As soon as you touched that bowl I went "WHAT??? NO WAY" - LOL. when you dropped that whatever I thought "welcome to my world". Watching you has got me talking to myself out loud. Thanks for sharing!!
Globe MArine might make a "Run Dry" impeller for your engine. They can run dry for 90 seconds with no ill effects, are three times more durable, and last three times as long. They only cost almost twice as much too. They save some time tearing things down and save the impeller if you don't get to the sea cock for the cooling water fast enough. Also throw some silicone grease in there so there is a little extra lubrication in there, most rebuild kits come with the stuff now. As a side note, I'd get an entirely new starter with solenoid as a spare if you are taking any big trips. They go out all the time from corrosion issues. You should submit an addendum to the manual. If you pull out the shaft, try tapping and rotating till it reseats itself, and you may save yourself doing the 50 steps in the next three pages.
Good advice! I lubed it with dish soap since I forgot the grease. We might only use the motor (according to our fuel usage) maybe 18-20 hours each year.
Awesome stuff. Keep posting these videos!! It would be interesting and informative to see what the coil resistance is comparing the old solenoid to the new solenoid. The coil in the solenoid has an enamel coating that can burn off and cause the coil to short with itself, causing a different (lower) resistance. That would cause the solenoid to not have enough power to move the shaft of the solenoid.
Your videos just crack me up. Love it. Regarding what happens inside the solenoid...i made a video called "emergency solenoid repairs in the field". It shows how to test with a meter and then how to take apart and repair. Although some dont come apart and reassemble easily. Thanks for the great video. And still looking fwd to they Keys trip.
In the back of the solenoid where the electrical contacts are is usually a copper disk that shorts the two contacts together whenever the solenoid is energized, the same as bridging the contacts with a screwdriver. Sometimes you can take the solenoid apart and clean the disk of the corrosion and make it work like new again. I would do that and then keep it as an emergency backup for when the new solenoid has this same issue in the future.
@@AdventuresInParadise oh well. Pack some Emory cloth or VERY fine sand paper to use in an emergency on the existing solenoid, or buy a back up. If it happened once it’ll happen again and usually at the worst time possible.
hi. i also had trouble starting. i replaced the 2 push buttons on the control panel and problem as instantly corrected. i thought it was the stater as it clicked as yours did. i bough a replacement starter and solenoid. still in the box
Your solenoid has a pair of contacts that touch together to complete the circuit when the solenoid is activated. Over time these contacts get worn down with use and don't connect properly.
In the U.S.A, do you have to register the tender to the boat ?. Because all we do hear in Australia, we just put T T tender to rego number of boat. There may be an buildup of corosion inside as that happened on the starter saliniod on my motor, the mechanic told me. So that may have happened. I hope you go out for a few days over the holidays. Merry christmas, Gerard.
Great video. I've tried two times to share a website that describes a problem with the Universal diesel control panel wiring, but neither comment has shown up. Now I'm curious if my previous comments broke a rule. Anyway, if this one gets posted I can share some work that was done to modify the starter circuit on the Universal diesel. It is something that could cause the solenoid to not fully engage or the starter to have reduced turning power due to excessive voltage drop on the starter circuit.
Can you please email me that at adventuresinparadiseFL@gmail.com ? But I already have done all the panel and wiring modifications a I believe I've read those same articles. Either way it's working well with the new solenoid. I got rid of the trailer connector and the mods to the control panel were done by the prev. owner. Thanks for the help!
@@AdventuresInParadise I just sent you an email (although I added an "e" to "...paradis...". I suspect you already know the link I was trying to share. Thanks for your reply!
Generuly, when we sell an boat, we have to transfer the rego over to the new oweners and as the dinghy is part of the boat, it gose with the boat. So nothing to worry about only if you think you are going beyond the 1nm limet then you will have to have seprate regostration. Ligts, ect ect, With motors up to 4 hp, no reg and lic, six hp the dinghy needs rego, over six, rego and lic is required even if you have rego you wil need an lic even for an sailboat. I have an compente crew certificate and recreational marine drivers lic Gerard.
Here in Florida, these are the rules: All vessels, with the exception of non-motor-powered vessels less than 16 feet in length, non-motor-powered canoes, kayaks, racing shells or rowing sculls, regardless of length, must be registered through your local Tax Collector's Office. So basically, if it's got a motor, you have to register it as a separate boat. On the other side, no license or training is required to operate a boat here.
If you take off a old hose old fan belt bolt washer nut screw it is safer to use new your fan belt that holds it's shape hard and brittle keep all spair parts in zip lock bags moisture will get in everything rotate all spair parts keep old for emergency
Hear in Australia, if you are with in 1 nm, of the mother ship, you only need is tender to and the rego number of the mother ship as long as the motor on the tender is no more than 4 hp. You do not have that as law in the U.S.A. ?. Gerard.
I like that it seems a better rule, but I guess the #'s can help prevent theft also.. since not only would your numbers be on the boat, but the new owner would not be able to register it or have a current non-expired tag.
Glad you got that fixed!!
Love watching these maintenance videos, Thank You!!!
Thanks!
As soon as you touched that bowl I went "WHAT??? NO WAY" - LOL. when you dropped that whatever I thought "welcome to my world". Watching you has got me talking to myself out loud. Thanks for sharing!!
Try recording yourself Iike I do. I have entire conversations with myself that i didn't even realize before I had the camera rolling!
Globe MArine might make a "Run Dry" impeller for your engine. They can run dry for 90 seconds with no ill effects, are three times more durable, and last three times as long. They only cost almost twice as much too. They save some time tearing things down and save the impeller if you don't get to the sea cock for the cooling water fast enough. Also throw some silicone grease in there so there is a little extra lubrication in there, most rebuild kits come with the stuff now. As a side note, I'd get an entirely new starter with solenoid as a spare if you are taking any big trips. They go out all the time from corrosion issues. You should submit an addendum to the manual. If you pull out the shaft, try tapping and rotating till it reseats itself, and you may save yourself doing the 50 steps in the next three pages.
Good advice! I lubed it with dish soap since I forgot the grease. We might only use the motor (according to our fuel usage) maybe 18-20 hours each year.
@@AdventuresInParadise We spent three months in the Bahamas and only used 200 in fuel in three months
We all mess up from time to time, good save though!
Hope its fixed..we will see
Whenever I’ve seen others replace the impeller they’ve put a bunch of glycerin on it to help lube it. Glad you got the solenoid issue sorted!
I forgot my lube so I used dish soap, which is said to work fine for the initial running also.
Great vid dude
Awesome stuff. Keep posting these videos!! It would be interesting and informative to see what the coil resistance is comparing the old solenoid to the new solenoid. The coil in the solenoid has an enamel coating that can burn off and cause the coil to short with itself, causing a different (lower) resistance. That would cause the solenoid to not have enough power to move the shaft of the solenoid.
Interesting. I wish I had kept the old one, but I tossed it.
Your videos just crack me up. Love it. Regarding what happens inside the solenoid...i made a video called "emergency solenoid repairs in the field". It shows how to test with a meter and then how to take apart and repair. Although some dont come apart and reassemble easily. Thanks for the great video. And still looking fwd to they Keys trip.
In the back of the solenoid where the electrical contacts are is usually a copper disk that shorts the two contacts together whenever the solenoid is energized, the same as bridging the contacts with a screwdriver. Sometimes you can take the solenoid apart and clean the disk of the corrosion and make it work like new again. I would do that and then keep it as an emergency backup for when the new solenoid has this same issue in the future.
I threw it away already, oh well.
@@AdventuresInParadise oh well. Pack some Emory cloth or VERY fine sand paper to use in an emergency on the existing solenoid, or buy a back up. If it happened once it’ll happen again and usually at the worst time possible.
9:07 you could have just heated the open can or just eat it cold right out of the can, but some like a hot meal.
hi. i also had trouble starting. i replaced the 2 push buttons on the control panel and problem as instantly corrected. i thought it was the stater as it clicked as yours did. i bough a replacement starter and solenoid. still in the box
When you do wire work you should use a terminal or dielectric coating to protect the leads like on a battery
Good point, unfortunately I left it at home thinking it was already at the boat.
Your solenoid has a pair of contacts that touch together to complete the circuit when the solenoid is activated.
Over time these contacts get worn down with use and don't connect properly.
In the U.S.A, do you have to register the tender to the boat ?. Because all we do hear in Australia, we just put T T tender to rego number of boat.
There may be an buildup of corosion inside as that happened on the starter saliniod on my motor, the mechanic told me. So that may have happened. I hope you go out for a few days over the holidays.
Merry christmas,
Gerard.
Thanks. Yes, if the boat has a motor it needs to be registered. Yes, hoping for good weather.
Great video. I've tried two times to share a website that describes a problem with the Universal diesel control panel wiring, but neither comment has shown up. Now I'm curious if my previous comments broke a rule. Anyway, if this one gets posted I can share some work that was done to modify the starter circuit on the Universal diesel. It is something that could cause the solenoid to not fully engage or the starter to have reduced turning power due to excessive voltage drop on the starter circuit.
Can you please email me that at adventuresinparadiseFL@gmail.com ? But I already have done all the panel and wiring modifications a I believe I've read those same articles. Either way it's working well with the new solenoid. I got rid of the trailer connector and the mods to the control panel were done by the prev. owner. Thanks for the help!
@@AdventuresInParadise I just sent you an email (although I added an "e" to "...paradis...". I suspect you already know the link I was trying to share. Thanks for your reply!
Looking forward to the Keys. How long do you figure to get down to Marathon?
40-50 hours to key west, no stops.
man rule; less dishes always more gooder
Generuly, when we sell an boat, we have to transfer the rego over to the new oweners and as the dinghy is part of the boat, it gose with the boat. So nothing to worry about only if you think you are going beyond the 1nm limet then you will have to have seprate regostration. Ligts, ect ect,
With motors up to 4 hp, no reg and lic, six hp the dinghy needs rego, over six, rego and lic is required even if you have rego you wil need an lic even for an sailboat. I have an compente crew certificate and recreational marine drivers lic
Gerard.
Here in Florida, these are the rules: All vessels, with the exception of non-motor-powered vessels less than 16 feet in length, non-motor-powered canoes, kayaks, racing shells or rowing sculls, regardless of length, must be registered through your local Tax Collector's Office. So basically, if it's got a motor, you have to register it as a separate boat. On the other side, no license or training is required to operate a boat here.
we have the same boat and engine situation. what is the part number you used for the solenoid?
it's on amazon, search for: For 1983-2005 Kubota Tractor 15852-63010, 15852-63011, 15852-63012, 15852-63013, 16225-63010
If you take off a old hose old fan belt bolt washer nut screw it is safer to use new your fan belt that holds it's shape hard and brittle keep all spair parts in zip lock bags moisture will get in everything rotate all spair parts keep old for emergency
Hear in Australia, if you are with in 1 nm, of the mother ship, you only need is tender to and the rego number of the mother ship as long as the motor on the tender is no more than 4 hp. You do not have that as law in the U.S.A. ?.
Gerard.
I like that it seems a better rule, but I guess the #'s can help prevent theft also.. since not only would your numbers be on the boat, but the new owner would not be able to register it or have a current non-expired tag.
people do replace starters and use the old solenoid and it could had been the solenoid was just bad