Instead of relying on HSS (high speed sync) flash, use of ND (neutral density) filters can keep the shutter speed below the maximum flash sync speed. A 3 or 6-stop filter can do the trick.
Thank you very much for the clear, concise explanation of overpowering the the ambient light. I've read about it before, but this is, by far, the easiest to follow tut on the subject that I've seen.
Simple logic well explained. In addition: A simple home made snoot will aim the light more to the subject with even throwing less spill light to the background. Or a cheap snoot with a grid will do the trick. For shots like that , where macro magnification is not that important, I would use my Fuji X100F with the leaf shutter so the max sync speed is no problem anymore. And don't forget, colors on a black background are more profound
Got one too, in fact it was kinda of a cheap set with a box, snoot, some grids, color filters, dome etc. Don't use everything but the snoot with grids and the box are quite handy
@@edverosky hi Ed, i do have a question.I've been blinding myself testing my new flash.I can't seem to figure out the right setting.If we separate the flash from the body, can we just fire the speedlight is that what it's called, and not fire the flash on main body?whenever i fire, they both fire together.im a noob.
@@marlinabasir It all depends on your system. Some cameras have the ability to send a signal with the on-camera flash, to the remote flash, prior to the actual exposure. This can (again, depending on your system and settings) allow the on-camera flash NOT to fire during the actual exposure (or fire with a very low output), while it tells the off-camera one to fire during the exposure. This is something you'll have to experiment with as you consult your manual. I normally use some kind of sync cord, or radio trigger to tell the off-camera flash to fire and bypass the on-camera/built-in flash completely.
@@edverosky i have a 750d but no manual.got it second hand.and a 685 godox flash.i think that's the model.thanks Ed.i got to go try find the canon manual.
Right now I've got a set of Impact (B&H) fluorescent lights. I did at least one video featuring them: ruclips.net/video/6F8D0ivqW64/видео.html but honestly, I'd love to use something else. Like LED lights.
Thank you Ed! Love your tutorials being very informative. I would never use unmodified bare flash. How is about using small soft box like LumiQuest softbox III LQ-119 8" x 9"? I usually use one when shooting something small like products or flowers.
Thanks, Michael. Bare flash can give you a little more contrast for sure, but I like to use a small softbox, too. ruclips.net/video/Vd0hz5wtBbI/видео.html
You probably meant HSS in your question. You're so close with macro that I wouldn't worry so much about the guide number , this one being obtained by your aperture multiplied by the subject distance at given ISO ( IE: f5.6 x subject at 12 ft at 100 ISO = 67.2 ==> GN required = 67 minimum for that picture with these values). Macro is so close that you usually will have to lower the flash power in fractions if on manual, or by flash exposure compensation (FEC) if in TTL-ETTL mode. Close up or extreme macro is sometimes better achieved with either ring flash or dual flash head like the Yongnuo YN-14 EX or YN-24EX , both manual and TTL. Both allow to play with better shadows balance vs standard speedlites, having the ability to adjust flash value for each side of this type of flash separately, and the dual head ones also have adjustable heads orientation. If you have big gun money, get your camera brand equivalent if they provide any (Canon does but comes at an often unjustified quality/price difference ratio). But they'll last longer and should be more consistent on a shot by shot basis. Other consideration for flash/macro flash. If you focus stack in fast sequence with flash (think insect), you might want a side power pack for it. Power pack can also be useful for fast sequence in high speed photography.
Aps-c or full frame? Which of these is more suitable to get good black background images like in this video. Iam on a budget so optimistic i will get similar results in apsc
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Fantastic lecture!
The best tutorial i've ever saw about that theme.
Instead of relying on HSS (high speed sync) flash, use of ND (neutral density) filters can keep the shutter speed below the maximum flash sync speed. A 3 or 6-stop filter can do the trick.
Nice tutorial my friend,enjoy watching
This was phenomenal. You dissected this to the most clearest tutorial I’ve found. Thank you.
Thanks, Adrian!
Great. Thanks for that simple tutorial.
Great simple explanation. Excellent.
A great video and technique for getting the black background, many thanks. Very clear instructions too.
Thank you very much for the clear, concise explanation of overpowering the the ambient light.
I've read about it before, but this is, by far, the easiest to follow tut on the subject that I've seen.
Oh, you're very welcome.
Great video with clear, concise information about this technique. Thank you for the content.
Yes!!!!! Thank you so much!!!! ✨✌🏼
thanks , update this 🙏🏽 i started using x-flash with my EP8 years ag0 for flower photography
Simple logic well explained.
In addition:
A simple home made snoot will aim the light more to the subject with even throwing less spill light to the background.
Or a cheap snoot with a grid will do the trick.
For shots like that , where macro magnification is not that important, I would use my Fuji X100F with the leaf shutter so the max sync speed is no problem anymore.
And don't forget, colors on a black background are more profound
Good tips. I often like to use a mini-softbox for hand-held close-up work. ruclips.net/video/Vd0hz5wtBbI/видео.html
Got one too, in fact it was kinda of a cheap set with a box, snoot, some grids, color filters, dome etc.
Don't use everything but the snoot with grids and the box are quite handy
Great minds...
Thank you very much. The explanation is very clear.
Thank you Ed. You make the science of flash photography easy.
Thanks, Rick. I try. When I first started out, it wasn't easy for me at all. But at least I can share what I've learned!
Simple great No BS tutorial... thanks heaps..
This is the first toturial that I love...
Wait till to see his flash courses. There'll be more...
best explanation
Thanks! You made me get out my flash & synch cord ...
Fun stuff!
thank you excellent vid.
very informative. superb explnation with simple terms
Thank you, Apurv.
Exactly whay i did today except that i mounted my flash.i do like your style of separating the camera and flash.
Thanks, Marlina!
@@edverosky hi Ed, i do have a question.I've been blinding myself testing my new flash.I can't seem to figure out the right setting.If we separate the flash from the body, can we just fire the speedlight is that what it's called, and not fire the flash on main body?whenever i fire, they both fire together.im a noob.
@@marlinabasir It all depends on your system. Some cameras have the ability to send a signal with the on-camera flash, to the remote flash, prior to the actual exposure. This can (again, depending on your system and settings) allow the on-camera flash NOT to fire during the actual exposure (or fire with a very low output), while it tells the off-camera one to fire during the exposure. This is something you'll have to experiment with as you consult your manual. I normally use some kind of sync cord, or radio trigger to tell the off-camera flash to fire and bypass the on-camera/built-in flash completely.
@@edverosky i have a 750d but no manual.got it second hand.and a 685 godox flash.i think that's the model.thanks Ed.i got to go try find the canon manual.
Another excellent video from Ed Verosky with right on examples and clarity in explanations... Great job, thank you...
Thank you! It was well explained! Very helpful as always..
Thanks, Jay-Ar!
thanks for that tutorial, I have to try this
Oh, absolutely. Please keep me updated on what you come up with. Thanks.
Informative, well paced and excellent examples. Thanks Ed!
nice tutorial
Very cool. I’m going to give this a go. Like and saved. 👍🏽
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this!
Very welcome!
Wonderful video thank you!
Thank you, Yarico!
Very informative! Looking forward to more tutorials :)
Thanks. Nice channel, btw.
I am doing the same to get a liquid Blackround ( ultimate black Backround) .... 👍🏼
Good stuff!!! Can't wait to try :)
very useful tutorial! kind of unrelated question, but I was wondering which lights you use for the continuous light?
Right now I've got a set of Impact (B&H) fluorescent lights. I did at least one video featuring them: ruclips.net/video/6F8D0ivqW64/видео.html but honestly, I'd love to use something else. Like LED lights.
Amazing tutorial thank you. I was wondering, is it possible to share how you do the editing to this type of shoot?
I can tell you. For example, the thumbnail image; I just boosted the contrast in Lightroom. That's really it.
Thank you Ed! Love your tutorials being very informative. I would never use unmodified bare flash. How is about using small soft box like LumiQuest softbox III LQ-119 8" x 9"? I usually use one when shooting something small like products or flowers.
Thanks, Michael. Bare flash can give you a little more contrast for sure, but I like to use a small softbox, too. ruclips.net/video/Vd0hz5wtBbI/видео.html
I don't have any experience with flash, so I have a one question - setting in flash need to be the same, like in camera, or not?
THANK you, Ed. I have done it in the past but with a lot of trial and error. Now, I should be able to do it more systematically. Thanks!
Awesome!
Speaker exposure light through his electronic eye. Light meter sir measure it empiracle measurements
Thanks!!!
That is so cool
Thanks for the helpful tips tutorial. What maximum Guide Number would a hhs flash need for macro photography?
You probably meant HSS in your question. You're so close with macro that I wouldn't worry so much about the guide number , this one being obtained by your aperture multiplied by the subject distance at given ISO ( IE: f5.6 x subject at 12 ft at 100 ISO = 67.2 ==> GN required = 67 minimum for that picture with these values). Macro is so close that you usually will have to lower the flash power in fractions if on manual, or by flash exposure compensation (FEC) if in TTL-ETTL mode. Close up or extreme macro is sometimes better achieved with either ring flash or dual flash head like the Yongnuo YN-14 EX or YN-24EX , both manual and TTL. Both allow to play with better shadows balance vs standard speedlites, having the ability to adjust flash value for each side of this type of flash separately, and the dual head ones also have adjustable heads orientation. If you have big gun money, get your camera brand equivalent if they provide any (Canon does but comes at an often unjustified quality/price difference ratio). But they'll last longer and should be more consistent on a shot by shot basis. Other consideration for flash/macro flash. If you focus stack in fast sequence with flash (think insect), you might want a side power pack for it. Power pack can also be useful for fast sequence in high speed photography.
Great video nice
Thank you sooooooo much Ed! Helped alot
Hey, thank YOU! I'm happy when any little tip I offer can help.
Amazing! Thank you
Thank you!
Aps-c or full frame? Which of these is more suitable to get good black background images like in this video. Iam on a budget so optimistic i will get similar results in apsc
Any size sensor is fine.
Tanglewood!
Yes!!
Thanks Ed! ☺
👍
Why dont use yongnuo trigger?
he wanted use ttl for the last shot. the RF 603 dosent work with ttl just with manual
Sun: "nothing can overpower me"
Flash: *hold my beer*
THAT's pretty good!
simple, FP sync
show
👍👍👍👍👍👍🌺👈
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you!
Great video nice
Very informative. Thank you.