Don. I must say, you make for a very good instructor. I began working in the trade 36 years ago knowing nothing. I've been in the same shop for all of those years. I am now the foreman of our shop. I wish I had someone like you to learn from at the start. And I have to say. To this day, I feel as if I can still learn something new everyday. Great videos sir.
This is commonplace on CNC mills, but a LOT of people can't make the transition of this technique from CNC to manual. Makes squaring blocks so much easier! Theoretically, you could have gripped your part by .100" and machined all five sides, then simply removed that .100" in your second op. Then again, having all sawn surfaces might make that even more tricky than normal!Good video, Mr. Bailey. Thanks.
I like the fact that you explain things quickly and aren't all the time going "uh, un, un" and tripping over beer cans. Allotta guys forget what they're saying and start coughing or clearing their throats to stall all over the place. Your style is much appreciated. Oh, and it's good info too. Thanks.
Those vises move soo much. When I was in my teens, I had to do a run of blocks on a BP. I complained to an old guy there that I hated vises and though they were throwing me off, and he went on this long anti-vise rant. Long story short, he helped me build a tool that held my blocks right on the table. It worked awesome and was more accurate than the vises.
I've been at the trade for 38 years, retired, and came back to work... Don, I gotta say you have taught this Old Dawg several new tricks already, and I thank you, sir.
My coworkers, let alone my boss, would have a fit if I left 30k on a block that needed to be finished ground. Seven to ten thousands and everybody smiles. Oh, and by the way I have used your tools for years with precision results many times over, your products are well respected. Made my life easy!
A big thank you to Chuck Bommarito of "Outside Screwball" for gifting me the "screwy balls", and thanks to those who reminded me. I remembered they were a gift, but sometimes my memory gets the best of me. Take a look at his channel, we subscribe, you should too! ruclips.net/user/outsidescrewball
Don, thank you for mentioning me regarding the "SCREWYBALLS" along with your enjoyment of the product and a big thanks from the many YT creators that attended the Summer Bash for your support and donations.
Thank you, Don and Suburban Tool! I very much enjoy and learn from you and the other metalworking "creators" on RUclips. I have been running a shop (a production shop involving sometimes involving 100,000 part runs) for many years and I have never thought I knew it all. Keeping an open mind is the best way of finding out how to improve processes so the business can be more competitive and profitable. Personally, if I were too do a number of blocks, I think I could do it faster in three setups (not really setups because it would be the same part/machine orientation. Only the knee would be moved to adjust size) because I wouldn't be trying to match the cut previously made. setup 1: mill one side (doesn't matter which one) to true (I'd start with the 3" side being milled). Do this to all blocks. make adjustment: move the knee to cut the parallel side to within desired dimension. Do this on all blocks needing processing. Setup 2: use the parallel sides just milled to true the 2" side (repeat moving knee to adjust desired dimension) mill all the blocks needed here also.... Setup 3: using the 2" side in the vise, true the 1" surface (repeat above) Some might consider the above 6 set-ups but it's really 1 with 6 adjustments. Finished and no careful matching needed. While this might not be as square and as perfect as the method in the video, in production time matters. Besides, .030 total stock is a "mile" for finish grinding.
You are very correct, this is exactly how you would do it when making multiple parts to the same size. This demonstration is purely for a "one-off" part or project. Thanks for sharing and for the comment.
NIce Video. You can also get TalonGrip vise jaws that allow you to hold onto the bottom of the block with just 0.060". You use your same method, but after doing the top and all sides in one setup, you can flip the part over and then just mill off the 0.060" from the top. This way you only touch the sides once leaving them perfect.
With manual machining I think I could have done that job quicker with 6 setups and less futzing about with the cuts but if a CNC program was being used the two setup method would rock.
interesting technique Don especially the use of marking blue. I'll be demonstrating this to my apprentice Friday. Thanks for sharing. looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks! Glad to hear you found this useful. Black sharpie also works well, and less mess. Feel free to share any and all videos with your apprentice/other apprentices/students, we want to help as much as possible.
Your videos have gotten really good lately, thank you for making them. I'd love to see a video about your career path and how things have changed since you began.
Excellent instruction, good technique with useful application demonstrated well and pleasantly, and good videography. A delight to watch and learn from. Thanks for sharing.
Such an important concept and one we have to stress to every one here at the shop. Can't tell you how many times we've had to re-chuck a part in the vise only to find the part wasn't squared properly.
Love the videos! I like the narration style too, flows very well. It's the same style we use as well for our videos. Some good basics here. Keep them coming! I second the how to grind all six sides video, with an inspection. Best Matt
I don't really like the thought belt sanding if the block is to be considered square and parallel, but otherwise it was a smart trick that I have never thought of. Thanks for sharing :)
I didn't have to, I just did it on this with this one off project because it made me happy. If I intended for this block to be held to precise tolerances, it would go straight to the grinder after the Bridgeport.
Thanks for reminding me, sometimes my memory gets the best of me these days. I've mentioned Chuck, his balls, and his channel with a link in a standalone comment; leave it a "thumbs up" so it stays at the top and gives him the credit he deserves.
Nice way to do that if you have that much tolerance for grinding (and heat treat warping if doing that). Glad to see in the comments that Chuck B. is so well loved that everybody wanted to remind you where the balls came from. :-)
Okay this is just a general comment, but I saw that your video had three dislikes. I think if you dislike a video you should at least have the common curtesy to say why you don't like it. Sorry for the short rant, but if someone can't appreciate that you guys are trying to make better machinists out of them, then they suck.
The less set ups you have do means less chance of mistakes . Also useful when you have to remove a lot of stock , say you need some stock say 2x2x3 but only have 2 1/2 square stock you could use a roughing mill to plow down that stock then flip it a do the second set up. Those half balls , possibly made by Chuck from outside screwball channel he did a series on making them .
Right you are. I remembered that they were a gift, but my memory slipped when it came to who gifted them while recording the voiceover. I have mention Chuck, his channel, and provided a link in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it says at the top of the comment section.
Interesting technique but arguably of limited use if you don't have a grinder, but then again if you are only roughing stock? Good to see you using the knee, rather than the quill, to take a cut. It seems a number of Americans machinists are allergic to the effort required to do it the right way. :>)
Put a new battery in the calliper !!It is an easy fix however I like to work off the back jaw and always some coolant unless you have a free supply of tooling!!
Thanks for reminding me. I have mention Chuck, his channel, and left a link to his channel in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it will stay at the top of the comment section.
Yes this works, but in my opinion a much better way is to get that block out of the vice and on to the table. Assuming it's really rough sawn with no decent surface to work off. Put it in the vice and face the top, that becomes the reference surface. Then set it up on parallels by clamping directly on the table with the fresh face down, you can then machine 2 sides without any step. Then begin machining the top, put some more clamps in the machined area and remove the old clamps. Finish machining the top and then the two remaining sides. You will finish up with a block that's as accurate as you care to make it, has no steps, and with all sides square and parallel. Your grinder hand will love you. Moving clamps doesn't take long at all and there is often room alongside a vice to setup like this without having to remove the vice. Unfortunately the current generation of machinists have become lazy and unimaginative, and if something doesn't fit in a milling vice, or a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe, they're completely screwed and have no idea how to do the job. In this instance, setting up directly on the table is infinitely better than using a vice. I like to read old books and magazines on machining, and it's amazing how imaginative and creative those guys were. Great results with minimal equipment.
THANK YOU for this! I really wasn't impressed with the vise (I live in the UK too but prefer vise) method and was thinking there must be a better way. I don't have any machines but I've been learning a lot off of RUclips and reading forums which will help immensely when I do get a lathe someday.
Pete F I agree. But also I have a squaring fixture I built which is like a vise with a built in angle plate. It's the best way I know how to do it. But we each work out what's best for ourselves.
Hello Sir, I have used cnc machine for squaring my job, but after some facing operation parallels beneath my job got loosen up, i think the reason is that the block was kind of pulled up during facing. I am squaring up 316*238*35.8 mm aluminium job, which tends to bend if press hard against vise jaws. can you guide me, what should i do? I would really appreciate your help.
That's a very delicate situation, and you need to find a balance between how much your tinted the word vise vs how big of a cut that you are taking. hopes that's helpful .
but now is the question if the blueing and hitting it with a beltsander takes more time/money than a couple more setups. btw those balls are meant to be used with the flat side facing the vise jaw i think. :)
What are the ball bearings callled that have the flat on one side. Also if someone could find a link and send that to me that would be extremely helpful.
They did indeed. I've mentioned Chuck's channel and provided a link in a standalone comment, leave it a thumbs up so it stays at the top of the comment section.
nice idear, but i think a good machinist will be faster and have a much bether finish if he do it the six side way. maybe you have to try it one time :) and use a fast way planing cutter.
Don: What size diameter end mill cutter (and number of flutes on it) are you using ? It must be "very large" and "ridged" to avoid chatter when full length cutting.... NO?? Thanks Brian F. AKA GUSMIX
No rings on your fingers when operating a machine! I know you’ve been doing your job a long time and know what you’re doing. You do a great job too! Just please be safe!
Don: BTW you could acknowledge Chuck Bommarito for the "unknown person" that sent you the ball bearings with the flat on them, I.E. screwy balls... Thanks Brian F. AKA GUSMIX
Thanks for reminding me, my memory gets the best of me sometimes. I've mentioned Chuck, his screwy balls, and provided a link to his channel in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it stays at the top of the comment section.
Hi Don, I'm interested in the choice of calipers you used in that video. They look like the cheap ones I got from Harbor Freight! They work fine for my uses, but some of my coworkers who are better machinists than I swear that their Mitutoyo calipers are hugely superior. What's the difference?
I'm not quite sure to be completely honest. I will say though, that the Mitutoyo calipers are easily the gold standard. Shelling out a little extra for the Mitutoyo is definitely worth it.
All the time you think you saved just made grinding take longer. All you did was make a mess and make it more difficult to grind. If you handed that to me to grind I would throw it in the scrap hopper!
Don. I must say, you make for a very good instructor. I began working in the trade 36 years ago knowing nothing. I've been in the same shop for all of those years. I am now the foreman of our shop. I wish I had someone like you to learn from at the start. And I have to say. To this day, I feel as if I can still learn something new everyday. Great videos sir.
This is commonplace on CNC mills, but a LOT of people can't make the transition of this technique from CNC to manual. Makes squaring blocks so much easier! Theoretically, you could have gripped your part by .100" and machined all five sides, then simply removed that .100" in your second op. Then again, having all sawn surfaces might make that even more tricky than normal!Good video, Mr. Bailey. Thanks.
I like the fact that you explain things quickly and aren't all the time going "uh, un, un" and tripping over beer cans. Allotta guys forget what they're saying and start coughing or clearing their throats to stall all over the place. Your style is much appreciated. Oh, and it's good info too. Thanks.
Thankyou for the video! some of us who do not machine every day for a living can use all the tips we can get 👍👌
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Those vises move soo much. When I was in my teens, I had to do a run of blocks on a BP. I complained to an old guy there that I hated vises and though they were throwing me off, and he went on this long anti-vise rant. Long story short, he helped me build a tool that held my blocks right on the table. It worked awesome and was more accurate than the vises.
Kangol Yeahh well come on mate! Share the method with us!! There is no point mentioning it, and not showing us how lol
I've been at the trade for 38 years, retired, and came back to work... Don, I gotta say you have taught this Old Dawg several new tricks already, and I thank you, sir.
My coworkers, let alone my boss, would have a fit if I left 30k on a block that needed to be finished ground. Seven to ten thousands and everybody smiles.
Oh, and by the way I have used your tools for years with precision results many times over,
your products are well respected. Made my life easy!
I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for your support online and in the shop!
A big thank you to Chuck Bommarito of "Outside Screwball" for gifting me the "screwy balls", and thanks to those who reminded me. I remembered they were a gift, but sometimes my memory gets the best of me. Take a look at his channel, we subscribe, you should too! ruclips.net/user/outsidescrewball
A terrific video. A clear explanation that gets to the point and doesn’t wander off into irrelevant blathering. Thanks!
Great video showing once again that there is always more than one way to....square a block. Another trick in the toolbox. Thanks
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Don, thank you for mentioning me regarding the "SCREWYBALLS" along with your enjoyment of the product and a big thanks from the many YT creators that attended the Summer Bash for your support and donations.
Thanks again for sending them Chuck, I appreciate it.
I check every day for new video from this guy and his pal Glenn
Glenn will be back soon, he's been very busy. Thanks for watching.
Thank you, Don and Suburban Tool! I very much enjoy and learn from you and the other metalworking "creators" on RUclips.
I have been running a shop (a production shop involving sometimes involving 100,000 part runs) for many years and I have never thought I knew it all. Keeping an open mind is the best way of finding out how to improve processes so the business can be more competitive and profitable.
Personally, if I were too do a number of blocks, I think I could do it faster in three setups (not really setups because it would be the same part/machine orientation. Only the knee would be moved to adjust size) because I wouldn't be trying to match the cut previously made.
setup 1: mill one side (doesn't matter which one) to true (I'd start with the 3" side being milled). Do this to all blocks.
make adjustment: move the knee to cut the parallel side to within desired dimension. Do this on all blocks needing processing.
Setup 2: use the parallel sides just milled to true the 2" side
(repeat moving knee to adjust desired dimension)
mill all the blocks needed here also....
Setup 3: using the 2" side in the vise, true the 1" surface
(repeat above)
Some might consider the above 6 set-ups but it's really 1 with 6 adjustments. Finished and no careful matching needed.
While this might not be as square and as perfect as the method in the video, in production time matters. Besides, .030 total stock is a "mile" for finish grinding.
You are very correct, this is exactly how you would do it when making multiple parts to the same size. This demonstration is purely for a "one-off" part or project. Thanks for sharing and for the comment.
NIce Video. You can also get TalonGrip vise jaws that allow you to hold onto the bottom of the block with just 0.060". You use your same method, but after doing the top and all sides in one setup, you can flip the part over and then just mill off the 0.060" from the top. This way you only touch the sides once leaving them perfect.
Thanks for the suggestion.
With manual machining I think I could have done that job quicker with 6 setups and less futzing about with the cuts but if a CNC program was being used the two setup method would rock.
It's always good to understand what your tolerances allow.
Thanks Don,
John
You're welcome, and thank you for the comment.
I hope the next video is showing how to grind all 6 sides square and parallel within a couple of tenths. :-)
Good suggestion, it may just be in the works.
Making it look easy and surely fun. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Don, that is an awesome tip. You are a rock star!!
Worked really well for me. Thanks for sharing Don
interesting technique Don especially the use of marking blue. I'll be demonstrating this to my apprentice Friday. Thanks for sharing. looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks! Glad to hear you found this useful. Black sharpie also works well, and less mess. Feel free to share any and all videos with your apprentice/other apprentices/students, we want to help as much as possible.
Your videos have gotten really good lately, thank you for making them.
I'd love to see a video about your career path and how things have changed since you began.
Thank you, we've been working hard to improve. Also, thanks for the suggestion, I've put it in our notes.
We are still waiting for Don to write a book on his career in machining.
Wonderful videos Don. Many thank's and greetings from Africa
Thank you, and hello from the USA.
Excellent instruction, good technique with useful application demonstrated well and pleasantly, and good videography. A delight to watch and learn from. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Glad you were able to thank something away from it. As always, thanks for watching.
Thanks, Don. Had not seen that technique before...
You're welcome, thanks for watching and commenting.
Great job. Love it.
Another great lesson!
Such an important concept and one we have to stress to every one here at the shop. Can't tell you how many times we've had to re-chuck a part in the vise only to find the part wasn't squared properly.
You don't have to tell me, I can certainly imagine! Glad you found the video valuable.
This video sucked.
Love the videos! I like the narration style too, flows very well. It's the same style we use as well for our videos. Some good basics here. Keep them coming! I second the how to grind all six sides video, with an inspection.
Best Matt
Thanks for the kind comment, we've been working hard to improve with every video.
very informative I like set.closer tolerance than I ever ran
The optical illusion is called "Aliasing" like on the old west movies where the stagecoach wheel appears to be going backwards... Nice Vid, Don...
Thanks for sharing 👍
That's how I do it in the CNC ,leavings grinding stock each side , do the back work ,flip it over mill to height ,,, rough finish PL ,HEAT TREAT.
I don't really like the thought belt sanding if the block is to be considered square and parallel, but otherwise it was a smart trick that I have never thought of. Thanks for sharing :)
I didn't have to, I just did it on this with this one off project because it made me happy. If I intended for this block to be held to precise tolerances, it would go straight to the grinder after the Bridgeport.
Profile all 4 sides clean up the top, flip it over and take it to thickness. 2 setups and no blending.
Chuck's Balls have made the big time!!
Thanks for reminding me, sometimes my memory gets the best of me these days. I've mentioned Chuck, his balls, and his channel with a link in a standalone comment; leave it a "thumbs up" so it stays at the top and gives him the credit he deserves.
great idea
Nice way to do that if you have that much tolerance for grinding (and heat treat warping if doing that). Glad to see in the comments that Chuck B. is so well loved that everybody wanted to remind you where the balls came from. :-)
Thanks for watching!
Good video. Thanks
Okay this is just a general comment, but I saw that your video had three dislikes. I think if you dislike a video you should at least have the common curtesy to say why you don't like it. Sorry for the short rant, but if someone can't appreciate that you guys are trying to make better machinists out of them, then they suck.
awesome
The less set ups you have do means less chance of mistakes .
Also useful when you have to remove a lot of stock , say you need some stock say 2x2x3 but only have 2 1/2 square stock you could use a roughing mill to plow down that stock then flip it a do the second set up.
Those half balls , possibly made by Chuck from outside screwball channel he did a series on making them .
Right you are. I remembered that they were a gift, but my memory slipped when it came to who gifted them while recording the voiceover. I have mention Chuck, his channel, and provided a link in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it says at the top of the comment section.
cool.. my sole question is how do you know thee zero again for each side?? or do you feed in till the blue starts to scratch? thanks;
Hi Don, Cool cutting job. M.K.S.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
thank you Don
You're welcome! Thanks for the support.
Great! Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Check the description, or go to 7:20 in the video.
[02/18/22] At school right now they're having us square up workpieces with only a carbide face mill.
Awesome, good luck!
Interesting technique but arguably of limited use if you don't have a grinder, but then again if you are only roughing stock?
Good to see you using the knee, rather than the quill, to take a cut. It seems a number of Americans machinists are allergic to the effort required to do it the right way. :>)
Hey, I resemble that comment Chris. : )
Told you so, :>)
THANK YOU!!!
Thank you!
Put a new battery in the calliper !!It is an easy fix however I like to work off the back jaw and always some coolant unless you have a free supply of tooling!!
Is 25thou what you normally use for grind stock? Seems like a 10 - 15 thou per side is a big chunk to grind later.
Very nice, I cannot wait to try that! Could you use a skinny vise stop and DRO/knob dials instead of the blue die?
You certainly can, but this demonstration was intended for the instance that a machine doesn't have a DRO.
What was the tool used and the hardness of the milled part. Can we do it on 48 HRC material as well?
The part was soft and yes
I see you fancy the harbor freight digital caliper haha.
Where can i get a set of those balls with the flat on them?
They were a gift from someone, possibly custom made. Thank you for watching.
Those are "Screwy Balls" designed and made by Chuck P youtube channel Outside Screwball.
Thanks for reminding me. I have mention Chuck, his channel, and left a link to his channel in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it will stay at the top of the comment section.
genius!
Always love the videos, but those parallels looked a little odd to me, were they just bar stock? It looked like they had mill scale on them.
When are you going to do a helical gear. Or a metal lathe Chuck from scratch. That would be learning.
I love you sir
Yes this works, but in my opinion a much better way is to get that block out of the vice and on to the table. Assuming it's really rough sawn with no decent surface to work off. Put it in the vice and face the top, that becomes the reference surface. Then set it up on parallels by clamping directly on the table with the fresh face down, you can then machine 2 sides without any step. Then begin machining the top, put some more clamps in the machined area and remove the old clamps. Finish machining the top and then the two remaining sides. You will finish up with a block that's as accurate as you care to make it, has no steps, and with all sides square and parallel. Your grinder hand will love you.
Moving clamps doesn't take long at all and there is often room alongside a vice to setup like this without having to remove the vice. Unfortunately the current generation of machinists have become lazy and unimaginative, and if something doesn't fit in a milling vice, or a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe, they're completely screwed and have no idea how to do the job. In this instance, setting up directly on the table is infinitely better than using a vice. I like to read old books and magazines on machining, and it's amazing how imaginative and creative those guys were. Great results with minimal equipment.
THANK YOU for this! I really wasn't impressed with the vise (I live in the UK too but prefer vise) method and was thinking there must be a better way. I don't have any machines but I've been learning a lot off of RUclips and reading forums which will help immensely when I do get a lathe someday.
Great info! Q: How do you prevent milling into the table surface?
The block sits up on parallels
Pete F I agree. But also I have a squaring fixture I built which is like a vise with a built in angle plate. It's the best way I know how to do it. But we each work out what's best for ourselves.
Hello Sir, I have used cnc machine for squaring my job, but after some facing operation parallels beneath my job got loosen up, i think the reason is that the block was kind of pulled up during facing. I am squaring up 316*238*35.8 mm aluminium job, which tends to bend if press hard against vise jaws. can you guide me, what should i do? I would really appreciate your help.
That's a very delicate situation, and you need to find a balance between how much your tinted the word vise vs how big of a cut that you are taking. hopes that's helpful .
Say Don, you do some nice videos.
Are you going to make it to IMTS?
I will be there for the first time in 8 years.
We most certainly will be, wouldn't miss it! Glad you can make it this year. Come say hello to us at Booth E-5319!
TOOO COOOL !!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching and for the comment.
but now is the question if the blueing and hitting it with a beltsander takes more time/money than a couple more setups.
btw those balls are meant to be used with the flat side facing the vise jaw i think. :)
Does it make a real difference? You still get a point contact either way, which is the objective.
yeah but you might make a dent in the jaw beacuse the ball is possibly harder than the jaw.
That`s why there is a flat on the ball, so the pressure ist distributed on a bigger surface and doesn`t leave a dent.
matze1508 The jaws are hardened, unlike the workpiece.
What are the ball bearings callled that have the flat on one side. Also if someone could find a link and send that to me that would be extremely helpful.
iam familiar with them but sorry i can't help with that
@@SuburbanToolInc do you have any idea of their name or where to get them
I believe the balls came from Outside Screwball (his youtube channel)
They did indeed. I've mentioned Chuck's channel and provided a link in a standalone comment, leave it a thumbs up so it stays at the top of the comment section.
nice idear, but i think a good machinist will be faster and have a much bether finish if he do it the six side way. maybe you have to try it one time :) and use a fast way planing cutter.
Don: What size diameter end mill cutter (and number of flutes on it) are you using ?
It must be "very large" and "ridged" to avoid chatter when full length cutting.... NO??
Thanks Brian F. AKA GUSMIX
I don't remember off of the top of my head, I'll check back in the shop today.
OK I'll await that info...
2"x1" 6 flutes...
Thanks
As the old hoary machinist who taught me said in his scratchy grouchy voice: The 6 P's
He taught you well! Thanks again for watching!
No rings on your fingers when operating a machine! I know you’ve been doing your job a long time and know what you’re doing. You do a great job too! Just please be safe!
lots of oh contraire in comments. if the block is the size of the CNC machine this trick can save your back. thanks!
Don: BTW you could acknowledge Chuck Bommarito for the "unknown person" that sent you the ball bearings with the flat on them, I.E. screwy balls...
Thanks Brian F. AKA GUSMIX
Thanks for reminding me, my memory gets the best of me sometimes. I've mentioned Chuck, his screwy balls, and provided a link to his channel in a standalone comment; leave it a thumbs up so it stays at the top of the comment section.
So not for presion blocks. it would take awhile on surface grinder. then you would lose you heat treated metal.
the quill is for drilling not milling
Hi Don, I'm interested in the choice of calipers you used in that video. They look like the cheap ones I got from Harbor Freight! They work fine for my uses, but some of my coworkers who are better machinists than I swear that their Mitutoyo calipers are hugely superior. What's the difference?
I'm not quite sure to be completely honest. I will say though, that the Mitutoyo calipers are easily the gold standard. Shelling out a little extra for the Mitutoyo is definitely worth it.
sir,is the machine used in this video a horizontal milling machine?
Well it did not look like one to me lol did you not see the cutters vertically coming down from the head?.
All the time you think you saved just made grinding take longer. All you did was make a mess and make it more difficult to grind. If you handed that to me to grind I would throw it in the scrap hopper!
Novice here, but that's square?
don nice video whereas ur side kick Glenn
He's been busy, he'll be back soon.
Why leave so much for grinding.
My bosses would have fired me for wasting so much time.
Why do you Americans say thousandths every time?? Can't you just say thou??