You have almost converted me to go for this. Thought dovetails were the best but now I know they are difficult and K5 has done a good enough job. Well done video. It tells it as it is!
Just wanted to say about my last comment... After watching the video really carefully I see that the clamp is on the same side as the drill jig. That is actually the way it should be. I just ordered the K5 and, once again, thanks so much for your comprehensive review!
I have a idea for setting the drill bit depth guide. when you first get it grab a scrap piece of 2x4 and drill a hole at each setting and mark them accordingly, this way when you want to change the setting just drop the drill bit into the corresponding hole and set your depth stop. glue it somewhere so you don't lose it.
Honestly didnt think I would watch all 9 + min of this video, but this was a great in depth video. I was looking to purchase a kreg setup as I used the cheap clamp on one with decent results. This video convinced me to go with the k5 over the cheaper k4 thanks
I saw Kreg's demo and the adjustment of that clamp is pretty straight forward. The front lever in down (pulled towards you), insert your board, slide the clamp all the way to the board and hold in place, while taking the front lever, lift to the 2nd clicking sound and then pull it to you and the proper clamping pressure is obtained every time. This is a pretty neat system. I ordered one this weekend and can't wait to get it.
You are absolutely correct. Once I realized that I started using the clamp the correct way, the process got a lot better. You are going to love your Kreg jig once you start working with it.
I borrowed a friend's jig, and sold on it already...well it was him who asked me to come around to try it...but he has the K4...yes a bit of fiddling to get the unit to hold different sizes...but that didn't worry me..it worked on a small project I was I wanted to...but he told me to try it on some off cuts...ease galore...so having that extra practice at home, besides at my buddies place, and i was off like a well trained winning race horse..I am sold on the product...sad I had to return the unit to its owner though...lol....Saw them enough on youtube but was happy to actually use one...so when my budget improves a bit, I am off to buy one. I found an outlet here in Adelaide...yay!!
Interesting video, thanks. I purchased a K4 from Lowe's yesterday for $139 and after watching your video and finding the K5 on Amazon for $139, I will return the K4 and purchase a K5 from Kreg. BUT I think I will take some pictures and measurements of the drill bit quick measurement tool on the K4 and make one in wood with drill bits and then split the wood mid-hole and mark the wood. Thank you for the video.
Hi John, thank you very much for your demonstration on Kreg jig K5. Why can't they put they put the measurement on "Stop-collar setting block" on top instead of in front. When we use Kreg Jig K5 product, we look down to the "stop-collar setting block" right?
John enjoyed your review. Being in Australia we use metric timber sizes. I do have a Kreg pocket hole jig which Ive used extensively to fix colonial chairs with turned legs. The seat pad was made from Beech which was laminated together with glue. This failed on two chairs after 20 years of heavy use so I used the Kreg to rejoin the seat pad. Worked great. Your comment about the numbers being now white is also relevant as the moulded in numbers were a pain to see in low light. It might be good if Kreg put metric on one face and imperial on the other in white as this would make their unit more universal with minor cost impact. Same goes for setting up the clamp piston dual numbering would be great at low cost. My mini Kreg collar setup jig is also handy and I agree with your comment that it would be good to fit it to the main housing so that you don't lose or break it. Good video Ken
+Ken Chegwidden The Porter-Cable system does not discriminate metric or imperial system and requires little if any adjustments. Yes, it is a little bulkier but seems like it it a very solid piece of equipment. Porter-Cable 560.
With the k5 you put the clamping handle down, place wood in clamp, lift clamping handle up until it clicks twice, then put it back down to get the needed clamping strength.
Very well done instructional video! Well shot, well spoken, "script" thought out nicely, well illustrated. Nice job! On top of all of that, very informative!
John I am curious how the K5 stacked up to the Armor tool Pocket hole system? I like the improvements that Kreg has made however the Armor tool pocket hole system has a nice feature of auto setting the correct collar with the wood. just wanted to get your thoughts?
You could just have multiple driving bits marked to the correct setting. So if you're going from a 3/4" to a 1 1/2" you could have two separate depth set bits. You could mark them with a label with the edge of the label being at the spot where the depth collar would go, so if you notice it's moved you could easily readjust it.
My biggest gripes with the K5 over the older one are: 1. Depth setting, like you pointed out. For 99% of the time, I have it on 3/4". When it comes time to find the depth for 1/2" I know I'll have misplaced that little setter. 2. That dust collector adapter falls off all the time. I have it, (through a fitting), attached to my Festool vac. It's so easy to knock that thing off. I'd have preferred some sort of positive way to keep the adapter attached, like a screw. The clamp control on the right side of the tool makes it all worth it, though. It was a pain to pocket hole cabinet carcasses before that.
I gave my Kreg to a neighbor. Bought the Porter Cable pocket hole jig, auto adjust for any thickness material automagically. No worry about drill bit collar placement - set it once, and go. I can do twice as much work with the Porter Cable jig. Its also heavy duty aluminum not plastic.
Just a couple things, dude mentioned he thought there should be a line marked for adjusting the cylinder to the right thickness of the wood.No Need. Its self adjusting . If you push the cylinder back all the way and put the handle all the way down , then put your board in and push the cylinder up to touch the board, and that point bring the handle up until you hear 2 clicks. at that point its adjusted to the width. your set. Read the directions it explains it better then me. lol Also dude said the clamp handle in the front not a big deal . I disagree its the best feature of the jig. When building cabinets Ill pocket screw 2' sides to the face frames. when you put a 2' panel in the jig you have to go around to the other side just to clamp it down . With the K5 you can clamp and drill from the same side making it really convenient.
When you get the K4, please check out the instructions. I was a little bit wrong on how to adjust the tension for the board clamp. If I would have read the instructions first, I would have seen that it is a pretty slick system.
WorkshopAddict 'read instructions first'...? surely you jest.... we don't 'read instructions first'.... we check it all out, try some stuff, get mad cause it don't work as easily as the video, and then finally, resort to reading the instructions...lol
Sorry this took so long, but the clamp is not plastic. I put a magnet to it and it is metal. It is covered in some kind of coating, so I wasn't sure it if was metal or something else.
I really like these reviews but I am not a fan of the K5. I bought the K4 because of the convince of the depth guide being on the jig itself. I would loose that depth gauge for the K5 in a heartbeat. I really don't like the painted numbers either but that's what they are going to now. I do like the spring pin for adjusting the depth though....that's pretty slick.
the reason i see that they did not put markings on the sliding wood clamp is 3/4 or 5/8 etc.. are not all the same, AC, BC, EVEN CDX, or pine straight boards can vary.. just a thought. I plan to buy one,, happy father's day to me., nice work on your part.
you stated they didn't raise the price. That's a nice thought until you realize that the K5 doesn't include a case OR a face clamp. I was all set to order the K5 (had even found someone to give my K4 to), and fortunately I noticed that there was no face clamp included. At almost $30 for the clamp, it was a deal breaker for me.
Carl Letts I find the clamp indispensible for making panels - it keeps both parts perfectly aligned for fixing rails and styles - I now also use it to make wide boards, finding it more accurate and faster than biscuits for alignment, plus you can clean excess glue off immediately and carry on with further operations without waiting for the glue to set up.
Woah! You said the clamp is now on the other side but that doesn't make any difference. Holy smokes I can see it making a huge difference. I'm building a cabinet that's 20 inches deep by 36 inches wide by 70 inches tall. How in the world am I going to reach over this jig to set the clamp when I do the sides, let alone the back and bottoms. That looks impossible. I'll be scooting around the piece to clamp it for most of the holes. Yes? No? Comments? Because as it stands now I think I'm better served getting the K4. BTW, great video and now I'm really glad I watched it and thought about it before buying the K5. Thanks.
I got a K4. Works ok, but straight out of the box, first use, I over-tightened the cam and pulled the insert out of the body. Super-glued it back. I can't see why you need a setting jig - on the K4, I just drop the drill down the hole till the tip just enters the pilot hole in the base and then fix the collar. Or am I missing something? That new setting-plunger has caused others problems - apparently, the pin slips out easily during use and the block drops down, leading to over-depth drilling and scrapped parts. Parting with £100 UK [ $150 US?] to get a front lever, two blue support plates in lieu of a bit of off-cut packing and a drill box is not my idea of cash well spent.
Hi Belson Allan researching and considering buying this product did you resolve your problems with the jig? I will most likely get the K5 still looking at pros and cons and if it will be value for money and save me valuable time on jobs. Cheers
Quick question: What are the black clamps mounted to the board for? I don't see in any of these videos that you explain what those are, and what you use them for. Could you explain that for me?
Thank you for your video. I needed it to see if I invest in the new one or keep my K4. I was laughing when you opened the bag with your teeth. I do the same even though I have about 10 scissors within arms reach. LOL. Thank again.
great nickname for Gaby: Gaby scissorhands! Btw, i don't have any pockethole system, but am considering the investment basically to make rustic picture frames..
2020 and it's still the same way. I cannot find this in stock anywhere. Ended up buying brand new on eBay for $130. Amazon had them as well but a much later shipping date.
Great question. The unit is made from two different plastics. The outfeed tables are made of a plastic that seem to be a little brittle. I use this unit a lot and the only real concern I have with the outfeed tables are opening or closing the lid. Other than that, they are fine. The main section of the unit is made from the same quality material that the K4 is made of. No issues with that. The clamp is fine as well.
I thought the clamp was supposed to auto adjust. You move it closer than you need it to be, clamp until you hear 2 clicks, unclamp it and it's now set right where it needs to be. That's what was in the promo videos anyway.
With the minor "improvements" made, I personally don't think they worth the extra cost of the K5 vs. the K4. I got my K4 Kit at a steal for only R 1,699 (Normall Priced at around R 3,500) as compared to R 4,800. Yes sadly these kits cost a fortune over here because of exchange rates, import duties, etc. What I would like to see added would be metric measurements.
K5 better than K4 but not as good/smart as K3. if you're working on tall wide boards you still have to hold on to work and walk over to front to move the plunger. Stupid design just like K4
Just picked this up for $10 at a yard sale. I appreciate the thorough review. I was able to go through and verify that I wasn't missing anything!!
You have almost converted me to go for this. Thought dovetails were the best but now I know they are difficult and K5 has done a good enough job. Well done video. It tells it as it is!
Just wanted to say about my last comment... After watching the video really carefully I see that the clamp is on the same side as the drill jig. That is actually the way it should be. I just ordered the K5 and, once again, thanks so much for your comprehensive review!
I have a idea for setting the drill bit depth guide. when you first get it grab a scrap piece of 2x4 and drill a hole at each setting and mark them accordingly, this way when you want to change the setting just drop the drill bit into the corresponding hole and set your depth stop. glue it somewhere so you don't lose it.
+gowthit: 'an'......I have an idea. 'an' goes before a vowel. You're welcome! :)
Honestly didnt think I would watch all 9 + min of this video, but this was a great in depth video. I was looking to purchase a kreg setup as I used the cheap clamp on one with decent results. This video convinced me to go with the k5 over the cheaper k4 thanks
Your Welcome Adam.
I saw Kreg's demo and the adjustment of that clamp is pretty straight forward. The front lever in down (pulled towards you), insert your board, slide the clamp all the way to the board and hold in place, while taking the front lever, lift to the 2nd clicking sound and then pull it to you and the proper clamping pressure is obtained every time. This is a pretty neat system. I ordered one this weekend and can't wait to get it.
You are absolutely correct. Once I realized that I started using the clamp the correct way, the process got a lot better. You are going to love your Kreg jig once you start working with it.
I borrowed a friend's jig, and sold on it already...well it was him who asked me to come around to try it...but he has the K4...yes a bit of fiddling to get the unit to hold different sizes...but that didn't worry me..it worked on a small project I was I wanted to...but he told me to try it on some off cuts...ease galore...so having that extra practice at home, besides at my buddies place, and i was off like a well trained winning race horse..I am sold on the product...sad I had to return the unit to its owner though...lol....Saw them enough on youtube but was happy to actually use one...so when my budget improves a bit, I am off to buy one. I found an outlet here in Adelaide...yay!!
Interesting video, thanks. I purchased a K4 from Lowe's yesterday for $139 and after watching your video and finding the K5 on Amazon for $139, I will return the K4 and purchase a K5 from Kreg. BUT I think I will take some pictures and measurements of the drill bit quick measurement tool on the K4 and make one in wood with drill bits and then split the wood mid-hole and mark the wood. Thank you for the video.
Hi John, thank you very much for your demonstration on Kreg jig K5. Why can't they put they put the measurement on "Stop-collar setting block" on top instead of in front. When we use Kreg Jig K5 product, we look down to the "stop-collar setting block" right?
John enjoyed your review. Being in Australia we use metric timber sizes. I do have a Kreg pocket hole jig which Ive used extensively to fix colonial chairs with turned legs. The seat pad was made from Beech which was laminated together with glue. This failed on two chairs after 20 years of heavy use so I used the Kreg to rejoin the seat pad. Worked great. Your comment about the numbers being now white is also relevant as the moulded in numbers were a pain to see in low light. It might be good if Kreg put metric on one face and imperial on the other in white as this would make their unit more universal with minor cost impact. Same goes for setting up the clamp piston dual numbering would be great at low cost. My mini Kreg collar setup jig is also handy and I agree with your comment that it would be good to fit it to the main housing so that you don't lose or break it. Good video Ken
Thank you for the compliments and for taking the time to comment.
+Ken Chegwidden The Porter-Cable system does not discriminate metric or imperial system and requires little if any adjustments. Yes, it is a little bulkier but seems like it it a very solid piece of equipment. Porter-Cable 560.
With the k5 you put the clamping handle down, place wood in clamp, lift clamping handle up until it clicks twice, then put it back down to get the needed clamping strength.
Your choice of shirts and my choice of monitors are driving my eyes crazy!!
lol!
I know this is an older video. Very informative. I'm looking to buy the latest version of the Kreg system. Is the K5 the one to get? Thx
K5 has been out for a while and it seems to be preferred over the K4
Very well done instructional video! Well shot, well spoken, "script" thought out nicely, well illustrated. Nice job! On top of all of that, very informative!
John I am curious how the K5 stacked up to the Armor tool Pocket hole system? I like the improvements that Kreg has made however the Armor tool pocket hole system has a nice feature of auto setting the correct collar with the wood. just wanted to get your thoughts?
You could just have multiple driving bits marked to the correct setting. So if you're going from a 3/4" to a 1 1/2" you could have two separate depth set bits. You could mark them with a label with the edge of the label being at the spot where the depth collar would go, so if you notice it's moved you could easily readjust it.
Nice review.. I have the K3 master system and like it. nice to see what changes they have put into the new unit..
My biggest gripes with the K5 over the older one are:
1. Depth setting, like you pointed out. For 99% of the time, I have it on 3/4". When it comes time to find the depth for 1/2" I know I'll have misplaced that little setter.
2. That dust collector adapter falls off all the time. I have it, (through a fitting), attached to my Festool vac. It's so easy to knock that thing off. I'd have preferred some sort of positive way to keep the adapter attached, like a screw.
The clamp control on the right side of the tool makes it all worth it, though. It was a pain to pocket hole cabinet carcasses before that.
Why would you just not keep the depth setter in one of the wings?
Mick S
Mick S
It won't fit.
Pete Brown
Set your guide block as usual. Drop the drill into the guide. Put a nickel under the point and set your stop collar.
I gave my Kreg to a neighbor. Bought the Porter Cable pocket hole jig, auto adjust for any thickness material automagically. No worry about drill bit collar placement - set it once, and go. I can do twice as much work with the Porter Cable jig. Its also heavy duty aluminum not plastic.
I'm saving for this one and Thanks for showing us cus at first I was saving for the k4 now that I've seen this I'm definitely going for this one
Great review. Been researching this unit and I like what I see.
Just a couple things, dude mentioned he thought there should be a line marked for adjusting the cylinder to the right thickness of the wood.No Need. Its self adjusting . If you push the cylinder back all the way and put the handle all the way down , then put your board in and push the cylinder up to touch the board, and that point bring the handle up until you hear 2 clicks. at that point its adjusted to the width. your set. Read the directions it explains it better then me. lol
Also dude said the clamp handle in the front not a big deal . I disagree its the best feature of the jig. When building cabinets Ill pocket screw 2' sides to the face frames. when you put a 2' panel in the jig you have to go around to the other side just to clamp it down . With the K5 you can clamp and drill from the same side making it really convenient.
My old Kreg jig is getting pretty tired. It might be time to go get the K5.
Good review.
Thanks
Eric
Thanks so much for this tutorial.Easy to follow & now I'm even more sold on this product.
When you get the K4, please check out the instructions. I was a little bit wrong on how to adjust the tension for the board clamp. If I would have read the instructions first, I would have seen that it is a pretty slick system.
thanks for ur honesty
WorkshopAddict 'read instructions first'...? surely you jest.... we don't 'read instructions first'.... we check it all out, try some stuff, get mad cause it don't work as easily as the video, and then finally, resort to reading the instructions...lol
i bought the k-5 just recently-no drill adjustment gauge
is it available in uk ??
Thanks for the review John, do they have version with metric markings?
I do not believe so.
Can this be used on a 4x4?
Tools in action?
is the tension clamp on the K5 plastic?
Sorry this took so long, but the clamp is not plastic. I put a magnet to it and it is metal. It is covered in some kind of coating, so I wasn't sure it if was metal or something else.
I really like these reviews but I am not a fan of the K5. I bought the K4 because of the convince of the depth guide being on the jig itself. I would loose that depth gauge for the K5 in a heartbeat. I really don't like the painted numbers either but that's what they are going to now. I do like the spring pin for adjusting the depth though....that's pretty slick.
the reason i see that they did not put markings on the sliding wood clamp is 3/4 or 5/8 etc.. are not all the same, AC, BC, EVEN CDX, or pine straight boards can vary.. just a thought. I plan to buy one,, happy father's day to me., nice work on your part.
The clamp handle on the same side as the drill guide is worth the cost of the entire kit if you do big panels!!
what's the price on it
Another great review John!
Got this in Metric?
you stated they didn't raise the price. That's a nice thought until you realize that the K5 doesn't include a case OR a face clamp. I was all set to order the K5 (had even found someone to give my K4 to), and fortunately I noticed that there was no face clamp included. At almost $30 for the clamp, it was a deal breaker for me.
Carl Letts I find the clamp indispensible for making panels - it keeps both parts perfectly aligned for fixing rails and styles - I now also use it to make wide boards, finding it more accurate and faster than biscuits for alignment, plus you can clean excess glue off immediately and carry on with further operations without waiting for the glue to set up.
You need to read instructions on setting up for different thicknesses of boards. There is an easy process to doing this.
His method is not correct, read the manual.
Woah! You said the clamp is now on the other side but that doesn't make any difference. Holy smokes I can see it making a huge difference. I'm building a cabinet that's 20 inches deep by 36 inches wide by 70 inches tall. How in the world am I going to reach over this jig to set the clamp when I do the sides, let alone the back and bottoms. That looks impossible. I'll be scooting around the piece to clamp it for most of the holes. Yes? No? Comments? Because as it stands now I think I'm better served getting the K4.
BTW, great video and now I'm really glad I watched it and thought about it before buying the K5.
Thanks.
+Croy Wedgewood Good point and the separate depth finder is another negative in my opinion.
great review
I got a K4. Works ok, but straight out of the box, first use, I over-tightened the cam and pulled the insert out of the body. Super-glued it back. I can't see why you need a setting jig - on the K4, I just drop the drill down the hole till the tip just enters the pilot hole in the base and then fix the collar. Or am I missing something? That new setting-plunger has caused others problems - apparently, the pin slips out easily during use and the block drops down, leading to over-depth drilling and scrapped parts. Parting with £100 UK [ $150 US?] to get a front lever, two blue support plates in lieu of a bit of off-cut packing and a drill box is not my idea of cash well spent.
Hi Belson Allan researching and considering buying this product
did you resolve your problems with the jig?
I will most likely get the K5 still looking at pros and cons and if it will be value for money and save me valuable time on jobs.
Cheers
nice review. I like the upgrades, but not enough to go buy a new one. My old one works great and I guess I have gotten use to it.
Quick question: What are the black clamps mounted to the board for? I don't see in any of these videos that you explain what those are, and what you use them for. Could you explain that for me?
check out the video at 4:00. He tells you what it is for.
I got the k5 for Xmas I love it
Hi, how to secure the K5 to the workbench?
there are some holes in the unit that you can run screws down to your work surface.
thanks for your review, your pros and cons were, straight forward, keep up the good work.......
Thank you for your video. I needed it to see if I invest in the new one or keep my K4. I was laughing when you opened the bag with your teeth. I do the same even though I have about 10 scissors within arms reach. LOL. Thank again.
great nickname for Gaby: Gaby scissorhands! Btw, i don't have any pockethole system, but am considering the investment basically to make rustic picture frames..
It's 2019 and lowes and home depot are still only stocking the k4 in their retail stores. Any idea why?
2020 and it's still the same way. I cannot find this in stock anywhere. Ended up buying brand new on eBay for $130. Amazon had them as well but a much later shipping date.
@@rebadaddy i got my k5 way back when it came out on Amazon. There must be a ton of k4 units still in production
Nice review, thx. I like your shop cabinets
Hi, does the K5 include a face-clamp?
No, it does not.
Has Kreg come out with the next generation or made changes to this?
not yet
+WorkshopAddict Thank you. I'm now a subscriber.
Looks somewhat flimsy. How strong (break resistant) is that plastic???
Great question. The unit is made from two different plastics. The outfeed tables are made of a plastic that seem to be a little brittle. I use this unit a lot and the only real concern I have with the outfeed tables are opening or closing the lid. Other than that, they are fine. The main section of the unit is made from the same quality material that the K4 is made of. No issues with that. The clamp is fine as well.
Start with the clamp down before you adjust it, then you will not need to back it of and try again
The most significant tool in the mix would most definitely be the small Allen wrench...
I thought the clamp was supposed to auto adjust. You move it closer than you need it to be, clamp until you hear 2 clicks, unclamp it and it's now set right where it needs to be. That's what was in the promo videos anyway.
Todd, you are absolutely correct. I hadn't watched the Kreg video prior to working with it. That makes setting it up even nicer.
great video. very informative.
I just got k4should I return for k5
+Mitchell Hall Hall There are pros and cons to both. I would not return it.
how to order that item.i want to buy
honestly the best system is the K4 with the Armor tool clamp upgrade, lol
great review enjoyed it very helpful
This guy standing in a wood shop asks. “Let’s see, do I have any wood?” 😂
With the minor "improvements" made, I personally don't think they worth the extra cost of the K5 vs. the K4. I got my K4 Kit at a steal for only R 1,699 (Normall Priced at around R 3,500) as compared to R 4,800. Yes sadly these kits cost a fortune over here because of exchange rates, import duties, etc.
What I would like to see added would be metric measurements.
Good work !
thanks workshopaddicy
Very nice to see some who knows WTF.... thanks
great review!
If you simply read step 4 in the clamping directions for setting the clamping stop, you probably would not need markings as you mentioned.
You are correct. I should have read the manual first. It is actually a pretty easy setup.
No but its a very use full stuff mainly its a cutting product from timber to tile u can cut you need to have jigsaw and the tile cutter
i didn't get the set-up guide for the rill stop-that was stupid to make it a separate piece-kreg not too smart
Thanks Bud
square driver is called a robertson.invented in milton,ontario,canada.lol
I like you cabinets...
I just bought the k4 at Lowe's and got a free $30.00 box of there screws.
+Darrell Stout Great Deal
You should have read the instructions on the tension setting. You are missing the proper steps to setting the tension.
Meron ako nyan
Thanks for sharing =)
use a permanent market and mark the sizes for your self
muito bom gostei
The 'clamping' process is incorrect. The clamping handle from the flat position is raised 'TWO CLICKS'. No need for markings.
With that new k5, guess it's time to trash that k4...;) if you wanna sell that old junky k4, let me know...lol
K5 better than K4 but not as good/smart as K3. if you're working on tall wide boards you still have to hold on to work and walk over to front to move the plunger. Stupid design just like K4
Bosch PLS 300
+sami cevik does that make pocket holes?
Looks like copy of Bosch Work stn,but i think Bosch looks better quality.
Still cheap thin light plastic
it looks like not rigid plastic damn wasting money for plastic..then when it broke you must buy again to them not worth isnt bro
don't you want to donate one of your pocket hole jigs. lol
#workshop addict
I was ready to buy this plastic crap. Forget, I go for triton
Kreg....................Nothing but BS.
greg a joke