New to the whole minibike lifestyle but I have to say I want this bike, exactly everything on here I need lol. Due to my truck needing a major repair (rear axle) and me only taking two streets to get to work and back, 15 miles away. I need this!!! Listening to exactly what you say word-for-word so I can look for the parts.
New to the whole minibike lifestyle but I have to say I want this bike, exactly everything on here I need lol. Due to my truck needing a major repair (rear axle) and me only taking two streets to get to work and back, 15 miles away. I need this!!!
My local track unfortunately banned minibikes going down the track so I'll never be able to do this. But it's videos like this I'm grateful people post because I get to live a life through them a lil bit
I have been looking for the right tire/ wheel combination for my minibike and I think this is it. I'm running a Vanguard Vtwin un a Massimo Baja Warrior MB 200 chassis with a jackshaft setup. 32 tooth rear wheel pocket ges me around 70 mph.
@@SpaceCoastMiniBikes I ended up getting some Yamaha FZR 600 wheels, tires, and brakes that I hope to get installed when the weather cools down a bit. The South Texas sun is killing me right now.
@@SpaceCoastMiniBikes I haven't put them on yet, and probably won't until I'm ready to install the 5speed Honda transmission and wet clutch assembly. I'm figuring with that transmission and the larger roll out of the Yamaha wheels I will probably need to run a rear sprocket somewhere between 46 to 56 tooth which should help with the acceleration. Currently it accelerates from 30 to 60 slightly quicker than a buddy on his 883 Sportster (Stage 1 hi flow K&N Air Cleaner and backing plate, Dynojet Kit, and Vance &Hines 2 into 1 Propipe) in a third gear roll on, we both weigh about 200lbs, his 883 makes about 46hp and weighs around 550lbs fueled up, my minibike making around 25ish HP weighs in around 200 to 220 lbs (me and one other guy my size can easily load it into a stock Z71 with no ramps, just lift and shove it in, I'm 52,, he's 46, were both a bit over 6feet tall, and work is our only working out) so it can't be much over 200, if it was my back injuries would quickly veto such foolishness. So ljust under half the weight and just over half the power should put them roughly equal with the drive ratio breaking the tie. I will say he was not pleased and we will be installing a 1200 cc conversion kit (pistons and heads from a Buell X1 lightning, some Zippers performance cams, a 45mm Mikuni flatslide carb like I used to build when I worked at Alamo City HD as the engine builder and performance specialist which will bump him up close to85 ho at the rear wheel so he can beat a minibike lol. And currently top end is going to be my main goal. I have wanted to run a vehicle at either Bonneville or Murdock Dry Lakes since I was a young hillbilly, and now that I'm an old beat up and budget challenged hillbilly with a lot fewer years ahead of me than behind me I realize it's more important to accomplish the goal of running on the dry lakes on something I built than it is to actually try and impress others or set a record. If I'm 50% slower, fine, I still did something that most people never get to do, run my creation at a world famous location during a world famous event, and live a fraction of what some real legends lived before me. And I know exactly one thing for certain about trying to ride across a dry lake bed at speeds common sense would tell a normal person to stop with the stupid shit, hard acceleration is the fastest way to fall down and watch your bike transform into the 3D version of a parts catalog exploded view. When I've achieved a couple passes and hopefully returned home in roughly the same condition I left in I will possibly disassemble this project to use parts of it on my next build, a 1920s era replica/tribute board track racing bike with just enough civilization built into it so that I can ride it 15 miles to a buddy's house and back at 70 mph cruising speed. I'm looking for just the right older ( 60s or 70s) beach cruiser style bicycle frame as a starting point and will go from there. There are a few, or a bunch of RUclips channels that have already done similar builds but having actually worked on some real board track race bikes (my favorite was a 1916 Indian overhead 8 valve Vtwin that I helped restore ) may give me an insight into creating something a bit more authentic than some who built some really cool tribute bikes that to me missed the mark a little. A little too refined in some cases, a little too "Rat Rod" and not vintage race bike in other cases. Not trying to throw shade on anyone whose actually building stuff, I just interpret the concept differently and maybe that will lead to an interesting series on my RUclips channel or maybe an epic fail with me trying to stomp out a grassfire after a spectacular dismount and landing in a cow pasture. Time will tell, hopefully it won't be telling the police lol.
I have some more videos to come...I was just there a couple weeks ago, brake line came loose and fell on the header so that was the end of the evening, but were all fixed and ready to head back
@@xscoops1 woohoo! From where I’m from mini bikes are popular and near me they do 330 foot drag racing. So I built a powerful 212. Hoping to get out there this season. I broke a valve spring last time out lucky I didn’t drop a valve. I’m running a 308 cam in a hemi with the .020 longer rod. So piston to valve clearance is tight. I had a problem with coil bind too with the shallow valve spring pockets on the hemi. So I bought longer valves that helped. I measured it and it seemed good but idk maybe cheap valve springs. The hemi heads I personally think flow better but im thinking of switching to the none hemi. Run bigger valves… more compression… but I can’t wait to see more vids from ya!
@3generation_racing658 I had done a similar build on a hemi 212, found the path of least resistance is to swap to a 14cc non-hemi head...36lb springs and ratio rockers...just make sure you have the right carb and jetting for it ; )
@@xscoops1compression is everything! Just like my 1:1 drag race car stuff I'm a huge fan of big compression for performance! The hemi head leads to clearance problems piston to valve on the 212, but there are ways around that. I'm happy to hear that you are continuing to build and test. I do not doubt bigger CC's equal more performance when done right in the end. We need to see some more vids, because this is a fine looking mini! Have you done wheelie bars yet? I been messing around with them for a few years now and I have determined that they work best, at least as a starting point, if the distance from rear axle to wheelie bar axle is same as the wheelbase of the bike. It's about 36" but varies obviously. This setup makes the rear wheel axle kind of the fulcrum for pivot and keeps you going straight. I've tried both single and dual wheel drag wheelie bars and their is advantages to each. The single let's you ride it out like it wants. If you got a lot of power a dual wheel wheelie bar can help settle things down and keep it pointed straight. I got more testing to do, but for mini's I'm thinking working front fork travel and maybe a cushioned rear wheelie bar arrangement is tuneable and make for the most consistent and quickest passes. Got off track yapping, but would love to see some more vids. Get with me if you wanna know more about my wheelie bar tests. I don't have vids on any of it, I'm too old to make vids. Maybe that will change soon we will see I guess.
Appreciate it! It's coming along. I haven't been able to get back to the track since I burned through my brake line, but all repaired just need the time
Do a build with the kholer 747cc 25hp efi engine! Just seen them at work coming in by the tons recently work for a shipping company perfect for a mini bike build bet it would be legit with a tune and injector and intake and pipe 25hp stock Is nuts! Surprisingly around the same size as the 420
Noticing what track you're at, I'm fairly certain I picked up some parts from you awhile back. Didn't expect to stumble upon a YT channel of someone local.
@@Hashcommander I've always been treated well...one time the guy working tech gave me a hard time but still passed me and I had a good time. Track is always great though
Looks like fun. I have mini bikes but do not race. If I wanted to drag race I would get my engine to someone with a dyno. This way I could gear for where max power is because max RPM doesn't always mean maximum power. I think the gearing change you mentioned is a good idea. Also. Would have liked to ask questions and comment about your Baja bike but the comments were turned off.
@@xscoops1 I was wondering if you ran the bike on the road with the stock TAV driver and if you liked the Juggernaut better for road riding or not. I've heard of guys taking the Juggernaut off because it was too much RPM for the type of road riding they were doing.
I had ridden with the srock pulley and the juggernaut is much much better, the juggernaut is not limited by the low rpms that the stock pulley is. You will continue to speed up with the increase in engine rpms
Hello, I was thinking about doing the same build. Is changing the front wheel a necessity? I was thinking about using a two stroke kt100 Yamaha engine. Do you think you could share with me a build list?
You don't have to change the front wheel...the stock one is just very heavy and doesn't turn well. This bike is fairly heavy so I'm not sure the KT100 is going to be a good option...I would imagine you'll be wrapping the motor out and burning up clutches just to get it going...it's also why they put torque converters on when you get them new. Good luck on your build!
@ziokidd408 I would look for a 250 2T or maybe a smaller snowmobile 2T if you don't want to go 4T. If you do a 250 dirt bike or quad motor, it will already have the clutch and gearbox so you won't have to think about that part. Just align the sprockets with the right chain and go
Oh hell yeah dude! Im building the first really stretched bt200x ever and im using a modded 301! I plan on using a kawasaki z125 pro front suspension and the same rear tire you have! What state are you in? Id love to race!
Yeah it was definitely sputtering. I swapped jets and adjusted the needle position so I think my next time out it'll be better. I haven't posted yet, but the one run I got a couple weeks ago was a full 6 mph faster so we're getting better
@@1sinister80 when you say "that took a long time" I had no idea what you were asking was if it was a Coleman style minibike but to be more specific it's a mega moto 212 pro frame, same as a Coleman RB200, so yeah it started out that way yes
@xscoops1 Yeah, that was all I was asking. I didn't recognize the frame. I was thinking it was an old street bike that you converted, but then the run you did was too long to be any geared bike. Then it dawned on me that I didn't hear you shifting. So by then, I pit 2 and 2 together, hence the lawnmower engine comment.
Several seconds that it has run out of gear.the gearing definatly isn't right. You want to run out of gear at the Finnish line or right before the Finnish line.looks like it pulls pretty good till it runs out of gear.the right gearing and a few more hp would lower the et big time.
@@joemontgomery9420 it's more the gearing, motor is still pulling at max speed so now with the new gear ratio I'll have to wait until the weather warms up and test again
Maybe a dumb question, but with the 40 series doesn't either the driver or driven unit need to be mounted "inboard" orientation? I only have "hands on" experience with 30 series and Polaris CVTs, so I'm not telling anyome "how to do their job". For reference: ruclips.net/video/Bh--LbTIdLI/видео.html This is an awesome, well built bike. I really like the way you clearanced the frame behind the driven pulley, that stuck out to me as the best part, aesthetically.
Not a dumb question. What you'll see is that the driver can be ran either way. Typically the driven is either an inboard or outboard setup. The other thing you'll notice between the 30 and 40 series, why the driver and be flipped, is the 40 series belt is symmetrical and the 30 series is asymmetrical. Notice on the 30 there is a taper on one side of the belt that only goes one way. The 40 series belt isn't that way.
If the driven pulley is reversed “outboard” as seen in the video, then you must have a reverse wound spring “yellow spring”. If the driven pulley is in this configuration, the driver pulley should not be “outboard” it should be mounted “inboard” so that the belt stays aligned fully during high rpm’s. This only works on the 40 series comet driver as the 44 series driver can only be mounted one way, but will still use the 40 series driven.
Waiting to get back to the drag strip since changing up the gear ratio...was only getting 52mph before we had maxed our gear ratio. Plus we added a turbo...🤷
You better do some more work on gearing. My 212 predator on a standard doodlebug frame goes 9.50s at 68 in the 1/8. That's almost 3 sec quicker than your 1/8 mile. I've never ran mine thru 1/4 mile but I know it will go 77 top speed. Something ain't right here. Combo sounds great, something seems off
That's why we test. Already changed our gearing, another big difference between yours and this is the weight...frame and motor are probably double or triple yours
@@xscoops1just realized this is from 5 months ago. First I wanna say that I wasn't putting you down and love your answer about testing. Maybe you have a new video out soon with results? Also, I love that front wheel and want one! Where do I get one???
Removing the tank, exhaust, and factory intake were the biggest issues. After that, we cut the frame and made made clearance for the TC. We cut out to factory motor mount plate and jackshaft and welded in a new 1/4" thick steel plate and I added the big block billet adjustable mount to get it all square
@@xscoops1 I’ve seen people on smaller tires go much faster so it’s definitely way over kill unless you are running close to what a junior drag rail car is doing.
@robertspata90 we are competing with JRs. That's kinda the point...the point people are missing is that the speeds were hitting in 660ft and most races are 330ft....minibike people don't get it, it's not about top speed...it's acceleration 100%
@@xscoops1Yes that’s what I mean by fast as in get to the end of the 1/8 as fast as you can. Same for me top speed I could care less about so if I can accelerate as fast as possible and get to the end first is what I care about the most. I have a smaller diameter and probably the same width as your front tire on my rear wheel and cut a 1.9 60ft on the street without prep. I was going to say just get a second front wheel and put it in the back and see how that runs. Now if you start making 3 times the power then you might need that big slick again.
@robertspata90 it's making good power man, that's like the second thing I hear from people...like these small blocks can make a MAX of 30ish HP when they are FULLY built...all billet etc...this motor bone stock is 16hp...now with all billet internals and ratio rockers, built up TC you still think it's under powered? How so? Where's the logic in that? I'm dragging on but the comments I get without any basis is draining for real....not directing my rant at you just catching me as I'm reading through some of these
Its nice to see someone finishing projects.
New to the whole minibike lifestyle but I have to say I want this bike, exactly everything on here I need lol. Due to my truck needing a major repair (rear axle) and me only taking two streets to get to work and back, 15 miles away. I need this!!! Listening to exactly what you say word-for-word so I can look for the parts.
New to the whole minibike lifestyle but I have to say I want this bike, exactly everything on here I need lol. Due to my truck needing a major repair (rear axle) and me only taking two streets to get to work and back, 15 miles away. I need this!!!
My local track unfortunately banned minibikes going down the track so I'll never be able to do this. But it's videos like this I'm grateful people post because I get to live a life through them a lil bit
That'd be a bummer! I will be getting back to the track soon. Now that season is here new videos will be coming
THIS IS SO SICK! Thank you for sharing!
I have been looking for the right tire/ wheel combination for my minibike and I think this is it. I'm running a Vanguard Vtwin un a Massimo Baja Warrior MB 200 chassis with a jackshaft setup. 32 tooth rear wheel pocket ges me around 70 mph.
You can get 80 + easy.
@@SpaceCoastMiniBikes I ended up getting some Yamaha FZR 600 wheels, tires, and brakes that I hope to get installed when the weather cools down a bit. The South Texas sun is killing me right now.
@@SpaceCoastMiniBikes I haven't put them on yet, and probably won't until I'm ready to install the 5speed Honda transmission and wet clutch assembly. I'm figuring with that transmission and the larger roll out of the Yamaha wheels I will probably need to run a rear sprocket somewhere between 46 to 56 tooth which should help with the acceleration. Currently it accelerates from 30 to 60 slightly quicker than a buddy on his 883 Sportster (Stage 1 hi flow K&N Air Cleaner and backing plate, Dynojet Kit, and Vance &Hines 2 into 1 Propipe) in a third gear roll on, we both weigh about 200lbs, his 883 makes about 46hp and weighs around 550lbs fueled up, my minibike making around 25ish HP weighs in around 200 to 220 lbs (me and one other guy my size can easily load it into a stock Z71 with no ramps, just lift and shove it in, I'm 52,, he's 46, were both a bit over 6feet tall, and work is our only working out)
so it can't be much over 200, if it was my back injuries would quickly veto such foolishness. So ljust under half the weight and just over half the power should put them roughly equal with the drive ratio breaking the tie. I will say he was not pleased and we will be installing a 1200 cc conversion kit (pistons and heads from a Buell X1 lightning, some Zippers performance cams, a 45mm Mikuni flatslide carb like I used to build when I worked at Alamo City HD as the engine builder and performance specialist which will bump him up close to85 ho at the rear wheel so he can beat a minibike lol. And currently top end is going to be my main goal. I have wanted to run a vehicle at either Bonneville or Murdock Dry Lakes since I was a young hillbilly, and now that I'm an old beat up and budget challenged hillbilly with a lot fewer years ahead of me than behind me I realize it's more important to accomplish the goal of running on the dry lakes on something I built than it is to actually try and impress others or set a record. If I'm 50% slower, fine, I still did something that most people never get to do, run my creation at a world famous location during a world famous event, and live a fraction of what some real legends lived before me. And I know exactly one thing for certain about trying to ride across a dry lake bed at speeds common sense would tell a normal person to stop with the stupid shit, hard acceleration is the fastest way to fall down and watch your bike transform into the 3D version of a parts catalog exploded view. When I've achieved a couple passes and hopefully returned home in roughly the same condition I left in I will possibly disassemble this project to use parts of it on my next build, a 1920s era replica/tribute board track racing bike with just enough civilization built into it so that I can ride it 15 miles to a buddy's house and back at 70 mph cruising speed. I'm looking for just the right older ( 60s or 70s) beach cruiser style bicycle frame as a starting point and will go from there. There are a few, or a bunch of RUclips channels that have already done similar builds but having actually worked on some real board track race bikes (my favorite was a 1916 Indian overhead 8 valve Vtwin that I helped restore ) may give me an insight into creating something a bit more authentic than some who built some really cool tribute bikes that to me missed the mark a little. A little too refined in some cases, a little too "Rat Rod" and not vintage race bike in other cases. Not trying to throw shade on anyone whose actually building stuff, I just interpret the concept differently and maybe that will lead to an interesting series on my RUclips channel or maybe an epic fail with me trying to stomp out a grassfire after a spectacular dismount and landing in a cow pasture. Time will tell, hopefully it won't be telling the police lol.
This is freaking awesome. Never seen someone take one of these the full quarter! Good stuff!
I have some more videos to come...I was just there a couple weeks ago, brake line came loose and fell on the header so that was the end of the evening, but were all fixed and ready to head back
@@xscoops1 woohoo! From where I’m from mini bikes are popular and near me they do 330 foot drag racing. So I built a powerful 212. Hoping to get out there this season. I broke a valve spring last time out lucky I didn’t drop a valve. I’m running a 308 cam in a hemi with the .020 longer rod. So piston to valve clearance is tight. I had a problem with coil bind too with the shallow valve spring pockets on the hemi. So I bought longer valves that helped. I measured it and it seemed good but idk maybe cheap valve springs. The hemi heads I personally think flow better but im thinking of switching to the none hemi. Run bigger valves… more compression… but I can’t wait to see more vids from ya!
@3generation_racing658 I had done a similar build on a hemi 212, found the path of least resistance is to swap to a 14cc non-hemi head...36lb springs and ratio rockers...just make sure you have the right carb and jetting for it ; )
@@xscoops1compression is everything! Just like my 1:1 drag race car stuff I'm a huge fan of big compression for performance! The hemi head leads to clearance problems piston to valve on the 212, but there are ways around that. I'm happy to hear that you are continuing to build and test. I do not doubt bigger CC's equal more performance when done right in the end. We need to see some more vids, because this is a fine looking mini!
Have you done wheelie bars yet? I been messing around with them for a few years now and I have determined that they work best, at least as a starting point, if the distance from rear axle to wheelie bar axle is same as the wheelbase of the bike. It's about 36" but varies obviously. This setup makes the rear wheel axle kind of the fulcrum for pivot and keeps you going straight. I've tried both single and dual wheel drag wheelie bars and their is advantages to each. The single let's you ride it out like it wants. If you got a lot of power a dual wheel wheelie bar can help settle things down and keep it pointed straight.
I got more testing to do, but for mini's I'm thinking working front fork travel and maybe a cushioned rear wheelie bar arrangement is tuneable and make for the most consistent and quickest passes.
Got off track yapping, but would love to see some more vids. Get with me if you wanna know more about my wheelie bar tests. I don't have vids on any of it, I'm too old to make vids. Maybe that will change soon we will see I guess.
Excellent build thanks for sharing! ✌
Pretty cool build ive thought about building a big block drag bike
Appreciate it! It's coming along. I haven't been able to get back to the track since I burned through my brake line, but all repaired just need the time
@@xscoops1 I'm going to build a drag bike over the winter
The first gen duromax had that weird exhaust port.
Dude your a blessing thanks for the info
I appreciate the love. Should have another video coming soon
Didn't expect to hear that flatspot right after you launched, probably vht doing you dirty but sweet bike
That's why we test, carb needs some adjusting
Use a premier titan clutch torque converter is for uphill
That looks properly engineered.
Do a build with the kholer 747cc 25hp efi engine! Just seen them at work coming in by the tons recently work for a shipping company perfect for a mini bike build bet it would be legit with a tune and injector and intake and pipe 25hp stock
Is nuts! Surprisingly around the same size as the 420
A small vtwin like that is on the list. Performance parts and all!
@@xscoops1 sweet I’m subbed in for the build bro 😎🤘!
Sweet build sound nasty 😮😮😮
Appreciate the love!
Noticing what track you're at, I'm fairly certain I picked up some parts from you awhile back. Didn't expect to stumble upon a YT channel of someone local.
That's awesome! I haven't been great getting videos put together but working on it
@@xscoops1 Man, I feel that. How friendly is Edgewater toward minis? Working on a 212 build and would like to see some numbers eventually
@@Hashcommander I've always been treated well...one time the guy working tech gave me a hard time but still passed me and I had a good time. Track is always great though
@@xscoops1 If we ever run into one another, I'd be down to do a run; this big block vs my small block.
@Hobbies With Hash heck ya, I'm down. I usually try to go on test and tune nights, but have to finish work I started so she's back up and running
Very nice project mini drag bike….. how fast is she?
Tops so far has been 58mph but it's not reached its limit yet
Looks like fun. I have mini bikes but do not race. If I wanted to drag race I would get my engine to someone with a dyno. This way I could gear for where max power is because max RPM doesn't always mean maximum power. I think the gearing change you mentioned is a good idea.
Also. Would have liked to ask questions and comment about your Baja bike but the comments were turned off.
Yeah sorry about that I never turned comments off so I'll look at that. What questions did you have?
@@xscoops1 I was wondering if you ran the bike on the road with the stock TAV driver and if you liked the Juggernaut better for road riding or not.
I've heard of guys taking the Juggernaut off because it was too much RPM for the type of road riding they were doing.
I had ridden with the srock pulley and the juggernaut is much much better, the juggernaut is not limited by the low rpms that the stock pulley is. You will continue to speed up with the increase in engine rpms
Have you tightened up the spring in the driven clutch yet? It helped mine out tremendously!
I did but I need to double check what setting I had it at. I believe it was the tightest setting
Nice ride 👌
🤟
Real question, what is the catch can used for like I know it catches oil but why vent the valve covers?
@mikeduarte8635 relieves pressure build up from the crankcase
@@xscoops1 thanks for the answers
❤ Buck Potter RUclips Love the bike😊
Thank you!
No problem bro
Hey Shane would it be too much to list everything on this bike? I tried to take notes word-for-word but couldn’t keep up lol
Yeah probably easiest to send me your email and I can email a build sheet to you
This bike is sick where are all the comments
Appreciate it!
Hello, I was thinking about doing the same build. Is changing the front wheel a necessity? I was thinking about using a two stroke kt100 Yamaha engine. Do you think you could share with me a build list?
You don't have to change the front wheel...the stock one is just very heavy and doesn't turn well. This bike is fairly heavy so I'm not sure the KT100 is going to be a good option...I would imagine you'll be wrapping the motor out and burning up clutches just to get it going...it's also why they put torque converters on when you get them new. Good luck on your build!
@@xscoops1 thanks, I wasn’t really thinking about the weight. I don’t want to use a 4 stroke engine. Any ideas?
@ziokidd408 I would look for a 250 2T or maybe a smaller snowmobile 2T if you don't want to go 4T. If you do a 250 dirt bike or quad motor, it will already have the clutch and gearbox so you won't have to think about that part. Just align the sprockets with the right chain and go
@@xscoops1 ima do that and keep you updated
Oh hell yeah dude! Im building the first really stretched bt200x ever and im using a modded 301! I plan on using a kawasaki z125 pro front suspension and the same rear tire you have! What state are you in? Id love to race!
I'm in Kentucky closer to Cincinnati, OH
dam only 52 mph my lil motovox i got 58
It's not the power it's the gearing, we'll see some times next season, snowing here now ☹️
@@xscoops1 HELL YEA WE JUST GOT A MEAN COLD DRIFT JUST YESTERDAY IT WAS NICE ASF LIKE IDK MAN JUST GOT MY GOV OUT TOO SMH IM TUNED IN THo my dude 1oo%
Is the 440cc good u think better then the 274cc @xscoops1
this thing is fkn awsome
Do you know if the gx390 head is better than the non hemi 420 head
Non hemi 420 and gx390 heads should be very comparable, the hemis have the wider head and different valve configuration
Sweet!!
which exact flywheel did you get from ARC? is it the one with E start?
Yes the predator 420 flywheel with the e-start ring
That rear slick is legit 🔥 What size is it? And, how much do those badboys cost? Thanks 👍
It's a JR Dragster slick. You can find them online for around $110-120 size is 18x8-8
Sounds like the motor at top speed is cutting out ?
Yeah it was definitely sputtering. I swapped jets and adjusted the needle position so I think my next time out it'll be better. I haven't posted yet, but the one run I got a couple weeks ago was a full 6 mph faster so we're getting better
Nice bike. You’re torque converter is not setup right, its not. The movable sides need to be opposing.
Sorry but you're incorrect
What kind of carb are you using and what size if you don't mind saying
I am using a 34mm flatslide mikuni
Why are people so afraid to change the front sprocket
Not sure but it's an easy way to get the right gearing
That took a long time. What was this bike before the Chinese lawnmower engine was installed?
Lol well I'm not sure exactly what you mean with this comment, these bikes come normally with Chinese 6.5hp 212cc lawnmower engines...
@@xscoops1 That's the question. Is it one of those Coleman bikes with the big tires?
@@1sinister80 when you say "that took a long time" I had no idea what you were asking was if it was a Coleman style minibike but to be more specific it's a mega moto 212 pro frame, same as a Coleman RB200, so yeah it started out that way yes
@xscoops1 Yeah, that was all I was asking. I didn't recognize the frame. I was thinking it was an old street bike that you converted, but then the run you did was too long to be any geared bike. Then it dawned on me that I didn't hear you shifting. So by then, I pit 2 and 2 together, hence the lawnmower engine comment.
@@1sinister80 makes sense! I didn't understand but I see what your saying now 👍🏼
Don't need any extra weight.....so what's the headlight for?
Track I ran at required lights
Several seconds that it has run out of gear.the gearing definatly isn't right. You want to run out of gear at the Finnish line or right before the Finnish line.looks like it pulls pretty good till it runs out of gear.the right gearing and a few more hp would lower the et big time.
LINK TO WHEELS PLZZZZ
Rear is just a stock 8" wheel for a MM212 pro, front is from a '20 Honda Grom. Either can be bought from a ton of different places
What is the size of the Hoosier tire?
18x8-8
change out your rollers and springs in the clutch for stall it will pick up 60
If you listen in the video I already have done that, springs and weights both are changed
I have mine set at 2800 stall works well 1.2 60' 9 sec 660'
@@joemontgomery9420 it's more the gearing, motor is still pulling at max speed so now with the new gear ratio I'll have to wait until the weather warms up and test again
@@xscoops1 do you want to get rid of the duramax head ?
@@joemontgomery9420 I would sell it with the exhaust that fits it, has no springs or valves in it
Where did u get that rear tire
@angelRostro-j8w don't remember the website but just Google Hoosier JR Dragster 18x8-8
Maybe a dumb question, but with the 40 series doesn't either the driver or driven unit need to be mounted "inboard" orientation?
I only have "hands on" experience with 30 series and Polaris CVTs, so I'm not telling anyome "how to do their job".
For reference:
ruclips.net/video/Bh--LbTIdLI/видео.html
This is an awesome, well built bike. I really like the way you clearanced the frame behind the driven pulley, that stuck out to me as the best part, aesthetically.
Not a dumb question. What you'll see is that the driver can be ran either way. Typically the driven is either an inboard or outboard setup. The other thing you'll notice between the 30 and 40 series, why the driver and be flipped, is the 40 series belt is symmetrical and the 30 series is asymmetrical. Notice on the 30 there is a taper on one side of the belt that only goes one way. The 40 series belt isn't that way.
If the driven pulley is reversed “outboard” as seen in the video, then you must have a reverse wound spring “yellow spring”. If the driven pulley is in this configuration, the driver pulley should not be “outboard” it should be mounted “inboard” so that the belt stays aligned fully during high rpm’s. This only works on the 40 series comet driver as the 44 series driver can only be mounted one way, but will still use the 40 series driven.
What the top speed on this thing
Waiting to get back to the drag strip since changing up the gear ratio...was only getting 52mph before we had maxed our gear ratio. Plus we added a turbo...🤷
@@xscoops1 .... wow
25 shot of n2o and C16 gas ⛽️
You better do some more work on gearing.
My 212 predator on a standard doodlebug frame goes 9.50s at 68 in the 1/8. That's almost 3 sec quicker than your 1/8 mile. I've never ran mine thru 1/4 mile but I know it will go 77 top speed.
Something ain't right here. Combo sounds great, something seems off
That's why we test. Already changed our gearing, another big difference between yours and this is the weight...frame and motor are probably double or triple yours
@@xscoops1just realized this is from 5 months ago. First I wanna say that I wasn't putting you down and love your answer about testing.
Maybe you have a new video out soon with results?
Also, I love that front wheel and want one! Where do I get one???
How the hell did you shoe horn that motor into that chassis?
Removing the tank, exhaust, and factory intake were the biggest issues. After that, we cut the frame and made made clearance for the TC. We cut out to factory motor mount plate and jackshaft and welded in a new 1/4" thick steel plate and I added the big block billet adjustable mount to get it all square
@TedTucholski that's the plan but needed something to get by for now
How many times can you say. UUUMMM !!?
Dude such a good observation! 👍🏼
Needs higher gear sounds like, should do 80mph 🚩🐢
re do your break line dam
Your engine is running lean at higher speeds
That's why we go to test and tune....
My drag did 75 on street
That tire is way too much for that setup. Should definitely go with a normal size mini bike tire which would help.
It's not but I appreciate it
@@xscoops1 I’ve seen people on smaller tires go much faster so it’s definitely way over kill unless you are running close to what a junior drag rail car is doing.
@robertspata90 we are competing with JRs. That's kinda the point...the point people are missing is that the speeds were hitting in 660ft and most races are 330ft....minibike people don't get it, it's not about top speed...it's acceleration 100%
@@xscoops1Yes that’s what I mean by fast as in get to the end of the 1/8 as fast as you can. Same for me top speed I could care less about so if I can accelerate as fast as possible and get to the end first is what I care about the most. I have a smaller diameter and probably the same width as your front tire on my rear wheel and cut a 1.9 60ft on the street without prep. I was going to say just get a second front wheel and put it in the back and see how that runs. Now if you start making 3 times the power then you might need that big slick again.
@robertspata90 it's making good power man, that's like the second thing I hear from people...like these small blocks can make a MAX of 30ish HP when they are FULLY built...all billet etc...this motor bone stock is 16hp...now with all billet internals and ratio rockers, built up TC you still think it's under powered? How so? Where's the logic in that? I'm dragging on but the comments I get without any basis is draining for real....not directing my rant at you just catching me as I'm reading through some of these
You keep saying THE RUN'S 😆 as if you have diarrhea while you are filming this 😆
Take off the govoner
Lol there is no govoner
Stop smacking your lips when you talk please. 😆
Great feedback! 👍🏼