Sir you get a follow, thumbs up, bell ring and all from me I have looked over You Tube and this has got to be one of the most in detail video's and explanations i have ever seen. I was riding down the road and what you explained on the speed odometer and millage gage was exactly what happen to me. Never worked on bikes or knew about them but this totally helped me.
Very good video, just a couple of points which need to be addressed most people assume electrical system operation to be relative to some unexplainable magic when the fact is they fail to understand its actually 3 systems operating as one The First piece of the electrical system is the rotor and stator, which produce all of the electrical systems current/voltage via simple magnetism, however those two simple systems produce alternating current and uncontrolled voltage. Therefore two other items are necessary to direct current flow and maintain voltage The second part of the system is the rectifier, which is basically a set of diodes (pair for each stator winding) which basically change Alternating current into Direct current by blocking and therefore routing the AC current through the correct diode, as well as sensing battery voltage through smaller diodes. Finally there is voltage control which is accomplished today by silicon devices, mostly zener diodes. These diodes simply open at a specific voltage, clipping the output of the stator/rotor. The voltage regulator does not control voltage output via heat. ...... Those are the 3 system components which makeup the electrical system .... The number one failure in most electrical systems is resistance to current flow through the systems conductors Resistance can be caused by (poor/loose connection(s), anything causing insulation such as paint, corrosion etc, conductor material, and conductor size). Resistance can be found using a simple voltage drop test. If your electrical system is not keeping the battery charged, look for resistance in the system and resolve those problems prior to purchasing a replacement battery, else that resistance will cause failure of your new battery.
I am working on a project vstar 1100 with electrical issues. The battery dies over night with nothing on. Your video is very helpful maybe I can locate the problem without changing part after part . Harbour Freight here I come ! Volt meter of course
@@retrotechandelectronics I didn't need a meter after all. Discovered the problem , wrong starter relay . The previous owner changed it 3 times , only to be replaced with the same wrong part. It looks right , but the ground tab is on the hot side not the ground side , causing the problem.
Love this video. I installed a Dash Cam on my 2007 1100 vstar. Only issue is I don't know where to hookup separate wire so it powers up Cam when Kerry is turned on. Right now it's connected directly to battery. I just disconnect cable from Cam when I turn bike off.
Wow… you are great, and inspiring. Question: So at the end you talk about the speedometer bouncing. That happened to me today. What I did while driving, was switch the lights onto park (no lights, but blinkers work at least tho blinking super fast and brake lights work). Anyways, pull up to gas station, fuel up… cross my fingers- but no. Almost starts, but not enough, and next attempt battery is dead. So I push it up and roll down a hill to start it in second gear…. Works. Weird thing is that now that issue is gone, but after like 10min driving, same happens… speedometer goes insane, my voltage display (gadget) blinks crazy numbers… I check all the fuzes. But now I’m on RUclips desperately looking for help. Any idea?
Great video. My son has been wrestling with voltage issues on his 2001 XVS 1100. Initially when under load, the voltage would jump to 17-18. We checked the connection to the stator and it was fine, so he replaced the regulator, installed a meter to the battery to keep a closer eye when driving. At idle it's reading 12ish. YAY! We thought it was fixed. However when he drives it at higher speeds it climbs up to 15. Last night on a short ride it blew a running light. Any ideas where to go next with this? Super frustrating!
Love your videos very helpful and informative. I would love to see a video on rebuilding the forks on the V star 1100 as I have this project coming up and your detail and thoroughness would be very helpful!
Great video man I recently bought a 99 drag star 1100 and I noticed the speedo was playing funny buggers. When I got back to the garage after a short ride it wouldn't start . The bike has 5000 kms and I have been hesitant to buying parts as its such low mileage. Thanks for a great video I'm sure it will help me troubleshooting 🤟
Thank you for this video! Recently bought a 99 vstar an it's been quite the experience. I just replaced the battery, now the new battery doesn't have enough juice to fire up the bike. I'm not sure if it is the voltage regulator that went out or the alternator. The speedometer and LCD display did act up, just like you explained at the end, so now it's just a matter of finding out what the problem is. Thank you again and any advice will be greatly appreciated
@@retrotechandelectronics yes sir I did, I took the bike out for a spin, came back, turned off the engine, then tried to fire it it back up and nothing
I just purchased an ‘05 1100 classic I’m going to be running some electrical tests on. This video was super helpful. Out of curiosity, what would cause draw from the battery when the bike is off?
I’ve had my regulator, rectifier and stator replaced about 2 years ago and the battery is apparently fine but I was out riding and my speedometer needle started spazzing out and going all over the place and eventually lost power to the instrument cluster. I pull off the highway a bit and eventually lose all power to the bike. Just had the battery tested and checked out fully charged. What could cause this to happen? It’s an 05 1100 Silverado
My 02 vstar has a .4 millamp drain. Also, when at idle my battery drains. I have to rev up for it to charge properly. I installed a new Yamaha regulator 6 months before this and it worked perfect then.? (Old regulator wasn’t charging battery) any ideas?
I have a question, I went through my entire electrical system using your videos (which are a great help) and other various forums and websites. I’ve replaced my Regulator Rectifier, it had overheated so much that it melted the plastic housing for it. I replaced the stator, the wires had fried at the connector coming out of the case. And I’ve replaced the wires and connectors that fried. But I’m still not getting a charge at my brand new battery. All my fuses look good too. Bike turned on and throttle reved up and I’m still just dropping voltage from the battery. Any suggestions?
Watched this video to try to help my problem. Helpful but I am seeing something slightly different. When I fire up the bike when it is cold, I get 13.8V at the battery terminals. After the bike warms up, I am only getting 11.8V at the terminals. So as I ride my battery is going dead. I checked the stator connector and got around 48V at fast idol on all three of the plugs therefore I believe my stator is working fine. Can a rectifier/regulator cause the problem or does this sound more like a ground problem.
How can I tell if my stator is bad? Coz what you said last about the speedometer and LCD going wacky is happening to me whilst riding. It's not the battery, but my bike will just keep dying while in use.
Have you come across a situation that the battery is at 12+ volts with key in Off and when key is turned to On it goes to essentially 0? Ignition switch tested fine for continuity as did the kill switch. Main main fuse and fuses in side panel are all good. I’m out of ideas of what would cause the bike to have no power. Possibly battery is bad?
A dead short. Id measure current across a battery lead and see what the draw is..... It may cost you a meter fuse, so beware. I usually use an inductive ammeter for this test, guessing you dont have one,
battery went out last week replaced the battery a few days ago worked perfectly. Took it out and on the way back lights went dim speedometer dropped completely, and the odometer went out as well. Got three jumps but it refused to hold a charge and when I went to restart it engine wouldn’t turn at all. checked my fuses all seem good. getting a multimeter and a battery charger today so I can run some troubleshooting. any other ideas?
Great info! I have a 2000 XVS1100, and I haphazardly crossed the terminals (for only a split second - unintentionally) on my battery while installing a new one. The battery survived and it still good condition, but the bike is now dead. No lights. Nothing. I checked the fuses on the left side and everything looks good, but I'm not sure what to check next. I am not that experienced with electrical stuff. Any idea what I might look at to find out what I probably fried? The ignition was off when this happened. And before the mishap, the bike was turning over.
@@retrotechandelectronics I actually figured that out from another one of your videos. Thanks. Appreciate all the time you've put into sharing your knowledge with your videos!
I have a power short to my gauges, odometer and starter coming from a relay attached to the top end of battery box by a rubber boot. the relay has 2 fuses attached to it. when going down the road the wind catches it jus right it wiggles it loose. can you name the relay? I'd like to compare an see if it's broken some how.
Good video I tried it,I had a question I checked all my wires an fuses but I notice at times my vstar 1100 speedo jumps,but all the time I have my signals on the lights will flash also and if u hit the brakes the lights will dim.have u ever experience this issue?
Nice. No idea whats wrong with mine tho. It does charge with old and new regulator but it still drains while driving and also when its off(Slowly). I cant measure it while i drive so i don't know when it starts to fail but iv'e been stranded a couple of times haha.
good video! ive been looking in to a cruiser but my main criteria is reliability. ive heard these Yamaha vstar are at the top of the list, would you agree with this!
Having a starting problem. Replaced battery. On full charge, will start 8-10 times, but then nothing. Going through your tests, with the bike running, voltage only reads about 13.1v, so I'm assuming rectifier. I wanted to replace it myself, but can't figure out how to get the cover past the exhaust pipes. Has anyone done this? Is there a trick? Any help appreciated! Thanks.
I use this time to demonstrate that the idle current is about 6 amps for a vstar. If I hit the starter I would have obviously blown out the meter. DONT HIT THE STARTER. DONT!!!!! DONT!!!!!!! If your multi meter is in the 10 to 20 amp seperate input, and you do try to run everything through the meter including the starter, please dont worry because the meter will probably be able to handle the current draw for a brief period while the starter is engaged.
I have 2006 VSTAR1100 that is getting zero power. Brand new battery thats fully charged. Turn the key to on and absolutely zero pull from the battery. I cannot figure out what the problem is. Terminals are clean, fuses are new, starter relay is new. Any ideas?
I have a charging problem on my 2002 V-star classic, 12.9 volts at rest, 10.2 volts at start. but only 11.3 volts while running no matter the rpms . Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.
@@retrotechandelectronics It's yamaha dragstar xvs 650a, 2007. It has an immobilizer built in so that you can't start a bike without a key. You can see it as red led blinking on the panel
I'm very late to the party but hopefully someone knowledgeable sees this. I have just bought a 02 v star 1100. I test the battery when the bike is off, it shows around 12.4. I turn the key and it slowly starts draining like the video says. However, when I start the engine and let it idle, the volts read at around 14v for about 1 minute and then starts to decline. It goes somewhat rapidly down to around 12.5 then slowly started to decline.. probably .01 volt every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal? Backstory: my bike left my stranded the other day and I am now diagnosing the issue.
Check your voltage regulator rectifier. Located looking at the air cleaner, left and under the battery cover is another cover behind the pipes. You can remove the battery and take off the back half of the pipes (2 screws between the pipes) to get the cover off and gain access. The stator might be having issues as well. Check both 👍
@@stoic9701 np I just had my rectifier go bad. Smoke coming from behind that cover, it was melting the back of plastic box it sits in. You can also quick check the stator from there at the harness (test a to b, a to c also a,b,c to battery ground to see if it has a short) the ohms might be a tad higher (on my meter it read 5 instead of 4) because of the extra wire or you can pull the opposite side cover off and check directly at the plug. If a to b & a to c are equal and stays OL to the ground, then odds are that the stator is good. If the rectifier goes bad it'll take out the starter relay fuse (I think it's called that) that's located under the seat n plastic cover. It's a 30amp llarge blade fuse. If that pops you'll loose dash lights, head light, everything. Good note though, there is a spare 30A fuse on the other side of the assembly. In case you die on the side of the road you can unhook the rectifier, replace the fuse and start and ride home on the battery for as long as it lasts 😉😁 Hope this helps you out. These are a very fun bike to ride 💪 and own. 👍👍
Retro Tech & Electronics Ok it's long but I will try and shorten it. The bike died the other day during the middle of riding. When I checked the battery it was so hot I nearly had to double my gloves to pull it out. I took it to the shop and the battery was bad so I purchased a new one. When I hooked that up, I had full power, but when I hit the start button, everything cut out as if the battery was dead and then nothing registered after that. I do have the issue where the speedometer used to occasionally worked and now doesn't at all. But either way, wasn't sure your thoughts. Appreciate it.
Retro Tech & Electronics So the bike won’t start at all. I have a new voltage regulator and a new solenoid relay. What happens right now is I plug everything up and when I turn the key to on intern on the cut off switch, the fuel pump and gauges like normal and I have full lights and everything. The second I hit the ignition switch nothing happens and the battery starts to get hot. Could it be a bad ignition switch?
First I should thank you for another excellent video! Next, we have spoke before and since you have so much experience I am hoping you can answer a question. I had the issue where I could not shift into 4th or 5th gear, and I found the solution and tightening the screw on the left side as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/XsnaqTudpVk/видео.html My issue is getting the left covcer back on, the metal rod or shaft for the Starter Idler Gear came out when I removed the cover, and I am having a great deal of trouble sliding it back in. I have cleaned and greased it but I just can't slide it back into the hole. Have you ever had this issue? Can it be put back into place without having to remove the rotor? Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.
"don't do as i do", too funny! what a rookie..j/k, but i don't think motorcycle's are your specialty.. anyway, the speedo will bounce, but your already DOA in 2 minutes approx, get to a good spot asap..you don't go in depth very well and should even show the fuse in question, but most of us if we ride can find it and you do say "basic" here, tis very basic, and I wouldn't show people things that another rookie might try and ruin his/her bike.. anyway, best to you nd Merry Christmas! :-)
Haynes is great but nothing's better than someone showing you how to do it and explaining in clear detail. Thanks for this😊
Youre welcome. Glad it helped.
Mate, love your videos.
Great level of information to get a better understanding of what's going on.
Much appreciated!
Sir you get a follow, thumbs up, bell ring and all from me I have looked over You Tube and this has got to be one of the most in detail video's and explanations i have ever seen. I was riding down the road and what you explained on the speed odometer and millage gage was exactly what happen to me. Never worked on bikes or knew about them but this totally helped me.
Very good video, just a couple of points which need to be addressed
most people assume electrical system operation to be relative to some unexplainable magic when the fact is they fail to understand its actually 3 systems operating as one
The First piece of the electrical system is the rotor and stator, which produce all of the electrical systems current/voltage via simple magnetism, however those two simple systems produce alternating current and uncontrolled voltage. Therefore two other items are necessary to direct current flow and maintain voltage
The second part of the system is the rectifier, which is basically a set of diodes (pair for each stator winding) which basically change Alternating current into Direct current by blocking and therefore routing the AC current through the correct diode, as well as sensing battery voltage through smaller diodes.
Finally there is voltage control which is accomplished today by silicon devices, mostly zener diodes. These diodes simply open at a specific voltage, clipping the output of the stator/rotor. The voltage regulator does not control voltage output via heat.
......
Those are the 3 system components which makeup the electrical system
....
The number one failure in most electrical systems is resistance to current flow through the systems conductors
Resistance can be caused by (poor/loose connection(s), anything causing insulation such as paint, corrosion etc, conductor material, and conductor size). Resistance can be found using a simple voltage drop test.
If your electrical system is not keeping the battery charged, look for resistance in the system and resolve those problems prior to purchasing a replacement battery, else that resistance will cause failure of your new battery.
I am working on a project vstar 1100 with electrical issues. The battery dies over night with nothing on. Your video is very helpful maybe I can locate the problem without changing part after part . Harbour Freight here I come ! Volt meter of course
Dont get the crap meter there though, pay no less than 20$. I wouldnt trust their meters with AC for a minute, but for DC, it wont cost me my life.
@@retrotechandelectronics I didn't need a meter after all. Discovered the problem , wrong starter relay . The previous owner changed it 3 times , only to be replaced with the same wrong part. It looks right , but the ground tab is on the hot side not the ground side , causing the problem.
Anthony Crochet good news, glad to hear you fixed it. The battery may have suffered though.
GREAT CHANNEL FOR THE 1100 VSTAR 1100.👍
Thanks much!
Love this video. I installed a Dash Cam on my 2007 1100 vstar. Only issue is I don't know where to hookup separate wire so it powers up Cam when Kerry is turned on. Right now it's connected directly to battery. I just disconnect cable from Cam when I turn bike off.
Wow… you are great, and inspiring. Question: So at the end you talk about the speedometer bouncing. That happened to me today. What I did while driving, was switch the lights onto park (no lights, but blinkers work at least tho blinking super fast and brake lights work). Anyways, pull up to gas station, fuel up… cross my fingers- but no. Almost starts, but not enough, and next attempt battery is dead. So I push it up and roll down a hill to start it in second gear…. Works. Weird thing is that now that issue is gone, but after like 10min driving, same happens… speedometer goes insane, my voltage display (gadget) blinks crazy numbers… I check all the fuzes. But now I’m on RUclips desperately looking for help. Any idea?
Great video. My son has been wrestling with voltage issues on his 2001 XVS 1100. Initially when under load, the voltage would jump to 17-18. We checked the connection to the stator and it was fine, so he replaced the regulator, installed a meter to the battery to keep a closer eye when driving. At idle it's reading 12ish. YAY! We thought it was fixed. However when he drives it at higher speeds it climbs up to 15. Last night on a short ride it blew a running light. Any ideas where to go next with this? Super frustrating!
Great detail information for us non-electrical people. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a well explained troubleshooting ... checking my today, Batt went down to 9.8V today
Nice work!
Love your videos very helpful and informative. I would love to see a video on rebuilding the forks on the V star 1100 as I have this project coming up and your detail and thoroughness would be very helpful!
I will be documenting the next fork rebuild.
Great video man I recently bought a 99 drag star 1100 and I noticed the speedo was playing funny buggers. When I got back to the garage after a short ride it wouldn't start . The bike has 5000 kms and I have been hesitant to buying parts as its such low mileage. Thanks for a great video I'm sure it will help me troubleshooting 🤟
Glad to help.
My v star starts week but once it running okay I did left switch on but now key does that still effect batteries loss
Thank you for this video! Recently bought a 99 vstar an it's been quite the experience. I just replaced the battery, now the new battery doesn't have enough juice to fire up the bike. I'm not sure if it is the voltage regulator that went out or the alternator. The speedometer and LCD display did act up, just like you explained at the end, so now it's just a matter of finding out what the problem is. Thank you again and any advice will be greatly appreciated
Did you charge the battery before installing it.
@@retrotechandelectronics yes sir I did, I took the bike out for a spin, came back, turned off the engine, then tried to fire it it back up and nothing
Did you go through the regiment to see if it was increasing to regulation voltage when you gave it throttle under test?
I just purchased an ‘05 1100 classic I’m going to be running some electrical tests on. This video was super helpful. Out of curiosity, what would cause draw from the battery when the bike is off?
Nothing should draw of any significance on this bike when the battery is off
I’ve had my regulator, rectifier and stator replaced about 2 years ago and the battery is apparently fine but I was out riding and my speedometer needle started spazzing out and going all over the place and eventually lost power to the instrument cluster. I pull off the highway a bit and eventually lose all power to the bike. Just had the battery tested and checked out fully charged. What could cause this to happen? It’s an 05 1100 Silverado
Did you see my video with the melting rectifier coupling cable?
@@retrotechandelectronics no can u send it to me
My 02 vstar has a .4 millamp drain. Also, when at idle my battery drains. I have to rev up for it to charge properly. I installed a new Yamaha regulator 6 months before this and it worked perfect then.? (Old regulator wasn’t charging battery) any ideas?
I have a question, I went through my entire electrical system using your videos (which are a great help) and other various forums and websites. I’ve replaced my Regulator Rectifier, it had overheated so much that it melted the plastic housing for it. I replaced the stator, the wires had fried at the connector coming out of the case. And I’ve replaced the wires and connectors that fried.
But I’m still not getting a charge at my brand new battery. All my fuses look good too. Bike turned on and throttle reved up and I’m still just dropping voltage from the battery. Any suggestions?
Also I should have added, I have almost the exact same bike. 2003 V Star 1100 classic. Another reason why I love your videos so much.
Watched this video to try to help my problem. Helpful but I am seeing something slightly different. When I fire up the bike when it is cold, I get 13.8V at the battery terminals. After the bike warms up, I am only getting 11.8V at the terminals. So as I ride my battery is going dead. I checked the stator connector and got around 48V at fast idol on all three of the plugs therefore I believe my stator is working fine. Can a rectifier/regulator cause the problem or does this sound more like a ground problem.
Thanks for the video, helped me do a little trouble shooting.
Glad I gound help
How can I tell if my stator is bad? Coz what you said last about the speedometer and LCD going wacky is happening to me whilst riding. It's not the battery, but my bike will just keep dying while in use.
Run the tests as indicated in the video to make this determination
My v star 1100 won't run on neutral if I let go of the clutch what could be the problem clutch ?
Have you come across a situation that the battery is at 12+ volts with key in Off and when key is turned to On it goes to essentially 0? Ignition switch tested fine for continuity as did the kill switch. Main main fuse and fuses in side panel are all good. I’m out of ideas of what would cause the bike to have no power. Possibly battery is bad?
A dead short. Id measure current across a battery lead and see what the draw is..... It may cost you a meter fuse, so beware. I usually use an inductive ammeter for this test, guessing you dont have one,
battery went out last week replaced the battery a few days ago worked perfectly.
Took it out and on the way back lights went dim speedometer dropped completely, and the odometer went out as well.
Got three jumps but it refused to hold a charge and when I went to restart it engine wouldn’t turn at all.
checked my fuses all seem good.
getting a multimeter and a battery charger today so I can run some troubleshooting.
any other ideas?
Great info!
I have a 2000 XVS1100, and I haphazardly crossed the terminals (for only a split second - unintentionally) on my battery while installing a new one. The battery survived and it still good condition, but the bike is now dead. No lights. Nothing. I checked the fuses on the left side and everything looks good, but I'm not sure what to check next. I am not that experienced with electrical stuff. Any idea what I might look at to find out what I probably fried? The ignition was off when this happened. And before the mishap, the bike was turning over.
You need to check the main fuse that's separate from all of the rest
@@retrotechandelectronics I actually figured that out from another one of your videos. Thanks. Appreciate all the time you've put into sharing your knowledge with your videos!
I have a power short to my gauges, odometer and starter coming from a relay attached to the top end of battery box by a rubber boot. the relay has 2 fuses attached to it. when going down the road the wind catches it jus right it wiggles it loose. can you name the relay? I'd like to compare an see if it's broken some how.
Good video I tried it,I had a question I checked all my wires an fuses but I notice at times my vstar 1100 speedo jumps,but all the time I have my signals on the lights will flash also and if u hit the brakes the lights will dim.have u ever experience this issue?
The cluster and blinkers/lights are on the same circuit. I believe it's a 10. Hopefully that helps somehow.
I have a 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic. The battery does die overnight. What could be the problem?
Run a multimeter in ammeter mode and read the battery circut across it to see hwat the drain value is.
Díky. Pomohlo mě to. Můj dragstar dává 17 V . Takže mám v háji regulátor dobíjení. Díky, vím kolik má dávat
Jsem rád, že to bylo užitečné.
Which throttle lock/ cruise control is that?
Great video too.
Its a cheap bolt on but does the job, I don't recall the name.....
Nice.
No idea whats wrong with mine tho.
It does charge with old and new regulator but it still drains while driving and also when its off(Slowly).
I cant measure it while i drive so i don't know when it starts to fail but iv'e been stranded a couple of times haha.
Pull fuses one by one and find the offending circuit
Much appreciated!!! You are Awesome!!
You're welcome.
good video! ive been looking in to a cruiser but my main criteria is reliability. ive heard these Yamaha vstar are at the top of the list, would you agree with this!
I would.... So long as you don't hold down the throttle along with the starter, or leave it sitting with gas for excessive amounts of time.
good information but not the information i was looking for . i wanted to see where the ground wire grounds to the frame but i'll find it thank you .
I have a 2000 Yamaha v star 1100 at idle I getting 12.1 and at 3.000 I get 13.4 and I replaced stator and rectifier is this normal
I've got 12.5ish volts at the battery while bike is running
If I rev the it up high, it drops and cuts out then popped back up to 12.5-13 volts
Having a starting problem. Replaced battery. On full charge, will start 8-10 times, but then nothing. Going through your tests, with the bike running, voltage only reads about 13.1v, so I'm assuming rectifier. I wanted to replace it myself, but can't figure out how to get the cover past the exhaust pipes. Has anyone done this? Is there a trick? Any help appreciated! Thanks.
did you get ahold of a workshop manual
I use this time to demonstrate that the idle current is about 6 amps for a vstar. If I hit the starter I would have obviously blown out the meter. DONT HIT THE STARTER. DONT!!!!! DONT!!!!!!!
If your multi meter is in the 10 to 20 amp seperate input, and you do try to run everything through the meter including the starter, please dont worry because the meter will probably be able to handle the current draw for a brief period while the starter is engaged.
Joseph Nicholas
i tried to jump start my 1100 but put the wrong cables positive & negative now the motorcycle is dead what can i do ?
I have 2006 VSTAR1100 that is getting zero power. Brand new battery thats fully charged. Turn the key to on and absolutely zero pull from the battery. I cannot figure out what the problem is. Terminals are clean, fuses are new, starter relay is new.
Any ideas?
Zero power is a good clue that something early on in the circuit is disconnected. Review the wiring diagram.
I have a charging problem on my 2002 V-star classic, 12.9 volts at rest, 10.2 volts at start. but only 11.3 volts while running no matter the rpms . Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.
If it climbs from 10.2 at idle to 11.3 and stays there through the rpm range its probably the voltage regulator.
@@retrotechandelectronics Thank you so much.
Glad i could help.
What about immobilizer? How much current it should normally consume?
Please clarify immobilizer, what model year is this?
@@retrotechandelectronics It's yamaha dragstar xvs 650a, 2007. It has an immobilizer built in so that you can't start a bike without a key. You can see it as red led blinking on the panel
I'm very late to the party but hopefully someone knowledgeable sees this. I have just bought a 02 v star 1100. I test the battery when the bike is off, it shows around 12.4. I turn the key and it slowly starts draining like the video says. However, when I start the engine and let it idle, the volts read at around 14v for about 1 minute and then starts to decline. It goes somewhat rapidly down to around 12.5 then slowly started to decline.. probably .01 volt every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal? Backstory: my bike left my stranded the other day and I am now diagnosing the issue.
Check your voltage regulator rectifier. Located looking at the air cleaner, left and under the battery cover is another cover behind the pipes. You can remove the battery and take off the back half of the pipes (2 screws between the pipes) to get the cover off and gain access. The stator might be having issues as well. Check both 👍
@@KenVreeland thank you!
@@stoic9701 np I just had my rectifier go bad. Smoke coming from behind that cover, it was melting the back of plastic box it sits in. You can also quick check the stator from there at the harness (test a to b, a to c also a,b,c to battery ground to see if it has a short) the ohms might be a tad higher (on my meter it read 5 instead of 4) because of the extra wire or you can pull the opposite side cover off and check directly at the plug. If a to b & a to c are equal and stays OL to the ground, then odds are that the stator is good. If the rectifier goes bad it'll take out the starter relay fuse (I think it's called that) that's located under the seat n plastic cover. It's a 30amp llarge blade fuse. If that pops you'll loose dash lights, head light, everything. Good note though, there is a spare 30A fuse on the other side of the assembly. In case you die on the side of the road you can unhook the rectifier, replace the fuse and start and ride home on the battery for as long as it lasts 😉😁
Hope this helps you out. These are a very fun bike to ride 💪 and own. 👍👍
Quiero saber como sacar el regulador
My vstar wont start i need help please
What size battery
What do you mean? Like the dimensions or model number of the battery as it pertains to your bike?
Nice job sir
Thanks
Thanks for the info
Glad to help!
Thanks
Great video
Thanks for the visit
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Retro Tech & Electronics Ok it's long but I will try and shorten it. The bike died the other day during the middle of riding. When I checked the battery it was so hot I nearly had to double my gloves to pull it out. I took it to the shop and the battery was bad so I purchased a new one. When I hooked that up, I had full power, but when I hit the start button, everything cut out as if the battery was dead and then nothing registered after that. I do have the issue where the speedometer used to occasionally worked and now doesn't at all. But either way, wasn't sure your thoughts. Appreciate it.
Retro Tech & Electronics So...do you have any thoughts??
Midwest Motorhead voltage regulator or a bad short. What’s the charge voltage at 2000rpm
Retro Tech & Electronics So the bike won’t start at all. I have a new voltage regulator and a new solenoid relay. What happens right now is I plug everything up and when I turn the key to on intern on the cut off switch, the fuel pump and gauges like normal and I have full lights and everything. The second I hit the ignition switch nothing happens and the battery starts to get hot. Could it be a bad ignition switch?
Put two batteries in the bike both died gauges fail on the road but not the bike it draining my battery I'm gonna check that fuse see of its blown
thanks :)
You're welcome!
First I should thank you for another excellent video! Next, we have spoke before and since you have so much experience I am hoping you can answer a question.
I had the issue where I could not shift into 4th or 5th gear, and I found the solution and tightening the screw on the left side as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/XsnaqTudpVk/видео.html My issue is getting the left covcer back on, the metal rod or shaft for the Starter Idler Gear came out when I removed the cover, and I am having a great deal of trouble sliding it back in. I have cleaned and greased it but I just can't slide it back into the hole. Have you ever had this issue? Can it be put back into place without having to remove the rotor? Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.
Sorry, im not familiar with this particular problem, so ive not had to do this.
"don't do as i do", too funny! what a rookie..j/k, but i don't think motorcycle's are your specialty.. anyway, the speedo will bounce, but your already DOA in 2 minutes approx, get to a good spot asap..you don't go in depth very well and should even show the fuse in question, but most of us if we ride can find it and you do say "basic" here, tis very basic, and I wouldn't show people things that another rookie might try and ruin his/her bike.. anyway, best to you nd Merry Christmas! :-)
Whole lot of nothing
Talk so much about nothing I just need to know where the stator connection is to test it
Acting like that is a great way to get help. Good luck.
100bucks he’s born after 2000 😂