I worked at volvo dealer and when we did swirl flaps the egr throttle body was choked up I could see in video in rubber hose all the black nasty stuff I would always clean it out I use to use Mr oven cleaner but use the wynns dpf cleaning fluid cleans the up like new
Finally a job on my car! nice work! luckily my swirl flaps had already been done before owning the vehicle. i do have a very deep vibration noise that is very annoying. it stops when the auxiliary belt is removed and then started up. naturally I changed the aux pulley tensioner and replaced it with a new one and belt but it didn't solve the issue. i am thinking it could be the alternator pully now so I've been told? 190k and still going strong. Ned Flanders x
I know this is 6 months ago but did you sort it? it could be the harmonic damper (crank pulley) perhaps. They are made of two separate pieces with rubber in between if the rubber is compromised they can wobble, with no tension on the alternator belt it assumes it's normal position and the wobble goes...just a thought
Awesome video. Just this morning seen the arm to my swirl flaps has come off, leading to a sluggish engine. Very good comprehensive video and the cleaning of the silicone was soooooo satisfying! ,😎
@@jpowist if refering to the swirl flap actuator arm, then yes. This sits external of the swirl flaps and is under the engine block cover to the left of the dipstick (on a 2011 D5 engine). Would recommend getting a new arm if it's disconnected at the plastic is likely to have worn. The arms are about £8 on eBay.
@@jpowist that's the million dollar question. Two trains of thought: 1: The plastic becomes rigid and just fails after X amount of time. 2: Resistance is building around the swirl flaps that mean they could be getting clogged? For reference my car had 140k miles on the clock. The actuator arm had broken for a while (approx a year) before it came to my attention as being something important (shout out to the AA that said it wasn't for anything major). I then started to notice black sludge around the area of the arm connector and loss of power within the car and yellow/red warning lights. I'd start with replacing the arm and see how you go. My car managed a year before I had to bite the bullet and replace the swirl flaps. Easy job to be fair IF (and it's a BIG if) the injectors come out on their own accord.
You have trashed the injector yourself. I hope you did not charge the customer for the replacement injector. On a Volvo D5 injector When you take the solenoid off the top you have to remove all the little bits left in side of the injector before trying to remove the injector, as there are some tiny bits inside the top of the injector, that get knocked out of position when you use the slide hammer. When I say tiny i mean tiny. there is a metal ball for leak back valve in there which is about 0.5mm ball bearing with a spring on top and a plunger and plate, a spacer washer and a internal nut. You have to remove all these parts and refit afterwards otherwise when you put the solenoid valve back on the top, these parts of the leak back valve will inevitably be out of place and these parts get crushed in the wrong position when the solenoid is screwed back on. the injector is now trashed and the leak back test will fail as yours did. I know this because I have done this to 3 stuck injectors in my D5 engine. I trashed 3 injectors doing this. This was a very expensive leaning curve. This damage to the injector can be completely avoided if you take all the little parts out of the injector from underneath the solenoid head, before start wacking the slide hammer. Plus if you trash the injectors and need to replace them you have to get the replacement injectors coded to the engine ECU. Using the number stamped on the side of the replacement injector. You do this with Vida software and dice connection box. Plus a day license to use the t5d5.com software. You don't have to take it to Volvo dealer to get the injectors coded.
🤣i hope your joking right how fuck can parts fly out when you screw the adapter straight onto the injector HOW ? xD unless yours can fly true metal for some magical reason
This time the arm had failed that controls them, they can cause all sorts of faults, low performance ect and also seen them snap off and total an engine
Hi, thanks for the video! Question please, why no silicon on the valve cover gasket? By the way, I left the old rubber from the swirl flap on the stick. I guess that was not good, because motor oil is dripping out by the throttle link shaft, is that possible?
Hello, I have a question: is the injector you ordered coded? and how can I order it because I'm afraid I may have the same problem as in your video, thank you and best regards
Nur so aus Interesse 🤔 Volvo schreibt ja vor, das die Dieselleitungen und die Injektorhalterungen neu müssen. Hast du offensichtlich nicht gemacht, daher meine Frage ob alles dicht ist oder es irgendwelche Leckagen gibt? Ich muss das auch noch machen und habe bisher nur die Drallklappe, den Arm und die Ventildeckeldichtung liegen. Kann ich mir die anderen Teile jetzt einfach sparen?
nice and well editted, good work :) many people opt to removing the swirl flaps all together, is there a negative in doing that apart from probs higher emissions?
Hello, I have a volvo xc90 2.4 d awd 185 cv from 2007 and it appears (gestion moteur demande repair) and it no longer pulls well, go into protection, I think it is the swirl flaps that are defective, please where can I buy the compet putty to repair them, thank you
Hello I seem to have a same issue - when I go over 2500 rpm and let gas pedal go makes weird noise and not accelerates properly. Sometimes yes sometimes not.. weird - did you fix your issue and can you advice? Thank you
Great video, really awesome to see what it’s actually like when you send your car into a shop. Seems like you guys have a tool for every job. I have a V70, fairly sure it’s the same engine or at least very similar. The little plastic arm on mine keeps coming off and I have to pop it back on. It’s my first car and I am a student so can’t afford to take it to the garage unless it really needs it. Should I take mine apart like you have done is this video to check that the flaps are still functioning as they should and aren’t too corroded? Going to order another plastic arm either way so hopefully it stays on. Thanks for you help!
@@bazmeredithhow quickly does this need sorting? The arm on mine had not been working for a while (it had broken, AA didn't know what it was for 🤦 and neither did I at the time). I now have black oily crud coming from that area (directly underneath the oil filler cap and where the arm linkage is). Would a swirl flap deletion be an option, a garage to me local said it is, but I've read that they are needed for emissions and to be road legal?
@@leegregory844 it's always best to put it back to how it should be.... You'll be getting poor performance and poor fuel economy... And in some occasions a eml light. . any fault need rectifying as soon as
@@bazmeredith cheers for the reply pal. Thought it would be the sort of thing not to ignore. Just have to hope the sofa has some big ass notes stuffed down there somewhere now! 💷💷💷💷💷😭😭😂😂😂
I worked at volvo dealer and when we did swirl flaps the egr throttle body was choked up I could see in video in rubber hose all the black nasty stuff I would always clean it out I use to use Mr oven cleaner but use the wynns dpf cleaning fluid cleans the up like new
Great job as usual Baz. She's runs like a dream now.
Finally a job on my car! nice work! luckily my swirl flaps had already been done before owning the vehicle. i do have a very deep vibration noise that is very annoying. it stops when the auxiliary belt is removed and then started up. naturally I changed the aux pulley tensioner and replaced it with a new one and belt but it didn't solve the issue. i am thinking it could be the alternator pully now so I've been told? 190k and still going strong. Ned Flanders x
I know this is 6 months ago but did you sort it? it could be the harmonic damper (crank pulley) perhaps. They are made of two separate pieces with rubber in between if the rubber is compromised they can wobble, with no tension on the alternator belt it assumes it's normal position and the wobble goes...just a thought
Awesome video. Just this morning seen the arm to my swirl flaps has come off, leading to a sluggish engine.
Very good comprehensive video and the cleaning of the silicone was soooooo satisfying! ,😎
Is it possible to reconnect the swirl arm without pulling the head off and replacing the swirl flaps?
@@jpowist if refering to the swirl flap actuator arm, then yes. This sits external of the swirl flaps and is under the engine block cover to the left of the dipstick (on a 2011 D5 engine).
Would recommend getting a new arm if it's disconnected at the plastic is likely to have worn. The arms are about £8 on eBay.
@@leegregory844 thanks! Is the reason it's broken likely due to something wrong with the flaps? Or just wear and tear?
@@jpowist that's the million dollar question. Two trains of thought:
1: The plastic becomes rigid and just fails after X amount of time.
2: Resistance is building around the swirl flaps that mean they could be getting clogged?
For reference my car had 140k miles on the clock. The actuator arm had broken for a while (approx a year) before it came to my attention as being something important (shout out to the AA that said it wasn't for anything major).
I then started to notice black sludge around the area of the arm connector and loss of power within the car and yellow/red warning lights.
I'd start with replacing the arm and see how you go. My car managed a year before I had to bite the bullet and replace the swirl flaps.
Easy job to be fair IF (and it's a BIG if) the injectors come out on their own accord.
Great video clear and concise.
Thank you
@@bazmeredith great video! Is it possible to just reconnect the swirl arm without taking the head off and replacing all the swirl flaps?
@@jpowist it just pops off in time may last a week or may just last an ignition cycle
Love the use of ‘Minging ‘ good Scottish 🏴 word Baz😁
Top job. The head cover looked factory new after you removed the silicone .
If you're going to do it, do it properly 💪
Recently did this on my own v70 as no local garages would do it and Volvo wanted £1170. Cost me around £200 for swirl flaps and new injector clamps
It's simple enough, providing the injectors come out easy
Great video's Baz, thank you for posting excellent content..
You have trashed the injector yourself.
I hope you did not charge the customer for the replacement injector.
On a Volvo D5 injector
When you take the solenoid off the top you have to remove all the little bits left in side of the injector before trying to remove the injector, as there are some tiny bits inside the top of the injector, that get knocked out of position when you use the slide hammer.
When I say tiny i mean tiny. there is a metal ball for leak back valve in there which is about 0.5mm ball bearing with a spring on top and a plunger and plate, a spacer washer and a internal nut.
You have to remove all these parts and refit afterwards otherwise when you put the solenoid valve back on the top, these parts of the leak back valve will inevitably be out of place and these parts get crushed in the wrong position when the solenoid is screwed back on.
the injector is now trashed and the leak back test will fail as yours did.
I know this because I have done this to 3 stuck injectors in my D5 engine. I trashed 3 injectors doing this.
This was a very expensive leaning curve.
This damage to the injector can be completely avoided if you take all the little parts out of the injector from underneath the solenoid head, before start wacking the slide hammer.
Plus if you trash the injectors and need to replace them you have to get the replacement injectors coded to the engine ECU. Using the number stamped on the side of the replacement injector.
You do this with Vida software and dice connection box.
Plus a day license to use the t5d5.com software.
You don't have to take it to Volvo dealer to get the injectors coded.
🤣i hope your joking right how fuck can parts fly out when you screw the adapter straight onto the injector HOW ? xD unless yours can fly true metal for some magical reason
Well done pal love the videos 👍
Well done great video.
My 95 year aunt said her swirl flaps are fine, thank you.
Would be interesting to know how much this specific job cost.
Great video, just what I needed.....thankyou :)
Great job.
Held the F word in well at 4:37 😂
Tbh I do really well while making content 😂😂😂
Nice video but should go step by step as theres alot of amateurs that dont know how to remove some things you skipped on the video.
Many thanks, very helpful..
love the videos what are the symptoms of the swirl caps
This time the arm had failed that controls them, they can cause all sorts of faults, low performance ect and also seen them snap off and total an engine
Hi, thanks for the video! Question please, why no silicon on the valve cover gasket? By the way, I left the old rubber from the swirl flap on the stick. I guess that was not good, because motor oil is dripping out by the throttle link shaft, is that possible?
Hello, I have a question: is the injector you ordered coded? and how can I order it because I'm afraid I may have the same problem as in your video, thank you and best regards
Nur so aus Interesse 🤔 Volvo schreibt ja vor, das die Dieselleitungen und die Injektorhalterungen neu müssen. Hast du offensichtlich nicht gemacht, daher meine Frage ob alles dicht ist oder es irgendwelche Leckagen gibt?
Ich muss das auch noch machen und habe bisher nur die Drallklappe, den Arm und die Ventildeckeldichtung liegen. Kann ich mir die anderen Teile jetzt einfach sparen?
nice and well editted, good work :)
many people opt to removing the swirl flaps all together, is there a negative in doing that apart from probs higher emissions?
Hello, I have a volvo xc90 2.4 d awd 185 cv from 2007 and it appears (gestion moteur demande repair) and it no longer pulls well, go into protection, I think it is the swirl flaps that are defective, please where can I buy the compet putty to repair them, thank you
Hello I seem to have a same issue - when I go over 2500 rpm and let gas pedal go makes weird noise and not accelerates properly. Sometimes yes sometimes not.. weird - did you fix your issue and can you advice? Thank you
Nice one….
Great video, really awesome to see what it’s actually like when you send your car into a shop. Seems like you guys have a tool for every job.
I have a V70, fairly sure it’s the same engine or at least very similar. The little plastic arm on mine keeps coming off and I have to pop it back on. It’s my first car and I am a student so can’t afford to take it to the garage unless it really needs it. Should I take mine apart like you have done is this video to check that the flaps are still functioning as they should and aren’t too corroded?
Going to order another plastic arm either way so hopefully it stays on.
Thanks for you help!
remove them
People don’t the ‘silicone or no silicone’ 🤦🏽♂️
can I ask how much it cost to have the swirl flaps done please
Unfortunately I didn't do the bill on this one, providing the injectors come out ok probably be about £450 ISH at a guess
@@bazmeredithhow quickly does this need sorting? The arm on mine had not been working for a while (it had broken, AA didn't know what it was for 🤦 and neither did I at the time).
I now have black oily crud coming from that area (directly underneath the oil filler cap and where the arm linkage is).
Would a swirl flap deletion be an option, a garage to me local said it is, but I've read that they are needed for emissions and to be road legal?
@@leegregory844 it's always best to put it back to how it should be.... You'll be getting poor performance and poor fuel economy... And in some occasions a eml light. . any fault need rectifying as soon as
@@bazmeredith cheers for the reply pal. Thought it would be the sort of thing not to ignore. Just have to hope the sofa has some big ass notes stuffed down there somewhere now! 💷💷💷💷💷😭😭😂😂😂
Is it your garage pal
No it's not