I dont know what it is, but something about your closing credit scene speaks to my soul. A shirtless well-beveraged wheelie on a powered trike just just seems like the correct thing to do... may have to try it myself one day.
Gonna build me a bandit. Raced a trx1 and the 3 in the day. I’ve had the latest mid cars and I just don’t like the feel. I just run for fun and this series was an eye opener and made Mede smile.
I love this series, I bought my 10 year old son a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 vxl. For last couple of Sundays we went to our local indoor clay track for Sunday Fun Day practice day. For the most part racing at the track the buggy classes are the most popular. He's interested in racing so I think a non VXL Bandit would be a great start and we're in the Traxxas Battery Ecosystem. Your videos are great for making my decision. I use to race back in the mid 1990s thru the early 2000s. Still have my 2 RC10L3Os, and my RC10T based oval truck with a Composite Craft Oval chassis, and RPM 1.96 transmission.
it looks like the Pro line shocks are giving you more droop (they have more travel). This is likely helping deal with landing the jumps. One of the drawbacks of the Traxxas platforms is they don't provide options for changing the top shock mounting locations which would give you some ability to adjust this easily with the stock parts. Piston hole count and size changes are a huge change in the performance of the damper. It is a much larger effect than just changing weight. The track you are on is bumpy enough that the dual stage springs may be giving some benefit. It is probably pretty minimal though. Eliminating the upper stiffer spring may reduce the complexity of dialing in the setup (fewer knobs to turn). You still need to put on anti-roll bars. That will be the single largest impact on performance you will make from your remaining list of options.
if there are inner+outer holes at the A-arms inner ride softer+taller, taller can be dealt with couple O-rings inside shock body as stops. stock springs may be nicer with 1 coil removed and re-flatten their ends to ditch a little pre-load, maybe 1.5 coils and one internal O-ring. I DO like a softer setup, is more reactive, with about 3/16" to 1/4" negative suspension travel.. plop it down that's how far its squatted. early AE RC10 did have a nice little front torsion bar, with front springs set a little softer it'd still keep the rear more level cornering, definitely worth experimenting with.. wire size, lever length etc, or if already produced grab a couple to play with. friends used to cringe at the pan slap of my soft setup and wondered why they couldn't keep up, I kept quiet about it because it was funny! old soft groomed dirt I did run barely more camber than manual specs, tires would still tip to their outside corners enough to bite. soft groomed oval was fun too (near end of a day when its all ruts and pebbles) is a completely different car setup.
exotek got a kit with carbon damper tower that woult look sweet on a bandit. its amazing how well ot worked on this track and it make me change from thinking bandit is a cheep basher and beguinner car to think it actually is a good racer with miner preparations depending on track layout. thinking i might get a bandit chassie for my slash and turn it in to a buggy.
These videos are amazing. Would you recommend this route to a newbie to indoor tracks? I’ve had bashers in the pasty but would like to try my local track. And proper race vehicle prices are a bit daunting.
Ha ha once again, enjoying this series a lot. Speaking shocks and Traxxas, had it for a long time. It's been great, but when it popped a shock top off a while back I bought some after market no brand chinese ally shocks for it. I filled them up with Tamiya soft shock oil, all the while thinking this will be too soft and no good. Anyhoo, put them on and now my Slash handles really well. Problem is, I'm not sure I want/like that from my Slash. I may well put the stockies back on it cause I like how it leaned and wallowed. Maybe Traxxas hop up shocks, I dunno. Also, I think that spring set up on your aftermarket shocks is a progressive spring thingy. Traxxas did that on the Slash but all in one spring.
As far as the rear diff goes, I upgraded mine with the hot racing one and use the Pro Tek Premier Blue. It helped when I went brushless and was spinning one wheel. I like the grease because it allows it to slip when turning and function more like and LSD, some of the oils I've tried made it hop around corners like a welded diff plus they ALL eventually leak vs grease usually doesn't leak out and is much easier to add/remove.
22.9 is a great time. Love what you’ve done with those shocks/springs for the best of both worlds. Going to be hard to keep getting faster from here but tinkering is fun!
@@mxacres Xtreme RC Racing makes a carbon one for the Rustler/Slash, I don't think it would have any fitment issues other than maybe the body. The other ones I see listed for the Bandit all seem to be for drag conversions.
@@mxacresI don't know if a nitro rustler front shock tower would fit a bandit but I imagine they are similar. They sold fiberglass and carbon fiber versions back in the day for nitro rustlers.
Thanks for the summary of changes! Maybe it was my imagination, but I thought the video seemed smoother, less jerky with the Proline shocks. Would indicate a more stable car. Looking forward to following the rest of this series.
it was definitely smoother and planted better, I think the stock coils are a little too stiff on the stock shocks for too much pre-load. often 1 or 1.5 or 2 coils cut off and re-flatten the ends (check length etc) does small wonders for handling. stock shocks were bouncing pretty hard and they're not bad shocks really, a little "adjusting" but still looking bone stock? if it works, surprise "why doesn't mine run like that?". back when we were always so sneaky secretive lol.
Really love the Bandit content. The infamous algorithm..😂😳… of YT put your channel on my recommended view and I gotta say your videos are fun to watch. Very different from a lot of rc videos. I don’t rc very much, but I gotta say you’re vids are entertaining. Not the typical review, building and shelf queen poser videos.🤣. I do like your diet bike and your outro trike vid. Like you, I like to bike also, used to freestyle, well try to freestyle back in the 80’s, skateboarding, dirt biking and now into cars, thanks to building RC’s That got me into full scale car builds. As much RC’s are cool, I try to tell my rc friends to try actual off roading in a real bike, quad and also truck to show them the real experience behind the wheel instead of just controlling a small toy!🤣. They seem to love, just hurts your wallet after the the fact.🤣. Anyway, keep what your doing and hope to see more off roading vids with your bike, quads, trucks and so forth! Keep up the great work!🤙🏻
If I remember right, the ball diff that fits the modern 2wd Traxxas stuff, is an old TRX Sport part number, so it may be harder to find. As far as drop in 'sealed' diffs, I think the FLM diff is the only one that actually seals and holds fluid. The Hot Racing diff claims it seals, but leaks fluid like crazy. I went with the HR diff and Lucas Red n Tacky on my Slash, and it worked fine, but does need occasional service as the grease breaks down. Otherwise, swapping for the ProLine 32p gearbox, or the Traxxas 272r that has a updated sealed helical gear diff are probly the simplest upgrade paths, though not super budget.
Bandit uses different caster blocks and front a-arms than the Rustler/Stampede/Slash that's why nothing fits. Its the same arm and same style caster block as the Nitro Sport/Nitro Rustler uses but a different angle on the caster block (one's 30deg and the other is 25 forget which is which). It was a long time ago but I converted my old Rustler to Nitro Rustler front parts because they were a little more durable. I'm loving this series because it really shows that just because something is aftermarket and more expensive doesn't mean it's better or quicker
@@mxacres its amazing that a car that me and alot other see as a basher got som much potential in racing i have to change my mind that a bandit is a racecar.
dude, I loved watching that, it looks like the prolines slighter kept the tires on the ground a little more...atleast to my old eyes lol, that looks like a fun class, do they do a stock class?.....awesome video sir! sláinte!
How are you securing the shory lipo in there? Thinking of designing up a simple 3d print screw in bracket for the rustler/bandit, but curious how you did it
I didn’t get RPM caster blocks because I was afraid they weren’t going to fit. I got another set of castor blocks idk what company. I had to also drill a bigger hole. Unfortunately I feel they don’t make to many upgrades for bandit. I would like RPM castor blocks… what part number did you order?
My friend is doing the exact same thing to a bandit. He went to get different tires for it and the guy working at the hobby store told him to do himself a favor and get a better car. Now feeling he has something to prove and be competitive with a bandit. I see your racing at big dogs have been there several times. Maybe we will come up there and race against you.
As for the transmission I am running a drag slash transmission and input shaft Robison racing middle gear and a old style traxxas ball diff with bearing adapters I made.
You need to do build price on what it would cost to get this where you end up. I want to see how much it would cost to build this to race compared to just buying a race kit
Man, that car is so kickass. What's the point of diminishing returns for a bandito build? What I mean is, if I wanted to build a parts-bin kit, should I just throw the entire RPM catalog and proline shocks at a bare Bandit chassis then pick my electronics and call it a day? Or is there a slightly more cost-optimized way to do it?
How is the handicapped accessibility and drivers area for wheelchair there I’m about a hour away from there and there’s nothing my way (butler) track wise??
I like what your doing. Always wanted to know how close can you get with a not pro car. Looks like your doing it right. I do wonder if the return rate on front shocks might stillbe a little slow.
The caster block issue is because the Bandit uses the same front arms as a the Nitro Rustler, Nitro Sport, and Nitro Stampede, which use bigger 3mm hinge pins than the rest of the 2wd electrics, which are 2mm.
Ok, lets see if I can remember a damn thing of value by hanging around with racers, at my time with the hobby shop. Playing around with the number of holes on the piston can help with tuning. Kyosho even included a different set of pistons with the Ultima with the re release. Those Pro-line shocks come in two flavours. One set are Powerstroke which I believe is for short course, and other are Big Bores. Big Bores are for bashing, or the popular opinion is that they are for bashing. So you might have Slash dampeners on a Bandit. But hey, if it works, it works! The tiny springs at the top of the dampeners are pre load shocks. And allows for finer tuning of the spring rates. Unlike stock Traxxas dual rate shocks that are, ridiculously soft at the pre load end, and then the rest of the spring is over the top too hard. So mess around with the pre load springs and see what you yield. The fluid in the shocks, Ive been told shouldn't vary too wildly,, especially on a rear engine buggy. So going to a 30 weight oil like your wanting is a right step. You might find bringing the front up to 25 or similar, might be valuable, but it depends on your track like you mentioned. The shock towers are also flexing. I don't know if RPM make a hard plastic tower for the Bandito. Or anyone else makes a stiffer plastic/fiberglass option for it. If my brain isn't completely jelly, I think the RPM towers are for the Slash/Stampede/Bandit, and they might suit the Pro-line Powerstrokes better. I was going to suggest dialing in more camber, in the video, the back tyres looked like they were rolling over in corners, I cant tell from the video how much you already have in it. And finally the diff, look into a sealed unit as you mentioned. Tuning with different weights of oils can generate gains in traction, but you will need to see what works for the track you are at. I love this series. Best value and the most entertaining Ive seen for a while, because no one on RUclips wants to do it. RUclips RCers seem only to be out for viewers and subs. Thank you for putting all this together, and hyped for more episodes.
@@mxacres You might look at the Nitro Rustler front tower, it has a cross bar on the top going from shock screw hole to shock screw hole. I’ve got the RPM version on my Long Armed Bandit. Almost forgot, I did need to trim the JConcepts body it’s got near the nose to fit that between the top of the tower and the chassis, though it you’re Velcroing the body on, I’d look at removing the front mount from the top plate.
Biggest problem, dude, is, everything i lying around in online shops..... would make it so much easy having all available stationary. Like your music, dude. Working on a silly Absima AB3.4 Buggy... :D
Well if you're getting faster lap times with the proline shocks over the stock Traxxas then run with those. One thing I did notice is that the 2 stage springs on the proline the smaller upper spring was handling the small bumps in the track surface and the larger springs are handling the jumps. So far it's looking good. Did you pull all the bearings and clean them out and oil them? If not you should, it makes a difference. I'd love to come down to Big Dog to race my bandit with you guys, but you're a 4-1/2 hour ride from my place in Michigan. I'll be at my LHS track tomorrow to try my bandit on the Astro turf. Car is looking good tho!👍. Keep them coming! I'm looking forward to the next video! 👍👍
Awesome video......wondered what was in it...still running all stock on my Bandit.....thanks for the break down....was wondering what hexs you ran.....can't wait for more......have fun and be safe 👍
I'd also like to add that a ball diff will also add to maintenance costs....(diff balls and rings), not to add adjusting it properly. I'd ask the local fastest guys if they run a gear or ball diff. Hot racing makes a sealed gear diff $30 for the bandit/rusty/slash so you can tune with diff oils. Avoid fastlane machine. Their parts are nice but sometimes don't fit. I've had a so so experience with them.
Definitely you can put in a ball diff. Hard one to find is TRA2520 they are few and far between, but TRA4420 is fairly easy to find and is out there. You will want a Delron Top and aluminum idler "TRA3195x, TRA1996x. Ran my Bandit for years oval racing with that setup, if not get the delron diff and black grease it lightly.
Need to take into account afterwards that you will not have a camera onboard. So going to stiffer rear oil in the aftermarket might or might not change. They were bottoming out in a few turns with your 27 weight though.
If you want to stiffen the front tower, look for Traxxas 2518/2518x. These are fiberglass front shock tower and X is carbon fiber. Also the Traxxas ball diff kinda sucks and is discontinued. You’re better off with the FLM seal gear diff.
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
I dont know what it is, but something about your closing credit scene speaks to my soul. A shirtless well-beveraged wheelie on a powered trike just just seems like the correct thing to do... may have to try it myself one day.
It pretty much describes my life in one frame.😂 i am a responsible husband and father though when nobody’s looking 👍🏻
Gonna build me a bandit. Raced a trx1 and the 3 in the day. I’ve had the latest mid cars and I just don’t like the feel. I just run for fun and this series was an eye opener and made Mede smile.
I never thought it would be one of my favorite buggies, but it is!
You single handedly reviving the old 1997 tech Bandit back to life.. I like your content bro!
Thank you!
I’m glad someone is doing real data collection and figuring out how to make the car faster love the bandit gotta get it
Love your videos of this old chassis . Thanks for taking time to post great content
Thanks for watching!!
I love this series, I bought my 10 year old son a Traxxas Rustler 4x4 vxl. For last couple of Sundays we went to our local indoor clay track for Sunday Fun Day practice day. For the most part racing at the track the buggy classes are the most popular. He's interested in racing so I think a non VXL Bandit would be a great start and we're in the Traxxas Battery Ecosystem. Your videos are great for making my decision. I use to race back in the mid 1990s thru the early 2000s. Still have my 2 RC10L3Os, and my RC10T based oval truck with a Composite Craft Oval chassis, and RPM 1.96 transmission.
Really enjoyed this series. It’s what brought me to your channel. Glad I found it. New sub!
Thank you
Thank you
it looks like the Pro line shocks are giving you more droop (they have more travel). This is likely helping deal with landing the jumps. One of the drawbacks of the Traxxas platforms is they don't provide options for changing the top shock mounting locations which would give you some ability to adjust this easily with the stock parts.
Piston hole count and size changes are a huge change in the performance of the damper. It is a much larger effect than just changing weight.
The track you are on is bumpy enough that the dual stage springs may be giving some benefit. It is probably pretty minimal though. Eliminating the upper stiffer spring may reduce the complexity of dialing in the setup (fewer knobs to turn).
You still need to put on anti-roll bars. That will be the single largest impact on performance you will make from your remaining list of options.
if there are inner+outer holes at the A-arms inner ride softer+taller, taller can be dealt with couple O-rings inside shock body as stops. stock springs may be nicer with 1 coil removed and re-flatten their ends to ditch a little pre-load, maybe 1.5 coils and one internal O-ring. I DO like a softer setup, is more reactive, with about 3/16" to 1/4" negative suspension travel.. plop it down that's how far its squatted.
early AE RC10 did have a nice little front torsion bar, with front springs set a little softer it'd still keep the rear more level cornering, definitely worth experimenting with.. wire size, lever length etc, or if already produced grab a couple to play with.
friends used to cringe at the pan slap of my soft setup and wondered why they couldn't keep up, I kept quiet about it because it was funny! old soft groomed dirt I did run barely more camber than manual specs, tires would still tip to their outside corners enough to bite. soft groomed oval was fun too (near end of a day when its all ruts and pebbles) is a completely different car setup.
exotek got a kit with carbon damper tower that woult look sweet on a bandit.
its amazing how well ot worked on this track and it make me change from thinking bandit is a cheep basher and beguinner car to think it actually is a good racer with miner preparations depending on track layout.
thinking i might get a bandit chassie for my slash and turn it in to a buggy.
Great project....my RC posse in Germany loves it
Awesome! Thank you.
These videos are amazing. Would you recommend this route to a newbie to indoor tracks? I’ve had bashers in the pasty but would like to try my local track. And proper race vehicle prices are a bit daunting.
Definitely. Just get the proper tires for your track and a better steering servo and go!
I’ll be up Thursday to give it a shot at practice, if u want to see a beginner bust stuff up come over lol
Ha ha once again, enjoying this series a lot. Speaking shocks and Traxxas, had it for a long time. It's been great, but when it popped a shock top off a while back I bought some after market no brand chinese ally shocks for it. I filled them up with Tamiya soft shock oil, all the while thinking this will be too soft and no good. Anyhoo, put them on and now my Slash handles really well.
Problem is, I'm not sure I want/like that from my Slash. I may well put the stockies back on it cause I like how it leaned and wallowed. Maybe Traxxas hop up shocks, I dunno.
Also, I think that spring set up on your aftermarket shocks is a progressive spring thingy. Traxxas did that on the Slash but all in one spring.
I've always liked a little softer setup on about everything
As far as the rear diff goes, I upgraded mine with the hot racing one and use the Pro Tek Premier Blue. It helped when I went brushless and was spinning one wheel. I like the grease because it allows it to slip when turning and function more like and LSD, some of the oils I've tried made it hop around corners like a welded diff plus they ALL eventually leak vs grease usually doesn't leak out and is much easier to add/remove.
22.9 is a great time. Love what you’ve done with those shocks/springs for the best of both worlds. Going to be hard to keep getting faster from here but tinkering is fun!
Yes. I think my lap times are about maxed out. Looking to make it consistent now. As well as my driving. And still looking for that win!!
@@mxacres what is the fast time for 17.5 buggy at your track? How far off the pace are you?
Definitely loving this series! Gotta upgrade the shock towers! Super stiff and with mounting options, game changer!
What companies do you know of that have them for the bandit? I see rpm, but do you know of any carbon fiber? Thanks.
@@mxacres Xtreme RC Racing makes a carbon one for the Rustler/Slash, I don't think it would have any fitment issues other than maybe the body. The other ones I see listed for the Bandit all seem to be for drag conversions.
@@mxacresI don't know if a nitro rustler front shock tower would fit a bandit but I imagine they are similar. They sold fiberglass and carbon fiber versions back in the day for nitro rustlers.
I really want to buy a Bandito now!!! You make it do fun. Lol
Thanks for the summary of changes! Maybe it was my imagination, but I thought the video seemed smoother, less jerky with the Proline shocks. Would indicate a more stable car.
Looking forward to following the rest of this series.
it was definitely smoother and planted better, I think the stock coils are a little too stiff on the stock shocks for too much pre-load. often 1 or 1.5 or 2 coils cut off and re-flatten the ends (check length etc) does small wonders for handling. stock shocks were bouncing pretty hard and they're not bad shocks really, a little "adjusting" but still looking bone stock? if it works, surprise "why doesn't mine run like that?". back when we were always so sneaky secretive lol.
Really love the Bandit content. The infamous algorithm..😂😳… of YT put your channel on my recommended view and I gotta say your videos are fun to watch. Very different from a lot of rc videos. I don’t rc very much, but I gotta say you’re vids are entertaining. Not the typical review, building and shelf queen poser videos.🤣. I do like your diet bike and your outro trike vid. Like you, I like to bike also, used to freestyle, well try to freestyle back in the 80’s, skateboarding, dirt biking and now into cars, thanks to building RC’s That got me into full scale car builds. As much RC’s are cool, I try to tell my rc friends to try actual off roading in a real bike, quad and also truck to show them the real experience behind the wheel instead of just controlling a small toy!🤣. They seem to love, just hurts your wallet after the the fact.🤣. Anyway, keep what your doing and hope to see more off roading vids with your bike, quads, trucks and so forth! Keep up the great work!🤙🏻
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it.
If I remember right, the ball diff that fits the modern 2wd Traxxas stuff, is an old TRX Sport part number, so it may be harder to find. As far as drop in 'sealed' diffs, I think the FLM diff is the only one that actually seals and holds fluid. The Hot Racing diff claims it seals, but leaks fluid like crazy. I went with the HR diff and Lucas Red n Tacky on my Slash, and it worked fine, but does need occasional service as the grease breaks down. Otherwise, swapping for the ProLine 32p gearbox, or the Traxxas 272r that has a updated sealed helical gear diff are probly the simplest upgrade paths, though not super budget.
hot racing makes some pretty good sealed diffs. i just got one for my bandit and it works great.
There's a lot of good information in this video.
Bandit uses different caster blocks and front a-arms than the Rustler/Stampede/Slash that's why nothing fits. Its the same arm and same style caster block as the Nitro Sport/Nitro Rustler uses but a different angle on the caster block (one's 30deg and the other is 25 forget which is which). It was a long time ago but I converted my old Rustler to Nitro Rustler front parts because they were a little more durable. I'm loving this series because it really shows that just because something is aftermarket and more expensive doesn't mean it's better or quicker
More great info.
Thanks for doing these videos about the bandit
You are most welcome. I’m having fun and thank YOU for watching!
I bought some PowerHobby aluminum caster blocks and they needed to be drilled out as well. Not sure what the deal is with the caster blocks.
I have binge watched this series today.
The car looks to have loads of untapped potential.
This thing is an animal
@@mxacres its amazing that a car that me and alot other see as a basher got som much potential in racing i have to change my mind that a bandit is a racecar.
dude, I loved watching that, it looks like the prolines slighter kept the tires on the ground a little more...atleast to my old eyes lol, that looks like a fun class, do they do a stock class?.....awesome video sir! sláinte!
Stock bandit class is definitely growing here
Great series mate, good work.
Thanks
The sealed diff is the way to go. I’m liking the that your sticking with the bandit making it faster and focusing on driving! Need a rustler video
I just picked up a Tamiya Astute 2022 TD2, a build up race series on that would be great too. Asking for a friend😉
How are you securing the shory lipo in there? Thinking of designing up a simple 3d print screw in bracket for the rustler/bandit, but curious how you did it
He put some foam behind it to secure it
Double sided tape under battery and under the strap.
Where can i get a camera like this?
I didn’t get RPM caster blocks because I was afraid they weren’t going to fit. I got another set of castor blocks idk what company. I had to also drill a bigger hole. Unfortunately I feel they don’t make to many upgrades for bandit. I would like RPM castor blocks… what part number did you order?
Great series, having a lot of fun watching it. Once this one is finished do it again with the Tamiya Frog, or Hornet.
🤔
Hornet stock class on a soft small groomed dirt course was FUN in the mid 80's.
there's good reason I ran a VW Baja bug body on mine type fun.
I love watching underdog RC cars hit the track and be monsters. What camera do you use to record video on the car itself?
Phone and GoPro
Why the ESC all the way in the back? Wouldn´t it be better more weight to the front or middle? (i am beginner, so i am just asking, thanks)
I choose to slide the battery forward
My friend is doing the exact same thing to a bandit. He went to get different tires for it and the guy working at the hobby store told him to do himself a favor and get a better car. Now feeling he has something to prove and be competitive with a bandit. I see your racing at big dogs have been there several times. Maybe we will come up there and race against you.
As for the transmission I am running a drag slash transmission and input shaft Robison racing middle gear and a old style traxxas ball diff with bearing adapters I made.
Make your way up here when you can! We had a full bandit class last Saturday!
You need to do build price on what it would cost to get this where you end up. I want to see how much it would cost to build this to race compared to just buying a race kit
Man, that car is so kickass. What's the point of diminishing returns for a bandito build? What I mean is, if I wanted to build a parts-bin kit, should I just throw the entire RPM catalog and proline shocks at a bare Bandit chassis then pick my electronics and call it a day? Or is there a slightly more cost-optimized way to do it?
Really all it needs is tires, gearing, and fluid change
How is the handicapped accessibility and drivers area for wheelchair there I’m about a hour away from there and there’s nothing my way (butler) track wise??
I like what your doing. Always wanted to know how close can you get with a not pro car. Looks like your doing it right. I do wonder if the return rate on front shocks might stillbe a little slow.
Original front arms are stiffer then the rpm one's.
The pin of the castor block will bend
The caster block issue is because the Bandit uses the same front arms as a the Nitro Rustler, Nitro Sport, and Nitro Stampede, which use bigger 3mm hinge pins than the rest of the 2wd electrics, which are 2mm.
Ok, lets see if I can remember a damn thing of value by hanging around with racers, at my time with the hobby shop. Playing around with the number of holes on the piston can help with tuning. Kyosho even included a different set of pistons with the Ultima with the re release. Those Pro-line shocks come in two flavours. One set are Powerstroke which I believe is for short course, and other are Big Bores. Big Bores are for bashing, or the popular opinion is that they are for bashing. So you might have Slash dampeners on a Bandit. But hey, if it works, it works!
The tiny springs at the top of the dampeners are pre load shocks. And allows for finer tuning of the spring rates. Unlike stock Traxxas dual rate shocks that are, ridiculously soft at the pre load end, and then the rest of the spring is over the top too hard. So mess around with the pre load springs and see what you yield. The fluid in the shocks, Ive been told shouldn't vary too wildly,, especially on a rear engine buggy. So going to a 30 weight oil like your wanting is a right step. You might find bringing the front up to 25 or similar, might be valuable, but it depends on your track like you mentioned.
The shock towers are also flexing. I don't know if RPM make a hard plastic tower for the Bandito. Or anyone else makes a stiffer plastic/fiberglass option for it. If my brain isn't completely jelly, I think the RPM towers are for the Slash/Stampede/Bandit, and they might suit the Pro-line Powerstrokes better.
I was going to suggest dialing in more camber, in the video, the back tyres looked like they were rolling over in corners, I cant tell from the video how much you already have in it.
And finally the diff, look into a sealed unit as you mentioned. Tuning with different weights of oils can generate gains in traction, but you will need to see what works for the track you are at.
I love this series. Best value and the most entertaining Ive seen for a while, because no one on RUclips wants to do it. RUclips RCers seem only to be out for viewers and subs. Thank you for putting all this together, and hyped for more episodes.
Thanks man! I’m glad you’re watching and I’m definitely having fun learning with this buggy.
@@mxacres You might look at the Nitro Rustler front tower, it has a cross bar on the top going from shock screw hole to shock screw hole. I’ve got the RPM version on my Long Armed Bandit.
Almost forgot, I did need to trim the JConcepts body it’s got near the nose to fit that between the top of the tower and the chassis, though it you’re Velcroing the body on, I’d look at removing the front mount from the top plate.
Seems like the front prolines are soaking up bumps better, kinda looks like the stock fronts are skipping more often.
Yes. Prolines definitely feel more planted.
The Bandit needs a shock tower with adjustable shock position
Check around for shock towers that have optional mounting points. They tend to work better when you can adjust the upper position.
Biggest problem, dude, is, everything i lying around in online shops..... would make it so much easy having all available stationary. Like your music, dude. Working on a silly Absima AB3.4 Buggy... :D
Well if you're getting faster lap times with the proline shocks over the stock Traxxas then run with those. One thing I did notice is that the 2 stage springs on the proline the smaller upper spring was handling the small bumps in the track surface and the larger springs are handling the jumps. So far it's looking good. Did you pull all the bearings and clean them out and oil them? If not you should, it makes a difference. I'd love to come down to Big Dog to race my bandit with you guys, but you're a 4-1/2 hour ride from my place in Michigan. I'll be at my LHS track tomorrow to try my bandit on the Astro turf. Car is looking good tho!👍. Keep them coming! I'm looking forward to the next video! 👍👍
Yes! Forgot to mention I have bearings now. I did not clean them though.
Mentally taking note of what you do so I can copy you; thanks!
Damn, these videos were shot back in February 2017?
The Bandito is actually a time machine - it shot forward to 2023 during this test session multiple times too!
The stock shocks are not making as much surface contact. They seems more stiff.
Definitely
Strc makes the caster blocks for the bandit so you won't have to drill the holes out
Awesome video......wondered what was in it...still running all stock on my Bandit.....thanks for the break down....was wondering what hexs you ran.....can't wait for more......have fun and be safe 👍
You too! Thanks
The onboard is cool to watch, however it's so,,,,, blurry you can't really make out what your watching.
That’s because there’s hella vibration lol. maybe foam padding can reduce the vibration 🤷🏽♂️
I hate stainless screws, the heads strip out super easy. I wanna see if someone makes a titanium set
I'd also like to add that a ball diff will also add to maintenance costs....(diff balls and rings), not to add adjusting it properly. I'd ask the local fastest guys if they run a gear or ball diff. Hot racing makes a sealed gear diff $30 for the bandit/rusty/slash so you can tune with diff oils. Avoid fastlane machine. Their parts are nice but sometimes don't fit. I've had a so so experience with them.
Definitely you can put in a ball diff. Hard one to find is TRA2520 they are few and far between, but TRA4420 is fairly easy to find and is out there. You will want a Delron Top and aluminum idler "TRA3195x, TRA1996x. Ran my Bandit for years oval racing with that setup, if not get the delron diff and black grease it lightly.
BANDITO 4 THE WIN !!
Why not get the new magnum transmission from Traxxas
Vxl got the right screws
Btw I can use these same proline shocks on the arrma senton fits allot of 1/10 cars
I'm sure it's been said but shouldn't you sand down and burn in some bandito c3 tires on that bad boy. It's only right.
Proline makes a very nice transmission for it.
Your Vids are great, I want to buy you a proper Mic though haha
😂 I’m trying
How are you holding the shorty pack in there?
He's either using Velcro or 2 sided servo tape to hold it in
Double sided tape under the battery and under the battery strap.
What kind of tire's are you running.
Aka ultra soft slicks.
Do a RUSTLER next
🤷♂️
Need to take into account afterwards that you will not have a camera onboard. So going to stiffer rear oil in the aftermarket might or might not change. They were bottoming out in a few turns with your 27 weight though.
If you want to stiffen the front tower, look for Traxxas 2518/2518x. These are fiberglass front shock tower and X is carbon fiber. Also the Traxxas ball diff kinda sucks and is discontinued. You’re better off with the FLM seal gear diff.
Don't bother with the Traxxas ball diff. I use the FastLane sealed diff. It uses the stock gears and gives you the ability to tune with diff oils.
Sure see more vibration with the stocks
Theses things definitely take a beating.
The waffle house has found it’s new host