Honestly people like you who break these repairs down in this clear and concise way are doing god's work. Thanks! As always things with springs can be hazardous so specs on at all times!
Thanks for the useful video, I'm doing mine just now. I would add/suggest that extra care needs to be taken while removing the 2 large bolts holding the lower ends of the strut, as it lies just over the CV joint boot - if it drops or slips, it might damage the boot. I found it quite easy to support the strut with one hand while removing the last bolt with the other, then moving the strut out of the way. I also removed the panels between the windscreen and bonnet for easy access to the 3 top nuts, and at the same time, cleaned all the rubbish from the gutters/drain channels!
You helped me fix a problem after installing new struts (but not the spring) where I had not made sure the 3 notches in the upper plastic mount were aligned with the butt of the bolts in the top plate. This made for some very noticeable knocking sounds when going over bumps and turning which disappeared after I aligned them. But before I watched your video and fixed it myself, I brought it into my local Ford dealer and they charged me $195 for a diagnosis that found nothing (confirming my belief that I can do the repairs better with RUclips than even the most qualified and expensive mechanic). Thank you for this awesome video. Your accent sounds Cockney, like my creative writing teacher. Bloody right then. Best of the lot.
Thanks for that, very useful. My front spring on a 2009 Fiesta has just snapped in the same place as yours and I was thinking I needed a special tool for the top strut nut until I saw this. First time replacing a spring so wish me luck.
Fantastic video, thank you! Really helped me when the NSF coil snapped on my 2013 Mk7.5. I replaced both springs and shocks at the front as they were well past their best. All went well apart from not tightening up the top bolt properly on the shocks. Not sure how I missed it, but the suspension rattled badly under compression. Took it all out a second time and tightened them correctly to solve it 👍
I've just had the same with my wife car same part of the coil so I'm guessing they are rubbish coils they put on cars done about 86000 miles great tips thanks for video will help when I do them 👍
Thanks for doing this very informative video. The O/S/F of my 2009 diesel fiesta has snapped. thought about giving it to a garage, but having second thoughts now. I just need a coil spring compression kit and maybe some new Allen keys and I think that should do it. (I have socket sets, and spanners etc.) My only dilemma is not having a car ramp like yours, so it's be an on the ground job for me. I will be replacing both sides as it's best done that way.
Thanks for this video. Very useful for removing the front struts on my Mazda 2 (same chassis), and build the new front strut assemblies to go on the car 👍
Really informative video tells you exactly what you need to know going to be doing mine in the morning as mine has snapped in dame place on same side at 100k miles And just glad its not one of them where the struts sits in the hub clamp, I don't have a spreader tool so am thankful for that 😂 looks pretty straight forward Thanks for the info 👍
@@razenby update: video was a great help went pretty straight forward managed to do both sides in just under 2 hrs! Definitely need more vids like this ones thanks for the help 👍
Is it really a problem if the placement of the dust cover is a little bit off, (let's say the start of the spring is 10 cm off from the beginning of the indentation on the rubber dust cover but still on the right side of the dust cover's indentation). Because now everything has been completely installed. I hope it doesn't affect anything
The 18mm in the video is from a standard ring spanner set. I bought 2 sets from eBay from a supplier in India. One set was low profile set which is very useful for getting to tight places.
Indeed it is. Just did a Alfa Romeo MITO 2012 60K miles with both front springs broken. Possibly more to do with shitty springs than age or potholes. Our B class Mercedes springs were still going at 140K miles but I changed them anyway as they had sagged by an inch. Just make sure you don't fit poor quality as they don't last at all - 60% of the cost of a good spring and a lifetime that is 25% as long.
Hi. I have the same issue. But my mechanik gets covid and I have to wait for him 2 weeks. Could something major happen with a car if I continue to drive without that broken part of spring. (same broken as yours)?
My spring had broke near the end and wasn't sitting visibly lower on one corner. I drove mine around for about a month before I found time to investigate.
I've just replaced 2 top mount but on one of them after releasing the coil clamps it not 'level' like the 1st one, could it be a faulty new top mount, undone and refitted 4 times but still thr same
I understand that this is very common on Ford stock springs. I have met a few people that said the same thing. If I had a Fiesta now I would just change the springs and top swivels at 70K as a service item rather than waiting for them to fail. The struts themselves seem to last Ok.
Is the box the one the springs your fitting came out of ? Or is it the box the springs your talking about at that point in the video came from (the crap ones on your wife's car)?
I cant remember. I just bought the most expensive but not from Euro car parts. I remember I checked which brand Ford use at the factory and bought them. TRW used to always be excellent The trouble is that there are so many take overs and shady reboxing that goes on that it is difficult to decipher who makes what, who is trading on an established brands that they have licenced or bought. With take overs and mergers it is tricky. I just went to the Volvo dealer and bought OEM sprins for my daughters car. I trust TRW for suspension parts for Mercedes but I seem to remember that someone told be that TRW branded springs are not made by TRW. Do a bit of homework and don't buy the cheapest as they are like chewing gum. Two years ago my friend who has a B class Merc (150K miles) and we just bought two complete front struts from a breaker came from low mileage city car (56k) for £80 delivered. Seemed cheaper and really quick to do. Got low mileage struts and springs all assembled which probably have about 70K of life left in them. Now I always consider that option first.
In my experience their suspension springs are of very variable quality. These days It is difficult to say where the the parts are sourced because so many of them are badged parts. I buy TRW if I can get them.
Honestly people like you who break these repairs down in this clear and concise way are doing god's work. Thanks!
As always things with springs can be hazardous so specs on at all times!
Dealing with springs is always butt- clenching a pair of brown trousers is advisable. Thanks for watching. Glad it was useful.
Thanks for the useful video, I'm doing mine just now. I would add/suggest that extra care needs to be taken while removing the 2 large bolts holding the lower ends of the strut, as it lies just over the CV joint boot - if it drops or slips, it might damage the boot. I found it quite easy to support the strut with one hand while removing the last bolt with the other, then moving the strut out of the way. I also removed the panels between the windscreen and bonnet for easy access to the 3 top nuts, and at the same time, cleaned all the rubbish from the gutters/drain channels!
Thanks for the tip and tanks for watching.
You helped me fix a problem after installing new struts (but not the spring) where I had not made sure the 3 notches in the upper plastic mount were aligned with the butt of the bolts in the top plate. This made for some very noticeable knocking sounds when going over bumps and turning which disappeared after I aligned them. But before I watched your video and fixed it myself, I brought it into my local Ford dealer and they charged me $195 for a diagnosis that found nothing (confirming my belief that I can do the repairs better with RUclips than even the most qualified and expensive mechanic). Thank you for this awesome video. Your accent sounds Cockney, like my creative writing teacher. Bloody right then. Best of the lot.
Great to hear that it was useful and thanks for the comments. I don't trust car mechanics. They charge too much.
Great Video!!! Exact same fault on 10yr old Fiesta at 108,000 miles. Thanks for filming in such detail.
Please you found it useful. The top strut bearings are weak but changing them makes a huge difference to the driving experience.
Thanks for that, very useful. My front spring on a 2009 Fiesta has just snapped in the same place as yours and I was thinking I needed a special tool for the top strut nut until I saw this. First time replacing a spring so wish me luck.
Good luck!!
Fantastic video, thank you! Really helped me when the NSF coil snapped on my 2013 Mk7.5. I replaced both springs and shocks at the front as they were well past their best. All went well apart from not tightening up the top bolt properly on the shocks. Not sure how I missed it, but the suspension rattled badly under compression. Took it all out a second time and tightened them correctly to solve it 👍
Great to hear! and thanks for watching. . Please remember to like and subscribe.
I've just had the same with my wife car same part of the coil so I'm guessing they are rubbish coils they put on cars done about 86000 miles great tips thanks for video will help when I do them 👍
You are welcome. Good luck.
Thanks for doing this very informative video. The O/S/F of my 2009 diesel fiesta has snapped. thought about giving it to a garage, but having second thoughts now. I just need a coil spring compression kit and maybe some new Allen keys and I think that should do it. (I have socket sets, and spanners etc.) My only dilemma is not having a car ramp like yours, so it's be an on the ground job for me. I will be replacing both sides as it's best done that way.
No problem. Go for it! Good luck.
Thanks for this video. Very useful for removing the front struts on my Mazda 2 (same chassis), and build the new front strut assemblies to go on the car 👍
Glad it helped
Really informative video tells you exactly what you need to know going to be doing mine in the morning as mine has snapped in dame place on same side at 100k miles
And just glad its not one of them where the struts sits in the hub clamp, I don't have a spreader tool so am thankful for that 😂 looks pretty straight forward
Thanks for the info 👍
You are welcome. Good luck with it.
@@razenby update: video was a great help went pretty straight forward managed to do both sides in just under 2 hrs! Definitely need more vids like this ones thanks for the help 👍
Hi can the 19m spanner fix well for the top mouth bolt removal
Either 198,18 or 17 - I cant remember, Sorry.
Wjat springs brand can you recommend for long lasting purpose?
TRW brand.
Is it really a problem if the placement of the dust cover is a little bit off, (let's say the start of the spring is 10 cm off from the beginning of the indentation on the rubber dust cover but still on the right side of the dust cover's indentation). Because now everything has been completely installed.
I hope it doesn't affect anything
Thanks for watching.
@@razenby so what's the answer?
Hey just wondering what the degree on the 18 mm wrench your using ?
The 18mm in the video is from a standard ring spanner set. I bought 2 sets from eBay from a supplier in India. One set was low profile set which is very useful for getting to tight places.
Great instructions, must be common problem on 10yr old cars or its the UK potholes 😂
Indeed it is. Just did a Alfa Romeo MITO 2012 60K miles with both front springs broken. Possibly more to do with shitty springs than age or potholes. Our B class Mercedes springs were still going at 140K miles but I changed them anyway as they had sagged by an inch. Just make sure you don't fit poor quality as they don't last at all - 60% of the cost of a good spring and a lifetime that is 25% as long.
Hi. I have the same issue. But my mechanik gets covid and I have to wait for him 2 weeks. Could something major happen with a car if I continue to drive without that broken part of spring. (same broken as yours)?
My spring had broke near the end and wasn't sitting visibly lower on one corner. I drove mine around for about a month before I found time to investigate.
Hello. Does it matter how much you tighten that top nut ?
No, difficult to tighten too tight as it is strong steel. If in doubt look up the tightening torque,
@@razenby Thank you.
@@razenby One more q please.
Do those there bolts have to be în the same position, as original ?
Because i forgot to mark them.
I've just replaced 2 top mount but on one of them after releasing the coil clamps it not 'level' like the 1st one, could it be a faulty new top mount, undone and refitted 4 times but still thr same
It's easier if you loosen the strut top nut half a turn while it's still fitted to the car
Great tip. Thanks.
you did"nt mention testing the strut, after the old spring was removed!
No the strut was good. never had to change one on the Fiesta in 150K miles. Thanks for watching.
Great vid, thanks!
No problem!
This happen to my zetec s last week literally the same piece snapped
I understand that this is very common on Ford stock springs. I have met a few people that said the same thing. If I had a Fiesta now I would just change the springs and top swivels at 70K as a service item rather than waiting for them to fail. The struts themselves seem to last Ok.
How do you get the nut at the back
At the back of what?
@@razenby it was the nut at the back at the top of the strut . I can get the other two ok but struggling to get the back one
@@johnfisher7587 I used a low profile ratchet flexi end combination spanner. just search that on eBay and you will see what I mean.
Excellent, thanks
You are welcome.
Is the box the one the springs your fitting came out of ? Or is it the box the springs your talking about at that point in the video came from (the crap ones on your wife's car)?
I cant remember. I just bought the most expensive but not from Euro car parts. I remember I checked which brand Ford use at the factory and bought them. TRW used to always be excellent The trouble is that there are so many take overs and shady reboxing that goes on that it is difficult to decipher who makes what, who is trading on an established brands that they have licenced or bought. With take overs and mergers it is tricky. I just went to the Volvo dealer and bought OEM sprins for my daughters car. I trust TRW for suspension parts for Mercedes but I seem to remember that someone told be that TRW branded springs are not made by TRW. Do a bit of homework and don't buy the cheapest as they are like chewing gum. Two years ago my friend who has a B class Merc (150K miles) and we just bought two complete front struts from a breaker came from low mileage city car (56k) for £80 delivered. Seemed cheaper and really quick to do. Got low mileage struts and springs all assembled which probably have about 70K of life left in them. Now I always consider that option first.
I just started. But after only 380000km, some bolts are difficult to remove so far.
Good luck.. You may need a longer wrench.
Did you do an alignment afterwards?
Interesting because lots of BMW owners think Eurocarparts sell OEM quality?
In my experience their suspension springs are of very variable quality. These days It is difficult to say where the the parts are sourced because so many of them are badged parts. I buy TRW if I can get them.