but after you spend the money and time to replace this several times, you have more than paid for the custom part. In may case I got lucky and could but only the 1/2 of the Love Joy that I needed. Hope this helps. Love the channel!!
I recommend taking the two halves you already have to your machine shop to have the two surfaces that face each other machined flat and true. Then weld identical chain sprockets to both pieces so a double wide chain ring encircling both sprockets ties them together. This solves the problem of finding that one odd spline. 😎👍
I know I'm late to the game, but if you ever need to replace that coupler, consider a rubber tire coupler. Heavy hollow donut bolted to the coupler on either shift. Does double duty by being a shock absorber as well as a flex joint so the 2 shafts don't need to be perfectly aligned. We had a big-ass one on a 10', 3 blade rotary cutter we used for chopping cotton stalks after picking and prior to plowing. Worked great and we only replaced one donut in the 20 plus years we used it and that was due more from AZ desert heat and trash wearing on it than anything else.
Weld gussets on the hydraulic motor support plate. So that it can’t flex or bend backwards under load. The stout gearbox won’t move but that weak sauce motor mount will flex away from thrust.
I believe he was saying that the part of the deck was flexing underneath the mounting bracket. Reinforcing the mount wouldn't be a bad idea though. When he was talking about adding a bracket to the two pieces of framing, I'm sure he was trying to take the torque from the motor and transfer it into the frame rails.
On the brush cutter I built I just used a 1/2" through-bolt to attach a chain coupler to the gearbox shaft and that has always worked fine. Your problem isn't shock loads it's shaft misalignment. The pressure relief valve and many feet of hydraulic line in the machine are more than enough to absorb and dissipate the small pressure spikes caused by hitting solid objects. However, as you noted the shafts are allowed to flex away from each other under load which grinds away at the rubber insert and then at the soft metal of the chinese jaw coupler (hence the heat). I would reinforce the motor mount like you said then find a way to attach a chain coupler to each shaft and you should be set. No matter how you attach it the chain coupler will be way better than the jaw coupler.
It looks like an Eaton 2K motor and should have a standard output shaft. There should be a tag on the tail off the motor with the part number, you can use that to find out exactly which that option that motor has. I would also consider installing a cross port relief valve, that should give your over torque protection. As others have pointed out, check with major hydraulics suppliers for coupling options.
I built my own from scratch. I works great, just used a regular U-joint from a bush hog for my connection between the motor and the gear box. Several years and it is still going.
@@MustObeyTheRules no, getting old now but in the 90s was in the States 3 plus x a year on business from upstate New York to the Florida Keys, along the Louisiana coast to Houston and up in Utah and Arizona, driving is so easy, apart from New Jersey Turnpike. Always found people to be friendly, just not as well travelled as Europeans. Love this channel and the Doc's.
Get some heavy walled pipe that fits inside of itself weld the pipes onto the coupler ends and pin the two pipes together with a shear bolt. The bolt will break before anything else will
I use chain coupler on a 2 hp feeder for poultry low speed operating and would shatter before it slipped the chain is pinned tight. It would make up for misalignment some but I do not think it would tolerate the torque and shock in your application. Keep the vidjas coming.
For your spline sizing it's measured over the largest diameter of the spline. There are also "permanent fit" and "slide fit" which have different internal diameters. Permanent fit have a larger internal diameter than slide fit, ie the depth of the tooth to the spline is shallower on a permanent fit. For a nom 1" 6 spline, the OD range is 0.999" and 1.000" and ID range for permanent is 0.899" and 0.900" and to slide no load is 0.849" to 0.850" and to slide under load is 0.799" to 0.800". Your comments about the movement of the hydraulic drive motor is of concern. If you think about the loading, and what happens with an impact such as when you hit something, the motor will move (attempt to rotate) in one direction but the gearbox in the opposite, but you cannot see that under the cover. That could indicate there it's flex in the deck or the bracket that is holding the hydraulic drive motor, so your suggestion of stiffening that up has merit. Even putting triangular plates into the L each side would strengthen that mounting plate. Also having the two shafts as accurately aligned as possible will certainly extend any couplings life, and use of a slip clutch will help with impact loading. Hope that has been of help.
realign it, cut the ends off clean, weld on some flat steel onto both sides, give it two bolts as sheer pins , done, and you got a failure point thats less than 50 cents to replace or : weld the motor side of the old coupler onto the safety clutch you have and install it , realign the motor and reinforce the motor mount , alsso you might want to brace the rear of the motor, like with a sheet metall snair and a second bracket
Problem with the two - bolt idea is it will tend to pull the motor and box together as torque is increased. (unless the two plates are flush with each other... but then there's no longer any tolerance of misalignment. Rather machine a round into the ears of the yolk and weld-in the old lovejoy motor-end splined bush. Yes... Totally agree with idea of bracketing the rear of the hydra motor as this will rectify the torque reaction problem and be an easier solution to prevent misalignment at the coupling than a cross member.
@@jimmycricket5366 well we did the bolt idea for our mulchmower , we put a 3mm ruber sheet between witch cussions possible misalignment ofc this also gets shredded if you shear the bolts off. maschining the bracket flush and reccessing the friction clutch plate after cutting off the ears thenaligning and welding it on is just the very best option there is
Maybe Walterschied might have what your after they specialize in drive lines for agricultural machinery and have a huge selection of yokes and stuff so it might be a good idea to look at them or Weasler which is another agricultural drive linecompany
The JCT website lists that as a parker motor. The spline could be a 1" SAE 6B spline. I think the next weak link will be the gearbox. I'd figure out a coupling that would "give" The joy type was probably used for this reason. The clutch-type would be a lot of mass I would think about more support/mounts/ bearings if going that route. Straightening up the alignment would help.
If it has a 1/4-20 UNC-2B threaded hole in the end of the shaft then it's almost certainly SAE-6B. I don't know about the Parker, but maybe you can replace just the output shaft for something else that's easier to get a coupler
I have nothing to do with farming, agriculture or heavy industry and live in a city of London. Your channel has completely captivated me, wow nothing in common and very much enjoyable watch nearly through all your videos.
Look at tractor supply company tsc . I got a 6 spline and weld a spocket to both sides and made a chain coupler for my dozer for hydraulic pump no issues 👍👍
Matt I think that you have the solution right there with the slip clutch idea that you proposed at the end of the video. If you brought this into my fab shop I would repair it exactly the same as your idea. I really like your videos and ones like this in particular were you work with everyone to solve a problem and come up with a creative solution ...awesome video looking forward to seeing the next one. Take care and keep the dirt flying best wishes from Iowa
You’ve done a good job of convincing me to not buy a cheap brush cutter. Those blades or the whole hub could come back, ricochet off the ground and come into the cab. This is my next attachment and I’m going to save my money and get what I pay for. Thanks for the education!
That slip clutch is far too heavy for your application. Its mass will destroy the bearings in your pump and gearbox, and the inertia of the driven half is likely to destroy the gearbox if you hit an obstacle with the blade. Your other suggestions are good but if you can't find what you need, you could repurpose a rubber donut out of a small toyota rear wheel drive car's driveshaft. Cut both ends off the toyota's driveshaft. Cut the splines off your existing coupling halfs and weld them together.
Mercedes also have a similar flex coupling for their driveshafts. That may work. Details here: www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-flex-disc-problems-symptoms-cost/
That slip clutch would be fine if it was cleaned up and refurbished a bit. You tension the springs to the application. The gear box is slinging about 60-70 pounds of blades, adding a couple of pounds of close rotating steel plates won't bother it a bit. The motor would probably be more impacted by the weight and I'd have more concern for on the output shaft bearing, but if that fails, he can replace it with a better bearing or a much more 'suited to the task' motor and I feel that is the weak point of the entire design. That motor looks pretty small to be doing the workload it is, and with the heat he is claiming, if that's from the motor, it's just too small to survive for years and years in that role. If I were in this position and I had the money, I'd take this opportunity to upgrade the motor now, put the right clutch on it with a larger PTO-sized/splined output shaft hydraulic motor and a beefier mounting plate, even pushing it back on the mount panel more. I'd give myself some alignment room on the new mount as well.
The Slip clutch will work just fine, its weight is being supported by both the gear box and the motor, and with the spring tension being backed off just a bit, it will give before any damage occurs. and it should last forever :).
Bolt on the slip clutch. Counter bore the yoke for the other side of uni joint to the od of the existing lovejoy coupler for a tight press fit. Press it in and lock it with a few grub bolts. Reposition the motor further back for longer coupling then brace that sucker real well. Slip will provide protection and uni will take up minor misalignment. Any tractor shop or driveline rebuilder can do the very basic machining.
I'll third that suggestion! :) Or, maybe better, package them up and send them off to Abom79, he'll make it look like something that came out of a factory...
To me it appears we have two issues. #1 is a coupler, and #2 is alignment of a coupler between the motor and the gearbox. Unless I'm missing something, it appears the respective splines fit their respective shaft ends. Why can't you simply (A) put each spline end on your lathe and face the separate spline end segments to provide mating faces. Then true and weld the two freshly faced ends together. Obviously you need to ensure straight alignment, but you don't have to worry about spline alignment since the motor and gearbox can turn and align independently on the fabricated new coupler. Now for (B), you will have to loosen all the fastening bolts on the motor and gearbox then align the motor and gearbox using the new coupler (eliminating angles). Once aligned, you will need to fabricate, in either heavy angle iron or square stock (as you described), new support brackets. Also, you will have to deal with any tolerance gaps between the old mounting holes and the need to widen them or create new ones.
#DieselCreek i agree with wut others have said. remove the yoke on the other coupler and attach one of the broken love joint coupler halfs where the yoke was
In the refinery, we had thousands of couplings on high horsepower equipment. We standardized on Falk Steelflex couplings. As with any coupling, they cannot withstand much misalignment. We used dual reverse indicator alignment techniques. Your pedestal and base are too flexible to achieve and maintain precision alignment.
I'm late to the party. There's no reason for that motor to be where it's at. Move it backwards towards the supports. That'll help with the flexing. Then you'll have space to fit your slip clutch in there. Weather or not you've gotta use the knuckled fitting
That bush hog is basically a PTO driven design with a hydraulic motor attached, so the correct coupling is indeed a spring slip clutch. Most replies here have suggested just welding the broken coupling onto the other side of the clutch, and that will work, but you are still stuck with alignment issues as the spring clutch is not meant for that, and if you have any significant misalignment, you will eventually destroy the clutch. Instead, that's what the U joint from the PTO drive shaft would have been for.. My suggestion: if you have enough clearance, you can reverse that motor bracket on the deck and move the motor back towards the rear, thus giving you room for an actual U joint. Then just get a machine shop to weld together the broken motor coupler and a couple of straps for a U-joint.
Cane across this today. Got called over to a buddy's property and found this exact issue. Found the big coupler fits on a old Ford PTO, but the smaller one is a misnomer. Have a older slip clutch that looks exactly like the one you found with a yoke on it. Was thinking about cutting off the yoke flanges and just welding the smaller coupling directly to it. May have to drill 4 more holes to move the hydraulic pump to correct position, but that's the easy part of the job.
@@DieselCreek Christopher C. 1 day ago (edited) Forget using U joint coupling for this application, they won't last very long , trust me I have tried using that prop shaft with U joints system , it only works if there is some sort of cushioning in the drive line . like going through a clutch device on that old unit you have, the best type is a tire type . stromag periflex shaft couplers , they are bloody expensive but you might find another make that are more wallet friendly, best of luck .
After reinforcing that drive unit, put a sleeve over both splines. Weld the motor end, Fasten the business end with a shear pin. Simple to fix, no slippage, same principle that snowblower impellers use if they hit a rock.
Great option, I agree too. Weld that Chinese spline female to where the Spicer joint normally goes after removing the knuckles? Matt seems to be engineering challenged on these situations otherwise just add the correct half a spicer to it? He knows his way around deisle engines really well.
Honestly, your best bet may be to mill off the u-joint flange on your slip joint and weld on your coupler from your lovejoy. If you were closer to Michigan, I'd tell you to stop by and I'd put it on the lathe and fix you up. It could be beefed up plenty. I've done this exact repair a few times with good results. That lovejoy setup really wasn't the best for a brushhog, especially as undersized as it was. I would definitely reinforce that mount too, probably in both directions. Good luck brother.
Just what I was thinking. I've never run into a 1" 6-spline, but was thinking it's probably a 1 1/8" 6 spline. But being Chinese made, who knows? A 1 1/8" 6-spline yoke or adapter should be fairly easy to find.
Based on where this shows measurement points, I'm fairly sure that's a 1 1/8" 6-spline paulbparts dot com/product/weasler-pto-implement-yoke-domestic-14-series-1-1-8-6-spline-bore/
Add a C-channel for reinforcement. Relocate the motor and use v-belts. This would be and easy way to deal with the misalignment, and a spring-loaded tensioner will help isolate the shock loads.
@@robj2704 he can get the pump machined, or just buy a new pump for it, agrisupply sells an 11.5hp replacement hydro motor that works for most big brand cutters, He could spend the $179 and get it over with!
Talk to a marine technician about how to align shafts. Reinforce your motor mount & then shim the pump to exact alignment with feeler gauges or calipers. Use a fabric coupler, (like an auto steering shaft) & you've got impact, alignment, and shear taken care of.
You have quite a conundrum there, but you are at the point to where you need to decide to fix it correctly, abandon it, or sell it. As you know the love-joy is mostly to help forgive misalignment, not real great at absorbing huge shocks over and over. When using this cutter in heavy stuff you are going to have to have some type of slip clutch or shear pins-bolts unless you feel like doing time consuming repairs each time you hit something unforgiving. The slip clutch is easiest, It is made from cast though and welding and modifying options are limited unless you find a double splined one. The spline shafts and bearings will need to be able to support the weight of a slip clutch. Some one also mentioned getting a spline coupler for each spline and welding a circular plate to each one and putting a couple of shear bolts in and mating them up that way. That is a really good idea also and simple and inexpensive to replace shear bolts each time. You may could also pull the Hyd motor spline and replace it with a spline to match your gearbox. Hope you find a solution and I am sure I have not told you anything you did not already know or think of and the video quality was fine!
Why not rotate the hydraulic motor and right-angle drive such that the shafts are parallel, and rig up two sheaves and a belt drive? You've got a lot of slack in the hydraulic hoses, and the gear box looks to be on a 4 hole pitch circle... you could even weld the L-bracket for the hydraulic motor if drilling & tapping new mounting holes in the deck is problematic. Alignment is till an issue, but eating belts is a lot cheaper than Lovejoy couplers should things go wrong, and you have shear protection from overloads. If you want to get fancy, use a timing belt and pulleys...
Hello; First thing I would do is Put a plate on the underside. Clean the area very well and then weld your plate to that overlapping the frame at least on 2 opposing sides. Then I would remove the hydraulic motor bracket turn it around so that the upright is toward the cab using the same mounting holes. Now your motor/deck won't flex and you have more room for your coupler. By the way if you would "button-hole" the deck it would give you areas to weld the plate from above. If you choose to leave your bracket as it is I still would use the plate underneath as this will not affect the height of the motor. In order to find a coupler I would look on E-bay mentioning the the spline sizes. If not there I would contact a Good machine shop. I don't remember the brand but there was coupler that used something like a small rubber tire adhered to flanges etc.. Good luck and sometimes it's cheaper and faster just to make it (or have it made for you) yourself.
Good vids man , wouldn't have noticed that you were using your phone :) cheers for spending the time to make the videos , also like the fact that you don't pretend to know everything
I was wondering could you modify a couple of yoke from a small rear wheel drive and a Universal joint. Just a thought you might be able to find them at a pull apart. I hope that this helps. Have You check with Grainger Might be able to help Or modern welding Might be able to rebuild the ends.
I’d say the best bet would to put the slip clutch unit on the gearbox side. My ancient Hardee bush hog has just such a unit hanging on it’s input shaft, that thing is still running after 45 years or better. Adapt a u-joint to the hydro motor, move it back far enough to put a short driveshaft between them. I guess your biggest issue is the coupling flange with the unknown spline. Could you weld a u-joint hub to the existing one? The u-joint drive would tolerate the shaft misalignment, the slip clutch would protect the hydro motor. Little bit of fab work, but seems better than the other options mentioned.
I’ll say what I would do...don’t take it the wrong way, but alignment is critical on that unit, what ever coupler you use it will last longer and not destroy the hydraulic motor or transmission in the future. The navy had an entire 2 week class on using the MAC (mini alignment computer) to teach people how to align motors and pumps...it was a fancy dial indicator. A chain type coupling is way to rigid in my view for a brush hog, I’d stick to a slip clutch or rubber coupling to take the shock force from hitting rocks and large tree stumps. kasinchain.en.made-in-china.com/product/VsamzXhvfBcW/China-FCL-Quick-Coupling-Type-280-Flexible-Rubber-Flange-Shaft-Couplings-Bolt-PB280-.html A coupling like that will allow some “slop” in alignment and still give you the ability to absorb shock loads, I just using that link as a reference, it’s probably made from old pop cans melted by a torch...
My high school buddy P.O. Gary Rinsem invented that alignment tool for the Navy when he served on the Praire AD-15. I've seen the commendation he recieved for it.
MedusalObligation I might have been trained on his technique! AD15 was an old ship, served a long time. I hated that Mini Alignment computer, and old chief taught me how to use a dial indicator with a magnetic stand and 6” machinist rule. If your buddy is the guy who invented the Mini Alignment Computer, I don’t mean to disrespect him, it was great at telling you exactly where your soft foot was and exactly what shims were needed to have near perfect alignment, I just wasn’t smart enough to remember what inputs were needed to be entered into it to get the correct results. I was better with my Skillcraft US Government pen and my wheel book, and making a drawing. The one thing I always did, don’t think I invented it, because I’d seen it a lot when years later I served as a Boiler Inspector at SURFLANT, but once I had my alignment down, I’d stamp the shin thickness in the feet, and drill and install a rigid dowl pin. A lot of people did that, so they reached the same conclusion.
@@Unclejake Gary invented the 2 dial indicator fixture and clamp and developed a graph that showed the misalignment in thousands of an inch and polar coordinate. You clamped it own the two shafts and rotated it. Made note of readings every 45degrees and used the chart. easy peasy. (he hated the computer)
MedusalObligation I remember that, the diesel guys (Enginemen) had a rig like that to align engines to generators (a lot more critical) and to check alignments when the ship was moved in and out of the water (drydocking). That’s awesome! I won the 1984 Energy Conservation award for coming up with a way to use the installed equipment already on the ship and burning waste oil, it wasn’t so much that the idea was new...I just documented the heck out of what I did and submitted it, really it’s because my CO was a Captain Bligh. John Lehman (Secretary of the Navy) came to ship and awarded it too me, the command gave me a Navy Achievement medal with my name spelled wrong, and even pronounced it wrong at the ceremony...that was the best part.
I was dealing with the same problem on my old Roscoe roller that I repowered with a Briggs & Stratton. Lovejoy couplers broke. Those chain and sprocket couplers work great. Especially if you don't have shit lined up exactly perfect. 👍
Since the hydraulic motor is just bolted to the deck, you can move it back toward the skid loader if you need more room for a bigger, better coupler -- just drill new mounting holes. Also, to make the motor more rigid on the deck, you only really need to put a gusset on the side of the mount that it torques toward, unless the deck is really flexing in both directions, rather than the mount. Then your angle plate idea is a good one. Since the hydraulic motor comes from the PRC, it might be metric, in which case it would probably be 25mm, if your 1" measurement is close. Oops, that's what I get for commenting before the end of the video!
You could use the slip clutch if you take your hydraulic motor bracket and turn it 180 degrees. That will give you more space and allow a u-joint on a short shaft to the motor.
Make that five in agreement but I would make a saddle type mount for that hydraulic pump to set down on and strap it across the top for support in lieu of building support just on the front
Do what most farmers do, put a shear bolt in that lashup. Buy a bag of shear bolts and when one breaks just replace it. It's cheap, works and saves the expensive parts on either side of that coupling.
being a welder I would combine the broken spider gear coupler with the clutch piece, cut off the Ujoint yoke, set up both sides on the brush cutter for alignment, tack in place, then do the full welds with like 045 duelshield fluxcore in at least 3 stringers, preferable 5 or 6 pass stringer stack like welding heavy equipment.
If you can get the inline better and square to each other the original lovejoy may still be the best setup you can get. Keep extra spiders around, but once lined up correctly the spiders should last a long time.
I just watched all the videos you posted on this it’s like you filmed my jct to the minute. I have my machine shop making a shear pin slip collar right now for mine. And revamping stump hopper to a larger one with 4’ blades. I can reach out to you with picture and the price my machine shop has it done I’m only about 45 minutes north of you.
Thanks I really appreciate that but I have a buddy that owns a machine shop and he takes care of me on that. I need to get the coupler fixed on mine still
Mill the beat faces of old coupler flat, weld together, use as solid coulpler. Put thick rubber mat under motor mount for shock? Take a motor mount with steel on both sides, weld that to old coupler, fix alignment.
0:11:00 I would also take two flat steel straps, put bolt holes in one end, give it a bend and run them forward from the forward hydro motor flange top to the forward beam of the mower. Combined with the angle iron they'd give a much better control on twist and torsion, can be some pretty cheap steel too. Sadly I think getting a bigger used motor that far exceeds the power need of the cutter would be the solution in the long... direct-drive spindle from something someone bent up maybe? That body looks very well made tbh.
You asked for it so, I'll give you my two cents. I would take what is left of those couplings, smooth off the damaged faces and weld a piece of keyed round stock on the ends. Then go to McMaster-Carr or similar company and select a coupling that you think will work. I would select a non interference coupler because if it fails only the coupling itself will be damaged. If it fails, you can try a different type next time.
P1 1 3/8 6 SPL B is the browning part number they make a 6018 chain coupling use a cover and lube for your dirty application. you will need a half for your straight keyed shaft too I sold Power Transmission items for over 30 years. Both are Good reputable companies.
Make a flat rubber coupler from some old thick conveyor belt webbing. Weld some 5/16” steel discs with three holes onto your broken coupler hubs. Punch six holes in the circle cut from the belt. Bolt it up using big fender washers. Bet it lasts longer than your old coupler. And definitely align your shafts.
I had thought about that but you would have 2 clutch plates together. In plate with the UJ mount is a fixed plate. Unless one can be welded good to the ring plate, it could work, but the spline shafts are different. Great idea though. I bet loads were thinking the same. :)
Mount the motor to the side and reinforce the deck with a plate .Put pulleys on the motor and gear box and run belts.They will slip if you hit something hard. Make a belt guard up.Also weld a hinge on your belt guard so its easy to change belts.
A slip clutch is your best bet, but one that is appropriately sized, No flexible coupling on the market is going to withstand a high torque impact that a rotary cutter can incur. Even though the blades are hinged to take up some of the impacts there are still large torque values transmitted back to the coupling. A belt setup could also be used, but would require additional engineering. Check with some local tractor supply companies, as this is really an agricultural piece of equipment.
Are you sure it's not a 1 1/8" 6 spline on that side instead of a 25mm? could adapt the below link with a couple adapters. www.agrisupply.com/fd-pto-slip-clutch/p/31951/
I like you point to a video link in the upper corner and then the link actually appears.👍 Most RUclipsrs I watch point to nothing...because they forget to edit the link in afterwards.
I make my own. Yes weld the spline that fits on the motor into the biggest rubber coupler you can find. The out put, use the slip clutch pto spline plate. with bolts in it holding short pieces of large rubber hose that fit into the biggest coupler you can find.
I think your idea of welding the spline on the slip clutch is the soundest one. That way you don't have to search for some unobtanium part that is probably going to fail anyway. That old clutch looks solid.
Try machining the yoke off the clutch coupler, hopefully it’s weld able material! You will probably have to center it up in a lathe and tack weld it! Good luck my friend, I’m a retired welder after 37 years! Hopefully it’s not a bad grade of castiron, maybe it’s cast steel! That would be great and weldable, good luck
@Diesel Creek It looks like its just flat plate with holes for the spring bolts... so with that said get some plate steel and a spline coupler(off the shelf or machined) and weld the two, remount to the slipclutch where the UJ plate was and it should work great with minimal expenditures. If the splines from the chinesium hydrodrive box is steel then thats one less thing you have to buy.
I’m not sure if it’s been said but I have made my own double chain couplers many times. I usually get my parts from Princess Auto up here in Canada. I’m sure Tractor Supply would have some of the needed 6 spline weld on hubs. Get 2 of whatever weld on hubs you need, 2 matching weld on sprockets, And some double roller chain.
Seperate the motor mount from the gearbox (move it closer to the cab) and then use a shortened driveshaft with a standard slip clutch assembly at the gearbox which has a std spline. A machine shop with a wire EDM can make a female spline quite easily, they cut the profile in a bit of sheet metal as a fit test and check it fits nice over the hydraulic motor shaft. If that is all good, then they can go ahead and cut the spline profile into the pre-turned flange. You might just weld whatever interface you need onto what is left of the lovejoy coupling. Their problem is that the deck and bracket for the hydraulic motor were never going to stay aligned because everything is too floppy. The bracket should have attached directly to the input shaft end of the gearbox. There are plenty of bolts there to make an attachment. you need 2 locating plates, one on each end with locating features and a bit of pipe in between to hold the plates parallel. With that you have a good chance the lovejoy coupler may be just fine since everything will be very stiff.
You have the splines. For that matter you have the females too. Toss them into a lathe and get the ends cleaned off and neatly rounded and get the engineer to weld them onto any double Cardan Joint you can find of a suitable size. Then unbolt the bracket for the hydraulic motor on the mower and connect the parts in line with the motor, still on that "L" bracket. Get it in line with a straight edge and redrill the mounting holes. You might need some material to reinforce the mower deck under that mount. OR you may be able to simply bolt it on reversed giving you approx. 4" extra space. Of course you have by now fixed it or sold the piece of equipment?
*@**1:40* Install studs with Blue Loctite, then use wingnuts for ease in the field. Make two, 1/4" plates, one each side of cover. Drill a hole at each end to accept 2 studs. Bands will secure cover down easily, just 2 wingnuts each side.
Hey Matt, enjoy the videos. I’ve bought a lot of parts from a tractor supply place in Louisiana by the name of Stevens Tractor. They have a slip clutch that has male and female splined connector on opposite ends. I’ve also bought PTO bushings from them. Not sure if they are beefy enough for this cutter but worth a look.
Yep.....Had this same issue years ago and solved it with a slip clutch. Go to your "local" bearing/drive component supply house and get the Love Joy coupler that has 1/2 with the correct spline. Take all the parts to your local machine shop and get them slip coupler turned down on the side that has the U joint connection. This same shop can then weld in the 1/2 part from the Love Joy to the slip clutch. This sounds like a lot, but after you spend the money and time to replace this several times, you have more than paid for the custom part. In may case I got lucky and could but only the 1/2 of the Love Joy that I needed. Hope this helps. Love the channel!!
I recommend taking the two halves you already have to your machine shop to have the two surfaces that face each other machined flat and true. Then weld identical chain sprockets to both pieces so a double wide chain ring encircling both sprockets ties them together. This solves the problem of finding that one odd spline. 😎👍
I know I'm late to the game, but if you ever need to replace that coupler, consider a rubber tire coupler. Heavy hollow donut bolted to the coupler on either shift. Does double duty by being a shock absorber as well as a flex joint so the 2 shafts don't need to be perfectly aligned. We had a big-ass one on a 10', 3 blade rotary cutter we used for chopping cotton stalks after picking and prior to plowing. Worked great and we only replaced one donut in the 20 plus years we used it and that was due more from AZ desert heat and trash wearing on it than anything else.
Weld gussets on the hydraulic motor support plate. So that it can’t flex or bend backwards under load. The stout gearbox won’t move but that weak sauce motor mount will flex away from thrust.
I believe he was saying that the part of the deck was flexing underneath the mounting bracket. Reinforcing the mount wouldn't be a bad idea though. When he was talking about adding a bracket to the two pieces of framing, I'm sure he was trying to take the torque from the motor and transfer it into the frame rails.
John Smith . Very good suggestion ,that support plate doesn't look anywhere near rigid enough . welding gussets on is easy and cheap fix.
I would mill the ears off the old slip clutch and weld the odd splined coupler to it..
@@Batteer thats the plan
@@DieselCreek try one travel speed less then balls to the walls
Every time I watch you, I'm amazed on how much knowledge you have. Crazy!
On the brush cutter I built I just used a 1/2" through-bolt to attach a chain coupler to the gearbox shaft and that has always worked fine. Your problem isn't shock loads it's shaft misalignment. The pressure relief valve and many feet of hydraulic line in the machine are more than enough to absorb and dissipate the small pressure spikes caused by hitting solid objects. However, as you noted the shafts are allowed to flex away from each other under load which grinds away at the rubber insert and then at the soft metal of the chinese jaw coupler (hence the heat). I would reinforce the motor mount like you said then find a way to attach a chain coupler to each shaft and you should be set. No matter how you attach it the chain coupler will be way better than the jaw coupler.
I agree on that !
It looks like an Eaton 2K motor and should have a standard output shaft. There should be a tag on the tail off the motor with the part number, you can use that to find out exactly which that option that motor has. I would also consider installing a cross port relief valve, that should give your over torque protection. As others have pointed out, check with major hydraulics suppliers for coupling options.
I built my own from scratch. I works great, just used a regular U-joint from a bush hog for my connection between the motor and the gear box. Several years and it is still going.
right after I wrote that, you talked about using a u-joint. Great minds think alike.
The image quality on phones has come a long way it looks better then some cameras that are preety new
Wasn't bothered about your camera phone - found the story, / content interesting. 🇬🇧 🏴 😂
You guys over there must see our vehicles, trailers and equipment here in America and laugh
@@MustObeyTheRules no, getting old now but in the 90s was in the States 3 plus x a year on business from upstate New York to the Florida Keys, along the Louisiana coast to Houston and up in Utah and Arizona, driving is so easy, apart from New Jersey Turnpike. Always found people to be friendly, just not as well travelled as Europeans. Love this channel and the Doc's.
Get some heavy walled pipe that fits inside of itself weld the pipes onto the coupler ends and pin the two pipes together with a shear bolt. The bolt will break before anything else will
I use chain coupler on a 2 hp feeder for poultry low speed operating and would shatter before it slipped the chain is pinned tight. It would make up for misalignment some but I do not think it would tolerate the torque and shock in your application. Keep the vidjas coming.
For your spline sizing it's measured over the largest diameter of the spline.
There are also "permanent fit" and "slide fit" which have different internal diameters. Permanent fit have a larger internal diameter than slide fit, ie the depth of the tooth to the spline is shallower on a permanent fit.
For a nom 1" 6 spline, the OD range is 0.999" and 1.000" and ID range for permanent is 0.899" and 0.900" and to slide no load is 0.849" to 0.850" and to slide under load is 0.799" to 0.800".
Your comments about the movement of the hydraulic drive motor is of concern. If you think about the loading, and what happens with an impact such as when you hit something, the motor will move (attempt to rotate) in one direction but the gearbox in the opposite, but you cannot see that under the cover. That could indicate there it's flex in the deck or the bracket that is holding the hydraulic drive motor, so your suggestion of stiffening that up has merit. Even putting triangular plates into the L each side would strengthen that mounting plate.
Also having the two shafts as accurately aligned as possible will certainly extend any couplings life, and use of a slip clutch will help with impact loading.
Hope that has been of help.
indeed it did! thanks!!
@@DieselCreek someone also commented a 6B spline, that is a 6 tooth spline and it's the slide fit no load.
You hand held video makes it very relatable.
realign it, cut the ends off clean, weld on some flat steel onto both sides, give it two bolts as sheer pins , done, and you got a failure point thats less than 50 cents to replace or : weld the motor side of the old coupler onto the safety clutch you have and install it , realign the motor and reinforce the motor mount , alsso you might want to brace the rear of the motor, like with a sheet metall snair and a second bracket
Rag joint style.
Problem with the two - bolt idea is it will tend to pull the motor and box together as torque is increased. (unless the two plates are flush with each other... but then there's no longer any tolerance of misalignment.
Rather machine a round into the ears of the yolk and weld-in the old lovejoy motor-end splined bush. Yes... Totally agree with idea of bracketing the rear of the hydra motor as this will rectify the torque reaction problem and be an easier solution to prevent misalignment at the coupling than a cross member.
@@jimmycricket5366 well we did the bolt idea for our mulchmower , we put a 3mm ruber sheet between witch cussions possible misalignment ofc this also gets shredded if you shear the bolts off. maschining the bracket flush and reccessing the friction clutch plate after cutting off the ears thenaligning and welding it on is just the very best option there is
Yeah ! Right ! Something's !! Gotta !! BREAK !! With That ! ZANY .!! IDEA !!
Maybe Walterschied might have what your after they specialize in drive lines for agricultural machinery and have a huge selection of yokes and stuff so it might be a good idea to look at them or Weasler which is another agricultural drive linecompany
The JCT website lists that as a parker motor. The spline could be a 1" SAE 6B spline. I think the next weak link will be the gearbox. I'd figure out a coupling that would "give" The joy type was probably used for this reason. The clutch-type would be a lot of mass I would think about more support/mounts/ bearings if going that route. Straightening up the alignment would help.
If it has a 1/4-20 UNC-2B threaded hole in the end of the shaft then it's almost certainly SAE-6B.
I don't know about the Parker, but maybe you can replace just the output shaft for something else that's easier to get a coupler
@@bruceadler-9410 Unfortunately the motor doesn't say parker on it anywhere lol
I have nothing to do with farming, agriculture or heavy industry and live in a city of London. Your channel has completely captivated me, wow nothing in common and very much enjoyable watch nearly through all your videos.
Look at tractor supply company tsc . I got a 6 spline and weld a spocket to both sides and made a chain coupler for my dozer for hydraulic pump no issues 👍👍
Thomas Marion, Difference is that coupling you made up doesn't have to withstand shock loads like this application has to .
Matt I think that you have the solution right there with the slip clutch idea that you proposed at the end of the video. If you brought this into my fab shop I would repair it exactly the same as your idea. I really like your videos and ones like this in particular were you work with everyone to solve a problem and come up with a creative solution ...awesome video looking forward to seeing the next one. Take care and keep the dirt flying best wishes from Iowa
Great video Matt, quality of vid was fine, looking forward to next instalment..
You’ve done a good job of convincing me to not buy a cheap brush cutter. Those blades or the whole hub could come back, ricochet off the ground and come into the cab. This is my next attachment and I’m going to save my money and get what I pay for. Thanks for the education!
That slip clutch is far too heavy for your application. Its mass will destroy the bearings in your pump and gearbox, and the inertia of the driven half is likely to destroy the gearbox if you hit an obstacle with the blade.
Your other suggestions are good but if you can't find what you need, you could repurpose a rubber donut out of a small toyota rear wheel drive car's driveshaft. Cut both ends off the toyota's driveshaft. Cut the splines off your existing coupling halfs and weld them together.
Mercedes also have a similar flex coupling for their driveshafts. That may work. Details here: www.mercedesmedic.com/mercedes-flex-disc-problems-symptoms-cost/
Nope
Isn't that slip clutch off a bush hog? So the gear box should be OK
That slip clutch would be fine if it was cleaned up and refurbished a bit. You tension the springs to the application. The gear box is slinging about 60-70 pounds of blades, adding a couple of pounds of close rotating steel plates won't bother it a bit. The motor would probably be more impacted by the weight and I'd have more concern for on the output shaft bearing, but if that fails, he can replace it with a better bearing or a much more 'suited to the task' motor and I feel that is the weak point of the entire design. That motor looks pretty small to be doing the workload it is, and with the heat he is claiming, if that's from the motor, it's just too small to survive for years and years in that role.
If I were in this position and I had the money, I'd take this opportunity to upgrade the motor now, put the right clutch on it with a larger PTO-sized/splined output shaft hydraulic motor and a beefier mounting plate, even pushing it back on the mount panel more. I'd give myself some alignment room on the new mount as well.
The Slip clutch will work just fine, its weight is being supported by both the gear box and the motor, and with the spring tension being backed off just a bit, it will give before any damage occurs. and it should last forever :).
Bolt on the slip clutch. Counter bore the yoke for the other side of uni joint to the od of the existing lovejoy coupler for a tight press fit. Press it in and lock it with a few grub bolts. Reposition the motor further back for longer coupling then brace that sucker real well. Slip will provide protection and uni will take up minor misalignment. Any tractor shop or driveline rebuilder can do the very basic machining.
Just a shot in the dark:
Take your new(used)slip clutch, mill off the u joint holder, weld on your old coupler to the new(used) slip clutch.
T'was of the same mind so it must be a great idea lol
I'll third that suggestion! :) Or, maybe better, package them up and send them off to Abom79, he'll make it look like something that came out of a factory...
Good luck centering it. If you dont the whole thing would shake apart
Yea, I agree, slip clutch, mill and weld coulper.
@@GrowWithFin machine shop could do this easy.
To me it appears we have two issues. #1 is a coupler, and #2 is alignment of a coupler between the motor and the gearbox. Unless I'm missing something, it appears the respective splines fit their respective shaft ends. Why can't you simply (A) put each spline end on your lathe and face the separate spline end segments to provide mating faces. Then true and weld the two freshly faced ends together. Obviously you need to ensure straight alignment, but you don't have to worry about spline alignment since the motor and gearbox can turn and align independently on the fabricated new coupler. Now for (B), you will have to loosen all the fastening bolts on the motor and gearbox then align the motor and gearbox using the new coupler (eliminating angles). Once aligned, you will need to fabricate, in either heavy angle iron or square stock (as you described), new support brackets. Also, you will have to deal with any tolerance gaps between the old mounting holes and the need to widen them or create new ones.
I hear "AvEism`s" and I appreciate it !
Uncle BUMMBLE !! SEA !! BOAT !! BEHIND !!
For people like me with zero experience with this equipment, this is pretty interesting. Keep up the good work.
#DieselCreek i agree with wut others have said. remove the yoke on the other coupler and attach one of the broken love joint coupler halfs where the yoke was
In the refinery, we had thousands of couplings on high horsepower equipment. We standardized on Falk Steelflex couplings. As with any coupling, they cannot withstand much misalignment. We used dual reverse indicator alignment techniques. Your pedestal and base are too flexible to achieve and maintain precision alignment.
I'm late to the party. There's no reason for that motor to be where it's at. Move it backwards towards the supports. That'll help with the flexing. Then you'll have space to fit your slip clutch in there. Weather or not you've gotta use the knuckled fitting
That bush hog is basically a PTO driven design with a hydraulic motor attached, so the correct coupling is indeed a spring slip clutch. Most replies here have suggested just welding the broken coupling onto the other side of the clutch, and that will work, but you are still stuck with alignment issues as the spring clutch is not meant for that, and if you have any significant misalignment, you will eventually destroy the clutch. Instead, that's what the U joint from the PTO drive shaft would have been for.. My suggestion: if you have enough clearance, you can reverse that motor bracket on the deck and move the motor back towards the rear, thus giving you room for an actual U joint. Then just get a machine shop to weld together the broken motor coupler and a couple of straps for a U-joint.
That slip clutch looks exactly like the smaller one on my Gravely 30 inch bush-hog. They work very well.
Right you are.
Cane across this today. Got called over to a buddy's property and found this exact issue. Found the big coupler fits on a old Ford PTO, but the smaller one is a misnomer. Have a older slip clutch that looks exactly like the one you found with a yoke on it. Was thinking about cutting off the yoke flanges and just welding the smaller coupling directly to it. May have to drill 4 more holes to move the hydraulic pump to correct position, but that's the easy part of the job.
Vice Grip Garage would just "do the right thing" and weld those two pieces together.
Thats what I was thinking, either weld them together or into a slip clutch
That would be factory.
That'll be...fine
I read that in his voice lol
@@DieselCreek
Christopher C.
1 day ago (edited)
Forget using U joint coupling for this application, they won't last very long , trust me I have tried using that prop shaft with U joints system , it only works if there is some sort of cushioning in the drive line . like going through a clutch device on that old unit you have, the best type is a tire type . stromag periflex shaft couplers , they are bloody expensive but you might find another make that are more wallet friendly, best of luck .
After reinforcing that drive unit, put a sleeve over both splines. Weld the motor end, Fasten the business end with a shear pin. Simple to fix, no slippage, same principle that snowblower impellers use if they hit a rock.
SHORT DRIVESHAFT WITH A U-JOINT
to much torque you'll be replacing u joint and yoke once a week when you cut more then grass
No complaints about your camera-work, you did pretty good.
I would go with the slip clutch and see how long it lasts keep up the hard work and thanks for the content stay safe and take care
Great option, I agree too. Weld that Chinese spline female to where the Spicer joint normally goes after removing the knuckles? Matt seems to be engineering challenged on these situations otherwise just add the correct half a spicer to it? He knows his way around deisle engines really well.
Honestly, your best bet may be to mill off the u-joint flange on your slip joint and weld on your coupler from your lovejoy. If you were closer to Michigan, I'd tell you to stop by and I'd put it on the lathe and fix you up. It could be beefed up plenty. I've done this exact repair a few times with good results. That lovejoy setup really wasn't the best for a brushhog, especially as undersized as it was. I would definitely reinforce that mount too, probably in both directions.
Good luck brother.
The odd end looks like a 1-1/8" spline like an old 8N Ford tractor came with originally.
Just what I was thinking. I've never run into a 1" 6-spline, but was thinking it's probably a 1 1/8" 6 spline. But being Chinese made, who knows? A 1 1/8" 6-spline yoke or adapter should be fairly easy to find.
Based on where this shows measurement points, I'm fairly sure that's a 1 1/8" 6-spline
paulbparts dot com/product/weasler-pto-implement-yoke-domestic-14-series-1-1-8-6-spline-bore/
love the shot of the road in the woods . looking good. i know you are so proud
Why not use the 1 love joy spline coupler from the hydraulic side, and weld it to the old tractor clutch coupler? Just remove the u-joint ears...
Add a C-channel for reinforcement. Relocate the motor and use v-belts. This would be and easy way to deal with the misalignment, and a spring-loaded tensioner will help isolate the shock loads.
There's probably a reason they used that crappy coupler.
That's all they could find to make it work.
Yea the Chinese were thinking " so how can I make a $2000 brush mower with $500 of material"and this is what you get lol
Yep. A coupler for US style gearbox and Chinese pump. Bastardizing. I hope he can find such an item.
@@robj2704 Kinda surprised that McMaster doesn't have one.
@@robj2704 he can get the pump machined, or just buy a new pump for it, agrisupply sells an 11.5hp replacement hydro motor that works for most big brand cutters, He could spend the $179 and get it over with!
Talk to a marine technician about how to align shafts. Reinforce your motor mount & then shim the pump to exact alignment with feeler gauges or calipers. Use a fabric coupler, (like an auto steering shaft) & you've got impact, alignment, and shear taken care of.
take 2 slip clutches apart and use only the spline sections and put them together that should solve your problem
Can confirm this works done it on old combines before.
Won’t work due to two different size spline connectors.
@@charlesmurphy1510 you can get same size clutch with different splines
You have quite a conundrum there, but you are at the point to where you need to decide to fix it correctly, abandon it, or sell it. As you know the love-joy is mostly to help forgive misalignment, not real great at absorbing huge shocks over and over. When using this cutter in heavy stuff you are going to have to have some type of slip clutch or shear pins-bolts unless you feel like doing time consuming repairs each time you hit something unforgiving. The slip clutch is easiest, It is made from cast though and welding and modifying options are limited unless you find a double splined one. The spline shafts and bearings will need to be able to support the weight of a slip clutch. Some one also mentioned getting a spline coupler for each spline and welding a circular plate to each one and putting a couple of shear bolts in and mating them up that way. That is a really good idea also and simple and inexpensive to replace shear bolts each time. You may could also pull the Hyd motor spline and replace it with a spline to match your gearbox. Hope you find a solution and I am sure I have not told you anything you did not already know or think of and the video quality was fine!
Why not rotate the hydraulic motor and right-angle drive such that the shafts are parallel, and rig up two sheaves and a belt drive?
You've got a lot of slack in the hydraulic hoses, and the gear box looks to be on a 4 hole pitch circle... you could even weld the L-bracket for the hydraulic motor if drilling & tapping new mounting holes in the deck is problematic.
Alignment is till an issue, but eating belts is a lot cheaper than Lovejoy couplers should things go wrong, and you have shear protection from overloads.
If you want to get fancy, use a timing belt and pulleys...
Good idea.
Hello; First thing I would do is Put a plate on the underside. Clean the area very well and then weld your plate to that overlapping the frame at least on 2 opposing sides. Then I would remove the hydraulic motor bracket turn it around so that the upright is toward the cab using the same mounting holes. Now your motor/deck won't flex and you have more room for your coupler. By the way if you would "button-hole" the deck it would give you areas to weld the plate from above. If you choose to leave your bracket as it is I still would use the plate underneath as this will not affect the height of the motor. In order to find a coupler I would look on E-bay mentioning the the spline sizes. If not there I would contact a Good machine shop. I don't remember the brand but there was coupler that used something like a small rubber tire adhered to flanges etc.. Good luck and sometimes it's cheaper and faster just to make it (or have it made for you) yourself.
Making a slip clutch might be your best option as long as that clutch housing is cast steel and not iron.
Good vids man , wouldn't have noticed that you were using your phone :) cheers for spending the time to make the videos , also like the fact that you don't pretend to know everything
I was wondering could you modify a couple of yoke from a small rear wheel drive and a Universal joint. Just a thought you might be able to find them at a pull apart. I hope that this helps. Have You check with Grainger Might be able to help Or modern welding Might be able to rebuild the ends.
I’d say the best bet would to put the slip clutch unit on the gearbox side. My ancient Hardee bush hog has just such a unit hanging on it’s input shaft, that thing is still running after 45 years or better. Adapt a u-joint to the hydro motor, move it back far enough to put a short driveshaft between them. I guess your biggest issue is the coupling flange with the unknown spline. Could you weld a u-joint hub to the existing one? The u-joint drive would tolerate the shaft misalignment, the slip clutch would protect the hydro motor. Little bit of fab work, but seems better than the other options mentioned.
I’ll say what I would do...don’t take it the wrong way, but alignment is critical on that unit, what ever coupler you use it will last longer and not destroy the hydraulic motor or transmission in the future.
The navy had an entire 2 week class on using the MAC (mini alignment computer) to teach people how to align motors and pumps...it was a fancy dial indicator. A chain type coupling is way to rigid in my view for a brush hog, I’d stick to a slip clutch or rubber coupling to take the shock force from hitting rocks and large tree stumps.
kasinchain.en.made-in-china.com/product/VsamzXhvfBcW/China-FCL-Quick-Coupling-Type-280-Flexible-Rubber-Flange-Shaft-Couplings-Bolt-PB280-.html
A coupling like that will allow some “slop” in alignment and still give you the ability to absorb shock loads, I just using that link as a reference, it’s probably made from old pop cans melted by a torch...
My high school buddy P.O. Gary Rinsem invented that alignment tool for the Navy when he served on the Praire AD-15. I've seen the commendation he recieved for it.
MedusalObligation I might have been trained on his technique! AD15 was an old ship, served a long time. I hated that Mini Alignment computer, and old chief taught me how to use a dial indicator with a magnetic stand and 6” machinist rule.
If your buddy is the guy who invented the Mini Alignment Computer, I don’t mean to disrespect him, it was great at telling you exactly where your soft foot was and exactly what shims were needed to have near perfect alignment, I just wasn’t smart enough to remember what inputs were needed to be entered into it to get the correct results. I was better with my Skillcraft US Government pen and my wheel book, and making a drawing. The one thing I always did, don’t think I invented it, because I’d seen it a lot when years later I served as a Boiler Inspector at SURFLANT, but once I had my alignment down, I’d stamp the shin thickness in the feet, and drill and install a rigid dowl pin. A lot of people did that, so they reached the same conclusion.
@@Unclejake Gary invented the 2 dial indicator fixture and clamp and developed a graph that showed the misalignment in thousands of an inch and polar coordinate. You clamped it own the two shafts and rotated it. Made note of readings every 45degrees and used the chart. easy peasy. (he hated the computer)
MedusalObligation I remember that, the diesel guys (Enginemen) had a rig like that to align engines to generators (a lot more critical) and to check alignments when the ship was moved in and out of the water (drydocking). That’s awesome! I won the 1984 Energy Conservation award for coming up with a way to use the installed equipment already on the ship and burning waste oil, it wasn’t so much that the idea was new...I just documented the heck out of what I did and submitted it, really it’s because my CO was a Captain Bligh. John Lehman (Secretary of the Navy) came to ship and awarded it too me, the command gave me a Navy Achievement medal with my name spelled wrong, and even pronounced it wrong at the ceremony...that was the best part.
I was dealing with the same problem on my old Roscoe roller that I repowered with a Briggs & Stratton. Lovejoy couplers broke. Those chain and sprocket couplers work great.
Especially if you don't have shit lined up exactly perfect.
👍
The blade gear box is a 540 pto spline
Since the hydraulic motor is just bolted to the deck, you can move it back toward the skid loader if you need more room for a bigger, better coupler -- just drill new mounting holes. Also, to make the motor more rigid on the deck, you only really need to put a gusset on the side of the mount that it torques toward, unless the deck is really flexing in both directions, rather than the mount. Then your angle plate idea is a good one. Since the hydraulic motor comes from the PRC, it might be metric, in which case it would probably be 25mm, if your 1" measurement is close. Oops, that's what I get for commenting before the end of the video!
Yeah, beef up that motor bracket. Looks like the weak point.
You could use the slip clutch if you take your hydraulic motor bracket and turn it 180 degrees. That will give you more space and allow a u-joint on a short shaft to the motor.
just do what you said weld that coupler on to that clutch thing you have and be done with it easy peasy
Exactly what I was thinking
I’ll piggy back on this comment
First thing I thought of
Make that five in agreement but I would make a saddle type mount for that hydraulic pump to set down on and strap it across the top for support in lieu of building support just on the front
Bad Monkey, Cheapest solution without a doubt.
Great feedback an all this drives. Makes perfect sense
....GOOD ONE, STAY SAFE..
Do what most farmers do, put a shear bolt in that lashup. Buy a bag of shear bolts and when one breaks just replace it. It's cheap, works and saves the expensive parts on either side of that coupling.
Ask Ave to have a go at making you one! Tappy tap tap..
AvE would probably laugh at his face and tell him to buy his patreon 😂😤
being a welder I would combine the broken spider gear coupler with the clutch piece, cut off the Ujoint yoke, set up both sides on the brush cutter for alignment, tack in place, then do the full welds with like 045 duelshield fluxcore in at least 3 stringers, preferable 5 or 6 pass stringer stack like welding heavy equipment.
weld a pair of sprockets on the ends of your old parts.
3:05 - You're a good boy! That comment made my day. Timely too!
Call industrial bearing supply Carrol Iowa Darren or Joel will get you everything you need for a great price!
Small family business they are great
love your sense of humor ,i know way side warning says ' stay waaaaay back'
Check Granger or McMaster Carr. Maybe that brushhog is made for leaves and grass.
Even better for cutting through air...just like a propeller.
If you can get the inline better and square to each other the original lovejoy may still be the best setup you can get. Keep extra spiders around, but once lined up correctly the spiders should last a long time.
I just watched all the videos you posted on this it’s like you filmed my jct to the minute. I have my machine shop making a shear pin slip collar right now for mine. And revamping stump hopper to a larger one with 4’ blades. I can reach out to you with picture and the price my machine shop has it done I’m only about 45 minutes north of you.
Thanks I really appreciate that but I have a buddy that owns a machine shop and he takes care of me on that. I need to get the coupler fixed on mine still
Mill the beat faces of old coupler flat, weld together, use as solid coulpler. Put thick rubber mat under motor mount for shock? Take a motor mount with steel on both sides, weld that to old coupler, fix alignment.
Some radiator hose and a few hose clamps...
not strong enough, not even close
@@frankdeegan8974 I was mostly joking. That thing would need a mountain of torque.
0:11:00 I would also take two flat steel straps, put bolt holes in one end, give it a bend and run them forward from the forward hydro motor flange top to the forward beam of the mower. Combined with the angle iron they'd give a much better control on twist and torsion, can be some pretty cheap steel too. Sadly I think getting a bigger used motor that far exceeds the power need of the cutter would be the solution in the long... direct-drive spindle from something someone bent up maybe? That body looks very well made tbh.
While you have your phone, video was fine BTW, Call ThisOldTony he makes them before breakfast
You asked for it so, I'll give you my two cents. I would take what is left of those couplings, smooth off the damaged faces and weld a piece of keyed round stock on the ends. Then go to McMaster-Carr or similar company and select a coupling that you think will work. I would select a non interference coupler because if it fails only the coupling itself will be damaged. If it fails, you can try a different type next time.
I wouldn’t put a solid yolk in there you wind up tearing something up
P1 1 3/8 6 SPL B is the browning part number they make a 6018 chain coupling use a cover and lube for your dirty application. you will need a half for your straight keyed shaft too I sold Power Transmission items for over 30 years. Both are Good reputable companies.
Have you tried motionindustries.com, stuff like that is what they specialize in. Good Luck
Agreed. Motion Industries.
Isn’t that where Abom79 used to work?
Daniel Coates why yes, I believe it is
Make a flat rubber coupler from some old thick conveyor belt webbing. Weld some 5/16” steel discs with three holes onto your broken coupler hubs. Punch six holes in the circle cut from the belt. Bolt it up using big fender washers. Bet it lasts longer than your old coupler. And definitely align your shafts.
What about getting two used slip clutches and putting the two spline parts together instead of spline and yoke?
I had thought about that but you would have 2 clutch plates together. In plate with the UJ mount is a fixed plate. Unless one can be welded good to the ring plate, it could work, but the spline shafts are different. Great idea though. I bet loads were thinking the same. :)
Mount the motor to the side and reinforce the deck with a plate .Put pulleys on the motor and gear box and run belts.They will slip if you hit something hard. Make a belt guard up.Also weld a hinge on your belt guard so its easy to change belts.
if duct tape and WD40 don't fix something, then it's too difficult for a guy of my meagre abilities - sorry I can't help.
A slip clutch is your best bet, but one that is appropriately sized, No flexible coupling on the market is going to withstand a high torque impact that a rotary cutter can incur. Even though the blades are hinged to take up some of the impacts there are still large torque values transmitted back to the coupling. A belt setup could also be used, but would require additional engineering. Check with some local tractor supply companies, as this is really an agricultural piece of equipment.
Are you sure it's not a 1 1/8" 6 spline on that side instead of a 25mm? could adapt the below link with a couple adapters.
www.agrisupply.com/fd-pto-slip-clutch/p/31951/
I like you point to a video link in the upper corner and then the link actually appears.👍
Most RUclipsrs I watch point to nothing...because they forget to edit the link in afterwards.
Haha ya thay happens a lot don’t worry
Made in China :)
I know for a fact you don't mean to bring funny content to us but you are really funny blowing the leaves into the cab,,,LOLOLOL
I make my own. Yes weld the spline that fits on the motor into the biggest rubber coupler you can find. The out put, use the slip clutch pto spline plate. with bolts in it holding short pieces of large rubber hose that fit into the biggest coupler you can find.
I think your idea of welding the spline on the slip clutch is the soundest one. That way you don't have to search for some unobtanium part that is probably going to fail anyway. That old clutch looks solid.
Try machining the yoke off the clutch coupler, hopefully it’s weld able material! You will probably have to center it up in a lathe and tack weld it! Good luck my friend, I’m a retired welder after 37 years! Hopefully it’s not a bad grade of castiron, maybe it’s cast steel! That would be great and weldable, good luck
@Diesel Creek It looks like its just flat plate with holes for the spring bolts... so with that said get some plate steel and a spline coupler(off the shelf or machined) and weld the two, remount to the slipclutch where the UJ plate was and it should work great with minimal expenditures. If the splines from the chinesium hydrodrive box is steel then thats one less thing you have to buy.
I’m not sure if it’s been said but I have made my own double chain couplers many times. I usually get my parts from Princess Auto up here in Canada. I’m sure Tractor Supply would have some of the needed 6 spline weld on hubs. Get 2 of whatever weld on hubs you need, 2 matching weld on sprockets, And some double roller chain.
yes I know I could make something but in case it brakes again id like to be able to be able to get an off the shelf part
Enjoy your videos you remind me of the things I used to get into years ago when I worked at a little construction company best job I ever had
Seperate the motor mount from the gearbox (move it closer to the cab) and then use a shortened driveshaft with a standard slip clutch assembly at the gearbox which has a std spline. A machine shop with a wire EDM can make a female spline quite easily, they cut the profile in a bit of sheet metal as a fit test and check it fits nice over the hydraulic motor shaft. If that is all good, then they can go ahead and cut the spline profile into the pre-turned flange. You might just weld whatever interface you need onto what is left of the lovejoy coupling.
Their problem is that the deck and bracket for the hydraulic motor were never going to stay aligned because everything is too floppy. The bracket should have attached directly to the input shaft end of the gearbox. There are plenty of bolts there to make an attachment. you need 2 locating plates, one on each end with locating features and a bit of pipe in between to hold the plates parallel. With that you have a good chance the lovejoy coupler may be just fine since everything will be very stiff.
You have the splines. For that matter you have the females too. Toss them into a lathe and get the ends cleaned off and neatly rounded and get the engineer to weld them onto any double Cardan Joint you can find of a suitable size.
Then unbolt the bracket for the hydraulic motor on the mower and connect the parts in line with the motor, still on that "L" bracket. Get it in line with a straight edge and redrill the mounting holes. You might need some material to reinforce the mower deck under that mount. OR you may be able to simply bolt it on reversed giving you approx. 4" extra space.
Of course you have by now fixed it or sold the piece of equipment?
*@**1:40*
Install studs with Blue Loctite, then use wingnuts for ease in the field.
Make two, 1/4" plates, one each side of cover.
Drill a hole at each end to accept 2 studs.
Bands will secure cover down easily, just 2 wingnuts each side.
Hey Matt, enjoy the videos. I’ve bought a lot of parts from a tractor supply place in Louisiana by the name of Stevens Tractor. They have a slip clutch that has male and female splined connector on opposite ends. I’ve also bought PTO bushings from them. Not sure if they are beefy enough for this cutter but worth a look.