Used the teaching from this video to win a Tulip photo contest and now my picture is on the cover of a visitor guide in Holland, Michigan. Thanks Charlie@
I saw a video a couple years ago that used flash, but didn't provide clear explanation. Thank you for answering some important questions for lighting flowers. This video is 3 years old, but the information still stands.
Ive been thinking for a while of using flash but haven't done so and have been using ambient light which is fickle. This video makes the process seem very straight forward and easier to understand. I'm interested in how the background can be lit to provide highlights for a few tasteful bokeh balls. I have so far been able to achieve this by my background being tree branches with tiny patches of bright light shining through which give white bokeh balls but have seen photographs where bokeh balls have been a complementary colour and have thought how this might be achieved in shot if not in post processing. I'd rather do as little as possible in post processing.
Glad you enjoyed this Simon. I admit I have not spent much time creating Bokeh but you raise some interesting ideas and I just might have to try. Charlie
Looks like the Sunriver area. Great video and Thank You. I just purchased two of the Fotodiox diffuser units, they look awesome and quite portable. Another great YT video got me using parchment paper (diffuser) and the roll from Saran wrap as a light funnel for my flash. So much fun.
@@ProNaturePhotographr I received the Fotodiox diffusers and they are AWESOME. Great purchase and thanks for making me aware of them. Spent a few hours on water droplets, on flowers, and they are a challenge. Eastern Or high country soon for a MAYBE a few wildflowers to test out your process.
@@runningwithscissors3280 Hey I am so sorry for the long delayed response. You are correct, that little lightbox works great for so many things, usually small subjects. Cant beat the price!
Howdy, that adjustable mini tripod is a Targus TG-42TT but it does not look like its made anymore. But this Kodak is almost identical: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1749065-REG/kodak_rocpgtr42_42_travel_compact_tripod.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&smpm=ba_f2_lar&lsft=BI%3A514&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzby1BhCQARIsAJ_0t5OLmpekD-euWqqSyYCQbr2MGCTkyy9wFKLOYwwszWIhl_Ak3XBT3AQaAhzbEALw_wcBBI/7592/KBID/8120
Excellent video 😊. Superb lecture with great information. Just bought a Metz flash unit and now I have all the information I need to start taking flash photos of flowers and fungi. Thanks very much.
Professional Nature Photographer Thanks 😊. Moved on a lot since my comment. Now have 3 flash units which operate on my micro 4/3rds system. Metz 64 AF-1 with only cable attachment possible for OFF camera use. A cheap ring LED flash for macro shots - manual mode only but good - and Nissin i60A Flash with wireless Air10s for OFF camera use without the need for cables. If anyone ever needs a wireless flash system for micro 4/3rds then Nissin is one of the few that operates. (Note: The Metz Flash wireless system does not work for micro 4/3rds !!) Just bought extension arm unit to use the Nissin Flash OFF camera but physically attached enabling overhead flash light and extra stability due to solid mounting system. All now ready to go with wildlife shots. Only need some good rain free weather in London ha ha !!
When shooter introduced man made lighting into scene keep it natural matching ambient feeling and mood. Tip flash upward so foreground not too bright. A flash meter will take guess work out of workflow plus ratio control on multiple light source
You are correct 1911geek- That area on the fringes of any light source is like the falloff zone where the light gets weaker and softer in quality. I use that technique all the time in my photography. Charlie
G'day mate, from one white hair'd bloke to another, nice tutorial. A nice relaxed pace, unlike a lot of the young blokes today that look like they've just got off the crack pipe and are bouncing off the walls...[or trees]...and are screaming into their mic's!!! Well done. Al.
I already know my stuff but watched to see if there was any little thing I might not have considered. I found it very, very good and a big help for those new to photography. I use Canon kit and the YN622C system to control/remote adjust flash power level. I was a little shocked to see you do not use a lens hood. I will have a look at some of your other vids. Keep up the good work.
Glad you enjoyed this vid Bill. Yes, you can look at it as the subject is affected when the ambient light changed with the shutter speed. If you go to a faster shutter speed to darken the ambient light, that will darken the subject at the same time. Charlie
The 10-18 is a great lens and I use it on my older 70D. So I can recommend it. My favorite lens is the 16-35mm f/2.8 and I use that on my full-frame sensor camera. It is very high quality but expensive. Good luck!
Two ways to look at this. If the flash is set to TTL (thru the lens) then when the flash-to-subject distance changes, the flash automatically adjusts the flash output level to compensate for the change in distance. So, moving closer to the subject tells the flash to output less light or moving further away, the flash metering knows to output more light for good flash exposure. The other option is setting the flash to manual flash output where you have to manually change the output level on the flash when moving closer or further away. This can be more challenging compared to TTL. So you take a test exposure and evaluate it it. Too bright or too dark? If too dark, then increase the flash output level, such as 1/4 power to 1/2 power. Too bright, then lower output level from 1/4 to 1/8th. Evaluate again and if 1/2 power is perfect then exposure will be good on the subject, but if the subject moves and becomes closer or further away, then retest again. If you are shooting a moving subject, then TTL is easier and a stationary subject, then Manuel may be better. That's it! Cheers.
Obviously, there are many ways to photograph any subject and I choose to add light with flash as demonstrated. Painting with light using a flashlight is a completely different technique and a cool one that works on many subjects.
Hi Jules- You are absolutely correct , and I have a Sekonic, and I know where it is and its really old and its not in my camera bag. LOL I went to Visual Metering and SWAG a long time ago and surviving it so far. Cheers! 😄
Hi Charlie, Rob from Christmas Valley here. I have a Canon 6d ii and want to use two external flashes with one signal on the hot shoe. What do you recommend for such lights, and does the NPT-04 work with them? I have Canon Speedlite 470 and AD200 by Flashpoint. Many thanks!
Sorry for the delay Rob. I swear I answered your question but I guess not. The NPT is not model specific and will work with those two flashes you have. They just are not TTL capable. Charlie
Using a radio controlled Canon 600EXII or Canon 430EXIII would negate the need for a third party radio trigger. Either of these Speedlites may be used on camera instead of the Canon ST-E3_RT to trigger the Speedlite being used to illuminate the flower.
Hey Bruce- Yes, you are absolutely correct. The 600exrt is an awesome system. I had one 600exrt and rented another when i wrote my ebook: Outdoor Flash Photography and included that in the pdf version. I liked it a lot but found it too expensive to expand the system to 3-4 flashes. Since i already have 4 580 series, and then discovered the cheap triggers, i chose that route and it works great. Thanks for leaving a comment. Charlie
After this I straight away ordered a couple of wireless triggers! A question if you don’t mind: does TTL still work with the light box attached? Doesn’t it block the red rangefinder light?
Robert- TTL will work with a light box attached and if you switch from TTL to External Metering Sensor, that should work as well as long as it the sensor is not blocked by the light box. Charlie
Enjoyed your video and I want to try using the larger softbox but it comes with a speedring to attach to the flash. I looked carefully at this video and noticed you had some kind of other mount. My question is how did you attach the 18x18 softbox to your flash with the speedring?
Hi Copykatnj: That bracket you saw actually has a screw knob at the bottom of the bracket which screws in the speed ring and the the light box is attached to that ring. Here it is: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/197439-REG/Photoflex_AC_B222SM_Adjustable_Shoe_Mount_Connector.html/BI/7592/KBID/8120 and the speed ring: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=PHSRBXSLD&N=0&InitialSearch=yes/BI/7592/KBID/8120 Charlie
Great video! The ambient light for the lupine by the river looked pretty even. Why did you choose to light it from the side vs. front? General thoughts on the position of a flash?
Jason- When you move a light to the side of the subject, you are creating highlights and shadows and that creates shape in the subject. Like a portrait of someone. If the flash is on the cameras hot shoe, it is on the same plane as the lens so the light effect is very flat. All highlight and little shadow as far as shaping the subject with light. But move it to the side of the person and one side will be highlight from the flash and one side will be shadow and this shows shape of the subject. Works the same in nature as well. Charlie
@@ProNaturePhotographr Very well explained! I have been researching into how one can use off-camera flash for macro photography and then I stumbled upon your video in the process. Though I don't shoot flowers as much as I do insects, I think your advice really comes in handy when it comes to better illuminating the subject. Thanks for taking the time and making this video for people like us out there. :)
@@viraj.shinde Thanks Viraj, I appreciate the comment. You are correct, these same techniques can definitely be applied to macro photography with some slight modifications to the flash lighting setup. George Lepp was well known for creating a lighting system exclusively for macrop and todday there are some similar products out there. Good luck! Charlie
Hey there. Question. When shooting Red flowers, I notice that the red can look a little pasty and sometimes purple tends to sneak in. So, how to keep reds from looking pasty and why would the purple sneak in? Thanks in advance.
What’s the highest flash power you would use before deciding to increase the ISO and shutter speed? I have read from other photographers articles, using 1/2 or full power is not recommended.
Hi Mike- I use full power on a lot of my subjects without issue, to keep my ISO low. But it depends on the subject and subject-to-flash-distance. I have not heard about avoiding the use of 1/2 or full power so i have no idea why others suggest that. Thanks for the question. Charlie
I'm confused - I've two Canon cameras, one activates a flash when the shutter speed is set to 1/200 of a second, the other at 1/250 of a second, so how does the flash activate when the shutter speed is not either of those?????????????
Wow, sorry, I never got a notification that you posted this question. Different cameras can have different sync speeds in each. You have one at 1/200 and 1/25oth and my Canons are the same. In each case, you cannot use a faster shutter speed than what the camera is capable of syncing with. Like 1/200th on one camera is the limit. In both cameras, you can use a long shutter speed without issue, like 1/100th or 1 second, but nothing faster than those sync speeds. With today's advanced cameras, when you set a sync speed faster than the designated speed if often automatically reverts to the designated sync speed cuz it knows speeds faster wont work. If you want to use a faster speed than sync speed, you would use Slow Sync Mode and that comes with most cameras. But there is a challenge there and it can create major technical challenges because of the rapid decrease in flash output level. There are many videos on that topic here if you are interested. Best wishes, and sorry I missed your message. Charlie
1/60? why such a slow shutter speed? I use iso 400 and increase the speed. But I go handheld so I am fighting wind and my own movements. But taking all that equipment into the field? Nope. You are better off just doing it in a studio
Photographing in the studio is an option and I have done that, but that look would be different and its a completely different approach. You cant easily replicate grass and twigs and that out of focus background in the studio, that you can get in the field. 'Taking all that equipment into the field' is a personal choice. I get asked to do outdoor portraits from time to time and I take all that equipment because adding light to many subjects makes them look better than simply ramping up ISO.
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Ive always loved using multiple flash setups. Especially with a leaf shutter equipt medium format camera
Thanks for commenting and yes, the leaf shutter is the way to go. I once had Hasselblads but used them primarily for commercial work.
Used the teaching from this video to win a Tulip photo contest and now my picture is on the cover of a visitor guide in Holland, Michigan. Thanks Charlie@
Gene-
That is awesome and made my day. Congratulations!
Charlie
Great explanation of the flash and shutter speed influences
Thank you Jim.
Muy buena información, gracias .. pero si además pudieras traducir tus videos con texto en español seria perfecto.
Un saludo
Me alegro que te haya gustado el vídeo y gracias por el tup.
Very detailed, complete and informative video. Thank you. It will certainly make me improve my flower photos.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
Thank you so much for an extremely useful tutorial.
Thank you for watching and commenting! 😁
I like coherent and clear explanations. Keep up the good work and thank you.
So sorry for the delay in replying to you, but thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it.
Great tutorial. Thank you for all your hard work.
Glad it was helpful!
Good ideas and techniques. I've been away from photography for awhile so this refreshed some old memories cells.
Glad it was helpful Paul!
I saw a video a couple years ago that used flash, but didn't provide clear explanation. Thank you for answering some important questions for lighting flowers. This video is 3 years old, but the information still stands.
Thank you for commenting Larry. Glad you enjoyed it.
Really enjoyed your video. Lots of great detail without being overwhelming.
Thanks Clyde. Glad you enjoyed it!
Ive been thinking for a while of using flash but haven't done so and have been using ambient light which is fickle. This video makes the process seem very straight forward and easier to understand. I'm interested in how the background can be lit to provide highlights for a few tasteful bokeh balls. I have so far been able to achieve this by my background being tree branches with tiny patches of bright light shining through which give white bokeh balls but have seen photographs where bokeh balls have been a complementary colour and have thought how this might be achieved in shot if not in post processing. I'd rather do as little as possible in post processing.
Glad you enjoyed this Simon. I admit I have not spent much time creating Bokeh but you raise some interesting ideas and I just might have to try.
Charlie
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful Patty!
Looks like the Sunriver area. Great video and Thank You. I just purchased two of the Fotodiox diffuser units, they look awesome and quite portable. Another great YT video got me using parchment paper (diffuser) and the roll from Saran wrap as a light funnel for my flash. So much fun.
Oh you are good lol. It's near there along the Deschutes River. The Fotodiox works great for small subjects. Thanks for commenting.
@@ProNaturePhotographr I received the Fotodiox diffusers and they are AWESOME. Great purchase and thanks for making me aware of them. Spent a few hours on water droplets, on flowers, and they are a challenge. Eastern Or high country soon for a MAYBE a few wildflowers to test out your process.
@@runningwithscissors3280 Hey I am so sorry for the long delayed response. You are correct, that little lightbox works great for so many things, usually small subjects. Cant beat the price!
@@ProNaturePhotographr No problem. I love it and use it regularly
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful Paul!
Hi, very nice work, could you please give the name of the mini tripod (with extending legs). Thank you.
Howdy, that adjustable mini tripod is a Targus TG-42TT but it does not look like its made anymore. But this Kodak is almost identical: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1749065-REG/kodak_rocpgtr42_42_travel_compact_tripod.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&smpm=ba_f2_lar&lsft=BI%3A514&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzby1BhCQARIsAJ_0t5OLmpekD-euWqqSyYCQbr2MGCTkyy9wFKLOYwwszWIhl_Ak3XBT3AQaAhzbEALw_wcBBI/7592/KBID/8120
Nicely described.
Thank you and thanks for leaving a comment. Charlie
Excellent video 😊. Superb lecture with great information. Just bought a Metz flash unit and now I have all the information I need to start taking flash photos of flowers and fungi. Thanks very much.
I love to hear that LOL. Good luck creating awesome photos.
Charlie
Professional Nature Photographer Thanks 😊. Moved on a lot since my comment. Now have 3 flash units which operate on my micro 4/3rds system. Metz 64 AF-1 with only cable attachment possible for OFF camera use. A cheap ring LED flash for macro shots - manual mode only but good - and Nissin i60A Flash with wireless Air10s for OFF camera use without the need for cables. If anyone ever needs a wireless flash system for micro 4/3rds then Nissin is one of the few that operates. (Note: The Metz Flash wireless system does not work for micro 4/3rds !!) Just bought extension arm unit to use the Nissin Flash OFF camera but physically attached enabling overhead flash light and extra stability due to solid mounting system. All now ready to go with wildlife shots. Only need some good rain free weather in London ha ha !!
Thanks for very good explained.
thank you!
Very useful. Nice tips.
Thanks Biswajit Mukherjee!
Thank You! I learn more in this video than I did in several put together.
So glad you enjoyed it! :)
Charlie
Was verry helpfull, thank you from the Netherlands.
Thank you for commenting Hans. I am pleased you enjoyed the video.
Great tut, many thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you!! Very helpful!!
Glad it was helpful!
May be late but thank you for this. Very comprehensive and easy to follow... I live in the Caribbean so wildflower season is every day! Going out now.
It's never too late Darrin. Thanks much for commenting!
Charlie
Very nice presentation
Thanks a lot. I am very glad you enjoyed it.
Well done Charlie! That is digging way, waaaaaay back in my memory on all of that!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks a lots for good advice🌺🌺🌺
You are very welcome Tom. Thanks for watching.
Charlie
Magnificent composition at 10:17. Great Job. Thank You for your time.
Thanks you for this useful video :)
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial. Thank you
You are welcome! I am very glad you enjoyed it.
Very good video.
Thank you very much!
Thank you, very informative video.
Thank you Manu. I am pleased you enjoyed he video.
This was an excellent video. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you very much for commenting.
Very useful technique.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Some nice tips! Cool video
Thank you. And love that mini box!
So many useful information in less than twenty minutes! Thank you!
You are very welcome!
When shooter introduced man made lighting into scene keep it natural matching ambient feeling and mood. Tip flash upward so foreground not too bright. A flash meter will take guess work out of workflow plus ratio control on multiple light source
can you call me a cheap flash meter? :)
You are correct 1911geek-
That area on the fringes of any light source is like the falloff zone where the light gets weaker and softer in quality. I use that technique all the time in my photography.
Charlie
Looks like you live in such an awesome place the background is awesome
I do love living in the mountains and the easy access to great nature subjects. Thanks!
This was really helpful, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! :)
Charlie
G'day mate, from one white hair'd bloke to another, nice tutorial. A nice relaxed pace, unlike a lot of the young blokes today that look like they've just got off the crack pipe and are bouncing off the walls...[or trees]...and are screaming into their mic's!!! Well done. Al.
LOL, thanks Alan!
I already know my stuff but watched to see if there was any little thing I might not have considered. I found it very, very good and a big help for those new to photography. I use Canon kit and the YN622C system to control/remote adjust flash power level. I was a little shocked to see you do not use a lens hood. I will have a look at some of your other vids. Keep up the good work.
Hey Brian-
I always use a lens shade and went back and looked and apparently spaced that. Gotta have a shade! LOL
This is full of awesome information,thank you
Glad you enjoyed it Mark!
I use a Wimberly Plamp to stabilize the plant in windy situations, if I can do so without damaging the plant.
Thats a good idea Robert. Thx
Cracking video - thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thx
Great video, thanks a lot. One question: "Shutter speed controls ambient light", shutter speed has also impact to the subject, right?
Glad you enjoyed this vid Bill. Yes, you can look at it as the subject is affected when the ambient light changed with the shutter speed. If you go to a faster shutter speed to darken the ambient light, that will darken the subject at the same time.
Charlie
Would you please recommend any lens for Landscape photos. I am canon user and I am thinking for Canon 10-18mm lens.
The 10-18 is a great lens and I use it on my older 70D. So I can recommend it. My favorite lens is the 16-35mm f/2.8 and I use that on my full-frame sensor camera. It is very high quality but expensive. Good luck!
Many useful information i learned, thanks..
Glad you enjoyed it Vimal.
Great video with pretty good advice, and easy enough to follow.
I just found your You Tube channel. This is exactly what I have been looking for. You have really helped me so much. Thank you. New subscriber here!
I am so glad this video helped you Rose. Thanks for watching and subscribing. More to come!!!
Great video, you do such a wonderful job on all the things you covered I look forward to watching more of your videos
Thanks Mark. Glad you enjoyed it.
Just one question : what rules to apply for the distance between the flash and the subject please ?
Two ways to look at this. If the flash is set to TTL (thru the lens) then when the flash-to-subject distance changes, the flash automatically adjusts the flash output level to compensate for the change in distance. So, moving closer to the subject tells the flash to output less light or moving further away, the flash metering knows to output more light for good flash exposure.
The other option is setting the flash to manual flash output where you have to manually change the output level on the flash when moving closer or further away. This can be more challenging compared to TTL. So you take a test exposure and evaluate it it. Too bright or too dark? If too dark, then increase the flash output level, such as 1/4 power to 1/2 power. Too bright, then lower output level from 1/4 to 1/8th.
Evaluate again and if 1/2 power is perfect then exposure will be good on the subject, but if the subject moves and becomes closer or further away, then retest again.
If you are shooting a moving subject, then TTL is easier and a stationary subject, then Manuel may be better.
That's it! Cheers.
@@ProNaturePhotographr Thank you for this vers clean and détail explanation. Tests to be donc now. 👍
@@AlOne-xg6dv you are welcome.
You might as well just use like f32 and and a 2-3sec shutter. Then use a flashlight to highlight the flowers. Like light painting.
Obviously, there are many ways to photograph any subject and I choose to add light with flash as demonstrated. Painting with light using a flashlight is a completely different technique and a cool one that works on many subjects.
Great tips, I just subscribed so I'm looking forward to checking out the rest of your videos.
Glad to have you Rich. Stay tuned! :)
Outstanding demo but, instead of SWAG, you could use a Sekonic... 😁
Hi Jules- You are absolutely correct , and I have a Sekonic, and I know where it is and its really old and its not in my camera bag. LOL I went to Visual Metering and SWAG a long time ago and surviving it so far. Cheers! 😄
@@ProNaturePhotographr Funny. Cheers!
Hi Charlie,
Rob from Christmas Valley here.
I have a Canon 6d ii and want to use two external flashes with one signal on the hot shoe. What do you recommend for such lights, and does the NPT-04 work with them? I have Canon Speedlite 470 and AD200 by Flashpoint.
Many thanks!
Sorry for the delay Rob. I swear I answered your question but I guess not. The NPT is not model specific and will work with those two flashes you have. They just are not TTL capable.
Charlie
@@ProNaturePhotographr Thank you!
Using a radio controlled Canon 600EXII or Canon 430EXIII would negate the need for a third party radio trigger. Either of these Speedlites may be used on camera instead of the Canon ST-E3_RT to trigger the Speedlite being used to illuminate the flower.
Hey Bruce-
Yes, you are absolutely correct. The 600exrt is an awesome system. I had one 600exrt and rented another when i wrote my ebook: Outdoor Flash Photography and included that in the pdf version. I liked it a lot but found it too expensive to expand the system to 3-4 flashes. Since i already have 4 580 series, and then discovered the cheap triggers, i chose that route and it works great. Thanks for leaving a comment.
Charlie
One question, what brand is your tripod?
Hi Patricia-
It's an Induro and here is the link, which is also pasted below. tinyurl.com/qomr5c2
I really like it!
Charlie
After this I straight away ordered a couple of wireless triggers! A question if you don’t mind: does TTL still work with the light box attached? Doesn’t it block the red rangefinder light?
Robert- TTL will work with a light box attached and if you switch from TTL to External Metering Sensor, that should work as well as long as it the sensor is not blocked by the light box. Charlie
how is your white balance set when using daylight and flash at the same time?
Sorry for the delay in replying to you Jan. I use the daylight WB setting because the flash is daylight colored white balance.
Enjoyed your video and I want to try using the larger softbox but it comes with a speedring to attach to the flash. I looked carefully at this video and noticed you had some kind of other mount. My question is how did you attach the 18x18 softbox to your flash with the speedring?
Hi Copykatnj: That bracket you saw actually has a screw knob at the bottom of the bracket which screws in the speed ring and the the light box is attached to that ring. Here it is: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/197439-REG/Photoflex_AC_B222SM_Adjustable_Shoe_Mount_Connector.html/BI/7592/KBID/8120 and the speed ring: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=PHSRBXSLD&N=0&InitialSearch=yes/BI/7592/KBID/8120
Charlie
@@ProNaturePhotographr Thank you Charlie, I had searched for hours looking for a speedring adapter. Now I can move ahead.
@@CopyKatnj That's great! Photography away! :)
I got some incredible results using 600mm with a cone attachment on my off camera flash.
That's great to hear!
Fabulous video Charlie! Question: what mini tripod did you use?
Judi- the one i demonstrated Targus TH-42TT.
Cool video
Thank you Divi.
Great video! The ambient light for the lupine by the river looked pretty even. Why did you choose to light it from the side vs. front? General thoughts on the position of a flash?
Jason- When you move a light to the side of the subject, you are creating highlights and shadows and that creates shape in the subject. Like a portrait of someone. If the flash is on the cameras hot shoe, it is on the same plane as the lens so the light effect is very flat. All highlight and little shadow as far as shaping the subject with light. But move it to the side of the person and one side will be highlight from the flash and one side will be shadow and this shows shape of the subject. Works the same in nature as well. Charlie
@@ProNaturePhotographr Very well explained! I have been researching into how one can use off-camera flash for macro photography and then I stumbled upon your video in the process. Though I don't shoot flowers as much as I do insects, I think your advice really comes in handy when it comes to better illuminating the subject. Thanks for taking the time and making this video for people like us out there. :)
@@viraj.shinde Thanks Viraj, I appreciate the comment. You are correct, these same techniques can definitely be applied to macro photography with some slight modifications to the flash lighting setup. George Lepp was well known for creating a lighting system exclusively for macrop and todday there are some similar products out there. Good luck! Charlie
Hey there. Question. When shooting Red flowers, I notice that the red can look a little pasty and sometimes purple tends to sneak in. So, how to keep reds from looking pasty and why would the purple sneak in? Thanks in advance.
Devolution-
Good question and i dont have the answer. Sorry.
Charlie
What’s the highest flash power you would use before deciding to increase the ISO and shutter speed? I have read from other photographers articles, using 1/2 or full power is not recommended.
Hi Mike- I use full power on a lot of my subjects without issue, to keep my ISO low. But it depends on the subject and subject-to-flash-distance. I have not heard about avoiding the use of 1/2 or full power so i have no idea why others suggest that. Thanks for the question. Charlie
The Wireless Flash Trigger is for a Nikon, yet you are using the Canon 7D. I have the Canon 7D ii.
Hi Patricia-
Actually the NPT-04 is not brand specific and you can use them on Canon, Nikon, and many more models. And they are really cheap.
Charlie
I'm confused - I've two Canon cameras, one activates a flash when the shutter speed is set to 1/200 of a second, the other at 1/250 of a second, so how does the flash activate when the shutter speed is not either of those?????????????
Wow, sorry, I never got a notification that you posted this question. Different cameras can have different sync speeds in each. You have one at 1/200 and 1/25oth and my Canons are the same. In each case, you cannot use a faster shutter speed than what the camera is capable of syncing with. Like 1/200th on one camera is the limit.
In both cameras, you can use a long shutter speed without issue, like 1/100th or 1 second, but nothing faster than those sync speeds. With today's advanced cameras, when you set a sync speed faster than the designated speed if often automatically reverts to the designated sync speed cuz it knows speeds faster wont work.
If you want to use a faster speed than sync speed, you would use Slow Sync Mode and that comes with most cameras. But there is a challenge there and it can create major technical challenges because of the rapid decrease in flash output level. There are many videos on that topic here if you are interested.
Best wishes, and sorry I missed your message.
Charlie
@@ProNaturePhotographr Thank you, no need to apologize, appreciate your response and clarification.
1/60? why such a slow shutter speed? I use iso 400 and increase the speed. But I go handheld so I am fighting wind and my own movements. But taking all that equipment into the field? Nope. You are better off just doing it in a studio
Photographing in the studio is an option and I have done that, but that look would be different and its a completely different approach. You cant easily replicate grass and twigs and that out of focus background in the studio, that you can get in the field. 'Taking all that equipment into the field' is a personal choice. I get asked to do outdoor portraits from time to time and I take all that equipment because adding light to many subjects makes them look better than simply ramping up ISO.