How To: Kawasaki Versys 650 Oil and Filter Change
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- YOU can do your own oil change in minutes at a fraction of what a dealership will charge.
We walk you through the tools needed, the steps to take, and some tips along the way when changing the oil and filter on a 2015 Kawasaki Versys 650.
Important info:
- Drain bolt torque spec is 22ft/lbs
- 2015 Versys 650 needs 1.9L of oil with filter change (Use the sight glass to double check WHEN HELD VERTICALLY)
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Skip to:
Intro- 0:00
Tools Needed- 00:30
What to Remove- 00:50
Tip for Keeping Clean- 01:20
Removing Lower Panel- 01:42
Removing Oil Drain Plug- 01:50
Tip for Draining Oil- 02:08
Filter Removal- 02:17
Filter Install- 03:26
Oil Refill- 04:38
"Burping" the System- 07:48
Top Off and Outro- 08:10 
Хобби
Such a smart yet simple idea with the foil over the exhaust!
The simple solutions are my favorite ones. Hope it helps!
Thank you for this. Bought my bike last year and it was definitely time to get this done before the weather gets nice. Perfect guide.
Glad you found it useful! Enjoy the bike once your season starts again!
I like the idea of using a piece of plastic to keep oil off the header; don't know why I never thought of that before!
Aluminum foil works well, too 👍
I just performed my first oil and filter change with ease on my newly purchased Versys 650. Completed without any problem in about 15 minutes. Thanks for your clear and simple instructions.
Congrats on the new bike! I'm glad this helped. I swear it takes so much longer when explaining it 😂
Thnx for this video! Wanted to change my oil this week but would hav been searching on the bottom for the drain plug
Glad you found this helpful!
Thanks for the tutorial brother!
Hope it helps!
Solid details and tips!
Thanks! Hopefully it's useful to those wanting to do their own maintenance.
Thanks Alex, that was very useful!
I did find that the extra minute spent removing the second side panel was well worth it. My filter was very tight (or my hands are weak!) and removing the panel allowed me to use a chain wrench.
Sometimes it is easier to spend a minute to save the hassle for sure! Glad it worked out for you and that you found the video useful ;)
Thx, just bought this motorbike and this is really helpful.
I'm glad it was helpful! Enjoy the new bike and ride safe 👍
Good thorough video. However, it starts with a false premise. The manufacturer doesn't recommend changing the oil every 3,000 miles. After break-in, the Kawasaki Owner’s Manual recommends every 7,600 miles (12,000 kilometers) for the Versys 650 Gen 3. That said, I generally aim for every 5K and if one is going to store the bike for a winter and has driven > 3 or 4K, it’s a good idea to change it before storage so no sediment settles and forms a sludge in the bottom of the pan.
It’s also VERY IMPORTANT to use motorcycle-specific oil and not regular car oil. The Versys 650 has a wet clutch that shares the crankcase oil. Car oil has detergents that will damage the clutch. Kawasaki’s spec is “SAE 10W-40 Kawasaki Performance 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil or other 4-stroke oils with API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rating.” The oil, filter, and drain plug crush washer are sold together as a kit by dealers and on Amazon, though one can save a few bucks by buying name-brand non Kawasaki motorcycle oil if one wants.
@mbj1163 All great info, thank you for sharing. You are right that I should have said that my recommendation was more frequent than the manufacturer instead of "similar to that of the manufacturer"
Are you suggesting the oil used in the video is not motorcycle specific?
Great video. Quick question: What happens if the oil gets slightly higher than the "max line" after running the engine. Is it something to be worried about? Thank you
Thanks! I would ere on the safe side and try to remove the excess. The best way I've found to do that without doing a full change is to use a spray bottle. Take the sprayer and hose out of the bottle, put the hose down the filler cap and then pump the sprayer a few times to suck up the oil. Obviously, be careful of where you are spraying it.
Thanks for posting. Great video. Two questions: I thought you were supposed to empty the oil with the bike still hot/warm. If so, plastic might not be a good idea. Does it matter if the engine is hot? Secondly, I was at a Kawasaki dealer today who said I’m supposed to fill the oil filter with oil, but you mentioned not to what would be the reason to do so or not?
It's a good idea to warm the bike a little before draining the oil so it flows out better, but it also then means the furthest points of the engine will have oil in it rather than being in the pan. So it's one of those things that it's a catch 22. I tend to not run the bike before changing oil. As for prefilling; on these bikes the filters are small enough that it's really not necessary to prefill it. There's no harm in doing it as long as you are checking oil levels when filling the case and then after running and letting settle.
Did you add 2 quarts plus some to top it off? My versys says 2 quarts but after filling and letting it run a few minutes. I let it sit about 30mins and checked level is slightly above bottom fill mark
I believe so. I buy it in gallon jugs, but the spec is 2.3 quarts when filling from dry so 2 qts and top it off sounds about right.
Your method is spot on, though. Run it for a short bit, let it settle and then top off.
So is the motor oil also lubricating the transmission? Just bought mine yesterday. Or is there a separate fluid for transmission?
Congrats on the new bike :)
There is only one source of oil/lubrication on this bike. It covers the clutch, transmission, and lower end of the motor.
Well do add oil to new filter with enough oil so not a dry start also plastic on hot muffler won't work and oil change should be done while hot . But the aluminum foil will work . Keep it up
Thanks for the tips.
Oil change is best on a warm engine- true. So it is fair to point out that plastic could melt if the exhaust is still hot.
The Kawasaki service manual does not specify to add oil to the filter on install- but I did just learn that it explicitly states "Hand tightening of the oil filter can not be allowed since
it does not reach to this tightening torque." So now I'll have to check my hand tight torque numbers :)
Did you not replace the drain plug ? Basic omission !
If by replace you mean reinstall, yes- otherwise the oil would pour right out :)
If you mean replace with a new one- no I don't replace the plug. It is recommended that the aluminum washer be replaced.
You also forgot tpo mention a new copper ring on the drain plug (and putting that plug back in the video)
That's a good call out, thanks. I use aluminum crush washers usually.