THE 1-2-3 BLOCK PART 1 : PREPARING THE ROUGH PART, SQUARING UP, LAYOUT AND MILLING, MARC LECUYER
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- Опубликовано: 12 фев 2014
- First of three videos on the 1-2-3 block project. These videos introduces us to certain basic milling, drilling and surface grinding operations.Keeping in mind that the objective of my videos is to introduce novice machinists to accurate work techniques, this video presents a progressive approach to completing a complex project requiring the use of several different types of machine tools and machine shop equipment. Marc L'Ecuyer
Thanks, Marc. I sure am learning a lot from these videos of yours.
Thanks and keep up the good work...
i just got myself one of those mini mills from harbor fright. I'm teaching myself how to use it by looking at your videos. love them
Great instructions. wish i had good videos like that available when i started.
Great job! I wish I had acces to this kind of educational videos when I first started machining
Thank you for this informative video. Learning tips from a master like you is a huge advantage. Looking forward to seeing more in the future and please keep up the great work!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for another great video!
another clear and informative video. thankyou Marc :)
Good video
You are awesome !
with the setup i seen, can you drill holes in the vice for one or two stops and produce more then three?
Great video, but I have a question. Wouldnt it be more appropriate to use a spot drill vs the center drill? I thought center drills were made for tailstock work on lathes? I find spot drills excel on materials that work harden like titanium and stainless. I have seen many tips of center drills destroyed from titanium drilling.
+Finn Custom Knives Hi Finn, I agree that spot drills are better for tough materials and probably for soft as well. When I was an apprentice, center drills were the tools used and spot drills just weren't around, at least I can say that I never saw one. I guess that I am used to using the center drills, so much so that I do not own any spot drills. It is probably time for me to get with the 21st century. Thanks for watching and thanks for a great comment! Marc
Definitely use a spot drill. We all agree.
Yet another great program. I do not have a quill on my knee mill (a Danish Vilhelm Pedersen) so drilling would have to happen by raising and lowering the table using the Z axis wheel. Is this even possible? Or rather, does it make sense to do drilling on such a mill?
Drilling with the Z axis is not the best situation. The z axis on most machines is slow in order to obtain the mechanical advantage required to move the massive table vertically. That also means that the z axis offers very little feedback as far as how hard we are pushing the tool. It also means that the tool will rub excessively when being retracted. I generally reserve the Z axis for drilling large holes in tough materials or if you prefer, the holes that are not suited for a quill. For many jobs, you could use your mill to spot the holes and then move to a drill press to complete them. I hope this helps! Marc L'Ecuyer
Your comments help and are much appreciated. I hope to acquire a mill with a quill, but for the time being I'll be using it as you suggest. Marc, you have helped me a lot. Thank you.
I've given up using centre drills except for forming centre holes. Spotting drills never break their tip off!
Great suggestion Paul, I will eventually produce a short video on drill bits, stub, spotting, jobber, long series, high helix, spade, gun, straight flute, center, bell type ... The video might not be so short? keep the good ideas coming! Marc L'Ecuyer
Close to the same mill I have tos kurim mine is a 1995 fnk25 a
I once had a student tear the head right off of that very machine! He had forgotten to tighten the vice and jammed the spindle at about 1200 RPM. It sounded like a bomb had gone off, thankfully no one was hurt. We ordered a rough casting from the company and made a good project out of the rebuilding of the machine. All in all, many lessons were learnt thanks to that accident. I have always enjoyed working on the Tos machines, rigid and powerful and able to get the job done! Marc L'Ecuyer
lm from kuwait and really enjoyed and earn a lot of tips
Thanks
Hi Hadi, I am glad to have your support, I produce these videos for fun and I am always happy to hear that they are helping others. The weather here is improving, it was -2° C this morning, almost hot! I am guessing it is slightly warmer where you are? Marc L'Ecuyer
THATLAZYMACHINIST
Yes , today is 36c it going to be 58c after 2 months ..
@@Mrhadiiiii 58!! are you still alive XD
12:30 you did not send the cutter all the way across the part. The trailing end of the shell mill did not clear the end of the part. js
What tool steel are you using? thanks
The 1-2-3 blocs are made from 4140 steel which is an alloyed medium carbon steel. When quenched and annealed is comes out at about 45 Rc. Tough, resistant to wear and shock. Good stuff!!!
it is good steel, I use the pre-heat treated stuff, so no heat treating after words..
thanks
Why center drill for through holes? Shouldn’t you use a spot drill? Center drills are named for their purpose-to make holes for turning using live or dead centers.
You make good videos and I hate to knit pick, but you try way to hard to be fancy and try to “impress” people with your terminology and you go way to far in in-depth explaining
I concur.
THATLAZYMACHINIST haha at least you agree. You a great teacher though. You teach the “true” and proper way. Much respect
Its the same terminology we use in our shop, sorry not everyone uses words like "put that thingy into that spindle hole there bub" some of us are somewhat educated.