Thank you. I hope you also have a look at the Instructables tutorial version, which has yet more details (link is above in the "more..." notes.) YOU CAN DO IT!
Thanks for this video, I’m trying to do a carving of the Hawaiian islands but touch terrain seems to have a problem with google maps now. I sent a message off to the developers we will see if they get it fixed. I really liked your explanation of climb vs conventional carving.
I hope they fix the problem. In the meantime, you can zoom way out, drag over to Hawai'i, and zoom back in, then click Recenter Box on Map to get the island(s) you want.
Amazing work sir! This is exactly what I needed information on as I am doing a cribbage board for a friend that is of a lake and surrounding terrain. That is a longgggg carve!
Excellent Video Steve, I do a lot of photo Vcarves on my MPCNC, this video has inspired me to try Terrain carving, might be good to try on my nearly finished Lowrider3.
This was a brilliant review of the whole process. I'd like to be able to make a terrain profile and then add on any hiking route in some way, so it depicts where people walked. Making the route as a v-carve or profile doesn't look good. I've considered a laser, but these can only focus to a single point, so up down terrain doesn't work. Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks! I would use a fine (say 1mm) endmill and VcarvePro to overlay the hike onto the 3D model. If you have a Z axis for a cutter, then strapping on an engraving laser to the Z mount to control the focus precisely would work, too.
Good question! For water at sea level, use the lower_leq option as described at 5:15. If it is a lake like this, I had to trace its outline in VcarvePro, and use that vector to create a separate pocket toolpath that is about 3mm (or however thick you want the resin) below the Z height of the shore.
I traced it manually, but if you have a good image of the lake, you might use the Trace Bitmap tool in VcarvePro (or other graphics program) to create the lake outline vector automatically.
OK, I see, so if the lake level is at or very close to the lowest point I could set that as “sea level” and go from there. Otherwise it looks like I can get a good image off of the “map” function that would be scaled properly. Probably carve the lake first? Anyway the program was fun to fool around with. Thanks Steve!
Hello Professor, thank you so much for this informative & in-depth tutorial, I'm very excited to make some models. I was initially looking at acquiring a compact router with my machine. However, after watching your video and the length of time the finishing toolpath takes, I'm concerned the compact router would overheat. Have you used a compact router for any model carving or spindle-only? Thanks again.
I have done some very long runs on my Handibot, which has an air-cooled Dewalt palm router. As long as the air holes don't plug, you should be OK. Blow them out with compressed air.
Of course with a brushed motor in palm routers, esp if you do long runs, you must look out for brush wear (they will spark a lot) and replace them as needed. Another advantage of spindles: no brushes to wear out!
From my Instructable linked above, which has a bit more info: I use the “lower_leq”:(0,3) option to create a 3mm cliff around the shoreline down to the seabed, for filling with resin. Use the quotation marks, and note that it is "lower_leq", not "lower_leg".
The finishing pass can have a very large depth because the stepover is so slight (7-15%). There is very little force on the tapered ball nose bit, so no need to clean it up with more than one pass. I believe I left 2mm with the roughing pass for the finishing bit to remove.
The MPCNC Primo kit by V1 Engineering is what I built. Fantastically capable for the money (about $1000 with my options and additions). But that is for hackers who like to make stuff. Any CNC router or mill can do terrain carvings. Other RUclipsrs compare cheap CNCs that come built or are easily put together.
@professorstevepotter Your video is very thorough. I am in the US so there are minor differences but it is very informative. Why do you prefer Vcarve Pro?
@@tylertalbott8136 Have a read of Appendix 3: VcarvePro Vs. Fusion360 in my Instructable, www.instructables.com/Carving-3D-Terrain-Topographic-Relief-Maps-on-a-CN/
I truly appreciate the time you put into these details!! It makes me feel like I can possibly do this!
Thank you. I hope you also have a look at the Instructables tutorial version, which has yet more details (link is above in the "more..." notes.) YOU CAN DO IT!
Very thorough. I am tempted to give this a shot...I even have some epoxy sitting right here. Thanks Professor!
a really good explained tutorial!
Thanks for this video, I’m trying to do a carving of the Hawaiian islands but touch terrain seems to have a problem with google maps now. I sent a message off to the developers we will see if they get it fixed. I really liked your explanation of climb vs conventional carving.
I hope they fix the problem. In the meantime, you can zoom way out, drag over to Hawai'i, and zoom back in, then click Recenter Box on Map to get the island(s) you want.
Thank you for taking the time to put this thoughtful video together!
Amazing work sir! This is exactly what I needed information on as I am doing a cribbage board for a friend that is of a lake and surrounding terrain. That is a longgggg carve!
Excellent Video Steve, I do a lot of photo Vcarves on my MPCNC, this video has inspired me to try Terrain carving, might be good to try on my nearly finished Lowrider3.
Well explained tutorial, Thank you!
Thanks for sharing, easy to follow.
Very detailed video of the process, thanks!!
Thanks foor the quick reply
Cheers
This was a brilliant review of the whole process. I'd like to be able to make a terrain profile and then add on any hiking route in some way, so it depicts where people walked. Making the route as a v-carve or profile doesn't look good. I've considered a laser, but these can only focus to a single point, so up down terrain doesn't work. Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks! I would use a fine (say 1mm) endmill and VcarvePro to overlay the hike onto the 3D model. If you have a Z axis for a cutter, then strapping on an engraving laser to the Z mount to control the focus precisely would work, too.
Great tutorial. Question: since the surface of the water is flat how do you program to carve out of that area for your resin pour?
Good question! For water at sea level, use the lower_leq option as described at 5:15. If it is a lake like this, I had to trace its outline in VcarvePro, and use that vector to create a separate pocket toolpath that is about 3mm (or however thick you want the resin) below the Z height of the shore.
I traced it manually, but if you have a good image of the lake, you might use the Trace Bitmap tool in VcarvePro (or other graphics program) to create the lake outline vector automatically.
OK, I see, so if the lake level is at or very close to the lowest point I could set that as “sea level” and go from there. Otherwise it looks like I can get a good image off of the “map” function that would be scaled properly. Probably carve the lake first? Anyway the program was fun to fool around with. Thanks Steve!
Hello Professor, thank you so much for this informative & in-depth tutorial, I'm very excited to make some models. I was initially looking at acquiring a compact router with my machine. However, after watching your video and the length of time the finishing toolpath takes, I'm concerned the compact router would overheat. Have you used a compact router for any model carving or spindle-only? Thanks again.
I have done some very long runs on my Handibot, which has an air-cooled Dewalt palm router. As long as the air holes don't plug, you should be OK. Blow them out with compressed air.
@@professorstevepotter Thank you for your reply! 😁
Of course with a brushed motor in palm routers, esp if you do long runs, you must look out for brush wear (they will spark a lot) and replace them as needed. Another advantage of spindles: no brushes to wear out!
Hi STEVE..... So, in regards to the "manual settigs", do you type in the box "lower_leg":(0,3)?
From my Instructable linked above, which has a bit more info: I use the “lower_leq”:(0,3) option to create a 3mm cliff around the shoreline down to the seabed, for filling with resin.
Use the quotation marks, and note that it is "lower_leq", not "lower_leg".
Hi, how come there is no stepdown option for the finishing pass with ballnose? Do you remember what you used? Thanks
The finishing pass can have a very large depth because the stepover is so slight (7-15%). There is very little force on the tapered ball nose bit, so no need to clean it up with more than one pass. I believe I left 2mm with the roughing pass for the finishing bit to remove.
Thank you!@@professorstevepotter
What type of cnc machine would you recommend for doing this? Any specific budget friendly brands?
The MPCNC Primo kit by V1 Engineering is what I built. Fantastically capable for the money (about $1000 with my options and additions). But that is for hackers who like to make stuff. Any CNC router or mill can do terrain carvings. Other RUclipsrs compare cheap CNCs that come built or are easily put together.
@professorstevepotter Your video is very thorough. I am in the US so there are minor differences but it is very informative. Why do you prefer Vcarve Pro?
@@tylertalbott8136 Have a read of Appendix 3: VcarvePro Vs. Fusion360 in my Instructable,
www.instructables.com/Carving-3D-Terrain-Topographic-Relief-Maps-on-a-CN/