Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. You explain things in a way that just about anyone can understand. I buy my parts on Boatz and Zilla to say thank you. Thank you for leaving out all the small talk. Straight to the point. I can't say thank you enough for that. Thank You!!!
Great video that saved me a lot of money and time. My Ducati Multistrada 1200 RR readings were F-Bias on -ve 0.460, 0.459, 0.463 and 0L on R-Bias. According to 10's of other videos and documents I should be having the SAME readings on the +ve side BUT in my case I am getting F-Bias = 0.098, 0.099, 0.102 and R-Bias 0L. Thanks to your clear and detail explanation it explains my readings - my RR is similar to the Yamaha. At the end the regulator part was faulty giving out 18v but at least now I know why the replacement RR has the same readings - wonder how many bought a new RR on the basis that they should have the same readings on both +/-. Great job and thank you.
if I'm to understand this; the best way to 'test' the regulator/rectifier is to NOT test it... instead: a - test the battery itself b- test the stator for ground fault and AC output if the stator and battery check out... replace the reg/rect (assuming all connections have been verified)
Год назад
My long experience tells me that the voltage regulator may be correct, but that something else affects the result. And even when it comes to overcharging the battery. The plus and minus connections of the regulator play an important role if sufficient charging voltage is not achieved, which for a classic lead battery is 13.9 to 14.4 VDC. Also, too low a voltage can cause a malfunction of the battery, the fuel pump or the installation of additional load.
Polaris does that on purpose so that they sell more parts. I have a Yamaha and it has been solid. My friend has had many polaris's over the years and I've been towed back once for a blown belt and once for swapping it. I've towed him back probably 30 times. And every time he repairs it spends at least $100 to fix the problem himself. Assuming it wasn't a bigger issue. Over the years fixing all of these issues has taught me the difference between the two brands and Polaris love to sell parts after you buy it.
Why wouldn't you just do a voltage check on the output of the regulator to see what it puts out, too high or low and it's damaged. Also the one thing I noticed is that cars used to have separate regulator and rectifier, not sure if they stull do, but seems the best way to go.
I wondered the same thing about why not just test the output to see if it's putting out 12.8-14.3 dc volts or whatever. I mean it's interesting to figure out if a diode or diodes went bad or if it's the regulator portion that went bad but since the whole thing is a single replaceable unit, it either works or it doesn't work. If the input is good and the output is bad then the RR is bad, so replace the RR. Maybe there is a reason you can't test it that way but I can't think of what that reason might be. 🤔🤔🤔
This is a kind of old video but I figured I'd ask a question three-phase stator on my Polaris RZR1000 turbo EPS with no extra accessories all the test test good. No resistance to ground The dynamic test 20 volts AC at an idle. I accelerate it to 3000 RPMs roughly and it goes up to 60 volts AC so the stater is obviously good I think lol but I keep having to replace VRRs I'm on number four bought one Polaris one from you guys that lasted about a hundred miles. Just bought a cheap one off Amazon that lasted a day bought Rick's Hot shot that lasted a week so that's three right there. The previous owner put the hotshot on it so they went through one VRR I've replaced the battery which is brand new. All wire leads are really good. Even added extra grounds The wires from the stator keep getting hot and melting along with the VRR getting hot hot to the touch. I'm really stumped here. Any info I'd appreciate it. My next one I put on it is going to be a dual output. Stator in multiple VRs. I just don't really want to spend the money right yet but if you add up the parts I could already done it 😆 idk it just don't make any sense to me
Hello thanks for an elaborate presentation . My question is around the extras ( lights,loud horn heated grips that we put on our bikes,so do we need a different set of regulator/ rectifier ? Or wht do we need? And you have a good voice ,very clear.
Great video! Hope you can help on this issue: A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current. At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt. I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting. As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault. Tests i have done: - the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter - with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged - at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator - the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil - apparently all the masses are well connected. Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier? Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
I enjoyed the video, but I perform a final forward and reverse bias test between the positive and negative terminals. Between the pos and neg terminals, the unit will still conduct in one direction only, but the resistance is approximately double what was measured checking the single diodes. Also, I would have liked to see the results of forward bias vs reverse bias on the Yamaha and Polaris units. I believe the units will still show resistance near the same value during forward bias, for both the pos and neg terminals, but will indicate a resistance during reverse bias that will be appx. the same for all three legs, but the resistance may be higher or lower than the forward bias test. Still it is a process of elimination. The best test is with a known good unit. If you install a known good unit and it works, then the old unit was the faulty culprit. Most owners just don't have a spare unit on the shelf to test with.
I have a 2018 Yamaha 450 yfz I am Jaden 12 V at the starter and the starter is good but it doesn’t turn over and then at the relay the cable for the starter up at 12 V and it starts
so what would be the more common type of failures on these, if the diodes fail on the forward bias portion what would be symptom? and if they fail on the reverse bias test, what would be a symptom? i'm thinking one overcharges the battery and one undercharges it
wow. very interesting. thanks. I tested a suzuki GSXr750, it reads just over .6 volts when i do the forward biast test.. one of the diodes failed the test when testong positive sode of regulator/rectifier
I got a 2021 Honda Pioneer 1000-5. When I plug in the rectifier it pulls the motor down and eventually making it stall. I can unplug it and it runs as it should. So I tested the rectifier as you showed how to for a Honda and with my meter neg lead on the positive And positive on each point and it was in the range of .122. And with the meter positive lead on the neg while you test point it was in the range of .521. (Any help will be much appreciated)!! Also I test the battery when it do run and it shows 13.8 bolts..
Partzilla does NOT allow us to search for parts by specific model for the 2021 Yamaha Side By sides. They say they are waiting for Yamaha (their parts competitor) to provide parts numbers. ALTHOUGH you can find those parts if you search for them individually by manufacture part number. You can't have it both ways. Fix your model listings for parts that you obviously stock or we will purchase them elsewhere.
My regulator is not controlling the voltage. My battery is being overcharged. All diodes seem to work. I dont know if i should buy a new r or try to fix my current one
Can a bad regulator cause loss of power while out riding. My 1999 RK HD will start and ride for 2to 6 miles then lose power after a 15 wait will start up when dies after a few miles. Greatly appreciate any advise. Thank you all.
My 1996 Harley-Davidson, FXDS (Dyna Glide Convertable) has a charging circuit problem. I removed the battery which checked good. None of the HD dealers will work on bikes older than 15 years old or bikes built before 2000. I believe I know where the rectifier/regulator is mounted. I do have the bike’s service manual which doesn’t give a parts location! Give me some help, please.
Hello. Negative lead on positive side I get following reading : .553,.553,.544 Positive lead on negative side : .557,.521,.551. Are the small differences indicating faulty rectifier? Thanks!
Im having power steering light come on sporadically a 2020 polaris sportsman 850. I know my stator, battery and relay are good. Could the regulator be causing this? This is the only symptom I have.
My 2017 yz450f regulator rectifier has 2 wires coming out of it a red and black one, no matter what ohm setting i put the multimeter on it shows “0L “ but on the other wires that it plugs into “the stator connnection it shows a reading on the “20 ohm” setting. does that means that could be the cause of my NO SPARK situation , keep in mind this bike doesnt have a battery
we are manufacturer of voltage regulator , and this way test diodes or mosfet work or no. and if you need lower temperature when it work , you should choose mosfet regulator.
Год назад
But then we get a slightly higher temperature in the stator of the generator. Is it?
Does it matter if all the forward bias readings on the positive side are 0.1 when all the readings on the negative side are 0.45? In other words, should the readings be close to the same for both the positive and negative? This is with a Honda rectifier.
the issue being in philippines. Some sellers do not state if mosfet or non mosfet and bad designs (most likely class c fakes). 2 failed installed burnt out. One was not mosfet i did not use yet. Worried it would not be good for new style batteries. Can i use the non mosfet for temp use until i buy a real RR from you? shipping time args
Hi guys I have triumph Tiger 800 2013 and it keeps blowing my rectifier 5 of then now within 5min of running bike the stator was checked and it was fine but i have replace it anyway and same thing happened again I have been buying the MOSFET one as they supposedly ment to be more reliable but for some reason are not for me. Am I using the wrong RR? Or have problem simpler else? Just to mention the battery is new on the bike . Thanks in advance
Great vid I have a Yamaha 2016 yxz 1000r I think this might be my problem. The fuse on my starter relay keeps blowing out. When I replace it it starts for about 3-5 seconds then dies. I know that it can be a lot of things but could the rectifier caused this problem to happen? Trying to figure it out any help would be appreciated🤞
Would the regulator stop the front of my bike from getting power? My winch and starter solenoid are getting power, I just don't know why the neutral lights and starter button aren't working. The bike just died while riding and we replaced the battery which did nothing
Having owned a number of Hondas and having run into various issues with the charging systems, I’ve had to educate myself on the diagnostic testing methods. One question that I’ve never found an answer to has been the overheating of the stator/rr connectors which gets so hot it melts the plastic housings of the spade connectors- the bike in question being a 1998 VFR800. Figuring that either the stator or the RR or both were at fault, I’ve replaced both at one time or another. But I’m wondering if a dead battery caused by leaving the key on and then having to bump start the bike could be the culprit? My thought was that the stator is sending approximately 55ac volts to the RR trying to charge a low/dead battery (plus perhaps having a poor connection at the plug) could be causing resistance at the connector creating so much heat that it melts the plastic and over heats the spade connectors? On the VFR in question, the 3 yellow wires from the stator appear to be 16ga. wire connecting to 12ga. wire from the RR. A recent upgrade has been a new style Mosfet RR and a automotive style connectors.
Yea cheers mate , this 2 years after you posted was sort of helpful , because Ive wondered at times the very same thing .. maybe one day , we’ll find out .
I replaced 3 r/rectifiers for my scooter .it is 4 pin r/rectifier . But one is getting overcharging 18v . the others Not getting voltage to battery . How would i find the perfect one Pls help
My r1 2010 isn’t powering on at all, no lights, not even fuel pump kicking on after sitting during winter. I checked fuses, 2 new battery’s. Could this cause it? Please help
It worked perfectly before just in January this year. I don’t know much about bikes but could it be a ground issue as well? Since it’s not getting power at all
Hello, Nice vid. What do think the #1 reason is, for R/R to go bad? I don't have much faith, in the made in china R/R . But I just came across a 1982 Nos Suzuki R/R , & I'm inclined to replace this Made in China, with the Japanese model.
I need help, I have 06 gsxr 750 that will crank but not start. I've put a brand knew shorai battery in it to be sure, lights come on, fuel pump, relay clicks, starter is turning motor over, checked the fuses under the seat, it's doing everything its supposed too besides running. The battery in it before was dead when I hooked it to the charger. I rode the bike yesterday. Think it's the reg/rec?
What year bro ? My 14 is like draining the hell out the battery. The yuasa one that came with it progressively got harder to start and the. Eventually would power dash and lights but wouldn’t turn over the engine
@@rollathegawdchild4339 them bikes u have to always have bike on a Battery tender . It requires a good crank. My friend always has issues when he does not use his bike for few weeks
can the Regulator Rectifier cause power issues (that's not related to battery) ? .. for example my bike has dim lights that get brighter as RPM increase and rough idle problems .. ive "pinned" the stator and that seems OK and my battery does charge (new battery)
Thank you for the video. My Polaris Ranger 2014 900 crew is not charging appropriately. The stator appears to be producing the correct AC current. I have removed the regulator and tested (part# 4013978). When testing both the + and - lead of the RR, I ONLY get a reading (.413) on all three phases when testing the positive side of the RR..... touching negative meter lead to positive RR lead. All other test show .OL. I believe this confirms the RR has failed?
Great episode about this head cracking problem!! Luckily my Bandit1200 doesnt have this because she is using a piggyback alternator instead with all the diode and circuitry within it like a car system!
The Polaris regulator rectifier that you test in the video is oem part # 4016868, my question is, should it be the same result on polaris regulator rectifier oem part # 4015230? When I measure my 4015230 the result is: meter black to battery + = 0.480 on all 3 wires. meter black to battery - = OL meter red to battery + = OL meter red to battery - = OL. Is my rectifier 4015230 bad or is it just a polaris rectifier? :-)
When im measuring in forward bias I'm getting 502,495,493? and reverse I'm getting 125, 125,126? From a can am Outlander 1000 do you happen to know what there supposed to be measured at?
When you Reversed Biased the Diodes why was the DMM reading OL for open loop? Is that because there's too much Resistance and nothing is going through?
hello everyone!! who faced such problem? Loss of power on a 2013 Sea Doo GTX 155, the battery is new, the starter relay is normal, what could be the cause, could it be the voltage regulator, or another reason?
Great video John, thank you very much! In short, I understand with the variations in design it is hard to be exact. The RR I'm testing from my son's Triumph 675 is similar to the Yamaha one you demonstrated. Doing a positive-bias off the negative terminal I get 0.464V off each of the rectifier pins (a little lower than you note/recommend). Doing a forward-bias off the negative terminal I get .114V at the rectifier pins. Though the voltages are slightly lower, it performs as you illustrated and is bang on consistent in terms of voltage reading pin-to-pin when forward biased. The question I have is this still considered a pass?
To forward bias the diode you must apply a positive voltage from the voltmeter on the anode side of the diode and the voltmeter negative on the cathode. The anode is the large part of the triangle and the cathode is the point that intersects the line. The vehicle battery is shown in the diagram for reference but plays no part in testing.
@@TiberiusStorm Long time ago, but if you're still wondering... When using your multimeter, there is a small current flowing from the positive to the negative leads when you measure. The symbol of a diode is an arrow. The current flows in the direction of the arrow, but not in the opposite way. If you look at the drawing at 3:24, you would have to place the positive lead to the negative side of the regulator and the negative lead to one of the 3 wires of the regulator, to be able to measure the diode (being around 0.5v). If the diodes are good and you reverse your leads (negative to negative, and positive to one of the 3 wires), you should measure nothing/endless.
Hello all. Looking for a rectifying regulator for a 2011 Big Bear Chopper Sled 300. I wanted to know if this is the one that fits. If not, can anyone help me find the one I need.? Thank you in advance.
Buenas tardes, disculpen la pregunta algún distribuidor de partzilla en el pais de México que con facilidad podamos adquirir sus partes, ya que nos sale muy costoso mandarlas a pedir, desde estados unidos. Por el pago aduanal etc. Saludos y que tengan excelente tarde.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. You explain things in a way that just about anyone can understand. I buy my parts on Boatz and Zilla to say thank you. Thank you for leaving out all the small talk. Straight to the point. I can't say thank you enough for that. Thank You!!!
John telly
The best teacher ever!!
Yup, good video. no problems with charg system on bikes, just want to keep this info in my skull.
Great video that saved me a lot of money and time. My Ducati Multistrada 1200 RR readings were F-Bias on -ve 0.460, 0.459, 0.463 and 0L on R-Bias. According to 10's of other videos and documents I should be having the SAME readings on the +ve side BUT in my case I am getting F-Bias = 0.098, 0.099, 0.102 and R-Bias 0L.
Thanks to your clear and detail explanation it explains my readings - my RR is similar to the Yamaha. At the end the regulator part was faulty giving out 18v but at least now I know why the replacement RR has the same readings - wonder how many bought a new RR on the basis that they should have the same readings on both +/-.
Great job and thank you.
You probably have a MOSFET regulator. The MOSFET regulator has approx. 0.500 on one side and approx. 0.100 on the other. And that's okay.
John and Dustin are two of the best mechanic online hands down!!! Thabks for all your help!
if I'm to understand this; the best way to 'test' the regulator/rectifier is to NOT test it... instead:
a - test the battery itself
b- test the stator for ground fault and AC output
if the stator and battery check out... replace the reg/rect (assuming all connections have been verified)
My long experience tells me that the voltage regulator may be correct, but that something else affects the result. And even when it comes to overcharging the battery. The plus and minus connections of the regulator play an important role if sufficient charging voltage is not achieved, which for a classic lead battery is 13.9 to 14.4 VDC. Also, too low a voltage can cause a malfunction of the battery, the fuel pump or the installation of additional load.
Polaris does that on purpose so that they sell more parts. I have a Yamaha and it has been solid. My friend has had many polaris's over the years and I've been towed back once for a blown belt and once for swapping it. I've towed him back probably 30 times. And every time he repairs it spends at least $100 to fix the problem himself. Assuming it wasn't a bigger issue. Over the years fixing all of these issues has taught me the difference between the two brands and Polaris love to sell parts after you buy it.
07:44 One Question, What is the middle pin of the black connector that goes to the electrical system for?
does it have any use?
someone could help me?
The best Video about Rectifiers and how they work/measure them !!! very good explained and helpfull
I tend to ask my self what would john tally do... Not sure if that's how he spells his name but these videos are a life saver.
Why wouldn't you just do a voltage check on the output of the regulator to see what it puts out, too high or low and it's damaged.
Also the one thing I noticed is that cars used to have separate regulator and rectifier, not sure if they stull do, but seems the best way to go.
I wondered the same thing about why not just test the output to see if it's putting out 12.8-14.3 dc volts or whatever. I mean it's interesting to figure out if a diode or diodes went bad or if it's the regulator portion that went bad but since the whole thing is a single replaceable unit, it either works or it doesn't work. If the input is good and the output is bad then the RR is bad, so replace the RR. Maybe there is a reason you can't test it that way but I can't think of what that reason might be. 🤔🤔🤔
This is a kind of old video but I figured I'd ask a question three-phase stator on my Polaris RZR1000 turbo EPS with no extra accessories all the test test good. No resistance to ground The dynamic test 20 volts AC at an idle. I accelerate it to 3000 RPMs roughly and it goes up to 60 volts AC so the stater is obviously good I think lol but I keep having to replace VRRs I'm on number four bought one Polaris one from you guys that lasted about a hundred miles. Just bought a cheap one off Amazon that lasted a day bought Rick's Hot shot that lasted a week so that's three right there. The previous owner put the hotshot on it so they went through one VRR I've replaced the battery which is brand new. All wire leads are really good. Even added extra grounds The wires from the stator keep getting hot and melting along with the VRR getting hot hot to the touch. I'm really stumped here. Any info I'd appreciate it. My next one I put on it is going to be a dual output. Stator in multiple VRs. I just don't really want to spend the money right yet but if you add up the parts I could already done it 😆 idk it just don't make any sense to me
Hello thanks for an elaborate presentation .
My question is around the extras ( lights,loud horn heated grips that we put on our bikes,so do we need a different set of regulator/ rectifier ? Or wht do we need? And you have a good voice ,very clear.
Great video!
Hope you can help on this issue:
A few days ago, while riding my SYM VS 125, a lot of smoke started coming out of the front of the bike and the engine started to fail. I turned off the ignition and cut the battery current.
At home I took it apart to see what was going on and the rectifier was visibly burnt.
I took the bike to a workshop where they changed the rectifier and the battery, but they didn't solve the problem. The new rectifier continues to heat up a lot and too fast, as if something is short circuiting.
As they couldn't solve the problem and it still cost me a few €€, I picked up the motorcycle with the fault.
Tests i have done:
- the battery is new and has 13.1V before the starter
- with the three yellow wires from the stator connected to the rectifier, the bike works fine at low revs, fails at medium and the rectifier heats up uncontrollably; with these wires disconnected from the rectifier, the bike works well at any speed, but as we know, the battery is not charged
- at idle the 3 yellow wires measure about 40V from stator
- the resistant test on stator show equal values on three wires; no ground conductivity; no open circuit on each coil
- apparently all the masses are well connected.
Any idea what it could be causing this recurrent failure of the rectifier?
Note: traditional G6Y carburetor engine with electronic rectifier and CDI, year 2010.
Did you find out the problem?
Yes. I replaced the stator. And again the rectifier. Conclusion: the broken stator was damaging the rectifier. Always learning 😅
I enjoyed the video, but I perform a final forward and reverse bias test between the positive and negative terminals. Between the pos and neg terminals, the unit will still conduct in one direction only, but the resistance is approximately double what was measured checking the single diodes. Also, I would have liked to see the results of forward bias vs reverse bias on the Yamaha and Polaris units. I believe the units will still show resistance near the same value during forward bias, for both the pos and neg terminals, but will indicate a resistance during reverse bias that will be appx. the same for all three legs, but the resistance may be higher or lower than the forward bias test. Still it is a process of elimination. The best test is with a known good unit. If you install a known good unit and it works, then the old unit was the faulty culprit. Most owners just don't have a spare unit on the shelf to test with.
You sir, are one intelligent cookie
I have a 2018 Yamaha 450 yfz I am Jaden 12 V at the starter and the starter is good but it doesn’t turn over and then at the relay the cable for the starter up at 12 V and it starts
I’ve got a single jack, 4-terminal version from an old Yamaha golf cart. How are these types tested?
Brilliantly explained and in such a professional way - thank you! 👍😎
2004 softail harley davidson motorcycle, Ignition fuse isn't testing / terminal, hard starting frist got it, ran good ,seen cut off, now nothing. Rusting.
Thanks i learn alot from this today because i got problem on my bike but this help alot
Excellent and helps me understand my Royal Enfield challenge right now - thanks!
so what would be the more common type of failures on these, if the diodes fail on the forward bias portion what would be symptom? and if they fail on the reverse bias test, what would be a symptom? i'm thinking one overcharges the battery and one undercharges it
wow. very interesting. thanks. I tested a suzuki GSXr750, it reads just over .6 volts when i do the forward biast test.. one of the diodes failed the test when testong positive sode of regulator/rectifier
Have u seen the plugs melting at the rectifier and stator
Lionel trains run on low variable voltage AC, which could be used to test a Regulator Rectifier.
Excellent guys thank you !
Bloody hell, no wonder r/r are difficult to test.Test stator & connection/burnt wires. If ok r/r fault..Great video.Thankyou.
so cool.
can u explain the issue about how much current u can take from the device acoording the speed/rev of the motor/flywhell
Can you test the output when hooked up
Will a rectifier if bad not give spark to the spark plugs ?
I got a 2021 Honda Pioneer 1000-5.
When I plug in the rectifier it pulls the motor down and eventually making it stall. I can unplug it and it runs as it should. So I tested the rectifier as you showed how to for a Honda and with my meter neg lead on the positive
And positive on each point and it was in the range of .122. And with the meter positive lead on the neg while you test point it was in the range of .521. (Any help will be much appreciated)!! Also I test the battery when it do run and it shows 13.8 bolts..
Amazing video superb explanation! Thanks john
Hi can i ask how to test the voltage regulator of side by side 2014 kawasaki teryx 800 efi ?thanks.
Partzilla does NOT allow us to search for parts by specific model for the 2021 Yamaha Side By sides. They say they are waiting for Yamaha (their parts competitor) to provide parts numbers. ALTHOUGH you can find those parts if you search for them individually by manufacture part number. You can't have it both ways. Fix your model listings for parts that you obviously stock or we will purchase them elsewhere.
My regulator is not controlling the voltage. My battery is being overcharged. All diodes seem to work. I dont know if i should buy a new r
or try to fix my current one
Great video, thx a lot
Do you have a video testing with scope???
I have a 1999 Yamaha road star when regulator went bad the bike shut off and had no power the main fuse was blown
Where can I get a set of leads like yours for my multimeter? Those things look handy as hell!
Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
My bike wont rev up since fitting a new stator and pick up. Any ideas please?
I'd like to see this test with the newer R1 rectifier that hsa only one plug.
I done this test on my 2012 honda trx500 an getting a reading of 4.70 4.75 on every connection on the grey does that mean it's go thanks martin
Can a bad regulator cause loss of power while out riding. My 1999 RK HD will start and ride for 2to 6 miles then lose power after a 15 wait will start up when dies after a few miles. Greatly appreciate any advise. Thank you all.
My 1996 Harley-Davidson, FXDS (Dyna Glide Convertable) has a charging circuit problem. I removed the battery which checked good. None of the HD dealers will work on bikes older than 15 years old or bikes built before 2000. I believe I know where the rectifier/regulator is mounted. I do have the bike’s service manual which doesn’t give a parts location! Give me some help, please.
Hello. Negative lead on positive side I get following reading : .553,.553,.544
Positive lead on negative side : .557,.521,.551.
Are the small differences indicating faulty rectifier?
Thanks!
can you use a 2 phase to replace a 3 phase rectifer on rzr 900 2015
While the vehicle is running you will have high AC volts (35-40VAC) present if your voltage regulator / rectifier is bad.
What side is the Hot on a regulator
How to wire it to single phase stator?
If this is bad, would it make it so you dont havd spark?
Im having power steering light come on sporadically a 2020 polaris sportsman 850. I know my stator, battery and relay are good. Could the regulator be causing this? This is the only symptom I have.
can I use 2022 General 50A regulator on 2014 rzr800s?
My 2017 yz450f regulator rectifier has 2 wires coming out of it a red and black one, no matter what ohm setting i put the multimeter on it shows “0L “ but on the other wires that it plugs into “the stator connnection it shows a reading on the “20 ohm” setting.
does that means that could be the cause of my NO SPARK situation , keep in mind this bike doesnt have a battery
we are manufacturer of voltage regulator , and this way test diodes or mosfet work or no. and if you need lower temperature when it work , you should choose mosfet regulator.
But then we get a slightly higher temperature in the stator of the generator. Is it?
If mine is reading "OL" on every prong, do you think the regulator is bad?
Does it matter if all the forward bias readings on the positive side are 0.1 when all the readings on the negative side are 0.45? In other words, should the readings be close to the same for both the positive and negative? This is with a Honda rectifier.
I just checked mine and on my 2017 cbr500r
- they are 537/536/522
+ they are 130/129/129
I also found oil in mine
Will a rectifier keep a machine from starting?
the issue being in philippines. Some sellers do not state if mosfet or non mosfet and bad designs (most likely class c fakes). 2 failed installed burnt out. One was not mosfet i did not use yet. Worried it would not be good for new style batteries. Can i use the non mosfet for temp use until i buy a real RR from you? shipping time args
Is .47 still okay or the rectifier needs to be replaced?
Do u guys sell a voltage regulator for a 2007 polaris sportsman 450
Hi i have a gy6 125cc kick start dirtbike. & want to.be able to push start button. What do i need to do thanks
Hi guys I have triumph Tiger 800 2013 and it keeps blowing my rectifier 5 of then now within 5min of running bike the stator was checked and it was fine but i have replace it anyway and same thing happened again I have been buying the MOSFET one as they supposedly ment to be more reliable but for some reason are not for me. Am I using the wrong RR? Or have problem simpler else? Just to mention the battery is new on the bike .
Thanks in advance
Outstanding video. Thank you.
What is the model number of your meter?
Great vid I have a Yamaha 2016 yxz 1000r I think this might be my problem. The fuse on my starter relay keeps blowing out. When I replace it it starts for about 3-5 seconds then dies. I know that it can be a lot of things but could the rectifier caused this problem to happen? Trying to figure it out any help would be appreciated🤞
sir how bout using a analog multi tester how to use it on checking on a busted rectifier or checking the ac current of the stator?
Does anyone know if a 2017 regulator is the same as 2018 can am comander can am showed a different part number but I can find one for a 18 anywhere
How test the sea doo. ???
Would the regulator stop the front of my bike from getting power? My winch and starter solenoid are getting power, I just don't know why the neutral lights and starter button aren't working. The bike just died while riding and we replaced the battery which did nothing
&,what about generators..?...
Having owned a number of Hondas and having run into various issues with the charging systems, I’ve had to educate myself on the diagnostic testing methods. One question that I’ve never found an answer to has been the overheating of the stator/rr connectors which gets so hot it melts the plastic housings of the spade connectors- the bike in question being a 1998 VFR800. Figuring that either the stator or the RR or both were at fault, I’ve replaced both at one time or another. But I’m wondering if a dead battery caused by leaving the key on and then having to bump start the bike could be the culprit? My thought was that the stator is sending approximately 55ac volts to the RR trying to charge a low/dead battery (plus perhaps having a poor connection at the plug) could be causing resistance at the connector creating so much heat that it melts the plastic and over heats the spade connectors? On the VFR in question, the 3 yellow wires from the stator appear to be 16ga. wire connecting to 12ga. wire from the RR. A recent upgrade has been a new style Mosfet RR and a automotive style connectors.
Yea cheers mate , this 2 years after you posted was sort of helpful ,
because Ive wondered at times the very same thing .. maybe one day , we’ll find out .
I replaced 3 r/rectifiers for my scooter .it is 4 pin r/rectifier . But one is getting overcharging 18v . the others Not getting voltage to battery . How would i find the perfect one
Pls help
My r1 2010 isn’t powering on at all, no lights, not even fuel pump kicking on after sitting during winter. I checked fuses, 2 new battery’s. Could this cause it? Please help
It worked perfectly before just in January this year. I don’t know much about bikes but could it be a ground issue as well? Since it’s not getting power at all
This is a good video. Regulators are more complex than rectifiers. You can not test them by an MM
Hello, Nice vid. What do think the #1 reason is, for R/R to go bad? I don't have much faith, in the made in china R/R . But I just came across a 1982 Nos Suzuki R/R , & I'm inclined to replace this Made in China, with the Japanese model.
I need help, I have 06 gsxr 750 that will crank but not start. I've put a brand knew shorai battery in it to be sure, lights come on, fuel pump, relay clicks, starter is turning motor over, checked the fuses under the seat, it's doing everything its supposed too besides running. The battery in it before was dead when I hooked it to the charger. I rode the bike yesterday. Think it's the reg/rec?
Did you confirm you're getting spark?
Very cool video. You helped me a lot with my R1 problem.
What year bro ? My 14 is like draining the hell out the battery. The yuasa one that came with it progressively got harder to start and the. Eventually would power dash and lights but wouldn’t turn over the engine
@@rollathegawdchild4339 them bikes u have to always have bike on a Battery tender . It requires a good crank. My friend always has issues when he does not use his bike for few weeks
Very good information.
Does anyone know if the rectifier that comes on the newer Africa twins(mine is a 2017) is a mosfet type?
You can measure it yourself: ruclips.net/video/Q87JmhE5LVk/видео.html
can the Regulator Rectifier cause power issues (that's not related to
battery) ? .. for example my bike has dim lights that get brighter as
RPM increase and rough idle problems .. ive "pinned" the stator and
that seems OK and my battery does charge (new battery)
best regulator oem? long lasting twill
Are these 3 phase or single phase. How do uknow if a alternator and a RR unit is 3 phase or single phase. Thanks
What can a faulty regulator rectifier cause
Thank you for the video. My Polaris Ranger 2014 900 crew is not charging appropriately. The stator appears to be producing the correct AC current. I have removed the regulator and tested (part# 4013978). When testing both the + and - lead of the RR, I ONLY get a reading (.413) on all three phases when testing the positive side of the RR..... touching negative meter lead to positive RR lead. All other test show .OL. I believe this confirms the RR has failed?
If ALL the other tests show open, then yes, it's probably bad.
Great episode about this head cracking problem!! Luckily my Bandit1200 doesnt have this because she is using a piggyback alternator instead with all the diode and circuitry within it like a car system!
Why so lucky you ever priced one of those alternators?🤔
The Polaris
regulator rectifier that you test in the video is oem part # 4016868, my question is, should it be the same result on polaris regulator rectifier oem part # 4015230?
When I measure my 4015230 the result is:
meter black to battery + = 0.480 on all 3 wires.
meter black to battery - = OL
meter red to battery + = OL
meter red to battery - = OL.
Is my rectifier 4015230 bad or is it just a polaris rectifier? :-)
When im measuring in forward bias I'm getting 502,495,493? and reverse I'm getting 125, 125,126? From a can am Outlander 1000 do you happen to know what there supposed to be measured at?
Hi, I have the same values as you. So is it ok or bad??? thank you for answer
When you Reversed Biased the Diodes why was the DMM reading OL for open loop? Is that because there's too much Resistance and nothing is going through?
The reverse bias diode should show on open loop as it's function is to only let current flow in one direction.
I have two yellow wires coming from my stator is there a specific order going to the regulator rectifier
Since you didn't get an answer from partzilla, no - there is no specific order for the yellow wires from the stator to the rec/reg
Thank you steve
hello everyone!! who faced such problem? Loss of power on a 2013 Sea Doo GTX 155, the battery is new, the starter relay is normal, what could be the cause, could it be the voltage regulator, or another reason?
Great video John, thank you very much!
In short, I understand with the variations in design it is hard to be exact. The RR I'm testing from my son's Triumph 675 is similar to the Yamaha one you demonstrated. Doing a positive-bias off the negative terminal I get 0.464V off each of the rectifier pins (a little lower than you note/recommend). Doing a forward-bias off the negative terminal I get .114V at the rectifier pins. Though the voltages are slightly lower, it performs as you illustrated and is bang on consistent in terms of voltage reading pin-to-pin when forward biased.
The question I have is this still considered a pass?
Did you ever get an answer to this question? I have a Honda Interstate and it reads similar to yours.
The MOSFET regulator has approx. 0.500 on one side and approx. 0.100 on the other. And that's okay.
Hi guys, anyone know what type are RR on Polaris ranger 1000 ..... series or parallel?
Also, why do you put the positive lead on the negative side and the negative lead on the positive side to test for a Forward Bias?
To forward bias the diode you must apply a positive voltage from the voltmeter on the anode side of the diode and the voltmeter negative on the cathode. The anode is the large part of the triangle and the cathode is the point that intersects the line. The vehicle battery is shown in the diagram for reference but plays no part in testing.
I still don't understand why the positive probe was put on the negative terminal though.
@@TiberiusStorm Long time ago, but if you're still wondering... When using your multimeter, there is a small current flowing from the positive to the negative leads when you measure. The symbol of a diode is an arrow. The current flows in the direction of the arrow, but not in the opposite way. If you look at the drawing at 3:24, you would have to place the positive lead to the negative side of the regulator and the negative lead to one of the 3 wires of the regulator, to be able to measure the diode (being around 0.5v). If the diodes are good and you reverse your leads (negative to negative, and positive to one of the 3 wires), you should measure nothing/endless.
Hi.. if the voltage about 14.9v when the engine is running. Is it normal. Kawasaki zx6r
Couldn't you get your machine running and unhook your battery and then just test the current between + and -?
do all bikes have a smoother i don't rember seeing one on mine
Hello all. Looking for a rectifying regulator for a 2011 Big Bear Chopper Sled 300. I wanted to know if this is the one that fits. If not, can anyone help me find the one I need.? Thank you in advance.
Buenas tardes, disculpen la pregunta algún distribuidor de partzilla en el pais de México que con facilidad podamos adquirir sus partes, ya que nos sale muy costoso mandarlas a pedir, desde estados unidos. Por el pago aduanal etc. Saludos y que tengan excelente tarde.
Would make it switch change polarity