I’m glad that you liked the idea, I have had it in my head for a few weeks now, but it was only in your last video, that I realized how to explain it so it made sense to others. This has been such a fun journey to go through with you and the other brick sculptures, just like with the obelisk videos. I love seeing the solutions that everyone comes up with.
And also not illegal, unless your studs are too close to the end of a transparent block, and could be used for any angle from an integer sized right angle triangle.
@@minecraftmechanic1 if you don’t have anything positive or useful to say, don’t comment. this is a wholesome channel about LEGO building techniques and cool maths/engineering concepts. kindly, please get out of here with your negativity :) Trans rights are human rights! 🏳️⚧️
Not completely meaningless, it's one of the original Japanese emoji, which is (was?) a shorthand for kawaii, you use it to say "that is so cute!" I send your a message: "What do you think of this teddy bear", and you respond with "Aww 💠", like how most people now would use "😍" In Unicode it's now "diamond with a dot", but it was initially meant to be viewed as a flower.
I think if you put two 2x2 plates with a 2x2 tile on top centered on the middle jumper it would help a lot with spacing for even numbered side lengths!
Yeah had the same idea. The whole thing will be one plate higher, but it's probably worth it for the even square. Another idea I just had is to sink the middle x one brick deeper, like on the bottom of the mills plate, so that the whole foundation can be only one plate thick.
I'd love to see how this works with both the Sugar Grids and SNOT techniques. Really see how they all play together to make interesting shapes for walls and such.
To avoid the odd numbers, just start with two 2x2 plates and a 2x2 tile (all stacked on top of each other) in the middle, rather than a 1x1 brick. Then space the baseplate studs accordingly. This will have the X directly in the center, so you can then use 1x3 jumpers on it to get back into the standard system. Also, another brick worth considering for this overall method is 3755. It's retired, but not too hard to get ahold of in light bluish gray. Like the trans 1x2 bricks, it lacks bottom tubes, allowing for sliding, but it's three studs long and five bricks high, which could offer some unique opportunities.
Another option to get an even number surface on the top would be to set down some 2x2 jumper plates and then regular plates on top of them, it would bring the grid a half stud in from every side, making it even
With the technique that you show at 3:16, you _could_ use a single rounded 1x2 - if the spacing between the attachment points or the angle are close enough to the target. There should only be a tiny amount of stress in the peices. For example you could start wit the 45.23° grid, and use 1x2's on it along the edge to adjust the angle (although really, why would you?). Or you could use studs 3.5;3.5 or 5;5 or 8.5;8.5 apart and use the rounded 1x2's perpendicular to the line of studs to compensate for the stud spacing. But that still leaves you with only a two wall solution.
An interesting 45 I found recently is the Super Mario baseplates (66792 4x4x2/3, 66789 6x6x2/3, etc.). You can just stick them onto a regular 4x4 plate at 45 degrees, centered and it's an exact fit to
You can make the outer walls centered for an even number by offsetting the outer walls by half a stud. For example put jumper plates all along the outer ring on the base and you could connect with 1x3s over a half stud gap, or push the walls in with a half stud indent, like a very narrow ledge around the bottom.
This is so great! Looks sturdy enough for most applications, I’d love to see a city MOC using this and sugar grids to achieve all sorts of street and building angles. With the plates and bricks with 45 degree angle sides, I wonder how smooth of a surface layer you could make transitioning between the 90 degree grid and the 45.
I love watching this series. Learned a lot without losing my own mind in trying to figure out off grid angles. I just wonder how you could incorperate these angles in a MILS plate, using adjacent wedge plates that go on the normal grid? So you won't have like steps to get into a building, to make it flush
for an even 45 degree square maybe you could try doing a combination of the x thing and the sugar grid type of thing so it’s offset and doesnt have that 1x1 in the middle
Alternatively, although with less structural integrity maybe, use a large turntable and some round bricks. Put these at the angle you need and foundation on top, using 2 (e.g. 1x4) plates to hold the whole thing in place.
At this point, I just want to see a nice build in this method, because it's great. You're great. This channel is great. I don't feel great. Caught a nasty cold virus and I'm tired of it. Last time I caught a cold was 8 years ago on my last trip to Vegas.
Turns out that anything that gets touched by human hands can pass viruses. Dice, cards, chips, doorknobs, elevator buttons, etc. Then going back and forth between 105° outside and 68° inside can wear ya down too.
At the moment I’m thinking about ways to connect the foundation, in a more sturdy way to the main plate without using studs, using something like the stem pieces from LEGO Icons botanical collection. LEGO uses so many interesting ways to connect pieces in an organic way, that I’m hoping that I can learn a ton from those techniques to use in MOC building.
make the base X at a slightly smaller size as required (-3 studs) and then use the nega-studs of a Square plate to top it off this should leave a 1.5 stud space on the edge of the plate enough to fill out the edge externaly or use a Fasad
This is incredible! Now I guess the only beast to conquer now would be to figure out how to get an aligned even number of studs. I wonder if you could just start with an odd parity like in this video, then put some 2 x 2 jumper plates on top to change the parity of the studs, then put an even numbered facade over the whole thing?
I thought the point was to connect the angled wall to a regular wall seamlessly. Didnt even understand the problem you were trying to solve until you showed the X. Still unsure how you would connect the angled wall to a regular wall, but i guess there's probably a piece out there you could use.
I've been trying to come up with a way to make a herringbone style brick road as part of a rustic town backdrop, but the square root of two problem has been a major, well, roadblock. This method you've demonstrated may be just what I need.
Yes and no. The appearance of the road is to be straight in line with the rest of the grid, but the plates of the road itself need to be at a 45° angle to achieve the herringbone effect with 1×2 tiles placed atop them. This cross-shaped trans-slider technique should provide adequate structural integrity with the carefully layered plates, and I'll simply hide the gaps where the angle plates at the edges meet the sidewalk with an overhanging curb. This would all be much simpler if I'd abandon the herringbone brick road idea and align the bricks either horizontal or vertical, but I don't want to compromise at the first sign of a challenge. What I want is a herringbone brick road.
I ran a program to look at what good approximations of sqrt(2) are. 12 sqrt(2) is almost 17. The difference in Lego would be 0.235 mm and 0.020 mm per stud. 29 sqrt(2) is almost 41. The difference would be 0.098 mm and 0.003 mm per stud; less than Lego's tolerances.
Huh...i have a whole bunch of those old hollow non transparent parts... They are pretty beat up and discolored (they were hand me downs)...I was just holding onto them maybe thinking about selling them off to someone who really cares about having them in their collection...but this may be a great use and Im glad that I held onto them...great insightful techniques video as always!
You could make it centered and even with a bit more effort, It'd be taller. You can fill a plate with circle studs, and put another plate on top of that, offset by 1/2 a brick. You can then put a facade on top of the edges to hide it
hey, i mentioned this in a channel of your discord server but can you talk about the connection points, and methods of working with, train track pieces (53400)? Considering you've already done 2 series of videos on LEGO parts that don't fit in with the grid system, one more would complete the set right?
with the X couldn't you offset each arm of the X then use the same hollow 1x2 bricks? Offset them, have a 2x2 in the center then attach a 1x"X" and then use a plate to make them part of the same arm, connect them together and that should yield an even base and height.
is it possible to make a 45° by taking a diplo 2x2 brick and placing a lego system 2x2 brick but turn it 45° so that it fits in the gap between all studs?
I’m glad that you liked the idea, I have had it in my head for a few weeks now, but it was only in your last video, that I realized how to explain it so it made sense to others.
This has been such a fun journey to go through with you and the other brick sculptures, just like with the obelisk videos.
I love seeing the solutions that everyone comes up with.
Thanks for the idea!
@@bricksculptno problem, it’s my pleasure.
That was kinda genius dude!
And also not illegal, unless your studs are too close to the end of a transparent block, and could be used for any angle from an integer sized right angle triangle.
so many of the things you've done recently seem so obviously impossible, really fascinating to see what can be done with such simple tools
Thanks!
Trans slider episode and the top comment is someone with a Trans flag pfp. Love to see these things work out.
@@Piman1607 ew
@@minecraftmechanic1 if you don’t have anything positive or useful to say, don’t comment. this is a wholesome channel about LEGO building techniques and cool maths/engineering concepts. kindly, please get out of here with your negativity :)
Trans rights are human rights! 🏳️⚧️
6:02 omg my favorite meaningless emoji 💠
Nice lol
💠💠💠
Not completely meaningless, it's one of the original Japanese emoji, which is (was?) a shorthand for kawaii, you use it to say "that is so cute!"
I send your a message: "What do you think of this teddy bear", and you respond with "Aww 💠", like how most people now would use "😍"
In Unicode it's now "diamond with a dot", but it was initially meant to be viewed as a flower.
@@odw32 I'm not sure you got the reference...
@duckindustries526 you just seem to be a prick about a dude providing information
It gets better by the day. Im really surprised how you can still come up withe more and more techniques. Great work!
Thanks, always tinkering and much help to the comments of my fans!
I think if you put two 2x2 plates with a 2x2 tile on top centered on the middle jumper it would help a lot with spacing for even numbered side lengths!
Interesting! I'll try that out.
Yeah had the same idea. The whole thing will be one plate higher, but it's probably worth it for the even square. Another idea I just had is to sink the middle x one brick deeper, like on the bottom of the mills plate, so that the whole foundation can be only one plate thick.
@@5onderling If you use two plates with studs and then one tile it shouldn't be any higher than the surrounding transparent bricks
Wooooo 🎉 🏳️⚧️ Trans
Gotta love your video titles and the names you give to things!
I'd love to see how this works with both the Sugar Grids and SNOT techniques. Really see how they all play together to make interesting shapes for walls and such.
Yeah we could dive pretty deep on this one lol.
To avoid the odd numbers, just start with two 2x2 plates and a 2x2 tile (all stacked on top of each other) in the middle, rather than a 1x1 brick. Then space the baseplate studs accordingly. This will have the X directly in the center, so you can then use 1x3 jumpers on it to get back into the standard system.
Also, another brick worth considering for this overall method is 3755. It's retired, but not too hard to get ahold of in light bluish gray. Like the trans 1x2 bricks, it lacks bottom tubes, allowing for sliding, but it's three studs long and five bricks high, which could offer some unique opportunities.
That even centered design will leave gaps in the wall, by the way, so you'd want to use a facade around it.
Yeah I need to play with this next
Another option to get an even number surface on the top would be to set down some 2x2 jumper plates and then regular plates on top of them, it would bring the grid a half stud in from every side, making it even
I'm having so much fun watching you figure this all out in real time! Really excellent series!!
Thank you so much!
With the technique that you show at 3:16, you _could_ use a single rounded 1x2 - if the spacing between the attachment points or the angle are close enough to the target. There should only be a tiny amount of stress in the peices. For example you could start wit the 45.23° grid, and use 1x2's on it along the edge to adjust the angle (although really, why would you?). Or you could use studs 3.5;3.5 or 5;5 or 8.5;8.5 apart and use the rounded 1x2's perpendicular to the line of studs to compensate for the stud spacing. But that still leaves you with only a two wall solution.
6:35 if you put the ring if 1 wide bricks around it you can make it an even square by replacing 2 adjacent sides with 2 wide bricks instead
I just found a lot of the transparent red bricks on the PAB wall. After seeing this video I wish I had gotten a lot more.😁👍
An interesting 45 I found recently is the Super Mario baseplates (66792 4x4x2/3, 66789 6x6x2/3, etc.). You can just stick them onto a regular 4x4 plate at 45 degrees, centered and it's an exact fit to
You should be able to get even numbers simply by using a 2x2 in the center with plates attached to the transparent bricks via central tube.
That is a good idea!
Yay trans representation!
You're telling me this slider is trans?
You're telling me this onicle is bi?
No. 😡
🏳️⚧️
@@daytona1073 womp womp🏳️⚧️
This is excellent, so many useful building tips!
Glad to hear that!
what a great way start to my day
the Trans Rights (Angle) method!
That's dumb as fuck bro
You can make the outer walls centered for an even number by offsetting the outer walls by half a stud. For example put jumper plates all along the outer ring on the base and you could connect with 1x3s over a half stud gap, or push the walls in with a half stud indent, like a very narrow ledge around the bottom.
I need to experiment with that but I think you are onto something.
Thanks for sharing, this is cool idea.
Glad you like it!
This is so great! Looks sturdy enough for most applications, I’d love to see a city MOC using this and sugar grids to achieve all sorts of street and building angles. With the plates and bricks with 45 degree angle sides, I wonder how smooth of a surface layer you could make transitioning between the 90 degree grid and the 45.
I forgot to mention in the video it lines up perfect with 45 degree plates.
@@bricksculptthat’s awesome, I didn’t even think about that.
I love watching this series. Learned a lot without losing my own mind in trying to figure out off grid angles. I just wonder how you could incorperate these angles in a MILS plate, using adjacent wedge plates that go on the normal grid? So you won't have like steps to get into a building, to make it flush
Thanks. It will build perfectly into a mils plate with 45 wedges.
You Could also just connect the foundation with one stud in the middle, that way you could have any angle you want.
Great tutorial! I learned a lot from your videos!
You could sink it into a custom baseplate and use jumper plates or 1 by 1 tiles/bricks to make it an even number.
Yeah it would sink into a mills plate nicely
"Preferrably build your basement with odd numbers" where did I already heard it?
Oh, right, Minecraft! :D
Lol
for an even 45 degree square maybe you could try doing a combination of the x thing and the sugar grid type of thing so it’s offset and doesnt have that 1x1 in the middle
How man pieces around the 45° have to be tile? Wasnt sure if the trans bricks would get stuck on any studs if it wasnt tiled right.
Just the ones close to the sliders.
I love the x method, especially since it does have to be 45 degrees, although 45° as I imagine is the strongest base
Alternatively, although with less structural integrity maybe, use a large turntable and some round bricks. Put these at the angle you need and foundation on top, using 2 (e.g. 1x4) plates to hold the whole thing in place.
That's a possibility
My guy here's like, "45 degrees? Challenge accepted." Nice work!
Lol thanks!
At this point, I just want to see a nice build in this method, because it's great. You're great. This channel is great. I don't feel great. Caught a nasty cold virus and I'm tired of it. Last time I caught a cold was 8 years ago on my last trip to Vegas.
Turns out that anything that gets touched by human hands can pass viruses. Dice, cards, chips, doorknobs, elevator buttons, etc. Then going back and forth between 105° outside and 68° inside can wear ya down too.
I hope you feel better soon!!
I hope you get better soon.
More well wishes, take care!! 🙏
Take care Rodd get better
I can't wait to trans-slide
At the moment I’m thinking about ways to connect the foundation, in a more sturdy way to the main plate without using studs, using something like the stem pieces from LEGO Icons botanical collection. LEGO uses so many interesting ways to connect pieces in an organic way, that I’m hoping that I can learn a ton from those techniques to use in MOC building.
make the base X at a slightly smaller size as required (-3 studs)
and then use the nega-studs of a Square plate to top it off
this should leave a 1.5 stud space on the edge of the plate
enough to fill out the edge externaly
or use a Fasad
I like your thinking
This is incredible! Now I guess the only beast to conquer now would be to figure out how to get an aligned even number of studs. I wonder if you could just start with an odd parity like in this video, then put some 2 x 2 jumper plates on top to change the parity of the studs, then put an even numbered facade over the whole thing?
I saw trans, I was called?
im gonna take a wild guess and say you played celeste?
I thought the point was to connect the angled wall to a regular wall seamlessly. Didnt even understand the problem you were trying to solve until you showed the X. Still unsure how you would connect the angled wall to a regular wall, but i guess there's probably a piece out there you could use.
That is another problem to tackle.
For even number of studs you could add 2x2 jumper plate at end of each "cross arm" so there is 0.5 stud offset in each direction?
I've been trying to come up with a way to make a herringbone style brick road as part of a rustic town backdrop, but the square root of two problem has been a major, well, roadblock. This method you've demonstrated may be just what I need.
Are you trying to angle the road?
Yes and no. The appearance of the road is to be straight in line with the rest of the grid, but the plates of the road itself need to be at a 45° angle to achieve the herringbone effect with 1×2 tiles placed atop them. This cross-shaped trans-slider technique should provide adequate structural integrity with the carefully layered plates, and I'll simply hide the gaps where the angle plates at the edges meet the sidewalk with an overhanging curb.
This would all be much simpler if I'd abandon the herringbone brick road idea and align the bricks either horizontal or vertical, but I don't want to compromise at the first sign of a challenge. What I want is a herringbone brick road.
I ran a program to look at what good approximations of sqrt(2) are.
12 sqrt(2) is almost 17. The difference in Lego would be 0.235 mm and 0.020 mm per stud.
29 sqrt(2) is almost 41. The difference would be 0.098 mm and 0.003 mm per stud; less than Lego's tolerances.
Interesting
Huh...i have a whole bunch of those old hollow non transparent parts...
They are pretty beat up and discolored (they were hand me downs)...I was just holding onto them maybe thinking about selling them off to someone who really cares about having them in their collection...but this may be a great use and Im glad that I held onto them...great insightful techniques video as always!
Thank you so much. Glad I found you a use for them.
You could make it centered and even with a bit more effort, It'd be taller. You can fill a plate with circle studs, and put another plate on top of that, offset by 1/2 a brick. You can then put a facade on top of the edges to hide it
Interesting idea, I'll have to try that out!
🏳️⚧️ 🛝R
Love it
Yeah me too.
hey, i mentioned this in a channel of your discord server but can you talk about the connection points, and methods of working with, train track pieces (53400)? Considering you've already done 2 series of videos on LEGO parts that don't fit in with the grid system, one more would complete the set right?
couldn't you easily make it even AND centered by using jumper plates?
I don't think it will be that simple. Jumpers would have to be route 2 length
with the X couldn't you offset each arm of the X then use the same hollow 1x2 bricks? Offset them, have a 2x2 in the center then attach a 1x"X" and then use a plate to make them part of the same arm, connect them together and that should yield an even base and height.
And if you make the plates all different colours you get the Rainbow Slider Method.
is it possible to make a 45° by taking a diplo 2x2 brick and placing a lego system 2x2 brick but turn it 45° so that it fits in the gap between all studs?
I thought the title meant trans like the minority and was very confused til I remembered what the current series is about lmao
TRANS???
It’s just a prefix for a lot of English words, similar to Transcription, Transport, Transparency and so on, so don’t get too excited about it.
As in transparent
@@bricksculpt I adore you man, never change /gen
5 mins! EDIT: I just realized this is the first comment 🎉
Congrats you win!
@5:05 😱uh oh
It's a windmill, chat. It's a windmill.
Math joke: Building with Lego at 45 degree angles is irrational.
😂😂😂😂
Lol yes
yay trans 🏳️⚧️
🏳️⚧️💜