See our Everchill 11 Cubic Foot 12 Volt Refrigerator run for over 43 hours on a single Group 27 battery. Find out more about Everchill fridges at WayInterglobal.com
I did a 24 hour test. It was 85 degrees out during the day. Used a Victron BMV-712 to monitor current. I got the fridge and freezer up to temp and stable before I began the test. I also had a large piece of ice in te freezer and 4 gallons of water in the fridge to simulate it being full. It used 80AH over the 24 hour period.
Great real data. I agree it is fair to chill the unit first, that is real world use. So usage of 80 AH in 24 H is 3.3 Amps on average. Their battery is really a 70 AH wet battery, so if you stop at 1/2 capacity as recommended, thats 35 AH so 35 AH / 3.3 A = 10.6 HOURS, that is how long the real answer is, IMHO. Read my recent LOOOOONG rant. Such a misleading and invalid test they showed us... how long can a sacrificial battery keep a freezer below 32 degrees? Not cool.
The true test is to see what the actual amp hours draw is in a 24 hour period with no AC and at least 90 to 100 degree weather. RVs heat up fast because the insulation is not like your home, therefore the refrigerator will be working a lot more to keep it cool.
Hey Robert - Thanks for your interest in our testing video. This test was performed in a heat chamber that helps mimic the outside factors that can impact cooling capability.
I'm researching an upgrade to 12v compressor fridge for our RV. I was going to ask what the ambient temperature was for this test, because typical hot, or warmer summertime temperatures would increase the number of compressor cycles. But looking again, I noticed the lower displays in the 2 remote thermometers sitting atop the fridge. Looks like a 59 - 61 F degrees ambient during the whole test cycle? Really now. Guess this was made possible by use of the AC wall unit seen in the early on in the video. Thanks for conducting this testing, I can see how long it'll run with just a ~23 F degree differential in temperature. Now, could you do the testing again with ambient temperatures that reflect a typical summertime vacation? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the comment. We continuously test our products in different conditions. We will post more videos and results of these on our website and RUclips in the future. If you have specific questions about your fridge and RV, feel free to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can help you get the most out of your Everchill fridge.
Friend has this frige in her 1 year old camper. It drains fully charged (2) group 27 batts in 2-3hrs in 60deg weather. I haven't got to test any volts or amp draw yet. I was thinking the defrost cycle was killing the batts? Anyway to test when the defrost goes on & off? Thank you for the video.
The fridge would have went longer on your battery if you had had a true load in the refrigerator. It was only cooling air which made the unit short cycle and run more frequently. Glad I seen this video I have no doubt this fridge will get me through dry camping.
I live in Florida and it makes huge difference in what outside temp is on how long it will run,looks like you tested it in a nice air conditioned building,I have a 12 volt fridge in my rv
Wayne, thanks for checking out our video and leaving a comment. We did this test in our lab so the conditions are different than many scenarios out on the road. We continuously test our products in different environments and will share results here and through other channels. We'd love to collaborate with you about both our tests as well as your conditions to make sure we are maximizing product performance for all our customers. Feel free to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com.
@@JCOOK33440 Also, we don't know how many hours out of the 43 hours that the compressor was actually running. An ambient in the 60's is not realistic either.
Now add a fully stocked fridge, that gets opened 20 times a day. Plus this is a battery directly hooked to the fridge. Even with our one 100watt solar panel on the roof, we pretty much kill that battery every night when boondocking. And that’s with running the generator a bit through the day to boost it up. I did the numbers. The fridge draws about 10AH
I have the EVERCHILL WD-127FDC in my semi truck. It works really good. Today I came back to my truck after being off work for one week the batteries were low I had to get a jump my question is if I put the everchill to the zero setting is it completely off or is it still drawing some power? I do notice the lights are still on when you open the door. I have other items in my truck that may have caused the batteries to go low. The batteries are new!
Hello Kirk - Thank you for reaching out to Way. We are glad you think your fridge model works well. To answer your question, If it is connected and the lights are on it still can pull a small amount of power. If the thermostat is turned all the way up it may not run a lot unless it's in a hot environment. We suggest shutting down the unit completely if it will not be used for a week or more. If you have any more questions, feel free to reach out to customerservice@wayinterglobal.com. Thanks again!
We have this fridge, it will not maintain temperature. We've done several days of testing the fridge gets up to 59ﾟ and the freezer will get up to 38ﾟ but they will go all the way down to negative one on the freezer and down to about 40 on the fridge. That's with an inside temperature of about 80ﾟ inside the RV. Sadly it is 2 yeas old so no warranty
Wyatt- Sorry to hear your fridge is performing inconsistently. Please contact us as customerservice@wayinterglobal.com and our team can help troubleshoot to try to figure out what's going on.
I did a simple voltage test on mine and it is only getting 9.5v. On the other end at the battery I'm getting 13.4vI'm gonna run a test jumper wire From the battery this weekend. My fridge is wired up with 16 gauge wire you can look up on a wiring chart that that's only good for about 3.5 ft to maintain voltage. I need to step to a 8 or 10 guage wire and see if it helps.
I am purchasing a Forest River class C with this fridge in it (Magic Chef branded WD-282FWDC) and have not used it yet. While I appreciate your attempts to run a test at all, and the fact that you respond to our comments, I agree with the various experienced dry-campers who have pointed out it is not real world environmental conditions. Although you have attempted to address this in your newer video ( ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html ) which starts with items inside the fridge, opens the door (every hour?), and has the heat chamber environment set at 76 to 80 degrees, I still have several issues with this which are way more erroneous and/or misleading in THIS video: 1. Battery used: Although you taped over to hide the battery brand, you can see the part number and labeling colors, so it is easy to look it up and it is an FVP brand, model M27-7DC. This is a group 27 marine deep cycle battery (look it up at Menards for one). It says right on it: 170 is the RC rating, meaning a Reserve Capacity is 170 minute; standard formulas equate this to 70.8 AmpHour battery (AH=RC / 60 * 25). This is a 71 AH battery, NOT a 100 AH battery. The other video does not show the battery but also states it is a 100 AH battery. Ok so this actually goes to your favor - the battery used is less capacity than you stated. But you also replied that the group size makes no difference - NOT TRUE, a group 24 by the same brand is clearly 140 for RC so it has even less capacity. This simply starts off with a lack of credibility. 2. As many have stated, lead acid batteries in actual use should not be taken down past 50% charge which is around 12.1v. Ok so before the test at 0:45 (ruclips.net/video/QUHwxxwNuOQ/видео.html) the battery should be fully charged but the readout shows it at 10.9v, (and the freezer is at 59 degrees). This voltage makes no sense, it should be fully charged at 12.7v or so. I can only assume you had to charge the battery up before you started the actual test. Then an unknown time later you start the test at 0:56 and we can't see the starting temperature but within the first minute if you pause it, the voltage is 11.9v and the temperature is already at 6 degrees. There are 2 issues with this: a. You will be the first to admit it takes roughly an hour to get the freezer to this temperature, so was this battery used to do this heavy load first or another battery or?? b. Why did the test start with the voltage at 11.9v and not 12.7v fully charged? Again this speaks to the invalidation of this test, it doesn't make sense. It gets worse: What are your parameters for "how long can the battery power the fridge?" test: They appear to be: how long until the freezer rises up to 32 degrees. Regardless of how low you have taken the battery voltage and damaged it - which no dry camper would do every day over and over, or even once perhaps. 3. A valid test would start with a fully charged battery (12.7v) and stop when the wet battery is at 50% or 12.1v. PERIOD. And you start at 11.9 and don't care how low it goes. Then the time lapse shows the voltage does not really drop much and stays mostly above 11.5v for 24 hours - makes no sense. Then once the freezer temperature starts to rise, the voltage stays mostly around 11.0v but bounces as low as 9.5v. until you quit at 43 hours because the freezer is at 31 degrees. You freeze the image at 1:27 showing the freezer at 31 degrees and the voltage at 9.48v. Now do this DAILY in your boondocking camper driving the backroads of Baja and see how long your battery lasts. And don't tell me you need 2 batteries. The entire premise of this test is bogus and MISLEADING. Sure it is factual but for one I think your voltage readout is suspect, OR did the battery drain down from 12.7v during the time you had a high load the first hour, and then it was at 11.9v and slowly drifted down for the 1 to 2 amp draw. Battery abuse at the very least. I think it is fair to have a test that starts with a chilled freezer and fridge, assuming you only do that once up front, THEN have a fully charged battery to start the test, then STOP at 12.1v. And tell us the ACCURATE AmpHours of the battery used. We are trying to collect actual data to design our systems. And NO I don't want to come to Elkhart, but this needs explaining. I can't believe I typed all of this. Regardless I think your product is fine, but don't poison it with bogus half-ass videos, your audience perhaps is more intelligent than you think we are? I am ready to use your product and I figure it will need 7-8 amps for the first hour to chill (which I will do without using my battery power to do so), then cycle an average of 2 amps from then on. Opening the door more and being in hotter climates would bump the duty cycle so maybe the 2 amps is 3? 4? So my guess is the real test results would be: This 70 AH batter has 35 AH usable to draw down to 12.1v; so I have 35 AH to use, at a best case of 2 Amps per Hour, it would last for 17 hours. Best case. Then derate it more for opening the door and in a hot climate so maybe 3 A per hour it would last for 12 hours. Enlighten me where I'm wrong. This is sloppy, I hope your engineering team reads this and comments, there probably is not much they could have done to make it use less power, and I agree it is pretty efficient, but this issue is not going away for the dry camping crowd. Thanks.
To make matters worse, the conversion from Reserve Capacity to Amp Hours is not really accurate. Reserve Capacity is rated as how many minutes you sustain a fixed current (25 amps) until the battery voltage is down to 10.5v. This voltage is WAY below the healthy 50% charge value of 12.2v. This means trying to say their test battery is a 70 AH battery is generous, you don't have near that much. That is what makes the LiFePO4 batteries so nice, and so awesome to calculate with. Their AH is true, 100 AH is like 95% usable AND it maintains a full 12.7 (whatever) voltage the entire time!
Way Interglobal Everchill WS95RDC RV Refrigerator / Freezer - 12 Volt / DC Only - 3.3 Cubic Feet the fan is not coming on. I can hear it trying to. is there a defrost line on this fridge? do you have any suggestions?
Hello Terry - we would like to discuss these issues with you further. Please contact us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com or call (574) 971-4490 and ask for the customer service. Thank you!
I'm considering the 4.5Cu Ft model for my RV. I just recievd the installtion instructions from your company so I could pre-read them. It says it only needs 1 inch of space all the way around, that's no problem, but then it says its designed as a "Free Standing" fridge. Most smaller RV have cabinets that these mount into up off the floor like my Sprinter. Is that going to be a problem for some reason?? I'm sure I could probably figure a way to bolt it down to the plywood cainet bottom like the old one but would be nice it had some sort of attachment system to keep it from moving.
Hello - The 4.5 model does not come with or have any mounting hardware. You can either use a seatbelt type strap or install it like the one being removed.
The video never seems to show the frig door being opened occasionally for food access. This real-world action would greatly affect electric usage. Perhaps retest with door opening every 30 minutes for 10 seconds to replicate usage and see how long the battery lasts.
We live in a hurricane zone and would like to run this on batteries if the power goes out. I’m thinking of running it on one deep cycle marine battery while another charges via solar panel, then switch out when needed. What would you recommend?
I have this fridge in a 2021 forest river travel trailer . I trust the batteries and also have solar . I want to hook up and be ready to roll 12-14 hours before leaving town but my driveway is on a slope. Do I Have to be concerned with running the refrigerator if its not level?. I would say its about a 4 degree grade.
You can just insert something under the fridge to make it leveled , I guess you drive way slope is not that sharp slope so piece of flat wood would fix the issue .
At what percent did you take the battery down to? If it is a simple Lead Acid/AGM, you can only discharge to 50%.....I see the voltage well under 12V during discharge so that leads me to believe you are not using a Lithium battery. I have many friends with these 12v RV refrigerators and even with a larger group 31 battery they are barely getting through the night. Not doubting your test, but it just doesn't seem realistic.
Hi Roy - Yes, we discharged the battery below 50%. And it was not Lithium. Group size has nothing to do with capacity. We used a 100amph deep cycle marine grade FLA battery.
@@wayinterglobal7898 "Marine Grade"...was this a true deep cycle battery or was it a dual use, starter/ deep cycle? If it has a high CCA rating it is not a true deep cycle and it will not deliver the long term current needs.
Something doesnt seem to add up. Just asking. Stand alone that is a good video on a single dedicated battery, but we dont know what type of battery. If that is the only battery in your camper and its a lead acid,or even 2 leada acids like mine and lead acids can be damaged when taken below 50% charge which is going from 12.6+ to 12.06vbc then your battery or this battery is going to be damaged. The video starts below 12v at about 11.6vdc. Technically your already dead. So on the basis of how long it can run on a stand alone battery that doesnt operate anything else in your RV or start your vehicle this may be true. AGM batteries go down to 11.66 and damaged and LifePo down to 12 and damaged. This is from a chart on a Renogy web page. So how long will it run until stopping on a single stand alone battery, maybe this is good info. Not my scenario.
Question. I've new travel trailer RV with 12v fridge, but my battery drained in 5 to 6 hours. The fridge is 13.5 amp and my battery is lead acid deep cycle group 24, 685ca, 140rc. What's the problem, my battery or the fridge?
43 hours sealed is an hr of making it cold then 42 keeping it cold. Add little kids to that equation who keep opening the fridge and you'll get maybe 8 hours!
Thanks for the comment. In our recent video showing our 12v fridge in testing conditions we do open and close the fridge once per hour during the day to simulate real world usage conditions. Again we saw great performance on a single battery. Check out this new video and let us know what you think.
My plan was to setup a sprinter van with this fridge. I only have one MacBook air m1 and iPhone 12 pro max and ipad pro and a GoPro hero 9 with 3 batteries. Will this work with single battery and 💯 watt solar????
Nabeel- Appreciate the question. The answer may depend on your battery type - what group size? Right off the bat, though, we typically recommend at least a 120W solar panel to run our 12V fridge so adding on the phones, computers, and cameras might be stretching it. Feel free to reach out to web@wayinterglobal.com with more specifics around your battery type and we can make sure you've got everything you need.
What gauge wire are you running for that test? We have a 2020 Wildwood with this fridge Will not stay on any setting Reset and set to 4... 15 minutes later the light is flashing again Keeps getting ice build up in freezer on back wall but not keeping Yeti ice packs frozen? Very frustrating
Steve- We used 10 gauge wire for our test. Our customer service team should be able to help you deal with some of the problems you're having. Can you email us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com or fill out this form: www.wayinterglobal.com/pages/contact-us so we can get in touch with you?
Thanks, believe it or not, I discovered the issue... Our Dealer neglected to tighten the bolts to hold the cables in place! So not getting good contact. I removed cables cleaned them and attached properly. Ice packs completely frozen and Fridge very cold within 4 hours. Thanks again
@@dmsrich the main ones to the front mounted deep cycle battery The terminals were touching the posts but not secured Cleaned with wire brush added anti corrosion and tightened down. Works perfectly. We just did a 4 day trip in the Smokey Mtns. And Absolutely No issues.
Joe, thanks for the question. For battery maintenance, we suggest a minimum of a 50-watt solar panel, like the Elite 50W panel on our site. If you want to use the 12V refrigerator off-grid with no shore power you will need a minimum of a 120-watt solar panel and at least one deep cycle (marine battery). Additional batteries can extend your off-grid camping time. Let us know if you have any other questions.
@@arabcampers9554While it depends on your setup (how much power demand you have coming from other appliances or electronics) and external conditions, 200W and 4 batteries should be sufficient for powering your fridge while you are away from shore power
@@wayinterglobal7898 we have a Cannon fridge in our new Wolf pup, so I have a 50watt solar panel on the roof, plus on the ground, a 200 watt suitcase panels 2 12v deep cycle, total 130 amp hrs. So we ran lights, awning light, water pump, pump heater, just to do the dishes, a bit of the radio mostly at night, and my batteries, lasted only Friday nite and until Saturday, early until the nite. So was thinking of buying, 2 6volt golf cart batteries, at 215 amp hrs each, would that be enough for 4 days of camping, with no issues.
@@garysaumure9299 Gary, we'll get this question in front of our product team to confirm and get back to you soon on. Would you be able to email us at web@wayinterglobal.com so we can respond to you directly or get any other information we'd need to help you validate this setup?
Hello Ruth - Your refrigerator will use battery at all times, both when plugged in to shore power and while charging with solar or other power solutions.
Hi Dat! Our fridges are available for sale on our website: www.wayinterglobal.com/collections/refrigerators. The 11 cubic foot fridge that is featured in this video is also available on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Everchill-Refrigerator-Capacity-Stainless-Outlook/dp/B099GSWK5D/
yea without opening the door sure cut that down to 1/3 so 15 hours or less if your constnatly going in it and when its hot out about 12 hours your looking at one car batt
Hello Jerry - Thank you for your interest in our products and our testing process/results. We took some of these recommendations into account and did another test here: ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html If you have further testing questions or concerns, we welcome you to our test facility in Elkhart or would love if you'd speak to one of our product specialists. Please reach out to us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com for more information about our process. Thank you!
Not sure this is accurate. I have same fridge on 4 - 100watt panels and 4 - 29 series 100 amp hour deep cycle batteries and will not run for more than week and a half. No other load on battery system.
Jim, we appreciate you checking out our video and we stand by our results in this and our other tests. With every setup being different, and ambient conditions varying, we expect slight variations in performance. We welcome you to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can talk more about the performance you're getting and if we have any ideas to help extend this even further for you.
You used a deep cycle battery that has about 105 amp hours of capacity. That type of battery usually has about 50-60% usable capacity. So that would be about 60 amp hours of usable power. Your refrigerator is probably using 8amps or more per hour if you are running the fridge and freezer together. 60 amps of power at 8 amps an hour is about 8 hrs of capacity. Please explain how you managed to get 368 amp hours of capacity out of a battery that can support about 60amp hours? Even a $3000 lithium battery can not support that usage time. If you want people to believe your test post the stats and calculations to prove your test. I’m happy to be wrong and corrected.
Liam- Thank you for the comment and we appreciate your knowledge and passion for RV appliances. Regarding your calculations, the variable that is different than what you estimate is the active current draw of the fridge. You use 8 amps per hour as a constant current draw over the course of your calculations. However, in reality, the fridge only operates between 6 and 8 amps during the initial start-up/cool-down period and maybe during an auto-defrost cycle. For most of the time, the fridge is idle or in a low draw state to re-cool during which, the current draw is typically below 1 and maybe up to about 4 amps. It is this high-efficiency period of low current draw that allows the Everchill 12V to last so long on a single battery. This video captures the exact performance that we see under these conditions. We will soon be posting some additional testing videos showing the Everchill 12V in warmer conditions and with frequent opening and closing of the fridge to demonstrate how this would perform in different scenarios we know our owners experience. We hope you come back to check these out as well. If you have more questions or comments, please write to us at web@wayinterglobal.com
Way, Liam is right. I've a new 2022 travel trailer, the fridge is a 12v ge 13.5amp, but it's running at 8amp, I'm using a single 12v lead acid deep cycle group 24, 685mca, 140rc and run for 6 to 7 hours, no more. Just last week I add 2nd battery and work now 12 hours, no more. Next step I'm going to upgraded to 3 batteries AGM with 220ah each and 200w solar panel with mppt. I'll see
Hi James- you're correct, in this test we did not have any food or drink in the freezer. We have recently posted another video with tests of our 12v fridge on a battery that does have food and drinks in the fridge and freezer and see very similar results. We'd love for you to check it out and let us know what you think. Thanks
@James, there is no intention to mislead. We are clear about the conditions of this test. We have additional testing in progress and will post future videos as appropriate.
I have this fridge, this test is NOT applicable too a real world IN USE scenario. I'm not sure if this is known to them doing this or not. I have 4 100w mono panels, mppt controller, and 3 group 31 nautilus batteries... The panels are not enough nor are the batteries. I'm bringing into this 2 more 100w panels and 1 more battery hoping this, being used for a full time application works. That test does not involve someone opening it like people normally do, having something in there other than water, defrost cycles (over 8 amps btw), that fridge being assisted also by being in a controlled setting in a room with ac vs being in somones rig with 2 1/2 insulation on the back side with the sun on it for hrs, where you live, season with available sun etc. Etc... Not cool (pun intended). Being this is what it is for cost, then being in a position to be forced too find the hard way much more has too be spent to run it effectively is really an unfortunate and expensive lesson. Don't even bother with the video as it's highly misleading and inappropriate.
Evan, we appreciate you checking out our video and leaving your feedback. We stand by our results in this and our other tests and feel that we are clear about the test conditions we are demonstrating. With every vehicle set up being different, and as you note, ambient conditions varying, we expect slight variations in performance. We test our products in different settings and are always looking to find additional ways to measure our performance. As we record and release more of these tests, we hope you come back and check these out as well. And as always, we welcome you to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can talk more about the performance you're getting and if we have any ideas to help extend this even further for you.
@@wayinterglobal7898 hello, you are clear about the test conditions but unless those conditions are actual using conditions, I'm not sure it's functional for someone choosing what too buy being there gonna actually have to open it several times a day, eventually enter that defrost cycle and contend ultimately with the risk of loosing food. It is a critical factor and highly relevant, particularly if your full timing. Your video caused me too make a decision from yours an another, honestly had I considered the conditions vs the reality of usage conditions, I may not have. I will say this, your intervention is quite impossible as it pulls more that the 3 batteries can maintain for any relevant period so more is needed, and since more is needed, panels are needed to charge them, not much else can be done here. I insulated the wall behind it prior too install, and all clearances are as required. I'm left to deal with this and there aren't any options shy of the 2 above. It is what it is.... Consequences.
Skeptical of this claim based on experience with similar WD-282FWDC 11 cu ft model based on realistic 8 amp draw and usual 75+% duty cycle. Nearly 2 full days (43 hours) claimed here is more than twice my experience. Practical use in my RV requires daily 3 hour generator run to replenish my (much larger) dual 6 volt 220 Ah batteries while avoiding deep discharge premature battery damage. Ideal dry camping solution involves daily 1000 watt inverter generator recharge for said 3 hours. Anything less is wishful thinking. Even 230W solar will not anywhere near keep up. Also not impressed with automatic electronics including defrost control that is unpredictable and power hungry, nor with poor air circulation impeded by glass shelves. Duty cycle is high enough, and smallish compressor needs all the help it can get, including another small interior fan. These Danfoss clone DC compressors require minimal thermostat control circuit (read cheap, reliable). Defrost best with manual 1 hour bathroom fan timer circuit and devise clear window to observe frost buildup. Plan to eventually modify and simplify mine to this concept.
trueblue2k2- we appreciate your comments but stand by the results of this test and others we've done with our fridges, solar panels, and more. We'd be happy to have you come to our offices to participate in a future test to see the performance and results in real-time. Feel free to reach out to us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can coordinate if you'd like.
"similar WD-282FWDC" you say? I think that is the EXACT same model as this Everchill. Mine is branded by Magic Chef but same model number as well. I'm confused by "realistic 8 amp draw and usual 75+% duty cycle". Are you saying you have measured this on THIS unit? If so do you mean it drew 8 amps when compressor kicked on and was on for 75% of the time, so the average use was 6 amps? That is about twice what others have implied. If you have a 12v (obstensibly) 220Ah setup (using two 6v golf cart batteries probably) then you have a usable 110Ah until you draw down to the safe 50% charge (12.1v). So math says 110 AH / 6 A = 18.3 Hours. For example. Please correct me, it really helps us all know REAL world data. Also check out my LOOOONG rant I just posted. thanks
Absolute garbage never works. We are on full hook up brand new battery brand new rv . Thing is always blinking blue led! No dealer support or manufacturer tech support. Avoid it if you can.
@germantrader10, our team provides robust customer service and tech support. We have a number of videos on our channel and site that could help troubleshoot this for you and our team is available to speak directly to find out more and get to the heart of your issue. You can contact us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com
lol. i kinda thought the same thing. car battery specs but labeled as deep cycle. why no amp hr rating? but, i guess 43 hrs runtime is doable, if ambient temp is mild and only going into the fridge a few times a day. i can get almost 4 days on a .5 cu ft fridge and a group 31 105 ah agm. i never let my battery go below 12.0 volts. i'd imagine if I let the fridge go to the low voltage cut off I could get several more days....at the expense of a damaged battery.
I think it’s good that you responded to the people that challenged your testing. However, your responses were less than forthcoming. The problem with this test is that you failed to state all of the conditions and parameters and that allows people to properly and accurately question the results. You failed to state all of the test conditions and variables up front. That leads everyone to believe that the testing was skewed to show the best possible result, which it was. You did not even put in the effort to do a minimally fair test. Your ambient temperature was not significantly higher than what you expected the fridge to operate at, so you you presented a best case instead of worse case; you never opened the doors to fridge, again a best case scenario, who doesn’t open their fridge for 40+ hours. These two things alone, taint the results of your testing and basically make it flawed, biased and unrealistic.
Hello Marv - Thank you for your interest in our products and our testing process/results. We took some of these recommendations into account and did another test here: ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html If you have further testing questions or concerns, we welcome you to our test facility in Elkhart or would love if you'd speak to one of our product specialists. Please reach out to us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com for more information about our process. Thank you!
My brand new Keystonr 1800BH came with a Furrion LLC / Everchill 3.3 Cu Ft 12 Volt Refrigerator, WS-95RDC Style:2022302371. In 70-80 degrees full leaving space on all shelves for air flow it STRUGGLES to go below 40 on 5, 6, or 7. Items were put in days ago COLD and the unit was running for two days cold. Freeze barely works. Useless.
I did a 24 hour test. It was 85 degrees out during the day. Used a Victron BMV-712 to monitor current. I got the fridge and freezer up to temp and stable before I began the test. I also had a large piece of ice in te freezer and 4 gallons of water in the fridge to simulate it being full. It used 80AH over the 24 hour period.
We love this Bruce, thanks!
That sounds more like it, thanks
Great real data. I agree it is fair to chill the unit first, that is real world use. So usage of 80 AH in 24 H is 3.3 Amps on average. Their battery is really a 70 AH wet battery, so if you stop at 1/2 capacity as recommended, thats 35 AH so 35 AH / 3.3 A = 10.6 HOURS, that is how long the real answer is, IMHO. Read my recent LOOOOONG rant. Such a misleading and invalid test they showed us... how long can a sacrificial battery keep a freezer below 32 degrees? Not cool.
holy cow!!! 80 amps!!!
@@pilot41186 80AH...not 80 Amps
The true test is to see what the actual amp hours draw is in a 24 hour period with no AC and at least 90 to 100 degree weather. RVs heat up fast because the insulation is not like your home, therefore the refrigerator will be working a lot more to keep it cool.
Hey Robert - Thanks for your interest in our testing video. This test was performed in a heat chamber that helps mimic the outside factors that can impact cooling capability.
My insulation is.. but alas some buy cheap some buy mobile suites
I'm researching an upgrade to 12v compressor fridge for our RV. I was going to ask what the ambient temperature was for this test, because typical hot, or warmer summertime temperatures would increase the number of compressor cycles. But looking again, I noticed the lower displays in the 2 remote thermometers sitting atop the fridge. Looks like a 59 - 61 F degrees ambient during the whole test cycle? Really now. Guess this was made possible by use of the AC wall unit seen in the early on in the video. Thanks for conducting this testing, I can see how long it'll run with just a ~23 F degree differential in temperature. Now, could you do the testing again with ambient temperatures that reflect a typical summertime vacation? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the comment. We continuously test our products in different conditions. We will post more videos and results of these on our website and RUclips in the future. If you have specific questions about your fridge and RV, feel free to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can help you get the most out of your Everchill fridge.
Friend has this frige in her 1 year old camper. It drains fully charged (2) group 27 batts in 2-3hrs in 60deg weather. I haven't got to test any volts or amp draw yet. I was thinking the defrost cycle was killing the batts? Anyway to test when the defrost goes on & off? Thank you for the video.
The fridge would have went longer on your battery if you had had a true load in the refrigerator. It was only cooling air which made the unit short cycle and run more frequently. Glad I seen this video I have no doubt this fridge will get me through dry camping.
Thanks for the insight!
I live in Florida and it makes huge difference in what outside temp is on how long it will run,looks like you tested it in a nice air conditioned building,I have a 12 volt fridge in my rv
Wayne, thanks for checking out our video and leaving a comment. We did this test in our lab so the conditions are different than many scenarios out on the road. We continuously test our products in different environments and will share results here and through other channels. We'd love to collaborate with you about both our tests as well as your conditions to make sure we are maximizing product performance for all our customers. Feel free to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com.
@@wayinterglobal7898 and you killed that battery below the recommended voltage...and the freezer warmed up well before you stopped the timer...
Does your freezer get colder then 8?
@@JCOOK33440 Also, we don't know how many hours out of the 43 hours that the compressor was actually running. An ambient in the 60's is not realistic either.
Now add a fully stocked fridge, that gets opened 20 times a day. Plus this is a battery directly hooked to the fridge. Even with our one 100watt solar panel on the roof, we pretty much kill that battery every night when boondocking. And that’s with running the generator a bit through the day to boost it up. I did the numbers. The fridge draws about 10AH
I have the EVERCHILL WD-127FDC in my semi truck. It works really good. Today I came back to my truck after being off work for one week the batteries were low I had to get a jump my question is if I put the everchill to the zero setting is it completely off or is it still drawing some power? I do notice the lights are still on when you open the door.
I have other items in my truck that may have caused the batteries to go low. The batteries are new!
Hello Kirk - Thank you for reaching out to Way. We are glad you think your fridge model works well. To answer your question, If it is connected and the lights are on it still can pull a small amount of power. If the thermostat is turned all the way up it may not run a lot unless it's in a hot environment. We suggest shutting down the unit completely if it will not be used for a week or more. If you have any more questions, feel free to reach out to customerservice@wayinterglobal.com. Thanks again!
We have this fridge, it will not maintain temperature. We've done several days of testing the fridge gets up to 59ﾟ and the freezer will get up to 38ﾟ but they will go all the way down to negative one on the freezer and down to about 40 on the fridge. That's with an inside temperature of about 80ﾟ inside the RV. Sadly it is 2 yeas old so no warranty
Wyatt- Sorry to hear your fridge is performing inconsistently. Please contact us as customerservice@wayinterglobal.com and our team can help troubleshoot to try to figure out what's going on.
I did a simple voltage test on mine and it is only getting 9.5v. On the other end at the battery I'm getting 13.4vI'm gonna run a test jumper wire From the battery this weekend. My fridge is wired up with 16 gauge wire you can look up on a wiring chart that that's only good for about 3.5 ft to maintain voltage. I need to step to a 8 or 10 guage wire and see if it helps.
I am purchasing a Forest River class C with this fridge in it (Magic Chef branded WD-282FWDC) and have not used it yet. While I appreciate your attempts to run a test at all, and the fact that you respond to our comments, I agree with the various experienced dry-campers who have pointed out it is not real world environmental conditions. Although you have attempted to address this in your newer video ( ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html ) which starts with items inside the fridge, opens the door (every hour?), and has the heat chamber environment set at 76 to 80 degrees, I still have several issues with this which are way more erroneous and/or misleading in THIS video:
1. Battery used: Although you taped over to hide the battery brand, you can see the part number and labeling colors, so it is easy to look it up and it is an FVP brand, model M27-7DC. This is a group 27 marine deep cycle battery (look it up at Menards for one). It says right on it: 170 is the RC rating, meaning a Reserve Capacity is 170 minute; standard formulas equate this to 70.8 AmpHour battery (AH=RC / 60 * 25). This is a 71 AH battery, NOT a 100 AH battery. The other video does not show the battery but also states it is a 100 AH battery. Ok so this actually goes to your favor - the battery used is less capacity than you stated. But you also replied that the group size makes no difference - NOT TRUE, a group 24 by the same brand is clearly 140 for RC so it has even less capacity. This simply starts off with a lack of credibility.
2. As many have stated, lead acid batteries in actual use should not be taken down past 50% charge which is around 12.1v. Ok so before the test at 0:45 (ruclips.net/video/QUHwxxwNuOQ/видео.html) the battery should be fully charged but the readout shows it at 10.9v, (and the freezer is at 59 degrees). This voltage makes no sense, it should be fully charged at 12.7v or so. I can only assume you had to charge the battery up before you started the actual test. Then an unknown time later you start the test at 0:56 and we can't see the starting temperature but within the first minute if you pause it, the voltage is 11.9v and the temperature is already at 6 degrees. There are 2 issues with this:
a. You will be the first to admit it takes roughly an hour to get the freezer to this temperature, so was this battery used to do this heavy load first or another battery or??
b. Why did the test start with the voltage at 11.9v and not 12.7v fully charged?
Again this speaks to the invalidation of this test, it doesn't make sense.
It gets worse:
What are your parameters for "how long can the battery power the fridge?" test: They appear to be: how long until the freezer rises up to 32 degrees. Regardless of how low you have taken the battery voltage and damaged it - which no dry camper would do every day over and over, or even once perhaps.
3. A valid test would start with a fully charged battery (12.7v) and stop when the wet battery is at 50% or 12.1v. PERIOD. And you start at 11.9 and don't care how low it goes. Then the time lapse shows the voltage does not really drop much and stays mostly above 11.5v for 24 hours - makes no sense. Then once the freezer temperature starts to rise, the voltage stays mostly around 11.0v but bounces as low as 9.5v. until you quit at 43 hours because the freezer is at 31 degrees. You freeze the image at 1:27 showing the freezer at 31 degrees and the voltage at 9.48v.
Now do this DAILY in your boondocking camper driving the backroads of Baja and see how long your battery lasts. And don't tell me you need 2 batteries. The entire premise of this test is bogus and MISLEADING. Sure it is factual but for one I think your voltage readout is suspect, OR did the battery drain down from 12.7v during the time you had a high load the first hour, and then it was at 11.9v and slowly drifted down for the 1 to 2 amp draw. Battery abuse at the very least.
I think it is fair to have a test that starts with a chilled freezer and fridge, assuming you only do that once up front, THEN have a fully charged battery to start the test, then STOP at 12.1v. And tell us the ACCURATE AmpHours of the battery used. We are trying to collect actual data to design our systems.
And NO I don't want to come to Elkhart, but this needs explaining. I can't believe I typed all of this.
Regardless I think your product is fine, but don't poison it with bogus half-ass videos, your audience perhaps is more intelligent than you think we are? I am ready to use your product and I figure it will need 7-8 amps for the first hour to chill (which I will do without using my battery power to do so), then cycle an average of 2 amps from then on. Opening the door more and being in hotter climates would bump the duty cycle so maybe the 2 amps is 3? 4?
So my guess is the real test results would be: This 70 AH batter has 35 AH usable to draw down to 12.1v; so I have 35 AH to use, at a best case of 2 Amps per Hour, it would last for 17 hours. Best case. Then derate it more for opening the door and in a hot climate so maybe 3 A per hour it would last for 12 hours.
Enlighten me where I'm wrong. This is sloppy, I hope your engineering team reads this and comments, there probably is not much they could have done to make it use less power, and I agree it is pretty efficient, but this issue is not going away for the dry camping crowd. Thanks.
To make matters worse, the conversion from Reserve Capacity to Amp Hours is not really accurate. Reserve Capacity is rated as how many minutes you sustain a fixed current (25 amps) until the battery voltage is down to 10.5v. This voltage is WAY below the healthy 50% charge value of 12.2v. This means trying to say their test battery is a 70 AH battery is generous, you don't have near that much. That is what makes the LiFePO4 batteries so nice, and so awesome to calculate with. Their AH is true, 100 AH is like 95% usable AND it maintains a full 12.7 (whatever) voltage the entire time!
Way Interglobal Everchill WS95RDC RV Refrigerator / Freezer - 12 Volt / DC Only - 3.3 Cubic Feet
the fan is not coming on. I can hear it trying to. is there a defrost line on this fridge? do you have any suggestions?
Hello Terry - we would like to discuss these issues with you further. Please contact us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com or call (574) 971-4490 and ask for the customer service. Thank you!
I'm considering the 4.5Cu Ft model for my RV. I just recievd the installtion instructions from your company so I could pre-read them. It says it only needs 1 inch of space all the way around, that's no problem, but then it says its designed as a "Free Standing" fridge. Most smaller RV have cabinets that these mount into up off the floor like my Sprinter. Is that going to be a problem for some reason?? I'm sure I could probably figure a way to bolt it down to the plywood cainet bottom like the old one but would be nice it had some sort of attachment system to keep it from moving.
Hello - The 4.5 model does not come with or have any mounting hardware. You can either use a seatbelt type strap or install it like the one being removed.
you can also try AC to DC 12v
Battery Amps?
The video never seems to show the frig door being opened occasionally for food access. This real-world action would greatly affect electric usage. Perhaps retest with door opening every 30 minutes for 10 seconds to replicate usage and see how long the battery lasts.
We live in a hurricane zone and would like to run this on batteries if the power goes out. I’m thinking of running it on one deep cycle marine battery while another charges via solar panel, then switch out when needed. What would you recommend?
Hello - Increase the battery bank capacity and the solar array and hook it up to the battery bank. This will help!
I have this fridge in a 2021 forest river travel trailer . I trust the batteries and also have solar . I want to hook up and be ready to roll 12-14 hours before leaving town but my driveway is on a slope. Do I Have to be concerned with running the refrigerator if its not level?. I would say its about a 4 degree grade.
Spence - on a 4 degree grade, you should not have any issues running the fridge. Happy travels.
You can just insert something under the fridge to make it leveled , I guess you drive way slope is not that sharp slope so piece of flat wood would fix the issue .
At what percent did you take the battery down to? If it is a simple Lead Acid/AGM, you can only discharge to 50%.....I see the voltage well under 12V during discharge so that leads me to believe you are not using a Lithium battery. I have many friends with these 12v RV refrigerators and even with a larger group 31 battery they are barely getting through the night. Not doubting your test, but it just doesn't seem realistic.
Hi Roy - Yes, we discharged the battery below 50%. And it was not Lithium. Group size has nothing to do with capacity. We used a 100amph deep cycle marine grade FLA battery.
@@wayinterglobal7898 "Marine Grade"...was this a true deep cycle battery or was it a dual use, starter/ deep cycle? If it has a high CCA rating it is not a true deep cycle and it will not deliver the long term current needs.
Something doesnt seem to add up. Just asking. Stand alone that is a good video on a single dedicated battery, but we dont know what type of battery. If that is the only battery in your camper and its a lead acid,or even 2 leada acids like mine and lead acids can be damaged when taken below 50% charge which is going from 12.6+ to 12.06vbc then your battery or this battery is going to be damaged. The video starts below 12v at about 11.6vdc. Technically your already dead. So on the basis of how long it can run on a stand alone battery that doesnt operate anything else in your RV or start your vehicle this may be true. AGM batteries go down to 11.66 and damaged and LifePo down to 12 and damaged. This is from a chart on a Renogy web page. So how long will it run until stopping on a single stand alone battery, maybe this is good info. Not my scenario.
Where can i buy thir refrigerator?
Why did mine drain 2 batteries and it’s 53 degrees outside?
Question. I've new travel trailer RV with 12v fridge, but my battery drained in 5 to 6 hours. The fridge is 13.5 amp and my battery is lead acid deep cycle group 24, 685ca, 140rc. What's the problem, my battery or the fridge?
Hello - Our refrigerator runs at 4 to 5 amps, our guess would be the batteries might need to be looked at or even replaced.
43 hours sealed is an hr of making it cold then 42 keeping it cold. Add little kids to that equation who keep opening the fridge and you'll get maybe 8 hours!
Thanks for the comment. In our recent video showing our 12v fridge in testing conditions we do open and close the fridge once per hour during the day to simulate real world usage conditions. Again we saw great performance on a single battery. Check out this new video and let us know what you think.
My plan was to setup a sprinter van with this fridge. I only have one MacBook air m1 and iPhone 12 pro max and ipad pro and a GoPro hero 9 with 3 batteries. Will this work with single battery and 💯 watt solar????
Nabeel- Appreciate the question. The answer may depend on your battery type - what group size? Right off the bat, though, we typically recommend at least a 120W solar panel to run our 12V fridge so adding on the phones, computers, and cameras might be stretching it. Feel free to reach out to web@wayinterglobal.com with more specifics around your battery type and we can make sure you've got everything you need.
What gauge wire are you running for that test?
We have a 2020 Wildwood with this fridge
Will not stay on any setting
Reset and set to 4... 15 minutes later the light is flashing again
Keeps getting ice build up in freezer on back wall but not keeping Yeti ice packs frozen?
Very frustrating
Steve- We used 10 gauge wire for our test. Our customer service team should be able to help you deal with some of the problems you're having. Can you email us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com or fill out this form: www.wayinterglobal.com/pages/contact-us so we can get in touch with you?
Thanks, believe it or not, I discovered the issue...
Our Dealer neglected to tighten the bolts to hold the cables in place!
So not getting good contact.
I removed cables cleaned them and attached properly.
Ice packs completely frozen and Fridge very cold within 4 hours.
Thanks again
@@stevevetter8045 Great to hear! Thanks for letting us know.
@@stevevetter8045 which cables are you referring to? Mine will not get cold.
@@dmsrich the main ones to the front mounted deep cycle battery
The terminals were touching the posts but not secured
Cleaned with wire brush added anti corrosion and tightened down.
Works perfectly.
We just did a 4 day trip in the Smokey Mtns. And Absolutely No issues.
Everchill = frost-free (like a modern house fridge). Furrion = manual defrost.
What size solar panel would you need to keep the basic 12v marine battery that comes with a camper charged
Joe, thanks for the question. For battery maintenance, we suggest a minimum of a 50-watt solar panel, like the Elite 50W panel on our site. If you want to use the 12V refrigerator off-grid with no shore power you will need a minimum of a 120-watt solar panel and at least one deep cycle (marine battery). Additional batteries can extend your off-grid camping time. Let us know if you have any other questions.
@@wayinterglobal7898 I'm thinking about 200w solar and 4 deep cycles batteries as I stay long in the wild .or should I bigger than 200w solar ?
@@arabcampers9554While it depends on your setup (how much power demand you have coming from other appliances or electronics) and external conditions, 200W and 4 batteries should be sufficient for powering your fridge while you are away from shore power
@@wayinterglobal7898 we have a Cannon fridge in our new Wolf pup, so I have a 50watt solar panel on the roof, plus on the ground, a 200 watt suitcase panels 2 12v deep cycle, total 130 amp hrs. So we ran lights, awning light, water pump, pump heater, just to do the dishes, a bit of the radio mostly at night, and my batteries, lasted only Friday nite and until Saturday, early until the nite. So was thinking of buying, 2 6volt golf cart batteries, at 215 amp hrs each, would that be enough for 4 days of camping, with no issues.
@@garysaumure9299 Gary, we'll get this question in front of our product team to confirm and get back to you soon on. Would you be able to email us at web@wayinterglobal.com so we can respond to you directly or get any other information we'd need to help you validate this setup?
Mine won’t even work for a few minutes on 2 batteries? What’s wrong with it?
It does fine on shore power
Is it to use battery only without asolar?
Hello Ruth - Your refrigerator will use battery at all times, both when plugged in to shore power and while charging with solar or other power solutions.
How many watts is this refrigerator running at under full load?
Hello, thank you for reaching out. This model typically runs at 45 - 73 watts.
Very interesting. Are those deep cycle battery or a car battery ?
These are deep cycle batteries.
@@wayinterglobal7898 Thanks
What type of battery was ysed
@Stephen - a Group 27 Deep Cycle battery is the sole power source used in this test.
So where can you buy one and how much does it cost?
Hi Dat! Our fridges are available for sale on our website: www.wayinterglobal.com/collections/refrigerators. The 11 cubic foot fridge that is featured in this video is also available on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Everchill-Refrigerator-Capacity-Stainless-Outlook/dp/B099GSWK5D/
The biggest problem with these is the now, legendary poor support. They need to fix the leaks and do a better job of supporting the customer.
yea without opening the door sure cut that down to 1/3 so 15 hours or less if your constnatly going in it and when its hot out about 12 hours your looking at one car batt
Hello Jerry - Thank you for your interest in our products and our testing process/results. We took some of these recommendations into account and did another test here: ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html
If you have further testing questions or concerns, we welcome you to our test facility in Elkhart or would love if you'd speak to one of our product specialists. Please reach out to us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com for more information about our process. Thank you!
IVE HAD 3 PULL TRAILERS.THE REF.GOES OUT FIRST.THE AMMONIA TUBE,EVERY TIME.IM LOOKING HARD AT YOUR REF.3 TIMES 1300.00.
you're harder to understand than Chinese arithmetic...geez
Hello Richard - For issues with our products, please contact us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com or call (574) 971-4490. Thank you!
Does this fridge also have auto defrost ?
@charlesrg Yes, the Everchill 12V fridge has auto defrost.
@@wayinterglobal7898 does it also runs at 24V ?
Ty
You're welcome, Hawaii Dogs. You're welcome.
Not sure this is accurate. I have same fridge on 4 - 100watt panels and 4 - 29 series 100 amp hour deep cycle batteries and will not run for more than week and a half. No other load on battery system.
Jim, we appreciate you checking out our video and we stand by our results in this and our other tests. With every setup being different, and ambient conditions varying, we expect slight variations in performance. We welcome you to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can talk more about the performance you're getting and if we have any ideas to help extend this even further for you.
Very good for solar
Thank you!
You used a deep cycle battery that has about 105 amp hours of capacity. That type of battery usually has about 50-60% usable capacity. So that would be about 60 amp hours of usable power. Your refrigerator is probably using 8amps or more per hour if you are running the fridge and freezer together. 60 amps of power at 8 amps an hour is about 8 hrs of capacity. Please explain how you managed to get 368 amp hours of capacity out of a battery that can support about 60amp hours? Even a $3000 lithium battery can not support that usage time. If you want people to believe your test post the stats and calculations to prove your test. I’m happy to be wrong and corrected.
Liam- Thank you for the comment and we appreciate your knowledge and passion for RV appliances.
Regarding your calculations, the variable that is different than what you estimate is the active current draw of the fridge. You use 8 amps per hour as a constant current draw over the course of your calculations. However, in reality, the fridge only operates between 6 and 8 amps during the initial start-up/cool-down period and maybe during an auto-defrost cycle. For most of the time, the fridge is idle or in a low draw state to re-cool during which, the current draw is typically below 1 and maybe up to about 4 amps. It is this high-efficiency period of low current draw that allows the Everchill 12V to last so long on a single battery.
This video captures the exact performance that we see under these conditions. We will soon be posting some additional testing videos showing the Everchill 12V in warmer conditions and with frequent opening and closing of the fridge to demonstrate how this would perform in different scenarios we know our owners experience. We hope you come back to check these out as well. If you have more questions or comments, please write to us at web@wayinterglobal.com
Way, Liam is right. I've a new 2022 travel trailer, the fridge is a 12v ge 13.5amp, but it's running at 8amp, I'm using a single 12v lead acid deep cycle group 24, 685mca, 140rc and run for 6 to 7 hours, no more. Just last week I add 2nd battery and work now 12 hours, no more. Next step I'm going to upgraded to 3 batteries AGM with 220ah each and 200w solar panel with mppt. I'll see
No product in the freezer.
Hi James- you're correct, in this test we did not have any food or drink in the freezer. We have recently posted another video with tests of our 12v fridge on a battery that does have food and drinks in the fridge and freezer and see very similar results. We'd love for you to check it out and let us know what you think. Thanks
This company knows better. They should stop misleading people. Test without opening and closing the fridge hmm wow.
@James, there is no intention to mislead. We are clear about the conditions of this test. We have additional testing in progress and will post future videos as appropriate.
I have this fridge, this test is NOT applicable too a real world IN USE scenario. I'm not sure if this is known to them doing this or not. I have 4 100w mono panels, mppt controller, and 3 group 31 nautilus batteries... The panels are not enough nor are the batteries. I'm bringing into this 2 more 100w panels and 1 more battery hoping this, being used for a full time application works.
That test does not involve someone opening it like people normally do, having something in there other than water, defrost cycles (over 8 amps btw), that fridge being assisted also by being in a controlled setting in a room with ac vs being in somones rig with 2 1/2 insulation on the back side with the sun on it for hrs, where you live, season with available sun etc. Etc... Not cool (pun intended).
Being this is what it is for cost, then being in a position to be forced too find the hard way much more has too be spent to run it effectively is really an unfortunate and expensive lesson. Don't even bother with the video as it's highly misleading and inappropriate.
Evan, we appreciate you checking out our video and leaving your feedback. We stand by our results in this and our other tests and feel that we are clear about the test conditions we are demonstrating. With every vehicle set up being different, and as you note, ambient conditions varying, we expect slight variations in performance. We test our products in different settings and are always looking to find additional ways to measure our performance. As we record and release more of these tests, we hope you come back and check these out as well. And as always, we welcome you to contact us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can talk more about the performance you're getting and if we have any ideas to help extend this even further for you.
@@wayinterglobal7898 hello, you are clear about the test conditions but unless those conditions are actual using conditions, I'm not sure it's functional for someone choosing what too buy being there gonna actually have to open it several times a day, eventually enter that defrost cycle and contend ultimately with the risk of loosing food. It is a critical factor and highly relevant, particularly if your full timing.
Your video caused me too make a decision from yours an another, honestly had I considered the conditions vs the reality of usage conditions, I may not have.
I will say this, your intervention is quite impossible as it pulls more that the 3 batteries can maintain for any relevant period so more is needed, and since more is needed, panels are needed to charge them, not much else can be done here. I insulated the wall behind it prior too install, and all clearances are as required. I'm left to deal with this and there aren't any options shy of the 2 above. It is what it is.... Consequences.
Skeptical of this claim based on experience with similar WD-282FWDC 11 cu ft model based on realistic 8 amp draw and usual 75+% duty cycle. Nearly 2 full days (43 hours) claimed here is more than twice my experience. Practical use in my RV requires daily 3 hour generator run to replenish my (much larger) dual 6 volt 220 Ah batteries while avoiding deep discharge premature battery damage. Ideal dry camping solution involves daily 1000 watt inverter generator recharge for said 3 hours. Anything less is wishful thinking.
Even 230W solar will not anywhere near keep up. Also not impressed with automatic electronics including defrost control that is unpredictable and power hungry, nor with poor air circulation impeded by glass shelves. Duty cycle is high enough, and smallish compressor needs all the help it can get, including another small interior fan. These Danfoss clone DC compressors require minimal thermostat control circuit (read cheap, reliable). Defrost best with manual 1 hour bathroom fan timer circuit and devise clear window to observe frost buildup. Plan to eventually modify and simplify mine to this concept.
trueblue2k2- we appreciate your comments but stand by the results of this test and others we've done with our fridges, solar panels, and more. We'd be happy to have you come to our offices to participate in a future test to see the performance and results in real-time. Feel free to reach out to us at web@wayinterglobal.com and we can coordinate if you'd like.
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"similar WD-282FWDC" you say? I think that is the EXACT same model as this Everchill. Mine is branded by Magic Chef but same model number as well. I'm confused by "realistic 8 amp draw and usual 75+% duty cycle". Are you saying you have measured this on THIS unit? If so do you mean it drew 8 amps when compressor kicked on and was on for 75% of the time, so the average use was 6 amps? That is about twice what others have implied. If you have a 12v (obstensibly) 220Ah setup (using two 6v golf cart batteries probably) then you have a usable 110Ah until you draw down to the safe 50% charge (12.1v). So math says 110 AH / 6 A = 18.3 Hours. For example. Please correct me, it really helps us all know REAL world data. Also check out my LOOOONG rant I just posted. thanks
That was an absolute horrible test. Do you never open your fridge when you are camping to pull food out of your fridge?
Absolute garbage never works. We are on full hook up brand new battery brand new rv . Thing is always blinking blue led! No dealer support or manufacturer tech support. Avoid it if you can.
@germantrader10, our team provides robust customer service and tech support. We have a number of videos on our channel and site that could help troubleshoot this for you and our team is available to speak directly to find out more and get to the heart of your issue. You can contact us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com
6 degrees in the freezer means soft ice cream 37 degrees fridge is not cold enough what a pos
Shady battery info. Don’t trust.
James, please let us know what specific questions you have about the battery in this test and we'll be happy to answer these for you.
lol. i kinda thought the same thing. car battery specs but labeled as deep cycle. why no amp hr rating? but, i guess 43 hrs runtime is doable, if ambient temp is mild and only going into the fridge a few times a day. i can get almost 4 days on a .5 cu ft fridge and a group 31 105 ah agm. i never let my battery go below 12.0 volts. i'd imagine if I let the fridge go to the low voltage cut off I could get several more days....at the expense of a damaged battery.
I think it’s good that you responded to the people that challenged your testing. However, your responses were less than forthcoming. The problem with this test is that you failed to state all of the conditions and parameters and that allows people to properly and accurately question the results. You failed to state all of the test conditions and variables up front. That leads everyone to believe that the testing was skewed to show the best possible result, which it was. You did not even put in the effort to do a minimally fair test. Your ambient temperature was not significantly higher than what you expected the fridge to operate at, so you you presented a best case instead of worse case; you never opened the doors to fridge, again a best case scenario, who doesn’t open their fridge for 40+ hours. These two things alone, taint the results of your testing and basically make it flawed, biased and unrealistic.
Hello Marv - Thank you for your interest in our products and our testing process/results. We took some of these recommendations into account and did another test here: ruclips.net/video/g0OCipGh73U/видео.html
If you have further testing questions or concerns, we welcome you to our test facility in Elkhart or would love if you'd speak to one of our product specialists. Please reach out to us at customerservice@wayinterglobal.com for more information about our process. Thank you!
My brand new Keystonr 1800BH came with a Furrion LLC / Everchill 3.3 Cu Ft 12 Volt Refrigerator, WS-95RDC Style:2022302371. In 70-80 degrees full leaving space on all shelves for air flow it STRUGGLES to go below 40 on 5, 6, or 7. Items were put in days ago COLD and the unit was running for two days cold. Freeze barely works. Useless.